Iceland. Cairns - sometimes they are signposts, sometimes they contain messages from adventurous expeditions. Mostly they are just standing somewhere in the landscape. But the stone men of Laufskálavarða in the south of Iceland are different. Because they bring luck for the further journey. Read here what the lucky charms are all about.
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Cairns on Iceland - loved or unwanted?
Cairns are very popular with hikers. They are often erected for pleasure, around picnic areas or wherever else. Where there is one, others quickly join them. But cairns have a deeper meaning: they are signposts. And according to the motto "Many cooks spoil the broth", too many cairns can also spoil a hiker's path and lead him on the wrong track.
There is also another factor to consider when building a cairn. Because under every stone there are animals and mosses or lichens may grow on the stones. So it is not surprising that Iceland in particular is at war with the cairns. The vegetation is simply too sensitive and quickly something is destroyed that takes decades to grow back. Besides, everything has its place in nature, the elves and trolls observe all changes very closely. Therefore, cairns are often quickly destroyed by Icelanders before others join them. Less human traces in nature - I think that's great!
Conclusion: Do not build cairns in Iceland!
Laufskálavarða - the Collection of Cairns
But there is a place where stone men are welcome. The place is called Laufskálavarða and is located in the south of Iceland about halfway between Vík í Mýrdal and Kirkjubæjarklaustur. I discovered the place rather by chance, because it was a nice resting place for my second breakfast. Laufskálavarða is a lava hill in the middle of the flat plain of Mýrdalssandur. Where today the hill with the cairns is, there used to be the prosperous farm Laufskógar.
The Laufskógar Farm and Katla Volcano
Here on the edge of the Mýrdalssandur once stood a farm called Laufskógar. It was built by the early settlers and grew into a large estate with "24 doors". But north of Laufskógar the volcano Katla was slumbering under the ice cap of Mýrdalsjökull. The farm was destroyed in 894 in the first historically documented eruption of the Katla. Instead of the Laufskógar farm there is now the lava hill Laufskálavarða with bizarrely shaped lava rocks.
Even today the Katla is still one of the most active volcanoes in Iceland. It has erupted about twice per century during the last 1,000 years. The last time was in 1918 when a huge eruption and glacier flood occurred. So an eruption is long overdue.
The Cairns of Laufskálavarða as a good Luck Charm for the Journey
After the Laufskógar manor was destroyed by the eruption of the Katla, a ritual developed in its place: each traveller who passed by here for the first time was to build a cairn. With this he secured his luck for his further journey. Some of the cairns here are therefore already quite old.
The tradition still exists today. It is said that the road construction office even supports the tradition and provides stones. But I had to search quite hard until I found some spare stones for my mini cairn. But still, the little pile gave me a lot of luck for the journey and above all fantastic weather! Am I superstitious now?
Book Recommendations for Iceland
Do you want to know where the journey is going? Then I can recommend this travel guides* to you.
You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. This does not make the product more expensive for you.
Do you know Laufskálavarða in Iceland and have you perhaps already built a cairn here? Has your lucky charm worked? Do you have any questions or suggestions regarding my article? If so, please write me a comment!
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Recommendations for further Reading
Do you love the Scandinavian countries as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about the Kayak Tour in the Swedish Archipelago or a Trekking Tour to the Greenlandic Ice Sheet.
