Germany. It is early December. The two-and-a-half-hour ferry crossing from Cuxhaven to Heligoland can be a wild ride at this time of year. But right now, something very special is attracting many nature lovers to Germany's offshore island: the birth season of the gray seals. From November to January, hundreds of gray seals are born on the flat sandy beaches of Heligoland Düne. It's a natural spectacle that is second to none.

I am spending three days on Heligoland to photograph the seals. I am hoping for one of those rare moments that nature photographers dream of: a birth. In the following, I will tell you about my time with the gray seals and give you lots of practical tips for your own photo trip to the seals on Heligoland Düne

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New Life among the Gray Seals

The wind has a firm grip on the Heligoland dunes. Fine sand whips across the beach, drawing bright veils across the ground. The grains of sand hit me like tiny needles and crunch between my teeth. I am glad I have my safety goggles from the hardware store, which allow me to keep my eyes open without straining them. My gaze and my camera are fixed on a large gray seal that is behaving conspicuously nervously, not far from the barrier fence. After a few minutes of sand exfoliation, my suspicion is confirmed: her abdomen reveals a bulging red amniotic sac.

The female turns awkwardly onto her side, first one way, then the other. She bends like a banana, turns in circles, and tries to push the amniotic sac further out. The surrounding seals raise their heads, unimpressed. The offspring takes its time. For about 15 minutes, it hangs halfway out in the fresh North Sea wind of 7 Beaufort, while its mother twists and turns, bends and rolls in circles. All without making a sound, less than two meters away from the mobile barrier fence that separates visitors from the wild animals. All observers keep a respectful distance and watch. Also, without making a sound. Then suddenly everything happens very quickly, and a wet, yellowish bundle lies in the sand.

The little seal pup immediately opens its eyes and is sniffed and touched by its mother. Moments of closeness, simply beautiful to watch. Meanwhile, the crows jostle in front of the placenta before it cools down and is covered with sand. A wild feeding frenzy begins. The calf looks at the world with its big black eyes, somewhat irritated. Can it already see the crow right in front of it clearly? Can it see us photographers? Its first movements seem shaky, tentative. It takes a while for the little one to find the milk teats and for its fur to dry. Now it is no longer yellowish, but shows its beautiful white lanugo fur. A piece of the fresh umbilical cord still hangs from its belly.

Growth in Record Time – From a white Ball of Fur to Germany's Largest Predator

Seal pups are born weighing around 10 to 14 kilograms. Due to the fat content of their milk, which is more than 50 percent, the pups gain up to two kilograms per day and soon develop a thick, white layer of blubber. Some mothers stay with their calves permanently, while others leave their young alone for a few hours to go fishing. When the calves are weaned after 15 to 21 days, they are on their own. About ten days after weaning, their fur changes, and the white woolly coat is replaced by a swimming coat. Then come the first attempts at swimming, and the young seal begins to hunt instinctively.

On the beach, I see young animals that are only a few days old and others that have already become little rolls of blubber. They seem extremely clumsy on land, but are already very curious. They explore with their snouts, feel their way with their highly sensitive whiskers, and turn their heads toward every new sound.

Grey seals belong to the family of dog seals. Their range extends from Norway to the East Coast of America. The animals that come to Heligoland belong to the eastern North Sea population. They are the largest predators in Germany:

• Males can weigh up to 300 kilograms. They only reach their full strength at around eight years of age.
• Females remain significantly smaller, weighing between 150 and 200 kilograms.
• Young animals weigh between 10 and 14 kilograms at birth.
• The average life expectancy of a gray seal is 35 years.
• Gray seals can reach speeds of up to 20 km/h on land and up to 40 km/h in water.
• Estimates of the survival rate in the first year of life vary greatly depending on location and conditions, ranging from less than 50% to 85%. The main causes of death are often starvation or injury.

Deutschlands wohl stürmischste Kinderstube

Heligoland Dune is barely recognizable in winter. The summer vacationers are gone, leaving behind silence, wind, and Germany's largest gray seal colony. Every year starting in November, this beach becomes the most important birthplace for the eastern North Sea population of gray seals (Halichoerus grypus).Halichoerus grypus).

What appears to be a barren place is in fact a perfectly functioning nursery:

• Strict social distancing rules and barriers separate visitors from the animals.
• A wide beach that is never completely flooded.
• Vigilant rangers keep an eye on seal pups in need of help and keep an eye on visitors.
• Waters rich in fish.

The gray seals often lie close together. Therefore, the beaches are closed to humans. It is no longer possible to walk on the beach without disturbing the seals or risking a bite. However, you can still observe the animals:

There is a raised wooden boardwalk in the dunes on the north beach. From here, you have a good view of the north beach. Some of the seals lie very close to or high up in the dunes. Sometimes they even crawl across the panoramic trail.

The southern beach is accessible up to the Düne restaurant (closed in winter) at the upper edge; the rest of the beach is separated by a sturdy metal fence. The seals are also spread out across the entire beach up to the fence. Despite the fence, it is important to keep your distance here as well, otherwise the animals will become restless or too accustomed to humans. This can become a problem in the following bathing season when the seals, accustomed to humans, get too close to bathers.

A Look back at the History of Heligoland

Heligoland and the neighboring island of Düne only acquired their current shape and size during the Nazi era. In order to develop Heligoland as a strategic naval port, both islands were to be greatly enlarged as part of the Hummerschere project. To this end, large parts of the present-day island were filled in and fortified so that their shape and size were no longer subject to the influence of the tides. This created the northeast and south harbor areas on the main island, and Düne was enlarged many times over, and the airport was built.

Gray Seals in Germany – A Success Story

Grey seals used to be mercilessly hunted in the North Sea – for their fur, their meat, and because of the mistaken belief that they were decimating fish stocks. By the beginning of the 20th century, gray seals had been almost wiped out in German waters. In addition to hunting, environmental toxins also caused their numbers to decline dramatically. It was only with strict protection under the Federal Nature Conservation Act, international agreements, and the designation of the Heligoland FFH area with the Heligoland rock base that the population began to slowly recover.

Since the first gray seal birth on Heligoland in the winter of 1996/97, there has been a steady increase in the number of births. Today, Heligoland is the most important breeding ground for gray seals in Germany—and one of the few places in Europe where you can observe the birth of these animals without endangering them. Today, around 1,000 pups are born here every year – and the trend is rising.

Total number of gray seal births (source: Verein Jordsand e.V.):

– 2024/25: over 1,000 pups
– 2023/24: 850-900 pups
– 2022/23: 700-800 pups
– 2021/22: 670 pups
– 2020/21: 652 pups

Life in the Colony – Closeness and Distance

Wind blows sand across the beach, swirling around the animals like thin veils. But the seals seem unmoved by such moments: they close their eyes and let everything wash over them. There is a clear order among the adult animals: mothers keep their distance from each other, young animals lie scattered across a wide area, and males patrol the edges. Although the colony appears dense, the animals rarely touch each other.

The most common behaviors I observe are:

• Contact sounds between mother and pup, suckling, playful physical contact between pup and mother
• Protection of the pup from other seals
• Rearing up and threatening, especially between males, but also females, who attack each other if one comes too close.
• Mock attacks, which often consist only of a low head position and open mouth
• Bloody fights between the bulls
• The approach of the bulls to the females, because mating takes place immediately after weaning the young. Most of the time, the bulls are driven away, but I was able to observe mating twice.

Mating Season in Winter

While the young animals still lie awkwardly on the beach, the mating season begins for the adults. The males wait, observe, and show their presence. They keep a close eye on when one of their females is ready to mate. However, if the males approach the female too early, they are rudely rejected.

The stately bulls vehemently defend their harem (typically five to seven females) against intruders and competitors. Violent fights are rare – most rivalries are decided by body language, vocalizations, and mutual intimidation.

After successful mating, the fertilized egg enters a dormant period of around three months. Only then does the approximately eight-month embryonic development begin. This makes it possible for the birth to take place again in winter. By then, most females have built up enough energy reserves to nurse for several weeks.

The Moment that remains

As I leave the beach in the evening, the calf whose birth I witnessed is nestled close to its mother. Its fur is no longer wet and shines white. It looks around curiously, appearing full and content. The moment when the seal pup fell from the bursting amniotic sac onto the beach and lay there as a wet, helpless bundle in the sand-filled gusts of wind is burned into my memory.

Heligoland Dune shows its roughest side in winter. And at the same time it's most tender. New life grows here, and nature tells one of its oldest stories. Quiet. Wild. And every year anew.

How to behave around Gray Seals

Gray seals are Germany's largest predators and should be treated with respect and consideration. For the successful rearing of young animals and for your own safety, please note the following:

• Check with the rangers and staff of the Jordsands e.V. association about the current accessibility of the beaches and any restrictions in place.
• You may encounter seals outside the barriers. On freely accessible areas, be sure to keep a distance of 30 meters from the animals.
• Young animals that have been influenced by too close contact with humans can sometimes make safe and carefree swimming difficult in summer. They approach bathers fearlessly.
• Do not go near bull fights, as the animals can reach speeds of around 20 km/h on land and are particularly aggressive during the mating season.
• Do not block the animals' access to the water or from the water to land. Never get between a calf and its mother.
• Severe disturbances can permanently disrupt the sensitive bond between mother and calf, which can lead to high calf mortality in the first year of life.

Photography Tips for Gray Seals on Heligoland Dune

Access to the beach:

The beaches are largely closed during the breeding season. There is an elevated panoramic path on the north beach from which you can observe the seals, and on the south beach you can walk along the beach up to a metal fence separating it from the dune restaurant.

Perspective:

Since the gray seals lie on the ground, the best pictures are taken when you lie on the ground yourself. This is only possible on the south beach, where the metal fence is located.

Focal length:

I took most of the pictures with a 200-600 mm telephoto lens. Unfortunately, the lens end was too large in diameter, so I couldn't use the metal fence as a tripod substitute. However, I was still able to take good pictures, even close to the ground. The 100-400 mm lens would have been better suited. A standard lens is definitely worthwhile for photographing the landscape and the seals in their habitat.

Best time to travel:

The birthing season lasts from November to January. When I was on Heligoland Düne at the beginning of December, around 700 pups had already been born, and there were many different age groups. The best chance of seeing a birth is at the end of November.

Best time of the day:

I couldn't detect any different activity patterns among the gray seals throughout the day, but it is said that they are most active in the morning. In addition, the morning and evening are particularly beautiful because of the beautiful light. This allows you to take beautiful backlit shots in the morning

Sand and rain:

Sand blows most near the ground, and it is almost impossible to prevent it from getting on your camera. If you like, bring a protective cover and UV filter. A brush has proven useful for brushing off sand grains at the end of the day.

Food, warming up, toilet:

Bring everything you need for food and drink. Drinking water can be refilled in the toilets in the heated exhibition/lounge area at the ferry terminal. There are also power outlets and tables for lunch breaks.

Getting to the dunes:

The first dune ferry leaves at 8 a.m. at the beginning of December, and a round trip costs €6. More information here.

Book Recommendations for Nature Lovers

Would you like to learn more about wildlife observation? Then I have three book recommendations for you. You can order the books* from Amazon by clicking on the images. If you buy a book or another article via an affiliate link, I will receive a small commission, and you will help me to continue to fill Wanderlust Motifs with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you.

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Der Beitrag Nachwuchs im Winterwind – Kegelrobben auf Helgoland-Düne erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Germany. The cries of the birds echo across the Red Cliff like a wild concert. Below, the North Sea rages, while above, white silhouettes circle in the wind. I am standing on the highlands of Heligoland, Germany's only offshore island, looking out at the famous Lummenfelsen rock while northern gannets circle above me. Right next to me, just a few inches from the barrier, the large white birds sit on their nests. It is the end of May. While some gannets still cradle and warm their single egg with their large feet, other breeding pairs already have chicks in their nests. Some are tiny, others are already so big that the nest is getting crowded.

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The Kings of the Cliffs: Northern Gannets

They are impossible to miss: the majestic northern gannets (Morus bassanus, sailing over the sea with a wingspan of almost two meters. Their snow-white bodies, black wing tips, and yellowish heads make them striking creatures. Heligoland is the only place in Germany where these large seabirds breed – and only since 1991. There are now over 1,500 breeding pairs.

Northern gannets do not reach sexual maturity until they are about five years old. Once they have mated, they remain together for life. They also return to the same nesting site year after year and continue to expand it. This results in impressive nests that can weigh more than 50 kilograms over the years, with a high proportion of non-biodegradable plastic.

Northern gannets form strong pair bonds. Every time they return to the nest, the partners greet each other affectionately: they rub their beaks together and preen each other's feathers – a touching sight that offers great photo opportunities.

Tips for Nature Observers and Photographers

All seabird species that nest on the cliffs come to the island only to breed and raise their chicks. They spend most of their lives on the open sea. The best time to observe the seabirds breeding is between May and July. Mid-June offers a very special highlight: the “loon dive.” This is when the young guillemots, which are not yet able to fly, jump off the cliffs into the water. The Jordsand Association offers special guided tours at this time of year.

The “guillemot rock” can be visited via the developed cliff-edge path. Binoculars and a telephoto lens are useful for seeing the details of the more distant nests of the guillemots and razorbills. The gannet nests extend right up to the fence at the edge of the path, where you can observe the birds at close range. Photographers can actually use a wide-angle lens here and experiment with new perspectives.

As always with wildlife photography, it pays to bring time and patience. This is the only way to recognize the different behaviors of the animals and have the opportunity to experience them at different times of the day or in different weather conditions. For example, the colony behaves very differently in windy conditions than in stagnant heat. They are much more active in windy conditions, while in hot weather, they hold their open beaks up, pant, and no longer warm their chicks. Then you can see chicks of all sizes. The wind direction also plays a role in photo opportunities, because the gannets always land into the wind. When the wind is blowing onshore, they stand above the observation platforms for quite a while and can be photographed very well in flight. But be careful, you can quickly get white spots on your clothes.

What's more, if you have plenty of time and space on your memory card, Lummenfelsen on Heligoland offers great opportunities for creative photography or simply trying something new:

• High-key shots during the glaring midday light
• Low-key shots and backlit shots
• Detailed images of feathers, eyes, claws
• Multiple exposures
• Empty space
• Photographing through grass or bushes or partially covering the lens with something (flowers, feathers, prisms)

Bring enough drinks and something to eat. It's a good 800 meters to the nearest restaurant or Edeka supermarket, and also to the nearest restroom. Don't forget sunscreen and wind protection, because there is no shade and nowhere to take shelter on the cliff-edge path. Only in the neighboring meadow can you find some wind protection in the hollows of the terrain.

Here are a few of my favorite pictures:

Plastic Waste in the Seabird Colony

Helgoland is unique. Located 60 kilometers from the mainland, the island lies in the middle of the fish-rich currents of the German Bight—a hotspot for marine biodiversity. Here, seabirds find food in the form of shoals of fish and crustaceans. The red sandstone cliffs offer them a safe breeding ground, free from land predators. It is precisely because Helgoland is so isolated that Germany's only seabird colony has been able to thrive here.

Despite the beauty of the Lummenfelsen, Helgoland also has a tragic side. The northern gannets build their nests from natural materials such as algae, seaweed, and tufts of grass – but unfortunately also from plastic debris and fragments of nets. I can see into the nests from close up. I can clearly make out the orange and blue fibers of polypropylene ropes, remnants of fishing nets, and plastic strings. What looks like colorful decoration is deadly: time and again, adult and young birds get tangled up in it. The nets cut deep into their flesh or lead to an agonizing death by strangulation or starvation. Many seabirds also mistake plastic for food and feed it to their chicks, which then starve to death with full stomachs.

According to expert estimates, around 60 northern gannets and 100 guillemots die each year on Helgoland as a result of fishing net debris. The consequences range from injuries and organ failure to massive losses in breeding success. Intervention is usually not possible because if one were to approach the nests to rescue an animal, neighboring chicks would flee in panic and possibly fall to their deaths.

Other Species inhabiting the Cliffs: Guillemots, Razorbills, Kittiwakes, and Fulmars

The Guillemot (Uria aalge) is the namesake of Lummenfelsen. From a distance, they resemble small penguins, although they are capable of flight. They lay their eggs directly on the rocks without building a nest. The pear-shaped shape of the egg prevents it from rolling down. The colony is crowded, with loud calls and frantic fluttering. But amid the sounds of life, I also see several dead guillemots dangling in nylon nets at the edge of the cliff. The birds have become entangled in the plastic fibers and now hang as a silent memorial just a few meters from the path.

A little away from the guillemots, a few razorbills (Alca torda) nest. They are easily recognizable by their deep black color and the striking white stripe along their beaks. Razorbills have been breeding on Helgoland since the 1980s, using small piles of stones as nests. Kittiwakes (Rissa tridactyla) also belong to the breeding community on Helgoland's cliffs. In Germany, they breed exclusively on Helgoland and build small nests in sheltered niches, often made of algae and grass. But they also use plastic when they find it. Among the gulls, I also see a few fulmars (Fulmarus glacialis), elegant North Sea sailors with gray wings and a booming call.

Protective Measures for the Seabirds

Helgoland and its bird cliffs are under strict protection. The Lummenfelsen is part of a nature reserve, and visitors are guided along fixed paths; feeding the animals, drones, and climbing are prohibited. Research stations such as the “Institute for Bird Research” and initiatives such as the “Jordsand” association are committed to monitoring, litter collection campaigns, and education. Some of the net traps on the cliffs are removed regularly — a laborious but important contribution.

In addition, the EU is committed to reducing plastic waste and “ghost nets” – lost or deliberately discarded fishing nets that continue to catch and kill fish – as part of its Marine Strategy Framework Directive. However, as long as fishing waste and other plastic waste continue to end up in the sea, the problem will remain acute. Everyone can help – whether through plastic-free consumption, donations, or education.

Practical Information

Getting there

In summer, you can travel to Helgoland with the Halunderjet operated by FRS-Helgoline from Hamburg or Cuxhaven. The Cassen-Eils shipping company operates services from Cuxhaven, Bremerhaven, Büsum, and Langeoog. In winter, only the Cassen Eils shipping company's boat operates from Cuxhaven. From November onwards, travel to Helgoland is only possible from Cuxhaven with the Cassein Eils shipping company.

I traveled from Hamburg to Helgoland on the Halunderjet. The ship even had USB ports at the seats and a snack bar. At the landing stages, you can book a luggage service for a few euros. Then your luggage is taken directly from the ship to your accommodation. I had my bag taken to the Düne campsite. It took a while, so I used the time to take my first walk on the beach.

Accommodation

I definitely recommend staying on Helgoland for several days. I had planned three days for the northern gannets, and due to varying weather conditions (wind, wind direction, temperature), the behavior of the northern gannets was different each time.

Accommodation on the main island is extremely expensive. The best chance of getting good prices is to book very early (many months in advance) or to get a room at the youth hostel early on. If you want to book your accommodation on Booking.com , I would receive a small commission if you book via this affiliate link, and you would be helping me to run Fernweh-Motive. It won't cost you any more.

If you missed out on booking early but don't want to wait until next year, you can pitch your tent on the neighboring island of Düne. You'll need sand pegs and extra guy ropes, as it can get very windy. Protect your camera equipment from the sand. There is a charging station for cell phones and camera batteries at the campsite. However, the ten sockets are usually occupied and not all of them work. There are additional sockets in the lounge building at the harbor. Here you can sit comfortably and eat the snacks you brought with you. There is no kitchen at the campsite. So I was glad I brought my stove, which ensured my coffee supply in the morning.

One disadvantage of staying overnight on the dune is that you are tied to the dune ferry schedule and therefore miss the early and late light at Lummenfelsen. Tickets for the round trip cost €6 (as of 2025). One advantage is that you are close to the gray seals, which sometimes lie on the beach right in front of the campsite.

Luggage Storage

On the main island, there is free luggage storage at the Dünefähre ferry ticket office.

Food

On the main island, there is an Edeka supermarket and numerous restaurants in both the upper and lower regions. However, many of them do not open until the ships with day visitors arrive in the late morning/around noon. There are two restaurants and a small shop in the airport building on the dune.

Other Activities in the Area

• Other Activities in the Area
• Themed trails around the island for your own discoveries (history, culture, nature, architecture)
• Guided tours: island tour, nature tours, bunker tour, dune tour, lobster station, tour of the fishing garden of the Institute for Bird Research, historical urban tour
• Helgoland Museum with original replicas of lobster huts and lighthouse
• Bunker tunnels in the lowlands
• Watching seals on the neighboring island of Düne

Book Recommendations for Birdwatchers

Want to delve deeper into the hobby of birdwatching? Then I have three book recommendations for you. You can order the books* from Amazon by clicking on the images. If you purchase a book or other item via an affiliate link, I will receive a small commission and you will help me to continue filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be any more expensive for you.

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

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Recommendations for further Reading

Do you want to go birdwatching right away? Then check out my article about Birdwatching in the Pond Landscape Linum and about Neuwerk Island - Birdwatching in the Hamburg Wadden Sea .

Der Beitrag Helgoland Vogelfotografie – Basstölpel und andere Seevögel am Lummenfelsen erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Norway. Most people travel to Nordkapp to take selfies of themselves and the polar sphere. I went to Nordkapp to photograph birds. A boat tour takes me to the bird cliff Gjesværstappan, a birdwatching paradise. More than a million puffins and thousands of other seabirds live here. Several sea eagles have also taken a liking to the land of milk and honey on the Arctic rocky islands.

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Birdwatching by Boat to Gjesværstappan

The boat tour to the bird cliffs starts in the small fishing village of Gjesvær, about 15 kilometers west of Nordkapp. The Birdsafari team sails to the Gjesværstappan bird cliffs three times a day in summer. They know the waters and know exactly where the nesting sites of the various seabird species are. The professionals also know that it can get cold on the boat during the two-hour tour in the winds of the Barents Sea. Therefore, every guest can borrow a warm overall.

A Sea of Puffins

After just a few minutes drive, we spot the first puffins on the water. Soon there are more and more and at some point the entire surface of the water is covered with puffins and other seabirds right up to the horizon. They fly up as soon as our boat gets too close. I look after the birds, up into the sky. Countless birds are circling around the rocks, almost as many as there are swimming on the sea. I don't even know where to look first... maybe at the sea eagle flying through the picture?

Gjesværstappan on the North Cape is one of Norway's largest Bird Cliffs

Gjesværstappan is home to one of Norway's largest seabird colonies with millions of birds from over 20 different species. The archipelago offers some of the best birdwatching opportunities in the far north. The number of breeding birds is impressive. This is partly due to the good feeding grounds that the sea provides here. Warm and cold ocean currents meet here in the Barents Sea, so the sea is rich in nutrients.

Gjesværstappan is an archipelago in the Norwegian province of Troms og Finnmark, northwest of the small fishing village of Gjesvær on the island of Magerøya near Nordkapp. The archipelago consists of three main islands that rise high and steeply out of the sea: Storstappen (283 m), Kjerkestappen (166 m) and Bukkstappen (92 m). In addition to the main islands, smaller rocks are jutting out of the water that are also used as nesting sites. Most birds nest on Storstappen, the largest of the three islands. In addition to countless birds, there are also traces of human settlement on the islands dating back thousands of years. There was once even a church on Kjerkestappen.

The islands are an ornithological jewel and an important breeding ground for numerous seabirds. The fish-rich waters of the Barents Sea offer the best conditions for seabirds. In the summer months, when the midnight sun lights up the horizon, the islands are a hive of activity. The steep cliffs and secluded islands provide an ideal habitat that is largely protected from humans and predators. Unless the predator comes from the air, such as sea eagles or skuas.

The Seabirds on Gjesværstappan

Due to the remote location and the low level of human disturbance, countless species of seabirds have been able to settle here. In addition to the puffins, we soon see guillemots, black guillemots, razorbills, cormorants, shags, gannets, and several sea eagles. In between, we repeatedly spot kittiwakes, great black-backed gulls, and herring gulls. If you are lucky, you may also spot fulmars, little auks, or skuas, which often hunt smaller seabirds or steal their food.

The main bird species on Gjesværstappan are

Puffins - the Clowns of the Sea

The “clowns of the sea” are the stars of the island. The puffins have their colonies on the islands of Storstappen and Kirkstappan. They nest in burrows that they dig into the ground. The colony has more than one million animals, including young and non-breeding puffins. This makes it one of the largest puffin colonies in Europe.

Northern gannets

The elegant northern gannets with their distinctive yellowish-white heads attract attention with their acrobatic flying maneuvers and steep dives. Gannets were first sighted on Gjesværstappan in the 1980s. Since then, one of Norway's largest gannet colonies has developed here. Today, around 1200 pairs build their nests on the Staurspira promontory. The large, elegant birds also use the remains of fishing nets, which they fish out of the water. On closer inspection of the pictures, I could not only see fluffy chicks, but also that the nets have become the doom of one or two animals.

Common guillemots

The guillemot is represented by up to 650 breeding pairs. The thick-billed guillemot also used to nest here. However, the population has not survived here. The pressure from the sea eagles may have been too high.

Razorbill

The razorbill nests are hidden between rock crevices and are more difficult to see. The population is estimated at 2500 pairs.

Common Sandpiper

The sandpiper nests on Gjesværstappan in the fall and winter. Normally, sandpipers breed like all other birds. In spring and summer. However, to avoid gulls and other predatory birds, the little sandpiper is nocturnal and only flies to its nest at night. Due to the constant light of the midnight sun in the Arctic, it would have no chance of successfully raising its young. Only from September, when it gets dark again at night, does the white-tailed eagle begin to breed.

White-tailed eagle

During the breeding season, the cliffs must be a haven for birds of prey. As a result, numerous white-tailed eagles live around Gjesværstappan. Sometimes up to 30 eagles can be seen in the air at the same time. Most of them are non-breeding juveniles, which can be easily recognized by their plumage.

King Penguins in Norway?

There is a curious historical anecdote about the islands. In the 1936s, king penguins from South America were released on the bird cliffs of Gjesværstappan - an ambitious but ultimately unsuccessful experiment. The idea was to establish a colony of these majestic birds in the region, which could then be used as an additional source of food. However, the animals disappeared after just one week. They were probably simply caught and eaten. Today, there are only a few historical records and stories of this episode.

Protective Measures for the Seabirds

Due to its importance as a nesting area, Gjesværstappan has been designated as a nature reserve since 1983 and is also protected as an Important Bird Area. The protected area covers an area of 7.1 square kilometers, of which around 1.7 square kilometers is land. The islands can be visited by excursion boats. However, it is not permitted to enter the islands between June 15 and August 15.

The Gjesværstappan nature reserve is managed by the Norwegian Directorate for Nature Conservation and the local municipality. In addition to monitoring the bird population, the nature conservation efforts focus on controlling invasive species. Through sustainable birdwatching tourism and scientific monitoring, the aim is to ensure that Gjesværstappan remains a safe place for countless seabirds in the future.

Getting there and Birdwatching Boat Tours to Gjesværstappan

The best starting point for exploring Gjesværstappan is the village of Gjesvær, about 35 kilometers west of the North Cape. The easiest way to get there is to drive from Honningsvåg, the nearest town with a small airport with flights from Oslo and Tromsø and a harbor where the Hurtigruten dock. A scenic road leads from Honningsvåg to Gjesvær. The Hurtigruten offers organized bus tours to the islands.

Most guided boat tours depart from the harbor in Gjesvær and take about 1.5 to 2 hours. During the tour, the boat brings visitors close enough to the cliffs to observe the birds without disturbing the sensitive breeding colonies. Some providers offer tours specifically geared towards photography, with longer stops at the best observation points.

The best time for birdwatching at Gjesværstappan is from May to August, when the breeding season is in full swing and the birds are particularly active on the islands.

Conclusion: a Paradise for Birdwatchers

Gjesværstappan is a true birdwatching paradise for bird lovers and photographers. The variety of seabirds, the breathtaking landscape, and the opportunity to observe rare species at close range make a visit an unforgettable experience. Thanks to strict conservation measures, this natural jewel will hopefully be preserved so that future generations can also experience the impressive birdlife of these islands.

Other Sights and Activities in the Region

North Cape: A trip to the North Cape is almost obligatory if you are already in the region. It is the northernmost point of mainland Europe and offers impressive panoramas and a visitor center.

Experience Sami culture: The Finnmark region is home to the Sami, Norway's indigenous people. Visitors can learn more about Sami culture and traditions here, e.g. in Honningsvåg or through Sami craft stores and museums.

Midnight sun: From the end of May to the end of July, the sun never sets in this region. The “white nights” offer a unique nature experience and allow bird watching in exceptional light conditions.

Book recommendations for Norway

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

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Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love the north as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about my Husky Guide Training – Two Months with Hetta Huskies in Finland or about Trekking on the Laugavegur in Iceland.

Der Beitrag Birdwatching in Norwegen: Insel Gjesværstappan am Nordkapp erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

New Zealand. Farewell Spit is a narrow, curved sandbank on the northern tip of New Zealand's South Island, near Golden Bay. It is one of New Zealand's most famous and remote destinations for nature lovers, birdwatchers, and landscape photographers. In the following article, you can discover what makes Farewell Spit so special and how to best explore the area.

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About Farewell Spit in New Zealand

At over 28 kilometers long and 1.5 kilometers wide, Farewell Spit is one of the longest natural sand dunes in the world. It was formed over thousands of years by the deposition of sand from nearby rivers and coastal currents. Most of the spit is a nature reserve, classified as a bird sanctuary and wetland of international importance under the Ramsar Convention. Farewell Spit is home to over 90 species of birds, including black-tailed godwits, northern gannets, and oystercatchers. Marine life, particularly New Zealand fur seals and unfortunately the occasional beached whale, can also be seen on the beach.

The Highlights of Farewell Spit

The Farewell Spit headland can only be explored on your own for the first four kilometers. For all other places worth seeing, you have to take part in a guided tour. The only tour provider is Farewell Spit Eco Tours (as of Nov 2024).

Unique Landscape of Sand Dunes

Farewell Spit is a fascinating combination of miles of sand dunes, quiet beaches, and a rugged coastline. The contrast between the Tasman Sea on one side and the calm tidal flats on the other is particularly impressive. Those who climb the huge sand dunes have a spectacular view of the surrounding area from the top. PHOTO TIP: The wavy lines painted into the sand by the wind are a great motif for detailed shots.

Wildlife

During low tide, numerous birds are foraging on the mudflats of Golden Bay, including black swans, oystercatchers, knots, and bar-tailed godwits. As soon as the water rises again, many of the waders move to the Tasman Sea side, where you can see them in large flocks at the waterline.

Some guided tours also visit the gannet colony, which is the only colony on a beach in New Zealand.

Most of the time you can also see fur seals resting on the sand. Unfortunately, Farewell Spit is also the scene of numerous strandings of long-finned pilot whales and is known as a “whale trap” due to its protruding coastline and long, gently sloping beaches. During my visit in November 2024, there was a stranded sperm whale on the Tasman Sea side. A sad sight.

Farewell Spit Lighthouse

Another highlight of a guided tour is the historic lighthouse. Here you can learn more about the history of the Spit and the work of the lighthouse keepers. A small exhibition shows exhibits from the animal world and provides information about the nature of the spit.

Shipwrecks

Farewell Spit has been the scene of numerous shipwrecks. Most of these incidents occurred when a ship ran aground on sand in shallow water near the spit, either through navigational error or because it was driven ashore in bad weather. None of the wrecks were visible during my tour, but we were shown a sand dune under which a ship is said to be buried.

Cape Farewell

Directly west of the spit is Cape Farewell, the northernmost point of the South Island. It offers dramatic cliffs and coastal views.

Wharariki Beach

Wharariki Beach begins just five kilometers west of the base of the headland, next to Cape Farewell. The beach is known for its striking rock formations with caves, cliffs and the offshore Archway Islands. At sunset, the beach is a popular destination for photographers.

Visit Farewell Spit: Tours and on your own

Access to much of Farewell Spit is restricted to guided tours in order to protect the fragile ecosystem. Farewell Spit Eco Tours is the only licensed tour provider. Possible tours with the 4×4 bus start either from the small town of Collingwood or at the parking lot at the base of the sand spit. Click here to visit the Farewell Spit Eco Tours website..

Want to explore Farewell Spit on your own? You can do that in the first four kilometers of the sand spit. You can walk along Golden Bay and also along the Tasman Sea. The Cape Farewell and Wharariki Beach viewpoints are also freely accessible.

What makes the Tour special?

• Seclusion:As access is severely restricted, you experience Farewell Spit almost without other visitors and have the feeling of being in one of the most remote places in New Zealand.
• Unforgettable photo opportunities:Whether sunset, sand dunes or wildlife - there are numerous opportunities for impressive pictures.

Best time to visit Farewell Spit

Summer (November to February) is ideal for birdwatching as migratory species such as bar-tailed godwits and knot can be seen. The guided tours are timed with the tides to allow optimal access to the spit.

Tips for visiting Farewell Spit

• Bring: Water, snacks, sunscreen, binoculars and camera.
• Clothing: Windproof jacket and comfortable shoes for walking in sand and dunes.
• The tours are often fully booked quickly, especially in the high season. Book early!
• Respect the protected areas and follow the guide's instructions to ensure the preservation of this unique environment.

Book Recommendations for New Zealand

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love birding as much as I do? Then you'll definitely be interested in my article Birdwatching for Beginners - with Binoculars in Search of Happiness and my article Storks, Cranes & Co - Birdwatching around the "Stork Village" Linum.

Der Beitrag Ausflug zu den Dünen von Farewell Spit, Neuseeland erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Eisberge, Gletscherfronten, Vogelklippen und zwei gelbe Kajaks: Sieben Tage lang paddeln mein Partner und ich 150 Kilometer von Narsaq bis zum Qaleraliq Gletscher, wo die endlose Weite von Grönlands Inlandeis beginnt. Unsere Kajaktour in den Eisfjorden im Südwesten von Grönland war schon vor dem Start ein Vollzeit-Job: Recherche, Planung, Vorbereitung und schließlich das Packen ließen die To-Do-Liste vor der Tour immer länger werden. Doch die Ruhe in den Fjorden, das leise Plätschern beim Eintauchen der Paddel, die Eisberge und deren Spiegelungen im Wasser ließen uns all die langen Abende vorm Computer und den Karten schnell vergessen.

You can find a similar version of the following article in Kajak-Magazin 01/2024..

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Greenland is cold, windy and a polar bear lurks behind every second iceberg. So it's no wonder that the centerpiece of our tour planning was a multi-page safety plan. The "What do we do if..." scenarios ranged from an encounter with a polar bear, capsizing, and various injuries to the loss of equipment or even a kayak. We were prepared for everything. That's what we thought.

What we hadn't expected was the glassy sea in the mornings and plenty of sunshine. We were sweating in our dry suits and preferred to put on a bit more sunscreen instead of a hat and gloves. Nor did we expect to be offered fresh seal liver by a seal catcher or to be woken up one morning by the roar of a helicopter.

Paddling Paradise between steep Cliffs, Icebergs and Glacier Fronts 

The starting point of our kayak tour is the town of Narsaq in the southwest of Greenland. With just under 1,400 inhabitants, Narsaq is the second-largest town in the municipality of Kujalleq. The fjords here are particularly beautiful for paddling, as there are more icebergs here than anywhere else. Most of the ice comes from the Eqaloruutsit glacier, around 60 kilometers away, and drifts west towards the open sea. The branching fjords, steep banks, and many islands make this a beautiful and relatively sheltered paddling area for experienced paddlers and outdoor enthusiasts.

All Beginnings are difficult... and so was Day One of our Kayak Tour in Greenland

We hired the kayaks, life jackets, dry suits, distress signals, and the satphone from Blue Ice Explorer in Narsarsuaq . We continue by water cab to Narsaq, about 50 kilometers away. But as the saying goes? All beginnings are hard... In our case, it is deep: from the landing platform, we lower the fully loaded kayaks about one meter into the water. Then we climb in after them. There is no beach or shallow jetty within easy reach.

Only in the second bay after that is a small beach, a sports boat jetty, and a supermarket where we buy the rest of our provisions. After what feels like an eternity, all our luggage is finally stowed in the kayaks. Before we set off, we take a break and treat ourselves to a coffee and one of those delicious pastries in the supermarket. Then we finally set off. At that moment, we wouldn't have believed that we'd be back here in the supermarket the next day, drinking another coffee and eating another Danish pastry.

What happened? 

Spaghetti or Spirelli...or not...

In the evening at camp, I'm faced with the difficult choice of spaghetti with pesto or spirelli with tomato sauce for dinner. I opt for spaghetti and look forward to the hot meal. I quickly unpack the cooking utensils and want to screw the stove onto the gas cartridge. Irritated, I look at the cartridge and try again. But it doesn't help. The stove doesn't fit on the cartridge, and redundancy doesn't help if you have the same stove attachment and the same gas cartridge with you twice. Not all screw threads are the same. Even if the difference is only a fraction of a millimeter and invisible to the eye. The kitchen remains cold that evening. The next morning we paddle back to Narsaq and pray to all the old and new gods that we can get suitable gas cartridges from the supermarket. We are lucky. To be on the safe side this time, I try out both cartridges with both stoves. After all, it's not just our hot meals that depend on the stove working, but also our drinking water. We melt it from the glacier ice floating on the water. This is pure fresh water. It is so pure that we even add extra electrolyte powder.

Across the Bredefjord with new Gas Cartridges

The return to the supermarket extended our paddle tour by 18 kilometers. We have already used up our bad weather buffer day on the second day of our tour. I'm frustrated and fear that we won't reach our destination, the Qaleraliq glacier, at all. At the end of July, it is still light for a long time here in South Greenland. However, paddling times are often limited due to the tidal current and stronger winds in the afternoon.

But when we arrive back at our camp from the previous night in the afternoon, the paddling conditions are so good that we immediately attempt the four-kilometer crossing of the Bredefjord. The weather is also kind to us on the following days, so that we make much faster progress than expected.

Wind and Weather

We get the weather forecast from our GPS tracker. The weather is always better than forecast. However, due to the high mountains, the branching fjords, and the strong sunlight, the conditions in each fjord change over the course of the day. In the morning, the water is often as smooth as glass. The sun then causes local balancing winds to set in around midday, which become stronger and stronger during the afternoon and subside again in the evening.

I check the barometer three times a day and observe the clouds in the sky throughout the day. Every day, cirrus clouds form, which usually indicate a change in the weather within the next two days. But the air pressure remains constantly high. The weather only changes when we are back in Narsaq and in dry accommodation. What luck!

Qaleraliq Glacier - the Destination of our Greenland Kayak Tour

After four days of paddling, we finally reach our destination and turning point, the Qaleraliq Glacier. South-north expeditions to the Greenlandic ice sheet used to start from here. Today, Qaleraliq Camp offers Arctic comfort with a view of the remains of the glacier front. Due to global warming, the glacier has retreated considerably, splitting into three smaller glacier tongues. Only two of them still calve icebergs into the water. Due to the coronavirus pandemic, the camp is closed in the summer of 2022 and we pitch our tent on a neighboring hill.

The next morning, I listen contentedly to the calls of the seabirds. But suddenly a loud engine roars in my ears. A cruise ship has anchored in front of our camp and started flying its guests over the Qaleraliq Glacier by helicopter. It's time to get up. I'm amazed at how quickly we break camp this time and load our kayaks.

Tip: Little treasures* that make paddler's life easier:Tip: Small treasures* that make life easier for paddlers:

Keep your Distance - Icebergs break, roll or collapse in on themselves

We keep our distance from the glacier with our kayaks. We also prefer not to get too close to the large, towering, or otherwise unstable-looking icebergs. Especially in the afternoon, after the sun has warmed the ice, we hear pieces of ice breaking off again and again and see icebergs rolling and sometimes making considerable waves. Even on land, you have to expect waves from out of the blue at any time. That's why we never let the boats out of our sight during breaks and prefer to tie them up once more than once too little.

Route Planning with Satellite Images

The banks of the fjords are wild, usually steep and often unsuitable for landing with a kayak. In addition to the risk of getting our feet wet from icebergs tipping over in the tent, we also have to take into account a tidal range of around three meters. Although there is a rough map of the area, the nature of the shoreline and its suitability for entry and exit are not recognizable. Instead, I analyzed satellite images to plan my route and used Google Earth to create my own map for our kayak tour in Greenland. I marked possible places to land or camp in color. I planned our daily sections with lengths of 20 to 25 kilometers, knowing full well that the weather could quickly throw a spanner in the works. The only thing we couldn't use was a planned camp at the foot of a mountain, as the risk of falling rocks was too high. It was going to be a long day of paddling. We had to paddle several kilometers to the next suitable spot. What's more, we had previously taken too long a break and now had to paddle against the tidal current in choppy water. We were cursing!

A nocturnal Visitor to say Goodbye

We spent our last night at the same spot where we set up camp for the first time.

I sit outside for a long time, not wanting the day to end. Something dark flits across the stones next to me. At first, I thought it was one of the many ravens, but it doesn't fly away. The animal remains like a mere shadow in the not-quite-dark night. Slowly, I recognize a small head watching me. Then I see the elongated body and the bushy tail. I carefully turn around to get a better look at the little Arctic fox. We look at each other for a moment, then he runs off.

I wait a moment to see if the little fox might appear again. Meanwhile, my gaze wanders over the Bredefjord. The icebergs are at their largest directly in front of our camp. In my mind, I can see two yellow kayaks gliding between the countless icebergs. I walk back to the tent with a smile on my face.

Book Recommendations for Greenland

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Have you ever been to Greenland yourself, maybe even for a kayak tour? How did you like it? Do you have any questions about my article? If so, please write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Want to know more about travelling in Greenland? Then click here for my article about my Hike at Tasermiut Fjord or about my Winter Trip to East Greenland.

Der Beitrag Grönland Kajaktour – Paddeln in einem Meer aus Eisbergen erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

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Here is a first overview of what you can do on your own on the Galapagos Island San Cristóbal:

#1 Puerto Baquerizo Moreno - Walk along the Malecón
#2 Snorkeling with sea lions at Playa Mann beach
#3 Interpretation Center and Tijeras Hill (Frigatebird Hill)
#4 La Loberia beach - nursery of the sea lions
#5 El Junco Lagoon
#6 Galapaguera de Cerro Colorado
#7 Puerto Chino Beach

#1 Puerto Baquerizo Moreno - Walk along the Malecón

The port city of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno is the capital and seat of the government of the province of Galapagos. With about 5,400 inhabitants, it is the second largest city in the archipelago after Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz. It is also home to the city's airport, which receives daily flights from the mainland.

The city was founded in the middle of the 19th century by the colonist General Villamil. The island was named after Alfredo Baquerizo Moreno. He was the first Ecuadorian president to visit the Galapagos Islands in 1916.

It is only a few minutes from the airport by cab to the town center (cost: $5). The heart of the city is the Malecón Charles Darwin. The Malecón is one of the city's two main streets and runs along the waterfront. This is where the tour boats and ferries to Santa Cruz leave. In addition, most of the souvenir stores, restaurants, and tour operators selling ferry tickets and diving and snorkeling excursions are located here. The offer here leaves nothing to be desired.

But a walk along the Malecón is worthwhile mainly because of the beaches and the rocks. Because here sea lions, iguanas, crabs, pelicans as well as other sea birds cavort. It is fascinating to see how closely animals and people live together here. For example, it is quite normal for sea lions to make themselves comfortable on a bench or to mingle with the bathers.

Galapagos Island San Cristóbal in numbers:

Area: 557 square kilometers
Maximum altitude: 730 meters
Population: about 6000

#2 Snorkeling with sea lions at Playa Mann beach

At the edge of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, not far from the Interpretation Center, is Playa Mann beach. Here people and sea lions mingle with each other. Whereby the sea lions have clearly won the fight for the benches in the shade. Close encounters with sea lions are nothing unusual. Some of them crawl only a few centimeters next to bathers lying on the beach or look directly into the camera in the water.

For the small or big hunger there is a restaurant as well as a coffee bar with cake. There are also changing rooms and toilets.

Next to the beach, a short wooden path starts to the lighthouse.

Tip: All city beaches are perfect for watching the sunset, as they all face west.

#3 Interpretation Center and Tijeras Hill (Frigatebird Hill)

The Galapagos National Park Interpretation Center is located at the north end of town. Since 1998, it has presented the history of the Galapagos Islands and described the different ecosystems to interested visitors.

From the center also starts a worthwhile trail with several highlights:

• Carola Beach with sea lions
• Darwin statue at the viewpoint
• Snorkeling site
• Viewpoint Tijeras Hill (Frigatebird Hill)

From Frigatebird Hill you have a beautiful view of the turquoise Tijeras Bay with the entrance to the snorkel spot. From here you can also observe flying frigatebirds very well. That's where the name comes from. The Spanish word Tijeras means "scissors". And the frigate birds often have their tail feathers spread so that they look like half-opened scissors.

Behind the viewpoint, Tijeras Hill begins a narrow, about 2 kilometers long path to Playa Baquerizo. If you want to walk this path, you should plan about 45 minutes per direction. Unfortunately, we didn't have time for the hike, so I can't say if it's worth it.

Opening hours: daily from 7:00 to 12:00 and 13:30 to 17:00.
The entrance is free.

#4 La Loberia beach - nursery of the sea lions

The coral sand beach La Loberia is located a bit away from the city and is best reached by cab. Due to its remoteness and vastness, it is less visited. Sea lions, iguanas, and crabs are present here in large numbers. In addition, it seems to be a particularly popular nursery for seals (as the name of the beach suggests). Because at the eastern edge of the beach, several baby sea lions were lounging between the stones. The beach is also very good for snorkeling.

Remember: keep your distance and don't touch the sea lions! Especially the babies. Because as soon as one smells of humans, its mother may reject it.

The best way to reach the following three places is by cab. We rented a cab for 60 dollars for four hours and went to the freshwater lagoon El Junco, to the Galapaguera as well as to Playa Chino.

#5 El Junco Lagoon

El Junco Lagoon, fed by rainwater, is a caldera of an extinct volcano. It is located in the highlands of San Cristóbal at an altitude of 700 meters. The climate and vegetation are completely different up here than on the coast: it is cooler, humid and misty. The plants are green and lush and heavily overgrown with brown lichen. We encountered several finches on the steep uphill path to the crater rim. They were not very shy, often we did not disturb them at all.

From the crater, you should have a great view of most of the island. Unfortunately, it was totally foggy when we were there. The round way, which leads at once around the approximately 300 meters broad lake, we did not run therefore at all.

Are you looking for a place to stay in Puerto Baquerizo Moreno? I can highly recommend the Royal Galapagos Inn. It is simple, centrally located, quiet, and has a super delicious breakfast. The host is very friendly and helpful.

#6 Galapaguera de Cerro Colorado

The turtle hatchery on San Cristóbal is my absolute favorite when it comes to watching giant tortoises. A paved loop trail leads through a naturalized 12-acre enclosure. This is where the turtle's parents live. The young turtles are housed separately according to their age in smaller enclosures. Here they grow up safe from predators until they are released in the north of the island at "Los Galápagos" at the age of five to six years. A small exhibition informs about the turtle population on San Cristóbal and the reintroduction project.

The entrance is free.

Read more about the turtles of the Galapagos and where you can see them in my separate article on my other website.

#7 Puerto Chino Beach

Have you ever seen a green beach? No? Neither had I. Until I visited Puerto Chino. The beach is about 24.5 kilometers away from Puerto Baquerizo Moreno and invites you to stay. The sand is quite fine and the sandy bay is perfect for swimming. For snorkeling, however, the sandy bottom is less interesting. But the ubiquitous sea lions can make every snorkeling tour on Galapagos a unique experience.

At the end of the bay, there is a small viewpoint that you can climb. It is worth it. You have a great view over the beach and you can see some animals from up here. I could see a swimming sea turtle from the rock, which I surely would not have discovered from the beach.

Book Recommendations for Galapagos

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Have you ever been to the Galapagos Island San Cristóbal? How did you like it? Do you have any questions about my article? If yes, then write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love wildlife as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about the King Penguins of Tierra del Fuego or Diving with Sea Lions near La Paz, Mexico.

Der Beitrag Was tun auf der Galapagos-Insel San Cristóbal? erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Iceland. The small town of Vík í Mýdral, in the very south of Iceland, is famous for its black beach Reynisfjara. The offshore rock formation was created long ago out of careless trolls, and the basalt columns are among the favorite motifs of many travelers. In the following article, you will learn where the most beautiful black beaches and rock formations near Vik are, where you can see puffins, and what else there is to discover.

Advertising. The article contains affiliate links*.

Vík í Mýdral - the "Bay at the swampy Valley"

Vík í Mýdral (translated as "Bay by the Swampy Valley") is the southernmost village on the Icelandic mainland and is located 186 kilometers from the capital Reykjavík. The village, which has only 318 inhabitants, is a perfect starting point for tours in the south. In addition to a campground, there are accommodations in various price ranges. It's best to book as early as possible, otherwise, it will be expensive! There is a gas station, a large supermarket, an outdoor outfitter, and of course a souvenir store with Icelandic sweaters and everything you can imagine.

Not far from Vík is the volcano Katla, one of the most dangerous volcanoes in Iceland. When it erupts, the residents of Vík have to evacuate to safety in a very short time. The evacuation is practiced regularly. The elevated wooden church Reyniskirkja (1929) is considered a safe assembly point where all inhabitants should seek shelter from the lava, especially glacier flows.

Tip: You should plan a little more time for the drive to Vik because you will pass the waterfalls Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss on the way.

Reynisdrangar - Trolls or just a great Rock Formation?

Directly in front of the village of Vík, you will find the first black beach. From here you have a beautiful view of the rock needles Reynisdrangar, which rise about 66 meters high from the sea. But since we are in Iceland, these are not normal rocks. According to the legend, two trolls tried to drag a three-master to the shore at night. But trolls are known to be a bit bad at timing: they were surprised by the morning sun and in a split second, they and the ship turned to stone.

TIP: Do you want to experience Iceland to the full? Then you should opt for freedom on four wheels. With a rented campervan, you can explore the natural beauty of Iceland flexibly and at your own pace. Your lunch break? Preferably in an idyllic parking lot with a view. In the evening, head to one of the many well-equipped campsites. Whether you want to tour around Iceland on the Ring Road or seek adventure in the highlands. At Cozy Campers , you can rent both budget vans and highland campers, which you can use to drive the lonely F-roads in the highlands. The latter is already at the top of my wish list for my next trip to Iceland!

Reynisfjall - Tuff mountain with puffins

Reynisfjall is a 340 m high tuff mountain that separates the village of Vík from the beach Reynisfjara. It was formed in the penultimate ice age by a volcanic eruption under the ice. A hiking trail leads from Vík up to a viewpoint at 150 meters above sea level. There and back it is about seven kilometers. Along the way, you can see seabirds during the breeding season, and with luck, puffins.

On the other side of the mountain, at Reynisfjara beach, you will find the famous basalt columns and two caves. The beach is only about three kilometers from Vík as the crow flies. But the mountain Reynisfjall blocks the direct way and must be either hiked or driven around (about 16 kilometers).

Reynisfjara Beach - Basalt Columns, Caves, and Monster Waves

Next to the parking lot, various warning signs attract full attention: sneaker waves can suddenly and unexpectedly wash over the beach here and, in the worst case, cause an unwanted swim in the North Atlantic. This has cost some travelers their lives. Therefore, you should always keep an eye on the water and keep plenty of distance from the water line. Even if the sea looks quite calm and peaceful.

Basalt columns are formed by the slow cooling of the basalt lava. After the solidification of the lava flow and cooling of the surface, the first stress cracks appear here. With increasing cooling, the stress cracks continue to grow downwards and the typical hexagonal columns are formed.

Tip: If you stay overnight in Vík, visit Reynisfjara Beach before the tour buses from Reykjavik arrive. Or in the evening, when most of the visitors are already on their way home.

More about trolls and elves in Iceland...

...can be found in the following books*:

Dyrhólaey Peninsula - the "Door Hill Island

From Cape Dyrhólaey you have a breathtaking view of the south coast of Iceland. You will see the black beaches from above, rock formations, and puffins and you can hike to a historic lighthouse. Especially impressive is the rock arch, which is also called Dyrhólaey. From above, the arch doesn't look that big. But the opening is enough that in 1993 a daredevil pilot flew through the arch.

Cape Dyrhólaey is a volcanic island that was once off the coast. It was formed about 80,000 years ago by a submarine volcanic eruption. Through further volcanic eruptions in the last millennia, the island was connected to the main island by the advancing outwash plains. Today the cape is connected to the mainland and the peninsula is the southernmost part of the Icelandic mainland.

Also the volcanic islands of Hjörleifshöfdi (12 km east of Vík and also a very worthwhile destination) and the rocky cliffs of Ingólfshöfdi were connected to the main island by expanding sandur areas.

What else is there to discover nearby?

If you are in Vík, then besides Reynisfjara beach, Dyrholaey and Reynisdrangar it is worth making a detour to the airplane wreck of Sólheimasandur and a hike to Hjörleifshöfði. From this island mountain, you have a great view over a wide offshore beach and up to the white cap of the Myrdalsjökull.

If you have some money left in your travel budget, I can also recommend a guided tour to the ice cave at Katla volcano and Icelandic horse riding at the black beach of Vík .

Book Recommendations for Iceland

Do you want to know where the journey is going? Then I can recommend this travel guides* to you.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. This does not make the product more expensive for you.

Do you know the south of Iceland and Reynisfjara beach near Vík? How did you like it? Do you have any questions or suggestions for my article? If yes, then write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love peculiar rock formations as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about the "Old Man of Hoy" - a sea stack on the Orkneys or about the Rock Formations at Mono Lake in California.

Der Beitrag Schwarzer Strand Reynisfjara und versteinerte Trolle bei Vík erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Norway. In November, the herring migrate to the sheltered fjords of northern Norway. They are followed by the orcas and the humpback whales. They hunt the herring in the fjords and can be seen in large numbers on some days. One of the best areas to watch orcas at the moment are the waters around Skjervøy. In addition, the small fishing village in the north of Norway is the only place in the world where it is possible to snorkel with orcas.

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links.

What you will read in the following article:

A Guest at the Lunch Table of the Orcas
Orcas, Herrings and Michelin Men/Women
Is Snorkeling with Orcas dangerous?
Winter Whales in Norway on the Polar Front
Regulations when Snorkeling with Orcas
Whale Watching in Norway - When and where?
What else is there in wintry Norway

A Guest at the Lunch Table of the Orcas

The water is deep, dark and cold. Silvery scales swirl around me. Every now and then a dead herring drifts past me, sometimes only half a herring. Everything looks a bit like a battlefield. I lift my head above the surface of the water to get my orientation. In front of me, the dorsal fins of three orcas stick out of the water. They are already quite close. I continue to fin, soon I should be able to see them. I put my head under the water.

First I hear them. Then I see their white bellies and the eye spots light up under water. Slowly the orcas take shape and suddenly I see the bait ball next to me. Then there are more and more orcas. They are everywhere: next to me, under me and some are in the middle of the Bait Ball. While some orcas are circling the bait ball, others are whirling around, swimming a loop and hitting the fish powerfully with their tail fin. They then eat the dead herring. One by one. Right next to me.

What is a bait ball? What is a Bait Ball? A bait ball is formed when small fish swim in a tightly packed spherical formation. It is a last defense measure taken by small schools of fish when threatened by predators. Orcas take advantage of this behavior and herd the herring into bait balls and then specifically strike the fish with their tail fins to kill them.

The three underwater photos of the orcas were taken by Michael Eisenbart. He was one of the five snorkelers in my group. You can find more great underwater photos on his Instagram account @michaels_bubbles and at michaels-bubbles.picfair.com.
Thanks so much again, Michael.

Orcas, Herrings and Michelin Men/Women

It's not so easy when you have so little mobility due to the many layers of insulation in the dry suit. For the orcas I must make a too funny picture. I drift like a Michelin man on the water surface while the elegant animals eat next to me. At some point I realize that we snorkelers are part of the game: the herrings also retreat from us and our fin strokes, we keep the bait ball in shape together with the orcas. Amazing, I still can't believe it. It's like I'm in the middle of a BBC documentary. I can see up to ten orcas at once. There is also a calf.

Sometimes an orca passes me more slowly and inspects me . They don't look at you frontally, but sideways. Since their eyes are on the sides, they can't see well what is directly in front of them. Similar to horses. Some even looked out of the water. Spy hopping is what they call it.

But the school of herring was more interesting than I was and the whales continued their hunt undeterred. It was especially impressive when one of the bulls with his huge dorsal fin passed me by. I'm not quite sure, either my heart was racing at that moment or it stood still while everything flooded in on me: the bait ball, the orcas, the sounds of the orcas, the cold, the darkness and the fish scales swirling through the water like snowflakes . In those minutes I was one of the happiest people in the world.

Is Snorkeling with Orcas dangerous?

When I told my friends and acquaintances about my travel plans to the Winter Whales of Norway, two questions kept coming up:

"Aren't orcas dangerous? What if they want to eat you?"

Each type of orca specializes in the prey available in its particular habitat. Over many generations, this has evolved into very specific feeding habits and hunting techniques . Orcas in Norway eat only herring. However, other orcas, for example in the Pacific, are different: the Southern Residents specialize in salmon, the Transient Orcas in marine mammals, and the Offshore Orcas in sharks. The orcas strongly adhere to their feeding habits. In some cases, they are not anatomically designed to change their diet at all. For example, Southern Residents' teeth and jaws are not strong enough to chew marine mammals. Even when their main food, Chinook salmon, becomes more scarce in their habitat, they do not start eating seals. Rather, they starve to death, which unfortunately is actually already happening.

Read more about the
Orcas in the Salish Sea
and about a
Kayak Tour at the Orcas of the San Juan Islands

"... and the Orca really doesn't eat you?"

The feeding habits aside: Many people believe in a spiritual connection between humans and whales. In some cultures, humans are even descended from whales. Some legends tell of whales coming ashore in human form to seduce young women. There are many more myths surrounding these majestic, clever sea creatures. Is there any truth to it? I don't know, but I find it super exciting and love such stories.

This was one side of the coin. Here comes the other:

Yes, there have been incidents and even deaths by orcas. However, these have happened in aquariums where orcas in captivity have attacked their trainers. No attacks on humans have yet been reported by a wild and free-living orca. You can learn more about this topic in the documentaries Blackfish and Blackfish II (links to YouTube).

The only attacks by wild orcas that I know of occurred in recent years off the Spanish and Portuguese southern coasts on sailboats. In particular, the rudder was attacked. The atypical behavior of the orcas puzzles scientists. Possible explanations are play instinct, learning of hunting strategies, stress or negative experiences with sailboats. More about this can be found on the page Dolphin Protection.

"Never snorkel over the Bait Ball!"

Nevertheless, snorkeling with whales is not completely harmless. The arctic temperatures and the huge wild animals should by no means be underestimated. You can prepare for the temperatures with appropriate equipment. But wild animals remain wild animals. Orcas are extremely agile under water, but who can rule out that the swipe with the tail fin really only hits the herring? And sometimes humpback whales lurk in the depths and steal the herrings from the orcas with their mouths wide open. This all happens very quickly. It's bad luck to end up in the whale's mouth together with the herring. Therefore, our guides told us right at the beginning of the tour: "Never snorkel above the bait ball!

Fortunately, the throat of humpback whales is very narrow. Therefore, they cannot swallow a snorkeler, but rather spit him out again. This actually happened to a snorkeler off South Africa once. Click here to watch the video on YouTube.

"Isn't it cold there in winter? And then in the water as well!"

This question deserves a clear YES. The air temperature during our one-week tour in mid / late November was between 4 and -12° Celsius during the day. The water was between 3 and 4° Celsius. You only go into the water at these temperatures with a dry suit and several layers of insulation underneath. For the head we got a bright orange 10 mm neoprene hood and for the hands thick 3-finger neoprene gloves. Usually the snorkeling equipment including the suit can be rented from the tour provider.

A remaining risk persists.
Minimize it by using good equipment (rental equipment if necessary), practice snorkeling in local waters beforehand, talk to your doctor about snorkeling in cold waters if necessary (not always recommended), be alert underwater, watch your buddies and listen to your guides.

Winter Whales in Norway on the Polar Front

Five days liveaboard on the Polar Front

Five years ago I was already in Tromsø and Andenes to see orcas. But at that time the orcas had already moved further north in mid-February. To increase the probability of seeing them, I decided to go on a whale safari for several days as a "liveaboard" on the Polar Front. So it was possible to follow the orcas to their feeding grounds. To get closer to the orcas or to snorkel with them, we used two Zodiacs.

We saw orcas on four days and humpback whales on four days during the five days aboard the Polar Front. Only one day the weather was so bad that we did not go with the Zodiacs. On two days we were able to accompany the orcas in the Zodiac for a longer time. However, since they swam too fast, there was no possibility to snorkel with the orcas. In fact, this was only possible on one of the five days. Because only when the orcas are hunting or doing their social life, they stay long enough at one place and can be observed while snorkeling.

In the water with Orcas - When one forgets the cold

We went snorkeling twice in a row on that one day. Everything went so fast that I didn't even check the charge of my camera battery (probably my mind was already on the orcas in the water). The first time I had not seen any orcas. But my Go Pro diligently filmed the dark water, scales from the herring, dead herring or parts of herring. Sometimes other snorkelers or the Zodiac. Above water I filmed the snow flurries and sometimes a dorsal fin from an orca. On the second snorkel, my GoPro's battery died. And I was in the middle of the orcas.

Tip: In cold water, the battery of the GoPro lasts much longer when the GoPro is in the underwater housing.

Snorkeling in cold water makes you stiff and without energy. But I noticed that only later. Fortunately, there were helping hands that pulled us snorkelers into the Zodiac later. My hands were icy.

Time to thaw out - back on board

When we were back on board the Polarfont, we were all completely frozen. The breeze on the Zodiac made the -12 °C a bit colder still. The crew helped us take off our gear and we rushed down to our cabins to warm up. My fingertips ached and when I looked in the mirror, I was downright startled: my lips were thickly swollen. I hardly recognized myself. I quickly turned away from the mirror and toward my phone. I wanted to share my joy, but only managed to send a few smilies and whales with my fingers.

Regulations when Snorkeling with Orcas

A dream came true, …

To observe the orcas in their natural habitat was one of my biggest dreams. Our two Zodiacs with six snorkelers each were the only whale watching boats with the orcas that day. Other boats didn't even leave Skiervøy because of bad weather. I did not have the impression that the whales felt disturbed by us. 

... BUT

But of course this can look completely different on other days. In Norway there are no regulations for whale watching or snorkeling with orcas (as of 2022) . It is hard for me to believe that. But how the whale watching is done depends only on the whale watching agency or the boat driver. Anyone can hire a boat in the harbor and be driven out. How successful, whale friendly or safe this is for the snorkelers is then a matter of luck. That's where you come in: research beforehand with which provider you want to make the tour and avoid the too cheap offers.

After a short research on the internet I found some adventurous stories:

• too many boats at one Orca Pod
• Snorkelers jumping from the stern of the boat into the water while the engine is running with the propeller.
• Fishing boats are obstructed by snorkelers getting too close to fishing gear (sometimes to the suction device that sucks the herring from the nets into the boat).
• A boat pulls into the path of migrating orcas to let a snorkeler into the water directly in front of the whales. (We have observed this ourselves).

Meanwhile, there are requirements that whale watching boats and snorkelers must keep a minimum distance from fishing boats.

At the end of 2021, the issue was taken up and discussions about whale watching regulations continued. I hope that sensible rules will be put in place for the benefit of the orcas. At the same time, I also hope that snorkeling with orcas will not be completely banned.

Whale Watching in Norway - When and where?

The orcas follow the schools of herring. They reach the Norwegian fjords at the end of October and stay until about mid-January. However, the exact time period can vary slightly each year.

At the moment the best chances for observation are at Skjervøy. However, this has not always been the case. A few years ago, orcas were frequently seen around Tromsø and Kvaløya (Whale Island), as well as at Andenes in northern Vesterålen. Before that, they were easily seen for a long time much further south on the Tysfjord. However, as the climate has warmed, the herring have moved further and further north. It is possible that they will also eventually move on from Skjervøy.

But although the whales have already moved further north, whale watching tours are still offered from Tromsø*. Since Tromsø is easily accessible via the airport, there are still enough guests here to take the long boat trip from Tromsø to Skjervøy (about 3 hours each way).

It is more relaxing to stay in Skjervøy for a few days and start the whale watching tour from Skjervøy*. Snorkeling tours can be booked at Orca Norway, Lofoten Adventure or at Sea Safari Andenes . However, the accommodations in Skjervøy*are limited. You should book early.

For those who can't get enough and want to maximize their sightings, I recommend a multi-day tour, such as snorkeling with orcas from Waterproof Expeditions on board the Polar Front.

What else is there in wintry Norway

Humpback whales

Besides the orcas, there are also many humpback whales in the winter fjords. They also follow the herring shoals to the north. While I was snorkeling with the orcas in the water, I felt better when there was no humpback whale around. Otherwise, of course, I was always thrilled when I could watch the mighty baleen whales.

See Northern Lights

Number one in northern Norway is, of course, the aurora borealis. On clear days it is very likely that you will see it dancing in the dark night sky. Most of the time it is bright green. Sometimes it can be pink at the edges. With the help of the app "My aurora forecast" you can get an aurora forecast for your current location. This is based on the Kp index, which is a measure of solar activity.

In addition to the aurora borealis, the sunrises and sunsets , as well as the long twilight hours , are particularly beautiful to behold. The low sun makes for great, atmospheric light, which is a real highlight for photographers in particular.

Sea Eagles and Sea Gulls

While the orcas and humpback whales are chasing the herring, sea gulls and sea eagles are attracted. They hope that one or the other herring will fall off for them. So you can often see whales, sea eagles and sea gulls all together at the same time.

Read more about
Tromso in winter, reindeer races in the pedestrian zone and the absolutely worth seeing polar museum.

Book recommendations for Norway

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Have you ever been to Norway in winter? Maybe even snorkeling with orcas? Do you have any questions about my article? If yes, then write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love whales as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about the Beluga Whales of the Solowezki Islands or about a Kayak Tour at the Orcas of the San Juan Islands.

Der Beitrag Am Mittagstisch der Orcas – Schnorcheln mit Orcas in Skjervøy, Norwegen erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Iceland. Vestmannaeyjar was once the scene of a devastating volcanic eruption. On the night of January 23, 1973, on the outskirts of the town of Vestmannaeyjabær, the earth cracked open and lava fountains shot into the black night sky. Eruptions followed for almost six months. Lava and ash destroyed 30% of the city. But new land was also created. Today you can walk on the cooled lava and even climb the volcano Eldfell in the south of Iceland. A museum worth seeing also informs about the devastating eruption.

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links.

What to expect in this Article

Fire Mountain and Fire World - On the Traces of the 1973 volcanic Eruption
Climbing Eldfell Volcano in Iceland
Visit of the Museum Eldheimar "World of Fire"
Walk through the "Lava Forest" Hraunskógur
What happened? The Eruption of Eldfell in 1973 on Heimaey

Fire Mountain and Fire World - On the Traces of the 1973 volcanic Eruption

Climbing Eldfell Volcano in Iceland

The approximately 200 meter high lava cone that was formed during the 1973 eruption has been appropriately named "Eldfell" . Translated, it means "mountain of fire". The currently dormant volcano is located just a few hundred meters outside the town of Vestmannaeyjabær and is one of the islands' most popular attractions. Many visitors to the Westman Islands hike the 1.7 kilometer Eldfell Hike to the summit. From there you have a fantastic view over the lava landscape, the town with the harbor and the surrounding mountains. It is also possible to walk around the crater. Most of the trails are marked with wooden stakes, but there are also unmarked trails.

When I started to climb the volcano Eldfell, the summit was hidden in low clouds - typical for Iceland. This gave the area an especially mystical atmosphere. But it cleared up every now and then and I could finally enjoy the view over the lava field and the city from the summit. But even without a view the summit is impressive, because the rock shines in bright rust red and sulfur yellow even on cloudy days.

You can find trekking boots, hiking poles, gloves and everything else you might need for your tour on the Eldfell volcano in Iceland at Bergzeit.

Visit of the Museum Eldheimar "World of Fire"

In the modern museum Eldheimar - the Pompeii of the North you can learn everything about the volcanic eruption of 1973. Eldheimar means "World of Fire". The heart of the museum is an excavated house that was previously completely buried under the lava of the volcanic eruption. The museum was built around the historic house, so to speak. It opened in 2014.

The historic house inside the museum was located in the former street Gerðisbraut 10, where Gerður Sigurðardóttir and Guðni Ólafsson lived with their three sons. They had to flee headlong from their home on the night of January 23, leaving their belongings behind. Some of them are still scattered around the ruins.

Using the audio guide, I continue through the exhibition. What is remarkable about the museum is that there are no overly long and tedious text panels to read. The museum is very visually oriented with many large-scale pictures, models and films about the dramatic events in 1973, and the audio guide conveys the content. Through the combination of seeing and hearing, I experienced the exhibition very intensively. Especially the sight of the destroyed house and the section about the evacuation touched me very much.

On the upper floor the museum continues with an interesting exhibition about the island of Surtsey. This was created during an earlier volcanic eruption in 1963-1967. From the beginning it has been protected and the natural development and colonization of the island by fauna and flora is documented. It is even included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. The tour through the exhibition finally ends in a small museum café.

Walk through the "Lava Forest" Hraunskógur

Hiking trails now lead across a bizarre lava landscape where there was still sea before 1973. In another 10 years, a forest may grow here. Hraunskógur is a 28-hectare reforestation area. Every year, volunteers and employees of the municipality plant about 4,000 tree cuttings (willows, spruces, poplars, elms). Numerous walking paths have also been created in the lava forest, leading over the rugged block lava covered with moss and lupines. It's a little bit like a labyrinth, but you can't seriously get lost here. On the contrary - it's really fun to get lost here.

I didn't get to see quite as much of the forest on my walk. But even without tall trees, this rugged lava landscape quickly became my favorite place on Heimaey. Even if it feels a bit strange to walk here. Because houses and streets are buried under the lava layer, which is on average 40 meters thick.

Finally, a bit of history:

What happened? The Eruption of Eldfell in 1973 on Heimaey

Lava Fountains and Ash Fall

The eruption was unexpected. At night, at 1:55 a.m. on January 23, 1973, the earth cracked open on the outskirts of the town. The fissure, about 300 meters long, quickly grew to about 1,600 meters. Lava fountains shot up to 150 meters into the night sky from 30 to 40 craters. Lava flows overflowed the eastern end of the city and ash fell on the entire island. The event shook not only the Icelanders. It was broadcast on television all over the world.

Why did no one foresee the eruption? There had been a series of weak earthquakes in the days before. Shortly before the eruption, they even reached 2.7 on the Richter scale, but that's probably not unusual at the edges of lithospheric plates. Besides, there has been no volcanic activity here for 5,000 years.

Evacuation of the Inhabitants

Thanks to a storm the day before, the entire fishing fleet of Heimaey was in port. Thus, the evacuation of the islanders could start immediately. Already half an hour after the beginning of the eruption, the first boat left the harbor. Within six hours, all 5,300 inhabitants were safe. Only a few stayed behind to perform urgent tasks or rescue valuables from their homes. One of these tasks was to slaughter the cattle. Because the grass was covered with ash, there was nothing left to eat on the island.

Volcanic eruptions also produce toxic fumes. These are heavier than air and collect in dips. A man died after inhaling such fumes in the basement of the pharmacy. Several people were injured by the gases.

Cooling the Lava

The Westman Islands live from fishing. The port of Vestmannaeyjabær is even the most important fishing port in all of Iceland and, so to speak, the lifeline of the Westman Islands. Now the lava flow was flowing incessantly towards the harbor and threatened to close it. This would have been a disaster. Firefighters began to cool the edges of the glowing lava with seawater, thus slowing it down. When the first attempts already showed positive results, bigger guns were brought in: The ship Sandey pumped 400 l/s onto the lava. In addition, water pipes were laid on the lava crust in daring actions. In the end, 32 converted oil pumps from America were used, capable of pumping 1,000 l/s. In total, about 6.2 million tons of seawater were pumped onto the lava for cooling. With success: the harbor entrance remained free and is now even better protected by the new lava walls, which are up to 40 m high.

Destruction and Formation of new Land

At the beginning of the eruptions, houses near the fissure were destroyed by lava or pyroclastics. Despite the efforts of many helpers to shovel the fallen ash from the roofs of houses, many collapsed under the weight. Others were buried beneath the advancing lava or ignited by lava bombs. It was not until early February that the precipitation of pyroclastics subsided. However, persistent lava flows continued to cause destruction. In the end, an average 40-meter-thick layer of lava covered parts of the city. In some places, the layer was even up to 100 meters thick.

Only after about six months, on July 3, 1973, the eruptions were over. In total, 60% of the houses on Heimaey were damaged in the eruption. A little more than half could be saved. But about 400 houses were completely destroyed. In addition, the power plant and a fish processing factory were destroyed, as well as submarine supply lines from the main island.

The volcanic eruption created the Eldfell cinder cone, which is about 200 meters high. In addition, the area of the island grew by about 2.0 square kilometers.

Cleanup

Cleanup began immediately after the end of the eruption in July 1973. It was a mammoth task to clear the houses and roads and make the island habitable again. After a year, about 50% of the former inhabitants had returned to the island, and by March 1975, 80%. Today, about 4,500 people live on Heimaey, 800 fewer than before the Eldfell eruption.

The heat stored under the lava is used for energy and hot water production, and the pyroclastics are used as building material. Land was filled up with it in the sea, on which 200 houses were built.

Book Recommendations for Iceland

Do you want to know where the journey is going? Then I can recommend this travel guides* to you.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. This does not make the product more expensive for you.

Guided Tours in Iceland

You don't feel like wandering around on your own and would rather join a guided tour in Iceland? Nothing could be easier. If you book an excursion via the following affiliate links, you will support Wanderlust Motifs with a small commission. The tour will not be more expensive for you. Merci!

Do you know the volcano Eldfell on the Westman Islands in Iceland? How did you like it there? Do you have any questions or suggestions to my article? If yes, then write me a comment! Eldfell auf den Westmännerinseln in Island? Wie hat es euch dort gefallen? Habt ihr noch Fragen oder Anregungen zu meinem Artikel? Wenn ja, dann schreibt mir doch einen Kommentar!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love the Scandinavian countries as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about the Kayak Tour in the Swedish Archipelago or a Trekking Tour to the Greenlandic Ice Sheet.

Der Beitrag Pompeji von Island – Ausflug zum Vulkan Eldfell der Westmännerinseln erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Galapagos, Isla Isabela, Ecuador. Los Tuneles is considered one of the highlights of Galapagos Island Isabela. At almost every corner in Puerto Villamil you can book snorkeling tours to Los Tuneles and the neighboring Cabo Rosa. Even in the program of the safari ships a stop at Los Tuneles is a fixed component. What is it? Is the place really that beautiful or just over-advertised and overcrowded? Read on and learn more about this bizarre lava landscape and its inhabitants.

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links.

Boat ride through the surreal Lava Landscape Los Tuneles

After about 45 minutes of travel, our boat slows down. We are just before Los Tuneles. The water becomes shallower and shimmers turquoise. It is crystal clear. Bizarrely shaped lava formations emerge from the water to the right and left. Some are completely bare, others are overgrown with candelabra cacti. Our captain skillfully steers the boat through the labyrinth. These unusual channels were formed from lava tunnels that collapsed in on themselves. It soon becomes clear why this place is called "Los Tuneles". After a while, we go alongside another excursion boat and go ashore.

Tip: The boat ride to Los Tuneles takes about 45 minutes. You'll have the best view if you sit on the starboard side.

Hiking over the Lava Islands of Los Tuneles

As expected, we are not the only excursion boat landing here. But the visitor groups spread out so that we hardly notice anything of the other groups.

The lava flows have produced wild formations at Los Tuneles. Former lava tunnels have collapsed and parts of them remained as natural bridges. They connect the small islets, which are very rugged and have many small caves. The lava is partly covered with lichen, in some places, it is covered with white bird droppings. There are the nests of the blue-footed boobies. In one nest there is even a young bird hidden. It can't fly yet and doesn't have blue feet. They turn blue only after about a year.

Why does the blue-footed booby have blue feet?

The blue feet of the boobies are related to their diet. It is caused by pigments called carotenoids. These are in the fish that the boobies eat. At courtship time, the male struts around in front of the females, conspicuously displaying his feet. The bluer the feet, the more successful the males are with females. This is because the intense color indicates well-fed and healthy mates.

Snorkeling at Cabo Rosa - Sea Turtles, Seahorses, and Sharks

We continue to Cabo Rosa for snorkeling. The water is quite fresh now in January with about 22 degrees. I was glad that we were equipped with shorties by the Isabela Divecenter.

Right at the beginning of our snorkeling tour, a sea turtle welcomes us. With slow flipper strokes, it passes us by. Most of the snorkelers in my group, on the other hand, move less elegantly underwater and soon the water is murky from the swirling sediment. We continue, passing mangrove roots and rocks. Finally, it's time to dive down and I can take a look into a rock cave where some whitetip reef sharks are taking their siesta. During the day they like to rest on the bottom in caves, lava tunnels, or under natural bridges.

Besides the sea turtles, the seahorse, and the sharks, we were able to see much other fish as well as the red cliff crabs typical for Galapagos. By the way, the smaller, dark crabs are not another species, but the young of the red crabs.

Conclusion: Is a visit to Los Tuneles and Cabo Rosa in Galapagos worthwhile?

The landscape of Los Tuneles is uniquely beautiful, and the wildlife is varied and impressive. Therefore, I can recommend the tour to Los Tuneles to everyone who comes to the Galapagos Island Isabella. However, you can see the place underwater that here every day hordes of tourists plow up the water. The swirled-up suspended matter has settled on the vegetation and many a surface underwater is grazed or trodden flat.

What I unfortunately missed was an announcement from our guide about how we should behave underwater in a nature-friendly way. That one should not chase sea turtles and that one should not touch them does not seem to be self-evident.

To show proper respect to the place and the animals and plants living here, do not stand on the vegetation and do not touch anything. Please be careful not to stir up sediment with your fins. This is easily done by moving your fins with the so-called Frog Kick. This is very similar to the normal leg kick in normal swimming.

What is the difference between the snorkeling site Las Tintoteras, right in front of the harbor of Isla Isabela? At Los Tuneles you have the more beautiful scenery above and below the water and the water is also a bit warmer. However, at Las Tintoteras you can see the rare Galapagos penguins and you have a shorter approach. White tip reef sharks and sea turtles are present at both snorkeling sites. And both have an equal number of tour groups.

Book Recommendations for Galapagos

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

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Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love wildlife as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about the King Penguins of Tierra del Fuego or Diving with Sea Lions near La Paz, Mexico.

Der Beitrag Los Tuneles und Cabo Rosa: Schnorcheln an den Lavatunneln von Galapagos erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.