Scotland. The North Coast 500 runs about 500 miles through the breathtaking Highlands in the north of Scotland. Narrow single track roads wind their way through postcard motifs and seduce you to detours, to stop and contemplate. Looking for a destination for next summer? Here you can find out everything about the route and I will show you my favourite places. In addition you will get many practical tips for your road trip, camping and driving on the typical single track roads.
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Roadtrip North Coast 500 in Scotland - the Route
Highlights of the North Coast 500 in Scotland
East Coast - Inverness to John O'Groats
North Coast - John O'Groats to Durness
West Coast - Durness to the Applecross Peninsula
Inland - Applecross Peninsula to Inverness
Before getting started - Planning the Road Trip
Driving in Scotland - Left-hand Traffic
Dos and Don'ts on the Single Track Roads
Little Pests: Scotland Midges and Ticks
Roadtrip North Coast 500 in Scotland - the Route
The North Coast 500 (NC 500) is a circuit around the northern tip of Scotland. The entire route is 807 kilometers (502 miles) long and consists largely of single track roads. You will find these mainly on the west coast, where the landscape is particularly impressive. The map below gives you a first overview. I have marked interesting places with a red dot. There is also a photo for each point, so that you know immediately what to expect there.
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The route of the North Coast 500 starts in Inverness, the metropolis of the Scottish Highlands. From here it continues over the Dornoch Firth in a north-easterly direction to John O'Groats. Here you can see the Orkney Islands for the first time. Then the route turns to the west and soon the northernmost point of the British main island at Dunnet Head is reached. Then follows a beautiful drive along the coast with several white sandy beaches like in a picture book. The stately waves turn some of the beaches into surf hotspots, for example around Thurso.
The route that now follows from Durness to Ullapool is the most spectacular section of the NC500, because here are the legendary Highlands, white beaches and bizarre rocky coasts as you know them from advertising brochures. The Assynt region near Ullapool combines the best that the Highlands have to offer. The high mountains like the Suilven invite you to challenging hikes. The fishing location Ullapool is the base for many outdoor sportsmen and also the only larger city on the northwest coast.
The tour continues into the Wester Ross region, from where there are views of the Isle of Skye. In the coastal town of Gairloch, boat trips promise good chances to observe whales, dolphins or basking sharks. But the icing on the cake of the NC 500 is the breathtaking Bealach Na Ba Pass on the Applecross Peninsula. In hairpin bends, the single track road winds steeply up to 626 meters and just as steeply down again. From here the way back to Inverness begins.
Tip: Do you have a little more time? Then a side trip to the Orkneysis worthwhile. The islands are littered with prehistoric relics and ruins from both world wars. There are also great hiking possibilities along the coast and white sandy beaches invite you to dream. With the car ferries from Thurso or Gils you reach the islands after about one hour. You should plan at least two to three days for the Orkneys.
Highlights of the North Coast 500 in Scotland
Along the North Coast 500 there is something to discover every few kilometers. Both those interested in history and outdoor enthusiasts get their money's worth. And besides the actual sights, there are rainbows, highland cattle and sheep, which give the road trip its special character. And with a lot of luck, you can even see the See Northern Lights .
Not to be missed:
- Noss Head with the Ruins of Sinclair Girnigoe Castle
- Duncansby Head Sea Stacks and Cave
- Dunnet Head – Northernmost Point of the British Main Island
- Melvich Beach - golden Sand and Surfers Dream
- Strathy Point Lighthouse
- Smoo Cave
- Balnakeil Beach and cemetery with Church Ruin
- Lighthouse of Stoer and Hike to the "Old Man of Stoer"
- Bealach Na Ba Pass - the highest Road Rise in Britain
- Jumping Salmon at the Rogie Falls
We drove the North Coast 500 in September 2020. The time was overshadowed by Covid-19,because many tour operators were closed for the whole season or had limited their offers. We also skipped visits to castles or distilleries along the NC500. So in my article you will find guided tours, indoor visits and also sights we missed otherwise only as "more ideas" .
East Coast - Inverness to John O'Groats
Inverness - Start and End of the North Coast 500 Road Trip
Our road trip North Coast 500 begins and ends in Inverness. The northernmost city in Great Britain is not only the gateway to the north, but also the cultural center of the Highlands. There are several places of interest, for example the Highland Museum, the Cathedral, Old High St. Stephen's Church and the Victorian Market. The Inverness Castle towers above the city on a cliff overlooking the Ness River. The architect William Burn built the castle of red sandstone in 1836 on the site of an 11th century fortress.
Stone Towers from the Iron Age - Broch Cairn Liath
In the Iron Age, i.e. between 200 B.C. and 200 A.D., hundreds of so-called Brochs were built in northern Scotland. The Brochs are round, windowless towers made of dry masonry. Typical Brochs have a diameter of 10 to 15 m and are up to 15 m high. It is assumed that the towers were residences of the landowning population. Presumably they were built by wealthy families for reasons of prestige. They are mostly located in strategic places, such as hills, peninsulas or islands. Some Brochs are located along the route of the North Coast 500, for example Cairn Liath, Nybster or Clachtoll.
Whaligoe Steps - 365 Steps to the Port
Are you free from vertigo? About 365 steps lead down to a small sheltered harbour. However, the descent is a bit adventurous. Because there is no railing and the steps are partly in bad condition. But you have a great view of the cliffs and can even watch breeding seabirds. Perfect to stretch your legs a little after some kilometers of road.
Noss Head with the Ruins of Sinclair Girnigoe Castle
At the headland of Noss Head is the most beautiful ruin on the east coast. Located directly on the cliffs, the ruins seem to merge with the cliffs and sea stacks. But the walls are actually two castles that were built here at Sinclair's Bay. First there was Girnigoe Castle, completed in the 15th century. Whereby the name Castle is a bit exaggerated. Because it was actually only a tower house. Until the 17th century, various extensions were built - these were then called Sinclair Castle. It is said that secret passages lead into rock caves - unfortunately they are no longer accessible. In 1690 the castles were finally besieged, destroyed and not repaired.
Duncansby Head - spectacular Sea Stacks and Cave
The lighthouse at Duncansby Head marks the northeasternmost point of the British main island. Countless seabirds breed on spectacular cliffs - puffins, fulmars, kittiwakes, gulls, razorbills and black guillemots. From a hiking trail you have a breathtaking view of the 60 meter high cliffs, bizarre sea stacks and a sea cave. But even more exciting is climbing down into the bay.This is possible at the lowest point of the cliffs, a rope will help you climb down. Also for the seals our visit at the beach seemed to be very exciting. During our walk in the bay we were observed by three seals the whole time.
John O’Groats – “Land’s End” im Norden
The town of John O'Groats with its 300 inhabitants is often referred to as the northernmost point of the British main island. But it is by no means. Dunnet Head lies two kilometers further north. But if you look for the greatest distance between two places on the main island, you will find it between John O'Groats in the north and Lizard Point in the south. These 1,406 kilometers are popular with road trippers, cyclists and dedicated hikers. And those who have traveled across the country like to pose at the signpost at John O'Groats harbor for a photo.
Tip: John O'Groats Ferries offers day trips on the Orkneys and Wildlife Cruises. .
North Coast - John O'Groats to Durness
Castle of Mey - Summer Residence of the Queen Mother
The 16th century castle was the summer residence of the Queen Mother. She bought it in 1952 in a rather dilapidated condition and has spent her summer vacations here every August since. Prince Charles still comes here every July. Around the palace there are also extensive gardens that invite you to take a stroll.
Dunnet Head - Northernmost Point of the British Main Island
At Dunnet Head the wind blows around one' s ears. The northernmost point of the British main island is always windy. But it also offers spectacular views of the rocky coast and the Orkney Islands. The view is especially beautiful at sunset. Besides the lighthouse. there are also some ruins of a military site on Dunnet Head.
Tip: The road to Dunnet Head offers many great places for tents and campers. Don't be late, otherwise the most beautiful places will be occupied.
Surfer Hotspot Thurso
The waves in Thurso are among the highest in Europe. Well, when we were there, the waves were not quite as high. Nevertheless there were some surfers on the water. In Thurso itself there is a beach right in town. More beautiful are the beaches outside, for example at Dunnet Bay with several high dunes.
Melvich Beach - golden Sand and Surfers Dream
Melvich Beach is one of the most beautiful sandy beaches on the north coast. It is especially impressive at low tide. Then the golden beach is even a bit wider.
The beach is located directly at the route of the North Coast 500. A signposted gravel road branches off to the corresponding parking lot. A short path leads you from the parking lot through the dunes to the beach. From the parking lot you can also see a distinctive mansion on the other side of the Halladale River - the Bighouse Lodge. The house was built in 1765 and was the seat of the head of Clan Mackay.
By the way, Melvich is one of the best surf spots in the area.
Strathy Point Lighthouse
Strathy Point Lighthouse is the most photogenic lighthouse along the North Coast 500, perhaps even in all of Scotland. The best perspective? You'll find it in front of the lighthouse, seawards. Here the rough cliffs reach far out into the sea and you can take pictures of the lighthouse with the rocks in the foreground. Keep right of the lighthouse and follow the narrow path to the right headland. Then climb out on the rocks until you have found your photo perspective. And of course only as far as you feel safe.
The lighthouse at Strathy Point was the first in Scotland to be built specifically for electric operation. Completed in 1958, the tower was finally fully automated in 1997 and is now remotely controlled from Edinburgh.
Viewpoint on the Dam at Tongue
The bay "Kyle of Tongue" is crossed by a long dam. During low tide, wide sandy beaches appear in the bay. From the viewpoint on the dam you have a fantastic sight over the bay to the mountains.
Smoo Cave - Waterfall in the Cave
The sea cave Smoo Cave impresses with a huge chamber at the entrance and a waterfall inside. Smoo Cave Tours also offers geological excursions from April to October. This will take you further into the cave, partially even with an rubber dinghy. Unfortunately the tours did not take place in September 2020 because of Covid-19, so our visit ended at the waterfall chamber.
The cave is well signposted. The parking lot is directly at the North Coast 500, from where stairs lead down to the cave in a short loop.
Balnakeil - Hot Chocolate, Beach Walk and Church Ruin
The Craft Village Balnakeil was once a war warning center. Today it is a hippie village with arts and crafts, galleries and hot chocolate. From 9am you can enjoy your (second) breakfast at Cocoa Mountain . There is hot chocolate, coffee, chocolates and sweet pastries. Afterwards a walk on the wide sandy beach of Balnakeilis worthwhile. For fans of ruins I can also recommend the cemetery with a church ruin directly at the beach parking lot.
West Coast - Durness to the Applecross Peninsula
Worthwhile Detour to Kinlochbervie
Kinlochbervie is known for its port and fish market. But a detour is worthwhile especially in good weather because of the scenic route with great views. You want to hike to the beautiful beach Sandwood Bay? Then the road to Kinlochbervie brings you almost to the starting point of your hike.
Kylesku Bridge
Until 1984 the continuation of the journey on the North Coast 500 was only possible with a ferry. But in August 1984 Queen Elizabeth II. finally opened the Kylesku Bridge, which is worth seeing. The 277 meter long and 24 meter high box girder bridge spans the Lochs Glencoul and Glendhu in an arch. From the viewpoint in front of the bridge you have a great panoramic view of the Kylesku Bridge.
Lighthouse of Stoer and Hike to the "Old Man of Stoer"
A small side road between Stoer and Clashnessie leads to the coast to the lighthouse of Stoer. Here is the starting point for an easy coastal walk to the "Old Man of Stoer". The Old Man is an about 60 meters high sea needle. I think it is the most beautiful of all I have seen. There and back it is about six kilometers walking.
Near the lighthouse it is also good for camping. A small fee is either collected in the evening or thrown into a mailbox.
On the way back from the lighthouse to the route of the NC500 I recommend a stopover at the Choc-O-Latté. Here you can spoil yourself with coffee, chocolate and delicious fresh cakes. Chickens run around freely between the tables and speculate on cake crumbs. They are just too funny.
Ardvreck Castle
What would Scotland be without its legends and spirits?The ruins of Ardweck Castle are also the subject of a scary story: The builder of the castle has promised his own daughter to the devilas a bride. In return, the devil would support him in the construction. When the time came and the devil was about to take the daughter, she threw herself off the top of the tower. Since then her spirit is said to appear in the castle.
Today not much is left of the former castle. But the remains of its walls still stand photogenic on the shore of Loch Assynt on a small peninsula. Depending on the water level this becomes an island. The castle was built in 1490 as a simple castle tower. Only about a century later the castle was extended. Right next to it there is another ruin: Calda House. It is not quite as old. The owners of the castle built it in 1726 as a modern manor house. Living in the castle was not comfortable enough for them.
Ullapool Museum
The British master builder Thomas Telford is known for the Caledonian Channel, which connects the east and west coast of Scotland. But Telford has also built churches, including the church in Ullapool. The Ullapool Museum has moved into the church building from 1829. Remains of the church furnishings are still preserved inside.
The museum informs about the history of the fishing village Ullapool. It is also the place to go for ancestry research. geht.
Corrieshalloch Gorge
Corrieshalloch Gorge is a gorge lined with tall trees. It is about 1.5 kilometers long, up to 60 meters deep and about 10 meters wide. A short walk through the forest brings you to a Victorian suspension bridge.As soon as you walk over it, it begins to swing. This creates a thrill, because directly under the bridge the waterfall Falls of Measach falls 45 meters into the depth. On the opposite side of the gorge the path then leads to another viewpoint. From here you have a beautiful view of the suspension bridge. Back on the other side of the gorge, the 2.1 kilometer long circular trail finally takes you back to the parking lot.
Corrieshalloch Gorge is a national nature reserve. A small fee is charged for access, payable at the ticket machine in the parking lot.
Beinn Eighe Nature Reserve
The Beinn Eighe Nature Reserve was established in 1951 and is the oldest reserve in Scotland. Here you can still see Caledonian pines, which once covered the whole country. The reserve is also home to martens, wild cats and eagles. Maybe you are lucky and see one or the other forest creature on your hike. At the Visitor Center near Kinlochewe you can get information about the park and the hiking trails. The possibilities range from a leisurely walk to challenging summit tours.
Delicious! Restaurant in the Walled Garden
Set in a 17th century garden surrounded by a stone wall is the award-winning Potting Shed Cafe & Restaurant. The former tearoom advertises with local ingredients and tasty dishes: the ingredients come from the 1.25 acre garden, from happy pigs and lambs and from the sea outside the front door. The fish is caught with the house-owned fishing boat. For breakfast, the menu includes classic Scottish breakfast, cakes or scones. After the meal, it is also worth taking a walk through the garden with its raised beds, herbaceous borders and flowers blooming in all colors.
On the website you can find the current opening hours.
Bealach Na Ba Pass - the highest Road Rise in Britain
For the winding drive over the Bealach Na Ba Pass you need good nerves. In hairpin bends, the Single Track Road winds its way up to 626 meters and down again just as steeply. It is the biggest road climb in all of Britain. The views are terrific! Practically there is also a big parking lot at the top of the pass. When clouds cover the view, wait a little bit - maybe it will clear up in 5 minutes.
Large vehicles as well as beginner drivers can choose a different route.
Tip: Do you have a rental car with automatic transmission? Then find out how to manually shift to a lower gear before you start you drive the pass. You will definitely need the engine brake .
More Ideas
- Walk to Sandwood Bay, the most beautiful beach in Scotland
- Trip to the wildlife reserve Handa Island
- Kayak tour to the Summer Isles near Ullapool
- Wildlife-Watching in Gairloch or Ullapool
- Hiking in Assynt, for example the Suilven
Inland - Applecross Peninsula to Inverness
Jumping Salmon at the Rogie Falls
Salmon that migrate up rivers and jump up waterfalls I only knew from television. Mostly rivers in Alaska are shown. But also in Scotland you can watch this spectacle in August and September. Ok, they are only single fish, but still. A fish ladder next to the main arm makes it a bit easier for the salmon. A short way leads you from the parking lot directly to the suspension bridge over the waterfall. The waterfall alone is worth a stopover.
Before getting started - Planning the Road Trip
Planning of the North Coast 500 Trip in Scotland
Along the Northwest Coast 500 there is a lot to discover, there is something for everyone: prehistoric ruins, castles, museums, beaches and hiking trails. There are also opportunities for wildlife tours by boat, multi-day kayak trips or a detour to the Isle of Skye, the Orkneys or even Shetland. Pick out your raisins and leave everything else out - otherwise it will quickly become too much.
How much time should one plan for the NC500?
We drove the route in 8 days. In the beginning the stages were longer, then they became shorter and shorter because there was simply more to see on the west coast and the roads only allowed slower progress.
Don't underestimate the driving times when planning your trip - you definitely need longer than the navigation system tells you. On the one hand, because you often have photo stops. And on the other hand, because the twisty single track roads or the camper van in front of you will quickly reduce the speed to 30 miles per hour.
Refuelling
Along the route of the North Coast 500 there are often small gas stations even in the small towns. Most of the time there is no cash point and you pay with your credit card directly at the automat. An overview of the location of the petrol stations in Scotland can be found here.
How do you want to overnight?
With a camper or car and tent you are flexible and you can stay where you want. Well, almost. You can read more about camping in Scotland by clicking here. If you want to stay in accommodation, it is better to book in advanceduring the season. Especially in the northwest between Thurso and Ullapool it can get difficult.
Driving in Scotland - Left-hand Traffic
Driving on the wrong side of the road sounds daunting at first. But I thought to myself, if my partner and I take turns driving and both are paying attention, it will work out fine. The surprise came before things really got going. The rental car provider did not accept my partner's driver's license (in the USA, driver's licenses have to be renewed every 5 years. Because of Covid-19 it all took longer. The temporary paper driver's license was not sufficient). So I suddenly became the Car Queen and had exclusive control over the steering wheel for 4 weeks - and could stop as often and where I wanted for a photo. Yeah!!!
What is it like to drive on the wrong side of the road? Actually not that difficult at all, I got used to it quickly. There are often other cars in front of you - then you just follow them. That also works in round-about traffic. You just have to be a bit careful that you look to the right. At the beginning I was very worried that I would swerve to the wrong side on one of the single track roads and collide head-on with another car. Fortunately that didn't happen, not even in the least. With oncoming traffic one gets much slower on the narrow single track roads anyway and observes the behaviour of the other car very closely.
Dos and Don'ts on the Single Track Roads
Use the passing points. They are typical for single track roads. Mostly they are signposted and can be seen from far away. Let oncoming traffic and vehicles behind you pass. I have seen some scary overtaking maneuvers on the track, because some drivers behave like a... and have blocked the roads permanently.
Stop only at clearly visible places. Stop briefly for a photo? Absolutely. But not everywhere. Make sure that you are seen on the winding, hilly road and that other vehicles are not in danger when passing by. Also, keep the passing points clear.
Better not go too fast. Adjust your speed so that you can drive safely. Especially on the single track roads and before the "Blind Summits". The speed limit is usually 60 miles / hour. However, you will often drive slower.
Watch out for motorcyclists. Especially on weekends there are many motorcyclists on the road. Mostly in larger groups. Often they ride the winding roads a little faster and like to overtake, sometimes quite wildly. Also watch out for latecomers.
Cyclists - the heroes of the NC500. Uphill, in wind and rain - hats off to the real heroes of the North Coast 500. Leave enough space when passing by and use the passing places.
Sheep, cows and other animals. They are omnipresent and can be around every corner.
Tip: Even if it's a bit more expensive, I recommend a rental car with automatic transmission.On the twisty single track roads with numerous dodges the automatic transmission was simply priceless. Especially since I can hardly imagine how to operate the shift lever with my left hand.
Little Pests: Scotland Midges and Ticks
When it comes to Scotland, everyone talks about midges. Admittedly, the morning midge attacks outside our tent were already cruel. But the ticks in the Scottish Highlands scared me even more! Because they are much bigger than the ticks I knew from Germany before. In addition, signs along some hiking trails warn against the transmission of boleriosis.
In my separate article you can read more about Midges - When? Where? In which weather? What helps?
Do not forget:
- Midge Repellent, for example Smidge
- Mosquito net for the head
- Tick forceps
Book Recommendations for Scotland
You want to know where the journey goes? Then I recommend the following travel guides, which have proven themselves on my trip:
Have you ever driven the North Coast 500 in Scotland yourself? What were the highlights and the most beautiful places for you? Or do you still have questions about my article? If so, please write me a comment!
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Recommendations for further Reading
Not only Scotland's roads are famous for great road trips. Iceland and the Baltic States also offer great routes. Maybe you feel like a road trip in Iceland's highlands or a road trip around half the Baltic Sea?
Schöne Bilder und eine schöne Tour, da kann man fast Neidisch werden.
Vielen Dank! Ja, die Tour kann ich wirklich wärmstens empfehlen 🙂
Klasse Bericht und Informationen über eure Tour in Schottland. Wir wollen die Tour im nächsten Jahr im Mai machen. Wir wissen nur noch nicht wie lange man z.b. für John O Groats braucht um alle Sehenswürdigkeiten zu sehen ob man eine Nacht auf dem Campingplatz dranhängen soll!? Wie ist eure Meinung dazu?
Danke für euren tollen Blog!
Liebe Grüße
Andreas und Tatjana 🙏 🌳 🌞
Hallo Andreas, hej, freut mich, dass dir mein Bericht über den NC 500 gefällt! Ist wirklich eine tolle Tour. Dort oben in John O Goats gibt es gar nicht so viel zu sehen. Wir waren nur kurz dort und sind gleich weiter auf die Orkneys (auch sehr empfehlenswert). Ich glaube, man kann dort oben Bootstouren und Whalewatching buchen. Das haben wir aber nicht gemacht, daher kann ich dir nicht mehr dazu sagen.
Ich wünsche euch eine tolle Tour!
Viele Grüße, Mareike