Indonesia When you travel, you have experiences—often things you never could have imagined. Things you won’t find in any travel guide, but that you’ll remember for the rest of your life. For me, one such journey was the kayaking trip in Indonesia’s island paradise of Misool, which took us past bizarre limestone islands and secluded sandy beaches, deep into the jungle and sea caves. I’ll show you a natural paradise both above and below the water, tell you about the hospitality and helpfulness of the locals, and explain how one of my worst nightmares actually came true.

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Misool, Indonesia's Archipelago: A Dream of Turquoise, Blue, and Green

The Misool archipelago is part of Raja Ampat and is known for its many small islands rising from the turquoise waters. From the very first paddle strokes, we find ourselves in a scene that seems surreal: limestone cliffs overgrown with tropical greenery, hidden beaches, crystal-clear water, and a rich underwater world visible right beneath our kayaks. The coral reefs here are among the most biodiverse in the world and are home to colorful fish, including rays and sharks, as well as dolphins and sea turtles. The biodiversity and warm waters make Raja Ampat one of the world’s best diving destinations.

In May 2007, the Raja Ampat government designated a network of seven Marine Protected Areas as a Marine Protected Area (MPA). Today, there are 10 MPAs, which together cover nearly 35,000 square kilometers and about 45% of Raja Ampat’s coral reefs and mangroves. Misool forms the heart of a 1,220-square-kilometer marine protected area. There is just one dive resort and nine homestays here. It is remote, secluded, and not quite as littered as the rest of Indonesia’s beaches.

Limestone islands rising out of the water like mushrooms define the landscape. The shores are often steep, and there are caves and secluded beaches. The underwater coral reefs are largely intact. However, even here, some areas show signs of coral bleaching, serving as a reminder of global species extinction. In addition to the small islands, there are larger islands—referred to as the “mainland”—with mangroves and dense jungle. Crocodiles, wild boars, and forest kangaroos live here.

Out and about in a Sea Kayak in Misool — The Joys and Sorrows of Paddling

We spent ten days kayaking in Misool. Two guides from Millekul Adventures, Gilang and Amos guided our small group of eight people through Misool’s archipelago, into the jungle, and back. We slept in tents, at homestays, or sometimes just under the open sky on a covered platform next to a huge sea cave with stalactites. Our daily stretches ranged from nine to 23 kilometers. We started with short daily stretches, and as our arms got used to paddling, our paddling stretches grew longer.

On the very first day, the intense heat and humidity already had me feeling completely drained. Luckily, there was usually a light or moderate breeze out on the open water, and anyone who got too hot could quickly jump out of the kayak into the water to cool off. After all, we hadn’t practiced re-entering the kayak so extensively at the start of the tour for nothing. Nothing stayed dry here anyway. Saltwater, sweat, and—almost every afternoon—downpours that really washed us out. My fingers swelled up and soon looked like the bark of an old oak tree.

I had no idea that things in the jungle would get even tougher: no wind and no refreshing dip in the river, because a crocodile might be lurking in the mangroves. The humidity hung in the air in the form of fine mist droplets. You could see the humidity especially clearly in the evening by the light of our flashlights. The sandy beach turned into a mud bath, and we had to share our outhouse with even more flying and crawling insects. Even the toilet paper—despite being in a waterproof bag—was soon soaked through and unusable.

TIP:
Carefully close the zipper on the tent. Even the biggest spider can find the tiniest opening.
You can easily patch holes in the mesh with tape or band-aids.

Rock Labyrinths, Jungle, and a Sea Cave straight out of a Fairy Tale

Our daily life on tour can be summed up in just four words: EAT, PADDLE, EAT, SNORKEL, PADDLE, EAT, SLEEP. Sounds pretty monotonous, doesn’t it? Let me go into a little more detail:

Agility Training at the Kayak Playground

Our Swedish single kayaks were super maneuverable. We took advantage of that at the kayak playground and practiced our agility in narrow passages between limestone cliffs or paddled under arches. Our guide, Gilang, showed us rock paintings dating back about 4,000 years, and every now and then we spotted turtles or dolphins in front of our kayaks. It never got boring. Sometimes one participant or another provided extra entertainment by capsizing: Here, in the Kayak Playground, the first headlamp took a dip (the “pouch” wasn’t closed properly, and water seeped in). The contacts corroded from the saltwater faster than we could blink.

Blue River in the Misool Jungle

We finally ventured deeper into the jungle via the Blue River. At first, we paddled through mangrove forests; later, the river narrowed, and our guide, Amos, had to clear our path of fallen palm trees with his machete. The water was cooler here in the jungle, and we refilled our water bags at a freshwater spring. I never in a million years would have thought I’d drink water from a jungle river without boiling it first or treating it with some harsh chemical. But it agreed with all of us just fine.

TIP:
Your feet need to dry out every now and then, too. That’s hard to do when you’re constantly in the water or wearing wet paddle shoes or sandals. Even though no one likes to talk about it: athlete’s foot is a real risk here! It’s best to pack some athlete’s foot cream in your first-aid kit. Your first-aid kit should also include a wound disinfectant spray and a wound ointment for scrapes and chafing, which are bound to happen.

Cave Paddling at the End of the Year

Gilang had saved one of the many highlights of our kayaking trip in Misool for New Year’s Eve: We paddled into a huge sea cave and couldn’t stop marveling at it. By the light of our headlamps, we saw stalagmites and stalactites emerging from the darkness like ghosts. We were all thrilled. In high spirits, we landed at the nearby covered wooden platform, which was to be our sleeping spot for New Year’s Eve. After two nights in a tent in the middle of the jungle, it was a welcome prospect. We enjoyed a festive meal of packaged food, nuts, salty snacks, and fruit. Everyone drank the beer they’d been saving for this evening and enjoyed the coolness that came with the evening darkness. Meanwhile, our own little fireworks display began in the sea: bioluminescent plankton glowed blue like thousands of tiny stars and captivated us for the rest of the evening. The evening didn’t last too late, though—we slept right through the New Year’s countdown.

Here on the platform next to the cave, our second headlamp took a dip in the water during a daring leap. But we were able to quickly clean and dry the contacts on this headlamp, so it continued to work.

Tidal ranges of up to 2 meters sometimes turned us into acrobats as we got in and out of the kayaks and loaded them. Everyone pitched in, and as a team we managed to navigate even the more challenging sections. In the last few days, however, a bit of friendly competition broke out within the team: We competed to see who could collect the most trash, since, unfortunately, plastic bottles and other trash kept floating to the surface.

The Underwater World—Corals, Sharks, and 1,001 Colorful Fish

Shark! Five letters were enough to make eight people jump up from the breakfast table as if stung by a tarantula. Each of us wanted to see the shark and leaned boldly over the railing of the restaurant platform. Right below us was a coral reef. We saw a small reef shark as well as various schooling fish, napoleon fish, pufferfish, pipefish, lionfish, turtles, and many other fish whose names I unfortunately still don’t know.

If you’re in Misool, you’re guaranteed not to stay out of the water for long. Every day we went snorkeling several times and were surprised again and again. Blue, green, red, orange, and yellow corals alternated, and 1,001 fish swam around us. Moments like these made it easy for me to forget that every time I went in the saltwater, my long hair dried out even more and became tangled.

TIP:
Humidity is a challenge for any camera and can often cause it to stop working. Make sure the camera is always well-packed. There are small, waterproof deck pouches available for paddling that are very handy. Silica gel packets also help keep the camera dry. Another good option is a waterproof phone case or GoPro.

The Golden Jellyfish of the Hidden Lake Lenmakana

Jellyfish are beautiful to look at, but they should generally be approached with caution. Some species, such as the sea wasp, are even deadly. The venom of a single sea wasp would be enough to kill 250 people. So who would willingly swim in a lake filled with thousands of jellyfish? Yet that was exactly what I had been looking forward to for a long time: our visit to Jellyfish Lake Lenmakana.

To reach Quallensee, you have to climb a short stretch up a steep limestone cliff. The steep wooden ladders, with rungs spaced far apart—as if for giants—present a challenge, but the arduous climb is well worth it.

The saltwater lake was cut off from the sea about 12,000 years ago and is approximately 18 meters deep. The jellyfish of the species Mastigias papua trapped in the lake have proliferated in large numbers, and since they have no natural predators in the lake, their venomous tentacles have atrophied over time.

Rules for Snorkeling in Jellyfish Lake

Visiting a jellyfish lake is a privilege that requires visitors to act responsibly. After all, we humans pose a threat to these delicate creatures. That’s why our guide, Gilang, explained to us how we should behave in the water. The most important rules are:

• No fins or sudden movements
• Do not touch jellyfish or lift them out of the water
• Do not urinate in the water
• Do not apply sunscreen or insect repellent beforehand
• Do not dive

As I floated almost motionless on the surface of the lake, the jellyfish swam around me. All I had to do was open my eyes, hold my GoPro in front of me, and marvel at the beauty of each and every one of them.

Fun fact: In 2007, scientists discovered a jellyfish fossil that is over 505 million years old. When did the dinosaurs live? That was about 245 to 66 million years ago. So jellyfish were already around more than 260 million years before the dinosaurs.

Saltwater, UV rays, and humidity are sure to cause tangles in your hair

I’d already hinted at this a bit at the beginning… Long hair and trekking trips are always a bit of a challenge. When I was out on my treks in Sweden, I’d just braid my hair, wash it when needed, and after the trek I could brush it out again with plenty of conditioner without any major problems. It worked even after seven or eight days. I thought I could do the same thing here in Indonesia. But that didn’t work out: The humidity made my hair frizzy in the braid, the sun and the salt dried it out, and knots formed that even a shark would have struggled to get through. For the sake of the coral, I hadn’t packed any conditioner, and to conserve our precious freshwater, I didn’t rinse my hair after every snorkeling session. Of course, I also didn’t have any hair oil or anything similar with me to protect my hair.

After stocking up on conditioner, detangler, and hair oil following the kayaking trip, I spent about three hours in the hotel bathroom. To no avail. Chitra’s mother—a colleague of our guides at Millekul Adventures—had more success. Her mother had made time to welcome me to her hair salon. Her daughter accompanied me to interpret. I was her first customer from abroad, as she told me afterward. She was nervous about it. For three hours, she worked on my hair. Every now and then, other customers or family members would come into the shop, sit down, chat, and marvel at my hair knots.

In the end, the stylist’s skilled hands were able to save some of my hair, and my new hairstyle didn’t turn out as short as I’d dreamed it would be a few days before the paddle tour! Yes, I actually dreamed that I was cutting off my long hair. For me, that was an absolute nightmare. Maybe that should have been a warning sign… In the end, though, it was a priceless experience to be helped so patiently and wholeheartedly in a foreign country by people who didn’t even know me. We can all learn from this hospitality and willingness to help.

Book Recommendations for Indonesia

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

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Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love long paddle trips as much as I do? Then you'll definitely be interested in my articles Greenland Kayak Tour - Paddling in a Sea of Icebergs and Kayak Tour at the Orcas of the San Juan Islands.

Der Beitrag Kajaktour durch die Inselwelt von Misool, Indonesien erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Kyrgyzstan. Most travelers pass through Osh on their way to the Pamir Mountains or the high mountains of southern Kyrgyzstan. For many, the city is the starting or ending point of an adventure—a last chance to stock up on supplies before the road winds its way into the remote mountain landscapes of the Pamir Highway. Many also visit the sacred Mount Suleiman-Too and its cave museum. The striking limestone cliff rises in the middle of the city and has been one of Central Asia’s most important pilgrimage sites for centuries. I, too, stand on its summit and look out over the rooftops of Kyrgyzstan’s second-largest city. From up here, Osh seems calm and orderly; nothing suggests that this is one of the oldest cities in Central Asia and, at the same time, home to one of the most fascinating collections of Soviet mosaics and architecture.

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At the Crossroads of the Silk Road

Osh is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in Central Asia. Archaeologists believe that people settled here more than 3,000 years ago. Caravans transported silk, jade, spices, precious metals, and horses over the mountain passes to Osh. Along with these goods came stories, religions, and technological innovations. The Silk Road was never merely a trade route, but one of the greatest cultural networks in human history, and Osh was one of its most important stops.

Until just a few years ago, there was one place where you could experience this past particularly vividly: the Jayma Bazaar on the banks of the Ak-Buura. But when I visit Osh, very little of that atmosphere remains. As part of a large-scale urban development project, large sections of the historic bazaar were demolished and the market was relocated to a newly built site.

But Osch doesn't just tell the story of the caravans. Between the streets lies a second, often overlooked layer of history: the architectural legacy of the Soviet Union, with its monumental mosaics, reliefs, and buildings that resemble an open-air museum of the 1970s and 1980s.

Art for the Streets

The fact that so many monumental mosaics from the Soviet era have survived in Osh at all is by no means a given. While Lenin monuments, coats of arms, and communist symbols were removed in many former Soviet republics after 1991, the mosaics were often left untouched. This was due in no small part to the fact that many people viewed them not so much as political propaganda but rather as an integral part of the architecture. They were as much a part of the building as windows or stairwells. Yet originally, they were anything but mere facade decorations. During the 1970s and 1980s, Osh experienced a massive construction boom. Schools, universities, administrative buildings, cultural centers, and residential complexes were built. At the same time, a remarkable form of public art emerged.

Mosaics were as much a part of Soviet urban planning as parks or bus stops. They were not mere decoration, but part of a political visual language. Science, progress, agriculture, education, and industrial development were meant to be visible everywhere. Unlike statues or monuments, these murals told entire stories. It is interesting to note that many of these works do not depict exclusively Soviet symbols. Kyrgyz motifs also appear repeatedly in the mosaics in Osh; in particular, horses and traditional clothing are intertwined with the ideals of socialist progress.

The architecture itself is also worth a second look. At first glance, many buildings appear functional and austere. But if you look more closely, you’ll discover interesting details: geometric facades, concrete reliefs, grand open staircases, and the characteristic proportions of Soviet Modernism.

The End of the Lenin Statue

For decades, a massive statue of Lenin dominated the city’s central square. Standing about 23 meters tall, it was considered the largest statue of Lenin in Central Asia and was one of Osh’s most famous landmarks. In June 2025, the monument was dismantled. At the time, city officials stated that the statue was to be moved to another location and that the redesign of the square was part of an urban modernization project. To date, however, the statue has not been reinstalled as announced.

The demolition sparked debate far beyond Kyrgyzstan. For some, a relic of a past dictatorship had disappeared; for others, an important testament to the city’s history. In fact, the empty square speaks less of a radical break with the past than of a slow transformation. While political symbols are gradually disappearing from the cityscape, other remnants of the Soviet era remain virtually untouched.

A City in Transition

Anyone walking through Osh today will encounter construction sites, new streets, modern commercial buildings, and extensive renovation projects all at once. This transformation is visible everywhere. Yet, surprisingly, the traces of the past do not disappear entirely; instead, three worlds coexist: the millennia-old history of the Silk Road, the monumental legacy of the Soviet Union, and the self-assured Kyrgyzstan of the 21st century. None of these layers has completely supplanted the others. Instead, together they tell the story of a city that has repeatedly reinvented itself.

A Walk to the Most Beautiful Soviet-Era Mosaics and Architecture in Osh

You can discover the Soviet-era mosaics and buildings in Osh shown below on your own during a walk of about seven kilometers. I’ll start in the south with the mosaic known as “Horse Power.” It’s located next to the parliament building and across from where the Lenin statue once stood.

#1 Horsepower – Between Nomadic Tradition and Modernity

Location: 40°31’04.5″N 72°48’16.7″E

The former Agricultural Institute is a typical educational building from the 1970s. It is only at second glance that the monumental mosaic on the building’s facade catches the eye.

Several horses appear to be moving powerfully across the facade. Interspersed among them are ears of grain, geometric shapes, and technical elements that symbolize agriculture and progress. The horse has held special significance in Kyrgyzstan for centuries. The artists took up this familiar symbol and combined it with the Soviet vision of modern, scientifically driven agriculture.

It is precisely this connection that makes the mosaic extraordinary. It does not represent an attempt to replace Kyrgyz culture with Soviet ideology, but rather to unite the two.

Today, the work has a different impact. The political message recedes into the background, while its artistic quality stands out all the more. The vibrant ceramic tiles and the combination of local motifs with a modern design language make “Horsepower” one of the most beautiful examples of Soviet mosaics in Osh.

#2 Mosaic at the Drama Theater

Location: 40°31’11.5″N 72°48’05.8″E

While schools and universities focus on work and progress, the mural on the facade of the Drama Theater is dedicated to culture. Dancers, musicians, and figures in traditional Kyrgyz attire interact with people in modern clothing. The mosaic reflects the cultural policy of the Soviet Union. Theater, music, and folk art were intended not only to entertain but also to strengthen a sense of community. Even today, the building still fulfills its original purpose as a place of gathering.

#3 Entrance to the former headquarters of the Communist Party

Location: 40°31′38″N 72°47′50″E

The Communist Party building is one of the most impressive relics of the Soviet era. Unlike schools or cultural centers, this building served as the city’s political hub. It was here that decisions were made that shaped economic and social life in southern Kyrgyzstan.

#4 Peace – Peace in Colorful Stones

Location: 40°31’39.5″N 72°47’41.6″E

The theme of peace takes center stage on this facade. Even from a distance, the bold shades of blue, gold, and red catch the eye. At the center of the composition, a white dove and a radiant sun appear to float. In Soviet art, peace was one of the most important motifs. Doves, sunbeams, and families were therefore among the recurring symbols of monumental art.

#5 Glory to Work – A New Life for an Old Work of Art

Location: 40°31’44.9″N 72°47’40.7″E

It is one of the most famous murals in Osh. Workers, engineers, and students gaze resolutely ahead, with stylized factories and grain fields rising behind them. When the mosaic was created in the late 1970s, it featured a portrait of Lenin in the center. Above it was the slogan: “Our goal is communism.” After Kyrgyzstan gained independence, both elements were removed. The artwork itself, however, remained intact.

Unlike political monuments, many mosaics from the Soviet era in Osh were not removed but stripped of their ideological message. A propaganda image became a cultural and historical artifact. Today, the figures represent not so much the construction of socialism as they do work, education, and progress—values that endure regardless of the artwork’s original political message. The image has become part of the city and thus part of its history, without requiring anyone to share the artwork’s original message.

#6 The State University

Location: 40°31’54.5″N 72°47’44.7″E

The main building of Osh State University is an impressive example of Soviet architecture from the 1970s and 1980s. The university itself traces its origins to a teacher training college founded in 1939 and, after World War II, developed into one of the most important institutions of higher education in southern Kyrgyzstan.

#7 Kitobkhana – Osh City Library

Location: 40°32′0.37″N 72°47′32.78″E

Just a few streets away stands the Osh City Library, the Kitobkhana. The building was constructed during the Soviet construction boom of the 1970s and 1980s. Libraries played a special role in the Soviet Union. They were not only places for reading but were also regarded as public educational centers intended to make literature, science, and culture accessible to everyone. During this period, Osh also developed a dense network of public libraries that was significant far beyond the city limits.

#8 ELTR Television and Radio Company

Location: 40°32’01”N 72°47’46” E

Another striking building on my tour is the headquarters of the state-owned television and radio company ELTR. The media company traces its origins to the regional television studio “Osh-3000” and has developed since the 1970s into the most important broadcasting hub in southern Kyrgyzstan. Today, ELTR broadcasts nationwide and remains based in Osh.

#9 Kyrgyz Telecom and Salymbekov Business School

Location: 40°32′03.5″N 72°47′45.6″E

The Kyrgyz Telecom building, with its striking facade, and the adjacent Salymbekov Business School campus symbolize the transformation of Osh. Here, the infrastructure of the Soviet era meets the educational and economic world of modern Kyrgyzstan.

#10 Workers and Wheat – The Ideal of Prosperity

Location: 40°32’13.3″N 72°48’03.2″E

Near the former bazaar district, another colorful mosaic shines brightly. It depicts workers standing before golden ears of wheat, framed by bold shades of red, orange, and blue. In the Soviet Union, wheat was far more than just a crop. It symbolized prosperity, food security, and the success of collectivized agriculture. Together with the workers depicted with such self-assurance, the result was a motif intended to convey a belief in hard work and collective progress.

#11 The Dream of Flying at “Block 40”

Location: 40°32’17.0″N 72°47’56.3″E

One of the most unusual works of art on my tour is the large-scale sgraffito mural on the “Block 40” residential building. Unlike the colorful ceramic mosaics, this mural was created using a scratch-plaster technique, in which layers of plaster in different colors are exposed.

The motif is entirely dedicated to aviation. Stylized airplanes reflect the optimism of the 1960s and 1970s, when the conquest of the skies was seen as a symbol of progress and technological advancement.

The sgraffito has a particularly striking effect on a residential building. It was intended not only to provide residents with an aesthetically pleasing environment but also to instill a belief in a modern future. Today, the artwork serves as a reminder of a time when even ordinary residential buildings were given their own identity through art. Nestled between the balconies and windows, the sgraffito has retained its place to this day and is one of the quiet, often-overlooked mosaics from the Soviet era in Osh.

#12 The Mural on the Facade of the Residential Building – “Block 38”

Location: 40°32′17.5″N 72°47′57.96″E

Not all works of art in Osh depict industry, science, or technological progress. On the front of the “Block 38” apartment building, a large-scale sgraffito depicts a motif deeply rooted in Kyrgyz culture: the shyrdak, the traditional felt rug of the nomads. Its curving patterns have adorned yurts for centuries and are now part of UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage.

#13 Misha – Olympic Games

Location: 40°32’30.5″N 72°48’06.5″E

Just a few steps away, I come across another relic from that era. On a building facade, Misha—the friendly bear from the 1980 Moscow Olympics—is smiling. He was the mascot of a sporting event intended to present the Soviet Union as a cosmopolitan and modern country. The fact that Misha also appeared in Osh shows just how deeply even the most remote republics were involved in this major national project.

#14 Aeroflot – The Dream of Flying

Location: 40°32’33.2″N 72°48’05.0″E

The mosaic at the former Aeroflot office was created at a time when flying within the Soviet Union had become a symbol of progress. Aeroflot connected the country’s vast distances and brought even remote regions, such as southern Kyrgyzstan, closer to Moscow and the other republics. It tells of a time when technology and travel were, for many people, an expression of a promising future.

#15 Fabric – Of Fabrics and Symbols

Location: 40°32’02.5″N 72°48’15.8″E

At the center of the mosaic are women and men at work, surrounded by bolts of fabric, spools, and stylized plant motifs. The mural references the textile industry, which for decades was one of the city’s most important employers. Like many Soviet mosaics, this one celebrates the value of labor. The bold colors and ornamental patterns draw on elements of Kyrgyz textiles and combine them with modern factory work.

Today, the mosaic serves as a reminder of an era when Osh was not only a trading city but also a major industrial center. The factories have long since employed far fewer people than they used to, yet the mural still tells of the hopes and sense of identity of a time when work was seen as the driving force behind a better future.

The Small Mosaics along the Way

Not all murals in Osch are monumental works of art that immediately catch the eye. Some are only discovered upon a second glance. At former schools, kindergartens, or administrative buildings, smaller reliefs and mosaics adorn entrance areas and facades. These unassuming works were not created for tourists or art lovers, but for the people who came and went here every day. They were meant to brighten up everyday life and give public buildings their own identity.

Book Recommendations for Kyrgyzstan

Would you like to learn more about wildlife observation? Then I have three book recommendations for you. You can order the books* from Amazon by clicking on the images. If you buy a book or another article via an affiliate link, I will receive a small commission, and you will help me to continue to fill Wanderlust Motifs with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you.

Want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I am also very happy if you share my article with your friends.

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Recommendations for further Reading

Do you like the mosaics and Soviet-era architecture in Kyrgyzstan’s oldest city, Osh? Then you’ll surely be interested in the following two articles:

Der Beitrag Osch – Mosaike und Architektur der Sowjetzeit in Kirgisistans ältester Stadt erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Norway. The Norwegian island of Senja is known for its breathtaking landscapes, and Husfjellet is considered one of the most beautiful scenic peaks in the region. At an elevation of 632 meters above sea level, the hike up Husfjellet offers a panoramic view that is second to none: dramatic fjords, rugged mountain ranges, and the open sea stretch out in every direction.

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Husfjellet Hike: A Scenic Trail from the Fjord to the Fjell

From the Parking Lot to the Picnic Area

The hike to Husfjellet begins in the small village of Skaland, located on the west coast of Senja. Across from the supermarket is a paid parking lot, and a sign provides information about the hike. From the starting point, the well-maintained trail climbs gently at first to a picnic area with two shelters and a fire pit. Unfortunately, it’s still too early for a break, but on the way back, I take my last sip of coffee here and spot an old kettle on the bench—one that’s likely been hung over the fire many times before.

Ascent to Sommardalen through a Birch Forest

Shortly after the hut, the trail narrows, and soon after, it climbs steadily through a birch forest. After rain, the trail can become challenging. Good hiking boots are essential here to avoid slipping on the wet sections. I always find it fascinating to watch the vegetation change during an ascent. Soon, I spot the first purple orchids along the trail and reach the tree line. Just before the summit of Sommardalen (327 m), there’s an unobstructed view of the mountain fjord with its small islands, turquoise bays, and white sandy beaches. The view is already amazing here, and I feel like I’m way up high. But half the trail still lies ahead of me, and it’s clearly visible from here.

After the first peak, the trail leads through a valley where a wooden plank path spans the marsh. In June 2024, however, this path is very patchy after the snowmelt, and walking here is quite wet and muddy. I’ve got dozens of flies and even a few horseflies trailing behind me. Only after gaining more elevation do the insects start to thin out again.

Summit bliss with a View

The trail eventually becomes even rockier and steeper, and after a while it opens up to a breathtaking view of the Ersfjord with its dramatically towering mountains. Here the trail forks, and I follow the left path the last few meters uphill to the summit of Husfjellet. Up here, a strong wind is blowing, but I was able to find a sheltered spot behind some of the large rocks and enjoy the view of the mountains from there.

Weather Conditions and Risks on the Husfjellet Hike

The weather on Senja can be unpredictable. Even on sunny days, thick fog can roll in over the peaks within minutes and drastically reduce visibility. Strong gusts of wind are not uncommon on the exposed ridge and can pose an additional challenge. In summer, the long days are ideal for this hike. In the fall, the colorful vegetation provides a particularly charming backdrop.

Risks stem mainly from sudden changes in weather conditions and slippery terrain. So be sure to familiarize yourself with the current conditions beforehand, bring the appropriate gear (clothing, weather protection, provisions, first-aid kit), and, if necessary, cut the hike short if the weather takes a turn for the worse.

Conclusion – A must-see for anyone who loves Mountain Panoramas

The hike up Husfjellet is one of the most beautiful trails on Senja. It isn’t too technically difficult, but it rewards hikers with spectacular views. If you plan the ascent well and adapt to the conditions, you’ll be rewarded with an unforgettable experience in the heart of the Norwegian wilderness. For photographers, the summit is especially picturesque in the evening hours, when the warm light of the low-hanging sun perfectly highlights the dramatic landscape. Unfortunately, I was up there in the blazing midday sun, but even in that harsh light, the views are amazing.

Book recommendations for Norway

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

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Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love the north as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about my Husky Guide Training – Two Months with Hetta Huskies in Finland or about Trekking on the Laugavegur in Iceland.

Der Beitrag Husfjellet auf Senja – Hike mit Aussicht auf Norwegens wilde Schönheit erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Germany. The Kaiserstuhl Trail is one of Germany’s most beautiful hiking trails, winding its way for about 22 kilometers through one of Baden-Württemberg’s most fascinating landscapes. The route runs from Endingen to Ihringen over the ridge of the extinct Kaiserstuhl volcano and offers an extraordinary variety of natural and cultural landscapes. Vineyards, shady deciduous forests, loess ravines, and impressive panoramic views characterize the trail. The geological history of the Kaiserstuhl is still visible today in striking basalt cliffs, loess walls, and distinctive ridges. Mediterranean-style vegetation, rare animal species, and the unique geology make this tour truly special. The route can be hiked in about six to seven hours.

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The Kaiserstuhl Trail at a Glance

• Distance: 21.7 km
• Ascent: 590 m
• Descent: 610 m
• Start / End: Ihringen and Endingen
• For those who don’t want to hike the entire route: There are options to descend to the train stations in Bahlingen or Vogtsburg, as well as the bus stop in Bickensohl
• The appropriate hiking map is available from KOMPASS: Hiking Map 883 Kaiserstuhl, Tuniberg, Kenzingen, Emmendingen, Breisach am Rhein 1:25,000 (affiliate link as an Amazon partner)

The Kaiserstuhl Trail has been certified by the German Hiking Association as a “Quality Trail: Wanderbares Deutschland” and took second place in the “Germany’s Most Beautiful Hiking Trail 2019” competition—and rightly so, as it uniquely combines the joy of hiking, the experience of nature, and scenic diversity.

It all began with Volcanoes

The Kaiserstuhl owes its distinctive shape and fertile soils to its volcanic origins, which date back some 16 to 19 million years. During this period, the region was geologically active; magma rose from the depths and formed a complex volcanic area in the middle of what is now the Upper Rhine Plain. The remnants of this volcanic activity still shape the landscape today: basalt and tuff rock permeate the subsoil, and in many places, geological outcrops are visible, bearing witness to the region’s fiery past. The volcanic rock is overlaid by fertile loess that was deposited during the Ice Age and today creates ideal conditions for viticulture. Its volcanic origin not only makes the Kaiserstuhl geologically unique but also explains the region’s exceptional soil fertility and biodiversity.

Highlights along the Kaiserstuhl Trail

The Kaiserstuhl Trail never gets boring. The landscape is varied, and even in the final kilometers, you’ll still discover new things that will leave you in awe. The varied terrain, scenic overlooks, colorful plants, and brightly colored bee-eaters and green lizards seem to follow one after another. Here’s what I liked best about the Kaiserstuhl Trail:

Endingen Old Town

The Kaiserstuhl Trail begins or ends in the historic old town of Endingen, with its charming half-timbered houses and cobblestone alleys. From there, the trail leads to the Erleweiher, a small natural swimming lake on the outskirts of town. A short while later, you walk through a chestnut tree-lined avenue, whose trees—over 70 years old—constitute a living natural monument. A first cultural highlight follows with the Katharinenkapelle, a striking building from 1862 offering views of the surrounding area. The trail continues to the Bahlinger Eck, where it crosses the Hudenwälder—a relic of traditional forest management.

Badberg Nature Reserve

The Badberg Nature Reserve is one of the ecological gems of the Kaiserstuhl region and serves as a prime example of the region’s unique flora and fauna. Rare dry grassland plants, orchids, and heat-loving herbs—found in only a few places in Germany today—thrive on the sun-exposed, largely treeless slopes. The area is also a hotspot for insect diversity, including numerous species of butterflies and wild bees, and offers an ideal habitat for reptiles such as the sand lizard and the green lizard. I spotted many kestrels and red kites flying over the meadows. It’s definitely worth taking a short break here.

Eichelspitz Tower

The Eichelspitz Tower is a striking lookout point on the Eichelspitz, the second-highest peak in the Kaiserstuhl at 520 meters, offering panoramic views from the Black Forest across the Rhine Valley to the Vosges Mountains. The tower itself is a modern steel-and-wood structure.

Totenkopf with the Neunlindenturm

The Neunlindenturm is one of the most beautiful vantage points in the Kaiserstuhl and sits atop the highest peak of the low mountain range, the Totenkopf (556 m). The tower is located in the middle of the forest and offers a surprising, sweeping panoramic view of the entire Kaiserstuhl, the Rhine Valley, the Black Forest, and, on a clear day, as far as the Vosges Mountains. The viewpoint owes its name to a historic planting of nine linden trees, some of which still stand today.

Sunken paths, especially around Bickensohl

The Kaiserstuhl sunken paths are impressive testaments to a centuries-old cultural landscape. Over many generations, people and animals, wagons and carts have trodden and driven along these paths in the soft loess soil. Rainwater further eroded the ground, forming deep paths lined with steep walls. These unique earth formations once served as access routes to the vineyards. Today, only a few of these traditional sunken paths remain, but they are all the more significant: as cultural monuments, important recreational areas, and above all as valuable habitats for rare species. Wild bees and other heat-loving insects, in particular, find ideal conditions in the open, sun-drenched loess walls.

Vineyards and terraced Landscapes

The Kaiserstuhl Trail winds through the region’s characteristic vineyards and terraced landscapes, which define the Kaiserstuhl’s landscape and give it its distinctive character. Over centuries of work, winemakers have created a unique cultural landscape here, where grapevines thrive on artfully laid-out terraces, often lined with dry stone walls that also provide habitats for many animals. The warm southern slopes, the fertile loess soil, and the sunny climate make the Kaiserstuhl one of Germany’s most important wine-growing regions. Burgundy grape varieties, in particular, find ideal conditions here.

Green Lizards

With its bright green-blue scales, the green lizard is a real eye-catcher. It is one of the largest lizards in Central Europe and feels particularly at home on the warm, sunny slopes and loess cliffs of the Kaiserstuhl. Especially during the mating season in spring, the males display their intensely turquoise throats. If you hike with your eyes peeled, you might spot them sunbathing or darting into the bushes in a flash.

Bee-eater

The bee-eater is one of the most colorful and, at the same time, most unusual birds in Germany. Thanks to the warm, dry climate and the open loess landscapes, this originally Mediterranean breeding bird finds ideal conditions here. With its bright turquoise-yellow plumage, slender silhouette, and characteristic call, the bee-eater is not only an ornithological rarity but also a symbol of the extraordinary biodiversity in the Kaiserstuhl. It nests in steep, sandy loess cliffs, where it digs long tunnels into the ground. Its diet consists mainly of insects, particularly bees, wasps, and dragonflies, which it elegantly catches in flight. The return of the bee-eaters in the spring makes the Kaiserstuhl a hotspot for birdwatchers. There are good viewing opportunities near Ihringen, where there is even a small birdwatching hut behind the cemetery.

Hoopoe

With its striking appearance and unmistakable “hoop-hoop-hoop” call, the hoopoe is one of the most charismatic bird species in the Kaiserstuhl. With its rust-orange plumage, distinctive crest, and long, curved beak, it’s hard to miss. Thanks to its warm climate, diverse landscapes, and numerous cavities in old trees, dry stone walls, or nest boxes, the Kaiserstuhl offers ideal living conditions for the hoopoe. If you hike with your eyes and ears open, you have a good chance of spotting this rare bird near Ihringen. I’ve also seen a few hoopoes on my hikes, but only briefly or from a great distance. Maybe you’ll have better luck.

Flora

The Kaiserstuhl’s flora is exceptionally diverse and ranks among the most species-rich in Germany. The combination of a mild climate, south-facing slopes, loess soil, and historical land use creates ideal conditions for many rare and heat-loving plant species. Especially on the dry grasslands and in the loess ravines, a colorful variety of flowers blooms, reaching its peak in spring and early summer. This rich plant life also makes the Kaiserstuhl a paradise for insects.

The Wine-Growing Village of Ihringen

The charming wine-growing village of Ihringen marks the southern end or starting point of the Kaiserstuhl Trail and is an ideal place to end or begin a hike. As one of the warmest municipalities in Germany, Ihringen is known for its wine-growing and offers cozy wine taverns and vineyards serving local specialties and excellent wines. If you like, you can also stay overnight here or round off your visit with a wine tasting.

Best time to hike the Kaiserstuhl Trail

The trail is accessible year-round, but it does require a certain level of basic fitness, not least because of the sometimes steep ascents and the varying elevation profile.

The Kaiserstuhl is considered one of the warmest regions in Germany. Even in spring, you need to be prepared for strong sunlight: sunscreen, a sun hat, and plenty of drinking water should be packed in your backpack. You can refill your water bottles along the way, for example at a restaurant in Bickensohl. Along the way, there are sunken paths that provide shade, as well as numerous benches and picnic areas in shaded spots. The sections of the trail through the forest (such as the northern half of the route) are pleasantly shaded, though the climbs make them more strenuous than the southern section.

Practical Tips for Your Hike on the Kaiserstuhl Trail

Safety and Equipment

• Footwear: Sturdy hiking boots with good traction, as some sections are steep or rocky.
• Water: It gets very hot in the summer, especially on the south-facing trails. Be sure to bring plenty of water!
• Sun protection: A hat and sunscreen are essential.
• Check the weather: Some trails are slippery when wet, and fog can severely limit visibility.
• Don't forget your first aid kit

Getting there

• Public Transportation: Endingen and Ihringen are both easily accessible by train, making the Kaiserstuhl Trail ideal for a round-trip hike without a car. Trains depart every 30 minutes from Freiburg Central Station and from Breisach.

Places to Stop for Refreshments

• In Endingen, Bickensohl, and Ihringen, there are wine taverns, wine bars, and restaurants.

Book Recommendations for the Kaiserstuhl

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

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Der Beitrag Auf dem Kaiserstuhlpfad – Wandern zwischen Reben und Vulkanen erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Japan. Hokkaido, Japan’s northernmost island, is a worthwhile destination for wildlife photographers in winter. The eastern part of the island, in particular, is known for its rich wildlife. Here, you can watch Manchurian cranes performing their elegant dances, photograph Steller’s sea eagles catching fish, spot whooper swans at hot springs, and discover red foxes in the frosty landscape. Sika deer are also fascinating to watch, and in some places can even be seen right by the roadside. In the following article, I’ll share my experiences from my winter trip to Hokkaido’s best wildlife spots and provide practical tips for planning your own trip.

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The Red-crowned Cranes – Dancers in the Snow

West of the port city of Kushiro lies the Kushiro Shitsugen Marsh. It is Japan’s largest wetland, a UNESCO Ramsar Site, and perhaps the most famous spot for wildlife watching in Hokkaido. In winter, it looks like a white labyrinth of frozen river branches and snow grass. This is exactly where the red-crowned cranes (Grus japonensis)migrate in winter. They are one of Japan’s most famous symbols and were the main reason for my trip to Hokkaido.

Am Tag nach der Ankunft begrüße ich unseren Guide von PicchioThe day after we arrive, I greet our guide from Picchio. Our small group sets off for the Kushiro Wetlands in a small Mitsubishi van. It’s snowing, and we crawl along the country road at 40 km/h. Do we even stand a chance of seeing cranes in this weather? But our guide is confident.

First, we stop by the On’nenai Visitor Center and trudge along snow-covered wooden walkways through the marshland, where cranes also nest in the summer. Then I see my first crane—as a cardboard model in the exhibit. I’m impressed—it’s huge! Fully grown, these birds can reach up to 1.60 meters in height and have a wingspan of up to 2.50 meters. I’m getting impatient and can hardly wait to get to the observation point and finally see a real crane.

Winter Feeding of the Red-crowned Cranes

When I watch cranes in Germany, I have to be careful. Given their long flight distance, the birds would otherwise quickly disappear with their thunderous trumpeting calls. Here in Kushiro, everything is completely different. I rest my camera on the wooden railing and start taking pictures. The red-crowned cranes fill my entire camera frame—they’re that close. There’s a lot of activity in front of the barrier: people come and go, chat, and take pictures. Behind the barrier, the cranes are the picture of calm. Snow is falling lightly, and the cranes are searching the ground for corn kernels, which are scattered twice a day in winter. The birds have learned that people stay behind the barrier and that they are fed by certain people. Three different feeding stations have been set up in the Kushiro wetlands for this purpose.

On my second day of observation, I was even able to witness the feeding. The birds arrive well in advance, prancing excitedly as their red headplates swell and display their vibrant color. The birds are by no means shy at these moments, and perhaps they don’t mind being photographed by dozens of photographers. After all, this allows them to tell their own story and share the great success of the species conservation efforts taking place here with the whole world.

You can learn more about the red-crowned cranes—how they were saved from extinction and where the best places are to observe them—in my separate article, Crane Observation in Hokkaido: Locations and Photo Tips.

Sika Deer – Winter Survivors

After a long day at the crane feeding stations, we head back to Kushiro. It’s still light out for a while, so we take the small, longer road right through the wetland. In the snow-covered landscape, we still spot a few cranes sneaking some livestock feed, and we stop at a horse pasture where a group of Hokkaido ponies—an ancient traditional breed—are braving the winter. After a few kilometers, the landscape changes; we’re surrounded by lakes and gnarled trees, and suddenly three sika deer are standing right in front of us on the road. In the twilight, we can only proceed slowly from here on out, as we keep seeing sika deer along the roadside. That evening, I would never have believed what awaited me later on the Notsuke Peninsula.

The sika deer (Cervus nippon yesoensis) is ubiquitous in Hokkaido and shapes both the island’s landscape and its culture. Originally a forest dweller, it has long since spread to open coastal regions and agricultural areas as well. Especially in winter, when the interior is covered in deep snow, many sika deer migrate to the coast. There, they feed not only on grasses and shrubs but also on washed-up seaweed and algae—an unusual but nutritious addition to their diet. The population is considered one of the largest in the world and continues to grow despite regulated hunting, leading to conflicts with forestry and agriculture. At the same time, the deer are deeply rooted in the Japanese understanding of nature, and these proud animals with their distinctive white patches can be observed in many regions of Hokkaido.

The Deer of the Notsuke Peninsula

As I stand on the narrow spit of land that is the Notsuke Peninsula, an icy wind blows in from the sea. Even on the approach road, I spot the first animals by the roadside, grazing calmly in the dry grass. Then I come across a larger group standing near the fishing gear and boats, right by the roadside. The deer seem accustomed to the presence of humans; they lift their heads, fix me briefly with alert eyes, and then return to feeding or playful sparring. It is particularly impressive to see them moving in small groups through the snow-covered, barren landscape, seemingly perfectly adapted to the harsh conditions of winter.

Read more about Wildlife and Landscapes in Winter on the Notsuke Peninsula

Red Foxes – Clever Cultural Followers

Hokkaido’s red foxes have particularly bushy fur in winter. This makes them look much larger than the foxes back home. And they are far less shy. I soon figure out why that might be: The foxes running along the roadside are repeatedly fed from passing cars. One fox goes about it with particular determination. He sits down at the roadside, waits until a car stops, and then walks expectantly straight to the driver’s side, where he’s tossed a snack through the open window. It doesn’t take long for traffic chaos to ensue. More cars stop, people run into the street, and while the fox poses coquettishly, some other drivers who want to keep going curse. One grows impatient and weaves his way through the crowd of people and the animal at an unreasonably high speed. So much was going wrong here, and I’m glad when the fox slinks away and the cars start rolling again.

The red fox (Vulpes vulpes schrencki) is widespread throughout Hokkaido and hard for visitors to miss. These animals, with their thick, reddish-brown fur, often roam across fields, forest edges, and even through villages and towns in the early morning or at dusk. They are adaptable and, in addition to natural prey such as mice, birds, and insects, also scavenge for scraps or food offered by humans. However, this proximity carries risks. Many foxes also suffer from parasites such as the fox tapeworm, which is why direct contact should be avoided. These curious, alert animals, with their bushy tails and graceful demeanor, hold a great fascination and are a quintessential part of the natural experience in Hokkaido for many travelers.

Eagles – Rulers of the Skies

The journey continues to the Shiretoko Peninsula in northeastern Hokkaido. The mountains and coastlines here are part of one of Japan’s wildest regions and attract hikers with their pristine forests, waterfalls, and sweeping views of the Sea of Okhotsk. At the same time, the area is home to many Ussuri brown bears. Hikers are therefore advised to wear bear bells, store food securely, and check for recent sightings and safety guidelines before setting out on a hike. Even in winter, encounters can occur, as not all bears hibernate continuously here. However, it is far more likely to encounter one of the kings of the skies here in winter: the Steller’s sea eagle.

In winter, unusually large numbers of Steller’s sea eagles (Haliaeetus pelagicus) and white-tailed sea eagles (Haliaeetus albicilla)gather along the coast of Hokkaido. Steller’s sea eagles breed in the summer primarily along the coasts of Eastern Siberia, particularly in Kamchatka and the Kuril Islands, and migrate south to Hokkaido in the winter, where the sea does not become covered in drift ice until mid-February. According to estimates, several thousand individuals spend the winter in Hokkaido—nearly a third of the global population. Many Steller’s sea eagles, which have a vast breeding range stretching from Scandinavia to the Far East, also overwinter in Hokkaido. Both species benefit from the abundant fish stocks around the Shiretoko Peninsula, making the area one of the world’s best spots for observing sea eagles. You’ll easily spot them by scanning the tall trees along the coast or simply gazing up at the sky for a while. The best spots for spotting them are around Utoro, Rausu, on the Notsuke Peninsula, as well as near Lake Furen and Nemuro..

Boat Tour to See the Eagles

Early in the morning, the port of Rausu still lies sleepy beneath its blanket of snow. Only a few birdwatchers, bundled up warmly, gather in front of the tour boat to see the white-tailed eagles. We don’t have to go far to see them. Already perched on the outer wall of the harbor, several Steller’s sea eagles and white-tailed sea eagles watch our boat as it departs. They’re getting ready for breakfast. Lured by the fish, dozens of eagles soon circle above our ship, diving down and snatching one fish after another with their powerful talons.

Whooper Swans – Elegant Winter Visitors

On the way to Lake Kussharo, winter is relentless, and we cross the Bihoro Pass with the utmost caution. Upon arriving in Kusshar, the roads were deeply snow-covered, but our car takes us to the lake without difficulty. Snow and a biting wind sweep across the shore. I get my camera ready, slip it into a waterproof bag, and venture out. Will the swans even be here in this weather?

But after just a few meters, I spot a good two dozen birds, showing off their best side to a few weather-proofed observers. As I crouch behind a wall to shelter from the wind, the whooper swans stretch their long necks with full elegance, as if the weather doesn’t affect them at all. It soon becomes clear to me why so many birds gather here. It’s not just the warm water from the hot springs that keeps this section of Sunayu Onsen ice-free, but also the winter feeding that makes the eastern shore of Lake Kussharo so popular. Grain feed is scattered with large spoons, and the swans swimming farther away hurry over so they don’t miss out. In the midst of the spectacle, the sky clears a bit, and the mountains on the opposite shore of the lake provide a striking contrast to the swans’ white plumage.

Lake Kussharo as a Wintering Ground

Lake Kussharo in eastern Hokkaido serves as an important wintering ground for whooper swans (Cygnus cygnus). Due to geothermal activity, some areas along the shore remain ice-free even during severe frosts, allowing the birds to find food and rest there. Every year, several hundred to over a thousand birds spend the cold season at the lake before returning to their breeding grounds in Siberia in the spring. The swans feed primarily on aquatic plants, but in areas developed for tourism, they also accept food from visitors. Their presence makes Lake Kussharo one of the most famous winter bird-watching spots in Japan. For visitors, there is a rest area here with a restaurant and souvenir shop. Another good spot for observing whooper swans is at Lake Tofutsu near the Hakucho Park Visitor Center.

One Last Look in the Evening

As I stand on the shore of Lake Kussharo in the evening, I say goodbye to the swans and to Hokkaido’s wild nature. Tomorrow I’ll head back to Kushiro, and the day after that, via Tokyo, back to Berlin. A flock of swans flies past me, their calls echoing through the crisp winter air. Behind me, steam rises from the hot springs. The greatest threat to many wild animals in Hokkaido is the loss of their habitat. Agriculture, urbanization, and climate change are rapidly altering ecosystems. At the same time, interest in wildlife tourism is growing, which can lead to disturbances when visitors approach the animals without consideration. Conservation efforts focus on designating protected areas and implementing regulated feeding programs.

Kushiro, Notsuke, Shiretoko, Kussharo: These are places that are not just landscapes, but tell stories about the coexistence of humans and animals—about conservationists who carry out feeding programs, about fishermen who make their living from the sea, about nature tourists and wildlife photographers who share their experiences and bring Hokkaido’s wildlife to life for the world.

The Responsibility of Photographers and Nature Tourists

As a wildlife photographer, you bear a special responsibility for the protection of wild animals. Any disturbance can affect the animals’ behavior—whether it’s a startled crane abandoning its brood or a stressed deer wasting energy it desperately needs for the winter. You must always maintain a sufficient distance so as not to interfere with the animals’ natural behavior. Slowing down and being patient are crucial here: those who remain calm and do not startle the animals will be rewarded with authentic, natural shots.

It is equally important to follow the rules of the nature reserves. Trails and marked photo spots exist for a reason—they are placed to minimize disturbance to wildlife. Wildlife photography in Hokkaido is a unique experience that yields breathtaking images and unforgettable encounters. But to preserve this beauty, photographers must act as ambassadors for nature: with respect, knowledge, and an awareness of animal conservation.

Book Recommendations for Hokkaido and Wildlife Photography

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

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Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love wildlife watching as much as I do? Then you’ll definitely be interested in my article Birdwatching for Beginners - with Binoculars in Search of Happiness and my article Storks, Cranes & Co - Birdwatching around the "Stork Village" Linum.

Der Beitrag Wildlife Fotografie auf Hokkaido – Guide zu den besten Winter-Locations erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Romania. The morning is quiet in Breb. Fog hangs in the valley, and smoke rises from the chimneys of the timber-framed farmhouses. John, my host, proudly shows me his own distillery. In a shed resembling a cowshed, he produces traditional Țuică here. Like almost everyone here in Maramures, which is arguably one of the most remote regions in the country. Maramures is known for its UNESCO-listed wooden churches, the “Merry Cemetery,” and its traditional crafts. Most people visit the area in the fall, during harvest season. I, on the other hand, am drawn to experiencing Maramures in the winter.

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Surrounded by Mountains

Maramures is located in the far north of Romania and is surrounded by the Eastern Carpathians. From the Rodna Mountains in the southeast of Maramures, Pietrosul Rodnei—at 2,303 meters, the highest peak in the Eastern Carpathians—looks down upon the valley basin. To the north and northeast, along the border with Ukraine, stretch the sparsely populated Maramures Mountains. It is precisely this mountainous location that has allowed many old traditions, architectural styles, and customs to survive in Maramures to this day. Winters used to be long and harsh, with snowfalls sometimes cutting off roads and villages from the outside world for days on end. But climate change is making itself felt: In the winter of 2024/25, there was almost no snow at all.

The landscape itself is one of rugged beauty: Dense spruce, fir, and beech forests characterize large parts of the region; at higher elevations, alpine meadows are home to gentian, arnica, and wild berry bushes. In spring and summer, species-rich mountain meadows bloom, while winter creates a quiet expanse. The fauna is equally impressive: brown bears, wolves, and lynx roam the forests, red deer and roe deer graze at the forest edges, and golden eagles and other birds of prey circle above the valleys.

The wild heart of the region is the Maramures Mountain National Park, which, at over 150,000 hectares, is one of Romania’s largest national parks. But even here, the wilderness is not safe. In recent decades, Romania has repeatedly faced criticism for illegal logging. Entire slopes disappeared as logging companies used chainsaws to penetrate deeper into the forests than was permitted. The EU has issued multiple warnings to Romania because protected areas were not being consistently monitored.

Wooden Houses, wooden Gates, and wooden Churches in Maramures

Wood is the material that defines Maramures like nothing else. Houses, fences, gates, and entire churches here are carved, doweled, and assembled. The most famous examples are the wooden churches. Eight of them are officially designated as UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Each one is unique. In winter, they look even more impressive: the tall, pointed towers pierce the gray sky like spears, and when you step inside, every beam creaks.

I visit the wooden church in Desești, a smaller but colorful place of worship. Frescoes dance across the walls, depicting the Last Judgment: angels guiding souls, devils devouring them. These churches are not only places of worship but also community centers and testaments to centuries-old craftsmanship. The Bârsana Monastery, in particular, remains etched in my memory. Its wooden church with its slender towers rises beautifully above the slopes. Pilgrims come here even in winter. It is a place of faith and a total work of art made of wood, stone, and landscape. Equally impressive is the Peri Monastery in Săpânța, whose 78-meter-tall wooden church is considered the tallest wooden church in the world.

The traditional wooden architecture of the villages in Maramureș is among the most impressive examples of rural building traditions in Europe and reflects a centuries-old tradition of craftsmanship. Characteristic features include houses built entirely of wood, with steep shingle roofs that slope deeply downward to withstand the harsh winters of the Carpathian region. Particularly striking are the artistically carved wooden gates, which not only serve as entrances to the courtyard but also symbolize the family’s social status and identity. The largest and most elaborate wooden gates can cost up to 20,000 euros. They often feature ornamental motifs such as ropes, sun wheels, or trees of life, which promise protection and fertility. The region’s famous wooden churches, several of which are UNESCO World Heritage sites, also bear witness to the masterful combination of functionality, spirituality, and aesthetic appeal—a living heritage that is preserved to this day in many villages.

The “Merry Cemetery” of Săpânța

Wood also plays a central role at the famous “Merry Cemetery”—the Cimitirul Vesel—in Săpânța. Instead of somber gravestones, there are blue wooden crosses here. The crosses are made of wood, mostly oak, and hand-carved. At the top, they feature a relief or an image: someone baking bread, a farmer plowing, a man in a hat, a woman spinning, scenes from everyday life, but also scenes such as someone being run over by a car or struck by lightning. Below the image is a saying, a short poem, often with a touch of humor or irony. The background color is a deep blue, “Săpânta Blue,” accented with borders and ornaments in red, yellow, green, and white, all of which are uniquely designed.

I walk among the graves, looking at images of the deceased. I stop in front of a cross. It shows a woman at her loom. My guide translates:

“Here I rest, a weaver,
My husband drank a lot, but I forgave him.
Now I finally have my peace,
And hopefully he does too—somewhere.”

A few steps further:

“Here I rest beneath this cross, Pop Ion,
I lived 50 years with my vice: schnapps.
And when you pass by, don’t laugh too hard —
It was a fine drink, I swear to you!”

These verses reflect the village community—honest and often crude. They show who someone was, not who they should have been.

The Man Who brought Color to Death

Across from the church lies the grave of Stan Ioan Pătraș (1908–1977). It is adorned with the same vibrant colors he once infused into his life’s work. Pătraș was born in Săpânța in 1908, grew up in a simple farming family, and began carving wooden crosses as a young man. At first, they were plain, but in the 1930s, he had the idea of bringing some color to death with blue, red, and yellow. He carved scenes from the lives of the deceased and composed verses. In doing so, he broke with all conventions and laid the foundation for a unique cultural monument. Stan Ioan Pătraș founded the cemetery in the 1930s.

His art began to gain international attention in the 1960s. After Pătraș’s death, his student Dumitu Pop Tincu continued the work. Today, there are around 1,300 crosses here, each a small work of art and a brief biography.

The Merry Cemetery is a national monument and part of Romania’s UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage. Around 150,000 people visit it annually—pilgrims, tourists, and art lovers alike. There are also plans for a small museum where old grave crosses, which have been replaced by restored ones, will be displayed.

The tradition lives on. Today, Dumitu Pop Tincu, Pătraș’s student and successor, carries on the work. It takes two to three weeks to make a cross, and it costs around 2,300 euros. That’s a lot of money, considering the average monthly wage in this region is about 780 euros.

Crafts and Domestic Life

The long winter evenings are devoted to handicrafts. The wood-burning stove warms the living room, and colorful fabrics for ornate traditional costumes are created on the loom. People embroider, spin, and sew. Clothing, rugs, blankets, and tablecloths are made right at home, whether for personal use, as commissioned work, or for sale in the summer.

In Sârbi, a neighboring village of Breb, I see a watermill. Here, raw wool is processed using water power, and laundry is washed in an open-air whirlpool in the stream. In winter, however, the mills stand still, for everything is frozen and waiting for spring.

Traditional Costumes

Traditional clothing is part of one’s identity. Women wear white blouses with delicate embroidery, woolen aprons, and colorful headscarves. Men, on the other hand, wear black hats and vests, and thick sheepskin coats in winter. This clothing is not merely folklore for tourists; it is worn as a matter of course at church festivals and weddings and is carefully stored the rest of the year in a separate room: the dowry room. Since the textiles stored here were of crucial importance for a young woman’s dowry, this room was a source of pride, where handmade blouses, vests, and skirts, among other items, were displayed. The patterns are not random. They tell stories, bear protective symbols, and commemorate the ancestors.

Woodworking

Traditional woodworking in Maramureș is deeply rooted in the region’s everyday culture and is regarded as an expression of artisanal mastery and symbolic imagery. For generations, woodcarvers have used simple tools and time-honored techniques to create artistic functional and decorative objects from oak, spruce, or fir. I see carving horses—wooden benches into which the workpieces are clamped—in almost every yard. The richly decorated farm gates are a particularly well-known example of woodcraft. But furniture, spoons, spinning wheels, and roof shingles are also crafted with great care and often individually decorated. Knowledge of these techniques is mostly passed down within families, ensuring that woodworking remains a vibrant part of the regional identity to this day.

SIDE NOTE: Building Your Own Carving Horse (Advertisement) (Werbung)

’m passionate about working with wood and built my own carving horse in early 2026. It can even be taken apart into individual pieces, making it easy to transport. It’s a fantastic piece of equipment. The build was guided and organized by Christoph Maretzek from the Guide Academy Europe (GAE). . If you’d like to build one yourself, I highly recommend reaching out to him.

Self-Sufficiency

Many families are self-sufficient. In the summer, they pickle vegetables, smoke bacon, and distill fruit into schnapps. Every household has supplies that are carefully preserved. The standard of living may seem modest by Western standards, and incomes are significantly lower than those in Western Europe. Yet self-sufficiency fosters a sense of independence that has long since been lost in cities.

Horse-drawn carts or ox-drawn teams are a common sight on the roads. They bring hay or firewood to the farms. Almost every villager keeps animals: chickens roam freely, goats, cows, and pigs stay in the barns during the winter, and the sheep also remain near the farms during the cold season. They are joined by large, shaggy herding dogs, the Carpatin or Mioritic. They have been bred in the Carpathians for centuries. Their mission is clear: to protect the herds from bears and wolves.

Closing Remarks

Maramures in winter is not a bustling tourist destination. There are no ski slopes, most restaurants are closed, and sometimes you’re the only visitor of the day at a museum. Amid the scent of wood smoke, creaking church beams, and frozen streams, I experienced a region that has not forgotten its roots and embodies heartwarming hospitality. It’s not staged—it’s simply the way it is. Maramures is not a place for those in a hurry, but for visitors willing to immerse themselves in the silence, the crafts, the nature, and the people who live here.

Book Recommendations for Romania

Would you like to learn more about wildlife observation? Then I have three book recommendations for you. You can order the books* from Amazon by clicking on the images. If you buy a book or another article via an affiliate link, I will receive a small commission, and you will help me to continue to fill Wanderlust Motifs with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you.

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Recommendations for further Reading

Do you enjoy winter in Maramures? Then you’ll surely be interested in the following two articles:

Der Beitrag Winter in Maramures – Reise in den abgeschiedenen Norden Rumäniens erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Romania. The Danube Delta is known to many nature lovers as a birdwatching paradise. Many birdwatchers come here during the migration season or to observe the summer breeding season. However, the Danube Delta is hardly known as a winter destination. But it is precisely at this time of year that the mighty Dalmatian pelicans and Pallas's gulls show off their beautiful breeding plumage. The sparse winter vegetation also makes the animals easy to spot on the riverbanks. In addition to the Dalmatian pelicans, it was the chance to see golden jackals, raccoon dogs, and wildcats that drew me to this remote region.

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links.

The Water begins at the End of the Road

The evening in Tulcea feels like a transition between two worlds. From the city, also known as the “Gateway to the Danube Delta,” the only way to continue is by boat. We hoist our luggage into the small boat at the jetty. There is no one else at the harbor except us. It is raining. Everyone finds a place on the beanbags in the boat, pulls warm lambskin overshoes over their boots, and wraps themselves in the blankets provided. We get our cameras ready by the light of our headlamps. It is shortly before eight o'clock in the evening. Soon after we set off, all the lights of the city have disappeared, and only the red/green side lights of our boat bring some light into the darkness. Our guide scans the banks with night vision goggles for crepuscular and nocturnal animals. I, too, stare intently into the dark landscape and imagine I can make something out. After a while, I give up and just watch our guide, seeing which direction he points the night vision device and whether he raises his hand with the flashlight. Within the first hour of our boat trip to the village of Mila 23, we see two minks, two raccoon dogs, a tawny owl, and a deer.

There are only four of us, an unusually small group for a photography trip, accompanied by our guide from the nature tour operator Sakertours and our boatman. After about three hours on the boat, we reach our destination in Mila 23.

Danube Delta Biosphere Reserve

The Danube Delta Biosphere Reserve is a vast labyrinth of water and land on the border between Romania and Ukraine. The delta consists of countless lakes, canals, and islands at the end of the approximately 2,860 km long Danube River. Covering 5,800 square kilometers, it is the largest contiguous wetland and reed bed in Europe. The area is known as an Eldorado for birdwatchers, with 312 recorded bird species. Countless fish and mammal species find refuge in this mosaic of water and land, which has been designated a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and World Natural Heritage Site since 1991. The delta is also one of the last refuges for the European mink, the wildcat, the freshwater otter, and the globally endangered monk seal. Around 13,000 people live in small villages that can only be reached by boat. The main economic activities in the biosphere reserve are fishing, hunting, reed harvesting, livestock farming, subsistence farming, and tourism.

Mila 23 and Life in Winter in the Danube Delta

The small village of Mila 23 on the edge of one of the many canals looks more like a collection of boats than a settlement. There are no roads here, only wooden walkways, boats in front of the houses, and a few narrow paths. Many residents of the village, as well as the delta as a whole, belong to the Lipovan community, descendants of Russian Old Believers who found refuge here in the 18th century. Our guesthouse is family-run and impresses us over the following days with excellent local cuisine, which, as expected, offers plenty of fish from the waters on the doorstep.

In the weeks leading up to our trip, I had checked the weather forecast every day. What could I expect in winter in the Danube Delta? The forecast temperatures ranged from minus fourteen to plus fourteen degrees Celsius, with snow, ice, and true spring weather. Just the week before, there was snow on the ground, and the waterways were partially frozen. But now, at the beginning of February, the thermometer shows a few degrees above zero, the snow has disappeared, the ice has melted, and instead heavy clouds hang over the river and a fine drizzle alternates with heavy showers. Not the conditions photographers dream of, but perhaps exactly those that give a photo that certain atmosphere.

Winter is the off-season here in the Danube Delta. Most hotels and tourist attractions are closed, and visitors don't start arriving until April, when migratory birds stop over and the breeding season begins. But now the delta belongs almost exclusively to the locals and the animals. It is precisely this tranquility that makes it so appealing.

Golden Jackals from the Photo Hide

On two of the three days, our small photography group splits up. Two of us take the boat and search for water birds, while the other two move into a small photo hide at the edge of the reed belt. I can hardly wait to get into the hide and eagerly set up my camera. We are in luck: after just half an hour, two golden jackals appear, looking beautiful in their thick winter coats. They look like a cross between a fox and a small wolf. Golden jackals have spread rapidly in recent decades, as there is plenty of food and cover in the delta.

We are able to observe the five animals for over an hour. They are extremely shy in the open meadow and keep looking around in all directions, even up into the air. Probably not without reason. Two of the jackals have clearly visible old injuries, either from fights or traps: a partially severed tail, a partially missing front paw, an injured eye, and a bent ear testify to the enormous resilience and strength of these wild animals.

From our hiding place, we can observe other animals, including buzzards, a marsh harrier, gray herons, hooded crows, magpies, a gray woodpecker, and two pheasants.

Boat Trip in Rain and Fog

Our second day begins before sunrise again with strong coffee and a richly laid breakfast table. It is raining outside, and even after sunrise, it seems as if it will not get light today. We pull the tarpaulin over the boat and wrap ourselves in blankets. The further we go, the wider the river becomes, and then it divides into branches that branch out again until it seems impossible to find our way, and only walls of reeds pass by on the left and right. As the boat chugs slowly through the gray water, we keep an eye out for birds. First, we spot a little grebe, then pygmy cormorants, gray herons, coots, and great crested grebes. Later in the afternoon, the rain stops, and a veil of fog descends over the water.

Our return trip to our accommodation is a real blind flight in the fog. Sometimes we can barely see fifty meters ahead, and we can only move slowly. Great white egrets emerge like white ghosts from the gray soup, gray herons stand motionless on the shore, almost unnoticed, and great crested grebes disappear with a plop beneath the surface of the water. Although everything is damp and the light is dim, this is precisely when very atmospheric images emerge, with landscapes that resemble paintings rather than photographs.

Pelicans in their Breeding Plumage

Our last day is devoted entirely to the Dalmatian pelicans. Right at the start of the trip, we already see several young birds. After a short stop, we continue on our way, searching for the adult birds, whose shaggy head feathers and bright orange throat pouches look almost exotic in their breeding plumage. On a larger lake, we finally discover the silhouettes of several pelicans, huge birds with a wingspan of up to three meters.

With several thousand breeding pairs, the Danube Delta is home to one of the most important colonies in Europe, accounting for a significant proportion of the world's population. They remain in the area throughout the year. In spring, the Dalmatian pelicans are joined by pink pelicans, which breed in large colonies in the Danube Delta.

We brought the pelicans some fish, which gave us the opportunity to watch the animals feeding. The pelicans use their throat pouches as nets to scoop up fish and water. The water is then drained before the fish is swallowed. The throat pouch is extremely stretchy and can hold ten to twelve liters of water.

The Pallas's gull is named after the German naturalist Peter Simon Pallas (1741–1811), who first described the species in 1773. It is the largest gull with a black head (in breeding plumage) and the third largest gull species worldwide. The species is mainly found in the steppe lakes of Central Asia and the coastal regions of the Caspian Sea. The population in the Danube Delta is the westernmost occurrence.

Nighttime in the Danube Delta

Wildcats

Every evening, we spend several hours searching for crepuscular and nocturnal animals. The European wildcat lives in the vast Danube Delta with its dense riparian forest and numerous refuges. The animals usually remain invisible to visitors because they are not only nocturnal but also extremely shy. Wildcats avoid open areas, preferring to stay in dense riparian forests and reed beds, where they use hiding places such as fallen tree trunks or hollow trunks to protect themselves from disturbance during the day. They only go hunting after dusk.

Three times, our guide spots a wildcat on the shore with his night vision goggles. But in the glow of the flashlight, it quickly disappears. I only see the animal balancing on a branch for a brief moment and can only photograph its rear end with my camera.

Raccoon Dogs

I have often heard of raccoon dogs, but never seen one. So I am all the more delighted when we spot two animals during an evening boat tour. The raccoon dog is native to East Asia. Between 1928 and the 1950s, thousands of animals were released in Russia, Belarus, and Ukraine. The aim was to establish a new fur animal species for the hunting and fur industry. The animals proved to be adaptable, fertile, and prolific. From these populations, the raccoon dog migrated independently.

Farewell to the Danube Delta

Our return trip from Mila23 to Tulcea is another night journey. After a sumptuous three-course dinner, we make ourselves comfortable in the boat again and keep our cameras at the ready. We see several nutrias in the water, tawny owls, and mice swimming in the water. During the trip, fog rolls in again, and we can only chug slowly through the canals. A typical winter in the Danube Delta. I lean back in my beanbag, listen to the water lapping against the hull, and think about how rare such places have become in Europe.

Book Recommendations for Nature Lovers

Would you like to learn more about wildlife observation? Then I have three book recommendations for you. You can order the books* from Amazon by clicking on the images. If you buy a book or another article via an affiliate link, I will receive a small commission, and you will help me to continue to fill Wanderlust Motifs with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you.

Want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I am also very happy if you share my article with your friends.

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Recommendations for further Reading

If you like the Danube Delta in winter, then you will certainly be interested in the following articles:

Der Beitrag Donaudelta im Winter – Auf Fototour zu Goldschakalen und Pelikanen erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Germany. It is early December. The two-and-a-half-hour ferry crossing from Cuxhaven to Heligoland can be a wild ride at this time of year. But right now, something very special is attracting many nature lovers to Germany's offshore island: the birth season of the gray seals. From November to January, hundreds of gray seals are born on the flat sandy beaches of Heligoland Düne. It's a natural spectacle that is second to none.

I am spending three days on Heligoland to photograph the seals. I am hoping for one of those rare moments that nature photographers dream of: a birth. In the following, I will tell you about my time with the gray seals and give you lots of practical tips for your own photo trip to the seals on Heligoland Düne

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links.

New Life among the Gray Seals

The wind has a firm grip on the Heligoland dunes. Fine sand whips across the beach, drawing bright veils across the ground. The grains of sand hit me like tiny needles and crunch between my teeth. I am glad I have my safety goggles from the hardware store, which allow me to keep my eyes open without straining them. My gaze and my camera are fixed on a large gray seal that is behaving conspicuously nervously, not far from the barrier fence. After a few minutes of sand exfoliation, my suspicion is confirmed: her abdomen reveals a bulging red amniotic sac.

The female turns awkwardly onto her side, first one way, then the other. She bends like a banana, turns in circles, and tries to push the amniotic sac further out. The surrounding seals raise their heads, unimpressed. The offspring takes its time. For about 15 minutes, it hangs halfway out in the fresh North Sea wind of 7 Beaufort, while its mother twists and turns, bends and rolls in circles. All without making a sound, less than two meters away from the mobile barrier fence that separates visitors from the wild animals. All observers keep a respectful distance and watch. Also, without making a sound. Then suddenly everything happens very quickly, and a wet, yellowish bundle lies in the sand.

The little seal pup immediately opens its eyes and is sniffed and touched by its mother. Moments of closeness, simply beautiful to watch. Meanwhile, the crows jostle in front of the placenta before it cools down and is covered with sand. A wild feeding frenzy begins. The calf looks at the world with its big black eyes, somewhat irritated. Can it already see the crow right in front of it clearly? Can it see us photographers? Its first movements seem shaky, tentative. It takes a while for the little one to find the milk teats and for its fur to dry. Now it is no longer yellowish, but shows its beautiful white lanugo fur. A piece of the fresh umbilical cord still hangs from its belly.

Growth in Record Time – From a white Ball of Fur to Germany's Largest Predator

Seal pups are born weighing around 10 to 14 kilograms. Due to the fat content of their milk, which is more than 50 percent, the pups gain up to two kilograms per day and soon develop a thick, white layer of blubber. Some mothers stay with their calves permanently, while others leave their young alone for a few hours to go fishing. When the calves are weaned after 15 to 21 days, they are on their own. About ten days after weaning, their fur changes, and the white woolly coat is replaced by a swimming coat. Then come the first attempts at swimming, and the young seal begins to hunt instinctively.

On the beach, I see young animals that are only a few days old and others that have already become little rolls of blubber. They seem extremely clumsy on land, but are already very curious. They explore with their snouts, feel their way with their highly sensitive whiskers, and turn their heads toward every new sound.

Grey seals belong to the family of dog seals. Their range extends from Norway to the East Coast of America. The animals that come to Heligoland belong to the eastern North Sea population. They are the largest predators in Germany:

• Males can weigh up to 300 kilograms. They only reach their full strength at around eight years of age.
• Females remain significantly smaller, weighing between 150 and 200 kilograms.
• Young animals weigh between 10 and 14 kilograms at birth.
• The average life expectancy of a gray seal is 35 years.
• Gray seals can reach speeds of up to 20 km/h on land and up to 40 km/h in water.
• Estimates of the survival rate in the first year of life vary greatly depending on location and conditions, ranging from less than 50% to 85%. The main causes of death are often starvation or injury.

Deutschlands wohl stürmischste Kinderstube

Heligoland Dune is barely recognizable in winter. The summer vacationers are gone, leaving behind silence, wind, and Germany's largest gray seal colony. Every year starting in November, this beach becomes the most important birthplace for the eastern North Sea population of gray seals (Halichoerus grypus).Halichoerus grypus).

What appears to be a barren place is in fact a perfectly functioning nursery:

• Strict social distancing rules and barriers separate visitors from the animals.
• A wide beach that is never completely flooded.
• Vigilant rangers keep an eye on seal pups in need of help and keep an eye on visitors.
• Waters rich in fish.

The gray seals often lie close together. Therefore, the beaches are closed to humans. It is no longer possible to walk on the beach without disturbing the seals or risking a bite. However, you can still observe the animals:

There is a raised wooden boardwalk in the dunes on the north beach. From here, you have a good view of the north beach. Some of the seals lie very close to or high up in the dunes. Sometimes they even crawl across the panoramic trail.

The southern beach is accessible up to the Düne restaurant (closed in winter) at the upper edge; the rest of the beach is separated by a sturdy metal fence. The seals are also spread out across the entire beach up to the fence. Despite the fence, it is important to keep your distance here as well, otherwise the animals will become restless or too accustomed to humans. This can become a problem in the following bathing season when the seals, accustomed to humans, get too close to bathers.

A Look back at the History of Heligoland

Heligoland and the neighboring island of Düne only acquired their current shape and size during the Nazi era. In order to develop Heligoland as a strategic naval port, both islands were to be greatly enlarged as part of the Hummerschere project. To this end, large parts of the present-day island were filled in and fortified so that their shape and size were no longer subject to the influence of the tides. This created the northeast and south harbor areas on the main island, and Düne was enlarged many times over, and the airport was built.

Gray Seals in Germany – A Success Story

Grey seals used to be mercilessly hunted in the North Sea – for their fur, their meat, and because of the mistaken belief that they were decimating fish stocks. By the beginning of the 20th century, gray seals had been almost wiped out in German waters. In addition to hunting, environmental toxins also caused their numbers to decline dramatically. It was only with strict protection under the Federal Nature Conservation Act, international agreements, and the designation of the Heligoland FFH area with the Heligoland rock base that the population began to slowly recover.

Since the first gray seal birth on Heligoland in the winter of 1996/97, there has been a steady increase in the number of births. Today, Heligoland is the most important breeding ground for gray seals in Germany—and one of the few places in Europe where you can observe the birth of these animals without endangering them. Today, around 1,000 pups are born here every year – and the trend is rising.

Total number of gray seal births (source: Verein Jordsand e.V.):

– 2024/25: over 1,000 pups
– 2023/24: 850-900 pups
– 2022/23: 700-800 pups
– 2021/22: 670 pups
– 2020/21: 652 pups

Life in the Colony – Closeness and Distance

Wind blows sand across the beach, swirling around the animals like thin veils. But the seals seem unmoved by such moments: they close their eyes and let everything wash over them. There is a clear order among the adult animals: mothers keep their distance from each other, young animals lie scattered across a wide area, and males patrol the edges. Although the colony appears dense, the animals rarely touch each other.

The most common behaviors I observe are:

• Contact sounds between mother and pup, suckling, playful physical contact between pup and mother
• Protection of the pup from other seals
• Rearing up and threatening, especially between males, but also females, who attack each other if one comes too close.
• Mock attacks, which often consist only of a low head position and open mouth
• Bloody fights between the bulls
• The approach of the bulls to the females, because mating takes place immediately after weaning the young. Most of the time, the bulls are driven away, but I was able to observe mating twice.

Mating Season in Winter

While the young animals still lie awkwardly on the beach, the mating season begins for the adults. The males wait, observe, and show their presence. They keep a close eye on when one of their females is ready to mate. However, if the males approach the female too early, they are rudely rejected.

The stately bulls vehemently defend their harem (typically five to seven females) against intruders and competitors. Violent fights are rare – most rivalries are decided by body language, vocalizations, and mutual intimidation.

After successful mating, the fertilized egg enters a dormant period of around three months. Only then does the approximately eight-month embryonic development begin. This makes it possible for the birth to take place again in winter. By then, most females have built up enough energy reserves to nurse for several weeks.

The Moment that remains

As I leave the beach in the evening, the calf whose birth I witnessed is nestled close to its mother. Its fur is no longer wet and shines white. It looks around curiously, appearing full and content. The moment when the seal pup fell from the bursting amniotic sac onto the beach and lay there as a wet, helpless bundle in the sand-filled gusts of wind is burned into my memory.

Heligoland Dune shows its roughest side in winter. And at the same time it's most tender. New life grows here, and nature tells one of its oldest stories. Quiet. Wild. And every year anew.

How to behave around Gray Seals

Gray seals are Germany's largest predators and should be treated with respect and consideration. For the successful rearing of young animals and for your own safety, please note the following:

• Check with the rangers and staff of the Jordsands e.V. association about the current accessibility of the beaches and any restrictions in place.
• You may encounter seals outside the barriers. On freely accessible areas, be sure to keep a distance of 30 meters from the animals.
• Young animals that have been influenced by too close contact with humans can sometimes make safe and carefree swimming difficult in summer. They approach bathers fearlessly.
• Do not go near bull fights, as the animals can reach speeds of around 20 km/h on land and are particularly aggressive during the mating season.
• Do not block the animals' access to the water or from the water to land. Never get between a calf and its mother.
• Severe disturbances can permanently disrupt the sensitive bond between mother and calf, which can lead to high calf mortality in the first year of life.

Photography Tips for Gray Seals on Heligoland Dune

Access to the beach:

The beaches are largely closed during the breeding season. There is an elevated panoramic path on the north beach from which you can observe the seals, and on the south beach you can walk along the beach up to a metal fence separating it from the dune restaurant.

Perspective:

Since the gray seals lie on the ground, the best pictures are taken when you lie on the ground yourself. This is only possible on the south beach, where the metal fence is located.

Focal length:

I took most of the pictures with a 200-600 mm telephoto lens. Unfortunately, the lens end was too large in diameter, so I couldn't use the metal fence as a tripod substitute. However, I was still able to take good pictures, even close to the ground. The 100-400 mm lens would have been better suited. A standard lens is definitely worthwhile for photographing the landscape and the seals in their habitat.

Best time to travel:

The birthing season lasts from November to January. When I was on Heligoland Düne at the beginning of December, around 700 pups had already been born, and there were many different age groups. The best chance of seeing a birth is at the end of November.

Best time of the day:

I couldn't detect any different activity patterns among the gray seals throughout the day, but it is said that they are most active in the morning. In addition, the morning and evening are particularly beautiful because of the beautiful light. This allows you to take beautiful backlit shots in the morning

Sand and rain:

Sand blows most near the ground, and it is almost impossible to prevent it from getting on your camera. If you like, bring a protective cover and UV filter. A brush has proven useful for brushing off sand grains at the end of the day.

Food, warming up, toilet:

Bring everything you need for food and drink. Drinking water can be refilled in the toilets in the heated exhibition/lounge area at the ferry terminal. There are also power outlets and tables for lunch breaks.

Getting to the dunes:

The first dune ferry leaves at 8 a.m. at the beginning of December, and a round trip costs €6. More information here.

Book Recommendations for Nature Lovers

Would you like to learn more about wildlife observation? Then I have three book recommendations for you. You can order the books* from Amazon by clicking on the images. If you buy a book or another article via an affiliate link, I will receive a small commission, and you will help me to continue to fill Wanderlust Motifs with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you.

Want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I am also very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Der Beitrag Nachwuchs im Winterwind – Kegelrobben auf Helgoland-Düne erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

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Autumn in Finland's wild Taiga

Autumn begins early in eastern Finland. As early as September, the birch trees turn golden, the nights grow long, and the northern lights appear in the clear night sky. The bears prepare for their winter hibernation and eat their fill of blueberries to build up a thick layer of fat. I, on the other hand, prepare myself with my down jacket, sleeping bag, hat, and thermos for several cold nights in photo hides at four different locations in eastern Finland. Not every hide is equipped with heating. Most are simple wooden shacks or small huts, sometimes with a bed or bunk bed, or just a soft floor mat. Each one is unique in its own way, sometimes very cozy, sometimes a real pain in the neck.

Karhu-Kuusamo – Finland's northernmost Bear Photography Hide

When I arrive at the Karhu-Kuusamo meeting point, the forest is quiet. I park my car in a small space and watch a jay in the tree opposite. I look around and only when I am sure that there is no bear behind the next tree do I get out and point my camera at the raven. But it hears the two cars approaching ahead of me and takes off. It brought me luck – from now on, it would only be half an hour before I saw my first brown bear in the wild.

My first Photo Hide for viewing Bears near Kuusamo

The Karhu-Kuusamo observation hides are located about a 30-minute drive from Kuusamo and are the northernmost photo hides for bear viewing in all of Finland. The season lasts from early May to late September, and the sighting probability is 99%. The five hides are wooden huts of varying sizes overlooking a dark pool, a boggy swamp, and the forest beyond. I share a small hide with another visitor. The atmosphere is tense as we set up our cameras on the beanbags and our guide lays out treats for the bears outside, 20 to 60 meters away from the huts. It doesn't take long before I feel completely overwhelmed by the huge bear that suddenly appears at the edge of the forest. But the animals are smart; they know when the restaurant opens for them.

This first encounter with a wild brown bear in its natural habitat is a moment that stays with me for a long time. After a few minutes, the big guy disappears back into the dense forest, and I begin to settle into the photo hide. Then, almost hesitantly, a female with particularly light, shimmering blond fur appears at the edge of the forest. At her side is a cub, peeking cautiously out from behind its mother. Above them, several sea eagles sit in the treetops, waiting for their chance. Ravens circle the area, commenting on the spectacle with hoarse caws.

The Sky is wild, too

It's not just the forests that are wild in Finland – the sky is too. During my observations, I repeatedly saw white-tailed eagles circling above the clearings or sitting in the trees. The white-tailed eagle(Haliaeetus albicilla)is one of the largest birds of prey in Europe. It was once almost extinct, but thanks to consistent conservation measures, populations in Finland have recovered. Today, it can be found regularly on lakes and along the Baltic Sea coast – but it also occasionally appears inland, searching for carrion or fish.

Night in the Bear Forest

As darkness falls, our guide knocks on the door of the hut, which we have locked from the inside. For me, it's now time to move on to the largest of the observation huts, where I will spend the night. He himself will leave the area with the other guests. The thought of being alone in the middle of bear territory makes me a little nervous. I push my excitement aside and get my camera ready while there is still a little bit of light left. Just in time, because the big male bear is already coming back, looking for more pieces of fish. He comes within a few meters of the hut. I hear his footsteps in the muddy swamp, his panting, chewing, and suddenly a deep growl that sends shivers down my spine. I sit still, listen, and feel a rollercoaster of absolute fascination and goosebumps. It's a good thing the hide is so solid and sturdy.

Only when it is pitch black outside do I crawl into one of the four bunk beds. Surprisingly quickly, I fall into a deep sleep. Maybe it's the tiredness, maybe it's the security of the hide. In the morning, I leave the hut and lock the door from the outside. On the way to my car, I hum a song, hoping to scare away any bears on the way between the hut and my car.

For more information on bear watching from Finland's northernmost photo hide, visit the Karhu-Kuusamo website..

Wild Brown Bear Center – three Days with Bears and Wolverines

My journey continues south, where I have booked three days at the Wild Brown Bear Center near Vartius. A large observation hut and several small photo hides offer unobstructed views of the marsh, lake, and forest in the border region between Finland and Russia. There is even cell phone reception in the hides, and all guests are connected in a WhatsApp group. We want to use it to communicate sightings and the movements of wild animals, helping us to look in the right direction and not miss anything.

At around 4 p.m., we set off for the hides, which are about 700 meters away and designed for one to two people. There is a bunk bed, chairs, sleeping bags, and a toilet bucket. I attach my tripod head to a wooden board at the viewing slit, settle in, and wait for a bear to appear.

A Wolverine says Hello

The first evening in the hide remains quiet and without sightings. After an equally quiet night, I pack up my camera equipment and am about to leave the hide. A dark brown body darts out of the shadows and runs along the opposite shore of the lake. Just as quickly as it appeared, it disappears again. Gulo gulo, known in English as the wolverine or bear marten, is one of the rarest predators in Europe. Gulo gulo, zu Deutsch Vielfraß oder auch Bärenmarder, ist einer der am seltensten beobachteten Beutegreifer Europas.

We wait, hoping that the wolverine will reappear. Unfortunately, to no avail. At 8 a.m., the agreed time, we guests all leave our hiding places at the same time and meet in the common room for breakfast.

The next two days follow the same pattern: in the afternoon, after an early dinner, we head out to the hiding places, wait for the animals in the evening, spend the night in the hiding place, and return to base camp in the morning for breakfast. During the day, I go for walks in the area, photograph birds at the feeding station, or look through the photos from the previous evening in my room or the lounge.

An underrated Loner

While bears are the center of attention here, the wolverine often remains in the shadows. Unfairly so. With its muscular body, powerful jaws, and sharp claws, it moves effortlessly through the terrain. It is a scavenger, but also a hunter that can kill weakened reindeer, hares, or birds.

On the second day, I see the wolverine again and manage to take a photo of the nimble creature. But it is only later, quite a bit further south, at Erä-Eereo near Lieksa, that I am able to observe and photograph the wolverine at length. The night vision device I borrowed opens up a view into a dark, hidden world that is teeming with life. In addition to the wolverine, I also see wolves, a bear that immediately disappears back into the thicket, and various bird species such as ravens, jays, white-tailed eagles, and sparrowhawks. Read more in my separate article “Rendezvous in the forest – With the wolverine in Finland's wild taiga.”

The Bear comes to say Goodbye

On the last evening, I am back in another hide, looking out over a small lake surrounded by forest. The long-awaited bear arrives within the first hour. It is slightly smaller than the bears I saw in Kuusamo. It is a brief but wonderful and intense encounter, and afterwards I watch with great satisfaction as the sun sets behind the forest and darkness falls outside.

More information about bear watching can be found on the Wild Brown Bear Center website.

Wildlife Safaris Finland – A Paradise for Wildlife Photographers near Kuhmo

Paradise is the name of the third location where I am setting up a photo hide in Finland. It is one of 20 hides belonging to Wildlife Safaris Finland's Kuikka Base Camp, located in the border region with Russia. The station is run by renowned nature photographer Lassi Rautiainen, a pioneer of bear photography in Europe. Although the border crossings between Finland and Russia are currently closed, there is no border fence up here, unlike in southern Finland. Bears and wolves pass through unhindered, as they always have. Visitors who want to come to this border region must register their stay with the Finnish authorities in advance, which the tour operator does a few days before arrival.

Before heading out to the hide, I cook some pasta outside at the picnic area with my Trangia stove. Freshly fortified, I pack my thermos, sandwiches, camera equipment, and sleeping bag. At around 4 p.m., our guide drives ahead through the forest. We guests follow in our own cars to “Paradise,” a row of huts on the edge of a huge grassy plain flanked by pine, spruce, and birch forests. The landscape shimmers in shades of yellow and ochre – autumn is unmistakably on its way.

There is no light or electricity out here. Luxury here means being close to nature. This is the smallest hut I have ever stayed in. I can't stand up here, but I can lie comfortably on a soft foam mat and take photos from a worm's-eye view or sit upright on a chair. In the vestibule there is a toilet bucket, separated from the realm of the bears only by a tarpaulin. I have never been so alert when going to the toilet. Our guide explains how to use the gas stove (there is still a little bit of luxury) and then goes outside to scatter pieces of fish and dog food pellets on the meadow. With his quad bike and trailer, he takes a pig carcass further away from the huts. Attracted by the food, it doesn't take long for the first bear to appear. Shortly after him, the wolves enter the scene. Ravens settle down all around, cawing loudly.

When the Wolf shows up

Well camouflaged in the tall grass, I see my first wolf in Finland. Shortly afterwards, a second one appears, then a third. Over the course of the evening, I count seven young wolves, accompanied by their mother. The adolescents romp across the clearing, playfully wrestling and snapping at their siblings, storming through the meadow like exuberant teenagers. Two of the young wolves come very close to the huts and search for dog food pellets in the tall grass. I watch them spellbound, and every now and then, one of them looks directly into my camera. What I would give to be able to read wolves' minds. By 10 p.m., it is finally so dark that I can no longer see anything. I crawl into my sleeping bag. Outside, I hear the wilderness continuing to live.

I wake up with the first light of dawn. The wolves are already awake too; I can see them in the distance, just before the edge of the forest. Now they are all together, resting next to a tree trunk. I wish they would come back to the huts, but unfortunately, it's in vain. With a heavy heart, I pack my things and say a very grateful goodbye to “Paradise.” What I didn't know that morning was that in a few days, I would see wolves again at Erä-Eereo near Lieksa.

More information is available on the Wildlife Safaris Finland website.

Responsibility of Photographers

As a wildlife photographer, you have a great responsibility towards the animals you want to photograph. Even though the photo hides with their small viewing windows are designed to disturb the animals as little as possible, you must be aware of the possible effects. Therefore, each of the photo hides has its own rules, which must be strictly observed by every guest. Failure to comply can not only disturb or scare away the animals, but also pose a danger to life and limb. Before entering the hide, ask the operator for instructions, ask questions if anything is unclear, and familiarize yourself with the area and the behavior of the animals beforehand.

Nature photographers are automatically ambassadors for nature and conservation. High-quality images can help raise awareness of the need to protect these animals and generate positive attention for the preservation of wilderness areas. Ultimately, nature photography and wildlife tourism also bring additional income to the region and strengthen the acceptance of large predators among the population. For example, the illegal killing of wolves in Kuhmo has decreased thanks to wildlife tourism, as local people have come to understand how important living wolves are.

Proper Behavior when photographing Wildlife from a Hide in Finland

• Be quiet, ideally prepare everything for the evening/night so that everything is ready to hand. Avoid opening loud Velcro fasteners or zippers. Set your cell phone to silent mode.
• No loud crackling food packaging – ask if bringing food is allowed at all.
• Set your camera to silent mode (in some hides, photography with loud SLR cameras is even prohibited).
• Do not use flash, headlamps, or other lights outside or inside the hide.
• No additional attractants or food outside the controlled areas.
• No strong-smelling food, perfumes, or mosquito repellent.
• Wear dark clothing to avoid reflections on the viewing glass.
• Do not let camera parts hang out of the hide.
• No sudden movements.
• No dogs allowed.
• Do not leave the hide until the agreed time.

A Place that transforms

Every night in the photo hide in Finland's wild east brought unforgettable encounters and new experiences. If you want to observe animals in the wild, you have to adapt to the rhythm of nature. That means long periods of waiting, silence, and then the big moment. The observation huts are simple, cramped, and not very comfortable. But what they lack in comfort is more than made up for by the proximity to the animals and the intensity of the observations. You sit there, looking outside, camera at the ready, and then suddenly a wolf, bear, wolverine, or eagle comes into view.

The time spent in the photo hides has changed my awareness of wild animals. After the physical proximity, the personal experience leaves me with a psychological closeness to bears, wolves, wolverines, and eagles, and I carry the experiences of these days in the taiga like a little treasure in my memory. I had taken many, many pictures and was already looking forward to seeing the animals again at home on my sofa.

More Information about the Animals

Metsähallitus Parks & Wildlife Finland: https://www.largecarnivores.fi/species/wolverine.html

IUCN Red List: https://www.iucnredlist.org/species/9561/45198537

Book recommendations for Finland

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Der Beitrag Finnlands wilder Osten – Bären, Wölfe und Vielfraße aus Fotoverstecken beobachten erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Finland. It is dark. I am alone in my small photography hideout in the middle of the Finnish taiga. Only the gas stove burns quietly in the background. But then – a smacking sound breaks the nighttime silence. It is quite close. I get up and quietly switch on the night vision device that is tucked into one of the window slits. A wolverine. Less than five meters away, a massive, muscular, thick-furred fur, individual raindrops glistening on the tips of its hair. Its powerful teeth tug at a piece of meat that it holds with one paw. It looks up briefly, its eyes white in the night vision device, staring at me. Goosebumps run down my spine. Then it continues eating. Shortly afterward, the chattering of a family of mallards fills the darkness.

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links.

Autumn in the wild Taiga

I am traveling through the Finnish taiga, near Lieksa in the east of the country. It is autumn, the time of ruska, when birch trees glow golden and the moors shine in all shades of red. The nights are already quite cold, and there are no more mosquitoes. Mushrooms are sprouting, lingonberries and blueberries are ripe, and end up in my cereal every morning. Today, my path takes me along gravel roads deep into the dense forest to the base camp of Eero Kortelainen, alias Erä-Eero. Keljänpuro Lodge is an old logger's cabin from the 1950s that was renovated by Eero himself. Eero initially offered various outdoor activities here, and since 2005 he has also been offering wildlife viewing. Over the years, Erä-Eero has become known as the world's best place to observe wolverines, a shy and rare animal that is difficult to observe in the wild. There are observation huts and photo hides at various locations, where I have settled in for the next two nights.

Welcome to Erä-Eraeo

I am warmly welcomed with steaming coffee. Keljänpuro Lodge is rustic and cozy, and the animal pictures on the walls make me want to set off on a wildlife viewing trip right away. But first, Sini gives me a briefing. I learn more about the hides, the rules to follow there, and how my evening and the next morning will unfold. Then I borrow a pair of night vision goggles and pack my snack box and thermos flask into my car. Eero and Sini drive ahead, and I follow in my own car. After about six kilometers, we pass a barrier and park our cars in front of a small wooden hut at Uuronlampi, a beautiful moorland lake surrounded by high hills.

I climb out, excited. The wooden hut is a luxurious observation hut with large windows, comfortable armchairs, and a stove. From here, you can look down a slope to a meadow, behind which lies a small lake. To the right are three small photo hides, and to the left of the meadow is the forest. As I am the only guest, I have free choice and select the rear photo hide with a view of the lake and meadow. While Eero and Sini lay out food to attract the animals, I settle into my hide. The cameras are quickly put in position, and the bed and two chairs are covered with all sorts of stuff. It takes a while to get everything in the right place for the night, so that I can find it even in the dark. Because at night, the lights stay off. Otherwise, I'll scare away the wild animals. I turn on the small gas stove and inspect the toilet bucket behind the curtain. Everything you need is there.

Encounters in the Dark

No sooner have Eero and Sini disappeared in their car than calm returns. Only ravens and jays can be heard, their cawing echoing across the lake. After a while, a dark shadow flits across the scene. The wolverine. Broad-built, crouched low, with flowing, powerful movements. The white-tailed eagle watches everything from a safe distance from the top of a pine tree. I hadn't expected it to appear so quickly and enjoy watching it through my camera.

At dusk, three young wolves appear at the edge of the forest. Curious, but cautious, and with their tails tucked between their legs. They watch the wolverine, but remain at a safe distance. The wolverine is unimpressed by the wolves and continues to eat. The wolves retreat.

Later, when night has fallen over the forest, the night vision device reveals a new world: animals with white, ghostly eyes roam the darkness. I can watch the three wolves for a long time. Even without the wolverine, they are very cautious. They probably know who is coming: two large, white eyes are getting closer and closer out of the dark forest – a bear! The wolves run away, and the bear also disappears silently into the thicket. Around midnight, I turn off the stove and go to sleep.

Dawn and Bear Tracks

In the morning, the wolverine is sitting in front of the hut again, searching for the remains of the evening. I pour myself some coffee—lukewarm, but better than nothing. After the wolverine has retreated into the dense forest, I pack up and walk up the slope to my car. I sing a song quietly so that no animals in the vicinity are frightened by my sudden appearance. Only now do I notice the huge pile of bear droppings on the road. I hurry to my car and drive back to the log cabin.

A typical Finnish breakfast awaits me at base: coffee, juice, porridge with fresh cloudberries, eggs, and Karjalanpiirakka , which are Karelian pies filled with rice pudding. Delicious! I recount my observations and am still quite excited. While my batteries are charging at the solar-powered charging station, I am already looking forward to my second night of observation.

Species Portrait: The Wolverine – Gulo gulo, the “Bear Marten”

While bears and wolves take center stage in eastern Finland, the wolverine usually remains in the shadows. But Gulo gulo, the “bear marten,” is a fascinating loner. It is the largest member of the marten family and one of the rarest predators in Europe. Its stocky, muscular body, broad skull, and thick, oily fur make it perfect for life in the snow and cold. Adult males can weigh up to 32 kilograms, with males significantly heavier than females. Despite its size, the wolverine is a skilled climber and a tireless wanderer that can cover long distances. Its diet consists of carrion, small mammals, birds, and occasionally reindeer. In winter in particular, it moves skillfully across the snow, making many other animals easy prey. It stores food, which it hides under snow or moss. This may be why it is also known as the glutton, greedy stomach, or gluttonous throat.

Wolverine Population in Finland

The Finnish wolverine population numbers around 400 individuals and has spread further south from its traditional range in eastern and northern Finland. The wolverine has been strictly protected in Finland since 1982. Thanks to this consistent protection and scientific monitoring, the population has slowly stabilized. Compared to the early 1990s, the wolverine population has increased about tenfold. Monitoring is carried out using camera traps, DNA samples from hair and feces, and reports from local wildlife observers. Nevertheless, the population remains fragile: the animals need huge territories of up to 730 square kilometers in largely unbroken landscapes, which have become rare in Europe.

Myths and Legends

In the traditional worldview of the Sami, nature is not merely a backdrop, but is animated: animals, stones, rivers, and mountains possess their own “personhood.” This animistic belief, in which every living thing has spiritual significance, continues to shape Sami culture to this day.

Der Vielfraß – auf Nordsamisch gearpmát The wolverine – called gearpát in Northern Sami – occupies a special place in this belief system. Although it appears less frequently in traditional stories than, for example, the bear (guovža) or the raven (ráibár), in many regions of Lapland it is considered an animal to be treated with respect and caution. In older traditions, its name was sometimes paraphrased or avoided because it was believed that saying it aloud could bring bad luck – a taboo that also existed for other powerful wild animals.guovža) oder der Rabe (ráibár), gilt er in vielen Regionen Lapplands als ein Tier, das man mit Respekt und Vorsicht behandelt. In älteren Überlieferungen wurde sein Name teils umschrieben oder vermieden, da man glaubte, das Aussprechen könne Unglück bringen – ein Tabu, das auch bei anderen mächtigen Wildtieren bestand.

In northern Scandinavian folklore, the wolverine is considered the epitome of endurance, cunning, and independence. It represents a force that cannot be tamed – a creature that finds food even in the depths of winter and defies even stronger animals. In stories from Lapland and northern Norway, it is described as a tireless wanderer that knows no fixed boundaries and survives in the wilderness where others fail.

Conflicts with Reindeer Herding

Despite its small overall population, the wolverine is the most significant cause of damage to reindeer in Fell Lapland, especially since there is a strict ban on hunting wolverines. On the other hand, the forest wolverine has spread outside the reindeer herding area without harming or disturbing humans.

These facts are taken into account in the wolverine population management plan, which divides the distribution area into three regions: the northern and eastern reindeer herding area, the rest of the reindeer herding area, and the forest area of Finland. The key measures set out in the management plan relate to strengthening the wolverine population outside the reindeer herding area, reducing the damage caused by wolverines to reindeer, and improving methods for monitoring the wolverine population. The connection between the wolverine populations and those in Scandinavia and Russia should also be maintained.

Nevertheless, the majority of reindeer herders support the presence of large predators in reindeer herding areas, provided that the damage they cause is compensated and predator populations are controlled. However, in order to receive this compensation, the killed reindeer must first be found. To this end, the reindeer are fitted with tracking collars that switch on when the animal stops moving, enabling the herders to locate the carcasses. To prevent damage caused by large predators, some reindeer herders have also started fencing in their reindeer during the winter months.

Back in the Forest with the Wolverine

I saw the wolverine again during my second stay in the observation hut. The wolves and ravens were also back. That evening, I watched the animals around my hut a little longer. I was so glad I was able to borrow the night vision goggles. Otherwise, I would have had no idea what was going on around me. The next morning, in daylight, the scene is completely different, another world. Once again, I sing a quiet song as I leave the scene of last night. At the top of the slope, I look back again, wondering if there might be someone else there who wants to say goodbye.

More Information about the Animals

Metsähallitus Parks & Wildlife Finland: https://www.largecarnivores.fi/species/wolverine.html

IUCN Red List: https://www.iucnredlist.org/species/9561/45198537

Book recommendations for Finland

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I am also very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Der Beitrag Rendezvous im Wald – Bei dem Vielfraß in Finnlands wilder Taiga erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.