Norway. Most people travel to Nordkapp to take selfies of themselves and the polar sphere. I went to Nordkapp to photograph birds. A boat tour takes me to the bird cliff Gjesværstappan, a birdwatching paradise. More than a million puffins and thousands of other seabirds live here. Several sea eagles have also taken a liking to the land of milk and honey on the Arctic rocky islands.
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Birdwatching by Boat to Gjesværstappan
The boat tour to the bird cliffs starts in the small fishing village of Gjesvær, about 15 kilometers west of Nordkapp. The Birdsafari team sails to the Gjesværstappan bird cliffs three times a day in summer. They know the waters and know exactly where the nesting sites of the various seabird species are. The professionals also know that it can get cold on the boat during the two-hour tour in the winds of the Barents Sea. Therefore, every guest can borrow a warm overall.
A Sea of Puffins
After just a few minutes drive, we spot the first puffins on the water. Soon there are more and more and at some point the entire surface of the water is covered with puffins and other seabirds right up to the horizon. They fly up as soon as our boat gets too close. I look after the birds, up into the sky. Countless birds are circling around the rocks, almost as many as there are swimming on the sea. I don't even know where to look first... maybe at the sea eagle flying through the picture?
Gjesværstappan on the North Cape is one of Norway's largest Bird Cliffs
Gjesværstappan is home to one of Norway's largest seabird colonies with millions of birds from over 20 different species. The archipelago offers some of the best birdwatching opportunities in the far north. The number of breeding birds is impressive. This is partly due to the good feeding grounds that the sea provides here. Warm and cold ocean currents meet here in the Barents Sea, so the sea is rich in nutrients.
Gjesværstappan is an archipelago in the Norwegian province of Troms og Finnmark, northwest of the small fishing village of Gjesvær on the island of Magerøya near Nordkapp. The archipelago consists of three main islands that rise high and steeply out of the sea: Storstappen (283 m), Kjerkestappen (166 m) and Bukkstappen (92 m). In addition to the main islands, smaller rocks are jutting out of the water that are also used as nesting sites. Most birds nest on Storstappen, the largest of the three islands. In addition to countless birds, there are also traces of human settlement on the islands dating back thousands of years. There was once even a church on Kjerkestappen.
The islands are an ornithological jewel and an important breeding ground for numerous seabirds. The fish-rich waters of the Barents Sea offer the best conditions for seabirds. In the summer months, when the midnight sun lights up the horizon, the islands are a hive of activity. The steep cliffs and secluded islands provide an ideal habitat that is largely protected from humans and predators. Unless the predator comes from the air, such as sea eagles or skuas.
The Seabirds on Gjesværstappan
Due to the remote location and the low level of human disturbance, countless species of seabirds have been able to settle here. In addition to the puffins, we soon see guillemots, black guillemots, razorbills, cormorants, shags, gannets, and several sea eagles. In between, we repeatedly spot kittiwakes, great black-backed gulls, and herring gulls. If you are lucky, you may also spot fulmars, little auks, or skuas, which often hunt smaller seabirds or steal their food.
The main bird species on Gjesværstappan are
- Puffins
- Northern gannets
- Common guillemots
- Razorbill
- Black Guillemots
- Black-legged kittiwakes
- Common Sandpiper
- Cormorant
- Shag
- Great Black-backed Gull
- Herring Gull
- White-tailed eagle
- Fulmars
- Little auks
- Skuas
- Great Skuas
- Storm Petrel
Puffins - the Clowns of the Sea
The “clowns of the sea” are the stars of the island. The puffins have their colonies on the islands of Storstappen and Kirkstappan. They nest in burrows that they dig into the ground. The colony has more than one million animals, including young and non-breeding puffins. This makes it one of the largest puffin colonies in Europe.
Northern gannets
The elegant northern gannets with their distinctive yellowish-white heads attract attention with their acrobatic flying maneuvers and steep dives. Gannets were first sighted on Gjesværstappan in the 1980s. Since then, one of Norway's largest gannet colonies has developed here. Today, around 1200 pairs build their nests on the Staurspira promontory. The large, elegant birds also use the remains of fishing nets, which they fish out of the water. On closer inspection of the pictures, I could not only see fluffy chicks, but also that the nets have become the doom of one or two animals.
Common guillemots
The guillemot is represented by up to 650 breeding pairs. The thick-billed guillemot also used to nest here. However, the population has not survived here. The pressure from the sea eagles may have been too high.
Razorbill
The razorbill nests are hidden between rock crevices and are more difficult to see. The population is estimated at 2500 pairs.
Common Sandpiper
The sandpiper nests on Gjesværstappan in the fall and winter. Normally, sandpipers breed like all other birds. In spring and summer. However, to avoid gulls and other predatory birds, the little sandpiper is nocturnal and only flies to its nest at night. Due to the constant light of the midnight sun in the Arctic, it would have no chance of successfully raising its young. Only from September, when it gets dark again at night, does the white-tailed eagle begin to breed.
White-tailed eagle
During the breeding season, the cliffs must be a haven for birds of prey. As a result, numerous white-tailed eagles live around Gjesværstappan. Sometimes up to 30 eagles can be seen in the air at the same time. Most of them are non-breeding juveniles, which can be easily recognized by their plumage.
King Penguins in Norway?
There is a curious historical anecdote about the islands. In the 1936s, king penguins from South America were released on the bird cliffs of Gjesværstappan - an ambitious but ultimately unsuccessful experiment. The idea was to establish a colony of these majestic birds in the region, which could then be used as an additional source of food. However, the animals disappeared after just one week. They were probably simply caught and eaten. Today, there are only a few historical records and stories of this episode.
Protective Measures for the Seabirds
Due to its importance as a nesting area, Gjesværstappan has been designated as a nature reserve since 1983 and is also protected as an Important Bird Area. The protected area covers an area of 7.1 square kilometers, of which around 1.7 square kilometers is land. The islands can be visited by excursion boats. However, it is not permitted to enter the islands between June 15 and August 15.
The Gjesværstappan nature reserve is managed by the Norwegian Directorate for Nature Conservation and the local municipality. In addition to monitoring the bird population, the nature conservation efforts focus on controlling invasive species. Through sustainable birdwatching tourism and scientific monitoring, the aim is to ensure that Gjesværstappan remains a safe place for countless seabirds in the future.
Getting there and Birdwatching Boat Tours to Gjesværstappan
The best starting point for exploring Gjesværstappan is the village of Gjesvær, about 35 kilometers west of the North Cape. The easiest way to get there is to drive from Honningsvåg, the nearest town with a small airport with flights from Oslo and Tromsø and a harbor where the Hurtigruten dock. A scenic road leads from Honningsvåg to Gjesvær. The Hurtigruten offers organized bus tours to the islands.
Most guided boat tours depart from the harbor in Gjesvær and take about 1.5 to 2 hours. During the tour, the boat brings visitors close enough to the cliffs to observe the birds without disturbing the sensitive breeding colonies. Some providers offer tours specifically geared towards photography, with longer stops at the best observation points.
The best time for birdwatching at Gjesværstappan is from May to August, when the breeding season is in full swing and the birds are particularly active on the islands.
Conclusion: a Paradise for Birdwatchers
Gjesværstappan is a true birdwatching paradise for bird lovers and photographers. The variety of seabirds, the breathtaking landscape, and the opportunity to observe rare species at close range make a visit an unforgettable experience. Thanks to strict conservation measures, this natural jewel will hopefully be preserved so that future generations can also experience the impressive birdlife of these islands.
Other Sights and Activities in the Region
North Cape: A trip to the North Cape is almost obligatory if you are already in the region. It is the northernmost point of mainland Europe and offers impressive panoramas and a visitor center.
Experience Sami culture: The Finnmark region is home to the Sami, Norway's indigenous people. Visitors can learn more about Sami culture and traditions here, e.g. in Honningsvåg or through Sami craft stores and museums.
Midnight sun: From the end of May to the end of July, the sun never sets in this region. The “white nights” offer a unique nature experience and allow bird watching in exceptional light conditions.
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Recommendations for further Reading
Do you love the north as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about my Husky Guide Training – Two Months with Hetta Huskies in Finland or about Trekking on the Laugavegur in Iceland.
