Romania. The morning is quiet in Breb. Fog hangs in the valley, and smoke rises from the chimneys of the timber-framed farmhouses. John, my host, proudly shows me his own distillery. In a shed resembling a cowshed, he produces traditional Țuică here. Like almost everyone here in Maramures, which is arguably one of the most remote regions in the country. Maramures is known for its UNESCO-listed wooden churches, the “Merry Cemetery,” and its traditional crafts. Most people visit the area in the fall, during harvest season. I, on the other hand, am drawn to experiencing Maramures in the winter.

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Surrounded by Mountains

Maramures is located in the far north of Romania and is surrounded by the Eastern Carpathians. From the Rodna Mountains in the southeast of Maramures, Pietrosul Rodnei—at 2,303 meters, the highest peak in the Eastern Carpathians—looks down upon the valley basin. To the north and northeast, along the border with Ukraine, stretch the sparsely populated Maramures Mountains. It is precisely this mountainous location that has allowed many old traditions, architectural styles, and customs to survive in Maramures to this day. Winters used to be long and harsh, with snowfalls sometimes cutting off roads and villages from the outside world for days on end. But climate change is making itself felt: In the winter of 2024/25, there was almost no snow at all.

The landscape itself is one of rugged beauty: Dense spruce, fir, and beech forests characterize large parts of the region; at higher elevations, alpine meadows are home to gentian, arnica, and wild berry bushes. In spring and summer, species-rich mountain meadows bloom, while winter creates a quiet expanse. The fauna is equally impressive: brown bears, wolves, and lynx roam the forests, red deer and roe deer graze at the forest edges, and golden eagles and other birds of prey circle above the valleys.

The wild heart of the region is the Maramures Mountain National Park, which, at over 150,000 hectares, is one of Romania’s largest national parks. But even here, the wilderness is not safe. In recent decades, Romania has repeatedly faced criticism for illegal logging. Entire slopes disappeared as logging companies used chainsaws to penetrate deeper into the forests than was permitted. The EU has issued multiple warnings to Romania because protected areas were not being consistently monitored.

Wooden Houses, wooden Gates, and wooden Churches in Maramures

Wood is the material that defines Maramures like nothing else. Houses, fences, gates, and entire churches here are carved, doweled, and assembled. The most famous examples are the wooden churches. Eight of them are officially designated as UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Each one is unique. In winter, they look even more impressive: the tall, pointed towers pierce the gray sky like spears, and when you step inside, every beam creaks.

I visit the wooden church in Desești, a smaller but colorful place of worship. Frescoes dance across the walls, depicting the Last Judgment: angels guiding souls, devils devouring them. These churches are not only places of worship but also community centers and testaments to centuries-old craftsmanship. The Bârsana Monastery, in particular, remains etched in my memory. Its wooden church with its slender towers rises beautifully above the slopes. Pilgrims come here even in winter. It is a place of faith and a total work of art made of wood, stone, and landscape. Equally impressive is the Peri Monastery in Săpânța, whose 78-meter-tall wooden church is considered the tallest wooden church in the world.

The traditional wooden architecture of the villages in Maramureș is among the most impressive examples of rural building traditions in Europe and reflects a centuries-old tradition of craftsmanship. Characteristic features include houses built entirely of wood, with steep shingle roofs that slope deeply downward to withstand the harsh winters of the Carpathian region. Particularly striking are the artistically carved wooden gates, which not only serve as entrances to the courtyard but also symbolize the family’s social status and identity. The largest and most elaborate wooden gates can cost up to 20,000 euros. They often feature ornamental motifs such as ropes, sun wheels, or trees of life, which promise protection and fertility. The region’s famous wooden churches, several of which are UNESCO World Heritage sites, also bear witness to the masterful combination of functionality, spirituality, and aesthetic appeal—a living heritage that is preserved to this day in many villages.

The “Merry Cemetery” of Săpânța

Wood also plays a central role at the famous “Merry Cemetery”—the Cimitirul Vesel—in Săpânța. Instead of somber gravestones, there are blue wooden crosses here. The crosses are made of wood, mostly oak, and hand-carved. At the top, they feature a relief or an image: someone baking bread, a farmer plowing, a man in a hat, a woman spinning, scenes from everyday life, but also scenes such as someone being run over by a car or struck by lightning. Below the image is a saying, a short poem, often with a touch of humor or irony. The background color is a deep blue, “Săpânta Blue,” accented with borders and ornaments in red, yellow, green, and white, all of which are uniquely designed.

I walk among the graves, looking at images of the deceased. I stop in front of a cross. It shows a woman at her loom. My guide translates:

“Here I rest, a weaver,
My husband drank a lot, but I forgave him.
Now I finally have my peace,
And hopefully he does too—somewhere.”

A few steps further:

“Here I rest beneath this cross, Pop Ion,
I lived 50 years with my vice: schnapps.
And when you pass by, don’t laugh too hard —
It was a fine drink, I swear to you!”

These verses reflect the village community—honest and often crude. They show who someone was, not who they should have been.

The Man Who brought Color to Death

Across from the church lies the grave of Stan Ioan Pătraș (1908–1977). It is adorned with the same vibrant colors he once infused into his life’s work. Pătraș was born in Săpânța in 1908, grew up in a simple farming family, and began carving wooden crosses as a young man. At first, they were plain, but in the 1930s, he had the idea of bringing some color to death with blue, red, and yellow. He carved scenes from the lives of the deceased and composed verses. In doing so, he broke with all conventions and laid the foundation for a unique cultural monument. Stan Ioan Pătraș founded the cemetery in the 1930s.

His art began to gain international attention in the 1960s. After Pătraș’s death, his student Dumitu Pop Tincu continued the work. Today, there are around 1,300 crosses here, each a small work of art and a brief biography.

The Merry Cemetery is a national monument and part of Romania’s UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage. Around 150,000 people visit it annually—pilgrims, tourists, and art lovers alike. There are also plans for a small museum where old grave crosses, which have been replaced by restored ones, will be displayed.

The tradition lives on. Today, Dumitu Pop Tincu, Pătraș’s student and successor, carries on the work. It takes two to three weeks to make a cross, and it costs around 2,300 euros. That’s a lot of money, considering the average monthly wage in this region is about 780 euros.

Crafts and Domestic Life

The long winter evenings are devoted to handicrafts. The wood-burning stove warms the living room, and colorful fabrics for ornate traditional costumes are created on the loom. People embroider, spin, and sew. Clothing, rugs, blankets, and tablecloths are made right at home, whether for personal use, as commissioned work, or for sale in the summer.

In Sârbi, a neighboring village of Breb, I see a watermill. Here, raw wool is processed using water power, and laundry is washed in an open-air whirlpool in the stream. In winter, however, the mills stand still, for everything is frozen and waiting for spring.

Traditional Costumes

Traditional clothing is part of one’s identity. Women wear white blouses with delicate embroidery, woolen aprons, and colorful headscarves. Men, on the other hand, wear black hats and vests, and thick sheepskin coats in winter. This clothing is not merely folklore for tourists; it is worn as a matter of course at church festivals and weddings and is carefully stored the rest of the year in a separate room: the dowry room. Since the textiles stored here were of crucial importance for a young woman’s dowry, this room was a source of pride, where handmade blouses, vests, and skirts, among other items, were displayed. The patterns are not random. They tell stories, bear protective symbols, and commemorate the ancestors.

Woodworking

Traditional woodworking in Maramureș is deeply rooted in the region’s everyday culture and is regarded as an expression of artisanal mastery and symbolic imagery. For generations, woodcarvers have used simple tools and time-honored techniques to create artistic functional and decorative objects from oak, spruce, or fir. I see carving horses—wooden benches into which the workpieces are clamped—in almost every yard. The richly decorated farm gates are a particularly well-known example of woodcraft. But furniture, spoons, spinning wheels, and roof shingles are also crafted with great care and often individually decorated. Knowledge of these techniques is mostly passed down within families, ensuring that woodworking remains a vibrant part of the regional identity to this day.

SIDE NOTE: Building Your Own Carving Horse (Advertisement) (Werbung)

’m passionate about working with wood and built my own carving horse in early 2026. It can even be taken apart into individual pieces, making it easy to transport. It’s a fantastic piece of equipment. The build was guided and organized by Christoph Maretzek from the Guide Academy Europe (GAE). . If you’d like to build one yourself, I highly recommend reaching out to him.

Self-Sufficiency

Many families are self-sufficient. In the summer, they pickle vegetables, smoke bacon, and distill fruit into schnapps. Every household has supplies that are carefully preserved. The standard of living may seem modest by Western standards, and incomes are significantly lower than those in Western Europe. Yet self-sufficiency fosters a sense of independence that has long since been lost in cities.

Horse-drawn carts or ox-drawn teams are a common sight on the roads. They bring hay or firewood to the farms. Almost every villager keeps animals: chickens roam freely, goats, cows, and pigs stay in the barns during the winter, and the sheep also remain near the farms during the cold season. They are joined by large, shaggy herding dogs, the Carpatin or Mioritic. They have been bred in the Carpathians for centuries. Their mission is clear: to protect the herds from bears and wolves.

Closing Remarks

Maramures in winter is not a bustling tourist destination. There are no ski slopes, most restaurants are closed, and sometimes you’re the only visitor of the day at a museum. Amid the scent of wood smoke, creaking church beams, and frozen streams, I experienced a region that has not forgotten its roots and embodies heartwarming hospitality. It’s not staged—it’s simply the way it is. Maramures is not a place for those in a hurry, but for visitors willing to immerse themselves in the silence, the crafts, the nature, and the people who live here.

Book Recommendations for Romania

Would you like to learn more about wildlife observation? Then I have three book recommendations for you. You can order the books* from Amazon by clicking on the images. If you buy a book or another article via an affiliate link, I will receive a small commission, and you will help me to continue to fill Wanderlust Motifs with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you.

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Recommendations for further Reading

Do you enjoy winter in Maramures? Then you’ll surely be interested in the following two articles:

Der Beitrag Winter in Maramures – Reise in den abgeschiedenen Norden Rumäniens erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Romania. The Danube Delta is known to many nature lovers as a birdwatching paradise. Many birdwatchers come here during the migration season or to observe the summer breeding season. However, the Danube Delta is hardly known as a winter destination. But it is precisely at this time of year that the mighty Dalmatian pelicans and Pallas's gulls show off their beautiful breeding plumage. The sparse winter vegetation also makes the animals easy to spot on the riverbanks. In addition to the Dalmatian pelicans, it was the chance to see golden jackals, raccoon dogs, and wildcats that drew me to this remote region.

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The Water begins at the End of the Road

The evening in Tulcea feels like a transition between two worlds. From the city, also known as the “Gateway to the Danube Delta,” the only way to continue is by boat. We hoist our luggage into the small boat at the jetty. There is no one else at the harbor except us. It is raining. Everyone finds a place on the beanbags in the boat, pulls warm lambskin overshoes over their boots, and wraps themselves in the blankets provided. We get our cameras ready by the light of our headlamps. It is shortly before eight o'clock in the evening. Soon after we set off, all the lights of the city have disappeared, and only the red/green side lights of our boat bring some light into the darkness. Our guide scans the banks with night vision goggles for crepuscular and nocturnal animals. I, too, stare intently into the dark landscape and imagine I can make something out. After a while, I give up and just watch our guide, seeing which direction he points the night vision device and whether he raises his hand with the flashlight. Within the first hour of our boat trip to the village of Mila 23, we see two minks, two raccoon dogs, a tawny owl, and a deer.

There are only four of us, an unusually small group for a photography trip, accompanied by our guide from the nature tour operator Sakertours and our boatman. After about three hours on the boat, we reach our destination in Mila 23.

Danube Delta Biosphere Reserve

The Danube Delta Biosphere Reserve is a vast labyrinth of water and land on the border between Romania and Ukraine. The delta consists of countless lakes, canals, and islands at the end of the approximately 2,860 km long Danube River. Covering 5,800 square kilometers, it is the largest contiguous wetland and reed bed in Europe. The area is known as an Eldorado for birdwatchers, with 312 recorded bird species. Countless fish and mammal species find refuge in this mosaic of water and land, which has been designated a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and World Natural Heritage Site since 1991. The delta is also one of the last refuges for the European mink, the wildcat, the freshwater otter, and the globally endangered monk seal. Around 13,000 people live in small villages that can only be reached by boat. The main economic activities in the biosphere reserve are fishing, hunting, reed harvesting, livestock farming, subsistence farming, and tourism.

Mila 23 and Life in Winter in the Danube Delta

The small village of Mila 23 on the edge of one of the many canals looks more like a collection of boats than a settlement. There are no roads here, only wooden walkways, boats in front of the houses, and a few narrow paths. Many residents of the village, as well as the delta as a whole, belong to the Lipovan community, descendants of Russian Old Believers who found refuge here in the 18th century. Our guesthouse is family-run and impresses us over the following days with excellent local cuisine, which, as expected, offers plenty of fish from the waters on the doorstep.

In the weeks leading up to our trip, I had checked the weather forecast every day. What could I expect in winter in the Danube Delta? The forecast temperatures ranged from minus fourteen to plus fourteen degrees Celsius, with snow, ice, and true spring weather. Just the week before, there was snow on the ground, and the waterways were partially frozen. But now, at the beginning of February, the thermometer shows a few degrees above zero, the snow has disappeared, the ice has melted, and instead heavy clouds hang over the river and a fine drizzle alternates with heavy showers. Not the conditions photographers dream of, but perhaps exactly those that give a photo that certain atmosphere.

Winter is the off-season here in the Danube Delta. Most hotels and tourist attractions are closed, and visitors don't start arriving until April, when migratory birds stop over and the breeding season begins. But now the delta belongs almost exclusively to the locals and the animals. It is precisely this tranquility that makes it so appealing.

Golden Jackals from the Photo Hide

On two of the three days, our small photography group splits up. Two of us take the boat and search for water birds, while the other two move into a small photo hide at the edge of the reed belt. I can hardly wait to get into the hide and eagerly set up my camera. We are in luck: after just half an hour, two golden jackals appear, looking beautiful in their thick winter coats. They look like a cross between a fox and a small wolf. Golden jackals have spread rapidly in recent decades, as there is plenty of food and cover in the delta.

We are able to observe the five animals for over an hour. They are extremely shy in the open meadow and keep looking around in all directions, even up into the air. Probably not without reason. Two of the jackals have clearly visible old injuries, either from fights or traps: a partially severed tail, a partially missing front paw, an injured eye, and a bent ear testify to the enormous resilience and strength of these wild animals.

From our hiding place, we can observe other animals, including buzzards, a marsh harrier, gray herons, hooded crows, magpies, a gray woodpecker, and two pheasants.

Boat Trip in Rain and Fog

Our second day begins before sunrise again with strong coffee and a richly laid breakfast table. It is raining outside, and even after sunrise, it seems as if it will not get light today. We pull the tarpaulin over the boat and wrap ourselves in blankets. The further we go, the wider the river becomes, and then it divides into branches that branch out again until it seems impossible to find our way, and only walls of reeds pass by on the left and right. As the boat chugs slowly through the gray water, we keep an eye out for birds. First, we spot a little grebe, then pygmy cormorants, gray herons, coots, and great crested grebes. Later in the afternoon, the rain stops, and a veil of fog descends over the water.

Our return trip to our accommodation is a real blind flight in the fog. Sometimes we can barely see fifty meters ahead, and we can only move slowly. Great white egrets emerge like white ghosts from the gray soup, gray herons stand motionless on the shore, almost unnoticed, and great crested grebes disappear with a plop beneath the surface of the water. Although everything is damp and the light is dim, this is precisely when very atmospheric images emerge, with landscapes that resemble paintings rather than photographs.

Pelicans in their Breeding Plumage

Our last day is devoted entirely to the Dalmatian pelicans. Right at the start of the trip, we already see several young birds. After a short stop, we continue on our way, searching for the adult birds, whose shaggy head feathers and bright orange throat pouches look almost exotic in their breeding plumage. On a larger lake, we finally discover the silhouettes of several pelicans, huge birds with a wingspan of up to three meters.

With several thousand breeding pairs, the Danube Delta is home to one of the most important colonies in Europe, accounting for a significant proportion of the world's population. They remain in the area throughout the year. In spring, the Dalmatian pelicans are joined by pink pelicans, which breed in large colonies in the Danube Delta.

We brought the pelicans some fish, which gave us the opportunity to watch the animals feeding. The pelicans use their throat pouches as nets to scoop up fish and water. The water is then drained before the fish is swallowed. The throat pouch is extremely stretchy and can hold ten to twelve liters of water.

The Pallas's gull is named after the German naturalist Peter Simon Pallas (1741–1811), who first described the species in 1773. It is the largest gull with a black head (in breeding plumage) and the third largest gull species worldwide. The species is mainly found in the steppe lakes of Central Asia and the coastal regions of the Caspian Sea. The population in the Danube Delta is the westernmost occurrence.

Nighttime in the Danube Delta

Wildcats

Every evening, we spend several hours searching for crepuscular and nocturnal animals. The European wildcat lives in the vast Danube Delta with its dense riparian forest and numerous refuges. The animals usually remain invisible to visitors because they are not only nocturnal but also extremely shy. Wildcats avoid open areas, preferring to stay in dense riparian forests and reed beds, where they use hiding places such as fallen tree trunks or hollow trunks to protect themselves from disturbance during the day. They only go hunting after dusk.

Three times, our guide spots a wildcat on the shore with his night vision goggles. But in the glow of the flashlight, it quickly disappears. I only see the animal balancing on a branch for a brief moment and can only photograph its rear end with my camera.

Raccoon Dogs

I have often heard of raccoon dogs, but never seen one. So I am all the more delighted when we spot two animals during an evening boat tour. The raccoon dog is native to East Asia. Between 1928 and the 1950s, thousands of animals were released in Russia, Belarus, and Ukraine. The aim was to establish a new fur animal species for the hunting and fur industry. The animals proved to be adaptable, fertile, and prolific. From these populations, the raccoon dog migrated independently.

Farewell to the Danube Delta

Our return trip from Mila23 to Tulcea is another night journey. After a sumptuous three-course dinner, we make ourselves comfortable in the boat again and keep our cameras at the ready. We see several nutrias in the water, tawny owls, and mice swimming in the water. During the trip, fog rolls in again, and we can only chug slowly through the canals. A typical winter in the Danube Delta. I lean back in my beanbag, listen to the water lapping against the hull, and think about how rare such places have become in Europe.

Book Recommendations for Nature Lovers

Would you like to learn more about wildlife observation? Then I have three book recommendations for you. You can order the books* from Amazon by clicking on the images. If you buy a book or another article via an affiliate link, I will receive a small commission, and you will help me to continue to fill Wanderlust Motifs with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you.

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Recommendations for further Reading

If you like the Danube Delta in winter, then you will certainly be interested in the following articles:

Der Beitrag Donaudelta im Winter – Auf Fototour zu Goldschakalen und Pelikanen erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Germany. It is early December. The two-and-a-half-hour ferry crossing from Cuxhaven to Heligoland can be a wild ride at this time of year. But right now, something very special is attracting many nature lovers to Germany's offshore island: the birth season of the gray seals. From November to January, hundreds of gray seals are born on the flat sandy beaches of Heligoland Düne. It's a natural spectacle that is second to none.

I am spending three days on Heligoland to photograph the seals. I am hoping for one of those rare moments that nature photographers dream of: a birth. In the following, I will tell you about my time with the gray seals and give you lots of practical tips for your own photo trip to the seals on Heligoland Düne

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New Life among the Gray Seals

The wind has a firm grip on the Heligoland dunes. Fine sand whips across the beach, drawing bright veils across the ground. The grains of sand hit me like tiny needles and crunch between my teeth. I am glad I have my safety goggles from the hardware store, which allow me to keep my eyes open without straining them. My gaze and my camera are fixed on a large gray seal that is behaving conspicuously nervously, not far from the barrier fence. After a few minutes of sand exfoliation, my suspicion is confirmed: her abdomen reveals a bulging red amniotic sac.

The female turns awkwardly onto her side, first one way, then the other. She bends like a banana, turns in circles, and tries to push the amniotic sac further out. The surrounding seals raise their heads, unimpressed. The offspring takes its time. For about 15 minutes, it hangs halfway out in the fresh North Sea wind of 7 Beaufort, while its mother twists and turns, bends and rolls in circles. All without making a sound, less than two meters away from the mobile barrier fence that separates visitors from the wild animals. All observers keep a respectful distance and watch. Also, without making a sound. Then suddenly everything happens very quickly, and a wet, yellowish bundle lies in the sand.

The little seal pup immediately opens its eyes and is sniffed and touched by its mother. Moments of closeness, simply beautiful to watch. Meanwhile, the crows jostle in front of the placenta before it cools down and is covered with sand. A wild feeding frenzy begins. The calf looks at the world with its big black eyes, somewhat irritated. Can it already see the crow right in front of it clearly? Can it see us photographers? Its first movements seem shaky, tentative. It takes a while for the little one to find the milk teats and for its fur to dry. Now it is no longer yellowish, but shows its beautiful white lanugo fur. A piece of the fresh umbilical cord still hangs from its belly.

Growth in Record Time – From a white Ball of Fur to Germany's Largest Predator

Seal pups are born weighing around 10 to 14 kilograms. Due to the fat content of their milk, which is more than 50 percent, the pups gain up to two kilograms per day and soon develop a thick, white layer of blubber. Some mothers stay with their calves permanently, while others leave their young alone for a few hours to go fishing. When the calves are weaned after 15 to 21 days, they are on their own. About ten days after weaning, their fur changes, and the white woolly coat is replaced by a swimming coat. Then come the first attempts at swimming, and the young seal begins to hunt instinctively.

On the beach, I see young animals that are only a few days old and others that have already become little rolls of blubber. They seem extremely clumsy on land, but are already very curious. They explore with their snouts, feel their way with their highly sensitive whiskers, and turn their heads toward every new sound.

Grey seals belong to the family of dog seals. Their range extends from Norway to the East Coast of America. The animals that come to Heligoland belong to the eastern North Sea population. They are the largest predators in Germany:

• Males can weigh up to 300 kilograms. They only reach their full strength at around eight years of age.
• Females remain significantly smaller, weighing between 150 and 200 kilograms.
• Young animals weigh between 10 and 14 kilograms at birth.
• The average life expectancy of a gray seal is 35 years.
• Gray seals can reach speeds of up to 20 km/h on land and up to 40 km/h in water.
• Estimates of the survival rate in the first year of life vary greatly depending on location and conditions, ranging from less than 50% to 85%. The main causes of death are often starvation or injury.

Deutschlands wohl stürmischste Kinderstube

Heligoland Dune is barely recognizable in winter. The summer vacationers are gone, leaving behind silence, wind, and Germany's largest gray seal colony. Every year starting in November, this beach becomes the most important birthplace for the eastern North Sea population of gray seals (Halichoerus grypus).Halichoerus grypus).

What appears to be a barren place is in fact a perfectly functioning nursery:

• Strict social distancing rules and barriers separate visitors from the animals.
• A wide beach that is never completely flooded.
• Vigilant rangers keep an eye on seal pups in need of help and keep an eye on visitors.
• Waters rich in fish.

The gray seals often lie close together. Therefore, the beaches are closed to humans. It is no longer possible to walk on the beach without disturbing the seals or risking a bite. However, you can still observe the animals:

There is a raised wooden boardwalk in the dunes on the north beach. From here, you have a good view of the north beach. Some of the seals lie very close to or high up in the dunes. Sometimes they even crawl across the panoramic trail.

The southern beach is accessible up to the Düne restaurant (closed in winter) at the upper edge; the rest of the beach is separated by a sturdy metal fence. The seals are also spread out across the entire beach up to the fence. Despite the fence, it is important to keep your distance here as well, otherwise the animals will become restless or too accustomed to humans. This can become a problem in the following bathing season when the seals, accustomed to humans, get too close to bathers.

A Look back at the History of Heligoland

Heligoland and the neighboring island of Düne only acquired their current shape and size during the Nazi era. In order to develop Heligoland as a strategic naval port, both islands were to be greatly enlarged as part of the Hummerschere project. To this end, large parts of the present-day island were filled in and fortified so that their shape and size were no longer subject to the influence of the tides. This created the northeast and south harbor areas on the main island, and Düne was enlarged many times over, and the airport was built.

Gray Seals in Germany – A Success Story

Grey seals used to be mercilessly hunted in the North Sea – for their fur, their meat, and because of the mistaken belief that they were decimating fish stocks. By the beginning of the 20th century, gray seals had been almost wiped out in German waters. In addition to hunting, environmental toxins also caused their numbers to decline dramatically. It was only with strict protection under the Federal Nature Conservation Act, international agreements, and the designation of the Heligoland FFH area with the Heligoland rock base that the population began to slowly recover.

Since the first gray seal birth on Heligoland in the winter of 1996/97, there has been a steady increase in the number of births. Today, Heligoland is the most important breeding ground for gray seals in Germany—and one of the few places in Europe where you can observe the birth of these animals without endangering them. Today, around 1,000 pups are born here every year – and the trend is rising.

Total number of gray seal births (source: Verein Jordsand e.V.):

– 2024/25: over 1,000 pups
– 2023/24: 850-900 pups
– 2022/23: 700-800 pups
– 2021/22: 670 pups
– 2020/21: 652 pups

Life in the Colony – Closeness and Distance

Wind blows sand across the beach, swirling around the animals like thin veils. But the seals seem unmoved by such moments: they close their eyes and let everything wash over them. There is a clear order among the adult animals: mothers keep their distance from each other, young animals lie scattered across a wide area, and males patrol the edges. Although the colony appears dense, the animals rarely touch each other.

The most common behaviors I observe are:

• Contact sounds between mother and pup, suckling, playful physical contact between pup and mother
• Protection of the pup from other seals
• Rearing up and threatening, especially between males, but also females, who attack each other if one comes too close.
• Mock attacks, which often consist only of a low head position and open mouth
• Bloody fights between the bulls
• The approach of the bulls to the females, because mating takes place immediately after weaning the young. Most of the time, the bulls are driven away, but I was able to observe mating twice.

Mating Season in Winter

While the young animals still lie awkwardly on the beach, the mating season begins for the adults. The males wait, observe, and show their presence. They keep a close eye on when one of their females is ready to mate. However, if the males approach the female too early, they are rudely rejected.

The stately bulls vehemently defend their harem (typically five to seven females) against intruders and competitors. Violent fights are rare – most rivalries are decided by body language, vocalizations, and mutual intimidation.

After successful mating, the fertilized egg enters a dormant period of around three months. Only then does the approximately eight-month embryonic development begin. This makes it possible for the birth to take place again in winter. By then, most females have built up enough energy reserves to nurse for several weeks.

The Moment that remains

As I leave the beach in the evening, the calf whose birth I witnessed is nestled close to its mother. Its fur is no longer wet and shines white. It looks around curiously, appearing full and content. The moment when the seal pup fell from the bursting amniotic sac onto the beach and lay there as a wet, helpless bundle in the sand-filled gusts of wind is burned into my memory.

Heligoland Dune shows its roughest side in winter. And at the same time it's most tender. New life grows here, and nature tells one of its oldest stories. Quiet. Wild. And every year anew.

How to behave around Gray Seals

Gray seals are Germany's largest predators and should be treated with respect and consideration. For the successful rearing of young animals and for your own safety, please note the following:

• Check with the rangers and staff of the Jordsands e.V. association about the current accessibility of the beaches and any restrictions in place.
• You may encounter seals outside the barriers. On freely accessible areas, be sure to keep a distance of 30 meters from the animals.
• Young animals that have been influenced by too close contact with humans can sometimes make safe and carefree swimming difficult in summer. They approach bathers fearlessly.
• Do not go near bull fights, as the animals can reach speeds of around 20 km/h on land and are particularly aggressive during the mating season.
• Do not block the animals' access to the water or from the water to land. Never get between a calf and its mother.
• Severe disturbances can permanently disrupt the sensitive bond between mother and calf, which can lead to high calf mortality in the first year of life.

Photography Tips for Gray Seals on Heligoland Dune

Access to the beach:

The beaches are largely closed during the breeding season. There is an elevated panoramic path on the north beach from which you can observe the seals, and on the south beach you can walk along the beach up to a metal fence separating it from the dune restaurant.

Perspective:

Since the gray seals lie on the ground, the best pictures are taken when you lie on the ground yourself. This is only possible on the south beach, where the metal fence is located.

Focal length:

I took most of the pictures with a 200-600 mm telephoto lens. Unfortunately, the lens end was too large in diameter, so I couldn't use the metal fence as a tripod substitute. However, I was still able to take good pictures, even close to the ground. The 100-400 mm lens would have been better suited. A standard lens is definitely worthwhile for photographing the landscape and the seals in their habitat.

Best time to travel:

The birthing season lasts from November to January. When I was on Heligoland Düne at the beginning of December, around 700 pups had already been born, and there were many different age groups. The best chance of seeing a birth is at the end of November.

Best time of the day:

I couldn't detect any different activity patterns among the gray seals throughout the day, but it is said that they are most active in the morning. In addition, the morning and evening are particularly beautiful because of the beautiful light. This allows you to take beautiful backlit shots in the morning

Sand and rain:

Sand blows most near the ground, and it is almost impossible to prevent it from getting on your camera. If you like, bring a protective cover and UV filter. A brush has proven useful for brushing off sand grains at the end of the day.

Food, warming up, toilet:

Bring everything you need for food and drink. Drinking water can be refilled in the toilets in the heated exhibition/lounge area at the ferry terminal. There are also power outlets and tables for lunch breaks.

Getting to the dunes:

The first dune ferry leaves at 8 a.m. at the beginning of December, and a round trip costs €6. More information here.

Book Recommendations for Nature Lovers

Would you like to learn more about wildlife observation? Then I have three book recommendations for you. You can order the books* from Amazon by clicking on the images. If you buy a book or another article via an affiliate link, I will receive a small commission, and you will help me to continue to fill Wanderlust Motifs with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you.

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Recommendations for further Reading

Der Beitrag Nachwuchs im Winterwind – Kegelrobben auf Helgoland-Düne erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Anyone who is out and about—whether with a backpack or snowshoes, in the mountains or in the Black Forest—has a responsibility. For themselves, for others, and for what happens if something happens. The idea that “someone will help” is dangerous. The following text on outdoor first aid is aimed at anyone who ventures off the beaten track, at people who need to think and act clearly even when the rain has been pouring down for hours, when radio contact has been lost, and when things suddenly turn serious.

This text, written by Christoph Maretzek, is no ordinary outdoor first aid guide. It is the condensed experience of 45 years in the field – raw, honest, unvarnished. For everyone who goes out there. For everyone who wants to come home. Christoph is the founder of Guide Academy Europe, where I trained as a trekking and wilderness guide. As a long-time mountain infantry instructor, experienced solo and winter trekker, and carpenter, he has witnessed serious accidents and has often been able to help. Last late summer, we were back on tour together in Vindelfjäll, Sweden, and as always, health on tour, wilderness first aid, and prevention were an important part of our preparation. Rightly so, as a near-accident in the mountains in rain and stormy weather impressively demonstrated.

In cooperation with and written by Christoph Maretzek, Guide Academy Europe..

When something happens, you need to know what to do

If you want to go on a tour, whether by bike, ski, or on foot, with or without a guide, in summer or winter, in the mountains, on the water, or in the forest, there is always a lot to consider. But one question always arises, for everyone and on all occasions:

What is the most important Thing Outdoors?

The answer is quite clear: How can I ensure that I can help myself and others immediately and effectively at any time, even in serious situations? Especially when I have to wait for help to arrive... sometimes for days.

Between Theory and Reality: Outdoor First Aid Courses

Real outdoor first aid begins when you have to wait hours or days for help—and when you have to be able to act on your own.

This year's accident figures give pause for thought. Those who offer training and workshops in particular are called upon to take these figures into account and respond to them. This is because many so-called outdoor first aid courses do not actually reflect outdoor situations (further) off the beaten track, but rather first aid relatively close to paths and the rescue chain. It therefore makes sense to adapt to the current realities each year and to train and practice for precisely those areas where no one can help after an hour.

The trekking guide course in mid-July 2025 and the wilderness first aid course in Baden-Baden in May 2025, which was held for Arctic travelers, among others, once again went well and without any real emergencies. We practiced some new situations and realigned the course with developments in nature and society. This is because changing natural environments produces new dangers.

Reality instead of wishful Thinking

In reality, no YouTube video helps. No survival show. No app. What counts is what you have in your head and in your backpack—and what you can recall under stress.

To start with, a simple note: a few statements (based on many years of experience) may upset or annoy sensitive souls or those who believe that the fire department, forest rangers, and mountain rescue services are responsible for their well-being on tour (rather than themselves, first and foremost). Therefore, read on at your own risk...😊.

The lines are simply intended to make almost half a century of knowledge available to everyone outside of guide training courses and workshops. Ultimately, it is up to each individual to decide what to make of it. And whether to take advantage of offers or not. And since the writer, in his life as a long-time mountain infantry trainer/platoon leader and solo trekker, winter hiker in northern Sweden, Alaska paddler, and carpenter, has almost bitten the dust a few times, taken enough hits that could have been avoided, and experienced too many deaths along the way, there are now lines instead of bandages.

The fact is: when you go out there, you are on your own! Those who take others with them are responsible first and foremost for them and for themselves. 45 years outdoors have taught the writer that very often (far too often) there is nothing others can do for me if I cannot take care of myself during the first hour after an accident (the so-called golden hour) when I am seriously injured or ill. Then the helpers may arrive too late. It's as simple as that.

Take Responsibility for yourself

Mountain rescue is the icing on the cake...not the cake itself! Everyone either has that in their backpack or left it at home. Forests, water, and mountains are dangerous in themselves and often pose an obstacle to quick and safe access to the scene of an accident. Not thinking about this BEFORE the tour, not preparing, not practicing intensively again, and not equipping yourself with the appropriate material is like flying with unsecured wings. Only fools or people who are irresponsible towards themselves do that.

Or to put it more bluntly:

If you're not willing to prepare yourself properly, to learn and practice, to take care of yourself continuously, constantly, and comprehensively every second... what are you doing out there, assuming that someone will come to your rescue if you mess up? Everyone can answer that question for themselves.

How can you recognize experienced, good, and prudent trekkers, solo skiers, water sports enthusiasts, and mountaineers/mountain hikers? Quite simply: by the fact that they have grown old.

Attention and Respect for Nature are also First Aid

In addition to skill, knowledge, equipment, determination, and fitness, caution, foresight, and prudence are also important..

Many accidents are simply avoidable if you concentrate on what you are doing, listen to your gut feeling, and keep your eyes and ears open. This is normal for old soldiers, because it can ensure survival in difficult situations.

No one has to wait until disaster strikes; you can take precautions beforehand. So what's wrong with adopting the basic attitude of “I'm actively taking care” as a civilian and taking preventive measures for yourself? It's normal for police and firefighters, forest rangers, construction workers, and machine operators, because they are constantly exposed to danger. Unfortunately, very few people realize that when they go out there, they could end up lying there. They usually put on their backpacks without any training, have little experience, see YouTube as an educational channel, and view all the superheroes on ridiculous survival shows as reality. Perhaps these simple, honest lines will inspire you to do more (e.g., take a realistic course, get some training for yourself).

In addition, there is respect for the forces of nature, the recognition that you are responsible for yourself first and foremost, and respect for the constant danger outside: because there are no mountains without danger, no forests without danger, and no canoeing waters without danger. If you don't take care out there, the constant danger can quickly turn into an acute (and often avoidable!) threat. However, with a little luck, planning, skill, equipment, etc., you already have a good chance of success. This includes noting/making a note of places with cell phone reception along the way.

However, plans often have to be adapted quickly and frequently – failing to do so is a common cause of problems on various tours due to time pressure on vacation, overly tight planning windows without buffer days, and a simple lack of willingness to reposition oneself. In the end, nature always makes the rules. Your own condition and abilities must match what you have in mind, what you can do, and what you should avoid. Then you can come back next year and start the tour again. Ultimately, it's that simple. Because if just one thing is missing, if you hesitate too long, if you didn't take care of it beforehand, then it's often on the edge or already over the edge. And it's always just that one second.

Guide Training at the Guide Academy Europe

A Look behind the Scenes

Anyone who wants to lead others off the beaten track and away from rescue facilities must be able to help. From a standing position, still looking at the injured person, who is already silent or writhing on the ground. In all modules, training is proportionate and always surprising, even at breakfast if necessary. Because accidents don't work in shifts, there are no punch cards, and they don't announce themselves. From one moment to the next, if something goes wrong with the stove, not only can a face be changed forever, but simply the life of the whole family behind it. Rare, but always the case. The spurting bleeding because a tool has once again hit the “right” spot, or the bright shin bone that suddenly sticks out. No one has a guarantee, and therefore everyone must be able to do what is needed.

A wonderful training weekend with this year's trekking guide class in July 2025 showed that even simple exercises with unexpected situations can quickly cause you to falter. You're not a paramedic or a doctor. Damn, what was that about snake bites again? Damn it, what were the signs of shock again, and how do I distinguish the dangers of heat exhaustion from sunstroke? And so much more that suddenly becomes an issue. Often without any warning.

Practice makes you a better Rescuer

The weekend was packed with theory, focusing on details that come from a lifetime of experience out in the field and can't be found in any manual. Just like soldiers far away in the field, trekkers can suddenly find themselves in a nearly hopeless situation and have to react. As an experienced solo trekker, I've thought a few times: “That's it, I'm done.”

Sometimes with luck, sometimes with even more luck, and sometimes with unconditional quick reactions, things have gone well so far. The 12 deaths and serious injuries I have witnessed while on duty and on tours in the field have made me think. Twice, I was able to help in time. Things can often get rough out there, and sometimes you have to improvise. However, the basic rules of hygiene etc., apply there just as they do in the valley at the doctor's. But you don't always have that luxury. You don't have the professional equipment. Some of this can be compensated for with practice. But not everything. That makes the exercises all the more important!

Exercises – we started with bandaging. That sounds trivial, but the exercises (also blindfolded, behind your back, in the dark, with your weaker hand) showed that this important knowledge about proper wound care to prevent infections leading to sepsis or bleeding to death is anything but trivial! Bleeding to death is still one of the leading causes of death after serious accidents. We can do something about this, as well as the 10,000 fatal cases of sepsis resulting from an infected, possibly very small wound. But we need to know how and practice again and again. Just like paramedics. Because we are our own paramedics.

But under the following hypothetical scenario, it's a completely different story: we are with a group or alone, in cold, wet, windy weather, without a phone connection, somewhere in the Swedish mountains, at least six hours' walk from the nearest hut. Although we are on a well-travelled long-distance hiking trail, the conditions make it feel like we are on the far side of the moon! This is a completely normal situation on any hike there. No one can come to your aid quickly. It's that simple. Heavy bleeding, an abscessed tooth, an open fracture, even an infection/sepsis (unfortunately not uncommon) from a simple, “trivial” mosquito bite or a dog bite, because a hiker with a dog does not follow the leash rules. There are so many things that can happen. And as surprising as it may sound, well over 95% of all outdoor activities go well, but if an accident does occur, it can be serious, even fatal.

Starting in 2026, first aid training at Guide Academy Europe (GAE) will become more compact and remain in very small groups. The core topics will be: EH Outdoor Solo, EH Outdoor Trekking/Mountain, EH Outdoor Wilderness, EH Outdoor Compact. Special courses may also be available on request. The courses are currently in the final stages of development and description and will be ready by the beginning of the year.

An Example from the Kungsleden Long-Distance Trail

How much worse it was when I think of the Dutchman from last year who, with untreated, festering, open, and bleeding blisters, wanted to take just one day off to recover, as he said. No possibility of self-sufficiency due to lack of equipment (too heavy!!) and sitting in a small village at the end of the road in front of the Swedish fells. The next stages south would have taken him through deserted areas for days, with only chance encounters with other hikers, and very long stages between huts. Stoic, somehow disinterested, and apparently unaware of what an infection could quickly do to him – kill him. He had never been on such a hike before and had been inspired by a well-known “survival show” from Germany. Without further ado.

There was nothing left to do but intervene and talk him out of it. He finally let himself be persuaded and helped, and took the bus to the nearest hospital. I received a text message from him in late fall, thanking me. The doctor, but even more so the old nurse who examined him first, also set him straight. Intervening may have saved his life.

More on the topic of providing first aid for blisters can be found on the Guide Academy Europe website.

A Christian duty and a matter of honor. But unfortunately not for everyone. So many people are afraid to help, fearing they will be sued. Nonsense and bullshit. It's that simple. Many believe that a phone call is enough – far from it. You have to do what is reasonable. In addition, there is the applicable state law. Who cares about the local rules before departure? In Sweden, according to the official figures for 2024, first aid is provided in over 65% of cases! In our country, the figure is far below that; sad, shameful, and disgusting. Because everyone needs help at some point.

What matters on Tour

In northern Sweden, Scotland, Iceland, etc., it's not like in the Alps, where, on the one hand, the mountain rescue service makes exciting films about themselves and their work, and on the other hand, people are increasingly setting off and, like this year, dropping like flies from the mountains. Help is not always available, or quick, or even available at all. Anyone who is unfamiliar with the country's rescue services is flying completely blind. The figures are alarming. So are the figures for drownings in this country. It's the same in all areas – and there's no point in beating around the bush: no (sufficient) knowledge, too little ability to cope with stress, overconfidence, showing off, lack of experience, no (sufficient) knowledge of the weather, unprepared, poorly trained, incorrect or missing basic equipment, inability to use it under stress, no maps, no adequate first aid kit, no adequate first aid knowledge. Above all, blind trust in apps and “I have a phone.” As if it could bandage the deep leg wound after a failed axe blow, fix the dislocated shoulder, cleanly treat the open fracture, or solve one of the frequent internal medical problems.

Note: If you only have a phone, it's your own fault if something goes wrong. It's always worth taking care of things in advance: yourself, your equipment, and any conceivable emergencies. An unpleasant but unfortunately all too often (avoidable) true statement. Nobody likes to hear that. But that's the way it is. And yet help is provided. And hopefully, then it will be clear to everyone how expensive such a rescue can be. It's always worth taking care of things BEFOREHAND.

As sorry as everyone is for the dead and maimed...the mountain rescuers, who volunteer their time, struggle and all too often have to abandon their efforts because it is a fundamental principle not to put themselves at undue risk during a rescue operation. A cell phone full of pictures but with no battery, and a battery-draining “orientation app” will then finish off the cold cell phone battery in a matter of seconds, taking away the accident victim's last chance. Then, unfortunately, they will bleed to death, freeze to death, or die of shock after the fall. Unfortunately, this happens time and time again.

A well-equipped first aid kit (not just two old bandages and a plaster!), training, practice, and, if necessary, a refresher course at home before the tour could have tipped the scales in the event of an accident. The accident victim would have gained valuable time and could have easily extended his own “golden hour,” staying alive and avoiding further damage. But instead, mountain rescuers too often arrive at the scene and find, if the injured person has remained where they were able to communicate their location (if they were able to orient themselves), only a miserable corpse. Someone who knew that it would be the end if they were unlucky. And who may only be found by chance months, sometimes years later. Does it really have to be this way? No. Quite simply.

Review of a Training Weekend

Since such a weekend is short, we practiced some basic elements here; the mountain/cold-specific topics will then be taught and practiced in the fall during the mountain module. We already covered the basics in the 10-day spring course of the 2025 compact course (with three of four possible participants) and then kept the training going over the months with accident reports from the internet, which we worked through by asking questions.

Knowledge, Skills, Decision-making – an Overview of the Training Topics

Early situation recognition is often neglected. Far too often, the frightened helper rushes to the injured person too quickly without pausing for a moment; therefore, take a deep breath and look around briefly. Anyone who approaches an accident in this way can take a close look as they approach and, if necessary, gain valuable time for the injured person:

• Do I see a large pool of blood?
• Is a bone sticking out?
• Is a limb noticeably twisted?
• Are the parties involved in the accident (animals, weather, trees, tools, people, equipment, cars, etc.) clearly visible to everyone?
• How is the person behaving?
• Are helpers already at work?
• What dangers do I need to keep an eye on?
• Am I putting myself at risk?
• What details are apparent at first glance?
• What is my immediate impression of the situation?

Assessing the situation is my responsibility for my own safety. I may not even be able to help the injured person until I have ensured that it is safe for all helpers to approach, or until I have guided my group to safety. So don't rush in blindly, and don't let others rush in blindly either. It doesn't help if someone else needs to be treated at the same time... And as bad as it is, I may have to accept that I can't get the last five meters to the injured person and can only talk to them while they whimper silently in front of my eyes, scream in real pain, continue to put themselves in danger, or simply bleed to death. Or I can only throw first aid supplies to them. Nasty, but a possible reality.

The following always applies: sufficient self-protection against (too) quick rescue attempts!

Exercises that make a Difference

Other topics we cover in the training course include:

• Principles and options for actively preventing accidents. Without prevention and care, I expose myself to danger.
• The tour first aid kit – without it, you are completely exposed.
• The little booklet “First Aid in the Mountains” by experienced expedition doctor Walter Treibel, with 50 years of experience, is worth its weight in gold!
• Problems with treating multiple people – not everyone may make it.
• Problems with multiple injuries – “Treat first what kills first.”
• Splinting and immobilization with SAM splints or improvised splints – there's always something you can do!
• Principles of safe wound care. Avoiding sepsis is one of the most important issues outdoors. One of the participants from the weekend had just narrowly survived sepsis! Because sepsis can kill in a short time without quick help.
• Wound care over several days. Anyone who still has to walk or wait for help must also take proper care of any wounds.
• Treatment of objects stuck in the body – principles and special considerations far away from trails and aid stations.
• Lifting and picking up with several people.
• Working as a team – untrained and inexperienced helpers mean well. But someone has to be in charge and, if necessary, take the lead on their own initiative.
• Exercises in the dark. At night or in poor visibility, outside and exposed to the weather, it is even more difficult.
• Dealing with animal bites – climate change means you have to think twice before stepping into or reaching into any bush.
• Hypothermia – if left untreated, it kills.
• Keeping warm – injured people need their warmth.
• Get them out of the wind and out of the wet – both can be real killers.
• Binding and compression – unlike in road traffic, it is often necessary to resort to extreme measures when far off the beaten track. Because blood that is lost is gone forever. Losing more than a liter can be life-threatening – at the latest.
• Shock treatment – worsening shock can be fatal.
• The triangular bandage – an old friend and faithful helper for hikers.
• Scalding and burns – this is often the worst-case scenario.
• Muscular injuries – a society that has become comfortable or simply untrained is quite susceptible to this. This is especially true as the age of mountain hikers etc. continues to rise.
• Dental problems – the Romans said: Toothache is the little brother of death. Having to pull your own tooth is no fun (personal experience in 2009).
• Dealing with stress and worries – if you want to help, you will be stressed if you are not trained.
• Leading the group. It's always about language, appearance, and approach.
• Dealing with onlookers – without ending up in court afterwards.
• EH Solo – Help yourself, then God will help you.
• Limits of backpack capacity – Where do our possibilities end?
• Alerting – Providing important information fluently and effectively.
• Principles of decision-making – Which parameters influence me?
• Care – What can I do, what does the accident victim need?

Lesson 1: Story from the Forest Cabin

Exciting...and straight out of real life:

It's July 22, 2025, 10:25 a.m., and I'm sitting in a small cabin on a stormy, rainy day, writing instead of doing my work for the forestry office (Cleaning up the forest in this weather, alone in a remote area with no cell service???? No way!). The same applies to me: I have to be careful, because no one is coming by today, and there is no phone! Depending on the route, the way to the village is 5-7 km of forest trails. The forest restaurant above is closed today. And then, while I'm concentrating on my writing topic, the following happens to me in real life:

Next to the chair, shoes are scattered wildly across the room, and fresh vegetable soup is simmering on the spirit stove. I stand up, turn to the right, don't look down as I usually do, stumble over the shoes, stretch out, and just manage to catch myself. My arms brush past the stove with the boiling broth and hit the shelf. Five centimeters further to the right, and I would have scalded my arm and everything below my waist! Boiling hot! Jackpot in the idiot lottery! It couldn't be worse out here on my own. Because with a scalded arm (guaranteed third degree), I can't drive a car myself anymore. And why? Just one second of inattention, not clearing stuff out of the way, and breaking all the rules that I mercilessly drill into the guide trainees until they become habit. Damn! But that's only human.

Therefore: caution, foresight, prudence... even when staying in a hut! Tripping hazards may be small. Shoes left lying around in the room mean: it's your own fault.

Always take your well-stocked, refreshed, and correctly filled first aid kit with you on tour! No matter how often it has gone well in the past. One day, you will need it unexpectedly, often from one second to the next. For yourself or someone else. All it takes is one step to stumble, one fainting spell, one deep cut, one small inflammation. One blown-out stove, one fallen branch, one dog or mouse bite, etc.

Lesson learned 2: A Story from the Field

Things get tight in the next side valley, where radio waves cannot propagate due to the topography, as no masts were allowed to be built in the extensive forest area or because loud public opposition claimed that the “ugly masts on the surrounding hills would have spoiled the beautiful landscape.” After a stupid fall while jogging on a summer evening, you could end up lying there with broken bones. There is no one around, because apart from the careless runner, no one is outside with the approaching thunderstorm! The unfamiliar screamer's cries quickly turn into pitiful whimpers, 6 km away from the car, in the middle of a forest road on Sunday evening. No forestry office car, no cyclist, no hunter – they have all been smart and are sitting by the warm stove at home.

The accident victim is lying there, wearing only his thin running shorts and an even thinner jacket. A running vest with a piece of chewing gum and a small bottle of water, an almost empty cell phone with no reception, so no emergency call. All this on a steep slope, surrounded by dense forest, on a sunken path. That was it for this person. The thunderstorm soaks him, the ground cools down abruptly, the injury—an open tibia fracture with tissue and vascular injuries—bleeds from the wound and the bone, and so one thing leads to another:

• Blood loss with shock, which, if left unchecked, will prove fatal.
• Similarly, the onset and progression of hypothermia (which further reduces the blood's ability to clot!) takes full effect.
• No bandages at hand, no pressure bandage, pressing down on your own femoral artery is not feasible.

It doesn't look good at all. Only a few kilometers from Bad Reichenhall on a wide hiking trail. The poor devil doesn't know about the pressure points on the back of the knee, in the popliteal fossa. And even if he did and he managed, despite the excruciating pain, to apply pressure and slow or even stop the bleeding (very unlikely!), he would have to figure out how to bandage himself with nothing. The T-shirt is the only thing he has, but the developing hypothermia is clouding his mind, and so it doesn't occur to him to tear his running vest into strips (our teeth can do a lot!).

It's Saturday evening. Severe weather is forecast for Sunday. The accident victim was on the best path to simply perishing. In 2007, in the Berchtesgadener Land region, he was simply lucky that another reckless bird, who was running quickly to the safety of his car during a raging thunderstorm, stumbled over the accident victim, who was a soldier in the mountain troops, well-trained and immediately sprang into action. He also had bandages in his jacket (the familiar little old Bundeswehr packet) and knew what he was doing. Medically as well as on the trails. He drove his car over, picked up the injured man, and took him to the nearest hospital.

No... it wasn't the writer himself, but it could have been. In traffic, he would probably have called for help and stayed until the rescue services arrived. There, however, the helper decided to react differently. Maybe the paramedics are now shouting “Help, dangerous” – sure. But out there, away from the rescue chain, things very quickly turn out differently than under “normal conditions.”

Conclusion: If you go out, you have to know what you're doing

And so we come to the end and realize:

• If you go out, you have to know what you're doing, have what you need, and take action.
• If you need help, you have to help yourself first.
• If you have something, you're better off than someone who needs a pharmacy.
• Doing nothing is always wrong.

In summary, it can be said that ONLY those who are absolutely familiar with and observe the pillars of outdoor first aid mentioned in the text are really doing everything they can. Then they add a dose of good luck, choose reliable companions, check in, eat well, don't drink alcohol, don't take drugs, and get enough sleep. If they then thoroughly consider all of the above aspects and pause to reflect from time to time, they will be able to sit by the stove as an old codger and tell their grandchildren about their adventurous hikes or one day write and publish their tour diary.

I already have the title for my tour diary, without being really old and without having grandchildren:

“A (long) Life in Boots”

And now, I wish you all enjoyable trips, reliable companions, and a safe return home. And don't be lazy, folks. Take care and know what to do if someone suddenly sees the world from a horizontal perspective and turns pale around the nose.

Happy Trails!

Recommendations for further Reading

Want to know more about health and safety on tour? Then take a look at my articles Poisonous Animals in Germany: What you need to know and Staying healthy on a Trekking Tour: Preparation, Behavior and First Measures in the Event of Illness .

Der Beitrag Outdoor-Erste-Hilfe: Draußen hilft nur, was du kannst erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links.

Autumn in Finland's wild Taiga

Autumn begins early in eastern Finland. As early as September, the birch trees turn golden, the nights grow long, and the northern lights appear in the clear night sky. The bears prepare for their winter hibernation and eat their fill of blueberries to build up a thick layer of fat. I, on the other hand, prepare myself with my down jacket, sleeping bag, hat, and thermos for several cold nights in photo hides at four different locations in eastern Finland. Not every hide is equipped with heating. Most are simple wooden shacks or small huts, sometimes with a bed or bunk bed, or just a soft floor mat. Each one is unique in its own way, sometimes very cozy, sometimes a real pain in the neck.

Karhu-Kuusamo – Finland's northernmost Bear Photography Hide

When I arrive at the Karhu-Kuusamo meeting point, the forest is quiet. I park my car in a small space and watch a jay in the tree opposite. I look around and only when I am sure that there is no bear behind the next tree do I get out and point my camera at the raven. But it hears the two cars approaching ahead of me and takes off. It brought me luck – from now on, it would only be half an hour before I saw my first brown bear in the wild.

My first Photo Hide for viewing Bears near Kuusamo

The Karhu-Kuusamo observation hides are located about a 30-minute drive from Kuusamo and are the northernmost photo hides for bear viewing in all of Finland. The season lasts from early May to late September, and the sighting probability is 99%. The five hides are wooden huts of varying sizes overlooking a dark pool, a boggy swamp, and the forest beyond. I share a small hide with another visitor. The atmosphere is tense as we set up our cameras on the beanbags and our guide lays out treats for the bears outside, 20 to 60 meters away from the huts. It doesn't take long before I feel completely overwhelmed by the huge bear that suddenly appears at the edge of the forest. But the animals are smart; they know when the restaurant opens for them.

This first encounter with a wild brown bear in its natural habitat is a moment that stays with me for a long time. After a few minutes, the big guy disappears back into the dense forest, and I begin to settle into the photo hide. Then, almost hesitantly, a female with particularly light, shimmering blond fur appears at the edge of the forest. At her side is a cub, peeking cautiously out from behind its mother. Above them, several sea eagles sit in the treetops, waiting for their chance. Ravens circle the area, commenting on the spectacle with hoarse caws.

The Sky is wild, too

It's not just the forests that are wild in Finland – the sky is too. During my observations, I repeatedly saw white-tailed eagles circling above the clearings or sitting in the trees. The white-tailed eagle(Haliaeetus albicilla)is one of the largest birds of prey in Europe. It was once almost extinct, but thanks to consistent conservation measures, populations in Finland have recovered. Today, it can be found regularly on lakes and along the Baltic Sea coast – but it also occasionally appears inland, searching for carrion or fish.

Night in the Bear Forest

As darkness falls, our guide knocks on the door of the hut, which we have locked from the inside. For me, it's now time to move on to the largest of the observation huts, where I will spend the night. He himself will leave the area with the other guests. The thought of being alone in the middle of bear territory makes me a little nervous. I push my excitement aside and get my camera ready while there is still a little bit of light left. Just in time, because the big male bear is already coming back, looking for more pieces of fish. He comes within a few meters of the hut. I hear his footsteps in the muddy swamp, his panting, chewing, and suddenly a deep growl that sends shivers down my spine. I sit still, listen, and feel a rollercoaster of absolute fascination and goosebumps. It's a good thing the hide is so solid and sturdy.

Only when it is pitch black outside do I crawl into one of the four bunk beds. Surprisingly quickly, I fall into a deep sleep. Maybe it's the tiredness, maybe it's the security of the hide. In the morning, I leave the hut and lock the door from the outside. On the way to my car, I hum a song, hoping to scare away any bears on the way between the hut and my car.

For more information on bear watching from Finland's northernmost photo hide, visit the Karhu-Kuusamo website..

Wild Brown Bear Center – three Days with Bears and Wolverines

My journey continues south, where I have booked three days at the Wild Brown Bear Center near Vartius. A large observation hut and several small photo hides offer unobstructed views of the marsh, lake, and forest in the border region between Finland and Russia. There is even cell phone reception in the hides, and all guests are connected in a WhatsApp group. We want to use it to communicate sightings and the movements of wild animals, helping us to look in the right direction and not miss anything.

At around 4 p.m., we set off for the hides, which are about 700 meters away and designed for one to two people. There is a bunk bed, chairs, sleeping bags, and a toilet bucket. I attach my tripod head to a wooden board at the viewing slit, settle in, and wait for a bear to appear.

A Wolverine says Hello

The first evening in the hide remains quiet and without sightings. After an equally quiet night, I pack up my camera equipment and am about to leave the hide. A dark brown body darts out of the shadows and runs along the opposite shore of the lake. Just as quickly as it appeared, it disappears again. Gulo gulo, known in English as the wolverine or bear marten, is one of the rarest predators in Europe. Gulo gulo, zu Deutsch Vielfraß oder auch Bärenmarder, ist einer der am seltensten beobachteten Beutegreifer Europas.

We wait, hoping that the wolverine will reappear. Unfortunately, to no avail. At 8 a.m., the agreed time, we guests all leave our hiding places at the same time and meet in the common room for breakfast.

The next two days follow the same pattern: in the afternoon, after an early dinner, we head out to the hiding places, wait for the animals in the evening, spend the night in the hiding place, and return to base camp in the morning for breakfast. During the day, I go for walks in the area, photograph birds at the feeding station, or look through the photos from the previous evening in my room or the lounge.

An underrated Loner

While bears are the center of attention here, the wolverine often remains in the shadows. Unfairly so. With its muscular body, powerful jaws, and sharp claws, it moves effortlessly through the terrain. It is a scavenger, but also a hunter that can kill weakened reindeer, hares, or birds.

On the second day, I see the wolverine again and manage to take a photo of the nimble creature. But it is only later, quite a bit further south, at Erä-Eereo near Lieksa, that I am able to observe and photograph the wolverine at length. The night vision device I borrowed opens up a view into a dark, hidden world that is teeming with life. In addition to the wolverine, I also see wolves, a bear that immediately disappears back into the thicket, and various bird species such as ravens, jays, white-tailed eagles, and sparrowhawks. Read more in my separate article “Rendezvous in the forest – With the wolverine in Finland's wild taiga.”

The Bear comes to say Goodbye

On the last evening, I am back in another hide, looking out over a small lake surrounded by forest. The long-awaited bear arrives within the first hour. It is slightly smaller than the bears I saw in Kuusamo. It is a brief but wonderful and intense encounter, and afterwards I watch with great satisfaction as the sun sets behind the forest and darkness falls outside.

More information about bear watching can be found on the Wild Brown Bear Center website.

Wildlife Safaris Finland – A Paradise for Wildlife Photographers near Kuhmo

Paradise is the name of the third location where I am setting up a photo hide in Finland. It is one of 20 hides belonging to Wildlife Safaris Finland's Kuikka Base Camp, located in the border region with Russia. The station is run by renowned nature photographer Lassi Rautiainen, a pioneer of bear photography in Europe. Although the border crossings between Finland and Russia are currently closed, there is no border fence up here, unlike in southern Finland. Bears and wolves pass through unhindered, as they always have. Visitors who want to come to this border region must register their stay with the Finnish authorities in advance, which the tour operator does a few days before arrival.

Before heading out to the hide, I cook some pasta outside at the picnic area with my Trangia stove. Freshly fortified, I pack my thermos, sandwiches, camera equipment, and sleeping bag. At around 4 p.m., our guide drives ahead through the forest. We guests follow in our own cars to “Paradise,” a row of huts on the edge of a huge grassy plain flanked by pine, spruce, and birch forests. The landscape shimmers in shades of yellow and ochre – autumn is unmistakably on its way.

There is no light or electricity out here. Luxury here means being close to nature. This is the smallest hut I have ever stayed in. I can't stand up here, but I can lie comfortably on a soft foam mat and take photos from a worm's-eye view or sit upright on a chair. In the vestibule there is a toilet bucket, separated from the realm of the bears only by a tarpaulin. I have never been so alert when going to the toilet. Our guide explains how to use the gas stove (there is still a little bit of luxury) and then goes outside to scatter pieces of fish and dog food pellets on the meadow. With his quad bike and trailer, he takes a pig carcass further away from the huts. Attracted by the food, it doesn't take long for the first bear to appear. Shortly after him, the wolves enter the scene. Ravens settle down all around, cawing loudly.

When the Wolf shows up

Well camouflaged in the tall grass, I see my first wolf in Finland. Shortly afterwards, a second one appears, then a third. Over the course of the evening, I count seven young wolves, accompanied by their mother. The adolescents romp across the clearing, playfully wrestling and snapping at their siblings, storming through the meadow like exuberant teenagers. Two of the young wolves come very close to the huts and search for dog food pellets in the tall grass. I watch them spellbound, and every now and then, one of them looks directly into my camera. What I would give to be able to read wolves' minds. By 10 p.m., it is finally so dark that I can no longer see anything. I crawl into my sleeping bag. Outside, I hear the wilderness continuing to live.

I wake up with the first light of dawn. The wolves are already awake too; I can see them in the distance, just before the edge of the forest. Now they are all together, resting next to a tree trunk. I wish they would come back to the huts, but unfortunately, it's in vain. With a heavy heart, I pack my things and say a very grateful goodbye to “Paradise.” What I didn't know that morning was that in a few days, I would see wolves again at Erä-Eereo near Lieksa.

More information is available on the Wildlife Safaris Finland website.

Responsibility of Photographers

As a wildlife photographer, you have a great responsibility towards the animals you want to photograph. Even though the photo hides with their small viewing windows are designed to disturb the animals as little as possible, you must be aware of the possible effects. Therefore, each of the photo hides has its own rules, which must be strictly observed by every guest. Failure to comply can not only disturb or scare away the animals, but also pose a danger to life and limb. Before entering the hide, ask the operator for instructions, ask questions if anything is unclear, and familiarize yourself with the area and the behavior of the animals beforehand.

Nature photographers are automatically ambassadors for nature and conservation. High-quality images can help raise awareness of the need to protect these animals and generate positive attention for the preservation of wilderness areas. Ultimately, nature photography and wildlife tourism also bring additional income to the region and strengthen the acceptance of large predators among the population. For example, the illegal killing of wolves in Kuhmo has decreased thanks to wildlife tourism, as local people have come to understand how important living wolves are.

Proper Behavior when photographing Wildlife from a Hide in Finland

• Be quiet, ideally prepare everything for the evening/night so that everything is ready to hand. Avoid opening loud Velcro fasteners or zippers. Set your cell phone to silent mode.
• No loud crackling food packaging – ask if bringing food is allowed at all.
• Set your camera to silent mode (in some hides, photography with loud SLR cameras is even prohibited).
• Do not use flash, headlamps, or other lights outside or inside the hide.
• No additional attractants or food outside the controlled areas.
• No strong-smelling food, perfumes, or mosquito repellent.
• Wear dark clothing to avoid reflections on the viewing glass.
• Do not let camera parts hang out of the hide.
• No sudden movements.
• No dogs allowed.
• Do not leave the hide until the agreed time.

A Place that transforms

Every night in the photo hide in Finland's wild east brought unforgettable encounters and new experiences. If you want to observe animals in the wild, you have to adapt to the rhythm of nature. That means long periods of waiting, silence, and then the big moment. The observation huts are simple, cramped, and not very comfortable. But what they lack in comfort is more than made up for by the proximity to the animals and the intensity of the observations. You sit there, looking outside, camera at the ready, and then suddenly a wolf, bear, wolverine, or eagle comes into view.

The time spent in the photo hides has changed my awareness of wild animals. After the physical proximity, the personal experience leaves me with a psychological closeness to bears, wolves, wolverines, and eagles, and I carry the experiences of these days in the taiga like a little treasure in my memory. I had taken many, many pictures and was already looking forward to seeing the animals again at home on my sofa.

More Information about the Animals

Metsähallitus Parks & Wildlife Finland: https://www.largecarnivores.fi/species/wolverine.html

IUCN Red List: https://www.iucnredlist.org/species/9561/45198537

Book recommendations for Finland

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Der Beitrag Finnlands wilder Osten – Bären, Wölfe und Vielfraße aus Fotoverstecken beobachten erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Finland. It is dark. I am alone in my small photography hideout in the middle of the Finnish taiga. Only the gas stove burns quietly in the background. But then – a smacking sound breaks the nighttime silence. It is quite close. I get up and quietly switch on the night vision device that is tucked into one of the window slits. A wolverine. Less than five meters away, a massive, muscular, thick-furred fur, individual raindrops glistening on the tips of its hair. Its powerful teeth tug at a piece of meat that it holds with one paw. It looks up briefly, its eyes white in the night vision device, staring at me. Goosebumps run down my spine. Then it continues eating. Shortly afterward, the chattering of a family of mallards fills the darkness.

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Autumn in the wild Taiga

I am traveling through the Finnish taiga, near Lieksa in the east of the country. It is autumn, the time of ruska, when birch trees glow golden and the moors shine in all shades of red. The nights are already quite cold, and there are no more mosquitoes. Mushrooms are sprouting, lingonberries and blueberries are ripe, and end up in my cereal every morning. Today, my path takes me along gravel roads deep into the dense forest to the base camp of Eero Kortelainen, alias Erä-Eero. Keljänpuro Lodge is an old logger's cabin from the 1950s that was renovated by Eero himself. Eero initially offered various outdoor activities here, and since 2005 he has also been offering wildlife viewing. Over the years, Erä-Eero has become known as the world's best place to observe wolverines, a shy and rare animal that is difficult to observe in the wild. There are observation huts and photo hides at various locations, where I have settled in for the next two nights.

Welcome to Erä-Eraeo

I am warmly welcomed with steaming coffee. Keljänpuro Lodge is rustic and cozy, and the animal pictures on the walls make me want to set off on a wildlife viewing trip right away. But first, Sini gives me a briefing. I learn more about the hides, the rules to follow there, and how my evening and the next morning will unfold. Then I borrow a pair of night vision goggles and pack my snack box and thermos flask into my car. Eero and Sini drive ahead, and I follow in my own car. After about six kilometers, we pass a barrier and park our cars in front of a small wooden hut at Uuronlampi, a beautiful moorland lake surrounded by high hills.

I climb out, excited. The wooden hut is a luxurious observation hut with large windows, comfortable armchairs, and a stove. From here, you can look down a slope to a meadow, behind which lies a small lake. To the right are three small photo hides, and to the left of the meadow is the forest. As I am the only guest, I have free choice and select the rear photo hide with a view of the lake and meadow. While Eero and Sini lay out food to attract the animals, I settle into my hide. The cameras are quickly put in position, and the bed and two chairs are covered with all sorts of stuff. It takes a while to get everything in the right place for the night, so that I can find it even in the dark. Because at night, the lights stay off. Otherwise, I'll scare away the wild animals. I turn on the small gas stove and inspect the toilet bucket behind the curtain. Everything you need is there.

Encounters in the Dark

No sooner have Eero and Sini disappeared in their car than calm returns. Only ravens and jays can be heard, their cawing echoing across the lake. After a while, a dark shadow flits across the scene. The wolverine. Broad-built, crouched low, with flowing, powerful movements. The white-tailed eagle watches everything from a safe distance from the top of a pine tree. I hadn't expected it to appear so quickly and enjoy watching it through my camera.

At dusk, three young wolves appear at the edge of the forest. Curious, but cautious, and with their tails tucked between their legs. They watch the wolverine, but remain at a safe distance. The wolverine is unimpressed by the wolves and continues to eat. The wolves retreat.

Later, when night has fallen over the forest, the night vision device reveals a new world: animals with white, ghostly eyes roam the darkness. I can watch the three wolves for a long time. Even without the wolverine, they are very cautious. They probably know who is coming: two large, white eyes are getting closer and closer out of the dark forest – a bear! The wolves run away, and the bear also disappears silently into the thicket. Around midnight, I turn off the stove and go to sleep.

Dawn and Bear Tracks

In the morning, the wolverine is sitting in front of the hut again, searching for the remains of the evening. I pour myself some coffee—lukewarm, but better than nothing. After the wolverine has retreated into the dense forest, I pack up and walk up the slope to my car. I sing a song quietly so that no animals in the vicinity are frightened by my sudden appearance. Only now do I notice the huge pile of bear droppings on the road. I hurry to my car and drive back to the log cabin.

A typical Finnish breakfast awaits me at base: coffee, juice, porridge with fresh cloudberries, eggs, and Karjalanpiirakka , which are Karelian pies filled with rice pudding. Delicious! I recount my observations and am still quite excited. While my batteries are charging at the solar-powered charging station, I am already looking forward to my second night of observation.

Species Portrait: The Wolverine – Gulo gulo, the “Bear Marten”

While bears and wolves take center stage in eastern Finland, the wolverine usually remains in the shadows. But Gulo gulo, the “bear marten,” is a fascinating loner. It is the largest member of the marten family and one of the rarest predators in Europe. Its stocky, muscular body, broad skull, and thick, oily fur make it perfect for life in the snow and cold. Adult males can weigh up to 32 kilograms, with males significantly heavier than females. Despite its size, the wolverine is a skilled climber and a tireless wanderer that can cover long distances. Its diet consists of carrion, small mammals, birds, and occasionally reindeer. In winter in particular, it moves skillfully across the snow, making many other animals easy prey. It stores food, which it hides under snow or moss. This may be why it is also known as the glutton, greedy stomach, or gluttonous throat.

Wolverine Population in Finland

The Finnish wolverine population numbers around 400 individuals and has spread further south from its traditional range in eastern and northern Finland. The wolverine has been strictly protected in Finland since 1982. Thanks to this consistent protection and scientific monitoring, the population has slowly stabilized. Compared to the early 1990s, the wolverine population has increased about tenfold. Monitoring is carried out using camera traps, DNA samples from hair and feces, and reports from local wildlife observers. Nevertheless, the population remains fragile: the animals need huge territories of up to 730 square kilometers in largely unbroken landscapes, which have become rare in Europe.

Myths and Legends

In the traditional worldview of the Sami, nature is not merely a backdrop, but is animated: animals, stones, rivers, and mountains possess their own “personhood.” This animistic belief, in which every living thing has spiritual significance, continues to shape Sami culture to this day.

Der Vielfraß – auf Nordsamisch gearpmát The wolverine – called gearpát in Northern Sami – occupies a special place in this belief system. Although it appears less frequently in traditional stories than, for example, the bear (guovža) or the raven (ráibár), in many regions of Lapland it is considered an animal to be treated with respect and caution. In older traditions, its name was sometimes paraphrased or avoided because it was believed that saying it aloud could bring bad luck – a taboo that also existed for other powerful wild animals.guovža) oder der Rabe (ráibár), gilt er in vielen Regionen Lapplands als ein Tier, das man mit Respekt und Vorsicht behandelt. In älteren Überlieferungen wurde sein Name teils umschrieben oder vermieden, da man glaubte, das Aussprechen könne Unglück bringen – ein Tabu, das auch bei anderen mächtigen Wildtieren bestand.

In northern Scandinavian folklore, the wolverine is considered the epitome of endurance, cunning, and independence. It represents a force that cannot be tamed – a creature that finds food even in the depths of winter and defies even stronger animals. In stories from Lapland and northern Norway, it is described as a tireless wanderer that knows no fixed boundaries and survives in the wilderness where others fail.

Conflicts with Reindeer Herding

Despite its small overall population, the wolverine is the most significant cause of damage to reindeer in Fell Lapland, especially since there is a strict ban on hunting wolverines. On the other hand, the forest wolverine has spread outside the reindeer herding area without harming or disturbing humans.

These facts are taken into account in the wolverine population management plan, which divides the distribution area into three regions: the northern and eastern reindeer herding area, the rest of the reindeer herding area, and the forest area of Finland. The key measures set out in the management plan relate to strengthening the wolverine population outside the reindeer herding area, reducing the damage caused by wolverines to reindeer, and improving methods for monitoring the wolverine population. The connection between the wolverine populations and those in Scandinavia and Russia should also be maintained.

Nevertheless, the majority of reindeer herders support the presence of large predators in reindeer herding areas, provided that the damage they cause is compensated and predator populations are controlled. However, in order to receive this compensation, the killed reindeer must first be found. To this end, the reindeer are fitted with tracking collars that switch on when the animal stops moving, enabling the herders to locate the carcasses. To prevent damage caused by large predators, some reindeer herders have also started fencing in their reindeer during the winter months.

Back in the Forest with the Wolverine

I saw the wolverine again during my second stay in the observation hut. The wolves and ravens were also back. That evening, I watched the animals around my hut a little longer. I was so glad I was able to borrow the night vision goggles. Otherwise, I would have had no idea what was going on around me. The next morning, in daylight, the scene is completely different, another world. Once again, I sing a quiet song as I leave the scene of last night. At the top of the slope, I look back again, wondering if there might be someone else there who wants to say goodbye.

More Information about the Animals

Metsähallitus Parks & Wildlife Finland: https://www.largecarnivores.fi/species/wolverine.html

IUCN Red List: https://www.iucnredlist.org/species/9561/45198537

Book recommendations for Finland

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

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Der Beitrag Rendezvous im Wald – Bei dem Vielfraß in Finnlands wilder Taiga erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Germany. Between the Baltic Sea and the Bodden lies the Darß – a peninsula that seems tailor-made for nature observation. When the leaves change color in autumn and fog rolls over the meadows, a spectacle begins that fascinates visitors every year: the deer rut. The bellowing of the red deer echoes through the dune forests and across the wide clearings as the mighty animals compete for the does.

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An Autumn Morning on the Darß

It is still cool when I arrive at the beach shortly after six in the morning. The sun is already announcing its arrival over the sea with bright orange colors, and seagulls and crows are searching for their breakfast among the washed-up seaweed. I hurry past them. For me, coffee from my thermos and a roll from yesterday will have to wait until I reach the former emergency harbor of Darßer Ort. The harbor facilities here have since been dismantled, and the long wooden pier is said to be one of the best places on the Darß to photograph deer.

Arriving at the observation platform, I join the other early risers with my camera tripod. The coffee will have to wait. First, I scan the area. Are there any deer to be seen yet? All I can hear is the roar of the sea, blown directly into my ears by the strong east wind. After a few minutes, I see antlers peeking out of the grass through my camera's viewfinder, then the head, shoulders, and torso of a stately deer. It bellows, but I still only hear the wind and the surf of the sea. What a beautiful start to the day. I pour coffee into my mug and unwrap my sandwich.

Moments like these make the Fischland-Darß-Zingst peninsula unique in September. Here, where the forest, Bodden lagoon, and Baltic Sea meet, the deer rut is a beautiful natural phenomenon that can be experienced firsthand. The Darß forest and the dunes at Darßer Ort are one of the few landscapes in Germany where you can experience the animals in the wild so close up – not hidden in dark forests, but right on the coast.

The former Darßer Ort Emergency Harbor

In 1962, a military harbor was built in the beach lake located here. Four years after the national park was founded, the military harbor became the Darßer Ort Emergency Harbor in 1994 and served as a shelter for recreational boats and smaller ships. However, the offshore coastline continued to grow, and the dredging of the shipping channel led to conflicts with the protected area. Eventually, the port facilities were dismantled and left to nature in 2024. Only the access road to the beach lake remains, now leading to a slightly elevated wooden walkway with an excellent view of the deer on the opposite shore.

The Landscape – Forests, Dunes, Water

Formation of the Peninsula

The Fischland-Darß-Zingst peninsula is a young piece of land, formed after the end of the Weichselian glaciation approximately 12,000 years ago by sediment deposits, currents, and storm surges. Where individual islands once lay, wind and water pushed sand together to form headlands. In the 14th century, rivalries with Rostock and Stralsund led to the closure of inlets between the islands, turning Fischland and Darß into a peninsula. During the Baltic Sea storm surge in 1872, the Prerow stream silted up and the island of Zingst also became part of the peninsula in 1874 when the stream was finally filled in. Today, the Darß juts out into the Baltic Sea like a hook, forming a 45-kilometer-long wall between the Baltic Sea and the Bodden waters. At its westernmost end lies Darßer Ort, a headland that continues to be shaped by the sea year after year.

Visitors to the Darß peninsula experience a diversity that is rare in Germany. Coastal forests, windswept dunes, wide beaches, and quiet lagoon shores alternate within a small area. The Darß forest itself covers around 5,800 hectares. At first glance, its mixture of old pine, beech, and English oak trees looks like an ordinary coastal forest. But geological processes have shaped it: shifting dunes cover the forest floor, and ancient storm surges have left behind hollows and depressions where moors have formed.

On the Darßer Ort circular Hiking Trail

After a while, the crowds at the observation platform at the emergency harbor thin out. The deer have also moved on. I pack up and continue on to the entrance of the Darßer Ort circular hiking trail. The six-kilometer trail leads over boardwalks, beaches, and forest paths, through a mosaic of forest, reeds, dunes, the Baltic Sea, and beach lakes. Three more viewing platforms invite visitors to observe deer and birds. I move away from the sea, the surf becomes quieter, and the east wind blows a deep, throaty sound into my ears. The deer are bellowing.

Darßer Ort Lighthouse with the Natureum

Der Rundwanderweg bringt mich bis zum Darßer Ort mit dem 1848 erbauten Leuchtturm und dem Natureum The circular hiking trail takes me to Darßer Ort with its lighthouse, built in 1848, and the

Wind-swept Trees on the West Beach

On the second day, right after watching the deer, I hop on my bike and head to West Beach. The middle path takes me to the bike parking lot behind the dunes. There are only two bikes here, and it's so early in the morning that there's no one else on the beach. I look at the so-called wind-swept trees on the dunes, tall pines whose crowns have been bent to one side toward the land by the constant coastal wind. After a second breakfast on the beach, I take the time to get a little creative with the prism I brought with me.

History in the Shade of the Trees and the Sea Breeze

As early as the Middle Ages, fishermen and farmers used the Darß Forest, driving cattle into it and fetching wood for boats and houses. Numerous beech trees, some of them widely spaced and bizarrely grown, remain from this period when the forest was used as pasture. The Darß Forest was particularly exploited by Danish and French occupiers in the early 18th and 19th centuries. The Danes removed all the old yew trees from the forest to use for interior paneling in Rosenborg and Amalienborg palaces. The heathland left behind after the clearing was reforested by Prussian foresters with fast-growing coniferous species.

In the GDR, Darß became a vacation destination for privileged workers and party officials. The town of Prerow was known as the “Mallorca of the East.” During the high season, the beach campground alone hosted up to 10,000 guests. Today, the campground is operated by Ahoi Camp and is set to be expanded. The opportunity to camp right here in the dunes is something very special and is based on special rights of use and agreements that have been made over time with the state of Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania and the MV Foundation for the Environment and Nature Conservation. Guests are encouraged to always use the existing paths when going to the beach or through the camp and not to walk cross-country through the dunes.

TRAVEL TIP:
If you're still looking for accommodation that really brings you closer to nature, you'll find it at AlohaCamp.
Whether you're exploring the Darß peninsula or the Baltic Sea coast, spending a few days in the Alps, or planning your next stay by a quiet lake, AlohaCamp has special places all over Germany where you can experience nature at its most beautiful.

Vorpommern Bodden Landscape National Park

Since 1990, the region has been part of the Vorpommern Bodden Landscape National Park, which, at 786 km², is the largest national park on the German Baltic Sea coast. At its heart are the Darß Forest and the west coast, where no dykes slow down the dynamics of nature. Here, dunes are allowed to wander, forests plunge into the sea, and beaches disappear. “Let nature be nature” is the motto – and this is exactly what the deer benefit from. The forest offers them cover, the wide Bodden meadows provide food, and the dunes offer peace and quiet.

An important goal of the national park is to protect large mammals such as red deer, which live undisturbed in the extensive forest and dune areas. But the Vorpommersche Boddenlandschaft National Park protects more than just red deer. Over 1,300 plant species and more than 160 breeding bird species have been documented here. In addition to deer, wild boars, foxes, badgers, and, more recently, wolves also live in the region. White-tailed eagles regularly circle above the Bodden, and sanderlings and oystercatchers rest on the beaches. The annual crane migration is particularly impressive: up to 70,000 birds rest between Zingst and Darß in the fall.

The best way to get around is on foot or by bike. However, bikes must be parked at one of the bike parking areas before the circular trail, as they are not allowed here. Horse-drawn carriages run from Prerow to the lighthouse at Darßer Ort, and the Darß Bahn takes hikers to just before the start of the Darßer Ort circular trail near the former emergency harbor.

Invasion of the Jays

It's autumn, the birds are gathering and migrating to their wintering grounds. So I'm not surprised when I see one or two larger flocks. But a photo to identify the species leaves me amazed: jays in large flocks. They fly over me again and again, and I stand there with my mouth open. I have truly never seen anything like this before. On the Nabu website, I quickly learn that this invasion of jays is often associated with high breeding success in their native areas of Scandinavia and subsequent food shortages. These migratory movements can lead far into Central Europe. Most jays migrate back to their breeding grounds the following year.

The Deer – Kings of the Darß Forest

Why do so many deer live here? The answer lies in a combination of protective measures, landscape, and history. As early as the 19th century, the Darß was a popular hunting ground. Grand dukes and later Nazi officials organized driven hunts in the forest. In the GDR, parts of the Darß were declared a state hunting ground, where high-ranking politicians went trophy hunting. After 1990, the situation changed: with the establishment of the national park, traditional hunting was largely abandoned. The red deer were able to reproduce more freely without being thinned out by hunting. Today, several hundred animals live in the national park, and the population is considered stable.

The rutting season in September and October is particularly impressive. During the rut, the deer migrate to the coast and the dunes—an unusual spectacle, as we usually associate the calls of deer with deep forests or remote woodlands. The males butt their antlers against each other, scrape their hooves, and exude their typical scent to impress the females. The bellowing is not only a way of marking their territory, but also a signal to rivals: whoever bellows louder, longer, and deeper demonstrates strength.

There are various ways to experience the deer rut on the Darß.

1. On your own. The best places to do this are the designated observation platforms at the former emergency harbor and along the Darßer Ort circular hiking trail.
2. Among the guided tours, the so-called “deer concerts” are the best known, offered by the National Park Authority and local nature guides.
3. Photo excursions and workshops are also popular with photographers, for example, at the Zingst Photo School..

Myths and Legends

When I want to get to know a new region, I always enjoy researching local myths and legends. I found two for Darß that beautifully reflect the deep connection between the coastal inhabitants and their landscape.

Eine der bekanntesten Erzählungen spricht von den „Hirschgeistern“, die in stürmischen Nächten am Strand erscheinen sollen. Fischer berichteten, sie hätten große, schattenhafte Gestalten gesehen – Hirsche mit leuchtenden Augen und dampfendem Atem, die aus der Brandung aufgetaucht seien. Diese Geister seien keine Bedrohung, sondern Wächter des Waldes, die den Menschen eine Warnung überbrachten: Wer sich in solchen Nächten leichtsinnig aufs Meer wagte, den erwartete Unheil. Manche alten Seefahrer schworen, sie hätten ihr Leben nur dem Erscheinen eines solchen Geist-Hirsches zu verdanken, denn  er habe sie durch ein unerklärliches Gefühl zurück an Land gedrängt.

Other legends surround the sunken villages along the coast. During heavy storms, the ringing of bells can be heard from the waves—bells that once belonged to churches that have long since been swallowed by the sea. One often-told example is the village of Vineta, which, according to folklore, sank not far from here. Its inhabitants are said to have incurred the wrath of the sea through greed and arrogance. Today, some locals believe that the roar of the waves against the groynes sometimes actually sounds like the muffled ringing of bells.

Ending the Evening with Deer

It's my last evening on the Darß peninsula. I find it difficult to choose between my two favorite observation platforms. In the end, I decide on the jetty at the former emergency harbor. This is where my deer observations began with my morning coffee. I wrap myself up and pull my scarf a little tighter around my neck. Standing still in the wind is tough, and the deer are taking their time today. But my patience is rewarded in the end, and the soft evening light shows the stag and his ladies from a particularly beautiful side.

Book Recommendations for Nature Lovers

Want to learn more about nature? Then I have three book recommendations for you. You can order the books* from Amazon by clicking on the images. If you purchase a book or other item via an affiliate link, I will receive a small commission and you will help me to continue filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. This does not make the product any more expensive for you.

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

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Recommendations for further Reading

Do you want to go birdwatching right away? Then check out my article about Birdwatching in the Pond Landscape Linum and about Neuwerk Island - Birdwatching in the Hamburg Wadden Sea .

Der Beitrag Zwischen Hirschen und Meer – der Darß zur Brunftzeit erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Norway. Anyone traveling in the far north of Norway will quickly encounter the terms “Arctic” and “wild.” But some places fill these words with a very special meaning. One of these places is Hornøya—a small, uninhabited island east of Vardø, Norway's easternmost town, just a few kilometers from the Russian mainland. In spring, the barren rock awakens from its winter slumber when hundreds of thousands of seabirds return from their winter quarters to breed on the steep cliffs. I haven't seen many places like it and can highly recommend a visit. Here you can read about what to expect on the bird island of Hornøya, one of the best places for bird photography in Norway, and get lots of practical tips.

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Hornøya/Reinøya – Bird Cliffs in the Barents Sea

Even as you approach by boat, you can hear the screeching of the bird colonies. Kittiwakes circle above the waves, while puffins with orange feet and colorful beaks land on the rocky outcrops. It is one of Norway's densest seabird colonies and a natural spectacle that leaves you speechless with amazement. As soon as I leave the boat, I am overwhelmed by the sheer number of birds on the rocks and in the air above me. It takes me a while to compose myself and take my first steps on the visitor trail.

Even as you approach by boat, you can hear the screeching of the bird colonies. Kittiwakes circle above the waves, while puffins with orange feet and colorful beaks land on the rocky outcrops. It is one of Norway's densest seabird colonies and a natural spectacle that leaves you speechless with amazement. As soon as I leave the boat, I am overwhelmed by the sheer number of birds on the rocks and in the air above me. It takes me a while to compose myself and take my first steps on the visitor trail.

History of the Islands Hornøya/Reinøya

Hornøya and Reinøya look back on a long history of use. As early as the Middle Ages, the islands served as an important source of food for the inhabitants of Vardø: eggs and seabirds were collected from the steep cliffs, and their feathers and down were used as commodities. This form of use continued for centuries and was of great importance for supplying the population in the barren Arctic. At the same time, the islands served as landmarks for fishing and shipping in the Barents Sea and, as Norway's easternmost points, also marked a strategically important position near the Russian border. With the decline of traditional use and growing awareness of the value of undisturbed breeding colonies, attitudes toward the islands began to change in the 20th century. In 1983, Hornøya and Reinøya were finally declared a nature reserve in order to permanently secure the significant seabird populations and protect the sensitive ecosystem from disturbance.

Geology and Climate

The islands of Hornøya and Reinøya consist mainly of sedimentary rocks, primarily slate and sandstone, which were deposited during the Devonian period around 400 million years ago. Weathering and erosion have created striking cliffs that rise 20 to 30 meters high on the western sides and provide ideal breeding grounds for seabirds. The rock layers are part of the geological structures of the Varanger Peninsula area and document the geological development of Finnmark. The climate of the islands is strongly influenced by their location in the Barents Sea: it is a subarctic maritime climate with long, cold winters and short, cool summers. Despite the high latitude, the influence of the North Atlantic Current prevents the sea from freezing permanently. The islands are often exposed to strong winds, fog, and rapid weather changes, which limit the vegetation to a few salt- and cold-resistant species such as mosses, lichens, and low herbs. The climatic conditions and barren soils explain why the islands are almost treeless and the habitats are largely characterized by rocks and sparse tundra vegetation.

The Bird Eldorado on Hornøya/Reinøya

The islands of Hornøya and Reinøya are home to one of Norway's largest and most species-rich seabird colonies. Every spring and summer, more than 50,000 breeding pairs return to use the steep cliffs, rocky ledges, and burrows as nesting sites. Particularly numerous are kittiwakes, with over 25,000 pairs, guillemots, with around 15,000 pairs, and around 11,000 to 16,000 puffins, which dig their breeding burrows in the grass and soil layers of the island. In addition, black guillemots, razorbills, thick-billed murres, and fulmars are also permanent members of the colony. Cormorants, cormorants, and various species of gulls, such as herring gulls and great black-backed gulls, occupy the rocks and coastal areas. The enormous diversity and density of birds make Hornøya and Reinøya one of the most important breeding grounds in the Barents Sea and an internationally significant bird sanctuary.

The longer I observe the colony, the more fascinating the birds' survival strategies seem to me. The guillemots lay their eggs directly on bare rock, pear-shaped so that they don't roll away. Puffins use their powerful beaks to dig breeding burrows in the ground – perfect nurseries protected from wind and cold. Every little behavior here has a purpose. Nothing is random; everything serves the cause of survival in this harsh world. Life here is a race against time: within a few months, the birds must raise their young before the autumn storms sweep across the Barents Sea.

The Puffins on Hornøya 

Clown among Seabirds

Puffins (Fratercula arctica) are among the best-known and most charismatic seabirds of the north. With their brightly colored beaks, expressive eyes, and waddling gait, they resemble small, winged clowns.

Puffins spend most of their lives on the open sea and only return to the coast during the breeding season. Their plumage is water-repellent, and their bodies are streamlined – perfect for diving. In fact, puffins can dive up to 60 meters deep to hunt fish. Their wings, which appear rather clumsy in the air, serve as powerful oars underwater. The shape of their beaks is also functional: thanks to special barbs, they can carry several fish at once. This is a clear advantage when raising their young, as small sand eels are their preferred prey.

The puffin population on Hornøya is estimated at around 5,000 to 7,000 breeding pairs. However, there have been fluctuations in the number of breeding birds in recent decades, as various environmental factors influence the population. While the island remains an important breeding ground, puffins are under severe pressure in other parts of Europe, and some colonies have already shrunk considerably.

The changing Seasons and Photographic Highlights

The puffins return to Hornøya in spring, usually in March or April, to occupy their breeding grounds. March is a particularly exciting time for photographers, when the first males arrive on the island, which is still covered in snow. They know exactly where their breeding burrows are hidden under the snow and defend them vehemently against competitors. The females follow the males ashore and search for their mates, who are already waiting faithfully for them. Puffins are monogamous and stay together for life.

In summer, when the chicks have hatched, there is a lot of activity on the island. The parents tirelessly bring fish, and impressive aerial photographs can be taken. The moment when a puffin lands with a beak full of small sand eels is a popular motif among photographers.

In late summer, the puffins leave the island. The young birds leave their nests and embark on their first big journey to the open sea. The adult birds then gradually lose their bright colors, marking the end of the annual cycle.

Threats and Protective Measures

Despite their large population numbers, puffins face numerous challenges. One of the greatest threats is the decline in their food sources. Climate change is altering ocean currents and affecting the populations of small fish such as sand eels, which are essential for puffins. In some areas, food shortages and low chick survival rates are a serious problem.

Other human influences are also affecting populations. Overfishing, pollution, and disturbances from tourism can have a negative impact on breeding colonies. In some regions, puffins are also victims of bycatch in fishing nets, which further reduces their populations.

Various protective measures have been put in place to counteract these threats. In many breeding areas, including Hornøya, protected areas have been established where access is strictly regulated. In addition, nature conservation organizations are working to reduce bycatch and promote sustainable fishing practices. Monitoring programs also help to observe populations over the long term and adjust necessary protective measures.

A Place you want to see again

As our boat sets sail back to Vardø in the late afternoon, the bird colony is just as noisy as it was in the morning. I look back at the dark cliffs, the small white lighthouse, and the clouds gathering over the Barents Sea. I already know that I will definitely come back here soon. Preferably, when there is still snow on the island and the first puffins are fighting for the best nesting caves.

Book Recommendations for Birdwatchers

You can order the books via the links on Amazon. If you purchase a product via an affiliate link, I will receive a small commission, and you will help me to continue filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you.

Photo Tips for Hornøya

Light & Season

• In spring (March/April), the light is often clear and high-contrast—perfect for photographing puffins in the snow.
• In summer, the days are long and almost endlessly bright. If you stay overnight in the lighthouse on the island, you can take advantage of the soft light in the morning and evening.

Equipment

• Telephoto lens for detailed shots of individual birds.
• Wide-angle lens to capture the vast colonies and cliffs.
• Weather protection for your camera equipment and yourself. The paths were extremely muddy, so rubber boots are a good idea.

Behavior & Respect

• The island may only be accessed along the marked/fenced paths. Never stray from the paths – any disturbance can endanger a nest.
• Patience is key: the birds often come very close on their own.

Practical Travel Information

Getting there

• Flight: The nearest city is Vardø, accessible via the small airport Vardø Svartnes (via Tromsø or Kirkenes).
• Ship: Alternatively, the Hurtigruten postal ship line calls at Vardø daily.
• Car: Traveling by car is worthwhile, as there is a National Scenic Route along the shore of the Varanger Fjord with many interesting stops along the way. Read more about this in my article Varanger Fjord: witches, street art, wildlife on the National Scenic Route.
• To the island: During the season (usually March to August), a small boat runs several times a day from Vardø to Hornøya. The crossing takes about 10 minutes. Tickets are available at the tourist information office at the harbor. More information is available here.

Accommodation

• There are several small hotels and guesthouses in Vardø.
• On Hornøya, it is possible to stay overnight in the lighthouse .

Travel Season

• March to August: This is when the bird paradise comes alive. The puffins return in March, and the colonies are at their densest in July.

Other Activities in the Region

• Vardø: Norway's easternmost town offers exciting history – here you will find, for example, the memorial to the victims of the witch trials (Steilneset Memorial), various museums, and Vardøhus Fortress, a star-shaped fortification from the 18th century. In the evening, it is worth visiting Nordpol Kro, where Nansen used to drink his beer.
• A particularly scenic drive to the old fishing village of Hamningberg with good chances of seeing reindeer.
• Bird watching: The neighboring islands and along the coast of Varanger also offer excellent bird watching opportunities with chances to see rare Arctic bird species. There are numerous observation huts.
• Northern Lights: From September to March, there are chances to see the Northern Lights.

Book recommendations for Norway

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

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Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love the north as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about my Husky Guide Training – Two Months with Hetta Huskies in Finland or about Trekking on the Laugavegur in Iceland.

Der Beitrag Vogelfotografie Hornøya – Guide zu der Vogelinsel im arktischen Norwegen erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Germany. The cries of the birds echo across the Red Cliff like a wild concert. Below, the North Sea rages, while above, white silhouettes circle in the wind. I am standing on the highlands of Heligoland, Germany's only offshore island, looking out at the famous Lummenfelsen rock while northern gannets circle above me. Right next to me, just a few inches from the barrier, the large white birds sit on their nests. It is the end of May. While some gannets still cradle and warm their single egg with their large feet, other breeding pairs already have chicks in their nests. Some are tiny, others are already so big that the nest is getting crowded.

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The Kings of the Cliffs: Northern Gannets

They are impossible to miss: the majestic northern gannets (Morus bassanus, sailing over the sea with a wingspan of almost two meters. Their snow-white bodies, black wing tips, and yellowish heads make them striking creatures. Heligoland is the only place in Germany where these large seabirds breed – and only since 1991. There are now over 1,500 breeding pairs.

Northern gannets do not reach sexual maturity until they are about five years old. Once they have mated, they remain together for life. They also return to the same nesting site year after year and continue to expand it. This results in impressive nests that can weigh more than 50 kilograms over the years, with a high proportion of non-biodegradable plastic.

Northern gannets form strong pair bonds. Every time they return to the nest, the partners greet each other affectionately: they rub their beaks together and preen each other's feathers – a touching sight that offers great photo opportunities.

Tips for Nature Observers and Photographers

All seabird species that nest on the cliffs come to the island only to breed and raise their chicks. They spend most of their lives on the open sea. The best time to observe the seabirds breeding is between May and July. Mid-June offers a very special highlight: the “loon dive.” This is when the young guillemots, which are not yet able to fly, jump off the cliffs into the water. The Jordsand Association offers special guided tours at this time of year.

The “guillemot rock” can be visited via the developed cliff-edge path. Binoculars and a telephoto lens are useful for seeing the details of the more distant nests of the guillemots and razorbills. The gannet nests extend right up to the fence at the edge of the path, where you can observe the birds at close range. Photographers can actually use a wide-angle lens here and experiment with new perspectives.

As always with wildlife photography, it pays to bring time and patience. This is the only way to recognize the different behaviors of the animals and have the opportunity to experience them at different times of the day or in different weather conditions. For example, the colony behaves very differently in windy conditions than in stagnant heat. They are much more active in windy conditions, while in hot weather, they hold their open beaks up, pant, and no longer warm their chicks. Then you can see chicks of all sizes. The wind direction also plays a role in photo opportunities, because the gannets always land into the wind. When the wind is blowing onshore, they stand above the observation platforms for quite a while and can be photographed very well in flight. But be careful, you can quickly get white spots on your clothes.

What's more, if you have plenty of time and space on your memory card, Lummenfelsen on Heligoland offers great opportunities for creative photography or simply trying something new:

• High-key shots during the glaring midday light
• Low-key shots and backlit shots
• Detailed images of feathers, eyes, claws
• Multiple exposures
• Empty space
• Photographing through grass or bushes or partially covering the lens with something (flowers, feathers, prisms)

Bring enough drinks and something to eat. It's a good 800 meters to the nearest restaurant or Edeka supermarket, and also to the nearest restroom. Don't forget sunscreen and wind protection, because there is no shade and nowhere to take shelter on the cliff-edge path. Only in the neighboring meadow can you find some wind protection in the hollows of the terrain.

Here are a few of my favorite pictures:

Plastic Waste in the Seabird Colony

Helgoland is unique. Located 60 kilometers from the mainland, the island lies in the middle of the fish-rich currents of the German Bight—a hotspot for marine biodiversity. Here, seabirds find food in the form of shoals of fish and crustaceans. The red sandstone cliffs offer them a safe breeding ground, free from land predators. It is precisely because Helgoland is so isolated that Germany's only seabird colony has been able to thrive here.

Despite the beauty of the Lummenfelsen, Helgoland also has a tragic side. The northern gannets build their nests from natural materials such as algae, seaweed, and tufts of grass – but unfortunately also from plastic debris and fragments of nets. I can see into the nests from close up. I can clearly make out the orange and blue fibers of polypropylene ropes, remnants of fishing nets, and plastic strings. What looks like colorful decoration is deadly: time and again, adult and young birds get tangled up in it. The nets cut deep into their flesh or lead to an agonizing death by strangulation or starvation. Many seabirds also mistake plastic for food and feed it to their chicks, which then starve to death with full stomachs.

According to expert estimates, around 60 northern gannets and 100 guillemots die each year on Helgoland as a result of fishing net debris. The consequences range from injuries and organ failure to massive losses in breeding success. Intervention is usually not possible because if one were to approach the nests to rescue an animal, neighboring chicks would flee in panic and possibly fall to their deaths.

Other Species inhabiting the Cliffs: Guillemots, Razorbills, Kittiwakes, and Fulmars

The Guillemot (Uria aalge) is the namesake of Lummenfelsen. From a distance, they resemble small penguins, although they are capable of flight. They lay their eggs directly on the rocks without building a nest. The pear-shaped shape of the egg prevents it from rolling down. The colony is crowded, with loud calls and frantic fluttering. But amid the sounds of life, I also see several dead guillemots dangling in nylon nets at the edge of the cliff. The birds have become entangled in the plastic fibers and now hang as a silent memorial just a few meters from the path.

A little away from the guillemots, a few razorbills (Alca torda) nest. They are easily recognizable by their deep black color and the striking white stripe along their beaks. Razorbills have been breeding on Helgoland since the 1980s, using small piles of stones as nests. Kittiwakes (Rissa tridactyla) also belong to the breeding community on Helgoland's cliffs. In Germany, they breed exclusively on Helgoland and build small nests in sheltered niches, often made of algae and grass. But they also use plastic when they find it. Among the gulls, I also see a few fulmars (Fulmarus glacialis), elegant North Sea sailors with gray wings and a booming call.

Protective Measures for the Seabirds

Helgoland and its bird cliffs are under strict protection. The Lummenfelsen is part of a nature reserve, and visitors are guided along fixed paths; feeding the animals, drones, and climbing are prohibited. Research stations such as the “Institute for Bird Research” and initiatives such as the “Jordsand” association are committed to monitoring, litter collection campaigns, and education. Some of the net traps on the cliffs are removed regularly — a laborious but important contribution.

In addition, the EU is committed to reducing plastic waste and “ghost nets” – lost or deliberately discarded fishing nets that continue to catch and kill fish – as part of its Marine Strategy Framework Directive. However, as long as fishing waste and other plastic waste continue to end up in the sea, the problem will remain acute. Everyone can help – whether through plastic-free consumption, donations, or education.

Practical Information

Getting there

In summer, you can travel to Helgoland with the Halunderjet operated by FRS-Helgoline from Hamburg or Cuxhaven. The Cassen-Eils shipping company operates services from Cuxhaven, Bremerhaven, Büsum, and Langeoog. In winter, only the Cassen Eils shipping company's boat operates from Cuxhaven. From November onwards, travel to Helgoland is only possible from Cuxhaven with the Cassein Eils shipping company.

I traveled from Hamburg to Helgoland on the Halunderjet. The ship even had USB ports at the seats and a snack bar. At the landing stages, you can book a luggage service for a few euros. Then your luggage is taken directly from the ship to your accommodation. I had my bag taken to the Düne campsite. It took a while, so I used the time to take my first walk on the beach.

Accommodation

I definitely recommend staying on Helgoland for several days. I had planned three days for the northern gannets, and due to varying weather conditions (wind, wind direction, temperature), the behavior of the northern gannets was different each time.

Accommodation on the main island is extremely expensive. The best chance of getting good prices is to book very early (many months in advance) or to get a room at the youth hostel early on. If you want to book your accommodation on Booking.com , I would receive a small commission if you book via this affiliate link, and you would be helping me to run Fernweh-Motive. It won't cost you any more.

If you missed out on booking early but don't want to wait until next year, you can pitch your tent on the neighboring island of Düne. You'll need sand pegs and extra guy ropes, as it can get very windy. Protect your camera equipment from the sand. There is a charging station for cell phones and camera batteries at the campsite. However, the ten sockets are usually occupied and not all of them work. There are additional sockets in the lounge building at the harbor. Here you can sit comfortably and eat the snacks you brought with you. There is no kitchen at the campsite. So I was glad I brought my stove, which ensured my coffee supply in the morning.

One disadvantage of staying overnight on the dune is that you are tied to the dune ferry schedule and therefore miss the early and late light at Lummenfelsen. Tickets for the round trip cost €6 (as of 2025). One advantage is that you are close to the gray seals, which sometimes lie on the beach right in front of the campsite.

Luggage Storage

On the main island, there is free luggage storage at the Dünefähre ferry ticket office.

Food

On the main island, there is an Edeka supermarket and numerous restaurants in both the upper and lower regions. However, many of them do not open until the ships with day visitors arrive in the late morning/around noon. There are two restaurants and a small shop in the airport building on the dune.

Other Activities in the Area

• Other Activities in the Area
• Themed trails around the island for your own discoveries (history, culture, nature, architecture)
• Guided tours: island tour, nature tours, bunker tour, dune tour, lobster station, tour of the fishing garden of the Institute for Bird Research, historical urban tour
• Helgoland Museum with original replicas of lobster huts and lighthouse
• Bunker tunnels in the lowlands
• Watching seals on the neighboring island of Düne

Book Recommendations for Birdwatchers

Want to delve deeper into the hobby of birdwatching? Then I have three book recommendations for you. You can order the books* from Amazon by clicking on the images. If you purchase a book or other item via an affiliate link, I will receive a small commission and you will help me to continue filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be any more expensive for you.

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you want to go birdwatching right away? Then check out my article about Birdwatching in the Pond Landscape Linum and about Neuwerk Island - Birdwatching in the Hamburg Wadden Sea .

Der Beitrag Helgoland Vogelfotografie – Basstölpel und andere Seevögel am Lummenfelsen erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Norway. Massive bodies, shaggy fur, and a hint of the Ice Age. If you enter Dovrefjell in March, you are not only embarking on a journey through snow and cold, but also through time. Because here, in central Norway, musk oxen defy the Arctic winter - they are relics of a bygone world and are among the last representatives of an animal world from the Ice Age. They were already extinct in continental Europe, but were successfully reintroduced to Dovrefjell in the 1930s. Today, around 200 musk oxen live in Dovrefjell. Observing them requires perseverance, patience, and caution. A good way to do this is on a guided tour of Moskusstien, which I report on here.

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On the Moskusstien to the Musk Oxen in Dovrefjell

Our small group consists of three nature photographers and an experienced guide. Equipped with snowshoes and our camera backpacks, we set off in the morning from Kongsvoll, a tiny village on the edge of the Dovrefjell-Sunndalsfjella National Park. Our destination: a herd of musk oxen that have been spotted on the barren plateaus around the promising Moskusstien.

Our small group consists of three nature photographers and an experienced guide. Equipped with snowshoes and our camera backpacks, we set off in the morning from Kongsvoll, a tiny village on the edge of the Dovrefjell-Sunndalsfjella National Park. Our destination: a herd of musk oxen that have been spotted on the barren plateaus around the promising Moskusstien.

Moskusstien is a marked hiking trail in Dovrefjell that leads nature lovers and photographers directly into the realm of the musk oxen. The trail starts near the E6 at Kongsvoll or at Hjerkinn and winds its way through the barren, vast mountain landscape up to the plateaus where, with a bit of luck, the primeval animals can be observed. The trail is around 10 to 15 kilometers long (depending on the variant) and requires a good level of fitness, especially in winter when deep snow and icy winds make the ascent difficult. Snowshoes or touring skis are then essential. Along the way, Moskusstien not only offers opportunities for wildlife spotting, but also breathtaking views of the Dovrefjell massif, including the striking Snøhetta. Information boards along the trail provide information on geology, flora, fauna and the history of the reintroduction of musk oxen. Despite its accessibility, the tour should never be underestimated - changeable weather, disorientation and encounters with wild musk oxen make it advisable to walk the route only with appropriate equipment and an experienced guide.

Encounter with prehistoric Animals

After about three kilometers and 300 meters of ascent, we reach a valley. There they stand: six musk ox bulls. Their massive bodies seem almost immobile in the snow flurries, but the animals are wide awake. With their broad front hooves, they dig for lichens and roots in the snow. The dense, shaggy hair reaches almost to the ground and protects the animals even at temperatures below minus 30 degrees Celsius.

The musk ox (Ovibos moschatus) is one of the last representatives of the animal world from the Ice Age. Originally native to the Arctic of North America, it was successfully reintroduced to Norway in the 1930s. Today, around 200 to 300 animals live in Dovrefjell, where they are strictly protected. Hunting is prohibited, and observations may only be made at a distance so as not to stress the animals, especially in the cold season, when every escape costs unnecessary energy. Some of my photos may look as if I were standing right next to the animals, but I was further away than it seems. A good telephoto lens makes a lot of things possible here.

Anatomy of a Survivalist

Musk oxen are perfectly adapted to the Arctic cold. Their coat consists of two layers: a dense, woolly undercoat (qiviut), which is warmer than cashmere, and a long, coarse outer coat. Their bulky build with short legs, small tail and thick neck reduces the surface area exposed to wind and cold. Even their nasal structure is designed to pre-warm the air they breathe before it reaches their lungs.

In winter, the animals join together in small bull herds, while the females form their own groups with the calves. Only during the mating season in summer do the males compete for the females with impressive fights. This is a time when the animals can become aggressive and unpredictable. But now, in late winter, it's all about survival. Calmly, almost stoically, they stand in the wind and dig for food unperturbed. Only sometimes do they measure their strength by facing each other and staring at each other.

Safety in Dovrefjell with the Musk Oxen

The sky, which we have been keeping a watchful eye on since midday, darkens visibly. As predicted, the wind picks up, and it doesn't take long for the snow to whip horizontally across the plain. We make our way back laboriously, step by step, against the storm. Visibility gets worse and worse, but our guide knows the terrain and leads us safely back to the valley.

On a winter tour to the musk oxen in Dovrefjell, safety is paramount - both in terms of the harsh weather conditions and keeping a respectful distance from the animals. The high plateau is often still covered in deep snow in March, with temperatures well below freezing, strong winds, and sudden changes in the weather. Snowstorms and poor visibility can make orientation difficult, while icy slopes and deep snow make progress energy-sapping. There can also be a risk of avalanches on steeper slopes. It is equally important to keep a safe distance from the musk oxen themselves: Although the primeval-looking animals are generally peaceful, they can react suddenly and aggressively when threatened, especially older bulls. An adult bull can reach speeds of up to 60 km/h and attack dangerously with its massive body. A minimum distance of 200 meters is prescribed by the national park administration. Experienced guides know the behavior of the animals and the peculiarities of the area and make a significant contribution to making the tour safe and stress-free for both humans and animals.

It is only in the warm room of the Dovrefjell Lodge that I realize how exhausted - and satisfied - I am. The experience of encountering these primitive animals in their natural environment will stay with me for a long time.

Dovrefjell-Sunndalsfjella National Park

Dovrefjell-Sunndalsfjella National Park covers more than 1,700 square kilometers in central Norway and comprises a unique mosaic of alpine plateaus, deeply carved valleys, moors, and river systems. The park was established in 2002 and protects not only spectacular landscapes, but also an extraordinary diversity of species that have adapted to the harsh climatic conditions.

The highest peak in the national park is the 2,286-metre-high Snøhetta, a striking mountain and symbolic landmark of the region, which is also popular with hikers and nature photographers. Unfortunately, the hut at the viewpoint was not open in winter, but we were able to sit in the sun on a bench in the lee of the hut. Botanically, the area is remarkable, as rare arctic-alpine plant species grow here that are rarely found elsewhere in Norway.

Dovrefjell Park is particularly famous as the home of the last wild musk oxen on the European mainland, which, after being reintroduced from Greenland in the 1930s, once again roam the plateaus in small herds. In addition to the musk oxen, the national park is also home to one of the few remaining populations of wild reindeer on the European mainland. These animals are much shyer and avoid human proximity, but also roam the open areas in search of lichen under the snow during the winter months. In addition to musk oxen and wild reindeer, the park is also home to Arctic foxes, wolverines, and ptarmigans.

Dovrefjell Park is particularly famous as the home of the last wild musk oxen on the European mainland, which, after being reintroduced from Greenland in the 1930s, once again roam the plateaus in small herds. In addition to the musk oxen, the national park is also home to one of the few remaining populations of wild reindeer on the European mainland. These animals are much shyer and avoid human proximity, but also roam the open areas in search of lichen under the snow during the winter months. In addition to musk oxen and wild reindeer, the park is also home to Arctic foxes, wolverines and ptarmigans.

Conclusion

Anyone traveling in Dovrefjell in winter enters a landscape that is uncompromising - but also of profound beauty. And if you are lucky enough to see musk oxen up close, you will sense that they are more than just relics of the ice age: they are survival artists in a changing world and a reminder of how fragile even something as big and strong as the musk ox can be.

Book Recommendations for Nature Photographers

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Recommendations for further Reading

Want to spot even more wildlife? Then take a look at my article about Birdwatching in the Pond Landscape Linum and about Neuwerk Island - Birdwatching in the Hamburg Wadden Sea .

Der Beitrag Moschusochsen im Winterwind des Dovrefjell erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.