Eisberge, Gletscherfronten, Vogelklippen und zwei gelbe Kajaks: Sieben Tage lang paddeln mein Partner und ich 150 Kilometer von Narsaq bis zum Qaleraliq Gletscher, wo die endlose Weite von Grönlands Inlandeis beginnt. Unsere Kajaktour in den Eisfjorden im Südwesten von Grönland war schon vor dem Start ein Vollzeit-Job: Recherche, Planung, Vorbereitung und schließlich das Packen ließen die To-Do-Liste vor der Tour immer länger werden. Doch die Ruhe in den Fjorden, das leise Plätschern beim Eintauchen der Paddel, die Eisberge und deren Spiegelungen im Wasser ließen uns all die langen Abende vorm Computer und den Karten schnell vergessen.

You can find a similar version of the following article in Kajak-Magazin 01/2024..

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Greenland is cold, windy and a polar bear lurks behind every second iceberg. So it's no wonder that the centerpiece of our tour planning was a multi-page safety plan. The "What do we do if..." scenarios ranged from an encounter with a polar bear, capsizing, and various injuries to the loss of equipment or even a kayak. We were prepared for everything. That's what we thought.

What we hadn't expected was the glassy sea in the mornings and plenty of sunshine. We were sweating in our dry suits and preferred to put on a bit more sunscreen instead of a hat and gloves. Nor did we expect to be offered fresh seal liver by a seal catcher or to be woken up one morning by the roar of a helicopter.

Paddling Paradise between steep Cliffs, Icebergs and Glacier Fronts 

The starting point of our kayak tour is the town of Narsaq in the southwest of Greenland. With just under 1,400 inhabitants, Narsaq is the second-largest town in the municipality of Kujalleq. The fjords here are particularly beautiful for paddling, as there are more icebergs here than anywhere else. Most of the ice comes from the Eqaloruutsit glacier, around 60 kilometers away, and drifts west towards the open sea. The branching fjords, steep banks, and many islands make this a beautiful and relatively sheltered paddling area for experienced paddlers and outdoor enthusiasts.

All Beginnings are difficult... and so was Day One of our Kayak Tour in Greenland

We hired the kayaks, life jackets, dry suits, distress signals, and the satphone from Blue Ice Explorer in Narsarsuaq . We continue by water cab to Narsaq, about 50 kilometers away. But as the saying goes? All beginnings are hard... In our case, it is deep: from the landing platform, we lower the fully loaded kayaks about one meter into the water. Then we climb in after them. There is no beach or shallow jetty within easy reach.

Only in the second bay after that is a small beach, a sports boat jetty, and a supermarket where we buy the rest of our provisions. After what feels like an eternity, all our luggage is finally stowed in the kayaks. Before we set off, we take a break and treat ourselves to a coffee and one of those delicious pastries in the supermarket. Then we finally set off. At that moment, we wouldn't have believed that we'd be back here in the supermarket the next day, drinking another coffee and eating another Danish pastry.

What happened? 

Spaghetti or Spirelli...or not...

In the evening at camp, I'm faced with the difficult choice of spaghetti with pesto or spirelli with tomato sauce for dinner. I opt for spaghetti and look forward to the hot meal. I quickly unpack the cooking utensils and want to screw the stove onto the gas cartridge. Irritated, I look at the cartridge and try again. But it doesn't help. The stove doesn't fit on the cartridge, and redundancy doesn't help if you have the same stove attachment and the same gas cartridge with you twice. Not all screw threads are the same. Even if the difference is only a fraction of a millimeter and invisible to the eye. The kitchen remains cold that evening. The next morning we paddle back to Narsaq and pray to all the old and new gods that we can get suitable gas cartridges from the supermarket. We are lucky. To be on the safe side this time, I try out both cartridges with both stoves. After all, it's not just our hot meals that depend on the stove working, but also our drinking water. We melt it from the glacier ice floating on the water. This is pure fresh water. It is so pure that we even add extra electrolyte powder.

Across the Bredefjord with new Gas Cartridges

The return to the supermarket extended our paddle tour by 18 kilometers. We have already used up our bad weather buffer day on the second day of our tour. I'm frustrated and fear that we won't reach our destination, the Qaleraliq glacier, at all. At the end of July, it is still light for a long time here in South Greenland. However, paddling times are often limited due to the tidal current and stronger winds in the afternoon.

But when we arrive back at our camp from the previous night in the afternoon, the paddling conditions are so good that we immediately attempt the four-kilometer crossing of the Bredefjord. The weather is also kind to us on the following days, so that we make much faster progress than expected.

Wind and Weather

We get the weather forecast from our GPS tracker. The weather is always better than forecast. However, due to the high mountains, the branching fjords, and the strong sunlight, the conditions in each fjord change over the course of the day. In the morning, the water is often as smooth as glass. The sun then causes local balancing winds to set in around midday, which become stronger and stronger during the afternoon and subside again in the evening.

I check the barometer three times a day and observe the clouds in the sky throughout the day. Every day, cirrus clouds form, which usually indicate a change in the weather within the next two days. But the air pressure remains constantly high. The weather only changes when we are back in Narsaq and in dry accommodation. What luck!

Qaleraliq Glacier - the Destination of our Greenland Kayak Tour

After four days of paddling, we finally reach our destination and turning point, the Qaleraliq Glacier. South-north expeditions to the Greenlandic ice sheet used to start from here. Today, Qaleraliq Camp offers Arctic comfort with a view of the remains of the glacier front. Due to global warming, the glacier has retreated considerably, splitting into three smaller glacier tongues. Only two of them still calve icebergs into the water. Due to the coronavirus pandemic, the camp is closed in the summer of 2022 and we pitch our tent on a neighboring hill.

The next morning, I listen contentedly to the calls of the seabirds. But suddenly a loud engine roars in my ears. A cruise ship has anchored in front of our camp and started flying its guests over the Qaleraliq Glacier by helicopter. It's time to get up. I'm amazed at how quickly we break camp this time and load our kayaks.

Tip: Little treasures* that make paddler's life easier:Tip: Small treasures* that make life easier for paddlers:

Keep your Distance - Icebergs break, roll or collapse in on themselves

We keep our distance from the glacier with our kayaks. We also prefer not to get too close to the large, towering, or otherwise unstable-looking icebergs. Especially in the afternoon, after the sun has warmed the ice, we hear pieces of ice breaking off again and again and see icebergs rolling and sometimes making considerable waves. Even on land, you have to expect waves from out of the blue at any time. That's why we never let the boats out of our sight during breaks and prefer to tie them up once more than once too little.

Route Planning with Satellite Images

The banks of the fjords are wild, usually steep and often unsuitable for landing with a kayak. In addition to the risk of getting our feet wet from icebergs tipping over in the tent, we also have to take into account a tidal range of around three meters. Although there is a rough map of the area, the nature of the shoreline and its suitability for entry and exit are not recognizable. Instead, I analyzed satellite images to plan my route and used Google Earth to create my own map for our kayak tour in Greenland. I marked possible places to land or camp in color. I planned our daily sections with lengths of 20 to 25 kilometers, knowing full well that the weather could quickly throw a spanner in the works. The only thing we couldn't use was a planned camp at the foot of a mountain, as the risk of falling rocks was too high. It was going to be a long day of paddling. We had to paddle several kilometers to the next suitable spot. What's more, we had previously taken too long a break and now had to paddle against the tidal current in choppy water. We were cursing!

A nocturnal Visitor to say Goodbye

We spent our last night at the same spot where we set up camp for the first time.

I sit outside for a long time, not wanting the day to end. Something dark flits across the stones next to me. At first, I thought it was one of the many ravens, but it doesn't fly away. The animal remains like a mere shadow in the not-quite-dark night. Slowly, I recognize a small head watching me. Then I see the elongated body and the bushy tail. I carefully turn around to get a better look at the little Arctic fox. We look at each other for a moment, then he runs off.

I wait a moment to see if the little fox might appear again. Meanwhile, my gaze wanders over the Bredefjord. The icebergs are at their largest directly in front of our camp. In my mind, I can see two yellow kayaks gliding between the countless icebergs. I walk back to the tent with a smile on my face.

Book Recommendations for Greenland

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Have you ever been to Greenland yourself, maybe even for a kayak tour? How did you like it? Do you have any questions about my article? If so, please write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

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Recommendations for further Reading

Want to know more about travelling in Greenland? Then click here for my article about my Hike at Tasermiut Fjord or about my Winter Trip to East Greenland.

Der Beitrag Grönland Kajaktour – Paddeln in einem Meer aus Eisbergen erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

San Juan Islands, Washington State, USA. Paddling with Orcas! What a dreamlike imagination! In the Salish Sea, on the northwest coast of the USA this dream could come true. We put our luck to the test and went on a three-day paddling trip in the realm of the orcas. In the following article I will tell you about our experiences and share my most memorable impressions with you. Furthermore, you will get many practical tips for your Kayak Tour at the Orcas of the San Juan Islands.

Non-solicited, unpaid advertising. This article contains affiliate links*, marked with an asterisk.

What to expect in this Article

The San Juan Islands in the Salish Sea
Details of our Kayak Tour at the Orcas of the San Juan Islands
Highlights of our Kayak Tour Kayak Tours
Day by Day - the Route of our Kayak Tour at the Orcas of San Juan Island San Juan Island
How to get to the San Juan Islands
Packing list for your Kayak Tour

The San Juan Islands in the Salish Sea

The San Juan Islands are a group of several hundred islands in the Salish Sea off the coast of Washington State. Most of them are uninhabited, some of them are very tiny. San Juan is also the name of one of the largest islands in the archipelago. The main town of San Juan is Friday Harbor. This is where the ferry from Anacortes arrives, where most of the whale watching trips start, and where we meet for our three-day kayak tour with San Juan Kayak Expeditions.

The San Juan Islands are shielded from the waves and storms of the open Pacific Ocean by elongated Vancouver Island to the northwest. On the land side, they are framed by the high mountains of the Olympic Mountains, the Cascade Range and the British Columbia Coast Range.

Due to the location of the islands in the rain shadow of the Olympic Mountains, dry, sunny weather is predominant here. This is also the reason why the San Juan Islands are often called the Banana Belt. Even though no bananas grow here at all. But due to the protected location and the rich wildlife, the San Juan Islands are best suited for a kayak tour of several days.

Details of our Kayak Tour at the Orcas of the San Juan Islands

Duration: Our tour lasted three days. One, two, four or five day tours are also available.
Travel period: May through September
Orcas: The best chances to see orcas during a kayak tour at the San Juan Islands are in July and August, because that's when Southern Resident orcas frequent the Salish Sea. Transient orcas, on the other hand, can be seen year-round.
Distances: 25 miles total (10 miles, 9 miles, 6 miles).
Difficulty: You should have some paddling experience and you should be able to paddle for extended periods of time. Longer crossings are required in two places.
Costs: three day trip for $679.00 per person (2021)

Highlights of our Kayak Tour

Orcas

The highlight of every kayak tour in the Salish Sea is without a doubt the sighting of orcas or other whales. But such encounters are not predictable and you need a lot of luck. Unfortunately, we did not see any orcas during our paddle tour. However, when I was out later with a whale watching boat, I was able to observe orcas right on the shores where we paddled along.

Do you want to know more about the orcas at the Sun Juan Islands? Then check out my article about the Southern Resident Orcas on my photo website.

Wildlife

The Salish Sea is famous for its orcas. But of course there are many other animals that make the region an Eldorado for wildlife viewing. During our paddle tour we could observe many harbor seals and bald eagles. In addition to various gulls, we also saw kingfishers, cormorants, Canada geese, ravens and a peregrine falcon. Also of particular interest were the imported bighorn sheep, sitka deer and prickly horned antelope on Spiden Island. More about this later.

There are also chances to see the following species: Dall's and harbor porpoises, humpback whales, minke whales, gray whales, elephant seals, Steller's and California sea lions, river otters, mink, raccoons, foxes, as well as ospreys and many other bird species.

Landscape

In addition to animal observations, there are many other impressive experiences that I will remember for a long time. First of all, there is the scenic beauty of the islands with their rugged coasts and secluded bays. The campsites are idyllic and the sunsets over the neighboring islands are a dream.

I just love it when I am so close to the water in a kayak. Then I feel especially connected to nature. When I can also make out the kelp forest and purple starfish below me, it's time for a little paddle break. At some places, however, it is also worthwhile to let your gaze wander into the distance. If the weather is clear, you can see the ice-covered peak of Mt. Baker (3286 m) from the kayak .

Night Paddling with Bioluminescence

The highlight of the day is hidden in the dark: night paddling with bioluminescence. No, actually this are two highlights: First, paddling at night (when do you ever do that?) and then bioluminescence. That was really something special. I'll write more about it later and you'll also learn which little critters are responsible for it.

Day by Day - the Route of our Kayak Tour at the Orcas of San Juan Island

The first Day of Paddling

Even though I've limited myself to the bare essentials, my luggage seems like way too much, as usual. With waterproof bags, dangling Nalgene bottles and a bundle of rain gear in my arms, I greet the other fellow paddlers. After loading all the luggage into the van, we head for Griffin Bay. Here our kayaks are waiting for us: four tandem kayaks and one for our guide Jury.

First we listen to Jury's detailed briefing. Among other things, we learn how to climb back into the boat after a capsize on the open water. I look out at the water suspiciously, wondering how quickly this might happen. Fortunately, the water is relatively calm, the sun is shining and it's warm. Wonderful paddling weather, who thinks about capsizing? What I don't know yet: the water will change and become a bit choppy on the longer crossings.

After everything is packed and life jackets and spray blankets are put on, we are ready to go. To warm up, we paddle a short distance to Turn Island and take a lunch break. Chopped vegetables, hummus, bars and salted nuts. Jury also shows us our route for today on the map. We will paddle about 10 miles to our camp on Jones Island. Much of the route will take us along the Shaw Island shoreline. Our next stop is Yellow Island. A trail runs once around the small island and we are glad to be able to move our legs a bit.

It is not far to our camp on Jones Island. After setting up the tents and having a delicious dinner, we take a short hike to the opposite side of the island. Here we end the evening with a sunset and a sip of wine.

We were not the only paddlers on the water. But I have to say: we had the most beautiful boats. Yellow, orange, green, blue, and neon yellow. Each tandem kayak was a different color, roomy, and very docile to paddle. We also received lightweight paddles from Werner (I have one of these for my kayak at home), life jackets, splash guards, seat cushions, bilge pump, waterproof bags, and a tent. On the way, large water canisters always provided enough drinking water and in the evening Jury spoiled us with delicious hot food. Except for a few granola bars or snacks for the road, we didn't have to worry about food. And even for me as a vegan was taken care of. Simply fantastic and sooo delicious.

Tip: Little treasures* that make paddler's life easier:Tip: Small treasures* that make life easier for paddlers:

The second Day of Paddling

The next morning we wait for the right start time. This depends on the tides. After all, we don't want to have to paddle against the current. So we have a very relaxed start into the day and first of all an extensive breakfast. After packing, we even have time to circle the west side of Jones Island on a narrow trail.

But after the relaxed start soon comes the challenge of the day: the crossing to Spieden Island. The crossing is about five kilometers over open water. But on the second day of the paddle tour we are almost professionals and master this challenge with flying colors.

Spieden Island was bought in 1997 by James Jannard, the founder and main shareholder of Oakley. It is located about a mile north of San Juan Island and separated from it by the Spieden Channel. The north side of the island is densely forested, while the south side is a barren open landscape. We paddle along the north side. In the tall trees we spot several bald eagles. They seem to love the island. On the other side of the island, which we won't see until the next day, live bighorn sheep, sitka deer and prickly horn antelope. How did these exotic animals get to the island? They were imported in the 1970s and 1980s for hunting. There was a hunting lodge, airstrip and hangar. But due to environmental concerns, as well as the risk that errant shots could injure other watermen, hunting operations were discontinued. The imported animals remained on the island, surviving and reproducing.

We paddle along the pristine north side of Spieden Island and then cross over to Cactus Island and Johns Island. We finally set up camp at the Kristiansen Campground on Stuart Island. After settling in and having a delicious vegetable curry, we launch our kayaks into the water again. Our destination is the . Turn Point LighthouseFrom here you can watch the sunset .

But the real highlight of the evening awaits in the dark of night: Night Paddling with Bioluminescence. The darker it is, the better the blue glow of the plankton can be seen. We turn off our headlamps. With every paddle stroke it glows next to me. The bow wave of our kayak is also surrounded by a blue glow. It is so beautiful to see that I would have loved to continue paddling deep into the night. But unfortunately the distance to our camp is not that far. We can already hear the waves rolling in the bay towards the shore and the bottom of our kayak touching the gravel.

What is Bioluminescence?

This mysterious blue-green light comes from billions of microscopic algae that are found here in particularly high concentrations. When they are mechanically stimulated by waves, by a paddle, or while swimming, they briefly light up. The algae responsible for this are called dinoflagellates. Weltweit werden 2400 Arten unterschieden. Aber nur einige von ihnen sind zur Biolumineszenz fähig, wie beispielsweise “Noctiluca miliaris” was auf deutsch “Nachtlaternchen” bedeutet. Wie bei fast allen Arten der Biolumineszenz ist das Leuchten auf eine chemische Reaktion von Luciferin mit dem Enzym Luciferase zurückzuführen.

Experiments have shown that species capable of bioluminescence are less likely to become prey. Presumably, predators are deterred by the luminescence. Other theories suggest that the glow illuminates other organisms, which the predator then grabs instead.

The third Paddling Day

Today we paddle from our camp on Stuart Island back to Spieden Islandwhich we circle on the west side. This puts us in a good position to observe the exotic bighorn sheep, sitka deer and prickly horn antelope that live here. On the open south side of the island these animals can be seen very well. We paddle along the shore to about the height of Sentinel Island. Here we prepare ourselves mentally for the crossing of the Spieden Channel. This time even with some wind and waves. We stay close together as a group and paddle briskly across the channel. While I concentrate on the waves and the paddle movement, my eyes search the water surface not less concentrated for Orcas. But the whales still don't want to show themselves. Instead, a seal appears diagonally in front of us and looks at us with its big eyes.

Our next destination is Posey Island, the second smallest state park in America. Perfect for a quick stop and delicious burritos for lunch. The camp is idyllic. Those who stay here have an island almost to themselves (or their group). But if you want to camp here, you have to make a reservation in advance, like at almost all state parks.

We continue along the east side of Henry Island. To our left is San Juan Island with picturesque bays and some luxurious estates. I enjoy our las stretch on the water and try to soak up as much of this beautiful stretch as possible. Finally we paddle into Westcott Bay where we bring our kayaks ashore. Here the van with trailer of San Juan Kayak Expeditions is already waiting for us.

We unpack our stuff from our green kayak. At this moment I regret that I did not book the five-day tour. I would have loved to paddle even further.

How to get to the San Juan Islands

Friday Harbor, the main town of San Juan Island, is accessible by air or sea.

Tip: It is best to arrive one day before the start of the kayak tour. This is much less stressful. Plus, you may have an opportunity for a first whale watching tour or land-based orca watching at Lime Klin State Park.

By ferry:

Washington State Ferries run daily from Anacortes to Friday Harbor. If you are traveling by car, make a reservation in advance. You pay when you check in. If you want to cross without a car, you don't need a reservation. You don't really need a car in Friday Harbor, because many things can be reached on foot.

We stayed in Friday Harbor for a few days before and after the kayak tour. The only thing we needed a car for was the whale watching tour from Mayas Legacy. This starts in Mitchell Bay in the northwest of the island. Also, we always went to the west coast of San Juan for picnics in the evenings. This is where you get the most amazing sunsets as well as good chances of orca sightings from land.

During the kayak tour we could leave our car in the parking lot of our hotel, the Orcas Inn. If you want to leave your car in Anacortes, you can do so for a fee in the night parking lot of the Anacortes terminal.

By plane:

Friday Harbour Sea Planes offers several seaplane flights daily. Flights by regular aircraft are also offered by San Juan Airlines, Point to Point Air, and Kenmore Air. However, I think the ferry is a better choice.

Packing list for your Kayak Tour

In addition to the kayaks and paddles, life jackets, splash guards, seat cushions, bilge pump, waterproof bags and a tent are provided by the organizer.

• Sleeping bag and sleeping mat
• Head lamp
• Clothing in several layers (quick-drying material)
• Rain jacket and rain trousers    
• Outside the high summer: cap, scarf, gloves.
• Cup, plate, bowl, cutlery
• Drinking bottle, e.g. Nalgene (at least one 1-liter bottle for refilling, better two)
• Snacks for the trip
• Personal hygiene utensils
• Water sandals, if necessary socks for the boat
• Sneakers for the camp
• Binoculars and camera
• Maybe a power bank or solar panel
• Sun cream, sun hat and sun glasses

Book Recommendations for Kayak Enthusiasts

Looking for more great paddling destinations or want to refine your paddling technique? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Have you ever been on a kayak tour for several days and seen orcas or other whales? Where was it? Do you have any questions about my article? If yes, then write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you like paddling as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about a Paddling tour in Patagonia or about a Kayak Tour in the Swedish Archipelago.

Der Beitrag Kajaktour bei den Orcas der San Juan Islands erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links.

Where is the Heinabergslón Glacier Lagoon?

The glacier lagoon Heinabergslón is located south of Vatnajökull, between the famous ice lagoon Jökulsárlón and the city of Höfn. It is not located right at the ring road but approximately 7 kilometres inland, thus a little off the usual tourist paths.

Iceguide offers kayak tours on the glacier lagoon. The meeting point for the tours is on the ring road at Flatey Farm. From here it takes about 15 minutes in a 4x4 bus on a gravel road to the lagoon. From Höfn to the meeting point you drive about 38 kilometres, from the Jökulsárlón ice lagoon about 42 kilometres. The GPS coordinates of the farm are 64°15'32.7″N 15°34'54.7″W (64.259074N -15.581846W).

Details of the kayak tour on the ice lagoon with Iceguide:
Total duration of the tour: 3,5 hours
Price: 15.900 ISK (about 100 Euro)

Tips for your Kayak Outfit

For the kayak tour in the glacier lagoon you will be equipped with a dry suit, rubber boots, neoprene gloves and life jacket. Underneath you should dress as comfortable and warm as possible. But not too warm on the upper part of your body, because such a dry suit quickly turns into a sweatbox.

How warm it gets while paddling depends on how fast the group is going. But if you are dawdling and freezing, you can easily paddle extra laps or zigzag.

On my paddling day it was sunny and dry at 15° Celsius, but very windy. I wore the following:

• On top I was wearing a thin long-sleeved merino shirt and a thermoshirt.
• On the legs a thermo and an outdoor leggings on top of each other.
• And on the feet a pair of thin and a pair of mega-thick merino socks.
• On the head a cap and sunglasses.

For your camera or other things you want to take with you on the kayak, waterproof bags in different sizes are available.

The Kayaks and the Wind

On the way to my kayak tour I made a short stop at the glacier lagoon Fjallsárlón. A biting wind blew head-on over the ice lagoon towards me. It was quite strong. Do we really go paddling in this wind? No sooner was I back in the car than my mobile rang. And my kayak tour was shifted from 9 to 12 o'clock. So the wind was too strong after all.

Luckily the wind calmed down a bit around noon and the kayak tour took place. Strong wind is quite common here. Once it was even so strong that it blew the kayaks away from the beach. Therefore all kayaks were now weighted down with big stones.

The kayaks are stable sit-on-top kayaks. They are wide and do not tip over so easily. However, if there is a lot of wind or you are inattentive, this can happen. Therefore our guide explained in detail what to do if we fall into the water. Sounded simple at first: Turn the kayak over again if necessary, position yourself to the side of the kayak and let your bottom and legs float up. Afterwards, one simply pulls the kayak underneath oneself. I prefered not to try it...

You've never paddled before? No problem! Your guide will explain everything you need to know: Among other things, how to adjust the footrests, how to hold the paddle and how to paddle as energy-saving as possible.

The Glacier Heinabergjökull

A real paddle tour also includes a little break where you can get out and stretch your legs a little. At the glacier tongue of Heinabergjökull is the perfect place for this. We pulled the boats onto the ice for a bit and then the crampons came into play. I was really impressed by my new Icelandic outfit: dry suit, rubber boots, crampons and sunglasses! What a combination!

We walked up the glacier tongue, always following our guide. The surface of the glacier looked like compressed caipirinha ice. There were small rivulets, crevasses and holes in the ground and I was happy about the crampons on my rubber boots, which gave me a non-slip step. From a small rise we had a wonderful view to the glacier and over the lagoon.

What else can I do after the Kayak Tour in the Southeast of Iceland?

The Flatey Farm, the meeting point for the kayak tour on the ice lagoon, is one of the biggest dairy farms in Iceland. Visitors have the opportunity to take a look inside the farm . A restaurant also serves traditional Icelandic dishes. Unfortunately everything was closed during my stay because of Covid-19.

If you are already so close to the town of Höfn, I recommend a visit to the Vestrahorn east of Höfn. Vestrahorn is a 454 meter high mountain with many peaks. A great photo motif. Plan for a visit at least two hours, but I would like to stay longer, because there are very nice hiking trails and a lovely Viking café.

Towards the west it is worth visiting the famous ice lagoon Jökulsárlón and Diamond Beach. Maybe you would like to take a Zodiac between the icebergs to the edge of the glacier again?

Book Recommendations for Iceland

Do you want to know where the journey is going? Then I can recommend this travel guides* to you.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. This does not make the product more expensive for you.

Have you ever done a kayak tour in Iceland yourself? Where was that and how did you like it? Do you have any questions or suggestions about my article? If so, please write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love the Scandinavian countries as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about the Kayak Tour in the Swedish Archipelago or a Trekking Tour to the Greenlandic Ice Sheet.

Der Beitrag Kajaktour auf der Gletscherlagune Heinabergslón in Island erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

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What to expect in this Article

Would you rather be on your own or in a guided Group?
Do I borrow a Kayak in Sweden or do I bring a Kayak?
How to get there?
East Coast or rather West Coast?
Which Route is best?
How long should a Day's trip be?
What do I have to take with me?
How do I navigate between the Islands?
Where can I spend the Night?
What is the best Way to load my Kayak?

Would you rather be on your own or in a guided Group?

Before you start planning, the first and most important question has to be answered: Should it be a guided kayak tour in a group or would you rather explore the archipelago world on your own? Only on your own can you enjoy the real Robinson Cruso Feeling. But if you want to go without an organized group, you should pay attention to the following:

• You have to assemble the complete equipment yourself (rent it if necessary), i.e. everything for paddling, camping, cooking.
• In addition, you should have experience in paddling, even in wind and waves and in bad weather. Remember, you are on the sea! From time to time also further away from the shore.
• Basic knowledge of navigation and the use of map and compass are also necessary.
• You will also have to take care of all your own provisions and drinking water.

We've decided to go kayaking in the archipelago on our own. Therefore, all of the following explanations are related to a self-organized kayak tour.

Do I borrow a Kayak in Sweden or do I bring a Kayak?

Paddling is very popular in Sweden. Therefore you can rent kayaks including equipment and partly even camping equipment in many places. In summer you should reserve your kayaks in advance.

Possible providers are:

• Scandinavian Kayaking Adventures on the coast of Bohuslän
• Kayakparadiset St. Anna on the east coast near the archipelago of St. Anna and Gryt
• Dalarö kayak or Skärgårdens canoe centre in the Stockholm archipelago

We brought our own kayak from Berlin. This had the advantage that we were not tied to the rental stations locally and that we could adjust our starting point and the route more flexibly to wind and weather. But more about that later in the route planning.

Here our paddling equipment at a glance:

• Inflatable kayak Triton Ladoga 2 advanced
• the light weight paddle Shuna from Werner
• the Karitek sail

How to get there?

Sweden is easy to reach by car from Germany. This has the advantage that you can transport all your equipment well and also save the carbon dioxide for a flight. The ferries depart in Germany from the ports of Kiel, Travemünde, Rostock and Sassnitz. During the summer months you should book in advance, for example here at directferries.de.

East Coast or rather West Coast?

Sweden has beautiful archipelagos both on the east coast and on the west coast. It is really a difficult decision whether it should be the one in the east or the one in the west.

Here's a little decision-making aid:

• With more than 8,000 little islands, Bohuslän is Sweden's most beautiful paddling area. It stretches along the west coast from Gothenburg to Norway. There are lonely islands with sandy beaches, rocks and cliffs.
• Another great paddling area is St. Anna and Gryt on the east coast. There are more than 6,000 islands here. Since there are also a lot of reefs here, there are fewer sailboats on the way. The archipelago is greener, i.e. more trees grow on the islands and there are fewer bare rocks than in the west. But there are also no sandy beaches.
• Paddling conditions in the east are usually more moderate as they are less exposed than the archipelago in the west.
• The archipelago in the west is more populated. So you have more boat traffic but also beautiful fishing villages.
• But also the archipelago in the east around Stockholm is very well visited. If you stay south of Arkösund, it will be quieter.

We made it easy for ourselves and let the weather decide. Since we had our folding kayak in the car, it was possible to be so spontaneous and go to the better weather on the east coast.

Which Route is best?

That depends. Because the route depends most on the wind forecast. For this I can recommend the Windfinder .

We had set our route through the archipelago only two days before the start of our kayak tour. At that time constant south wind was announced for 7 days. For this reason, our route led north. For this we chose an area with as large an island density as possible.

As starting point we chose the camping site Figeholm. Because it was directly on the water, opposite the big island Öland. Here we made our kayak ready and could leave our car on the parking lot after consultation with the campground keeper. When choosing the starting point, it was important for us that it could also be reached later by public transport. Because we did not intend to paddle back the same distance against the wind.

How long should a Day's trip be?

Your days will be focused on paddling, breaks, pitching and dismantling tents. In addition, it is very bright in the summer evenings. That means you have a lot of time for paddling.

In a two-person kayak you can easily manage stages of about 30 kilometres a day, in a single kayak 20 to 25. But of course it always depends on whether you have a headwind or whether a rainy morning lets you stay longer in the tent than planned. Therefore, you should always plan a buffer day as a precaution.

We did it like this: we paddled every day as long as we wanted or until we found a nice place for the overnight stay. But the search for a nice place to sleep sometimes took a little longer. At the end of our tour we looked for a camping site. From here we went by public transport to get our car.

The length of our daily stages varied between 15 and 32 kilometres (24, 22, 26, 30, 32, 15, 24 kilometres).

What do I have to take with me?

Besides the usual personal things I have listed some essentials for your packing list:

For paddling:

Beside the kayak, paddle and spraydeck and possibly a sail you need:

• Sufficient number of waterproof bags in different sizes
• Paddle gloves in case it gets cold or you get blisters on your hands
• Life jacket with whistle
• Bilge pump and sponge
• Spare paddle
• Rope for tethering the kayak during a break
• Rope for tying the paddle against loss
• Neoprene seat cushion
• Map, compass, GPS if necessary
• If necessary, wetsuit or dry suit! Question your skills, consider your route and the water temperatures depending on the season!

The Usual:

• Camping kitchen with cooker, pots, crockery, fuel, eco-sink, etc.
• Garbage bags
• Tent, mat, sleeping bag
• Picnic blanket
• Clothes, rain protection, bathing things
• Personal hygiene articles, toilet paper, wet wipes, eco soap
• Sunglasses, Sunscreen, Basecap
• Camera
• Possibly Solarpanel or Powerbankl for the edition of the mobile phone, GPS etc.
• Travel Medicine Kit

What else?:

• Powertape for repairing various things
• A few more straps / cord to tie or repair
• Torch

Then you also need food supplies and drinking water. How much depends on whether there are campsites with shops on your chosen route. There are also additional supply stations in the archipelago (at least I know they exist in the eastern archipelago). Sailors and paddlers can fill up their drinking water here.

By the way: the slightly salted water of the Baltic Sea is great for cooking pasta. But only if there are not too many algae in it.

How do I navigate between the Islands?

With the many similar looking islands it is sometimes difficult not to lose orientation. We wanted to combine our kayak tour in Sweden with a "digital detox" and therefore decided to navigate with map and compass. Therefore we left our mobile phones with Navifunktion switched off. Only once we paddled away and had to determine our position with the help of the GPS of our mobile phones.

I can recommend 1:100,000 scale Väg maps to you. They are detailed enough and waterproof. If you want to paddle with GPS, think about where you can get electricity and stow your device well in a waterproof bag.

Where can I spend the Night?

An absolute highlight of a kayak tour in the archipelago is that you can camp wherever you want. Well, almost. You shouldn't set up your tent somewhere in someone's front garden. So keep some distance from houses.

You should also consider this when choosing your seat:

• Keep some distance from houses (out of sight)
• There are nature reserves that you are not allowed to enter during the breeding season. It is better not to pitch your tent here. The protected areas should be marked on the paddle map.
• Do not disturb breeding birds. In addition, breeding terns react very aggressively if they come too close to the nest. They always attack the highest point, i.e. in an emergency hold something high above their head.
• Best look for a place where the tent will be dried by the morning sun.
• Don't stay too close to the water, because there are tides in the Baltic Sea as well.
• Tie up your kayak for the night or pull it far enough ashore.
• Leave no rubbish behind, no toilet paper either.
• And if you ever need a warm shower, an official campsite for the overnight stay is usually not far away.

What is the best Way to load my Kayak?

There's hardly anything more annoying than having to unpack the completely packed kayak again. So make a plan before loading your kayak and stow everything you might need during the trip within reach. Either in a bag on the deck or in your seating area. Organize your luggage in different bags: For example a bag for breakfast, one for dinner, a kitchen bag, a bathroom bag and so on. Also keep in mind that anything stowed on the deck is a target for the wind. So here less is more. Furthermore, everything heavy belongs downwards. Because your boat lies better in the water. But pay attention to the maximum carrying capacity of your kayak and do not load it too heavily.

At the End of my Tips I have a little Anecdote

It was my first longer kayak tour at that time. With two single kayaks we went to the Danish South Seas, where we wanted to paddle from island to island. Our provisions were not very weight-optimized at that time: too many canned food, beer and wine. When I got into my fully loaded kayak, it sank so deep that water ran over the edge into my seat hatch.

Book Recommendations for Kayak Enthusiasts

Looking for more great paddling destinations or want to refine your paddling technique? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Have you ever paddled a kayak in the Swedish archipelago yourself? How did you like it? Do you have any further tips or maybe a question about my report on the kayak tour? If so, please write me a comment!

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Recommendations for further Reading

Do you like paddling as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about a Paddling tour in Patagonia or about a Kayak Tour at the Orcas of the San Juan Islands

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Unsolicited, unpaid advertising, since names are mentioned.

At a glance: The highlights of our kayak tour in Patagonia

• View of the Torres del Paine mountain range and other fantastic mountain panoramas
• Paddling on Lago Grey with icebergs from Grey Glacier
• Rio Grey and Rio Serrano with wild shoreline landscapes
• Serrano waterfall
• Paddling in front of the Serrano Glacier with icebergs
• Animal observations: Condors, geese, wild cows
• Picnic and camping on the banks of rivers or fjords
• Super delicious food
• An impressive starry sky

Icebergs in Bahía Grey

After an early start at 6am in Puerto Natales we are already rewarded with great views during the two-hour drive to Bahía Grey. We see the striking mountain massif of Torres del Paine and other great mountain panoramas.

The Bahía Grey is then the starting point for our kayak tour in Patagonia. The Grey glacier calves into this bay and on the opposite side of the bay we see the first icebergs. Due to the wind conditions, icebergs accumulate in the bay and can be seen here with great probability.

We get our paddling equipment, get into our waterproof suits, put on our life jackets and then pack the rest of our stuff in waterproof bags. We even get helmets. Not if ice from a glacier falls on our heads, but rather if we tip over in a kayak and then drift helplessly in the river. The rivers have a stronger current and there are stones and fallen trees in the water.

After a safety briefing we also get some helpful tips for paddling and then we go to the icebergs. We learn how to hold the paddle correctly, how to use the steering wheel and how to be careful when getting in and out of the car and so on...

On the water, in the middle of the bay, it is windy. We warm up quickly as we paddle against the wind. But the ever growing icebergs motivate us. Icebergs can suddenly move. They can break apart or tip over. Therefore we keep a safe distance with our kayaks.

After we have inspected our first iceberg from all sides, we continue in the other direction, along the Rio Grey.

Floating on the Rio Grey

Even without a paddle we already make a good trip. Because the current of the Rio Grey carries us forward and a wild shore landscape glides past us. The broken bank embankments testify that the river can flow even faster and be even wilder than today. Again and again we see wild geese. Other people we do not see during our river trip. With the wind and the current the paddling becomes more relaxed and we can enjoy the view. On our left we see the impressive Torres del Paine mountain range, which also includes the impressive Paine Grande with a height of 3,050 metres.

We paddle to the confluence of Rio Grey and Rio Serrano - the "Confluenza". Here the grey glacier river Rio Grey flows into the blue Rio Serrano. Shortly afterwards we reached our destination for the first stage and our escort vehicle takes us to Camp Los Andes. Our guides Angelo and Julia from Espíritu Patagón start the grill and spoil us afterwards with a Patagonian barbecue and Chilean wine.

By the way: There are also day tours. Then you paddle on Lago Grey by the icebergs and then down Rio Grey.

Patagonian big Game Safari at the Rio Serrano

After we have had an extensive breakfast and stowed our luggage back in the boats, we continue on the Rio Serrano. The river is wild and pristine. Sandbanks alternate with steeper banks, sometimes the river is wider, sometimes narrower. The current helps us to paddle the kilometres that are planned for the day. Without the current this would be quite a challenge. With the current, the biggest challenge is navigating. In some places you have to help the paddle with bow strokes in addition to the rear steering. But everything goes well and we avoid the stones and the trees lying in the water like real kayak professionals. I even dare to unpack my big reflex camera from the waterproof bag. Because there are plenty of motifs.

Patagonian geese rest on the shores and from time to time we also see a herd of wild cows. As if they had been engaged for our kayak tour in Patagonia, the herd changes from one side of the river to the other directly in front of our kayaks. I only hope that the cows are faster than the current of the river, which drives us to the herd of cows.

But after a relaxed start it gets more exhausting: the Serrano waterfall forces us to carry the fully loaded kayaks around. Two of us carry in front, two carry behind. But the boats are still damn heavy. We use the paddles as a carrying aid.

After a little refreshment the Rio Serrano continues to the camp at Puerto Toro. This camp is beautifully situated at the foot of the Balmaceda mountain and the Serrano glacier.

The Serrano Glacier - the Highlight of our Kayak Tour

The Serrano Glacier rises right in front of us. We approach the edge of the glacier as far as safety allows. Our kayaks look tiny opposite the mighty wall of ice. As if spellbound, I look up at the jagged and cracked ice and enjoy being here.

The Serrano Glacier is a popular excursion destination. There is a boat dock next to the camp, a small hiking trail and two different vantage points. One is right below the lagoon. The other one leads via a path on the mountain flank up to the glacier.

Before the day trip guests arrived, we were already with our kayaks on the lagoon Serrano and paddled past icebergs towards the glacier. The sight of this mighty wall of ice was spectacular and made us quiet while we paddled.

Ship to Perales - the End of our Kayak Tour in Patagonia

From the camp at Puerto Toro we will cross the fjord of Last Hope and return to Puerto Natales by excursion boat. The kayaks are loaded onto the boat and we look for a sunny spot on deck. With a view to the Serrano Glacier we toast with a glass of whiskey on glacier ice.

And how exhausting is it?

As long as the weather plays along, the tour is good for anyone in average fitness. The indicated track lengths seem very long at first. However, as you paddle with the current, these distances are well feasible. Especially in double kayak.

Day 1: 18 miles, 4-5 hours paddling time
Day 2: 26 miles, 6-7 hours paddling time
Day 3: 2 miles, 1-2 hours paddling time

With head wind it can become however fast strenuous. That's what we felt on our last leg.

Tip: Wear gloves right from the start, because it prevents blisters. Loosen and stretch in the breaks extensively your arm and shoulder muscles.

Equipment Tips

You will get a kayak, paddle, waterproof suit, gloves, paddle paws, life jacket, spraydeck, helmet and waterproof packing bags. On request you can rent a tent, sleeping bag and sleeping mat. All meals and snacks were provided.

We were able to leave some more luggage, which we didn't need during the kayak tour, in the office of our tour provider Espíritu Patagón lassen.

What you shouldn't forget to pack:

While you paddle:

• Drinking bottle
• Sunscreen
• Sunglasses with good UV protection
• Chocolate bars, student food or similar for a snack between meals
• Camera

For the camp:

• Wet wipes (certainly this was not planned - but the showers were cold or there was no water if the generator in the camps was not switched on)
• earplugs, if the generator in the camps runs a little longer
• Thermal underwear and fleece as underwear (fast-drying synthetic)
• Wool or synthetic socks (no cotton)
• Head lamp
• Warm down jacket for the evening
• Rain jacket and rain trousers
• Trekking shoes
• Insect Repellent
• gloves, cap, scarf
• And of course all your personal stuff you need, toothbrush and co.

Have you ever done a kayak tour in Patagonia yourself? How did you like it? Do you have any questions about my article or any other tips? If so, please write me a comment!

Recommendations for further Reading

Kayak tour through Sweden's Archipelago - the best Tips for your tour Planning

Tips and Highlights in Ushuaia and Surroundings

Der Beitrag Paddeln in Patagonien – die Highlights unserer 3-tägigen Kajaktour erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.