Anyone who is out and about—whether with a backpack or snowshoes, in the mountains or in the Black Forest—has a responsibility. For themselves, for others, and for what happens if something happens. The idea that “someone will help” is dangerous. The following text on outdoor first aid is aimed at anyone who ventures off the beaten track, at people who need to think and act clearly even when the rain has been pouring down for hours, when radio contact has been lost, and when things suddenly turn serious.

This text, written by Christoph Maretzek, is no ordinary outdoor first aid guide. It is the condensed experience of 45 years in the field – raw, honest, unvarnished. For everyone who goes out there. For everyone who wants to come home. Christoph is the founder of Guide Academy Europe, where I trained as a trekking and wilderness guide. As a long-time mountain infantry instructor, experienced solo and winter trekker, and carpenter, he has witnessed serious accidents and has often been able to help. Last late summer, we were back on tour together in Vindelfjäll, Sweden, and as always, health on tour, wilderness first aid, and prevention were an important part of our preparation. Rightly so, as a near-accident in the mountains in rain and stormy weather impressively demonstrated.

In cooperation with and written by Christoph Maretzek, Guide Academy Europe..

When something happens, you need to know what to do

If you want to go on a tour, whether by bike, ski, or on foot, with or without a guide, in summer or winter, in the mountains, on the water, or in the forest, there is always a lot to consider. But one question always arises, for everyone and on all occasions:

What is the most important Thing Outdoors?

The answer is quite clear: How can I ensure that I can help myself and others immediately and effectively at any time, even in serious situations? Especially when I have to wait for help to arrive... sometimes for days.

Between Theory and Reality: Outdoor First Aid Courses

Real outdoor first aid begins when you have to wait hours or days for help—and when you have to be able to act on your own.

This year's accident figures give pause for thought. Those who offer training and workshops in particular are called upon to take these figures into account and respond to them. This is because many so-called outdoor first aid courses do not actually reflect outdoor situations (further) off the beaten track, but rather first aid relatively close to paths and the rescue chain. It therefore makes sense to adapt to the current realities each year and to train and practice for precisely those areas where no one can help after an hour.

The trekking guide course in mid-July 2025 and the wilderness first aid course in Baden-Baden in May 2025, which was held for Arctic travelers, among others, once again went well and without any real emergencies. We practiced some new situations and realigned the course with developments in nature and society. This is because changing natural environments produces new dangers.

Reality instead of wishful Thinking

In reality, no YouTube video helps. No survival show. No app. What counts is what you have in your head and in your backpack—and what you can recall under stress.

To start with, a simple note: a few statements (based on many years of experience) may upset or annoy sensitive souls or those who believe that the fire department, forest rangers, and mountain rescue services are responsible for their well-being on tour (rather than themselves, first and foremost). Therefore, read on at your own risk...😊.

The lines are simply intended to make almost half a century of knowledge available to everyone outside of guide training courses and workshops. Ultimately, it is up to each individual to decide what to make of it. And whether to take advantage of offers or not. And since the writer, in his life as a long-time mountain infantry trainer/platoon leader and solo trekker, winter hiker in northern Sweden, Alaska paddler, and carpenter, has almost bitten the dust a few times, taken enough hits that could have been avoided, and experienced too many deaths along the way, there are now lines instead of bandages.

The fact is: when you go out there, you are on your own! Those who take others with them are responsible first and foremost for them and for themselves. 45 years outdoors have taught the writer that very often (far too often) there is nothing others can do for me if I cannot take care of myself during the first hour after an accident (the so-called golden hour) when I am seriously injured or ill. Then the helpers may arrive too late. It's as simple as that.

Take Responsibility for yourself

Mountain rescue is the icing on the cake...not the cake itself! Everyone either has that in their backpack or left it at home. Forests, water, and mountains are dangerous in themselves and often pose an obstacle to quick and safe access to the scene of an accident. Not thinking about this BEFORE the tour, not preparing, not practicing intensively again, and not equipping yourself with the appropriate material is like flying with unsecured wings. Only fools or people who are irresponsible towards themselves do that.

Or to put it more bluntly:

If you're not willing to prepare yourself properly, to learn and practice, to take care of yourself continuously, constantly, and comprehensively every second... what are you doing out there, assuming that someone will come to your rescue if you mess up? Everyone can answer that question for themselves.

How can you recognize experienced, good, and prudent trekkers, solo skiers, water sports enthusiasts, and mountaineers/mountain hikers? Quite simply: by the fact that they have grown old.

Attention and Respect for Nature are also First Aid

In addition to skill, knowledge, equipment, determination, and fitness, caution, foresight, and prudence are also important..

Many accidents are simply avoidable if you concentrate on what you are doing, listen to your gut feeling, and keep your eyes and ears open. This is normal for old soldiers, because it can ensure survival in difficult situations.

No one has to wait until disaster strikes; you can take precautions beforehand. So what's wrong with adopting the basic attitude of “I'm actively taking care” as a civilian and taking preventive measures for yourself? It's normal for police and firefighters, forest rangers, construction workers, and machine operators, because they are constantly exposed to danger. Unfortunately, very few people realize that when they go out there, they could end up lying there. They usually put on their backpacks without any training, have little experience, see YouTube as an educational channel, and view all the superheroes on ridiculous survival shows as reality. Perhaps these simple, honest lines will inspire you to do more (e.g., take a realistic course, get some training for yourself).

In addition, there is respect for the forces of nature, the recognition that you are responsible for yourself first and foremost, and respect for the constant danger outside: because there are no mountains without danger, no forests without danger, and no canoeing waters without danger. If you don't take care out there, the constant danger can quickly turn into an acute (and often avoidable!) threat. However, with a little luck, planning, skill, equipment, etc., you already have a good chance of success. This includes noting/making a note of places with cell phone reception along the way.

However, plans often have to be adapted quickly and frequently – failing to do so is a common cause of problems on various tours due to time pressure on vacation, overly tight planning windows without buffer days, and a simple lack of willingness to reposition oneself. In the end, nature always makes the rules. Your own condition and abilities must match what you have in mind, what you can do, and what you should avoid. Then you can come back next year and start the tour again. Ultimately, it's that simple. Because if just one thing is missing, if you hesitate too long, if you didn't take care of it beforehand, then it's often on the edge or already over the edge. And it's always just that one second.

Guide Training at the Guide Academy Europe

A Look behind the Scenes

Anyone who wants to lead others off the beaten track and away from rescue facilities must be able to help. From a standing position, still looking at the injured person, who is already silent or writhing on the ground. In all modules, training is proportionate and always surprising, even at breakfast if necessary. Because accidents don't work in shifts, there are no punch cards, and they don't announce themselves. From one moment to the next, if something goes wrong with the stove, not only can a face be changed forever, but simply the life of the whole family behind it. Rare, but always the case. The spurting bleeding because a tool has once again hit the “right” spot, or the bright shin bone that suddenly sticks out. No one has a guarantee, and therefore everyone must be able to do what is needed.

A wonderful training weekend with this year's trekking guide class in July 2025 showed that even simple exercises with unexpected situations can quickly cause you to falter. You're not a paramedic or a doctor. Damn, what was that about snake bites again? Damn it, what were the signs of shock again, and how do I distinguish the dangers of heat exhaustion from sunstroke? And so much more that suddenly becomes an issue. Often without any warning.

Practice makes you a better Rescuer

The weekend was packed with theory, focusing on details that come from a lifetime of experience out in the field and can't be found in any manual. Just like soldiers far away in the field, trekkers can suddenly find themselves in a nearly hopeless situation and have to react. As an experienced solo trekker, I've thought a few times: “That's it, I'm done.”

Sometimes with luck, sometimes with even more luck, and sometimes with unconditional quick reactions, things have gone well so far. The 12 deaths and serious injuries I have witnessed while on duty and on tours in the field have made me think. Twice, I was able to help in time. Things can often get rough out there, and sometimes you have to improvise. However, the basic rules of hygiene etc., apply there just as they do in the valley at the doctor's. But you don't always have that luxury. You don't have the professional equipment. Some of this can be compensated for with practice. But not everything. That makes the exercises all the more important!

Exercises – we started with bandaging. That sounds trivial, but the exercises (also blindfolded, behind your back, in the dark, with your weaker hand) showed that this important knowledge about proper wound care to prevent infections leading to sepsis or bleeding to death is anything but trivial! Bleeding to death is still one of the leading causes of death after serious accidents. We can do something about this, as well as the 10,000 fatal cases of sepsis resulting from an infected, possibly very small wound. But we need to know how and practice again and again. Just like paramedics. Because we are our own paramedics.

But under the following hypothetical scenario, it's a completely different story: we are with a group or alone, in cold, wet, windy weather, without a phone connection, somewhere in the Swedish mountains, at least six hours' walk from the nearest hut. Although we are on a well-travelled long-distance hiking trail, the conditions make it feel like we are on the far side of the moon! This is a completely normal situation on any hike there. No one can come to your aid quickly. It's that simple. Heavy bleeding, an abscessed tooth, an open fracture, even an infection/sepsis (unfortunately not uncommon) from a simple, “trivial” mosquito bite or a dog bite, because a hiker with a dog does not follow the leash rules. There are so many things that can happen. And as surprising as it may sound, well over 95% of all outdoor activities go well, but if an accident does occur, it can be serious, even fatal.

Starting in 2026, first aid training at Guide Academy Europe (GAE) will become more compact and remain in very small groups. The core topics will be: EH Outdoor Solo, EH Outdoor Trekking/Mountain, EH Outdoor Wilderness, EH Outdoor Compact. Special courses may also be available on request. The courses are currently in the final stages of development and description and will be ready by the beginning of the year.

An Example from the Kungsleden Long-Distance Trail

How much worse it was when I think of the Dutchman from last year who, with untreated, festering, open, and bleeding blisters, wanted to take just one day off to recover, as he said. No possibility of self-sufficiency due to lack of equipment (too heavy!!) and sitting in a small village at the end of the road in front of the Swedish fells. The next stages south would have taken him through deserted areas for days, with only chance encounters with other hikers, and very long stages between huts. Stoic, somehow disinterested, and apparently unaware of what an infection could quickly do to him – kill him. He had never been on such a hike before and had been inspired by a well-known “survival show” from Germany. Without further ado.

There was nothing left to do but intervene and talk him out of it. He finally let himself be persuaded and helped, and took the bus to the nearest hospital. I received a text message from him in late fall, thanking me. The doctor, but even more so the old nurse who examined him first, also set him straight. Intervening may have saved his life.

More on the topic of providing first aid for blisters can be found on the Guide Academy Europe website.

A Christian duty and a matter of honor. But unfortunately not for everyone. So many people are afraid to help, fearing they will be sued. Nonsense and bullshit. It's that simple. Many believe that a phone call is enough – far from it. You have to do what is reasonable. In addition, there is the applicable state law. Who cares about the local rules before departure? In Sweden, according to the official figures for 2024, first aid is provided in over 65% of cases! In our country, the figure is far below that; sad, shameful, and disgusting. Because everyone needs help at some point.

What matters on Tour

In northern Sweden, Scotland, Iceland, etc., it's not like in the Alps, where, on the one hand, the mountain rescue service makes exciting films about themselves and their work, and on the other hand, people are increasingly setting off and, like this year, dropping like flies from the mountains. Help is not always available, or quick, or even available at all. Anyone who is unfamiliar with the country's rescue services is flying completely blind. The figures are alarming. So are the figures for drownings in this country. It's the same in all areas – and there's no point in beating around the bush: no (sufficient) knowledge, too little ability to cope with stress, overconfidence, showing off, lack of experience, no (sufficient) knowledge of the weather, unprepared, poorly trained, incorrect or missing basic equipment, inability to use it under stress, no maps, no adequate first aid kit, no adequate first aid knowledge. Above all, blind trust in apps and “I have a phone.” As if it could bandage the deep leg wound after a failed axe blow, fix the dislocated shoulder, cleanly treat the open fracture, or solve one of the frequent internal medical problems.

Note: If you only have a phone, it's your own fault if something goes wrong. It's always worth taking care of things in advance: yourself, your equipment, and any conceivable emergencies. An unpleasant but unfortunately all too often (avoidable) true statement. Nobody likes to hear that. But that's the way it is. And yet help is provided. And hopefully, then it will be clear to everyone how expensive such a rescue can be. It's always worth taking care of things BEFOREHAND.

As sorry as everyone is for the dead and maimed...the mountain rescuers, who volunteer their time, struggle and all too often have to abandon their efforts because it is a fundamental principle not to put themselves at undue risk during a rescue operation. A cell phone full of pictures but with no battery, and a battery-draining “orientation app” will then finish off the cold cell phone battery in a matter of seconds, taking away the accident victim's last chance. Then, unfortunately, they will bleed to death, freeze to death, or die of shock after the fall. Unfortunately, this happens time and time again.

A well-equipped first aid kit (not just two old bandages and a plaster!), training, practice, and, if necessary, a refresher course at home before the tour could have tipped the scales in the event of an accident. The accident victim would have gained valuable time and could have easily extended his own “golden hour,” staying alive and avoiding further damage. But instead, mountain rescuers too often arrive at the scene and find, if the injured person has remained where they were able to communicate their location (if they were able to orient themselves), only a miserable corpse. Someone who knew that it would be the end if they were unlucky. And who may only be found by chance months, sometimes years later. Does it really have to be this way? No. Quite simply.

Review of a Training Weekend

Since such a weekend is short, we practiced some basic elements here; the mountain/cold-specific topics will then be taught and practiced in the fall during the mountain module. We already covered the basics in the 10-day spring course of the 2025 compact course (with three of four possible participants) and then kept the training going over the months with accident reports from the internet, which we worked through by asking questions.

Knowledge, Skills, Decision-making – an Overview of the Training Topics

Early situation recognition is often neglected. Far too often, the frightened helper rushes to the injured person too quickly without pausing for a moment; therefore, take a deep breath and look around briefly. Anyone who approaches an accident in this way can take a close look as they approach and, if necessary, gain valuable time for the injured person:

• Do I see a large pool of blood?
• Is a bone sticking out?
• Is a limb noticeably twisted?
• Are the parties involved in the accident (animals, weather, trees, tools, people, equipment, cars, etc.) clearly visible to everyone?
• How is the person behaving?
• Are helpers already at work?
• What dangers do I need to keep an eye on?
• Am I putting myself at risk?
• What details are apparent at first glance?
• What is my immediate impression of the situation?

Assessing the situation is my responsibility for my own safety. I may not even be able to help the injured person until I have ensured that it is safe for all helpers to approach, or until I have guided my group to safety. So don't rush in blindly, and don't let others rush in blindly either. It doesn't help if someone else needs to be treated at the same time... And as bad as it is, I may have to accept that I can't get the last five meters to the injured person and can only talk to them while they whimper silently in front of my eyes, scream in real pain, continue to put themselves in danger, or simply bleed to death. Or I can only throw first aid supplies to them. Nasty, but a possible reality.

The following always applies: sufficient self-protection against (too) quick rescue attempts!

Exercises that make a Difference

Other topics we cover in the training course include:

• Principles and options for actively preventing accidents. Without prevention and care, I expose myself to danger.
• The tour first aid kit – without it, you are completely exposed.
• The little booklet “First Aid in the Mountains” by experienced expedition doctor Walter Treibel, with 50 years of experience, is worth its weight in gold!
• Problems with treating multiple people – not everyone may make it.
• Problems with multiple injuries – “Treat first what kills first.”
• Splinting and immobilization with SAM splints or improvised splints – there's always something you can do!
• Principles of safe wound care. Avoiding sepsis is one of the most important issues outdoors. One of the participants from the weekend had just narrowly survived sepsis! Because sepsis can kill in a short time without quick help.
• Wound care over several days. Anyone who still has to walk or wait for help must also take proper care of any wounds.
• Treatment of objects stuck in the body – principles and special considerations far away from trails and aid stations.
• Lifting and picking up with several people.
• Working as a team – untrained and inexperienced helpers mean well. But someone has to be in charge and, if necessary, take the lead on their own initiative.
• Exercises in the dark. At night or in poor visibility, outside and exposed to the weather, it is even more difficult.
• Dealing with animal bites – climate change means you have to think twice before stepping into or reaching into any bush.
• Hypothermia – if left untreated, it kills.
• Keeping warm – injured people need their warmth.
• Get them out of the wind and out of the wet – both can be real killers.
• Binding and compression – unlike in road traffic, it is often necessary to resort to extreme measures when far off the beaten track. Because blood that is lost is gone forever. Losing more than a liter can be life-threatening – at the latest.
• Shock treatment – worsening shock can be fatal.
• The triangular bandage – an old friend and faithful helper for hikers.
• Scalding and burns – this is often the worst-case scenario.
• Muscular injuries – a society that has become comfortable or simply untrained is quite susceptible to this. This is especially true as the age of mountain hikers etc. continues to rise.
• Dental problems – the Romans said: Toothache is the little brother of death. Having to pull your own tooth is no fun (personal experience in 2009).
• Dealing with stress and worries – if you want to help, you will be stressed if you are not trained.
• Leading the group. It's always about language, appearance, and approach.
• Dealing with onlookers – without ending up in court afterwards.
• EH Solo – Help yourself, then God will help you.
• Limits of backpack capacity – Where do our possibilities end?
• Alerting – Providing important information fluently and effectively.
• Principles of decision-making – Which parameters influence me?
• Care – What can I do, what does the accident victim need?

Lesson 1: Story from the Forest Cabin

Exciting...and straight out of real life:

It's July 22, 2025, 10:25 a.m., and I'm sitting in a small cabin on a stormy, rainy day, writing instead of doing my work for the forestry office (Cleaning up the forest in this weather, alone in a remote area with no cell service???? No way!). The same applies to me: I have to be careful, because no one is coming by today, and there is no phone! Depending on the route, the way to the village is 5-7 km of forest trails. The forest restaurant above is closed today. And then, while I'm concentrating on my writing topic, the following happens to me in real life:

Next to the chair, shoes are scattered wildly across the room, and fresh vegetable soup is simmering on the spirit stove. I stand up, turn to the right, don't look down as I usually do, stumble over the shoes, stretch out, and just manage to catch myself. My arms brush past the stove with the boiling broth and hit the shelf. Five centimeters further to the right, and I would have scalded my arm and everything below my waist! Boiling hot! Jackpot in the idiot lottery! It couldn't be worse out here on my own. Because with a scalded arm (guaranteed third degree), I can't drive a car myself anymore. And why? Just one second of inattention, not clearing stuff out of the way, and breaking all the rules that I mercilessly drill into the guide trainees until they become habit. Damn! But that's only human.

Therefore: caution, foresight, prudence... even when staying in a hut! Tripping hazards may be small. Shoes left lying around in the room mean: it's your own fault.

Always take your well-stocked, refreshed, and correctly filled first aid kit with you on tour! No matter how often it has gone well in the past. One day, you will need it unexpectedly, often from one second to the next. For yourself or someone else. All it takes is one step to stumble, one fainting spell, one deep cut, one small inflammation. One blown-out stove, one fallen branch, one dog or mouse bite, etc.

Lesson learned 2: A Story from the Field

Things get tight in the next side valley, where radio waves cannot propagate due to the topography, as no masts were allowed to be built in the extensive forest area or because loud public opposition claimed that the “ugly masts on the surrounding hills would have spoiled the beautiful landscape.” After a stupid fall while jogging on a summer evening, you could end up lying there with broken bones. There is no one around, because apart from the careless runner, no one is outside with the approaching thunderstorm! The unfamiliar screamer's cries quickly turn into pitiful whimpers, 6 km away from the car, in the middle of a forest road on Sunday evening. No forestry office car, no cyclist, no hunter – they have all been smart and are sitting by the warm stove at home.

The accident victim is lying there, wearing only his thin running shorts and an even thinner jacket. A running vest with a piece of chewing gum and a small bottle of water, an almost empty cell phone with no reception, so no emergency call. All this on a steep slope, surrounded by dense forest, on a sunken path. That was it for this person. The thunderstorm soaks him, the ground cools down abruptly, the injury—an open tibia fracture with tissue and vascular injuries—bleeds from the wound and the bone, and so one thing leads to another:

• Blood loss with shock, which, if left unchecked, will prove fatal.
• Similarly, the onset and progression of hypothermia (which further reduces the blood's ability to clot!) takes full effect.
• No bandages at hand, no pressure bandage, pressing down on your own femoral artery is not feasible.

It doesn't look good at all. Only a few kilometers from Bad Reichenhall on a wide hiking trail. The poor devil doesn't know about the pressure points on the back of the knee, in the popliteal fossa. And even if he did and he managed, despite the excruciating pain, to apply pressure and slow or even stop the bleeding (very unlikely!), he would have to figure out how to bandage himself with nothing. The T-shirt is the only thing he has, but the developing hypothermia is clouding his mind, and so it doesn't occur to him to tear his running vest into strips (our teeth can do a lot!).

It's Saturday evening. Severe weather is forecast for Sunday. The accident victim was on the best path to simply perishing. In 2007, in the Berchtesgadener Land region, he was simply lucky that another reckless bird, who was running quickly to the safety of his car during a raging thunderstorm, stumbled over the accident victim, who was a soldier in the mountain troops, well-trained and immediately sprang into action. He also had bandages in his jacket (the familiar little old Bundeswehr packet) and knew what he was doing. Medically as well as on the trails. He drove his car over, picked up the injured man, and took him to the nearest hospital.

No... it wasn't the writer himself, but it could have been. In traffic, he would probably have called for help and stayed until the rescue services arrived. There, however, the helper decided to react differently. Maybe the paramedics are now shouting “Help, dangerous” – sure. But out there, away from the rescue chain, things very quickly turn out differently than under “normal conditions.”

Conclusion: If you go out, you have to know what you're doing

And so we come to the end and realize:

• If you go out, you have to know what you're doing, have what you need, and take action.
• If you need help, you have to help yourself first.
• If you have something, you're better off than someone who needs a pharmacy.
• Doing nothing is always wrong.

In summary, it can be said that ONLY those who are absolutely familiar with and observe the pillars of outdoor first aid mentioned in the text are really doing everything they can. Then they add a dose of good luck, choose reliable companions, check in, eat well, don't drink alcohol, don't take drugs, and get enough sleep. If they then thoroughly consider all of the above aspects and pause to reflect from time to time, they will be able to sit by the stove as an old codger and tell their grandchildren about their adventurous hikes or one day write and publish their tour diary.

I already have the title for my tour diary, without being really old and without having grandchildren:

“A (long) Life in Boots”

And now, I wish you all enjoyable trips, reliable companions, and a safe return home. And don't be lazy, folks. Take care and know what to do if someone suddenly sees the world from a horizontal perspective and turns pale around the nose.

Happy Trails!

Recommendations for further Reading

Want to know more about health and safety on tour? Then take a look at my articles Poisonous Animals in Germany: What you need to know and Staying healthy on a Trekking Tour: Preparation, Behavior and First Measures in the Event of Illness .

Der Beitrag Outdoor-Erste-Hilfe: Draußen hilft nur, was du kannst erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Taking photos while traveling can sometimes be a challenge. The hand luggage on the plane weighs almost as much as the checked luggage. On trekking tours, there are quickly a few kilos too many in the rucksack, and the weather protection for the equipment becomes an essential component depending on the destination. If it were just rain and snow, but what can you do when it's not just raining cats and mice, but when the humidity is so high during photography that nothing dries out and when salt water is omnipresent?

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links.

Experiences photographing during a Kayak Tour in Indonesia

I went on a 10-day sea kayaking tour in Indonesia at the turn of the year 2024/25. Our small group was traveling in the beautiful island archipelago of Misool, where we first paddled from island to island and later also in the jungle. Our accommodation was stilt huts over the water or tents on the beach, or in the jungle. It was around 30°C, it rained cats and dogs every afternoon, and our hands were always wet and swollen from the salt or rainwater. If they weren't wet, they were sticky from sun cream, insect repellent, and sweat. Once they were soaked, they hardly dried at all. The humidity reached its peak in the jungle, where it hung in the air in the form of misty clouds. Especially in the dark, you could see the fine droplets in the light of the flashlight.

I had my Sony Alpha with two lenses with me as well as a small compact Sony RX100 and a waterproof GoPro. You can find out how I protected my photo equipment from the humidity during the kayak tour in this article. I'll also give you practical tips on how to capture your tropical motifs in the changing light conditions.

What happens to the Camera in high Humidity?

You may be familiar with the situation where your lens fogs up when you take a photo in the snow and then go out into the warm. In this case, the camera is colder than the dew point of the water in the warm interior. As a result, the humidity in the warm air will condense on the cold camera after the photo has been taken. If you now step out of a cool, air-conditioned room into the humid, warm jungle, exactly the same thing happens, only the other way round. The camera fogs up until it has adapted to the warm ambient temperature. By then, however, a lot of moisture has already accumulated inside the equipment.

To avoid this, it is best to pack the camera in a Ziploc bag and wait until it has reached the ambient temperature. Then fogging due to humidity is no longer a problem, and you don't have to wait to take pictures.

On the other hand, if a camera has already accumulated moisture, then longer storage in an air-conditioned room is advantageous. The air conditioning dries the air as it cools, allowing moisture to escape from the camera.

Here's how to do it: Avoid Condensation on the Camera and Lens

• Get the camera used to the temperature: After entering the jungle, leave the camera switched off in the bag so that it slowly adapts to the outside air.
• Don't switch between air conditioning and outside : Avoid abrupt temperature changes.
• Drying : After the tour, leave the camera and lenses to dry in a well-ventilated room / in the sun.

Protecting the Camera Equipment in high Humidity and Rain

If the camera gets a few raindrops under normal conditions, it's no big deal. The drops will dry quickly. However, if this happens when photographing in the jungle in high humidity, the moisture remains on the camera and penetrates further and further. Under these tour conditions, it is then difficult to dry the already damp camera. However, if the moisture accumulated inside the equipment evaporates, the camera may fog up for a long time. This internal moisture is also a breeding ground for mold.

When photographing in high humidity in the jungle, it is therefore particularly important not to get the camera wet in the first place. Leave the camera packed in the bag for as long as possible and avoid changing the lenses. Also, be careful when replacing the battery.

I often have the following items with me on my photo tours and can highly recommend them for use in the jungle or at home in the rain or on a paddling tour with a camera. If you buy a product via one of these affiliate links from Amazon, I will receive a small commission, and you will help me to keep Fernweh-Motive running. It will not be more expensive for you.

This is how it works: Protect your Equipment from Rain

• Waterproof camera bags : Use a waterproof camera bag or case.
• Ziplock bags and drybags : Pack the camera and interchangeable lenses in Ziploc bags or dry bags. This will keep your equipment dry when you are not using it. Moisture that has already penetrated the camera equipment can be absorbed by the desiccant. This storage method is just as suitable on tour as it is after the tour.
• Silica gel : Silica gel packets in the camera bag help to reduce moisture. There is silica gel that changes color when saturated with moisture. As soon as a packet is saturated, it must be replaced or regenerated by heating it in the oven or microwave (follow the manufacturer's instructions). It is best to take spare packs with you on your trip if you do not have secure access to an oven or microwave.
• Rain cover : Pack a rain cover for the camera to protect it from sudden showers. A plastic bag held in place with an elastic band or braid will do if necessary. Leave the cover on even after the rain has passed, as water will still drip from the trees later.
• Protective filter : A UV filter protects the lens from moisture and scratches.
• Rain poncho: a poncho, which can be worn over the rucksack, provides additional protection against moisture. It can be quickly thrown on in the event of a sudden downpour and also protects the camera hanging around your neck.
• A towel: have a microfiber towel to hand to dry the camera immediately

Better safe than sorry: Rain as we know it from home is nothing compared to a tropical downpour. You're lucky if you can take shelter for the duration of the rain. If you have packed the camera in the rucksack in Ziploc bags, wear the rain cover over the rucksack, and also throw a poncho over yourself and the camera rucksack, your equipment is well protected.

Lens Fungus and Mold

Frequent fogging leads to water accumulation in photographic equipment. In the long term, this can lead to mold and fungus. This forms a white film on the glass, and the photos taken appear washed out. With a lens hood, the lens reflections increase. Removing the fungus and mold is usually difficult and expensive.

Rice as a Desiccant

The camera is damp, but you don't have any silica gel bags available? Then you can fall back on a tried and tested household remedy: rice. Fill a bag with normal, uncooked household rice and place the camera inside. For this to work, however, the camera must be completely covered in rice.

This is how it works: Camera Care after the Tour

• Cleaning : Wipe the camera and lenses thoroughly with a soft cloth after the tour. If the equipment has also been exposed to salt water, wipe it off with a slightly damp cloth beforehand.
• Moisture control : Store the camera in a dry bag or ziploc bag with fresh silica gel packets.
• Regenerating silica gel packets : Check whether the silica gel packets are already saturated with moisture and regenerate them in the microwave or oven if necessary.

Extreme Conditions and Safety for Photographers in the Jungle

Tropical heat and high humidity can also be challenging for photographers themselves. Drink plenty of water to stay hydrated. A sun hat and sunscreen are important to protect yourself from the strong UV rays. Mosquitoes and other insects are common in the tropics, so protect yourself with insect repellent. Did you think about the recommended vaccinations before your trip?

Photo Tips for the Jungle

• The tropical sun is often very strong during the day, and the light is harsh. Take photos in the early morning or late evening twilight to take advantage of soft, warm light and less harsh shadows.
• In the dense rainforest, the light is often diffuse. A higher ISO value and a larger aperture (small f-number) help to achieve clearly focused photos despite the lack of light.
• Detailed and close-up shots of leaves, moss, insects and dewdrops look particularly vivid.
• Use continuous shooting mode for animal photos and be patient. Animals are often difficult to see in the jungle and move quickly through the undergrowth.
• Photograph the rays of light that break through the canopy of leaves for atmospheric images with plays of light.
• Structure your jungle shots: There is often visual clutter in the rainforest. Pay attention to lines or natural frames such as tree trunks and leaves to direct the viewer's gaze.
• Tropical landscapes offer bright colors that are accentuated by strong contrasts. Use these contrasts deliberately to create points of attention in the picture.
• Wipe the lens regularly with a microfiber cloth.
• Use manual focus if necessary, as fog and moisture can affect the autofocus.

Conclusion

The tropics offer an incomparable variety of subjects - from exotic animals to lush vegetation and breathtaking landscapes. However, photographing in the jungle in high humidity requires special preparation, precautions, and techniques. With these tips and the right preparation, you can keep your camera in good shape, avoid humidity-related technical problems, and get the shots you want in tropical regions.

Book Recommendations for Photographers

Do you want to know more about photography and are you curious for inspiration? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Did you get a taste for it and want to delve deeper into the jungle? Then you might also be interested in my article Amazon of Ecuador: Travelogue and Tips around the Rio Napo and my article Muro de las Lagrimas - Guide for a Bike Tour on Isla Isabela.

Der Beitrag Tipps zum Fotografieren bei hoher Luftfeuchtigkeit im Dschungel erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Finland. After two months of husky guide training with Hetta Huskies in the north of Finland, I'm back in Germany. "How was it?" my people back home ask me. What should I say? I reflect and then begin: "It was challenging, exhausting, and painful... and there were around 190 reasons to keep smiling." On the day I left, there were even three more: the dog Puna had given birth. Three tiny, blind puppies are lying beside her in the shower on newspapers. For a brief moment, I hold the firstborn in my hand — a girl. Tiny, sharp claws prick my skin. The little one is squeaking for milk. With her black and white patterned fur, she reminds me of a little panda.

Get in the mood

A few photos from my first two weeks of husky guide training with Hetta Huskies. The motifs were the order of the day: dogs, dogs in the snow, dogs in front of the sled, dogs taking a break...

Captivated by the Dogs

It won't be long before the claws of Puna's three puppies are making a mess of dog beds, blankets, T-shirts, sweaters, pants, and other things. They will also use them to shoo the guides out of bed in the morning, sometimes in combination with wild licking. In the morning, when my limbs were still stiff from work the day before and I was struggling to put my socks on. I often slipped barefoot into my wellies and took my two indoor dogs out to pee in my nightwear while my own bladder was still squeezing. Afterward, over coffee and muesli, they looked at me expectantly with their brown or blue doggy eyes.

I miss the dogs around me. I never thought it would happen so quickly. But with every walk, feed, toothbrush, or sled ride, I got to know the individual personalities of the dogs better and built up trust and bonds with them.

What helped me as a dog newbie to warm up to the dogs quickly: I went to dog school beforehand...yes, without a dog. The girls from the Dogxytocin dog school supported my plans with theory training specially tailored to me. I was also able to watch their training sessions in the dog park. Thanks again for that! You can read more details about my preparations for the husky guide training below.

Two Months & a Thousand Experiences

I look through my photos and remember my two months at Hetta Huskies. Did I really do all that? How did it all fit into just two months?

At the beginning of April, when I arrived at the farm, there was still a lot of snow. The last multi-day sled tours were running and I had the opportunity to join them for three days. The dog sleds went over ice, through deep snow, mud, and water. Over time, the landscape changed from white to brown to green. The first flowers bloomed, the thermometer showed up to 28 degrees Celsius and the mosquito bites on humans and dogs became more and more numerous from the beginning of June.

Working with the dogs dominated our days. Feeding, giving water, checking bedding, cleaning and, if necessary, repairing cages and kennels, preparing food, giving medication, brushing fur and teeth, removing calculus, cutting nails, stroking, cuddling, and much more. There were also lots of other things to do, such as repairing equipment, computer work, or giving farm tours for guests. After 12 to 14 hours of work, it was often not the end of the day. Then it was off to the sauna with ice bathing, paddling on the edge of the ice, snowmobiling to a wilderness hut, grilling sausages over a campfire, to the beach, carving spoons or evening walks with the dogs.

Physical work outdoors – all a matter of acclimatization?

Where did the energy for all that work come from? Hmm, I think some of the energy and adrenaline jumped over from the dogs to us guides. Coffee, chocolate, huge portions of pasta, and the dynamics of the group helped. In the evening, I fell into bed exhausted and slept like a rock...after somehow making it to the top bunk of my double bunk bed. I always thought I was pretty fit for my age. Sure, I sit in front of the computer a lot, but I do sport almost every day, jog a lot, and go trekking with a heavy rucksack. But I felt like I'd been put through a blender for the first three weeks. Eventually, my body would get used to the work, I hoped. But it took much longer than expected and didn't always work...if only I had done all this 20-25 years ago...;-)

Ready for the Sofa – Adoption Program at Hetta

After two months on the Fram, I'm not the only one ready for the sofa. Some of the older sled dogs would also love a place on a couch. Hetta Huskies runs an adoption program for these dogs, as well as for younger dogs who can't or don't want to work as sled dogs. Many guides, interns, or customers fall in love with one of the dogs and take it into their home. Before doing so, of course, it is checked whether it is a good fit from both sides. If necessary, some people wait for "their" dog to retire. The oldest dogs at Hetta are 15 years old. Converted into human years, that's a proud age of around 90 years. At Hetta, they usually spend their days in the warm or mosquito-protected house or together with other older dogs in the large "oldies fence".

Have I also fallen in love with a dog? Of course, with several. There was Maple, who always greeted wildly and didn't want to stop playing. Denali, who was a bit shy and was given to Hetta by a Norwegian racing kennel because he was no longer racing. Cuillin, who is a white cuddly dog or little Breeze with her blue eyes and penetrating gaze. Just to name a few. Each of the 190 dogs on the farm was special and loveable in their own way. It was damn hard for me to leave the farm without a dog.

Ethical Dog Care and Rescue Center

I just mentioned it in passing: some dogs that no longer have a place on other farms find a new home at Hetta Huskies. These can be dogs from racing kennels, surplus puppies, shy, sick, or lazy dogs. All these dogs are just as well looked after and cared for at Hetta Huskies as all other dogs. They are not given up just because they cannot earn their own living. Just as old dogs are not simply put to sleep when they have served their purpose. That's how it should be everywhere. Unfortunately, however, this is far from being a matter of course in the dog sledding industry.

Ethical dog care to a high standard is a top priority at Hetta Huskies. Dogs that no longer have a "place" on other farms are taken in by Hetta as a rescue center and cared for and trained according to their needs. I am happy to work a little longer during the day for this. A husky farm that treats its dogs as business inventory would be out of the question for me. Neither for work, nor as a paying guest for dog sledding experiences.

Was the Internship as a Husky Guide at Hetta Huskies worthwhile for me?

I could write a lot more about my internship as a husky guide at this point. Maybe I'll do that later. But now I don't have much time before I go hiking in Sweden and it's important for me to put this article online beforehand. The most important thing has been said and I would like to summarize it once again: Hetta Huskies in the north of Finland was a wonderful place for me to learn (even if it was hard sometimes). In many different ways:

• first and foremost, of course, about dogs and their needs, care, communication, and training (including medical care, dog check, and heat check, stapling wounds, brushing teeth, removing tartar, changing bandages...)
• about dog mushing, snowmobiles, and quads (it was impressive to see how snowmobiles can be driven in deep snow, tip over, and be dug up and righted again)
• I gained a daring insight into the management of a husky farm
• Working with customers: I was there out of season, but at the beginning, I accompanied the dog sled rides as a helping hand. Later, I really enjoyed the farm tours with guests.
• Craftsmanship: there was always something to be repaired, for example, dog kennels, cages, fences, sleds, leads, dog harnesses, inner shoes to be felted or equipment to be sewn.
• Working in international teams with interesting, like-minded people
• the challenges of the Arctic landscape and life in it through the changing seasons
• Finnish culture
• Training in outdoor skills

My Conclusion

Can I recommend an internship at Hetta Huskies? Absolutely! But: you have to be prepared to work a lot - I mean a lot - to give up your private life to a large extent and to learn every day. The busier the season, the more is required. From the dogs, the customers, the boss, the entire team, and, last but not least, from the Arctic with temperatures of around -40 °C in the coldest months. Hetta Huskies has a comprehensive training program, and they are happy to provide some reading materials in advance. This was a great help for me, as I was able to prepare in beforehand and already knew some of the dogs.

Preparations: Crafts, Dog School and Husky Farm

- "I don't have time at the weekend, I have dog school"
- "But you don't have a dog"
- "That's right... But soon I'll have almost two hundred"
- "How???"
- "I'm doing an internship on a husky farm in Finland from April"...I say, grinning like a honey cake dog 🙂

What's the saying? You learn for life... But first I learned for the dog: I go to dog school to prepare myself. The girls from Dogxytocin think my idea is great and have put together a program for me. I learn the basics of domestication and learning theory. I continue with the dog's expressive behavior and dog-dog and dog-human communication. I learned how a dog appeases, what a "kiss to dismiss" is, and much more.

At the Husky Farm in Frankendorf I finally have the opportunity to get closer to some Siberian huskies. It's the first time I've driven a team of three dogs and later ten. It's amazing what power they have.

In addition to working with the dogs, there will also be all kinds of manual work to do on the farm or on tour: general maintenance, repairs, or new construction of dog kennels, fences, and sleds, for example... In order to become a bit fitter in terms of manual skills and to get to know and use new hand tools, I had some extra lessons as part of my training as a Wilderness Guide at the Guide Academy Europe (GAE).

Kiitos! That's Finnish and means "Thank you!"

I would like to take this opportunity to thank everyone who helped me with my preparations! Another big thank you goes especially to my bosses and my colleagues, who made it possible for me to take time off work and thus have this experience at the husky farm.

Kiitos also to Anna, the owner of Hetta Huskies, to Tim, the farm's craft boss, and to all the guides I was able to work with. Last but not least, a big thank you to Maple, Denali, Cuillin, Breeze, Tim Tam, Domino, Thunder, Smeagol, Shadow, Sirbma, Unni, Yukon, Quest, Cherry, Solfrid, Jumbo, Elsa, Tinder, Starsky and all the other wonderful huskies I had the pleasure of meeting!

Want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I am also very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Book recommendations for Finland

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love dogs and snow as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about Dog Sledding in Greenland or about Scottish Winter Mountaineering near Glencoe..

Der Beitrag Husky-Guide-Training – Zwei Monate bei Hetta Huskies in Finnland erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

In cooperation with the Guide Academy Europe and TREKK'N Guide. Advertising..

Sweden. Only in retrospect, as I look through the photos and write this article, do I realize how many topics we covered during the Wilderness Guide Training in Vindelfjäll. Much of it was integrated into the course in a very natural way, so I picked it up almost incidentally and rather unconsciously. Christoph Maretzek, the founder of the Guide Academy Europe, explained other things in detail in individual steps and had me practise them again and again, such as making a fire. Even with wet wood! Other important topics for us were nature conservation on tour, intercultural competence and the responsibility you take on as a guest of a country or as a guest in nature.

I'll show you a few things we did during our wilderness guide training tour in this article. I'll stick to the surface because Christoph can better explain the exact details and procedures, tricks, and tips in his courses. Click here for the Guide Academy Europe (GAE) courses and here for TREKK'N Guide..

With Christoph Maretzek and the opportunities he offers through the GAE in terms of training and with TREKK'N Guide for leisure activities, I have come across a treasure trove of knowledge, skills, and (training) experience from a whole lifetime of touring. A treasure that has enriched me personally. Especially nature conservation on tour and the combination of modern outdoor life and traditional handicraft techniques, as every farm boy, every indigenous person, and every wilderness traveler used to know. Be it making a new handle for the axe on the road, repairing a rucksack, building a pack board, or a knife with the simplest of tools.

What is Wilderness Guide Training about? Why am I doing this at all?

Nothing is easier than closing the door behind you and simply setting off. Even from Berlin, it's not far from the great outdoors. And if you like it a bit more secluded, you can just get on the train and drive a little way. So far so good. When it comes to taking the right equipment with you, knowing how to use a map and compass, or predicting the weather based on the clouds, it gets a bit more challenging. But thanks to my previous Trekking Guide Training at the Guide Academy, that and much more that goes with a trekking tour also works.

Anyone who knows me knows that I love the remote areas of northern Europe with treeless landscapes and mountains, such as Greenland, Iceland, and northern Scandinavia. Areas where only a few people are still out and about and there are only narrow paths. Areas where nature makes the rules and doesn't care whether the tent is waterproof, whether you can get the fire lit, or whether you've twisted your ankle. Areas where there are no general terms and conditions and where it is better not to rely on a prompt rescue in an emergency.

Welcome to the wilderness! In a world that most of us first have to get to know again. We have forgotten how to observe and interpret the natural world around us. We are also rarely born with manual skills and creativity. But these are essential on wilderness tours and need to be learned and practiced. Only those who can improvise along the way and repair their equipment if necessary will make progress. This is exactly where the Guide Academy's Wilderness Guide Training comes in.

Preparation for Work and Tours in the North

And then there's something else: I'm planning to work on a husky farm in Finland for a few months from April 2024 and then hike long tours in Sweden. The Wilderness Guide training is part of my preparation for this. As I will also be doing a lot of manual work on the farm, the training also includes three craft/bushcraft modules for me. But there will be a separate article on this later. However, there is already a small foretaste at the end of this article.

First things first: Nature Conservation on Tour

Every year, the right of public access attracts numerous nature lovers, outdoor sports enthusiasts and adventurers to Scandinavia. However, in the belief in boundless freedom, boundaries are repeatedly crossed. If you don't find out beforehand what you are allowed to do and what you are not allowed to do, you can quickly put your foot in your mouth. "Don't disturb and don't destroy anything" is the motto. Quite simple really, isn't it? If everyone sticks to it and takes responsibility, then not only nature is preserved but also everyone's rights. Because the fact that we are allowed to use nature so freely in Scandinavia - especially as guests of a country - is by no means a matter of course.

Here you can read about Everyman's Right..

At the Guide Academy Europe, Conservation on Tour is taught and practiced with the "10 Golden Rules for Guides". Those who adhere to these rules show professionalism and responsibility towards our nature and help to preserve what we love most.

The 10 Golden Rules for Guides

#1 Do not leave paths unnecessarily
#2 Cook on the stove if feasible
#3 Fire and camp only in safe places
#4 Avoid protected areas, spawning and breeding grounds
#5 Avoid garbage and take it back with you
#6 Protect animals and plants
#7 Know and observe local rules
#8 Respect the local way of life
#9 Pass on your own knowledge
#10 Guiding by example

©TREKK’N Guide 2018

We spent a lot of time on the trail dealing with responsible campfires and washing on tour and also filmed short clips about it. I was particularly amazed at how much water you need to put out a campfire. When we thought it was extinguished, we still found pockets of embers under the stones surrounding the campfire. We needed a good three liters of water in total!

A Word about the Weather

Up in the fjell, the weather rules the world. It decides where we go or whether we go at all. Many tough guys and gals say "there's no such thing as bad weather, only the wrong clothes", but that's only half the truth. The other truth is that bad weather is often the reason why some hikers have fatal accidents. Or that rescue teams have to be called out and the rescuers themselves become drawn into risky activities.

Sound skills, training and good equipment are essential. Just like common sense and sensible consideration of the conditions. We therefore changed our route planning on the way and did not go into the mountains of the Ammarfjäll, far away from any paths and shelters, due to the forecast of heavy rain and storms. Instead, we continued on to Rävfallsstugan. A good choice!

Craftsmanship on Tour

Knife sheath, saw handle, wobbler, and float

If you are traveling away from supermarkets, DIY stores, or Amazon prime, you are well served with a sharp knife, a well-thought-out repair kit, a little imagination, and dexterity.

During our Wilderness Guide training and the subsequent stay at Värdshus Ammarnäs, we made two plugs, two fishing floats, a knife sheath and a simple handle for a saw blade. We tried out the wobblers in the water. With a little extra lead, one of them submerged well. The other had a little more buoyancy and swam in a sideways position just below the surface. Almost like a real injured fish. We hadn't fitted any hooks during the tests as our fishing license had expired in the meantime - yes, that's right, you need a fishing license for many waters in Sweden too. You can find more information here or at the local tourist information office.

Lost your Map? Let's make a Sketch

Has the hiking map flown away? The smartphone and GPS batteries are flat? And now what? The only thing you can do now is to hope that the next hiker passing by will have a coffee with you and let you copy their map. And this is how it works:

Did you grow up without a smartphone, scanner, or photocopier? Then you're probably still familiar with tracing. A blank piece of paper is placed on the image to be copied. The translucent contours are then simply traced. If the translucency is not sufficient, you can help yourself by placing the card and paper against a window or even using a flashlight to provide light from behind.

But what if you don't have blank paper but just a piece of cardboard or fabric? Then there's no more tracing. Then you can transfer the map using a grid. It is best to use the grid of the coordinate system in the map as the grid. The individual elements of the map are then transferred one by one: the paths, trails, bodies of water, peaks, contour lines, vegetation and prominent points such as huts or ruins.

A little Hut Etiquette

There are mountain stations, mountain huts, shelters and windskyds along the hiking trails in Sweden. I'll group them all together here under the term "hut", even though there are of course major differences. What they all have in common, however, is that sometimes more, sometimes fewer hikers pass and use the huts every day. Some hikers do this because they want to be comfortable, others because they are in need or - without a hut - would be in need. Mutual consideration and respect should be a matter of course in such a confined space with several strangers from different cultures. In this context, Christoph liked to quote the famous philosopher Immanuel Kant: "Would I like all other people to act in the same way?" Here are three examples:Möchte ich, dass alle anderen Menschen auch so handeln?” Hier drei Beispiele:

• Do I want all the people to spread out their wet clothes and all their luggage in the hut and claim all the seats for themselves?
• Do I want everyone to scribble loudly early in the morning while others are still asleep?
• Do I want everyone who visits a mountain hut to burn the winter wood for emergencies in summer without being in need and turn the hut into a sauna?

All clear, right? 😉

Learning from Nature - Shoe Care

What the little plant can do so easily, my hiking boots can do too... But only after thorough and regular care.
Nature shows us how to do it:

In order for the water to roll off the leaves so nicely, it has to be as water-repellent as possible, for example with a thin layer of wax. A shoe wax is therefore part of my standard equipment on trekking tours. GoreTex membrane in the shoes or not ... how often have I had wet feet even with GoreTex (no, it wasn't sweat). A thin(!) layer of wax on the upper leather of trekking shoes provides additional protection and prevents the leather from becoming brittle. You can rub muddy shoes with a tuft of grass or juniper before waxing. Then apply the wax with your fingers to the cleaned / preferably dry shoes and massage it in gently. Then leave them in the sun for a while to allow the wax to soak in.

Tip: Shoe wax is also easy to make yourself from beeswax and a little wool grease. Without any additional chemicals, the shoe wax also ensures velvety soft hands on tour.

Culinary Highlights on the Trail - it doesn't always have to be bagged Food

Homemade Trekking Food

Quick, easy and convenient: this is how the outdoor industry advertises freeze-dried trekking food in bags at peppery prices. Just pour hot water on it and you've got a one-size-fits-all product that nobody really knows what's in it.

Until recently, I took exactly this kind of food with me on tour. Supplemented by other, cheaper instant noodles from the supermarket. Of course, I knew from other blogs that many hikers make their own trekking food. There are countless recipes on the internet. But somehow the spark just wouldn't ignite. I then acquired a taste for it during my training as a trekking guide. Christoph had brought some things for us to try: dried vegetables, fruit, meat, fish, and homemade pemmican. This was the first thing I made as a veggie variation for my trip to Greenland. My variation was not lightweight, but it was delicious and soooo filling! What was in it? Magarine, oat flakes, corn starch, chopped dried fruit, nuts, and honey.

For our Wilderness Guide training tour in Sweden, I dried a wide variety of ingredients, packed them in airtight containers and then mixed them together on tour as the mood took me. The tour cuisine was definitely not boring and monotonous. What was on the plate? There was, for example, dried sauerkraut or red cabbage with mashed potatoes and dried beef, pre-cooked red lentils with colorful vegetables, or, as a snack between meals, fruit leather made from a pureed mixture of apple sauce, peach, ginger, and lupin protein powder with pumpkin and sesame seeds, chia and psyllium seeds.

Picking Mushrooms and Berries

Almost every day we also had berries and mushrooms on our plates, deliciously sautéed with onions and garlic. In the wet August there were so many mushrooms growing in the birch forests that we no longer said "I'm going out to look for mushrooms" but rather "I'm going out to pick mushrooms". Birch mushrooms were the most common. But there were also porcini mushrooms and butter mushrooms.

Fishing

We also had fishing gear with us and had each bought a fishing license for seven days in Ammarnäs. But even with the license, fishing is not allowed in all waters. As we had changed our original route due to the weather, we didn't get to the planned fishing waters.

Getting wet at the End: over Hill and Dale with the Packraft

Last but not least, we inflate the packrafts on our last sunny day of our Wilderness Guide training. We put our paddles together, tie our rucksacks to the bow of our rubber boats and strap on our life jackets. Into the boat and off we go. But after a section where the Vindelälven flows wide and calm, the river changes its face. We get out of the boats, take a look at the rapids, and decide to tow the boats along the banks. We work our way along in sections, sometimes in the boat, sometimes on foot. Exactly as we had estimated before the tour using satellite images and existing maps. The white, foaming rapids were clearly visible on the Google Earth satellite images and I added a few details to our hiking map by hand on this basis.

Our day with the packraft on the wild river left a deep impression on me. Shortly afterward, I gave a talk on the subject of nature conservation and packrafting and also wrote a blog article on the subject. In May/June, an abridged version of my article will also be published in Kajak Magazine. You can find the long version "Nature Conservation on Tour – nature-friendly Packrafting" here.

Further Modules of the Wilderness Guide Training at the Guide Academy Europe

Crafts and Bushcraft

The training tour in Vindelfjäll was just one part of the Wilderness Guide training. Other modules I have completed include bushcraft, survival, handicrafts, and cabin life. There will be another article on this soon. But here is a little foretaste:

On the self-built (!) bench made of ash wood you can see forged pot hooks, blanks for knife blades, a forged arrowhead, two built knives, tinder, a carved bowl made of Swiss stone pine, flat bread, cakes from an improvised mold, smoked meat and Swiss stone pine schnapps (also homemade by Christoph, but not on this weekend) with improvised schnapps cups made of tea lights. In front of the bench, there is a self-made pack board with a pack sack (right) based on an old model with an old Romanian army rucksack (left), as well as prepared wood for tool handles and two can stoves. Not in the picture are our improvised kerosene lamp, our landing net, two tool handles and a self-made drill.

Wilderness Guide Course - Nothing of the Peg

I completed the newly developed Wilderness Guide course as a pilot course in solo training. This allowed me to prepare specifically for my planned year in the north and to practise and gain experience with all the tools and their handling with my own hands. In addition to the fixed modules such as Wilderness Basic Training, Emergency Training, First Aid or Canoe/Packraft, the Wilderness Guide training also includes some optional modules such as carpentry, old tools for camp, and hut or knife making. This means that everyone can deepen their Wilderness Guide training according to their own needs/interests. This distinguishes the Guide Academy training from all other wilderness guide training courses available on the market.

In 2025, GAE will be in its 10th year! The training potential is huge and there is something for everyone. With Christoph and a team of experienced freelancers, participants will get their money's worth. Christoph's outdoor experience, his technical training as a carpenter, his leadership skills learned in the mountain troops and as a mountain hiking guide, and his knowledge of human nature and helpfulness, which he also lives as an experienced social worker and educator, are complemented by craftsmanship and attention to detail. Christoph is characterized by thoroughness and a far-sighted approach, as well as his ability to conjure up something in an emergency in the blink of an eye with little equipment. I hope I'll be able to do the same in the future, whether on tour, at the husky farm or at home in the kitchen...:-)

Want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I am also very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love long hikes as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about the Laugavegur in Iceland or about the The 9 most beautiful Hikes on the Isle of Skye.

Der Beitrag Wilderness Guide Training in Schweden mit der Guide Academy Europe erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Eisberge, Gletscherfronten, Vogelklippen und zwei gelbe Kajaks: Sieben Tage lang paddeln mein Partner und ich 150 Kilometer von Narsaq bis zum Qaleraliq Gletscher, wo die endlose Weite von Grönlands Inlandeis beginnt. Unsere Kajaktour in den Eisfjorden im Südwesten von Grönland war schon vor dem Start ein Vollzeit-Job: Recherche, Planung, Vorbereitung und schließlich das Packen ließen die To-Do-Liste vor der Tour immer länger werden. Doch die Ruhe in den Fjorden, das leise Plätschern beim Eintauchen der Paddel, die Eisberge und deren Spiegelungen im Wasser ließen uns all die langen Abende vorm Computer und den Karten schnell vergessen.

You can find a similar version of the following article in Kajak-Magazin 01/2024..

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links.

Greenland is cold, windy and a polar bear lurks behind every second iceberg. So it's no wonder that the centerpiece of our tour planning was a multi-page safety plan. The "What do we do if..." scenarios ranged from an encounter with a polar bear, capsizing, and various injuries to the loss of equipment or even a kayak. We were prepared for everything. That's what we thought.

What we hadn't expected was the glassy sea in the mornings and plenty of sunshine. We were sweating in our dry suits and preferred to put on a bit more sunscreen instead of a hat and gloves. Nor did we expect to be offered fresh seal liver by a seal catcher or to be woken up one morning by the roar of a helicopter.

Paddling Paradise between steep Cliffs, Icebergs and Glacier Fronts 

The starting point of our kayak tour is the town of Narsaq in the southwest of Greenland. With just under 1,400 inhabitants, Narsaq is the second-largest town in the municipality of Kujalleq. The fjords here are particularly beautiful for paddling, as there are more icebergs here than anywhere else. Most of the ice comes from the Eqaloruutsit glacier, around 60 kilometers away, and drifts west towards the open sea. The branching fjords, steep banks, and many islands make this a beautiful and relatively sheltered paddling area for experienced paddlers and outdoor enthusiasts.

All Beginnings are difficult... and so was Day One of our Kayak Tour in Greenland

We hired the kayaks, life jackets, dry suits, distress signals, and the satphone from Blue Ice Explorer in Narsarsuaq . We continue by water cab to Narsaq, about 50 kilometers away. But as the saying goes? All beginnings are hard... In our case, it is deep: from the landing platform, we lower the fully loaded kayaks about one meter into the water. Then we climb in after them. There is no beach or shallow jetty within easy reach.

Only in the second bay after that is a small beach, a sports boat jetty, and a supermarket where we buy the rest of our provisions. After what feels like an eternity, all our luggage is finally stowed in the kayaks. Before we set off, we take a break and treat ourselves to a coffee and one of those delicious pastries in the supermarket. Then we finally set off. At that moment, we wouldn't have believed that we'd be back here in the supermarket the next day, drinking another coffee and eating another Danish pastry.

What happened? 

Spaghetti or Spirelli...or not...

In the evening at camp, I'm faced with the difficult choice of spaghetti with pesto or spirelli with tomato sauce for dinner. I opt for spaghetti and look forward to the hot meal. I quickly unpack the cooking utensils and want to screw the stove onto the gas cartridge. Irritated, I look at the cartridge and try again. But it doesn't help. The stove doesn't fit on the cartridge, and redundancy doesn't help if you have the same stove attachment and the same gas cartridge with you twice. Not all screw threads are the same. Even if the difference is only a fraction of a millimeter and invisible to the eye. The kitchen remains cold that evening. The next morning we paddle back to Narsaq and pray to all the old and new gods that we can get suitable gas cartridges from the supermarket. We are lucky. To be on the safe side this time, I try out both cartridges with both stoves. After all, it's not just our hot meals that depend on the stove working, but also our drinking water. We melt it from the glacier ice floating on the water. This is pure fresh water. It is so pure that we even add extra electrolyte powder.

Across the Bredefjord with new Gas Cartridges

The return to the supermarket extended our paddle tour by 18 kilometers. We have already used up our bad weather buffer day on the second day of our tour. I'm frustrated and fear that we won't reach our destination, the Qaleraliq glacier, at all. At the end of July, it is still light for a long time here in South Greenland. However, paddling times are often limited due to the tidal current and stronger winds in the afternoon.

But when we arrive back at our camp from the previous night in the afternoon, the paddling conditions are so good that we immediately attempt the four-kilometer crossing of the Bredefjord. The weather is also kind to us on the following days, so that we make much faster progress than expected.

Wind and Weather

We get the weather forecast from our GPS tracker. The weather is always better than forecast. However, due to the high mountains, the branching fjords, and the strong sunlight, the conditions in each fjord change over the course of the day. In the morning, the water is often as smooth as glass. The sun then causes local balancing winds to set in around midday, which become stronger and stronger during the afternoon and subside again in the evening.

I check the barometer three times a day and observe the clouds in the sky throughout the day. Every day, cirrus clouds form, which usually indicate a change in the weather within the next two days. But the air pressure remains constantly high. The weather only changes when we are back in Narsaq and in dry accommodation. What luck!

Qaleraliq Glacier - the Destination of our Greenland Kayak Tour

After four days of paddling, we finally reach our destination and turning point, the Qaleraliq Glacier. South-north expeditions to the Greenlandic ice sheet used to start from here. Today, Qaleraliq Camp offers Arctic comfort with a view of the remains of the glacier front. Due to global warming, the glacier has retreated considerably, splitting into three smaller glacier tongues. Only two of them still calve icebergs into the water. Due to the coronavirus pandemic, the camp is closed in the summer of 2022 and we pitch our tent on a neighboring hill.

The next morning, I listen contentedly to the calls of the seabirds. But suddenly a loud engine roars in my ears. A cruise ship has anchored in front of our camp and started flying its guests over the Qaleraliq Glacier by helicopter. It's time to get up. I'm amazed at how quickly we break camp this time and load our kayaks.

Tip: Little treasures* that make paddler's life easier:Tip: Small treasures* that make life easier for paddlers:

Keep your Distance - Icebergs break, roll or collapse in on themselves

We keep our distance from the glacier with our kayaks. We also prefer not to get too close to the large, towering, or otherwise unstable-looking icebergs. Especially in the afternoon, after the sun has warmed the ice, we hear pieces of ice breaking off again and again and see icebergs rolling and sometimes making considerable waves. Even on land, you have to expect waves from out of the blue at any time. That's why we never let the boats out of our sight during breaks and prefer to tie them up once more than once too little.

Route Planning with Satellite Images

The banks of the fjords are wild, usually steep and often unsuitable for landing with a kayak. In addition to the risk of getting our feet wet from icebergs tipping over in the tent, we also have to take into account a tidal range of around three meters. Although there is a rough map of the area, the nature of the shoreline and its suitability for entry and exit are not recognizable. Instead, I analyzed satellite images to plan my route and used Google Earth to create my own map for our kayak tour in Greenland. I marked possible places to land or camp in color. I planned our daily sections with lengths of 20 to 25 kilometers, knowing full well that the weather could quickly throw a spanner in the works. The only thing we couldn't use was a planned camp at the foot of a mountain, as the risk of falling rocks was too high. It was going to be a long day of paddling. We had to paddle several kilometers to the next suitable spot. What's more, we had previously taken too long a break and now had to paddle against the tidal current in choppy water. We were cursing!

A nocturnal Visitor to say Goodbye

We spent our last night at the same spot where we set up camp for the first time.

I sit outside for a long time, not wanting the day to end. Something dark flits across the stones next to me. At first, I thought it was one of the many ravens, but it doesn't fly away. The animal remains like a mere shadow in the not-quite-dark night. Slowly, I recognize a small head watching me. Then I see the elongated body and the bushy tail. I carefully turn around to get a better look at the little Arctic fox. We look at each other for a moment, then he runs off.

I wait a moment to see if the little fox might appear again. Meanwhile, my gaze wanders over the Bredefjord. The icebergs are at their largest directly in front of our camp. In my mind, I can see two yellow kayaks gliding between the countless icebergs. I walk back to the tent with a smile on my face.

Book Recommendations for Greenland

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Have you ever been to Greenland yourself, maybe even for a kayak tour? How did you like it? Do you have any questions about my article? If so, please write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Want to know more about travelling in Greenland? Then click here for my article about my Hike at Tasermiut Fjord or about my Winter Trip to East Greenland.

Der Beitrag Grönland Kajaktour – Paddeln in einem Meer aus Eisbergen erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Ecuador. In the east of Ecuador, beyond the Andes, the rainforests of the Amazon basin begin. Here live monkeys, exotic birds, caimans, river dolphins, and millions and millions of insects. The forests are almost impenetrably overgrown and the primary means of transportation are boats in all imaginable forms. A jungle tour in the Amazon - on foot or by boat - is a highlight of every trip to Ecuador. Together with our guide, we traveled by canoe and speedboat from El Coca across the Rio Napo to Peru . You will learn what we experienced and what you should not miss on your jungle tour in the following article. In addition, you will get many practical tips for your stay in the Amazon of Ecuador.

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links*.

At a Glance

The rough route of our 8-day jungle tour in the Amazon of Ecuador:

• El Coca via the Rio Napo to the Pilchi Commune
• From Pilchi commune by speedboat to Nueva Rocafuerte and on to Yasuni Warmi, to see the pink river dolphins.
• Back from Yasuni Warmi to Nueva Rocafuerte and continue by speedboat to El Coca

Highlights: Pink river dolphins, parrot salt lick sites, night hikes, and night canoe trip, narrow "black water" rivers and lagoons, and last but not least the lush vegetation of the rainforest.

What to expect in this Article

On the Rio Napo in Ecuadorian Amazonia
Guest at the Amazon Lodge Pilche
Jungle walk in the Amazon of Ecuador
Oil Exploration in the National Park?!?!
Pañacocha Lagoon - Swimming with Piranhas
Napo Wildlife Center in the Añangu Community
Night in the Rainforest
By speedboat downriver to Nuevo Rocafuerte
Pink River Dolphins from Yasu Warmi
Night Trip by Canoe on the Aguarico River
For a Drink to Peru: Cabo Pantoja
Yasuni River and Jatuncocha Lagoon
Speedboat from Nueva Rocafuerte to El Coca
Tips for your Packing List
How to get to El Coca?

And now: Off into the jungle!

On the Rio Napo in Ecuadorian Amazonia

Only one day before I wore long underpants and thick gloves on the Illinizas Norte. Now I almost collapse from the heat. When we arrive in El Coca it is about 34° Celsius. After we have settled the formalities in the office of our tour provider and received our rubber boots, we continue to the boat dock. Here our motorized canoe is waiting to take us across the Rio Napo to our first accommodation in the Pilchi community.

The water of the Rio Napo reminds me of a lukewarm cappuccino. The river carries so much sediment and suspended matter that visibility in the water is zero. Besides the many small suspended particles, there are lots of branches and even whole trees floating in the water. These sometimes pile up into wild formations on the sandbanks or have wedged themselves into islets. Our boat driver skillfully avoids all obstacles and tries to follow the main current of the river. Smaller pieces of wood keep hitting the steel wall of our canoe. In order to offer as little attack surface as possible, the canoe has a flat hull with very little draft.

Guest at the Amazon Lodge Pilche

The Amazon Lodge Pilche in Indillama is a project of the Kichwa community in the Yasuní National Park. Members of the community run the lodge, drive the canoes, work as guides, or explain their culture during guided tours and other events. Here we are guests for the next three days. As soon as we arrive, we get a taste of what it means to be in the rainforest. A torrential downpour suddenly breaks out of the clouds and we look out of the windows of our hut with wide eyes. But after ten minutes it's all over again and we get ready for our first jungle walk.

Jungle walk in the Amazon of Ecuador

Our first jungle tour! Lubricated with insect repellent and equipped with rubber boots and a camera, we set off into the jungle. After the first few meters, we already see leaf-cutting ants as well as cacao beans, which grow as parasites on other trees. On wooden planks, we continue through the swamp into the forest. Different sounds reach our ears from all sides: Monkeys that sound like lions or birds that remind us of a car horn. We marvel at gigantic spider webs (without the expected monster spiders) and huge butterflies whose wings are blue on the inside and have a large eye on the outside.

It is amazing what you can see here within a few meters. You just have to know where and what to look for. Our guide has practiced this and shows us the most different insects. Suddenly there is a crash above us in the treetops: a monkey horde. One of the female monkeys was even carrying her baby on her back. What a great beginning! Soon we start our way back. Just in time to see the sunset over the Rio Napo. The sky coloring is just unbelievably beautiful.

Oil Exploration in the National Park?!?!

During dinner, our guide tells us more about the conflicts between the communities and the oil industry: In Yasuni National Park alone, there are 16 oil industry blocks, each with 400 to 600 workers.

A disaster happened about 16 years ago: a pipeline burst. The water was contaminated making fishing impossible for a long time. Tankers had to bring drinking water to the communities and food had to be brought in as well. However, adequate compensation from the oil company was not forthcoming. Nature has recovered to some extent from the worst consequences of this disaster. Nevertheless, the permanent strain on the ecosystem is clear: the jungle has become increasingly empty in recent years. Who's surprised? The gas flames at oil production facilities alone burn countless insects and birds every night, attracted by the light of the flames.

Want to know more about species conservation, jungles, and indigenous peoples? Here are a few books* to browse.

Pañacocha Lagoon - Swimming with Piranhas

t is still dark when we get up. But the first birds and insects are already preparing for the sunrise and are already making a lot of noise. We get into our canoe and set off. Our destination is the Pañacocha Lagoon. It is a gem among the waters in the Ecuadorian jungle and also popular with river dolphins. Maybe we will be lucky and see one of these special animals.

But we are still on the Rio Napo. The river is covered by fog, the other bank can only be guessed. The wind is cold and I put on my long sleeve and soon after my rain jacket. I would never have thought it possible that I would get cold here in the jungle.

After a short time, our guide surprises us with a stop at a steep bank. It is a parrot lick. Hundreds of Green Amazons hang on the steep bank or fly around. What a confused and noisy mess.

On we go, always downstream. We now see more and more huts, small landing stages as well as small banana plantations on the left bank. Then we turn into the Rio Pañayacu.

The narrow river winds in countless curves, behind every corner it is more beautiful than before and my eyes get bigger and bigger. The palm trees are reflected in the water, now and then lianas hang like a curtain over the river, and on the banks, everything grows on top of and over each other. After a while, the lagoon finally opens up. It is so beautiful and we are all alone. The two lodges that exist here are closed because of Covid and the resulting lack of visitors in the Amazon of Ecuador.

Another Jungle Walk

Equipped for our jungle walk, we walk through the abandoned site and already see the first snake. Its head is poisonous green but nevertheless, it is not supposed to be poisonous at all. Our guide shows us the combs of an empty ant nest at the entrance to the trail. Now a tarantula lives here, but it is completely unimpressed by us. We see more spiders, numerous butterflies, a tiny frog, and a lizard during our hike. After about an hour I am soaked through. Only one thing helps: off into the water!

Cooling down in the Pañacocha lagoon. Will I be eaten now?

Anyone who goes into the water in the Amazon is eaten by piranhas. And those who don't get eaten are instead infested with parasites that invade the body. Is that right? I have our guide assure me at least three times that I will survive a swim in the Pañacocha Lagoon. Finally, I am the last of our small group of four to slide into the cappuccino-brown water. It's warm, but still a refreshing treat. Besides, it's so murky that I can just about see my hands underwater. To make boarding easier, we have tied a small wooden canoe to the side of our big motorized canoe. Easier boarding? Well, we manage it and almost sink the small canoe. After laughing hard, it's time to shovel water.

We continue after a lunch break to Laguna Piguali. Here everything looks a bit wilder again. We see even more birds than before, including hoazins, a red macaw, cormorants, an osprey, and several herons. Even a monkey horde shows up. And on the way back, shortly before the Rio Napo, even a river dolphin appears in front of our boat. Unfortunately, I see the dolphin only in the corner of my eye, then everything was already over.

After a short visit to the family that lives at the mouth of the Rio Pañayacu, we finally make our way back. The sun is already low and the sky in front of us is slowly changing color. It is the 31st of December, we have beer and cookies to celebrate. We celebrate New Year's Eve with a delicious dinner back at our lodge in the Pilchi Commune. But after one glass of wine, we were already so exhausted that we say goodbye.

Napo Wildlife Center in the Añangu Community

Above the Trees

What a view! We start the new year with a trip to the Napo Wildlife Center. To be exact: to the 42-meter-high observation tower. The way up to the observation deck seems to have no end at first. The stairway spirals up and up and at some point we reach the first treetops. Finally, we are at eye level with a nest of the Montezuma Oropendola. It hangs dangling like an overripe fruit from a large tree right next to the tower. I wait for a while. But unfortunately, it seems not to be in use right now. It goes up even further. Slowly I get a little queasy and hold on to the railing. Promptly I am bitten by an ant. Fortunately, it was not one of those "Bullet Ants", because their bite is said to hurt as much as a shot from a pistol.

With every floor we climb, the view gets better. From the top we finally have a fantastic panoramic view over the Amazon of Ecuador: the Rio Napo on one side and on the other side a sea of leaves in different shades of green. Only the birds don't really want to show themselves. Only a red macaw flies as a small colorful dot over the sea of leaves and disappears as quickly as he came.

Parrots Salt Lick

Afterward, we go upstream a little bit from the observation tower. Our captain navigates skillfully between logs and sandbars and brings us to a sandy bay. From here it is about 800 meters to Clay Lick, another salt lick.

The Napo Wildlife Center salt lick in the Añangu community is said to be the most accessible in the Amazon of Ecuador.

Several dozen miller amazons (which are small green parrots) perch on the ground, lick salt, drink, argue fly up, and land again. But all at once they all fly up. The lick, which was densely besieged a minute ago, is now completely deserted. Finally, two red macaws arrive and make my photographer's heart beat faster. After about half an hour the first Miller's Macaws show up again. At first, they squat indecisively on the tree branches and between the huge leaves of a plant whose name I, unfortunately, don't know. But soon there is again colorful activity at the Clay Lick site. This time even a few of the pretty golden-cheeked parrots mingle with the miller amazons.

The clay lick can be easily seen from a small observation hut. There one sits somewhat hidden, does not disturb the parrots too much, and is still protected from possible rain. An information board on the wall lists all the parrot species found here: there are, believe it or not, ten different parrot species. We saw three different species during our stay.

What has worked best for me when photographing in the jungle?

Night in the Rainforest

Search for Caimans

With rubber boots, mosquito spray as well as headlamps we set out for our first night hike after dinner. Our destination are the ponds behind the Pilchi community center. There live caimans, a kind of small crocodile. You can see caimans best at night because their eyes reflect orange-red in the light of the flashlight. It doesn't take us long to find our first caiman. A baby. In the neighboring pond there is another infant caiman hanging around. Its head looks out and its body hangs vertically down into the water. What a funny sight.

There are also frogs, a tarantula, and other spiders as well as numerous other insects that we did not see on our jungle walks during the day. Especially impressive was the plank walk through the swamp at night and the giant frog with the hump on his back right under our wooden hut. It must have been as big as a kitten and croaked loudly.

By the way, insects are known to be attracted to light. So it was not a good idea to put the headlamp on the head. Within fractions of a second, all the flying insects of the jungle had gathered around my head...

Day and Night - two different Worlds in the Jungle

During the day, the jungle sometimes seems empty. At least there, where you normally walk. This is because life takes place mainly on the higher floors. Monkeys shimmy through the treetops, and birds call their fellow species or warn of intruders. On the lower floors, on the other hand, we mainly see insects: Spiders, beetles, grasshoppers, ants, and butterflies. The latter are particularly colorful and also huge compared to our native butterflies.

At night, the density of insects multiplies again: we see more spiders, more beetles as well as more grasshoppers. In addition, there are more species such as scorpions or praying mantises. A night hike in the jungle is simply exciting, everything seems mystical and mysterious and the animals seem even more bizarre in the light of the flashlight.

Tip: turn off your flashlights and experience the total darkness in the middle of the jungle.

During the day we sometimes saw no animals except ants for a long time. It was quiet in the jungle. Then neither bird calls nor raging monkeys could be heard. Our guide thinks that the jungle is changing, there are fewer and fewer animals. Blame the increasing pollution of the ecosystem by the oil drilling we learn.

By speedboat downriver to Nuevo Rocafuerte

Canoes of all sizes ply the Rio Napo, most of them motorized. Probably the most powerful motor, however, is the public speedboat that runs between El Coca and Nuevo Rocafuerte. The boat, almost full and crammed with luggage, collects us at the jetty of the Pilchi commune. Somehow we manage to squeeze onto the benches with our luggage. The wild ride on the Rio Napo takes two hours and thirty minutes. The wind and the engine roar in my ears and the wind blows refreshingly in my face. Next to me, the water splashes up the sides of the boat. It gets especially high when the boat hooks to avoid wood or sandbars. As a precaution, I tighten the fastener of my life jacket a bit more.

The further we go down the Rio Napo, the more populated is the river bank. The small settlements owe their existence mostly to the oil. We see two large oil tanks of PetrolAmazon and again and again tank trucks that are transported by boats.

Nuevo Rocafuerte

The village of Nuevo Rocafuerte has less than 500 inhabitants. Besides a barracks, the only hospital in the wider area is located here. The nearest roads are about 250 km away.

On the dusty main road, street dogs run up and down, vultures circle overhead and mopeds rattle past us. No one wears helmets here and there are sometimes three or four people sitting on the boxes. We get lunch in one of the hostels. Afterward, we mingle with the people in front of the village pub. Everyone knows everyone here, we are eyed curiously by the locals and wish each other a "Feliz Año Nuevo". I was most impressed by a lady in light blue high heels. She roared up on a quad bike, dragging a long plume of dust behind her. She also greeted us with a hearty "Feliz Año Nuevo!"

We pull ourselves away and head out to buy cookies before our next leg of the trip. For minutes I search the store shelves for Oreo cookies. In vain. Oreo cookies haven't made it this far yet. Always a sure sign to me that I have now reached the end of the world. The saleswoman shows us similar cookies, with which I happily get into the next canoe. This one belongs to the Yasuni Warmi community, where we spend the next three nights. It's a small, open canoe, with no shade and rock-hard stools to sit on. After an hour and a half, I know exactly where my ischial tuberosities are.

Pink River Dolphins from Yasu Warmi

Yasuni Warmi means "women of the water". This means the river dolphins. The context was not clear to me, I think I would have to go deeper into the mythology.

The community of Yasuni Warmi is located at the far end of Ecuador, across the border from Peru. Here the Aguarico River branches off from Rio Napo, and from the Aguarico in turn branches off the blackwater Rio Cocaya. Blackwater means that there is less sediment, but more humic substances and fish in the water. So it is not surprising that the pink river dolphins prefer to stay in the black water rivers and lagoons.

About twelve years ago, the Commune started attracting river dolphins with metal sounds. The curious animals eventually came right up to the jetty and were given a fish as a reward. Therefore, you have the best chance to see the river dolphins here in Yasuni Warmi and maybe even give them a fish or go into the water with them.

On our second to last day in the Amazon of Ecuador we pay another visit to the river dolphins. As soon as we arrive we see two animals hunting for fish at the confluence of the Rio Cocaya and the Aguarico. Marcelo strikes the two metal rods against each other. The rhythmic sound reminds me a bit of the ringing of a church bell. But today the dolphins do not come up to the jetty. Apparently, the animals are more interested in hunting themselves today.

Night Trip by Canoe on the Aguarico River

A night trip by canoe is something very special. It is pleasantly cool and the evening atmosphere on the river at sunset is pure relaxation. But with the darkness it gets more and more exciting. We search the river banks with our flashlights. Who will find some red eyes first?

The primeval-looking caimans usually lurk close to the shore between vegetation. Mostly only the eyes and nostrils look out of the water. Definitely hard to recognize. But if you scan the river banks in the dark with a flashlight, you can spot the caimans quite easily. Then the eyes light up red-orange and cannot be overlooked. Most of the time, however, you only see the eyes from a distance.

During the day we saw a caiman only once. It was well camouflaged in the murky water and lurked near branches sticking out into the water.

For a Drink to Peru: Cabo Pantoja

We say goodbye to Yasu Warmi and continue downstream to the border with Peru. The first town after the border is Cabo Pantoja, formerly Rocafuerte. We stroll along the shore in this village of about 500 inhabitants. There is not much here. Some canoes are lying on the shore, there is a small store and also a bar where we get a cool drink.

Refreshed, we continue in our small open boat. The sun shines relentlessly and the wind stirs up the sand of the shore banks. I slip on my long-sleeved shirt and try to protect myself as best I can from the burning sun. There is no shade. Wind, current, sandbank, and trees in the water make the trip a challenge even for our captain.

Before we turn into the Yasuni River, we make a short photo stop at the border between Peru and Ecuador. From here it is another eight kilometers to the checkpoint at the entrance to the Yasuni National Park.

Yasuni River and Jatuncocha Lagoon

At the checkpoint at the entrance to the Yasuni National Park we have to show our vaccination cards for the first time. Our destination is the Jatuncocha Lagoon, the largest lagoon on the Yasuni River. I am amazed at how different the vegetation of the river is from the vegetation of the previously visited rivers. In addition, the river dolphins seem to like it here very much, because we see several animals at two different sections of the river.

At first, the Jatuncocha Lagoon seems quite unspectacular. But the further we drive in, the more narrow and overgrown it becomes. We meander with the canoe further and further through narrow rivers. My Maps.Me map doesn't show anything here for a long time. Welcome to the wilderness. We see various birds, turtles and even a caiman about two meters long up close.

Farewell to the Jungle

Arrived in Nuevo Rocafuerte we climb the Chimborazo. No, unfortunately not the mountain but the hostel. If only it had been the mountain, we would have gotten more air than in our windowless room, a tiny oven. We have to pay 10 Euro extra for the air conditioning. Dinner is again rice, lentils and slimy-looking boiled banana. Even the dog, who begs me for a bite, spurns the plantain.

Speedboat from Nueva Rocafuerte to El Coca

At 6 o'clock in the morning, the speedboat goes back to El Coca. The trip is supposed to take five hours. I climb onto my cramped seat and settle in. With my thick camera backpack between my legs, I will probably have to remain in the once-assumed position for the entire ride. I wonder if I will ever be able to free my feet if we capsize.

The boat is fast and the wind has no mercy. I put on my rain jacket and close my collar tightly under my chin. After about 40 minutes we stop, take on more guests, and the boat is refueled. To do this, fuel is piped down from a canister at the top of the embankment via a hose that is perhaps six meters long.

A while later we stop again, but this time in the middle of the river. Something seems to be wrong with the engine. While the problem is fixed on the spot, the captain scoops water out of the cockpit in front. Hmmm, does our trip end now? Not at all. Soon we are jetting along, making wild turns to avoid the branches and sandbars on the Rio Napo.

We see a variety of canoes, other speedboats, simple wooden canoes, school boats, Mississippi-style steamboats, and transport ships loaded with cars, trucks, or even tankers.

About halfway, we finally stop for restrooms and to buy snacks and drinks.

On we go. With the water level flat, the captain tries to hit the main current of the river, because this is where the water is deepest and safest to navigate. Suddenly, the boat makes a U-turn and turns diagonally into the bend. Just in time, our captain recognizes the shoal in front of us and drives around it at high speed.

Must haves for the trip with the speedboat:

• Snacks
• Drinks
• Sunglasses
• Sunscreen
• Long sleeve shirt
• Windbreaker jacket
• Music or audio book

Tips for your Packing List

The Amazon region in Ecuador is hot, humid and insects are numerous. In addition, it can rain more or less and on the boats it can be quite cold if you travel fast in the early morning.

For your packing list this means: you need something of everything.

• Sunscreen
• Sunglasses
• Base cap or sun hat
• Umbrella for rain and sun protection on an open boat
• Microfiber towel* for sun protection or for bathing
• Swimsuits
• Insect repellent
• Mosquito nets are available in most accommodations, but it is best to ask again.
• Malaria prophylaxis or malaria medication (check with the tropical institute beforehand)
• Water disinfection tablets, e.g. Micropur Forte*. Most accommodations provide drinking water, but it is better to have purification tablets with you for emergencies.
• Refillable drinking bottles (e.g. two 1 liter Nalgene Bottles*)
• Diarrhea tablets
• Rain protection for backpack and camera bag or waterproof bags
• Rain jacket
• Shorts and long pants (quick-drying material), e.g. zip-off pants from Fjällräven*
• Tops and long-sleeved shirts as sun/insect protection (quick-drying material)
• Sandals and/or closed shoes
• Rubber boots for jungle hikes (usually provided by the tour operator)
• Flashlight for night hikes, e.g. the Petzl Actic headlamp*
• Binoculars, e.g. the handy and waterproof Zeiss Terra ED 8×42*
• Camera equipment. You want to know what I take pictures with?
• If necessary, several camera batteries, chargers, world travel plugs (you may not have power all day and can only charge at certain times)

How to get to El Coca?

You have several options to get from Quito to El Coca:

• Airplane: duration about 40 minutes; cost about $130 - $160 round trip; airlines Latam and Aeroregional.
• Public bus: several times a day, duration about 6.5 to 8 hours; cost about 15-17 dollars. It is not so easy to buy a ticket online. But there is usually the possibility to contact via Whats App. For example Ecua Buses.
• Private transportation in a car: duration about 5 hours; cost about 154 dollars for two passengers. Where. For example, at Ecuador Bus. At MyDayTrip you can even book individual stopovers if you wish. Costs however also more.

We flew there and returned with a private car transport. The advantage of private transport is that you are absolutely flexible in terms of time and also see the beautiful mountain landscape of the eastern side of the Andes.

Book Recommendations for the Amazon of Ecuador

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Have you ever been to the Amazon Basin of Ecuador? How did you like it? Do you have any questions about my article? If yes, then write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love wildlife as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about the King Penguins of Tierra del Fuego or Diving with Sea Lions near La Paz, Mexico.

Der Beitrag Amazonas von Ecuador: Reisebericht und Tipps rund um den Rio Napo erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Iceland. After the first two days on Laugavegur, trekking in Iceland counts as a water sport for me. I curse the rain cover for my backpack, which always flies off halfway, and I no longer believe in Goretex boots and lightweight gear. On the way, I discover my hidden talent for repairing outdoor equipment: sleeping mats, shoe soles that fall off, fissures, and broken backpack buckles... On the last day and after about 55 kilometers on Iceland's best-known long-distance hiking trail, I finally feel I'm prepared for anything and immediately walk further over the Fimmvörðuháls to Skógar. Simply irresistible!

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links.

Icelandic Weather provides Diversity

Laugavegur is considered one of the most beautiful trails in the world. But what exactly makes trekking on Laugavegur in Iceland so special? It can't be the Icelandic weather, can it? Or maybe it is because the weather gives the trail a very special atmosphere: light fog and low-hanging clouds made me not completely rule out the existence of trolls. Besides, the clouds gave my photos a great dramatic effect and the everlasting wind made me feel nature even more intensely. The quick weather changes also brought a certain dynamic to the hike: no sooner had one applied sunscreen than one was putting on one's rain jacket and looking for one's gloves.

Be prepared for bad weather and take waterproof and warm clothes with you. Even if the weather forecast promises only sun! You are on the trail for several days - the forecast can change. Don't forget: People have already frozen to death on the Laugavegur in bad weather!

Weather forecast for Iceland: vedur.is

More info about trails in Iceland: safetravel.is

What you will read here

There are already numerous blogs that describe the Laugavegur in all details and provide many facts. I don't want to write another one. So in the following I will write about some details that we experienced on the tour and that might help you when it comes to more than just GPS routes, camps and bus connections.

Do you know how to pack your backpack? Or how to calculate your own walking time? What is important when fording a river? Did you check your equipment beforehand for weak points or did you think about what you should take with you to repair your equipment or what spare parts you should bring?
You can read that and a few stories about it in the next chapters.

And why my post has this somewhat ambiguous title? Well, it corresponds to the naked truth. And there are already so many articles called: "Guide for the Laugavegur", "XX Tips for the Laugavegur", "Laugavegur - everything you need to know"... My title sounds more exciting, doesn't it?

The landscape drives to hike

Every day on Laugavegur surprises with a different kind of landscape. This motivates one to keep moving forward, after all, one wants to see what great view is hiding around the next corner or behind the upcoming hill. The more beautiful the landscape, the easier it is to walk. Even with my additional five kilograms of camera equipment.

We walked the trail in four stages:

Where is the luggage?

Imagine the following situation: You have well-tried and tested outdoor equipment - boots, sleeping pad, trekking backpack, sleeping bag, clothes, and, and, and... And then suddenly everything is gone. You wait for it to finally reappear, but no one can tell you where your luggage has gone. A week passes, the second week passes, and the third. And then you fly to Iceland to trek the Laugavegur and have either old, borrowed, or newly bought equipment. Thanks, Lufthansa! My partner's luggage was lost on the flight from Los Angeles to Berlin while changing planes in Frankfurt. It took three months for it to turn up! Hard to believe, isn't it? But alas, this happened with some regularity on several airlines in the summer of 2022.

My partner starts the Laugavegur with my 20-year-old discarded trekking backpack, an old inflatable sleeping pad, an aged sleeping bag, and borrowed mountain boots that were fortunately already broken in. That the soles almost fell off, we have only seen during the tour... And that the sleeping pad will not last long, we have also not suspected.

Check the equipment before the tour for the condition (the owned and borrowed) and reconsider the durability of some parts.

Stage 1: Landmannalaugar to Hrafntinnusker

After a four-hour bus ride through the rain, we arrive in Landmannalaugar in the rain. Here we are supposed to start. However, my motivation is low, my backpack is heavy and somehow there are suddenly far too many people here. At the same time as our bus, two other buses arrived, whose passengers now spread out in the parking lot, visiting the toilet and besieging the party tent kindly erected by the campsite owners. Did the bus driver not tell something about a food truck with hot soup? I suppress the thought and unpack our sandwiches instead. I eat quickly so that the bread doesn't get so wet. Then we're off. All the others - most of them were day visitors - have already set off and we now have a free path.

After the first 5 minutes, I realize that I have not packed my backpack well: the camera and the telephoto lens are on top, and my backpack wobbles on my back, which is especially annoying when climbing over the first rocks. I repack: the lens comes down further, close to my body, about where my shoulder blades are. And the camera comes out around my shoulder because the photo motifs will not be long in coming. As rain protection for the camera, I have a waterproof bag* handy, which I put over the camera again and again during the day. Also good, but not waterproof, is the softshell cover for the camera from Peak Design*.

Here's how: Pack your backpack correctly

• Light equipment such as sleeping bag, sleeping pad, down jacket down.
• Medium-weight gear, such as clothing to the top outside.
• Heavy load camera lenses, tent, provisions, drinking water at shoulder height as close to the body as possible.
• Small items that are used frequently in the lid compartment.
• Keep a first aid kit handy.
• Use pack sacks to keep your gear organized and dry.
• Backpack too small? You can also attach bulky, light luggage to the outside.

We walk through the geothermal area of Landmannalaugar with smoking solfataras, colorful rhyolite mountains, yellow sulfur crystals, pitch-black volcanic rock as well as whimsical lava formations. Again and again, great views open up, like the one over the black lava field Laugahraun, colorful mountain flanks, and white snow areas. Finally, in the last section of the stage, we cross extensive snowfields. As soon as the glassy, black obsidian then mixes with the rocks, the hut at Hrafntinnusker is not far away. The mountain is littered with obsidian, which you may already know from the series Game of Thrones as dragon glass.

The camp at Hrafntinnusker is very exposed and partly covered with snow. The places for the tent offer some wind protection with small stone walls made of obsidian.

Did you know that it is forbidden to take stones from Iceland?
Do not forget!

Do you want to spend the night in the hut? Then book early, because there is not much space. If you bring your tent, you don't need to make a reservation. The cost for a tent with two persons is 5.000 ISK (as of 07/2022). If you go to pay in the hut, take a little more money: there are canned beer and candy bars.

This is how it works: Calculate walking time

Do you want to know how long you will be on the way? This is how you can estimate your time:

1. Time needed for the difference in altitude: per hour 300 hm in ascent, 500 hm in descent, or your personal experience value.
2. Time needed for the walking distance: 4 km per hour or your personal experience value.
3. Divide the smaller value in half and add it to the larger value. This is then your approximate time requirement without breaks.

Stage 2: Hrafntinnusker to Alftavatn

The second stage starts in the snow. The trail is easy to see here, as a trail of dirt stretches across the white snow fields. The dirt comes from the exposed, rocky sections of the trail that alternate with the snow. It is much easier to walk on them. When we left, it was foggy, the wind kept whipping rain in our faces, and we shimmied from trail marker to trail marker, which are particularly large up here and therefore easy to see. We struggle with our rain covers, which the wind keeps tugging off our backpacks. Also, additional belts, which we tie around, help only for a short time. (The next day I packed the entire contents of the backpack waterproof in pack sacks and garbage bags and hiked without rain cover).

How much Rain, Wind and Fog should it be?

At some point, the point is reached that it is better to spend the day in the tent and wait until the weather gets better. Where exactly this point lies is difficult to say, it depends on many things. Better think twice about what suits you. Plan a buffer day and take a little more food with you. That way you can just sit out bad weather.

We set off for the day - after checking the weather report, which promised an improvement in the weather. Wrapped up warm and rainproof, with the map in a waterproof map case*, compass, GPS, thermos and Emergency Shelter*, where two of us would have found quick shelter.

At some point, it clears up. We look into a wide valley and see at the very back the lake Alftavatn with the hut. The path now goes downhill and the landscape becomes greener again. The camp at the lake consists of two cabins, a shower, and toilet house, and - here it comes - a restaurant! It is tiny, but all the more cozy for it.

When there is no Wind in Iceland, there is a Storm...

What was blowing across the meadow as we pitched our tent was definitely not wind. We held our tent cover down with our hands, feet, and stakes, and then somehow managed to tie everything down and tighten it up. The aluminum poles bent threateningly far toward the ground but held up after further support from a trekking pole. The tent meadow at the lake offers no protection, everything is flat, and there are no stone walls or bushes behind which one can warp.

The Thing with the Sleeping Pad

After we have set up the tent, the next surprise comes: one of our sleeping mats breaks down. It keeps the air inside, but some of the internal weldings of the single air chambers have come open. One half of the mat is now just a big bump, the suitable lying surface has been halved to about 30 centimeters... only brute force helps: we press forcefully on the mat and let more of the welds open up. Deflate a bit and then it somehow works out with lying down. But comfortable is different.

The sleeping pad was a bit older. To me, this has already happened with another similar mat after 8 years. Whether I continue to rely on air-filled mats with this chamber system on tours??? Rather not! What experiences do you have? Please drop me a line!

Currently, I use the Therm-a-Rest NeoAir Xtherm*. It's light, compact, and super warm with an R-value of 6.9. Inside it, there are many small triangular chambers that provide thermal insulation. I hope it lasts a little longer.

Stage 3: Alftavatn to Botnar

The night it stormed and rained continuously. In the morning it was a little less stormy, but the rain just won't stop. Slowly the campground empties, at some point, there are only three tents left, including ours. During a short rain break, we take down and pack our backpacks. About 16 kilometers lie ahead of us. We decide to stop at the restaurant after 100 meters. A perfect rain shelter with coffee and cake. Well... it was already noon (it opens only at 12:00). We wait here until the rain stops and then start our daily stage with dry clothes. Since it does not get dark in Iceland at the beginning of July, one is fortunately completely free in his timing!

Good to know: sunrise and sunset in Iceland

Spare Parts and Repair Kit

Before the tour, I considered for a long time, which spare parts and what I should take along for possible repairs. After Iceland, we went to Greenland for hiking at the Tasermiutfjord and for a kayak tour through the fjords. So it was worthwhile to think about these "little things". And maybe take a little more with us: Screws, cable ties, spare buckles for the backpack, armor tape, sewing kit, my Leatherman, and so on. I needed the sewing kit on the very first day, a spare buckle on the second day, and the screws on the third. What else I had with me but didn't need: floral wire, nails, rubber bands in various widths, super glue, buttons, rivets, ribbon, small leather/rubber pieces, velcro, and sturdy trash bags. In addition, I have collected on the trail everything possible, which was so on the way and seemed useful and thereby done equal to the environment what good.

Shortly after I had firmly reconnected the sloping sole with the trekking boot, we had to take the boots off again immediately: a river blocked our way. This was the first ford on the Laugavegur for us - up to here we could jump over all the rivers, cross them with the help of stepping stones, or just walk through quickly.

So boots off, waders* on, pant legs up, open the hip belt, and trekking poles* in the hands.

Wading through a river: how to do it, you can see here .

After about four kilometers we reach the Hvanngil hut with a beautiful and better wind-protected campsite. After that the landscape changes again, it becomes stonier and bright green, moss-covered mountains rise from the black plain. The way to the Botnar hut is long but offers many great motifs for all photo enthusiasts. With tired legs and feet, the view of the camp at the end is certainly one of the most beautiful motifs.

And because it is so beautiful here in the camp, we stay two nights and use our free day for a day trip and for photography. The first day we had pitched our tent at a great view. But for the second night we moved down into the valley, where it was much more sheltered from the wind.

Hiking Backpack and Camera

In addition to the necessary hiking gear, I carried about five kilos of camera gear across Laugavegur. The camera was mostly hung around my torso, ready to hand. With the shoulder strap, it didn't bother me much. Only when I used trekking poles, the camera was a bit of a hindrance and I then tied it to the backpack.

The camera clips "Capture" from Peak Design, which many photographers like to use, with which you can attach the camera to the shoulder strap of the backpack, unfortunately did not fit on my backpack. I have to try again with other screws, the supplied were just too short. Now I have discovered from Tasmanian Tiger a camera mount for the backpack and modular lens bags that you can attach to the outside of the backpack. Maybe I'll give those a try.

How do you carry / attach your camera to your trekking backpack? Do you have any tips? Then write them in the comments.

Stage 4: Botnar to Thórsmörk

With a view of one of the many glacier tongues of the distant Mýrdalsjökull, we continue on the last section of Laugavegur. After a steep descent we cross the river Botnaá, which has cut deep into the rock. Fortunately there is a bridge. The landscape here looks completely different from the first three days. Later we walk through black sand on which willow bushes grow. After another climb we see the sea for the first time. It seems eternally far away. Thórsmörk, the legendary forest of Thor, on the other hand, is not so far away. But before we enter the forests of dwarf birches and yellow and blue flowers, we have to ford the river Þrongá. This was the deepest and widest river we had to ford.

Arrived at Camp Langidalur we first sit down in the sun and toast with a beer (at the reception you can buy all kinds of useful and tasty things). Almost wistfully we look back on the trail - is it really already over? The next day the weather is supposed to be nice. I decide to go further. In front of me lies the Fimmvörðuháls Trail, which leads between the two glaciers Mýrdalsjökull and Eyjafjallajökull to Skógar. I go on alone. My partner takes the bus back to Reykjavik, because the broken sleeping mat does not really invite to extend the tour.

There are three camps in Thórsmörk: Basar, Langidalur and Húsadalur. All three have a bus connection to Reykjavik. Langidalur is closest at the end of Laugavegur. At Basar is the trailhead of the Fimmvörðuhál. Here also many overlanders camp with their vehicles, who don't want to ford the river Krossa. Camp Húsadalur is the largest and offers the most comfort, including a restaurant, sauna, cabins and glamping tents.

You can buy bus tickets online at Trex .

So what exactly made the Trekking on Laugavegur so special?

When I look back on the hike along Laugavegur, I would love to walk it again next summer. Iceland shows its prettiest side on these 55 kilometers, each stage has its own character. It never gets boring or monotonous. And the Icelandic weather then adds a bit more drama and atmosphere to the landscape. Simply beautiful. However, only if you are not freezing and not wet. But if you prepare a bit and take gloves, a scarf, a beanie, and long underwear with you on your summer vacation, you will have a great time on the trail.

Humid, stormy, irresistible - and sometimes the sun shines!

Many things that are necessary for the success of a trekking tour on the Laugavegur in Iceland, I have not gone into. These are, among others, the use of map, compass and GPS, stove and food, appropriate clothing, onion layer prinzig, emergency equipment ... The list could be continued even further. I will take up these topics in the coming articles.

Book Recommendations for Iceland

Do you want to know where the journey is going? Then I can recommend this travel guides* to you.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. This does not make the product more expensive for you.

Do you know the Laugavegur Trail in Iceland? How did you like it? Do you have any questions or suggestions regarding my article? If yes, then write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love trekking as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about the circumnavigation of the holy Mount Kailash in Tibet or about 100 kilometers of hiking on the Hexenstieg in the Harz mountains.

Der Beitrag Feucht, stürmisch, unwiderstehlich – Island Trekking auf dem Laugavegur erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Iceland. After two hours, I had almost gotten used to the constant uphill walking. It felt almost funny when I saw a wide plain in front of me. A minute ago everything around me was green, here it is now stony and windy. In the distance I recognized a cairn. It had to be huge. Shortly after, I kept the stone man company for a while and enjoyed the panoramic view of the surrounding glaciers and canyons from the Fimmvörðuháls Trail, one of the most beautiful trekking routes in Iceland.

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links.

Thor's forests, dizzying views, canyons, glaciers, white snowfields, black lava formations, volcanic craters and countless waterfalls.... Did I forget something?

Von Þórsmörk (Básar) bis nach Skógar sind es rund 25 Kilometer und 870 Höhenmeter bergauf. Der Weg geht steil hinauf bis zum Fimmvörðuháls, wo die Hütten Fimmvörðuskáli und Baldvinsskáli stehen. Von dort geht es dann nicht ganz so steil rund 1060 Höhenmeter wieder hinab. Viele Wanderer, die den beliebten Laugarvegur Trail gehen, setzten ihre Wanderung über den Fimmvörðuháls Trail bis nach Skogar fort. Die Strecke lässt sich in zwei Etappen mit Übernachtung bzw. Camping in/an der Hütte unterteilen. Für mich war es ebenso die Fortsetzung des Laugarvegur und zugleich der krönende Abschluss einer meiner schönsten Wandertouren. Ich bin beide Etappen des Fimmvörðuháls an einem Tag gelaufen, anfangs bei schönstem Sonnenschein. Abends um 23 Uhr kam ich bei Regen in Skogar an. Der Zeltplatz war voll, meine Beine waren müde, meine Füße waren nass, meine Nase lief, aber ich hatte ein breites Grinsen im Gesicht.

Stages of the Fimmvörðuháls Trail

Stage 1: Þórsmörk (Básar) - Fimmvörðuháls (ca. 10,5 km; ascent ca. 1220 m, descent ca. 259 m)

Stage 2: Fimmvörðuháls - Skógar (approx. 14 km; descent approx. 1060 m)

Where is the Fimmvörðuháls Trail the most beautiful?

The Fimmvörðuháls Trail gives you a little bit of everything Iceland has to offer. It's hard to say which section I liked best. The trails are very different and it is the variety that makes the trail. It never gets boring.

Forests of Thor and dwelling place of the gods

It starts in the forests of Thor - also known as Þórsmörk. Here blue and yellow flowers bloom, there is water and the dwarf birches grow lush and don't seem so dwarfish anymore. The path zigzags up through Goðalönd, the dwelling place of the gods, to several viewpoints. From here the valley of the wide glacial river Krossa can be seen for a long time. Soon, the path becomes more exposed. On both sides deep canyons cut into the landscape and there is a great view of the mountain Útigönguhöfði and the glacier Tungnakvíslajökull on the other side. Up here, no more trees grow and it goes steeply up a grass-covered mountain flank further and further.

View to the valleys Hvannargil and Hraungil

After the steep ascent it is time for a rest. The path leads straight across the stony plain of the plateau mountain Morinsheiði at the end of which the next highlight is waiting: the view into the valleys Hvannargil and Hraungil. A great point for an extensive break and to gather strength. Now we go up a narrow section at Heljakambur, it gets a bit steeper again and at an easy climbing spot there is even a metal chain for safety.

Snow and lava fields

Now it goes further and further up to the lava field Godahraun. At some point the first snow fields begin and the colors of the landscape reduce to black, white and gray. From time to time there is also some red mixed in, from the lava rock underneath. Here Eyjafjallajökull erupted in 2010, the craters Magni and Modri erupted before the main crater. By now the lava has cooled down a long time ago, but it is still sharp and cuts your skin or rain pants if you are not careful. The trail continues between the Eyjafjallajökull and Myrdalsjökull volcanoes. At the 1116 meter high pass Fimmvörðuháls it is almost done. At least for those who plan to spend the night at the huts.

Trail of the waterfalls

Two huts at the pass invite you to stay, camp or just to warm up for a while. From here the view reaches all the way to the coast. Afterwards the trail leads over a gravel road. Only at the bridge, which leads over the river Skógá, it continues on a trail - I have called this section for me the "Trail of the waterfalls". The waterfalls line up like pearls on a necklace - one more beautiful than the other. Especially when the sky is a bit more dramatic, the photos become especially beautiful. Unfortunately, this is then also often associated with rain, so I mostly just took pictures with my phone. Next to the waterfalls, steep canyons open up that can even keep up with the picturesque Múlagljúfur Canyon in southeast Iceland.

Even though this last section is incredibly beautiful, it also drags on quite a bit. Especially when you have already covered 20 kilometers. The trail ends at the impressive Skógafoss - but only after you have mastered the last challenge: about 370 steps down to the campsite.

Tip: After the bridge over the Skógá River, you'll find several springs along the trail where you can refill your drinking water.

The Fimmvörðuháls Trail at a glance

Start and end: Básar (247 m) in Þórsmörk via Fimmvörðuháls (1116 m) to Skogar (60 m)

Length: about 25 kilometers

Height difference: Direction Þórsmörk to Skogar about 870 meters up and 1060 meters down

Tip: It is easier to go steep up than steep down, so for me the direction Þórsmörk to Skógar was the favorite.

Overnight: In two cabins at Fimmvörðuháls (book in advance) or in a tent next to the cabins. Wild camping is prohibited. At the start/end point at campsites or hotel (Skógar) or hut (Þórsmörk).

Directions to get there: from / to Þórsmörk or Skógar Campsite there are buses. You can book in advance through Trex. Attention: If you take the bus from Skógar to Reykjavik, you will have to stay in Hvolsvöllur for about six hours. There is not much to see here, except the gas station with restaurant, a few Icelandic horses, a souvenir store and the lava exhibition. Alternative: the Straeto bus from Skogar. Bookings in advance are not possible. If the bus is full, you will have to wait for the next one, which will come the next day.

Do not forget: Trekking poles, sunglasses and sunscreen, rain gear and warm clothes (no matter what the weather is at the beginning!!!), gloves, hat, first aid kit with emergency blanket.

Check the weather forecast! If you are hiking at the beginning of the season, check the condition of the trail, for example on Safetravel.is. Do not start the tour in bad weather / forecast. You walk mostly in exposed terrain, where you have no protection in bad weather and also miss the view - not worth it. It is better to stay one day longer in the camp. Plan a reserve day, if necessary instead smaller day tour in Þórsmörk!

The best Season: mid July - early September

Trail conditions: trails, scree, snow and lava fields, gravel road. In July 2022 I didn't have to ford any rivers from Þórsmörk Langidalur to Básar, the Krossa was crossable dry with mobile bridge. However, it is better to ask about the current status beforehand.

Drinking water: There are hardly any places on the way where you can fill up. However, you can melt snow at the top of the pass or buy drinks at the huts.

Map: Landmannalaugar, Porsmörk, Fjallabak - 1:100.000 *

Orientation: the trail is marked throughout with pegs

Book Recommendations for Iceland

Do you want to know where the journey is going? Then I can recommend this travel guides* to you.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. This does not make the product more expensive for you.

Do you know the Fimmvörðuháls Trail in Iceland? How did you like it? Do you have any questions or suggestions to my article? If yes, then write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love trekking as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about the circumnavigation of the holy Mount Kailash in Tibet or about 100 kilometers of hiking on the Hexenstieg in the Harz mountains.

Der Beitrag Fimmvörðuháls – Trekking auf der Lava des Eyjafjallajökull erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Greenland. One of my feet stuck between two roots, branches tugged at my 26 kilo backpack and small thin twigs tore at my hair. There was no back and forth, no left or right. I took a breath and tried again. How far this strech of birch thicket reached, I could not see. The birches were taller than I was. Dwarf birches they should be. Then finally a free area, swamp, a brook and a few stones. Behind it the next birch thicket was waiting for us. For hiking at Tasermiut Fjord one needs patience and good nerves. You want more? Then read on and see what made hiking here so uniquely beautiful and rewarding.

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links.

4 kilometers in 10 hours - Welcome to Tasermiut Fjord!

Our most important companions during our hiking tour at Tasermiut Fjord: sunglasses to protect our eyes from branches, trekking poles, my drone to scout the next trail section, chocolate and patience. Each step wanted to be carefully placed. Here, at Tasermiut Fjord, the rules of nature applied. What ideas we had about our trekking tour didn't matter in the wild. Soon we dropped our expectations, adapted and suddenly paid attention to things for which we had no eyes before. After six days on the Tasermiut Fjord, we arrived in Klosterdalen safe and sound, except for a few bruises, and just in time for sunset. The mountains in front of us shone in orange light and clouds played around the rugged peaks of Ketil and other, nameless peaks. Nothing beats a moment like this.

Tip: You prefer paddling to hiking? You can organize kayaks at the Tourist Information or at the Blue Ice Cafe in Narsarssuaq.

In the Patagonia of Greenland

Some call the Tasermiut Fjord the "Patagonia of Greenland". Others call the area the "Yosemite of the Arctic." But no matter how one names the place, everyone agrees: these are the most beautiful mountains in all of Greenland.

The Tasermiut Fjord in South Greenland is famous for its rugged mountains and is popular with mountaineers, hikers and kayakers alike. Besides the mountains, snowfields on the mountain flanks, glaciers, wild rivers and low-hanging clouds characterize the image of the fjord. If you go hiking here, you will experience firsthand how green Greenland is.

The " Big Walls" on the Tasermiut Fjord include Ulamertorsuaq (1,858 meters, the Arctic version of El Capitan in Yosemite), Nalumasortoq (2,054 meters, shaped like an open book) and finally the huge granite pyramid of Ketil (2,010 meters). At the end of the fjord rises another great wall: the Tasermiut glacier, 1,400 meters high and three kilometers wide.

Hiking routes at the Tasermiut Fjord

There are several "recommended routes" from Tasiusaq to Klosterdalen, which are listed in the hiking map South Greenland Tasermiut fjorden - Nanortalik 1:100.000 . The routes run along the fjord shore or through the river valleys Qinnguadalen, Tupaassat and Klosterdalen. These are not hiking trails or paths. And honestly, at least on the fjord shore, the recommendation of the map is completely useless. You have to find your own way there. Maybe it is different in the river valleys. Only at the very beginning, near Tasermiut, there is a gravel road and paths or sheep trails. Otherwise it is pathless terrain: Meadows, blueberry scrub, marsh, willow bushes and dwarf birch trees. Sections lead along the shore, which is sometimes littered with larger rocks. Climbing is the order of the day. It becomes easier at low tide (tide table Nanortalik). However, in addition to the recommended routes, the hiking map gives other helpful information on its reverse side about hiking, kayaking, climbing, fishing as well as about nature and behavior in nature at Tasermiut Fjord. Worth reading and important to know!

What is missing in the map: the bridges over two glacial rivers are not shown. One is over the Kuussuaq river and the other is over the river between Ulamertorsuaq and Ketil mountains.

Hiking at Tasermiut Fjord and Klosterdalen in South Greenland

Day 1: Boat transfer and hike from Saputit to the Kuussuaq River.

Shortly after departure of our boat to Saputit we threw our plan A overboard and decided instead for the shorter hiking route along the eastern shore of Tasermiut Fjord: only about 32 kilometers instead of the big loop through the river valleys Qinnguadalen, Tupaassat and Klosterdalen with about 65 kilometers. With a shorter route we would be more flexible to the rain announced for the whole coming week and could simply wait in the tent for better weather. 

For the boat transfer to the start of the Hiking Tour at the Tasermiut Fjord , it is best to contact Serano Boat Tours via Facebook Messenger. We got a transfer for the next day.

Rain, rain, rain, rain, rain, rain....

We waited for the rain in the tent sooner than we would have liked. We barely set up our tent after our first 7.5 kilometers when it started to rain. Eleven hours of heavy rain, wind and even a small thunderstorm banished us to the tent until noon the following day. The meadow was soon flooded and the raindrops pressed through both tent walls. The water also penetrated the tent floor in some places. But there's always something positive: The cooking pot that I had left in my vestibule overnight was filled to the brim with rainwater for the breakfast coffee in the morning. Fortunately, I had covered my backpack after the first shower in the vestibule to protect it from the rain. However, my boots got a little soaked at the beginning.

Thunderstorms are extremely rare in Greenland. Luckily it stayed far away, otherwise we would have had to come up with something. One is not safe in a tent during thunderstorms. More about safety when camping during thunderstorms can be found here.

Info about the Route

Length: By boat: about 32 kilometers (about 45 min); on land: about 7.5 kilometers. Alternatively, you can be dropped off in Tasiusaq. The pretty village of 25 inhabitants has a small supermarket and you can rent the cottage from Serano. Your hiking distance will be about 5 kilometers longer.

Camp 1: On the northern bank of the Kuussuaq River is a large open meadow for camping. The meadow is marked as a suitable camp in the hiking map. However, sheep have also taken a liking to the meadow, which is why it is littered with droppings. There is a garbage can and a fireplace.

Trail: Initially gravel trail, passing two sheep farms; later trail (sheep trails); several fences have to be crossed either at the right place to open or at the designated overclimbing points; a bridge leads over the Kuussuaq River, fording is not necessary (would not have been possible with the water level we found)!

Drinking water: From the river Kuussuaq next to the camp. Because of the omnipresent sheep droppings, disinfect the water if necessary, e.g. with Mikropur Forte tablets*. For us it worked without.

Day 2: Boat transfer and setup at Camp 2

When we dared to leave the tent the following day around noon, Christian was standing in front of us. He had come with two Norwegian guests for fishing. After a short chat he offered us a boat ride to the next camp. At first I said no, after all we had come here for hiking. It should still be about 15 kilometers that day. But in the end my inner pig and my wet trekking boots won out. We quickly packed up, climbed into the boat and were at the camp after a bumpy twenty minutes. During the trip, even the weather cleared up a bit. As we approached the camp, we couldn't believe our eyes: two paragliders flew down one of the mountains with their colorful parachutes.

Actually, we thought we wouldn't meet anyone during our hike. But as soon as we arrived, Luc showed up. "Do you like to join us and have a cup of tea with me and my friends? " - Sure! His friends were climbers from France and Belgium. They had been here in camp for three weeks, climbing new routes. Under their tarp next to a big rock it looked really cozy: A table, benches made of stones, a big cooking pot and lots of other useful stuff. In the corner even hung a net with collected Lapland tea to dry. In front of the camp Emma held the position, a stone woman with hair made of seaweed.

In the evening, the cloud cover broke even further and revealed the view of the mountains. The panorama was indescribably beautiful. We stood there in awe until the clouds took over the mountains again.

Info about the Route

Length: in the boat: about 17 kilometers (about 20 min)

Camp 2: On both banks of the river between the mountains Ketil and Ulamertorsuaq are open meadows for camping. These are not marked on the trail map.

Specifics: A suspension bridge spans the river. Note: In September 2025, I learned that the bridge had been destroyed.

Drinking water: from the big river next to the camp

Days 3 and 4: Short hikes from Camp 2.

We stayed at the camp for three nights. The weather did not encourage further walking and my ankle was painfully swollen in the evening. It must have happened during the bumpy boat ride. I didn't twist my ankle and an overload from sitting in the tent and expecting the rain stopping was also unlikely... Instead of hiking further towards Klosterdalen, we did two shorter hikes in the area with light packs.

The first hike took us at first over the suspension bridge and then parallel to the shore towards the south. There was a trail that was easy to walk. We followed this to the next glacial river and then a bit inland on sheep trails.

On the way we kept looking for musk oxen. But as we learned afterwards, they should only be found on the western shore of the Tasermiut Fjord. Instead we enjoyed smaller companions: curious birds that came closer and often accompanied us for a while. As soon as we sat down and took a break they squatted on the neighboring rocks and didn't seem to be shy of us at all.

The next day we followed the path upstream from our camp until it got lost in the dense brush. Since the brush was still wet from the rain, my boots quickly got wet again. While walking through, I scraped the water from the plant parts, which then ran down my legs to my shoes.

Day 5: Here we go: departure towards Klosterdalen

We planned our departure for the following day, according to the weather forecast of our Garmin inReach Mini 2*the sun should shine. Then we would still have two and a half days time, until Serano picks us up with the boat in Klosterdalen. The eight-kilometer distance we should easily manage. And when we are in Klosterdalen, we could do some small explorations there. At least that's what we thought... it turned out differently.

We were quickly proven wrong: For the 8 kilometers we needed no less than two days with one seven and one 10 hours of hiking (including breaks). Swamps, shrubs, willow bushes and huge dwarf birches made every meter a small fight. But everything started quite relaxed. In sunshine and a light breeze, the first few hundred meters were along a path and then along the shore. Then the rocks got bigger and the shore steeper, so we had to swerve uphill. At first we thought the dense bushes were only there in some patches and could be easily bypassed. But eventually it became more and more dense and there was no other option but to go across. Around four o'clock in the afternoon we had enough. Next to a small stream we set up camp and unpacked the whiskey bottle as a reward.

A few words about safety: be aware that you can break your ankle at any moment while hiking through the birch thicket. Tightly laced trekking boots category BC are indispensable. Train your balance with a heavy backpack on your back: squats on one leg, lunges, etc. Have your first aid kit handy so that you can quickly apply a (pressure) bandage if necessary. Practice this beforehand! Allow enough time to sit out any rain in the tent and not have to rush in the difficult terrain. It is not a good idea to run under time pressure. And so that you can still enjoy the great scenery in Klosterdalen at the end: wear sunglasses and protect your eyes from stinging branches. Und damit ihr am Ende noch was von der tollen Landschaft in Klosterdalen habt: tragt eine Sonnenbrille und schützt eure Augen vor stechenden Zweigen.

Info about the Route

Length: approx. 7 kilometers

Walking time incl. breaks: approx. 7 hours

Camp 3: on the way, next to a small stream

Trail: pathless terrain: initially banks, then marsh, shrubs, willow bushes and dwarf birch trees

Specifics: There are smaller mountain streams to cross, which is mostly possible with stepping stones, a jump or just walking through. Only one stream we had to ford, but this was very easy.

Drinking water: on the way from numerous mountain streams

Day 6: Through the wilderness to Klosterdalen

The further we got towards Klosterdalen, the denser the wilderness became. I had read in blog articles about Klosterdalen that it goes in places only with 1 km/h. But that it will be here on the fjord shore a good 70% of the way so, I had not thought. (In retrospect, however, it is clear that it will be so, because after all you stay on the coast at the same altitude with similar conditions). The "recommended route" marked on the trail map was not apparent. Worried about missing a trail or open terrain, I sent my drone into the air. We then used the photos to pick the best route. Mostly it was from rock to rock, because there the vegetation was not quite so dense. From time to time we could walk on the shore, or climb over rocks. Only the last kilometer along the shore let us relax a bit.

At sunset we were standing at the camp in Klosterdalen. The last rays of the sun colored Ketil and Co. in warm orange. What a great reward for what was probably the most difficult hike I've done so far.

In the afternoon the wind increased more and more. In the evening it was so stormy at our camp that I took extra care to peg down our tent. But even with wind, the view of the mountains was simply fantastic. We put on another layer of clothing and enjoyed the view. Shortly after the sun disappeared behind the mountains, the wind also died down. But with the calm came the mosquitoes.

The mosquitoes of Klosterdalen

Some of the midges became part of our dinner: mashed potatoes with soaked dried vegetables. There were the small mosquitoes, similar to midges in Scotland, and also larger mosquitoes. Klosterdalen had significantly more than the other camps. But for me it was still ok without a mosquito net over my head. Most mosquitoes hung around my partner, who then also pulled a net over his head. From the mosquito spray Deet, which we used, the mosquitoes were rather unimpressed. It is best to check in Nanortalik, that you get a regional mosquito spray, which is adapted to the mosquitoes here.

Info about the Route

Length: 4 kilometers

Walking time incl. breaks: 10 hours

Camp 4: Klosterdalen, south of the river. The camp is marked on the trail map.

Trail: Pathless terrain: swamp, shrubs, willow bushes and dwarf birch trees. At the end shore with rocks.

Specifics: The further you hike into the fjord, the denser the vegetation becomes. No significant stream crossings.

Drinking water: on the way from numerous mountain streams; from the river Uiluii Kuua next to the camp.

Day 7: Boat transfer Klosterdalen - Tasiusaq - Nanortalik

The next day our boat came two hours earlier than planned - "We expect strong wind in the afternoon and we could not sail then - so we came earlier" said the captain. Thirty minutes later we were in the boat, the water was smooth as glass and the monastery ruins of Klosterdalen we will probably see another time.

How did Serano know we were already at the meeting place? I had given him the Internet address of my Garmin inReach. The tracking function recorded our location every half hour so he could trace our route on the map.

By the way, here, in the remote valley, there was an Augustinian monastery in the 10th century - hence the name Klosterdalen. Today there are only a few ruins left, but they are said to be barely recognizable. Unfortunately, we were not able to look for them due to time constraints.

Stopover in Tasiusaq

To Nanortalik it is about 70 kilometers by boat, about 1.5 hours drive. The closer we came to the mouth of the fjord, the higher the waves and the stronger the wind. White foam crowns stretched over the breaking waves and water splashed into our little nutshell. Greenland showed us again with ease how small and vulnerable we are. How easily one of the bigger waves combined with a gust of wind could have knocked over our little boat. We turned away and let ourselves drift with the wind back to the small town of Tasiusaq.

Later in the afternoon, the wind was supposed to weaken again. One just had to wait a bit. The blue wooden house of Serano invited us to stay with a warm stove and coffee (you can also rent the house). In the small supermarket of the village of 25 inhabitants we also get everything for a delicious lunch (card payment possible).

Around five o'clock in the afternoon we finally set off and were soon back in Nanortalik. After our hiking tour at the Tasermiut Fjord we were looking forward to a warm shower. On the way to the hotel we stopped briefly at the supermarket and bought a few treats for the evening.

Sad story: All inhabitants of the village Tasiusaq starved to death about 140 years ago. Only in the 1930s the village was repopulated by descendants and family members of the original inhabitants.

Some additional info at the end

• Buy the hiking map South Greenland Tasermiut fjorden - Nanortalik 1:100.000 and read the information on the back.
• A lot more information can be found in "The Ultimate Greenland Hiking Guide" from visitgreenland.gl
• Plan one or two buffer days for your hike and take extra food with you. The boat cannot come to pick you up in all weather conditions.
• There is no cell phone reception. Take either a satellite phone or, for example, a Garmin inReach and familiarize yourself with its operation beforehand.
• You are in polar bear country. Check with the tourist information office and your boat guide for any sightings and reschedule if necessary. More info on what to do during polar bear encounters.
• “Leave no Trace!” - better read again...

How to get to Tasermiut Fjord?

Tasermiut Fjort in South Greenland is relatively easy to reach, at least for Greenlandic conditions. You can fly from Reykjavik to Narsarsuaq. From there you have the choice: either in the expensive helicopter of Air Greenland to Nanortalik or by boat. Since we were already halfway there (Narsaq), we continued our journey by boat.

You can book the boat trip at Discoline . The trip is often done with the boats from the Blue Ice Cafe. Blue Ice Cafe.

From Nanortalik you need a charter boat that takes you to Tasermiut Fjord. We asked for help at the tourist information office. There we got the contact to Serano Boat Tours and could arrange a transfer for the next day. The cost of the transfer there and back was 700 euros (as of 2022).

Book Recommendations for Greenland

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Equipment

Below you can see the equipment we took with us to our hiking tour at Tasermiut Fjord. Most of it worked well. Only my Goretex boots were no longer waterproof after four years of frequent use (for whatever reason). I also wished our tent would have let less rain through. 1500 mm water column for the outer tent and 1800 mm for the floor were a bit low. But in return the tent was light and stood reliably even in strong winds.

Have you ever been to Greenland? Maybe even for a hiking tour at the Tasermiut Fjord? How did you like it? Do you have any questions about my article? If yes, please write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Want to know more about travelling in Greenland? Then click here for my article about my Hike to the Ice Cap at Eqi Glacier or about my Winter Trip to East Greenland.

Der Beitrag Die Entdeckung der Langsamkeit – Hiking am Tasermiut Fjord erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Scotland Scotland is known as a paradise for hikers, scramblers and climbers. Here, climbing the so-called Munros, or Munro bagging, is practiced like a national sport. And as soon as the first snow falls in the mountains, Munro bagging continues with crampons and ice axes. But winter mountaineering in Scotland has to be learned and practiced. We took a closer look and participated in a Scottish Winter Mountaineering course in beautiful Glencoe. With crampons, ice axe and ropes we went high up and steep down. Scottish winter weather and breathtaking views included.

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links.

Caution: Many Munros require a bundle of special equipment and skills. Every winter, underprepared hikers and climbers experience nasty surprises, some with fatal outcomes. Scottish winter weather and snow and ice conditions should by no means be underestimated.

What are Munros?

Munro is the name given to all the mountains in Scotland that are higher than 3000 feet (914.4 m). They are named after Sir Hugh T. Munro, who surveyed and catalogued all the Munros in 1891. The highest of the 282 Munros is Ben Nevis at 1,345 m (3,000 ft).

Climbing the Munros requires stamina and sometimes technical skills. Those who have climbed all the Munros are held in high esteem by the Scots. For me, also anyone who can remember the Gaelic names of the Munros and pronounce them is held in high esteem.

First Steps to become a Scottish Winter Mountaineer

Impressions from our five-day course in beautiful Glencoe, Scotland

Crampons and ice axe

The ice axe and crampons are part of the winter mountaineer's equipment. However, it is not enough to just have them with you. You also have to know how to use them and be familiar with their use. First, however, we learned how to move on the snow slope even without crampons: always hit the lateral corners of the boots into the snow. Then our instructor Chris explained to us how to use the crampons and additionally stabilize ourselves with our trekking poles or ice axe and a trekking pole. We also learned how to climb on steps in the snow or hit some with our ice axe.

Braking with the ice axe

After learning how to walk, we moved on to falling. Braking with the ice axe after a fall is an extremely important skill. But unfortunately it doesn't work instinctively and there is also the risk of hurting yourself with the ice axe or crampons. On a gently descending slope, we practiced braking in every imaginable scenario: head first, feet first, on our backs, on our stomachs, and everything in between.

Snow anchors, roping up, belaying and abseiling

The next few days we learned knots and worked with ropes, slings and rappels. We built anchors with an ice axe buried in the snow, sat in snow holes to belay our climbing partners, or rappelled down using snow anchors. Later, we also used rocks for rappelling and belaying and moved alpine style over mixed terrain.

Snow and avalanche awareness

In winter mountaineering, snow and avalanche awareness must be considered. This was taken into account first by theory lessons in the evening and the following day with a detailed examination of the snow layers and strength.

Are you interested in a mountaineering course? Then have a look at Adventure Peaks. For more information on Scottish Winter Mountaineering, visit the Mountaineering Scottland website.

Scottisch Winter Grades

There are different systems for grading the difficulty of a mountain route. Why does one need different ones? Well, they are adapted to the local climbing conditions. Here you can find an overview of the different scales.

Scottish winter grades apply to ice and mixed conditions. Roman numerals I through IX represent the overall grade, Arabic numerals the technical grade of the most difficult section. Our beginner course was limited to grades I and II.

• Grade I: Easy ascents, snow gullies and ridges. The snow slopes are steep up to 50 degrees. One ice axe is sufficient.
• Grade II: There are steeper sections with ice, which are mostly passable with an ice axe and have only minor technical difficulties. Sometimes two ice axes are required.

More about the Winter Climbing Grades.

Never trust the Scottish Weather!

Winter mountaineering in Scotland promises incredibly beautiful snowy landscapes and, at best, great views and blue skies. But the weather in Scotland is unpredictable. Storm and rain or even a white-out with zero visibility must always be expected. On one summit, as well as while rappelling down a snow slope, it nearly blew me away.

If you go to the Scottish mountains in winter, you have to be prepared for the worst of the weather and choose your equipment accordingly. On the evening before the first day of the course, Chris checked our equipment and explained exactly what we should take with us or rather leave at the hotel. Everything according to the motto: As little as possible, as much as necessary.

The season of Scottish Winter Mountaineering can stretch from October to April. But the actual length of the season is difficult to predict. There are no set dates, it just depends on the climbing areas being snowy and in good condition. Most courses in Scotland take place from January to March.

Tips for the equipment

• It is important to be prepared for emergencies: an emergency bivy sack*, a well-packed outdoor First aid kitincluding a warming blanket, an extra insulating jacket, a whistle*
• Indispensable are a reliable waterproof rain jacket and rain pants. If you are unlucky, it can rain all day. However, keep in mind that your rain gear can be damaged by handling the ice axe and crampons.
• Tip: Duct Tape*will tape anything, including torn rain jackets.
• Insulation jackets with Primaloft fill are better than down jackets in the expected wet weather. My favorite jacket has been the Arcteryx Atom*for years now. Even after 10 years of use it is still in good shape.
• Don't forget the rain cover for the backpack or pack everything in the backpack in waterproof bags*.
• Be prepared for the worst in terms of weather and be prepared for rapid weather changes. Take enough clothes with you to dress in the "onion layer principle" on site.
• Don't forget sunglasses and ski goggles. I have had good experiences with Julbo Reactive* , as the lenses adjust their brightness to the weather.
• Sturdy trekking poles, such as the Leki Sherpa XTG*, are essential for the course.
• A sip of hot tea on a cold day awakens new strength. It stays warm, for example, in the thermos flask from Esbit*. It even has two cups.

Mountain boots, hiking poles, gloves and everything else you might need for your mountaineering course in Scotland can be found at Bergzeit.

These were just a few things, the list is by no means complete. To ensure that nothing would be forgotten, Adventure Peaks gave us an extra packing list for the course.

We were able to rent the special mountaineering equipment on site. That was the climbing harness, carabiners, slings, rappelling gear, helmet, ice axe, crampons and crampon proof mountain boots (e.g. the La Sportiva Nepal Cube GTX*).

And what about the camera?

I have carried my camera up the peaks of Mount Kenya and Illinizas Norte, which are about 5000 meters high. Even in the paddle boat or while trail riding, it's always handy. But here, on the Scottisch Winter Mountaineering, I left it in the hotel with a heavy heart. First, because I expected to always have my hands full during training (it was). Second, because it rained so hard for at least the first two days that I might not have unpacked them at all. I took pictures with my phone, a Huawei P40 pro, instead. I also got some more photos from my partner and from our instructor, which I was allowed to use here. Thanks again for that.

Conclusion of the Scottish Winter Mountaineering Course in Glencoe

When I was struggling up a snow slope in rain and storm, I asked myself from time to time "Why am I doing this at all?" But then when the rain let up a bit and I stopped for a moment to look around, I'd ask myself "Why didn't I do this a long time ago?" Even though it can sometimes be exhausting and uncomfortable in the mountains, you are rewarded double and triple. With views over great landscapes and insights, for example, about what is important to you. For me, nature and the mountains are at the forefront. And the more confident I can be in the mountains, the further I get. During the Mountaineering course I learned a lot, had a great time with like-minded people and got a lot of desire for even more. A course couldn't be better, could it?

Book tips for mountain lovers who love to travel

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Have you ever been to Scotland in winter? How did you like it? Do you have any questions about my article? If yes, then write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love road trips as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about a Circumnavigation of Mount Kailash in Tibet or about the Climbing Mount Kenya in Kenya.

Der Beitrag Scottisch Winter Mountaineering in Glencoe erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.