Japan. Hokkaido, Japan’s northernmost island, is a worthwhile destination for wildlife photographers in winter. The eastern part of the island, in particular, is known for its rich wildlife. Here, you can watch Manchurian cranes performing their elegant dances, photograph Steller’s sea eagles catching fish, spot whooper swans at hot springs, and discover red foxes in the frosty landscape. Sika deer are also fascinating to watch, and in some places can even be seen right by the roadside. In the following article, I’ll share my experiences from my winter trip to Hokkaido’s best wildlife spots and provide practical tips for planning your own trip.

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The Red-crowned Cranes – Dancers in the Snow

West of the port city of Kushiro lies the Kushiro Shitsugen Marsh. It is Japan’s largest wetland, a UNESCO Ramsar Site, and perhaps the most famous spot for wildlife watching in Hokkaido. In winter, it looks like a white labyrinth of frozen river branches and snow grass. This is exactly where the red-crowned cranes (Grus japonensis)migrate in winter. They are one of Japan’s most famous symbols and were the main reason for my trip to Hokkaido.

Am Tag nach der Ankunft begrüße ich unseren Guide von PicchioThe day after we arrive, I greet our guide from Picchio. Our small group sets off for the Kushiro Wetlands in a small Mitsubishi van. It’s snowing, and we crawl along the country road at 40 km/h. Do we even stand a chance of seeing cranes in this weather? But our guide is confident.

First, we stop by the On’nenai Visitor Center and trudge along snow-covered wooden walkways through the marshland, where cranes also nest in the summer. Then I see my first crane—as a cardboard model in the exhibit. I’m impressed—it’s huge! Fully grown, these birds can reach up to 1.60 meters in height and have a wingspan of up to 2.50 meters. I’m getting impatient and can hardly wait to get to the observation point and finally see a real crane.

Winter Feeding of the Red-crowned Cranes

When I watch cranes in Germany, I have to be careful. Given their long flight distance, the birds would otherwise quickly disappear with their thunderous trumpeting calls. Here in Kushiro, everything is completely different. I rest my camera on the wooden railing and start taking pictures. The red-crowned cranes fill my entire camera frame—they’re that close. There’s a lot of activity in front of the barrier: people come and go, chat, and take pictures. Behind the barrier, the cranes are the picture of calm. Snow is falling lightly, and the cranes are searching the ground for corn kernels, which are scattered twice a day in winter. The birds have learned that people stay behind the barrier and that they are fed by certain people. Three different feeding stations have been set up in the Kushiro wetlands for this purpose.

On my second day of observation, I was even able to witness the feeding. The birds arrive well in advance, prancing excitedly as their red headplates swell and display their vibrant color. The birds are by no means shy at these moments, and perhaps they don’t mind being photographed by dozens of photographers. After all, this allows them to tell their own story and share the great success of the species conservation efforts taking place here with the whole world.

You can learn more about the red-crowned cranes—how they were saved from extinction and where the best places are to observe them—in my separate article, Crane Observation in Hokkaido: Locations and Photo Tips.

Sika Deer – Winter Survivors

After a long day at the crane feeding stations, we head back to Kushiro. It’s still light out for a while, so we take the small, longer road right through the wetland. In the snow-covered landscape, we still spot a few cranes sneaking some livestock feed, and we stop at a horse pasture where a group of Hokkaido ponies—an ancient traditional breed—are braving the winter. After a few kilometers, the landscape changes; we’re surrounded by lakes and gnarled trees, and suddenly three sika deer are standing right in front of us on the road. In the twilight, we can only proceed slowly from here on out, as we keep seeing sika deer along the roadside. That evening, I would never have believed what awaited me later on the Notsuke Peninsula.

The sika deer (Cervus nippon yesoensis) is ubiquitous in Hokkaido and shapes both the island’s landscape and its culture. Originally a forest dweller, it has long since spread to open coastal regions and agricultural areas as well. Especially in winter, when the interior is covered in deep snow, many sika deer migrate to the coast. There, they feed not only on grasses and shrubs but also on washed-up seaweed and algae—an unusual but nutritious addition to their diet. The population is considered one of the largest in the world and continues to grow despite regulated hunting, leading to conflicts with forestry and agriculture. At the same time, the deer are deeply rooted in the Japanese understanding of nature, and these proud animals with their distinctive white patches can be observed in many regions of Hokkaido.

The Deer of the Notsuke Peninsula

As I stand on the narrow spit of land that is the Notsuke Peninsula, an icy wind blows in from the sea. Even on the approach road, I spot the first animals by the roadside, grazing calmly in the dry grass. Then I come across a larger group standing near the fishing gear and boats, right by the roadside. The deer seem accustomed to the presence of humans; they lift their heads, fix me briefly with alert eyes, and then return to feeding or playful sparring. It is particularly impressive to see them moving in small groups through the snow-covered, barren landscape, seemingly perfectly adapted to the harsh conditions of winter.

Read more about Wildlife and Landscapes in Winter on the Notsuke Peninsula

Red Foxes – Clever Cultural Followers

Hokkaido’s red foxes have particularly bushy fur in winter. This makes them look much larger than the foxes back home. And they are far less shy. I soon figure out why that might be: The foxes running along the roadside are repeatedly fed from passing cars. One fox goes about it with particular determination. He sits down at the roadside, waits until a car stops, and then walks expectantly straight to the driver’s side, where he’s tossed a snack through the open window. It doesn’t take long for traffic chaos to ensue. More cars stop, people run into the street, and while the fox poses coquettishly, some other drivers who want to keep going curse. One grows impatient and weaves his way through the crowd of people and the animal at an unreasonably high speed. So much was going wrong here, and I’m glad when the fox slinks away and the cars start rolling again.

The red fox (Vulpes vulpes schrencki) is widespread throughout Hokkaido and hard for visitors to miss. These animals, with their thick, reddish-brown fur, often roam across fields, forest edges, and even through villages and towns in the early morning or at dusk. They are adaptable and, in addition to natural prey such as mice, birds, and insects, also scavenge for scraps or food offered by humans. However, this proximity carries risks. Many foxes also suffer from parasites such as the fox tapeworm, which is why direct contact should be avoided. These curious, alert animals, with their bushy tails and graceful demeanor, hold a great fascination and are a quintessential part of the natural experience in Hokkaido for many travelers.

Eagles – Rulers of the Skies

The journey continues to the Shiretoko Peninsula in northeastern Hokkaido. The mountains and coastlines here are part of one of Japan’s wildest regions and attract hikers with their pristine forests, waterfalls, and sweeping views of the Sea of Okhotsk. At the same time, the area is home to many Ussuri brown bears. Hikers are therefore advised to wear bear bells, store food securely, and check for recent sightings and safety guidelines before setting out on a hike. Even in winter, encounters can occur, as not all bears hibernate continuously here. However, it is far more likely to encounter one of the kings of the skies here in winter: the Steller’s sea eagle.

In winter, unusually large numbers of Steller’s sea eagles (Haliaeetus pelagicus) and white-tailed sea eagles (Haliaeetus albicilla)gather along the coast of Hokkaido. Steller’s sea eagles breed in the summer primarily along the coasts of Eastern Siberia, particularly in Kamchatka and the Kuril Islands, and migrate south to Hokkaido in the winter, where the sea does not become covered in drift ice until mid-February. According to estimates, several thousand individuals spend the winter in Hokkaido—nearly a third of the global population. Many Steller’s sea eagles, which have a vast breeding range stretching from Scandinavia to the Far East, also overwinter in Hokkaido. Both species benefit from the abundant fish stocks around the Shiretoko Peninsula, making the area one of the world’s best spots for observing sea eagles. You’ll easily spot them by scanning the tall trees along the coast or simply gazing up at the sky for a while. The best spots for spotting them are around Utoro, Rausu, on the Notsuke Peninsula, as well as near Lake Furen and Nemuro..

Boat Tour to See the Eagles

Early in the morning, the port of Rausu still lies sleepy beneath its blanket of snow. Only a few birdwatchers, bundled up warmly, gather in front of the tour boat to see the white-tailed eagles. We don’t have to go far to see them. Already perched on the outer wall of the harbor, several Steller’s sea eagles and white-tailed sea eagles watch our boat as it departs. They’re getting ready for breakfast. Lured by the fish, dozens of eagles soon circle above our ship, diving down and snatching one fish after another with their powerful talons.

Whooper Swans – Elegant Winter Visitors

On the way to Lake Kussharo, winter is relentless, and we cross the Bihoro Pass with the utmost caution. Upon arriving in Kusshar, the roads were deeply snow-covered, but our car takes us to the lake without difficulty. Snow and a biting wind sweep across the shore. I get my camera ready, slip it into a waterproof bag, and venture out. Will the swans even be here in this weather?

But after just a few meters, I spot a good two dozen birds, showing off their best side to a few weather-proofed observers. As I crouch behind a wall to shelter from the wind, the whooper swans stretch their long necks with full elegance, as if the weather doesn’t affect them at all. It soon becomes clear to me why so many birds gather here. It’s not just the warm water from the hot springs that keeps this section of Sunayu Onsen ice-free, but also the winter feeding that makes the eastern shore of Lake Kussharo so popular. Grain feed is scattered with large spoons, and the swans swimming farther away hurry over so they don’t miss out. In the midst of the spectacle, the sky clears a bit, and the mountains on the opposite shore of the lake provide a striking contrast to the swans’ white plumage.

Lake Kussharo as a Wintering Ground

Lake Kussharo in eastern Hokkaido serves as an important wintering ground for whooper swans (Cygnus cygnus). Due to geothermal activity, some areas along the shore remain ice-free even during severe frosts, allowing the birds to find food and rest there. Every year, several hundred to over a thousand birds spend the cold season at the lake before returning to their breeding grounds in Siberia in the spring. The swans feed primarily on aquatic plants, but in areas developed for tourism, they also accept food from visitors. Their presence makes Lake Kussharo one of the most famous winter bird-watching spots in Japan. For visitors, there is a rest area here with a restaurant and souvenir shop. Another good spot for observing whooper swans is at Lake Tofutsu near the Hakucho Park Visitor Center.

One Last Look in the Evening

As I stand on the shore of Lake Kussharo in the evening, I say goodbye to the swans and to Hokkaido’s wild nature. Tomorrow I’ll head back to Kushiro, and the day after that, via Tokyo, back to Berlin. A flock of swans flies past me, their calls echoing through the crisp winter air. Behind me, steam rises from the hot springs. The greatest threat to many wild animals in Hokkaido is the loss of their habitat. Agriculture, urbanization, and climate change are rapidly altering ecosystems. At the same time, interest in wildlife tourism is growing, which can lead to disturbances when visitors approach the animals without consideration. Conservation efforts focus on designating protected areas and implementing regulated feeding programs.

Kushiro, Notsuke, Shiretoko, Kussharo: These are places that are not just landscapes, but tell stories about the coexistence of humans and animals—about conservationists who carry out feeding programs, about fishermen who make their living from the sea, about nature tourists and wildlife photographers who share their experiences and bring Hokkaido’s wildlife to life for the world.

The Responsibility of Photographers and Nature Tourists

As a wildlife photographer, you bear a special responsibility for the protection of wild animals. Any disturbance can affect the animals’ behavior—whether it’s a startled crane abandoning its brood or a stressed deer wasting energy it desperately needs for the winter. You must always maintain a sufficient distance so as not to interfere with the animals’ natural behavior. Slowing down and being patient are crucial here: those who remain calm and do not startle the animals will be rewarded with authentic, natural shots.

It is equally important to follow the rules of the nature reserves. Trails and marked photo spots exist for a reason—they are placed to minimize disturbance to wildlife. Wildlife photography in Hokkaido is a unique experience that yields breathtaking images and unforgettable encounters. But to preserve this beauty, photographers must act as ambassadors for nature: with respect, knowledge, and an awareness of animal conservation.

Book Recommendations for Hokkaido and Wildlife Photography

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

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Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love wildlife watching as much as I do? Then you’ll definitely be interested in my article Birdwatching for Beginners - with Binoculars in Search of Happiness and my article Storks, Cranes & Co - Birdwatching around the "Stork Village" Linum.

Der Beitrag Wildlife Fotografie auf Hokkaido – Guide zu den besten Winter-Locations erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Romania. The Danube Delta is known to many nature lovers as a birdwatching paradise. Many birdwatchers come here during the migration season or to observe the summer breeding season. However, the Danube Delta is hardly known as a winter destination. But it is precisely at this time of year that the mighty Dalmatian pelicans and Pallas's gulls show off their beautiful breeding plumage. The sparse winter vegetation also makes the animals easy to spot on the riverbanks. In addition to the Dalmatian pelicans, it was the chance to see golden jackals, raccoon dogs, and wildcats that drew me to this remote region.

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The Water begins at the End of the Road

The evening in Tulcea feels like a transition between two worlds. From the city, also known as the “Gateway to the Danube Delta,” the only way to continue is by boat. We hoist our luggage into the small boat at the jetty. There is no one else at the harbor except us. It is raining. Everyone finds a place on the beanbags in the boat, pulls warm lambskin overshoes over their boots, and wraps themselves in the blankets provided. We get our cameras ready by the light of our headlamps. It is shortly before eight o'clock in the evening. Soon after we set off, all the lights of the city have disappeared, and only the red/green side lights of our boat bring some light into the darkness. Our guide scans the banks with night vision goggles for crepuscular and nocturnal animals. I, too, stare intently into the dark landscape and imagine I can make something out. After a while, I give up and just watch our guide, seeing which direction he points the night vision device and whether he raises his hand with the flashlight. Within the first hour of our boat trip to the village of Mila 23, we see two minks, two raccoon dogs, a tawny owl, and a deer.

There are only four of us, an unusually small group for a photography trip, accompanied by our guide from the nature tour operator Sakertours and our boatman. After about three hours on the boat, we reach our destination in Mila 23.

Danube Delta Biosphere Reserve

The Danube Delta Biosphere Reserve is a vast labyrinth of water and land on the border between Romania and Ukraine. The delta consists of countless lakes, canals, and islands at the end of the approximately 2,860 km long Danube River. Covering 5,800 square kilometers, it is the largest contiguous wetland and reed bed in Europe. The area is known as an Eldorado for birdwatchers, with 312 recorded bird species. Countless fish and mammal species find refuge in this mosaic of water and land, which has been designated a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and World Natural Heritage Site since 1991. The delta is also one of the last refuges for the European mink, the wildcat, the freshwater otter, and the globally endangered monk seal. Around 13,000 people live in small villages that can only be reached by boat. The main economic activities in the biosphere reserve are fishing, hunting, reed harvesting, livestock farming, subsistence farming, and tourism.

Mila 23 and Life in Winter in the Danube Delta

The small village of Mila 23 on the edge of one of the many canals looks more like a collection of boats than a settlement. There are no roads here, only wooden walkways, boats in front of the houses, and a few narrow paths. Many residents of the village, as well as the delta as a whole, belong to the Lipovan community, descendants of Russian Old Believers who found refuge here in the 18th century. Our guesthouse is family-run and impresses us over the following days with excellent local cuisine, which, as expected, offers plenty of fish from the waters on the doorstep.

In the weeks leading up to our trip, I had checked the weather forecast every day. What could I expect in winter in the Danube Delta? The forecast temperatures ranged from minus fourteen to plus fourteen degrees Celsius, with snow, ice, and true spring weather. Just the week before, there was snow on the ground, and the waterways were partially frozen. But now, at the beginning of February, the thermometer shows a few degrees above zero, the snow has disappeared, the ice has melted, and instead heavy clouds hang over the river and a fine drizzle alternates with heavy showers. Not the conditions photographers dream of, but perhaps exactly those that give a photo that certain atmosphere.

Winter is the off-season here in the Danube Delta. Most hotels and tourist attractions are closed, and visitors don't start arriving until April, when migratory birds stop over and the breeding season begins. But now the delta belongs almost exclusively to the locals and the animals. It is precisely this tranquility that makes it so appealing.

Golden Jackals from the Photo Hide

On two of the three days, our small photography group splits up. Two of us take the boat and search for water birds, while the other two move into a small photo hide at the edge of the reed belt. I can hardly wait to get into the hide and eagerly set up my camera. We are in luck: after just half an hour, two golden jackals appear, looking beautiful in their thick winter coats. They look like a cross between a fox and a small wolf. Golden jackals have spread rapidly in recent decades, as there is plenty of food and cover in the delta.

We are able to observe the five animals for over an hour. They are extremely shy in the open meadow and keep looking around in all directions, even up into the air. Probably not without reason. Two of the jackals have clearly visible old injuries, either from fights or traps: a partially severed tail, a partially missing front paw, an injured eye, and a bent ear testify to the enormous resilience and strength of these wild animals.

From our hiding place, we can observe other animals, including buzzards, a marsh harrier, gray herons, hooded crows, magpies, a gray woodpecker, and two pheasants.

Boat Trip in Rain and Fog

Our second day begins before sunrise again with strong coffee and a richly laid breakfast table. It is raining outside, and even after sunrise, it seems as if it will not get light today. We pull the tarpaulin over the boat and wrap ourselves in blankets. The further we go, the wider the river becomes, and then it divides into branches that branch out again until it seems impossible to find our way, and only walls of reeds pass by on the left and right. As the boat chugs slowly through the gray water, we keep an eye out for birds. First, we spot a little grebe, then pygmy cormorants, gray herons, coots, and great crested grebes. Later in the afternoon, the rain stops, and a veil of fog descends over the water.

Our return trip to our accommodation is a real blind flight in the fog. Sometimes we can barely see fifty meters ahead, and we can only move slowly. Great white egrets emerge like white ghosts from the gray soup, gray herons stand motionless on the shore, almost unnoticed, and great crested grebes disappear with a plop beneath the surface of the water. Although everything is damp and the light is dim, this is precisely when very atmospheric images emerge, with landscapes that resemble paintings rather than photographs.

Pelicans in their Breeding Plumage

Our last day is devoted entirely to the Dalmatian pelicans. Right at the start of the trip, we already see several young birds. After a short stop, we continue on our way, searching for the adult birds, whose shaggy head feathers and bright orange throat pouches look almost exotic in their breeding plumage. On a larger lake, we finally discover the silhouettes of several pelicans, huge birds with a wingspan of up to three meters.

With several thousand breeding pairs, the Danube Delta is home to one of the most important colonies in Europe, accounting for a significant proportion of the world's population. They remain in the area throughout the year. In spring, the Dalmatian pelicans are joined by pink pelicans, which breed in large colonies in the Danube Delta.

We brought the pelicans some fish, which gave us the opportunity to watch the animals feeding. The pelicans use their throat pouches as nets to scoop up fish and water. The water is then drained before the fish is swallowed. The throat pouch is extremely stretchy and can hold ten to twelve liters of water.

The Pallas's gull is named after the German naturalist Peter Simon Pallas (1741–1811), who first described the species in 1773. It is the largest gull with a black head (in breeding plumage) and the third largest gull species worldwide. The species is mainly found in the steppe lakes of Central Asia and the coastal regions of the Caspian Sea. The population in the Danube Delta is the westernmost occurrence.

Nighttime in the Danube Delta

Wildcats

Every evening, we spend several hours searching for crepuscular and nocturnal animals. The European wildcat lives in the vast Danube Delta with its dense riparian forest and numerous refuges. The animals usually remain invisible to visitors because they are not only nocturnal but also extremely shy. Wildcats avoid open areas, preferring to stay in dense riparian forests and reed beds, where they use hiding places such as fallen tree trunks or hollow trunks to protect themselves from disturbance during the day. They only go hunting after dusk.

Three times, our guide spots a wildcat on the shore with his night vision goggles. But in the glow of the flashlight, it quickly disappears. I only see the animal balancing on a branch for a brief moment and can only photograph its rear end with my camera.

Raccoon Dogs

I have often heard of raccoon dogs, but never seen one. So I am all the more delighted when we spot two animals during an evening boat tour. The raccoon dog is native to East Asia. Between 1928 and the 1950s, thousands of animals were released in Russia, Belarus, and Ukraine. The aim was to establish a new fur animal species for the hunting and fur industry. The animals proved to be adaptable, fertile, and prolific. From these populations, the raccoon dog migrated independently.

Farewell to the Danube Delta

Our return trip from Mila23 to Tulcea is another night journey. After a sumptuous three-course dinner, we make ourselves comfortable in the boat again and keep our cameras at the ready. We see several nutrias in the water, tawny owls, and mice swimming in the water. During the trip, fog rolls in again, and we can only chug slowly through the canals. A typical winter in the Danube Delta. I lean back in my beanbag, listen to the water lapping against the hull, and think about how rare such places have become in Europe.

Book Recommendations for Nature Lovers

Would you like to learn more about wildlife observation? Then I have three book recommendations for you. You can order the books* from Amazon by clicking on the images. If you buy a book or another article via an affiliate link, I will receive a small commission, and you will help me to continue to fill Wanderlust Motifs with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you.

Want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I am also very happy if you share my article with your friends.

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Recommendations for further Reading

If you like the Danube Delta in winter, then you will certainly be interested in the following articles:

Der Beitrag Donaudelta im Winter – Auf Fototour zu Goldschakalen und Pelikanen erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Germany. It is early December. The two-and-a-half-hour ferry crossing from Cuxhaven to Heligoland can be a wild ride at this time of year. But right now, something very special is attracting many nature lovers to Germany's offshore island: the birth season of the gray seals. From November to January, hundreds of gray seals are born on the flat sandy beaches of Heligoland Düne. It's a natural spectacle that is second to none.

I am spending three days on Heligoland to photograph the seals. I am hoping for one of those rare moments that nature photographers dream of: a birth. In the following, I will tell you about my time with the gray seals and give you lots of practical tips for your own photo trip to the seals on Heligoland Düne

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New Life among the Gray Seals

The wind has a firm grip on the Heligoland dunes. Fine sand whips across the beach, drawing bright veils across the ground. The grains of sand hit me like tiny needles and crunch between my teeth. I am glad I have my safety goggles from the hardware store, which allow me to keep my eyes open without straining them. My gaze and my camera are fixed on a large gray seal that is behaving conspicuously nervously, not far from the barrier fence. After a few minutes of sand exfoliation, my suspicion is confirmed: her abdomen reveals a bulging red amniotic sac.

The female turns awkwardly onto her side, first one way, then the other. She bends like a banana, turns in circles, and tries to push the amniotic sac further out. The surrounding seals raise their heads, unimpressed. The offspring takes its time. For about 15 minutes, it hangs halfway out in the fresh North Sea wind of 7 Beaufort, while its mother twists and turns, bends and rolls in circles. All without making a sound, less than two meters away from the mobile barrier fence that separates visitors from the wild animals. All observers keep a respectful distance and watch. Also, without making a sound. Then suddenly everything happens very quickly, and a wet, yellowish bundle lies in the sand.

The little seal pup immediately opens its eyes and is sniffed and touched by its mother. Moments of closeness, simply beautiful to watch. Meanwhile, the crows jostle in front of the placenta before it cools down and is covered with sand. A wild feeding frenzy begins. The calf looks at the world with its big black eyes, somewhat irritated. Can it already see the crow right in front of it clearly? Can it see us photographers? Its first movements seem shaky, tentative. It takes a while for the little one to find the milk teats and for its fur to dry. Now it is no longer yellowish, but shows its beautiful white lanugo fur. A piece of the fresh umbilical cord still hangs from its belly.

Growth in Record Time – From a white Ball of Fur to Germany's Largest Predator

Seal pups are born weighing around 10 to 14 kilograms. Due to the fat content of their milk, which is more than 50 percent, the pups gain up to two kilograms per day and soon develop a thick, white layer of blubber. Some mothers stay with their calves permanently, while others leave their young alone for a few hours to go fishing. When the calves are weaned after 15 to 21 days, they are on their own. About ten days after weaning, their fur changes, and the white woolly coat is replaced by a swimming coat. Then come the first attempts at swimming, and the young seal begins to hunt instinctively.

On the beach, I see young animals that are only a few days old and others that have already become little rolls of blubber. They seem extremely clumsy on land, but are already very curious. They explore with their snouts, feel their way with their highly sensitive whiskers, and turn their heads toward every new sound.

Grey seals belong to the family of dog seals. Their range extends from Norway to the East Coast of America. The animals that come to Heligoland belong to the eastern North Sea population. They are the largest predators in Germany:

• Males can weigh up to 300 kilograms. They only reach their full strength at around eight years of age.
• Females remain significantly smaller, weighing between 150 and 200 kilograms.
• Young animals weigh between 10 and 14 kilograms at birth.
• The average life expectancy of a gray seal is 35 years.
• Gray seals can reach speeds of up to 20 km/h on land and up to 40 km/h in water.
• Estimates of the survival rate in the first year of life vary greatly depending on location and conditions, ranging from less than 50% to 85%. The main causes of death are often starvation or injury.

Deutschlands wohl stürmischste Kinderstube

Heligoland Dune is barely recognizable in winter. The summer vacationers are gone, leaving behind silence, wind, and Germany's largest gray seal colony. Every year starting in November, this beach becomes the most important birthplace for the eastern North Sea population of gray seals (Halichoerus grypus).Halichoerus grypus).

What appears to be a barren place is in fact a perfectly functioning nursery:

• Strict social distancing rules and barriers separate visitors from the animals.
• A wide beach that is never completely flooded.
• Vigilant rangers keep an eye on seal pups in need of help and keep an eye on visitors.
• Waters rich in fish.

The gray seals often lie close together. Therefore, the beaches are closed to humans. It is no longer possible to walk on the beach without disturbing the seals or risking a bite. However, you can still observe the animals:

There is a raised wooden boardwalk in the dunes on the north beach. From here, you have a good view of the north beach. Some of the seals lie very close to or high up in the dunes. Sometimes they even crawl across the panoramic trail.

The southern beach is accessible up to the Düne restaurant (closed in winter) at the upper edge; the rest of the beach is separated by a sturdy metal fence. The seals are also spread out across the entire beach up to the fence. Despite the fence, it is important to keep your distance here as well, otherwise the animals will become restless or too accustomed to humans. This can become a problem in the following bathing season when the seals, accustomed to humans, get too close to bathers.

A Look back at the History of Heligoland

Heligoland and the neighboring island of Düne only acquired their current shape and size during the Nazi era. In order to develop Heligoland as a strategic naval port, both islands were to be greatly enlarged as part of the Hummerschere project. To this end, large parts of the present-day island were filled in and fortified so that their shape and size were no longer subject to the influence of the tides. This created the northeast and south harbor areas on the main island, and Düne was enlarged many times over, and the airport was built.

Gray Seals in Germany – A Success Story

Grey seals used to be mercilessly hunted in the North Sea – for their fur, their meat, and because of the mistaken belief that they were decimating fish stocks. By the beginning of the 20th century, gray seals had been almost wiped out in German waters. In addition to hunting, environmental toxins also caused their numbers to decline dramatically. It was only with strict protection under the Federal Nature Conservation Act, international agreements, and the designation of the Heligoland FFH area with the Heligoland rock base that the population began to slowly recover.

Since the first gray seal birth on Heligoland in the winter of 1996/97, there has been a steady increase in the number of births. Today, Heligoland is the most important breeding ground for gray seals in Germany—and one of the few places in Europe where you can observe the birth of these animals without endangering them. Today, around 1,000 pups are born here every year – and the trend is rising.

Total number of gray seal births (source: Verein Jordsand e.V.):

– 2024/25: over 1,000 pups
– 2023/24: 850-900 pups
– 2022/23: 700-800 pups
– 2021/22: 670 pups
– 2020/21: 652 pups

Life in the Colony – Closeness and Distance

Wind blows sand across the beach, swirling around the animals like thin veils. But the seals seem unmoved by such moments: they close their eyes and let everything wash over them. There is a clear order among the adult animals: mothers keep their distance from each other, young animals lie scattered across a wide area, and males patrol the edges. Although the colony appears dense, the animals rarely touch each other.

The most common behaviors I observe are:

• Contact sounds between mother and pup, suckling, playful physical contact between pup and mother
• Protection of the pup from other seals
• Rearing up and threatening, especially between males, but also females, who attack each other if one comes too close.
• Mock attacks, which often consist only of a low head position and open mouth
• Bloody fights between the bulls
• The approach of the bulls to the females, because mating takes place immediately after weaning the young. Most of the time, the bulls are driven away, but I was able to observe mating twice.

Mating Season in Winter

While the young animals still lie awkwardly on the beach, the mating season begins for the adults. The males wait, observe, and show their presence. They keep a close eye on when one of their females is ready to mate. However, if the males approach the female too early, they are rudely rejected.

The stately bulls vehemently defend their harem (typically five to seven females) against intruders and competitors. Violent fights are rare – most rivalries are decided by body language, vocalizations, and mutual intimidation.

After successful mating, the fertilized egg enters a dormant period of around three months. Only then does the approximately eight-month embryonic development begin. This makes it possible for the birth to take place again in winter. By then, most females have built up enough energy reserves to nurse for several weeks.

The Moment that remains

As I leave the beach in the evening, the calf whose birth I witnessed is nestled close to its mother. Its fur is no longer wet and shines white. It looks around curiously, appearing full and content. The moment when the seal pup fell from the bursting amniotic sac onto the beach and lay there as a wet, helpless bundle in the sand-filled gusts of wind is burned into my memory.

Heligoland Dune shows its roughest side in winter. And at the same time it's most tender. New life grows here, and nature tells one of its oldest stories. Quiet. Wild. And every year anew.

How to behave around Gray Seals

Gray seals are Germany's largest predators and should be treated with respect and consideration. For the successful rearing of young animals and for your own safety, please note the following:

• Check with the rangers and staff of the Jordsands e.V. association about the current accessibility of the beaches and any restrictions in place.
• You may encounter seals outside the barriers. On freely accessible areas, be sure to keep a distance of 30 meters from the animals.
• Young animals that have been influenced by too close contact with humans can sometimes make safe and carefree swimming difficult in summer. They approach bathers fearlessly.
• Do not go near bull fights, as the animals can reach speeds of around 20 km/h on land and are particularly aggressive during the mating season.
• Do not block the animals' access to the water or from the water to land. Never get between a calf and its mother.
• Severe disturbances can permanently disrupt the sensitive bond between mother and calf, which can lead to high calf mortality in the first year of life.

Photography Tips for Gray Seals on Heligoland Dune

Access to the beach:

The beaches are largely closed during the breeding season. There is an elevated panoramic path on the north beach from which you can observe the seals, and on the south beach you can walk along the beach up to a metal fence separating it from the dune restaurant.

Perspective:

Since the gray seals lie on the ground, the best pictures are taken when you lie on the ground yourself. This is only possible on the south beach, where the metal fence is located.

Focal length:

I took most of the pictures with a 200-600 mm telephoto lens. Unfortunately, the lens end was too large in diameter, so I couldn't use the metal fence as a tripod substitute. However, I was still able to take good pictures, even close to the ground. The 100-400 mm lens would have been better suited. A standard lens is definitely worthwhile for photographing the landscape and the seals in their habitat.

Best time to travel:

The birthing season lasts from November to January. When I was on Heligoland Düne at the beginning of December, around 700 pups had already been born, and there were many different age groups. The best chance of seeing a birth is at the end of November.

Best time of the day:

I couldn't detect any different activity patterns among the gray seals throughout the day, but it is said that they are most active in the morning. In addition, the morning and evening are particularly beautiful because of the beautiful light. This allows you to take beautiful backlit shots in the morning

Sand and rain:

Sand blows most near the ground, and it is almost impossible to prevent it from getting on your camera. If you like, bring a protective cover and UV filter. A brush has proven useful for brushing off sand grains at the end of the day.

Food, warming up, toilet:

Bring everything you need for food and drink. Drinking water can be refilled in the toilets in the heated exhibition/lounge area at the ferry terminal. There are also power outlets and tables for lunch breaks.

Getting to the dunes:

The first dune ferry leaves at 8 a.m. at the beginning of December, and a round trip costs €6. More information here.

Book Recommendations for Nature Lovers

Would you like to learn more about wildlife observation? Then I have three book recommendations for you. You can order the books* from Amazon by clicking on the images. If you buy a book or another article via an affiliate link, I will receive a small commission, and you will help me to continue to fill Wanderlust Motifs with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you.

Want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I am also very happy if you share my article with your friends.

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Der Beitrag Nachwuchs im Winterwind – Kegelrobben auf Helgoland-Düne erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

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Autumn in Finland's wild Taiga

Autumn begins early in eastern Finland. As early as September, the birch trees turn golden, the nights grow long, and the northern lights appear in the clear night sky. The bears prepare for their winter hibernation and eat their fill of blueberries to build up a thick layer of fat. I, on the other hand, prepare myself with my down jacket, sleeping bag, hat, and thermos for several cold nights in photo hides at four different locations in eastern Finland. Not every hide is equipped with heating. Most are simple wooden shacks or small huts, sometimes with a bed or bunk bed, or just a soft floor mat. Each one is unique in its own way, sometimes very cozy, sometimes a real pain in the neck.

Karhu-Kuusamo – Finland's northernmost Bear Photography Hide

When I arrive at the Karhu-Kuusamo meeting point, the forest is quiet. I park my car in a small space and watch a jay in the tree opposite. I look around and only when I am sure that there is no bear behind the next tree do I get out and point my camera at the raven. But it hears the two cars approaching ahead of me and takes off. It brought me luck – from now on, it would only be half an hour before I saw my first brown bear in the wild.

My first Photo Hide for viewing Bears near Kuusamo

The Karhu-Kuusamo observation hides are located about a 30-minute drive from Kuusamo and are the northernmost photo hides for bear viewing in all of Finland. The season lasts from early May to late September, and the sighting probability is 99%. The five hides are wooden huts of varying sizes overlooking a dark pool, a boggy swamp, and the forest beyond. I share a small hide with another visitor. The atmosphere is tense as we set up our cameras on the beanbags and our guide lays out treats for the bears outside, 20 to 60 meters away from the huts. It doesn't take long before I feel completely overwhelmed by the huge bear that suddenly appears at the edge of the forest. But the animals are smart; they know when the restaurant opens for them.

This first encounter with a wild brown bear in its natural habitat is a moment that stays with me for a long time. After a few minutes, the big guy disappears back into the dense forest, and I begin to settle into the photo hide. Then, almost hesitantly, a female with particularly light, shimmering blond fur appears at the edge of the forest. At her side is a cub, peeking cautiously out from behind its mother. Above them, several sea eagles sit in the treetops, waiting for their chance. Ravens circle the area, commenting on the spectacle with hoarse caws.

The Sky is wild, too

It's not just the forests that are wild in Finland – the sky is too. During my observations, I repeatedly saw white-tailed eagles circling above the clearings or sitting in the trees. The white-tailed eagle(Haliaeetus albicilla)is one of the largest birds of prey in Europe. It was once almost extinct, but thanks to consistent conservation measures, populations in Finland have recovered. Today, it can be found regularly on lakes and along the Baltic Sea coast – but it also occasionally appears inland, searching for carrion or fish.

Night in the Bear Forest

As darkness falls, our guide knocks on the door of the hut, which we have locked from the inside. For me, it's now time to move on to the largest of the observation huts, where I will spend the night. He himself will leave the area with the other guests. The thought of being alone in the middle of bear territory makes me a little nervous. I push my excitement aside and get my camera ready while there is still a little bit of light left. Just in time, because the big male bear is already coming back, looking for more pieces of fish. He comes within a few meters of the hut. I hear his footsteps in the muddy swamp, his panting, chewing, and suddenly a deep growl that sends shivers down my spine. I sit still, listen, and feel a rollercoaster of absolute fascination and goosebumps. It's a good thing the hide is so solid and sturdy.

Only when it is pitch black outside do I crawl into one of the four bunk beds. Surprisingly quickly, I fall into a deep sleep. Maybe it's the tiredness, maybe it's the security of the hide. In the morning, I leave the hut and lock the door from the outside. On the way to my car, I hum a song, hoping to scare away any bears on the way between the hut and my car.

For more information on bear watching from Finland's northernmost photo hide, visit the Karhu-Kuusamo website..

Wild Brown Bear Center – three Days with Bears and Wolverines

My journey continues south, where I have booked three days at the Wild Brown Bear Center near Vartius. A large observation hut and several small photo hides offer unobstructed views of the marsh, lake, and forest in the border region between Finland and Russia. There is even cell phone reception in the hides, and all guests are connected in a WhatsApp group. We want to use it to communicate sightings and the movements of wild animals, helping us to look in the right direction and not miss anything.

At around 4 p.m., we set off for the hides, which are about 700 meters away and designed for one to two people. There is a bunk bed, chairs, sleeping bags, and a toilet bucket. I attach my tripod head to a wooden board at the viewing slit, settle in, and wait for a bear to appear.

A Wolverine says Hello

The first evening in the hide remains quiet and without sightings. After an equally quiet night, I pack up my camera equipment and am about to leave the hide. A dark brown body darts out of the shadows and runs along the opposite shore of the lake. Just as quickly as it appeared, it disappears again. Gulo gulo, known in English as the wolverine or bear marten, is one of the rarest predators in Europe. Gulo gulo, zu Deutsch Vielfraß oder auch Bärenmarder, ist einer der am seltensten beobachteten Beutegreifer Europas.

We wait, hoping that the wolverine will reappear. Unfortunately, to no avail. At 8 a.m., the agreed time, we guests all leave our hiding places at the same time and meet in the common room for breakfast.

The next two days follow the same pattern: in the afternoon, after an early dinner, we head out to the hiding places, wait for the animals in the evening, spend the night in the hiding place, and return to base camp in the morning for breakfast. During the day, I go for walks in the area, photograph birds at the feeding station, or look through the photos from the previous evening in my room or the lounge.

An underrated Loner

While bears are the center of attention here, the wolverine often remains in the shadows. Unfairly so. With its muscular body, powerful jaws, and sharp claws, it moves effortlessly through the terrain. It is a scavenger, but also a hunter that can kill weakened reindeer, hares, or birds.

On the second day, I see the wolverine again and manage to take a photo of the nimble creature. But it is only later, quite a bit further south, at Erä-Eereo near Lieksa, that I am able to observe and photograph the wolverine at length. The night vision device I borrowed opens up a view into a dark, hidden world that is teeming with life. In addition to the wolverine, I also see wolves, a bear that immediately disappears back into the thicket, and various bird species such as ravens, jays, white-tailed eagles, and sparrowhawks. Read more in my separate article “Rendezvous in the forest – With the wolverine in Finland's wild taiga.”

The Bear comes to say Goodbye

On the last evening, I am back in another hide, looking out over a small lake surrounded by forest. The long-awaited bear arrives within the first hour. It is slightly smaller than the bears I saw in Kuusamo. It is a brief but wonderful and intense encounter, and afterwards I watch with great satisfaction as the sun sets behind the forest and darkness falls outside.

More information about bear watching can be found on the Wild Brown Bear Center website.

Wildlife Safaris Finland – A Paradise for Wildlife Photographers near Kuhmo

Paradise is the name of the third location where I am setting up a photo hide in Finland. It is one of 20 hides belonging to Wildlife Safaris Finland's Kuikka Base Camp, located in the border region with Russia. The station is run by renowned nature photographer Lassi Rautiainen, a pioneer of bear photography in Europe. Although the border crossings between Finland and Russia are currently closed, there is no border fence up here, unlike in southern Finland. Bears and wolves pass through unhindered, as they always have. Visitors who want to come to this border region must register their stay with the Finnish authorities in advance, which the tour operator does a few days before arrival.

Before heading out to the hide, I cook some pasta outside at the picnic area with my Trangia stove. Freshly fortified, I pack my thermos, sandwiches, camera equipment, and sleeping bag. At around 4 p.m., our guide drives ahead through the forest. We guests follow in our own cars to “Paradise,” a row of huts on the edge of a huge grassy plain flanked by pine, spruce, and birch forests. The landscape shimmers in shades of yellow and ochre – autumn is unmistakably on its way.

There is no light or electricity out here. Luxury here means being close to nature. This is the smallest hut I have ever stayed in. I can't stand up here, but I can lie comfortably on a soft foam mat and take photos from a worm's-eye view or sit upright on a chair. In the vestibule there is a toilet bucket, separated from the realm of the bears only by a tarpaulin. I have never been so alert when going to the toilet. Our guide explains how to use the gas stove (there is still a little bit of luxury) and then goes outside to scatter pieces of fish and dog food pellets on the meadow. With his quad bike and trailer, he takes a pig carcass further away from the huts. Attracted by the food, it doesn't take long for the first bear to appear. Shortly after him, the wolves enter the scene. Ravens settle down all around, cawing loudly.

When the Wolf shows up

Well camouflaged in the tall grass, I see my first wolf in Finland. Shortly afterwards, a second one appears, then a third. Over the course of the evening, I count seven young wolves, accompanied by their mother. The adolescents romp across the clearing, playfully wrestling and snapping at their siblings, storming through the meadow like exuberant teenagers. Two of the young wolves come very close to the huts and search for dog food pellets in the tall grass. I watch them spellbound, and every now and then, one of them looks directly into my camera. What I would give to be able to read wolves' minds. By 10 p.m., it is finally so dark that I can no longer see anything. I crawl into my sleeping bag. Outside, I hear the wilderness continuing to live.

I wake up with the first light of dawn. The wolves are already awake too; I can see them in the distance, just before the edge of the forest. Now they are all together, resting next to a tree trunk. I wish they would come back to the huts, but unfortunately, it's in vain. With a heavy heart, I pack my things and say a very grateful goodbye to “Paradise.” What I didn't know that morning was that in a few days, I would see wolves again at Erä-Eereo near Lieksa.

More information is available on the Wildlife Safaris Finland website.

Responsibility of Photographers

As a wildlife photographer, you have a great responsibility towards the animals you want to photograph. Even though the photo hides with their small viewing windows are designed to disturb the animals as little as possible, you must be aware of the possible effects. Therefore, each of the photo hides has its own rules, which must be strictly observed by every guest. Failure to comply can not only disturb or scare away the animals, but also pose a danger to life and limb. Before entering the hide, ask the operator for instructions, ask questions if anything is unclear, and familiarize yourself with the area and the behavior of the animals beforehand.

Nature photographers are automatically ambassadors for nature and conservation. High-quality images can help raise awareness of the need to protect these animals and generate positive attention for the preservation of wilderness areas. Ultimately, nature photography and wildlife tourism also bring additional income to the region and strengthen the acceptance of large predators among the population. For example, the illegal killing of wolves in Kuhmo has decreased thanks to wildlife tourism, as local people have come to understand how important living wolves are.

Proper Behavior when photographing Wildlife from a Hide in Finland

• Be quiet, ideally prepare everything for the evening/night so that everything is ready to hand. Avoid opening loud Velcro fasteners or zippers. Set your cell phone to silent mode.
• No loud crackling food packaging – ask if bringing food is allowed at all.
• Set your camera to silent mode (in some hides, photography with loud SLR cameras is even prohibited).
• Do not use flash, headlamps, or other lights outside or inside the hide.
• No additional attractants or food outside the controlled areas.
• No strong-smelling food, perfumes, or mosquito repellent.
• Wear dark clothing to avoid reflections on the viewing glass.
• Do not let camera parts hang out of the hide.
• No sudden movements.
• No dogs allowed.
• Do not leave the hide until the agreed time.

A Place that transforms

Every night in the photo hide in Finland's wild east brought unforgettable encounters and new experiences. If you want to observe animals in the wild, you have to adapt to the rhythm of nature. That means long periods of waiting, silence, and then the big moment. The observation huts are simple, cramped, and not very comfortable. But what they lack in comfort is more than made up for by the proximity to the animals and the intensity of the observations. You sit there, looking outside, camera at the ready, and then suddenly a wolf, bear, wolverine, or eagle comes into view.

The time spent in the photo hides has changed my awareness of wild animals. After the physical proximity, the personal experience leaves me with a psychological closeness to bears, wolves, wolverines, and eagles, and I carry the experiences of these days in the taiga like a little treasure in my memory. I had taken many, many pictures and was already looking forward to seeing the animals again at home on my sofa.

More Information about the Animals

Metsähallitus Parks & Wildlife Finland: https://www.largecarnivores.fi/species/wolverine.html

IUCN Red List: https://www.iucnredlist.org/species/9561/45198537

Book recommendations for Finland

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I am also very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Der Beitrag Finnlands wilder Osten – Bären, Wölfe und Vielfraße aus Fotoverstecken beobachten erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Finland. It is dark. I am alone in my small photography hideout in the middle of the Finnish taiga. Only the gas stove burns quietly in the background. But then – a smacking sound breaks the nighttime silence. It is quite close. I get up and quietly switch on the night vision device that is tucked into one of the window slits. A wolverine. Less than five meters away, a massive, muscular, thick-furred fur, individual raindrops glistening on the tips of its hair. Its powerful teeth tug at a piece of meat that it holds with one paw. It looks up briefly, its eyes white in the night vision device, staring at me. Goosebumps run down my spine. Then it continues eating. Shortly afterward, the chattering of a family of mallards fills the darkness.

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links.

Autumn in the wild Taiga

I am traveling through the Finnish taiga, near Lieksa in the east of the country. It is autumn, the time of ruska, when birch trees glow golden and the moors shine in all shades of red. The nights are already quite cold, and there are no more mosquitoes. Mushrooms are sprouting, lingonberries and blueberries are ripe, and end up in my cereal every morning. Today, my path takes me along gravel roads deep into the dense forest to the base camp of Eero Kortelainen, alias Erä-Eero. Keljänpuro Lodge is an old logger's cabin from the 1950s that was renovated by Eero himself. Eero initially offered various outdoor activities here, and since 2005 he has also been offering wildlife viewing. Over the years, Erä-Eero has become known as the world's best place to observe wolverines, a shy and rare animal that is difficult to observe in the wild. There are observation huts and photo hides at various locations, where I have settled in for the next two nights.

Welcome to Erä-Eraeo

I am warmly welcomed with steaming coffee. Keljänpuro Lodge is rustic and cozy, and the animal pictures on the walls make me want to set off on a wildlife viewing trip right away. But first, Sini gives me a briefing. I learn more about the hides, the rules to follow there, and how my evening and the next morning will unfold. Then I borrow a pair of night vision goggles and pack my snack box and thermos flask into my car. Eero and Sini drive ahead, and I follow in my own car. After about six kilometers, we pass a barrier and park our cars in front of a small wooden hut at Uuronlampi, a beautiful moorland lake surrounded by high hills.

I climb out, excited. The wooden hut is a luxurious observation hut with large windows, comfortable armchairs, and a stove. From here, you can look down a slope to a meadow, behind which lies a small lake. To the right are three small photo hides, and to the left of the meadow is the forest. As I am the only guest, I have free choice and select the rear photo hide with a view of the lake and meadow. While Eero and Sini lay out food to attract the animals, I settle into my hide. The cameras are quickly put in position, and the bed and two chairs are covered with all sorts of stuff. It takes a while to get everything in the right place for the night, so that I can find it even in the dark. Because at night, the lights stay off. Otherwise, I'll scare away the wild animals. I turn on the small gas stove and inspect the toilet bucket behind the curtain. Everything you need is there.

Encounters in the Dark

No sooner have Eero and Sini disappeared in their car than calm returns. Only ravens and jays can be heard, their cawing echoing across the lake. After a while, a dark shadow flits across the scene. The wolverine. Broad-built, crouched low, with flowing, powerful movements. The white-tailed eagle watches everything from a safe distance from the top of a pine tree. I hadn't expected it to appear so quickly and enjoy watching it through my camera.

At dusk, three young wolves appear at the edge of the forest. Curious, but cautious, and with their tails tucked between their legs. They watch the wolverine, but remain at a safe distance. The wolverine is unimpressed by the wolves and continues to eat. The wolves retreat.

Later, when night has fallen over the forest, the night vision device reveals a new world: animals with white, ghostly eyes roam the darkness. I can watch the three wolves for a long time. Even without the wolverine, they are very cautious. They probably know who is coming: two large, white eyes are getting closer and closer out of the dark forest – a bear! The wolves run away, and the bear also disappears silently into the thicket. Around midnight, I turn off the stove and go to sleep.

Dawn and Bear Tracks

In the morning, the wolverine is sitting in front of the hut again, searching for the remains of the evening. I pour myself some coffee—lukewarm, but better than nothing. After the wolverine has retreated into the dense forest, I pack up and walk up the slope to my car. I sing a song quietly so that no animals in the vicinity are frightened by my sudden appearance. Only now do I notice the huge pile of bear droppings on the road. I hurry to my car and drive back to the log cabin.

A typical Finnish breakfast awaits me at base: coffee, juice, porridge with fresh cloudberries, eggs, and Karjalanpiirakka , which are Karelian pies filled with rice pudding. Delicious! I recount my observations and am still quite excited. While my batteries are charging at the solar-powered charging station, I am already looking forward to my second night of observation.

Species Portrait: The Wolverine – Gulo gulo, the “Bear Marten”

While bears and wolves take center stage in eastern Finland, the wolverine usually remains in the shadows. But Gulo gulo, the “bear marten,” is a fascinating loner. It is the largest member of the marten family and one of the rarest predators in Europe. Its stocky, muscular body, broad skull, and thick, oily fur make it perfect for life in the snow and cold. Adult males can weigh up to 32 kilograms, with males significantly heavier than females. Despite its size, the wolverine is a skilled climber and a tireless wanderer that can cover long distances. Its diet consists of carrion, small mammals, birds, and occasionally reindeer. In winter in particular, it moves skillfully across the snow, making many other animals easy prey. It stores food, which it hides under snow or moss. This may be why it is also known as the glutton, greedy stomach, or gluttonous throat.

Wolverine Population in Finland

The Finnish wolverine population numbers around 400 individuals and has spread further south from its traditional range in eastern and northern Finland. The wolverine has been strictly protected in Finland since 1982. Thanks to this consistent protection and scientific monitoring, the population has slowly stabilized. Compared to the early 1990s, the wolverine population has increased about tenfold. Monitoring is carried out using camera traps, DNA samples from hair and feces, and reports from local wildlife observers. Nevertheless, the population remains fragile: the animals need huge territories of up to 730 square kilometers in largely unbroken landscapes, which have become rare in Europe.

Myths and Legends

In the traditional worldview of the Sami, nature is not merely a backdrop, but is animated: animals, stones, rivers, and mountains possess their own “personhood.” This animistic belief, in which every living thing has spiritual significance, continues to shape Sami culture to this day.

Der Vielfraß – auf Nordsamisch gearpmát The wolverine – called gearpát in Northern Sami – occupies a special place in this belief system. Although it appears less frequently in traditional stories than, for example, the bear (guovža) or the raven (ráibár), in many regions of Lapland it is considered an animal to be treated with respect and caution. In older traditions, its name was sometimes paraphrased or avoided because it was believed that saying it aloud could bring bad luck – a taboo that also existed for other powerful wild animals.guovža) oder der Rabe (ráibár), gilt er in vielen Regionen Lapplands als ein Tier, das man mit Respekt und Vorsicht behandelt. In älteren Überlieferungen wurde sein Name teils umschrieben oder vermieden, da man glaubte, das Aussprechen könne Unglück bringen – ein Tabu, das auch bei anderen mächtigen Wildtieren bestand.

In northern Scandinavian folklore, the wolverine is considered the epitome of endurance, cunning, and independence. It represents a force that cannot be tamed – a creature that finds food even in the depths of winter and defies even stronger animals. In stories from Lapland and northern Norway, it is described as a tireless wanderer that knows no fixed boundaries and survives in the wilderness where others fail.

Conflicts with Reindeer Herding

Despite its small overall population, the wolverine is the most significant cause of damage to reindeer in Fell Lapland, especially since there is a strict ban on hunting wolverines. On the other hand, the forest wolverine has spread outside the reindeer herding area without harming or disturbing humans.

These facts are taken into account in the wolverine population management plan, which divides the distribution area into three regions: the northern and eastern reindeer herding area, the rest of the reindeer herding area, and the forest area of Finland. The key measures set out in the management plan relate to strengthening the wolverine population outside the reindeer herding area, reducing the damage caused by wolverines to reindeer, and improving methods for monitoring the wolverine population. The connection between the wolverine populations and those in Scandinavia and Russia should also be maintained.

Nevertheless, the majority of reindeer herders support the presence of large predators in reindeer herding areas, provided that the damage they cause is compensated and predator populations are controlled. However, in order to receive this compensation, the killed reindeer must first be found. To this end, the reindeer are fitted with tracking collars that switch on when the animal stops moving, enabling the herders to locate the carcasses. To prevent damage caused by large predators, some reindeer herders have also started fencing in their reindeer during the winter months.

Back in the Forest with the Wolverine

I saw the wolverine again during my second stay in the observation hut. The wolves and ravens were also back. That evening, I watched the animals around my hut a little longer. I was so glad I was able to borrow the night vision goggles. Otherwise, I would have had no idea what was going on around me. The next morning, in daylight, the scene is completely different, another world. Once again, I sing a quiet song as I leave the scene of last night. At the top of the slope, I look back again, wondering if there might be someone else there who wants to say goodbye.

More Information about the Animals

Metsähallitus Parks & Wildlife Finland: https://www.largecarnivores.fi/species/wolverine.html

IUCN Red List: https://www.iucnredlist.org/species/9561/45198537

Book recommendations for Finland

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I am also very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Der Beitrag Rendezvous im Wald – Bei dem Vielfraß in Finnlands wilder Taiga erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Taking photos while traveling can sometimes be a challenge. The hand luggage on the plane weighs almost as much as the checked luggage. On trekking tours, there are quickly a few kilos too many in the rucksack, and the weather protection for the equipment becomes an essential component depending on the destination. If it were just rain and snow, but what can you do when it's not just raining cats and mice, but when the humidity is so high during photography that nothing dries out and when salt water is omnipresent?

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links.

Experiences photographing during a Kayak Tour in Indonesia

I went on a 10-day sea kayaking tour in Indonesia at the turn of the year 2024/25. Our small group was traveling in the beautiful island archipelago of Misool, where we first paddled from island to island and later also in the jungle. Our accommodation was stilt huts over the water or tents on the beach, or in the jungle. It was around 30°C, it rained cats and dogs every afternoon, and our hands were always wet and swollen from the salt or rainwater. If they weren't wet, they were sticky from sun cream, insect repellent, and sweat. Once they were soaked, they hardly dried at all. The humidity reached its peak in the jungle, where it hung in the air in the form of misty clouds. Especially in the dark, you could see the fine droplets in the light of the flashlight.

I had my Sony Alpha with two lenses with me as well as a small compact Sony RX100 and a waterproof GoPro. You can find out how I protected my photo equipment from the humidity during the kayak tour in this article. I'll also give you practical tips on how to capture your tropical motifs in the changing light conditions.

What happens to the Camera in high Humidity?

You may be familiar with the situation where your lens fogs up when you take a photo in the snow and then go out into the warm. In this case, the camera is colder than the dew point of the water in the warm interior. As a result, the humidity in the warm air will condense on the cold camera after the photo has been taken. If you now step out of a cool, air-conditioned room into the humid, warm jungle, exactly the same thing happens, only the other way round. The camera fogs up until it has adapted to the warm ambient temperature. By then, however, a lot of moisture has already accumulated inside the equipment.

To avoid this, it is best to pack the camera in a Ziploc bag and wait until it has reached the ambient temperature. Then fogging due to humidity is no longer a problem, and you don't have to wait to take pictures.

On the other hand, if a camera has already accumulated moisture, then longer storage in an air-conditioned room is advantageous. The air conditioning dries the air as it cools, allowing moisture to escape from the camera.

Here's how to do it: Avoid Condensation on the Camera and Lens

• Get the camera used to the temperature: After entering the jungle, leave the camera switched off in the bag so that it slowly adapts to the outside air.
• Don't switch between air conditioning and outside : Avoid abrupt temperature changes.
• Drying : After the tour, leave the camera and lenses to dry in a well-ventilated room / in the sun.

Protecting the Camera Equipment in high Humidity and Rain

If the camera gets a few raindrops under normal conditions, it's no big deal. The drops will dry quickly. However, if this happens when photographing in the jungle in high humidity, the moisture remains on the camera and penetrates further and further. Under these tour conditions, it is then difficult to dry the already damp camera. However, if the moisture accumulated inside the equipment evaporates, the camera may fog up for a long time. This internal moisture is also a breeding ground for mold.

When photographing in high humidity in the jungle, it is therefore particularly important not to get the camera wet in the first place. Leave the camera packed in the bag for as long as possible and avoid changing the lenses. Also, be careful when replacing the battery.

I often have the following items with me on my photo tours and can highly recommend them for use in the jungle or at home in the rain or on a paddling tour with a camera. If you buy a product via one of these affiliate links from Amazon, I will receive a small commission, and you will help me to keep Fernweh-Motive running. It will not be more expensive for you.

This is how it works: Protect your Equipment from Rain

• Waterproof camera bags : Use a waterproof camera bag or case.
• Ziplock bags and drybags : Pack the camera and interchangeable lenses in Ziploc bags or dry bags. This will keep your equipment dry when you are not using it. Moisture that has already penetrated the camera equipment can be absorbed by the desiccant. This storage method is just as suitable on tour as it is after the tour.
• Silica gel : Silica gel packets in the camera bag help to reduce moisture. There is silica gel that changes color when saturated with moisture. As soon as a packet is saturated, it must be replaced or regenerated by heating it in the oven or microwave (follow the manufacturer's instructions). It is best to take spare packs with you on your trip if you do not have secure access to an oven or microwave.
• Rain cover : Pack a rain cover for the camera to protect it from sudden showers. A plastic bag held in place with an elastic band or braid will do if necessary. Leave the cover on even after the rain has passed, as water will still drip from the trees later.
• Protective filter : A UV filter protects the lens from moisture and scratches.
• Rain poncho: a poncho, which can be worn over the rucksack, provides additional protection against moisture. It can be quickly thrown on in the event of a sudden downpour and also protects the camera hanging around your neck.
• A towel: have a microfiber towel to hand to dry the camera immediately

Better safe than sorry: Rain as we know it from home is nothing compared to a tropical downpour. You're lucky if you can take shelter for the duration of the rain. If you have packed the camera in the rucksack in Ziploc bags, wear the rain cover over the rucksack, and also throw a poncho over yourself and the camera rucksack, your equipment is well protected.

Lens Fungus and Mold

Frequent fogging leads to water accumulation in photographic equipment. In the long term, this can lead to mold and fungus. This forms a white film on the glass, and the photos taken appear washed out. With a lens hood, the lens reflections increase. Removing the fungus and mold is usually difficult and expensive.

Rice as a Desiccant

The camera is damp, but you don't have any silica gel bags available? Then you can fall back on a tried and tested household remedy: rice. Fill a bag with normal, uncooked household rice and place the camera inside. For this to work, however, the camera must be completely covered in rice.

This is how it works: Camera Care after the Tour

• Cleaning : Wipe the camera and lenses thoroughly with a soft cloth after the tour. If the equipment has also been exposed to salt water, wipe it off with a slightly damp cloth beforehand.
• Moisture control : Store the camera in a dry bag or ziploc bag with fresh silica gel packets.
• Regenerating silica gel packets : Check whether the silica gel packets are already saturated with moisture and regenerate them in the microwave or oven if necessary.

Extreme Conditions and Safety for Photographers in the Jungle

Tropical heat and high humidity can also be challenging for photographers themselves. Drink plenty of water to stay hydrated. A sun hat and sunscreen are important to protect yourself from the strong UV rays. Mosquitoes and other insects are common in the tropics, so protect yourself with insect repellent. Did you think about the recommended vaccinations before your trip?

Photo Tips for the Jungle

• The tropical sun is often very strong during the day, and the light is harsh. Take photos in the early morning or late evening twilight to take advantage of soft, warm light and less harsh shadows.
• In the dense rainforest, the light is often diffuse. A higher ISO value and a larger aperture (small f-number) help to achieve clearly focused photos despite the lack of light.
• Detailed and close-up shots of leaves, moss, insects and dewdrops look particularly vivid.
• Use continuous shooting mode for animal photos and be patient. Animals are often difficult to see in the jungle and move quickly through the undergrowth.
• Photograph the rays of light that break through the canopy of leaves for atmospheric images with plays of light.
• Structure your jungle shots: There is often visual clutter in the rainforest. Pay attention to lines or natural frames such as tree trunks and leaves to direct the viewer's gaze.
• Tropical landscapes offer bright colors that are accentuated by strong contrasts. Use these contrasts deliberately to create points of attention in the picture.
• Wipe the lens regularly with a microfiber cloth.
• Use manual focus if necessary, as fog and moisture can affect the autofocus.

Conclusion

The tropics offer an incomparable variety of subjects - from exotic animals to lush vegetation and breathtaking landscapes. However, photographing in the jungle in high humidity requires special preparation, precautions, and techniques. With these tips and the right preparation, you can keep your camera in good shape, avoid humidity-related technical problems, and get the shots you want in tropical regions.

Book Recommendations for Photographers

Do you want to know more about photography and are you curious for inspiration? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

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Recommendations for further Reading

Did you get a taste for it and want to delve deeper into the jungle? Then you might also be interested in my article Amazon of Ecuador: Travelogue and Tips around the Rio Napo and my article Muro de las Lagrimas - Guide for a Bike Tour on Isla Isabela.

Der Beitrag Tipps zum Fotografieren bei hoher Luftfeuchtigkeit im Dschungel erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

It's getting cold outside, the first snowflakes are dancing in front of the window and a white winter landscape beckons me out. When photographing in winter, I always realize how unique the moments and motifs are that I capture with my camera. I always have a lot of fun looking for motifs then. Karin from Fotonomaden feels the same way. That's why I invited Karin to talk about her approach to winter photography. Because it's a very special way to not only take beautiful pictures, but also to recharge your batteries in nature.

Karin, would you like to briefly introduce yourself? You are a photography coach and run Fotonomaden.com together with your husband Markus. What is your blog about?

First of all, thank you so much for having me as a guest on your wonderful blog, Mareike! Just like you, our hearts beat for nature and travel photography and that's what our blog is all about. Due to Corona, the focus had shifted more towards photography. Now we're back to writing more travel reports, in which we also like to share tips on the right photographic equipment and exciting photo spots.

Our motto is "slow & simple". Especially since Corona, we have discovered photography as a way to recharge our batteries and slow down in nature. Our approach to photography has always been to keep things as simple as possible. We stand for outdoor photography with available light and simple camera technology. Our absolute favorite topic is image composition: how to compose atmospheric photos with light, colors, textures and other creative tools.

When we travel, we also prefer to be out in nature, observing animals, hiking and, of course, taking photos. 

Do you have any simple winter photography tips for my readers?

Yes, with pleasure!

Tip no. 1: Bring color into the picture

It's worth it if you deliberately take photos in good light. Because during the so-called "golden hour", everything is bathed in warm light. These yellow, orange and red hues form a great contrast to the white snow and transform even bare winter landscapes into something special. There are free websites and apps on the internet that allow you to find out from when to when the golden hour takes place in the morning and evening at a specific location on a specific date.

If you keep your eyes open, you can discover more splashes of color than you would expect, even in winter. Incorporating something colorful into winter photos is an easy way to make them more exciting. This can include evergreen plants, colorful berries and leaves, a blue sky or lake, and colorful sunrises and sunsets.

I recommend being at the location where you want to take your photos before the golden hour begins. Then you can take your time to find great locations and motifs. When the beautiful light arrives, you can then take them in complete relaxation.

In bad weather, when the sky is overcast, the colors become paler and paler the further away the subject is. Often the sky is then even completely white and usually contributes nothing to the mood of the picture. It is therefore best to focus on the details. Because up close, the colors still come into their own.

Tip no. 2: Finding focal points

If you are not photographing natural patterns, such as frozen water surfaces, it is easier to take an exciting photo if you include a focal point in the picture. Because if there is no focal point in a photo, the eye searches around and doesn't get caught anywhere.

It is important that the focal point is always in focus. Small huts, a beautiful tree, a striking stone, a person with a colorful jacket or even a pair of snowshoes are suitable for this. It is not necessary for the person to be large in the photo. If they are rather small in the photo, you can immediately see how mighty the mountain is, how high the surrounding trees are or how big the lake is where the person is standing.

Tip no. 3: Taking photos in cold temperatures

In my opinion, it is particularly important to be well equipped in winter so that taking photos in cold temperatures is also fun. As we often kneel down or even lie down in order to be able to shoot subjects at eye level, we like to wear snowboard pants for this. It is super practical if they are additionally reinforced at the knees and buttocks. We also love our photo gloves, where you can fold away the fingertips to adjust the camera settings. They have a compartment in which you can insert a heat pad to keep your fingers warm at all times. Markus has published his own blog article with a winter photo glove test .

You should bear the following in mind with your camera equipment:

The cold discharges batteries quite quickly. It is therefore a good idea to always have fully charged spare batteries with you and to carry them close to your body to keep them warm. It's also best to leave your camera in your bag or rucksack until you start taking photos.

At home, you should not take the camera into a warm room. This could cause condensation to form and damage the electronics. It is better to put a bag of dry granules in the photo bag and leave the camera inside until it has acclimatized. Alternatively, you can also put the camera in a plastic bag so that the condensation remains on the bag.

There are fewer and fewer opportunities for classic winter photography with snow. How can you still take beautiful pictures in winter?

Yes, we know the problem. Although we live in a cold region in Lower Austria, we rarely get snow here anymore. With beautiful lighting moods (as previously mentioned), you can also take atmospheric pictures of monotonous winter landscapes. For example, a country lane that leads the eye into the picture and a little mystical foggy atmosphere are enough. In principle, lines are great design options. From a higher vantage point, for example, you can take a picture of a winding road meandering through a green coniferous forest.

I also briefly mentioned details earlier. Especially if you focus on close-up shots, you will find numerous interesting subjects even in winter. There is often a tendency to want to capture the entire winter landscape as far as the eye can see. But if there is too much in one picture, nothing really comes into its own.

Ice flowers, drops or frost on leaves and mushrooms, for example, offer an alternative way of capturing winter. If the background in the photo is blurred, the subject stands out even more. The best way to do this is to set the camera to the motif program with the flower. If you set the camera yourself, select an open aperture (= small number). Then look for a suitable location where there is nothing behind the subject for a long time (i.e. not the next branch, etc.). If you then get close to the subject when taking the photo, you can be sure that the background will be nice and blurred.

It is also important to ensure that the background is as uniform as possible. Dark spots or tangled branches, etc. quickly distract from what you actually want to show. You can see from the photos what a difference it makes if you look for a calm, regular background. You can often use the sky for this if you crouch down a little and photograph upwards.

You have written a special e-book on the subject of winter photography. What is it about?

During the corona period, I developed my "slow & simple" approach to photography. In my eyes, the mainstream approach to photography is very technical. This is also reflected in most photography books and courses. "slow & simple" photography, on the other hand, is characterized by a strong focus on image composition and the simplest possible camera technique. My aim is to help people to inspire their creativity, to switch off and to photograph with joy and ease, without pressure, and at the same time to recharge their batteries in nature. For me, this means really taking time for each individual motif instead of quickly snapping a lot of photos in passing. You definitely take more exciting pictures this way and enjoy them more.

In my "slow & simple" photography e-books (winter, forest, water, flowers & blossoms) you will always find 40 photo ideas on the respective topic. Each inspiration is accompanied by several sample images as inspiration and simply explained, easy-to-implement tips.

In the winter photography e-book, 28 of the 40 photo inspirations can be realized even without snow and ice. Most of them can even be taken with a smartphone. Four ideas are specifically for advanced photographers, for which you need to be able to set up the camera yourself. However, these are clearly marked. The winter photography e-book is therefore suitable for every skill level and every camera.

Do you also offer online courses on the subject?

Yes, we will be offering online winter photography workshops again in January and February 2024. When you register, you will receive the e-book free of charge. 

Link: https://www.fotonomaden.com/workshops/winter-fotoworkshops/

In your opinion, what is the most important thing to be able to take beautiful winter pictures?

In my opinion, two points make the biggest difference: firstly, consciously paying attention to the light. Secondly, that you really take your time for each subject. It's better to take fewer pictures and go home with more beautiful images. To make this work, I recommend taking different versions of the same subject. Check on the spot whether the focus is right, whether anything is distracting from what you actually want to show, etc.

When I think of winter photography, as a fan of Scandinavia I always think of the Northern Lights. Is that also the subject of your e-book Winter Photography?

Experiencing the Northern Lights is really something very special! Yes, there is an inspirational section dedicated to this topic in the winter e-book. But there are also other detailed articles with helpful tips on our blog. Among other things, we conducted an interview with a Northern Lights photography professional, which you can read here .

Just like you, we are big Scandinavia fans and will be traveling to the Lofoten Islands in March 2024 to photograph the Scandinavian winter and hopefully the Northern Lights. Afterwards, we will of course report in detail on our blog.

Finally, I have a very personal question for you: What is your personal favorite motif in winter that you look forward to every year?

Phew, it's difficult to limit myself to one motif because I love variety. In principle, I'm fascinated by details. In winter, I find ice the most exciting because it comes in so many different shapes and forms.

More Photography Articles to read:

Want to go on a photo tour right away, even without snow? How about a Photo Tour in "Elektropolis" - Industrial Architecture in Berlin Schöneweide or a Journey through Time to the socialist planned city of Eisenhüttenstadt??

Der Beitrag Tipps zur Winterfotografie – Interview mit den Fotonomaden erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Payed advertisement

You have collected beautiful memories on your travels that you will never forget? Now you want to keep them physically, show them to your friends or hang them in your living room? Then read on, as I have a few tips for you on how you can easily do this with your own fridge magnets or a poster print. It's a great way to bring your memories back to life.

Digital Pictures to touch

Nowadays, it's easy to take high-resolution photos of great experiences with your smartphone. You don't even need an expensive camera to take them. But most of the pictures end up as a digital data package somewhere in the depths of your phone memory or disappear into the vastness of the cloud. That's far too sad! After all, the photos from your last trip, the trip you've been looking forward to for months beforehand, deserve to be showcased. That' s why I've got five tips for you on how to make your experiences tangible in the future.

Tip 1: Photo Calendar

You have already collected a lot of pictures from different vacations, longer trips and excursions that you would like to remember? Then a photo calendar is the classic way to show off your photos.Either for your own four walls or as a gift. It's best to choose photos that match the season. For example, pictures of your last winter vacation or the icy landscapes of Antarctica are perfect for the months of January and February. On the other hand, a romantic shot of a local cherry blossom is perfect for spring. Just browse through your collected pictures. There is guaranteed to be a suitable image for every month.)

Maybe you decide for a perpetual photo calendar, where no weekdays are assigned. You can use it every year again. This is sustainable, saves money and you will enjoy it for a long time.

Tip 2: Have a Photo printed as a Poster

You have a really nice picture that you like to look at again and again? Then it's time to bring out your favorite picture in a big way: as a poster print with or without a frame, as a print on aluminum or behind acrylic glass for an elegant look. There is something for every taste. And such a large landscape panorama in landscape format looks great above the sideboard or the sofa. When printing your posters, you also have a wide range of photo papers and formats to choose from, giving you endless options for decorating your four walls.

You are not yet completely satisfied with your photos? Then a photo workshop, such as this one in the Harz Mountains, would be a great idea. There you will learn everything about technique, cropping and co. and your pictures will quickly look really professional. Just look at the internet, there you will definitely find great photo workshops near you.

Extra tip for Vanlife:
Your living room is on four wheels?
How about printing a poster for your van?
It looks great and makes it even more comfortable.

Tip 3: Photo Book

What could be better than a complete photo book from a special trip? Keep a record of your hiking tour through Scandinavia or your stay in the Harz mountains in a dedicated book that you can take out and leaf through again and again. For big trips, there are also more voluminous books, while small excursions can be captured wonderfully in a mini photo book . I particularly like DIN A4 in landscape format, because you can print a landscape panorama over a whole double page. You can design the inside according to your wishes. Many providers offer online editors that are intuitive to use and where you can save your work in your account. So you don't need any experience in image design or special software. Often you can choose between an automatic and a manual layout and arrange the images accordingly on the page.

Tip 4: Photo Magnets

You can find a selection of photo magnets in almost every souvenir store. Unfortunately, many of them don't look very appealing. How about making your own magnets? You can then use your best travel photos to individually decorate your refrigerator or attach your notes to a magnetic board.The small magnets are usually available in several sizes. They can also be used to create photo collages. This is perfect if you have a series of photos in the same style.

Extra tip for deco fans:
You love to decorate your home according to the seasons?
Then maybe a set of "winter magnets", a set of "spring magnets" etc. would be something for you.

Magnets are especially good if there is no more room for big posters in your apartment. This way you can preserve the most beautiful photos of your experiences on photo magnets in a very space-saving way.

Tip 5: Photo Puzzle for your Kids

Do you have kids? Are the little ones involved in your adventures? Then a photo puzzle could also be the perfect choice for immortalizing your experiences. The puzzles can be printed with different numbers of pieces, so you can choose the appropriate level of difficulty for your child. On boring rainy afternoons, these puzzles can work wonders. Just get your very own photo puzzle out of the closet and put it together with the kids. At the end, as soon as the motif becomes recognizable, you can reminisce together and remember this special day. By the way, the puzzle trains your child's logical thinking and short-term memory.

Is there something in it for you? Then it's your turn. Have fun looking through your photo collection and enjoy designing and printing your posters and calendars. Do you have any questions about my article? Then just write me a comment.

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love photography as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles with photo tips for great penguin photos or my tips on how to best photograph the picturesque Mono Lake in California.

Der Beitrag Erinnerungen und Erlebnisse verewigen – 5 Tipps für eure schönsten Fotos erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Georgia. During the Soviet times, many impressive buildings were built in the former Soviet Union. Especially the bizarre, futuristic-looking buildings in the style of Soviet Modernism and Brutalism attract attention. And if you look closely, you can even discover large-scale mosaics or reliefs on some of the buildings. Also in Tbilisi, the capital of Georgia, unique icons of Soviet architecture and Brutalism were created during this time.

Non-solicited, unpaid advertising. This article contains affiliate links*, marked with an asterisk.

If you are interested in Soviet architecture, you will love Tbilisi!

We took a guided tour of Tbilisi's Soviet architecture and Brutalism with expert Nini Palavandishvili. This was comfortably by car through the city center as well as to the outskirts of Tbilisi. If you have a little more time, it is also possible to visit the buildings by public transport.

Other worthwhile day trips from Tbilisi include a visit to the Vardsia Cave Monastery*or a tour of the legendary Cable Cars of Chiatura*.

Yesterday's Visions of the Future: Soviet Architecture in Tbilisi

When one hears the term "Soviet architecture", one has in mind either the monumental buildings in the Zuckerbäcker style or the futuristic buildings of Soviet Modernism. Both architectural styles are very different. Here is a brief overview:

Soviet Realism (Classicism) 1950-55

In Stalin's time, architecture was not only a question of functionality and aesthetics, but rather a question of attitude. The general happiness promised by the communist worldview included people living in magnificent palaces. Urban planning was subject to certain rules and development plans, and architects planned according to strict specifications. Public buildings in particular were supposed to impress with their architecture and were seen as signposts to the future. Soviet Realism is also often called Zuckerbäckerstil "wedding cake style". This is because the often monumental buildings with their lavish decorations quickly make one think of the form and decoration of wedding cakes. The death of Stalin was also the end of this architectural style.

By the way, you can also see beautiful examples of the Zuckerbäckerstil during a walk along Karl-Marx-Allee (formerly Stalinallee) in Berlin .

Soviet Modernism from 1955 to 1991 and Brutalism

While Soviet Realism can still be seen as a signpost to the future, Soviet Modernism has arrived in the future. The buildings seem futuristic, stand out and somehow fall out of concept.

Soviet Modernism and Brutalism, unlike Soviet Realism, seem to dispense with any guidelines. Each building is different and unique. Sometimes the beauty of the buildings is only apparent at second glance, often they are scorned as an ugly legacy from the Soviet era. But those who take a closer look are quickly taken in by the architecture, which seems to follow no rules whatsoever. Unfortunately, many of these buildings were abandoned after the collapse of the Soviet Union, fell into disrepair and were demolished.

The roots of Soviet Modernism were laid by the French architect Le Corbusier. Particularly impressive are the buildings created in the late Soviet phase from the 1960s to the beginning of the 1980s. They are classified as "Soviet Brutalism". The term brutalism does not stand for brutality but for "béton brut". This is French and means "raw concrete" in German. This architectural style was significantly influenced by the architect Le Corbusier. Characteristic features are simple geometric shapes, emphasis on the construction itself and the use of exposed concrete.

In the buildings in the style of Soviet Modernism, instead of the raw concrete also often used cladding materials, such as marble, sandstone, shell limestone or cheaper substitute material.

Mosaics and reliefs of the Soviet period

As early as the 1930s, art was used to spread communist propaganda. Numerous large-scale mosaics were created, decorating the facades of buildings or even bus stops. They depicted scenes from the world of work, science, technology, as well as family and sports. In the Soviet republics further away from Moscow, national and folkloric motifs were also mixed in.

The commissions for the mosaics were given centrally to mosaic workshops. As a result, the artists who created the mosaics are often not even known. Only since the last years a systematic documentation of the still existing mosaics takes place. Just like many buildings of Soviet architecture and Brutalism, many of the works of art in Tbilisi are unfortunately already lost, dilapidated or built over.

Bank of Georgia (former Ministry of Road Construction)

The former Ministry of Road Construction is a timeless appearance of floating blocks stacked on top of each other à la Tetris. It is one of the most important buildings of Soviet architecture in Tbilisi and even in all of Georgia. Even today, the building is a real eye-catcher.

When planning the building, the architects followed the concept of the "space city", which is patented in Georgia. The idea is to use less floor space by building a house on columns. Nature should be less affected and light open spaces should be created, as between the tree trunk (the supports of the house) and the tree crown (the building's beams). In the end, everything should benefit the psychological well-being of the residents.

Since 2006, the building has belonged to the Bank of Georgia, which has used it as its headquarters since 2010. In 2007, the complex was listed as a National Monument.

Architects: Giorgi Chakhava, Zurab Jalagonia
Completion date: 1975
Address: 29a Iuri Gagarini St, Tbilisi, Gruzja

Tbilisi Skybridge

The skyscrapers on the outskirts of Tbilisi were among the most impressive pieces of Soviet architecture we visited. These three tall apartment buildings were built on the slopes in Nutsubidze Street. All three are connected by a skybridge. You can reach the bridge by taking the elevator to the 14th floor in the first block. For this you need a 20 Tetri coin, which you put into a slot machine in the elevator. I would not recommend the staircase, because it is mostly locked at the top. From the elevator you can walk over the bridge through the buildings. You will pass a small bench and a tiny store on the 14th floor. From the skybridge you also have a great view of the surrounding living quarters. At the end of the bridge you come out at the top of the slope on the street.

Architect: Otar Kalandarishvili, Gizo Potskhishvili
Construction period: 1974-1976
Address: Shalva Nutsubidze St, Tbilisi, Gruzja

You are planning a road trip?

Travel Guide Book – Georgia – Caucasus*

This book by OunTravela invites you to explore the wildest corners of Georgia. Along 24 routes you will discover picturesque landscapes, rugged mountains, monasteries, fortresses, and centuries-old fortified towers. In addition to detailed descriptions of the 4x4 routes, you will find a wealth of additional information about the country and its people as well as tips for your planning. The latter range from suggestions for overnight campsites to rental companies of expedition-ready 4x4 vehicles and worthwhile photo spots. You can also purchase a map and GPS tracks for navigation.

Museum of Archaeology

The Museum of Archaeology is reminiscent of an Egyptian temple. It is perched on a hill right next to the Saint Nino Monument. Unfortunately, the museum has never been opened. Nevertheless, it houses an archaeological collection inside and is therefore locked and closely guarded.

Architects: Sh. Kavlashvili and Sh. Gwantseladze
Completion date: 1988
Address: 9, Motsikulta Stsori Nino St

Mosaic at Saburtalo Fire Station

The huge mosaic on the facade of the fire station focuses on a fireman. Around him, several well-known buildings of Tbilisi can be seen. Among them is the medieval Metekhi Church, the Circus, as well as the Sports Palace and the former Iveria Hotel in the style of Soviet Modernism. In addition, the mosaic depicts buildings with Persian and Byzantine architecture. This juxtaposition is intended to illustrate that in Tbilisi East and West meet.

Artist: Givi Kervalishvili
Completion date: 1979
Address: Gorgasali St 34, behind Ortachala Bus Station

Ortachala Central Bus Station

Between 1964 and 1973, a new central bus station was built in Ortachala. This was designed to handle around 18,500 passengers per day. In addition to the actual bus stops, the station also includes restaurants, cafes, stores and a hotel. The facades of the building are clad with natural stone and in large part also glazed. Next to the staircase, the mosaic "History of Transport" by Zurab Tsereteli is placed on the facade.

Architects: Ramaz Kiknadze, Vladimir Kurtishvili and Shota Kavlashvili
Artist: Zurab Tsereteli
Completion date: 1973
Address: Ortachala Bus Station

Book recommendations for architecture fans

Can't get enough of Soviet architecture and mosaics either? Then take a closer look at these three books*. You will love them.

Technical Library

Completed in 1986, the Technical Library is another prestigious object of Soviet Modernism and Brutalism in Tbilisi. The structure is an elongated bar surrounded by a dark concrete ring. The windows are framed by a seemingly endless repetition of fan-like concrete swords.

Architect: G. Bichiashvili
Completion date: 1986
Address: 47 Merab Kostava St

Laguna Vere Water and Sports Complex

The swimming complex with three pools, slide, a sports hall and a tribune for 5,500 spectators was completed in 1978. It hosted not only national but also international events. However, the complex became less and less profitable over time and finally closed in 2014. Today, the facility serves car dealers as a workshop and warehouse. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to enter the complex. However, we were able to sneak onto the grandstand from the back and look down on the now overgrown pool from above.

There is also a monumental mosaic preserved above the entrance area on the street. It is one of the longest mosaics in all of Georgia.

Architects and artists: Shota Kavlashvili, Guram Abuladze, Ramaz Kiknadze, Koka Ignatov
Completion date : 1978
Address: M. Kostava St 34

Mother Georgia

Twenty meters high "Mother Georgia" was erected to celebrate the 1500th anniversary of Tbilisi. In one hand she holds a bowl of wine with which she welcomes guests. But in the other hand she carries a sword with which she fights off enemies. The statue, originally made of wood and later covered with aluminum, was replaced by a new one in 1997.

Sculptor: Elguja Amashukeli
Completion date: 1958
Address: Sololaki St

Radio Computing Centre

The Radio Computing Centre belongs to the Radio Fortuna Holding. It was formerly also known as Transcaucasia Power Control Centre or Managing Computing Centre of the United Board of Energy System of Transcaucasia.

Architects:: S. Kavlashvili, G. Djanebirdze and S. Katsitadze
Completion date: 1973

Other Buildings

Unfortunately, our time in Tbilisi was very limited. But since I immediately took the city into my heart, I hope to return soon. Because there are many more impressive buildings of Soviet architecture and in the style of Brutalism waiting, such as the campus of the University of Tbilisi.

Book Recommendations for Georgia

Do you want to know where the journey is going? Then I can recommend this travel guides* to you.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Did you like the Soviet Architecture and Brutalism in Tbilisi? Do you have any questions about my article? If yes, then write me a comment!

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Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love Soviet architecture and lost places as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about Eisenhüttenstadt or about the GDR Architecture in Berlin.

Der Beitrag Zukunftsvisionen von Gestern: Sowjetische Architektur in Tiflis erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Georgia. For more than 60 years, the "hanging coffins" transported the inhabitants of the industrial city of Chiatura to windy heights. But since summer 2019, the legendary cable cars of Chiatura have been at a standstill. In the end, the gondolas were a bit too rusty and the technology too outdated. But the cable car stations from the 1950s and 60s are still there and are witnesses to the history and the former glory of the city. And usually one or the other gondola still hangs in the air very close to the stations.

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links.

When we visited Chiatura in July 2021, we were overwhelmed by the impressions. However, we were also a bit disoriented. There are indeed numerous blog articles on the Internet with great photos when the cable cars of Chiatura were still in operation. But where the photos were taken remained unclear. To make your search for Tschiatura's treasures a little easier, I have therefore compiled my favorite photo motifs in a map. So you can explore the city on your own and know immediately what awaits you where.

But first, let's go back to a time when Chiatura still looked into a rosy future.

In this Article you will find

Short History of Chiatura and the Cable Cars
Cable Cars, Buildings, Pioneer Palace and more
What's next for Chiatura?
How to get to Chiatura
What is the best way to get around the City?
What else is there in the Area?
Book Recommendations for Georgia

Short History of Tschiatura and the Cable Cars

Tschiatura was founded at the end of the 19th century and before the First World War possessed the largest manganese ore deposit in the world. Manganese mining at that time amounted to 60% of the world production. Even during the Soviet era, the city remained an important center of manganese mining. Investments were made, including the construction of ropeways.

Chiatura is located in a deeply cut, long valley of the Kvirila River. The main means of transportation were cable cars with a total length of more than 6,000 meters. The first cableway was built in Chiatura in 1953. More lines followed in the 1950s and 1960s. In total, there were 70 ropeways for transporting people, materials and manganese ore. This made Chiatura the city with the most ropeways in the world. For a long time, the hand-operated gondolas were the only means of public transportation in the city.

The cable cars operated almost without interruption until the summer of 2019. But eventually, the last two remaining passenger cable cars stopped operating due to official orders. During our stay we could only see one cargo line for the transport of ore in operation.

Cable Cars, Buildings, Pioneer Palace and more

Map with Photo Motifs

In the following map I marked most of the motives I describe in this chapter with a camera pin. For each pin there is also a small photo. So you can orientate yourselves more easily. The map should be a little help for your own explorations. However, there is so much more to discover in Chiatura and I could have easily spent two or three days here.

Tip: In the free app Maps.me you can download an offline map of Georgia. The map shows the cable car stations and lines. So you can explore even more stations.

Monumental Welcome

We entered the city on the main road coming from the west. Shortly after the town entrance sign, Chiatura greets us with an overwhelming monument commemorating World War II. Next to it, several prefabricated buildings provide a great background.

In the City Center

We wind our way down the road into the Kvirila Valley. Soon we reach the center of town with a small market, numerous stores, and typical chaotic city traffic. After parking our Lada, we are off. We don't know exactly where to go and stroll through the city for the time being. Every few meters we discover something new that fascinates us. Soon we come to the first cable car station. Shortly before the station a red-yellow gondola is still hanging. Remnants of the advertising signage are still visible.

From the underpass under the railroad tracks we come to the bridge over the Kvirila. To the right and left are architectural gems such as City Hall and the Registry Office, as well as whimsical structures on the riverbank housing stores.

In the center of the city, the elongated row of stores on the main street is a real eye-catcher. We follow the main street to the traffic circle on Ninoshvili Street. Here we find a large mosaic on the facade of the school.

Back on the main road we go a little further uphill and come to a market. There is also an old cable car station here.

Highlight of Chiatura: the Stalin Ropeway and Peace Ropeway

From here we walk along the bank of the Kvirila back towards the car. Very close to our parking place one of the highlights of Chiatura is waiting for us: the station of the Peace Ropeway and the Stalin Ropeway. The station itself is meanwhile firmly closed, but also from the outside it is a great motive and one can peek in at several places. I quickly spotted the black and white graffiti on the wall. Unfortunately only a part of it is visible, but I recognize it from photos on the internet: it shows a kneeling miner with a shovel. On both lines there are still two gondolas hanging in the air.

From the station, the yellow gondolas of the Stalin Ropeway across the river to the opposite mountain. This line was the first cable car in the Soviet Union in 1953. Accordingly, the gondolas are now rusty and the windows are cloudy from dirt and scratches. One gondola could carry six passengers. In addition, a gondola lady rode in each gondola. Her job was to ensure safe operation and report any abnormalities in the gondola to the mechanic.

The Peace Line goes north from the station. It is the line with the blue gondolas and dates back to 1964. This line is also the steepest cable car in Chiatura with a 48 degree incline and is even one of the steepest in the world. In the small gondolas fit just 4 people. There are also no more windows, as in the Stalin cable car, but only small barred portholes.

Detour to the Pioneer Palace

South of the Kvirila River, high up on the slope, is the former Pioneer Palace. You can reach it either by cable car or by your own car. The palace still shows its former splendor. The wide entrance staircase is lined with a large semicircle of columns. Some of them have already collapsed. The entire building is badly dilapidated and it appears that it will collapse like a house of cards at the next slight breeze. I myself did not go inside. Cows are less fearful and use the empty building as a shelter.

Cargo Ropeway in Action

We leave the city along the river in the direction of Tbilisi. After a short ride we finally see one of Chiatura's cable cars in action. It is a freight line for transporting the mined ore. Several gondolas cross the track, which is covered with nets in places. The nets are a damn good idea, because there are actually several chunks of rock in them that have fallen out of the ore gondolas.

Not far behind the freight gondolas is another disused passenger ropeway. Here, too, a gondola hangs in the air just before the station. You will also find an adventurous narrow pedestrian bridge leading to an industrial building.

Photo Motifs at the Exit of Chiatura

At the town exit we see a large Tschiatura sign and a green stele with a wreath. To the right of the road there are tracks and behind a fence there is a railroad wagon. All four give each of them again great photo motifs to say goodbye.

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What's next for Chiatura?

The legendary "hanging coffins" of Chiatura are now hanging in the air. So is the town's application to be included on the UNESCO World Heritage List. The rusty gondolas and Soviet-style cable car stations have long been the heartbeat of the city. So much of the city's history and individual stories are linked to the cable cars that, in my view, it would be unthinkable to abandon or even demolish the gondolas and stations. I wish so much for the city to be included in the industrial heritage list and would be happy if the shuttered sites were preserved and prepared for tourist visits. However, it is unclear whether this will succeed. After all, the new cable cars of Chiatura may be an obstacle for inclusion in the UNESCO list.

A little tourism would certainly do the city good. After all, the manganese reserves will not last forever. In about 15 years, the deposits in the area are expected to be exhausted. What will happen to the jobs and the inhabitants of the mining town then? The population has already shrunk by almost half since the early 1990s. The reason for this at the time was problems with electricity, water and gas supplies, as well as declining manganese mining. Today, around 13,000 people live in the city. How many of them then still see their future in a mining town without mining?

How to get to Chiatura

Chiatura is located about 60 kilometers from Kutaisi. It takes about 1.5 hours to reach the city by rental car or marshrutka. From Tbilisi it takes about 2-3 hours.

The city can also be reached by train. There are also guided tours from Tbilisi at GetYourGuide.

What is the best way to get around the City?

The center and some of the cable car stations in the valley can be explored very well on foot. Since the old cable cars of Tschiatura are no longer running, it is not so easy to reach the upper stations.

A new, modern cable car with four stations is currently under construction. Everything looked ready in July 2021. However, none was in operation yet. Possibly, the launch, like many other things, has been delayed by Covid-19. The main station of the new cable car is located in the center next to the river and near the stores.

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Click on the image to go to Amazon. If you buy a product through this affiliate link, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting content. The product will not be more expensive for you and you do me a huge favor.

What else is there in the Area?

Only about 10 kilometers west of Chiatura is Kazchi Pillar. This is a freestanding rock about 40 meters high, on which there is a tiny monastery.

About halfway in the direction of Tbilisi is the town of Gori, where Stalin was born. The Stalin Museum was opened here in 1957 in his honor. Don't expect a detailed rehash of the atrocities the dictator committed during his reign here. It's more like a big cult palace, even souvenirs like coffee mugs, fridge magnets, baseball caps or backgammon games with Stalin's portrait are available here. was opened here in 1957 in his honor. Don't expect a detailed rehash of the atrocities the dictator committed during his reign here. It's more like a big cult palace, even souvenirs like coffee mugs, fridge magnets, baseball caps or backgammon games with Stalin's portrait are available here.

Book Recommendations for Georgia

Do you want to know where the journey is going? Then I can recommend this travel guides* to you.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Have you ever been to Chiatura and maybe even used one of the cable cars? How did you like it? Do you have any questions about my article? If yes, then write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love Soviet architecture and lost places as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about Eisenhüttenstadt or about the GDR Architecture in Berlin.

Der Beitrag Tschiatura – Legendäre Seilbahnen, Lost Places, Sowjetarchitektur und mehr erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.