Norway. Massive bodies, shaggy fur, and a hint of the Ice Age. If you enter Dovrefjell in March, you are not only embarking on a journey through snow and cold, but also through time. Because here, in central Norway, musk oxen defy the Arctic winter - they are relics of a bygone world and are among the last representatives of an animal world from the Ice Age. They were already extinct in continental Europe, but were successfully reintroduced to Dovrefjell in the 1930s. Today, around 200 musk oxen live in Dovrefjell. Observing them requires perseverance, patience, and caution. A good way to do this is on a guided tour of Moskusstien, which I report on here.
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On the Moskusstien to the Musk Oxen in Dovrefjell
Our small group consists of three nature photographers and an experienced guide. Equipped with snowshoes and our camera backpacks, we set off in the morning from Kongsvoll, a tiny village on the edge of the Dovrefjell-Sunndalsfjella National Park. Our destination: a herd of musk oxen that have been spotted on the barren plateaus around the promising Moskusstien.
Our small group consists of three nature photographers and an experienced guide. Equipped with snowshoes and our camera backpacks, we set off in the morning from Kongsvoll, a tiny village on the edge of the Dovrefjell-Sunndalsfjella National Park. Our destination: a herd of musk oxen that have been spotted on the barren plateaus around the promising Moskusstien.
Moskusstien is a marked hiking trail in Dovrefjell that leads nature lovers and photographers directly into the realm of the musk oxen. The trail starts near the E6 at Kongsvoll or at Hjerkinn and winds its way through the barren, vast mountain landscape up to the plateaus where, with a bit of luck, the primeval animals can be observed. The trail is around 10 to 15 kilometers long (depending on the variant) and requires a good level of fitness, especially in winter when deep snow and icy winds make the ascent difficult. Snowshoes or touring skis are then essential. Along the way, Moskusstien not only offers opportunities for wildlife spotting, but also breathtaking views of the Dovrefjell massif, including the striking Snøhetta. Information boards along the trail provide information on geology, flora, fauna and the history of the reintroduction of musk oxen. Despite its accessibility, the tour should never be underestimated - changeable weather, disorientation and encounters with wild musk oxen make it advisable to walk the route only with appropriate equipment and an experienced guide.
Encounter with prehistoric Animals
After about three kilometers and 300 meters of ascent, we reach a valley. There they stand: six musk ox bulls. Their massive bodies seem almost immobile in the snow flurries, but the animals are wide awake. With their broad front hooves, they dig for lichens and roots in the snow. The dense, shaggy hair reaches almost to the ground and protects the animals even at temperatures below minus 30 degrees Celsius.
The musk ox (Ovibos moschatus) is one of the last representatives of the animal world from the Ice Age. Originally native to the Arctic of North America, it was successfully reintroduced to Norway in the 1930s. Today, around 200 to 300 animals live in Dovrefjell, where they are strictly protected. Hunting is prohibited, and observations may only be made at a distance so as not to stress the animals, especially in the cold season, when every escape costs unnecessary energy. Some of my photos may look as if I were standing right next to the animals, but I was further away than it seems. A good telephoto lens makes a lot of things possible here.
Anatomy of a Survivalist
Musk oxen are perfectly adapted to the Arctic cold. Their coat consists of two layers: a dense, woolly undercoat (qiviut), which is warmer than cashmere, and a long, coarse outer coat. Their bulky build with short legs, small tail and thick neck reduces the surface area exposed to wind and cold. Even their nasal structure is designed to pre-warm the air they breathe before it reaches their lungs.
In winter, the animals join together in small bull herds, while the females form their own groups with the calves. Only during the mating season in summer do the males compete for the females with impressive fights. This is a time when the animals can become aggressive and unpredictable. But now, in late winter, it's all about survival. Calmly, almost stoically, they stand in the wind and dig for food unperturbed. Only sometimes do they measure their strength by facing each other and staring at each other.
Safety in Dovrefjell with the Musk Oxen
The sky, which we have been keeping a watchful eye on since midday, darkens visibly. As predicted, the wind picks up, and it doesn't take long for the snow to whip horizontally across the plain. We make our way back laboriously, step by step, against the storm. Visibility gets worse and worse, but our guide knows the terrain and leads us safely back to the valley.
On a winter tour to the musk oxen in Dovrefjell, safety is paramount - both in terms of the harsh weather conditions and keeping a respectful distance from the animals. The high plateau is often still covered in deep snow in March, with temperatures well below freezing, strong winds, and sudden changes in the weather. Snowstorms and poor visibility can make orientation difficult, while icy slopes and deep snow make progress energy-sapping. There can also be a risk of avalanches on steeper slopes. It is equally important to keep a safe distance from the musk oxen themselves: Although the primeval-looking animals are generally peaceful, they can react suddenly and aggressively when threatened, especially older bulls. An adult bull can reach speeds of up to 60 km/h and attack dangerously with its massive body. A minimum distance of 200 meters is prescribed by the national park administration. Experienced guides know the behavior of the animals and the peculiarities of the area and make a significant contribution to making the tour safe and stress-free for both humans and animals.
It is only in the warm room of the Dovrefjell Lodge that I realize how exhausted - and satisfied - I am. The experience of encountering these primitive animals in their natural environment will stay with me for a long time.
Dovrefjell-Sunndalsfjella National Park
Dovrefjell-Sunndalsfjella National Park covers more than 1,700 square kilometers in central Norway and comprises a unique mosaic of alpine plateaus, deeply carved valleys, moors, and river systems. The park was established in 2002 and protects not only spectacular landscapes, but also an extraordinary diversity of species that have adapted to the harsh climatic conditions.
The highest peak in the national park is the 2,286-metre-high Snøhetta, a striking mountain and symbolic landmark of the region, which is also popular with hikers and nature photographers. Unfortunately, the hut at the viewpoint was not open in winter, but we were able to sit in the sun on a bench in the lee of the hut. Botanically, the area is remarkable, as rare arctic-alpine plant species grow here that are rarely found elsewhere in Norway.
Dovrefjell Park is particularly famous as the home of the last wild musk oxen on the European mainland, which, after being reintroduced from Greenland in the 1930s, once again roam the plateaus in small herds. In addition to the musk oxen, the national park is also home to one of the few remaining populations of wild reindeer on the European mainland. These animals are much shyer and avoid human proximity, but also roam the open areas in search of lichen under the snow during the winter months. In addition to musk oxen and wild reindeer, the park is also home to Arctic foxes, wolverines, and ptarmigans.
Dovrefjell Park is particularly famous as the home of the last wild musk oxen on the European mainland, which, after being reintroduced from Greenland in the 1930s, once again roam the plateaus in small herds. In addition to the musk oxen, the national park is also home to one of the few remaining populations of wild reindeer on the European mainland. These animals are much shyer and avoid human proximity, but also roam the open areas in search of lichen under the snow during the winter months. In addition to musk oxen and wild reindeer, the park is also home to Arctic foxes, wolverines and ptarmigans.
Conclusion
Anyone traveling in Dovrefjell in winter enters a landscape that is uncompromising - but also of profound beauty. And if you are lucky enough to see musk oxen up close, you will sense that they are more than just relics of the ice age: they are survival artists in a changing world and a reminder of how fragile even something as big and strong as the musk ox can be.
Book Recommendations for Nature Photographers
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Recommendations for further Reading
Want to spot even more wildlife? Then take a look at my article about Birdwatching in the Pond Landscape Linum and about Neuwerk Island - Birdwatching in the Hamburg Wadden Sea .
