Germany. The cries of the birds echo across the Red Cliff like a wild concert. Below, the North Sea rages, while above, white silhouettes circle in the wind. I am standing on the highlands of Heligoland, Germany's only offshore island, looking out at the famous Lummenfelsen rock while northern gannets circle above me. Right next to me, just a few inches from the barrier, the large white birds sit on their nests. It is the end of May. While some gannets still cradle and warm their single egg with their large feet, other breeding pairs already have chicks in their nests. Some are tiny, others are already so big that the nest is getting crowded.
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The Kings of the Cliffs: Northern Gannets
They are impossible to miss: the majestic northern gannets (Morus bassanus, sailing over the sea with a wingspan of almost two meters. Their snow-white bodies, black wing tips, and yellowish heads make them striking creatures. Heligoland is the only place in Germany where these large seabirds breed – and only since 1991. There are now over 1,500 breeding pairs.
Northern gannets do not reach sexual maturity until they are about five years old. Once they have mated, they remain together for life. They also return to the same nesting site year after year and continue to expand it. This results in impressive nests that can weigh more than 50 kilograms over the years, with a high proportion of non-biodegradable plastic.
In spring, northern gannets return to their nesting sites on Heligoland. After mating, the female lays a single egg, which is incubated for about 6–8 weeks. It takes about three months for the young bird to fledge. Young northern gannets are initially darkly spotted and only become lighter in color over time until they have the typical white plumage of adult birds.
Northern gannets form strong pair bonds. Every time they return to the nest, the partners greet each other affectionately: they rub their beaks together and preen each other's feathers – a touching sight that offers great photo opportunities.
Tips for Nature Observers and Photographers
All seabird species that nest on the cliffs come to the island only to breed and raise their chicks. They spend most of their lives on the open sea. The best time to observe the seabirds breeding is between May and July. Mid-June offers a very special highlight: the “loon dive.” This is when the young guillemots, which are not yet able to fly, jump off the cliffs into the water. The Jordsand Association offers special guided tours at this time of year.
The “guillemot rock” can be visited via the developed cliff-edge path. Binoculars and a telephoto lens are useful for seeing the details of the more distant nests of the guillemots and razorbills. The gannet nests extend right up to the fence at the edge of the path, where you can observe the birds at close range. Photographers can actually use a wide-angle lens here and experiment with new perspectives.
As always with wildlife photography, it pays to bring time and patience. This is the only way to recognize the different behaviors of the animals and have the opportunity to experience them at different times of the day or in different weather conditions. For example, the colony behaves very differently in windy conditions than in stagnant heat. They are much more active in windy conditions, while in hot weather, they hold their open beaks up, pant, and no longer warm their chicks. Then you can see chicks of all sizes. The wind direction also plays a role in photo opportunities, because the gannets always land into the wind. When the wind is blowing onshore, they stand above the observation platforms for quite a while and can be photographed very well in flight. But be careful, you can quickly get white spots on your clothes.
What's more, if you have plenty of time and space on your memory card, Lummenfelsen on Heligoland offers great opportunities for creative photography or simply trying something new:
- High-key shots during the glaring midday light
- Low-key shots and backlit shots
- Detailed images of feathers, eyes, claws
- Multiple exposures
- Empty space
- Photographing through grass or bushes or partially covering the lens with something (flowers, feathers, prisms)
Bring enough drinks and something to eat. It's a good 800 meters to the nearest restaurant or Edeka supermarket, and also to the nearest restroom. Don't forget sunscreen and wind protection, because there is no shade and nowhere to take shelter on the cliff-edge path. Only in the neighboring meadow can you find some wind protection in the hollows of the terrain.
Here are a few of my favorite pictures:
Plastic Waste in the Seabird Colony
Helgoland is unique. Located 60 kilometers from the mainland, the island lies in the middle of the fish-rich currents of the German Bight—a hotspot for marine biodiversity. Here, seabirds find food in the form of shoals of fish and crustaceans. The red sandstone cliffs offer them a safe breeding ground, free from land predators. It is precisely because Helgoland is so isolated that Germany's only seabird colony has been able to thrive here.
Despite the beauty of the Lummenfelsen, Helgoland also has a tragic side. The northern gannets build their nests from natural materials such as algae, seaweed, and tufts of grass – but unfortunately also from plastic debris and fragments of nets. I can see into the nests from close up. I can clearly make out the orange and blue fibers of polypropylene ropes, remnants of fishing nets, and plastic strings. What looks like colorful decoration is deadly: time and again, adult and young birds get tangled up in it. The nets cut deep into their flesh or lead to an agonizing death by strangulation or starvation. Many seabirds also mistake plastic for food and feed it to their chicks, which then starve to death with full stomachs.
According to expert estimates, around 60 northern gannets and 100 guillemots die each year on Helgoland as a result of fishing net debris. The consequences range from injuries and organ failure to massive losses in breeding success. Intervention is usually not possible because if one were to approach the nests to rescue an animal, neighboring chicks would flee in panic and possibly fall to their deaths.
Other Species inhabiting the Cliffs: Guillemots, Razorbills, Kittiwakes, and Fulmars
The Guillemot (Uria aalge) is the namesake of Lummenfelsen. From a distance, they resemble small penguins, although they are capable of flight. They lay their eggs directly on the rocks without building a nest. The pear-shaped shape of the egg prevents it from rolling down. The colony is crowded, with loud calls and frantic fluttering. But amid the sounds of life, I also see several dead guillemots dangling in nylon nets at the edge of the cliff. The birds have become entangled in the plastic fibers and now hang as a silent memorial just a few meters from the path.
A little away from the guillemots, a few razorbills (Alca torda) nest. They are easily recognizable by their deep black color and the striking white stripe along their beaks. Razorbills have been breeding on Helgoland since the 1980s, using small piles of stones as nests. Kittiwakes (Rissa tridactyla) also belong to the breeding community on Helgoland's cliffs. In Germany, they breed exclusively on Helgoland and build small nests in sheltered niches, often made of algae and grass. But they also use plastic when they find it. Among the gulls, I also see a few fulmars (Fulmarus glacialis), elegant North Sea sailors with gray wings and a booming call.
Protective Measures for the Seabirds
Helgoland and its bird cliffs are under strict protection. The Lummenfelsen is part of a nature reserve, and visitors are guided along fixed paths; feeding the animals, drones, and climbing are prohibited. Research stations such as the “Institute for Bird Research” and initiatives such as the “Jordsand” association are committed to monitoring, litter collection campaigns, and education. Some of the net traps on the cliffs are removed regularly — a laborious but important contribution.
In addition, the EU is committed to reducing plastic waste and “ghost nets” – lost or deliberately discarded fishing nets that continue to catch and kill fish – as part of its Marine Strategy Framework Directive. However, as long as fishing waste and other plastic waste continue to end up in the sea, the problem will remain acute. Everyone can help – whether through plastic-free consumption, donations, or education.
Practical Information
Getting there
In summer, you can travel to Helgoland with the Halunderjet operated by FRS-Helgoline from Hamburg or Cuxhaven. The Cassen-Eils shipping company operates services from Cuxhaven, Bremerhaven, Büsum, and Langeoog. In winter, only the Cassen Eils shipping company's boat operates from Cuxhaven. From November onwards, travel to Helgoland is only possible from Cuxhaven with the Cassein Eils shipping company.
I traveled from Hamburg to Helgoland on the Halunderjet. The ship even had USB ports at the seats and a snack bar. At the landing stages, you can book a luggage service for a few euros. Then your luggage is taken directly from the ship to your accommodation. I had my bag taken to the Düne campsite. It took a while, so I used the time to take my first walk on the beach.
Accommodation
I definitely recommend staying on Helgoland for several days. I had planned three days for the northern gannets, and due to varying weather conditions (wind, wind direction, temperature), the behavior of the northern gannets was different each time.
Accommodation on the main island is extremely expensive. The best chance of getting good prices is to book very early (many months in advance) or to get a room at the youth hostel early on. If you want to book your accommodation on Booking.com , I would receive a small commission if you book via this affiliate link, and you would be helping me to run Fernweh-Motive. It won't cost you any more.
If you missed out on booking early but don't want to wait until next year, you can pitch your tent on the neighboring island of Düne. You'll need sand pegs and extra guy ropes, as it can get very windy. Protect your camera equipment from the sand. There is a charging station for cell phones and camera batteries at the campsite. However, the ten sockets are usually occupied and not all of them work. There are additional sockets in the lounge building at the harbor. Here you can sit comfortably and eat the snacks you brought with you. There is no kitchen at the campsite. So I was glad I brought my stove, which ensured my coffee supply in the morning.
One disadvantage of staying overnight on the dune is that you are tied to the dune ferry schedule and therefore miss the early and late light at Lummenfelsen. Tickets for the round trip cost €6 (as of 2025). One advantage is that you are close to the gray seals, which sometimes lie on the beach right in front of the campsite.
Luggage Storage
On the main island, there is free luggage storage at the Dünefähre ferry ticket office.
Food
On the main island, there is an Edeka supermarket and numerous restaurants in both the upper and lower regions. However, many of them do not open until the ships with day visitors arrive in the late morning/around noon. There are two restaurants and a small shop in the airport building on the dune.
Other Activities in the Area
- Other Activities in the Area
- Themed trails around the island for your own discoveries (history, culture, nature, architecture)
- Guided tours: island tour, nature tours, bunker tour, dune tour, lobster station, tour of the fishing garden of the Institute for Bird Research, historical urban tour
- Helgoland Museum with original replicas of lobster huts and lighthouse
- Bunker tunnels in the lowlands
- Watching seals on the neighboring island of Düne
Book Recommendations for Birdwatchers
Want to delve deeper into the hobby of birdwatching? Then I have three book recommendations for you. You can order the books* from Amazon by clicking on the images. If you purchase a book or other item via an affiliate link, I will receive a small commission and you will help me to continue filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be any more expensive for you.
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Recommendations for further Reading
Do you want to go birdwatching right away? Then check out my article about Birdwatching in the Pond Landscape Linum and about Neuwerk Island - Birdwatching in the Hamburg Wadden Sea .
