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Sweden. Only in retrospect, as I look through the photos and write this article, do I realize how many topics we covered during the Wilderness Guide Training in Vindelfjäll. Much of it was integrated into the course in a very natural way, so I picked it up almost incidentally and rather unconsciously. Christoph Maretzek, the founder of the Guide Academy Europe, explained other things in detail in individual steps and had me practise them again and again, such as making a fire. Even with wet wood! Other important topics for us were nature conservation on tour, intercultural competence and the responsibility you take on as a guest of a country or as a guest in nature.

I'll show you a few things we did during our wilderness guide training tour in this article. I'll stick to the surface because Christoph can better explain the exact details and procedures, tricks, and tips in his courses. Click here for the Guide Academy Europe (GAE) courses and here for TREKK'N Guide..

With Christoph Maretzek and the opportunities he offers through the GAE in terms of training and with TREKK'N Guide for leisure activities, I have come across a treasure trove of knowledge, skills, and (training) experience from a whole lifetime of touring. A treasure that has enriched me personally. Especially nature conservation on tour and the combination of modern outdoor life and traditional handicraft techniques, as every farm boy, every indigenous person, and every wilderness traveler used to know. Be it making a new handle for the axe on the road, repairing a rucksack, building a pack board, or a knife with the simplest of tools.

What is Wilderness Guide Training about? Why am I doing this at all?

Nothing is easier than closing the door behind you and simply setting off. Even from Berlin, it's not far from the great outdoors. And if you like it a bit more secluded, you can just get on the train and drive a little way. So far so good. When it comes to taking the right equipment with you, knowing how to use a map and compass, or predicting the weather based on the clouds, it gets a bit more challenging. But thanks to my previous Trekking Guide Training at the Guide Academy, that and much more that goes with a trekking tour also works.

Anyone who knows me knows that I love the remote areas of northern Europe with treeless landscapes and mountains, such as Greenland, Iceland, and northern Scandinavia. Areas where only a few people are still out and about and there are only narrow paths. Areas where nature makes the rules and doesn't care whether the tent is waterproof, whether you can get the fire lit, or whether you've twisted your ankle. Areas where there are no general terms and conditions and where it is better not to rely on a prompt rescue in an emergency.

Welcome to the wilderness! In a world that most of us first have to get to know again. We have forgotten how to observe and interpret the natural world around us. We are also rarely born with manual skills and creativity. But these are essential on wilderness tours and need to be learned and practiced. Only those who can improvise along the way and repair their equipment if necessary will make progress. This is exactly where the Guide Academy's Wilderness Guide Training comes in.

Preparation for Work and Tours in the North

And then there's something else: I'm planning to work on a husky farm in Finland for a few months from April 2024 and then hike long tours in Sweden. The Wilderness Guide training is part of my preparation for this. As I will also be doing a lot of manual work on the farm, the training also includes three craft/bushcraft modules for me. But there will be a separate article on this later. However, there is already a small foretaste at the end of this article.

First things first: Nature Conservation on Tour

Every year, the right of public access attracts numerous nature lovers, outdoor sports enthusiasts and adventurers to Scandinavia. However, in the belief in boundless freedom, boundaries are repeatedly crossed. If you don't find out beforehand what you are allowed to do and what you are not allowed to do, you can quickly put your foot in your mouth. "Don't disturb and don't destroy anything" is the motto. Quite simple really, isn't it? If everyone sticks to it and takes responsibility, then not only nature is preserved but also everyone's rights. Because the fact that we are allowed to use nature so freely in Scandinavia - especially as guests of a country - is by no means a matter of course.

Here you can read about Everyman's Right..

At the Guide Academy Europe, Conservation on Tour is taught and practiced with the "10 Golden Rules for Guides". Those who adhere to these rules show professionalism and responsibility towards our nature and help to preserve what we love most.

The 10 Golden Rules for Guides

#1 Do not leave paths unnecessarily
#2 Cook on the stove if feasible
#3 Fire and camp only in safe places
#4 Avoid protected areas, spawning and breeding grounds
#5 Avoid garbage and take it back with you
#6 Protect animals and plants
#7 Know and observe local rules
#8 Respect the local way of life
#9 Pass on your own knowledge
#10 Guiding by example

©TREKK’N Guide 2018

We spent a lot of time on the trail dealing with responsible campfires and washing on tour and also filmed short clips about it. I was particularly amazed at how much water you need to put out a campfire. When we thought it was extinguished, we still found pockets of embers under the stones surrounding the campfire. We needed a good three liters of water in total!

A Word about the Weather

Up in the fjell, the weather rules the world. It decides where we go or whether we go at all. Many tough guys and gals say "there's no such thing as bad weather, only the wrong clothes", but that's only half the truth. The other truth is that bad weather is often the reason why some hikers have fatal accidents. Or that rescue teams have to be called out and the rescuers themselves become drawn into risky activities.

Sound skills, training and good equipment are essential. Just like common sense and sensible consideration of the conditions. We therefore changed our route planning on the way and did not go into the mountains of the Ammarfjäll, far away from any paths and shelters, due to the forecast of heavy rain and storms. Instead, we continued on to Rävfallsstugan. A good choice!

Craftsmanship on Tour

Knife sheath, saw handle, wobbler, and float

If you are traveling away from supermarkets, DIY stores, or Amazon prime, you are well served with a sharp knife, a well-thought-out repair kit, a little imagination, and dexterity.

During our Wilderness Guide training and the subsequent stay at Värdshus Ammarnäs, we made two plugs, two fishing floats, a knife sheath and a simple handle for a saw blade. We tried out the wobblers in the water. With a little extra lead, one of them submerged well. The other had a little more buoyancy and swam in a sideways position just below the surface. Almost like a real injured fish. We hadn't fitted any hooks during the tests as our fishing license had expired in the meantime - yes, that's right, you need a fishing license for many waters in Sweden too. You can find more information here or at the local tourist information office.

Lost your Map? Let's make a Sketch

Has the hiking map flown away? The smartphone and GPS batteries are flat? And now what? The only thing you can do now is to hope that the next hiker passing by will have a coffee with you and let you copy their map. And this is how it works:

Did you grow up without a smartphone, scanner, or photocopier? Then you're probably still familiar with tracing. A blank piece of paper is placed on the image to be copied. The translucent contours are then simply traced. If the translucency is not sufficient, you can help yourself by placing the card and paper against a window or even using a flashlight to provide light from behind.

But what if you don't have blank paper but just a piece of cardboard or fabric? Then there's no more tracing. Then you can transfer the map using a grid. It is best to use the grid of the coordinate system in the map as the grid. The individual elements of the map are then transferred one by one: the paths, trails, bodies of water, peaks, contour lines, vegetation and prominent points such as huts or ruins.

A little Hut Etiquette

There are mountain stations, mountain huts, shelters and windskyds along the hiking trails in Sweden. I'll group them all together here under the term "hut", even though there are of course major differences. What they all have in common, however, is that sometimes more, sometimes fewer hikers pass and use the huts every day. Some hikers do this because they want to be comfortable, others because they are in need or - without a hut - would be in need. Mutual consideration and respect should be a matter of course in such a confined space with several strangers from different cultures. In this context, Christoph liked to quote the famous philosopher Immanuel Kant: "Would I like all other people to act in the same way?" Here are three examples:Möchte ich, dass alle anderen Menschen auch so handeln?” Hier drei Beispiele:

• Do I want all the people to spread out their wet clothes and all their luggage in the hut and claim all the seats for themselves?
• Do I want everyone to scribble loudly early in the morning while others are still asleep?
• Do I want everyone who visits a mountain hut to burn the winter wood for emergencies in summer without being in need and turn the hut into a sauna?

All clear, right? 😉

Learning from Nature - Shoe Care

What the little plant can do so easily, my hiking boots can do too... But only after thorough and regular care.
Nature shows us how to do it:

In order for the water to roll off the leaves so nicely, it has to be as water-repellent as possible, for example with a thin layer of wax. A shoe wax is therefore part of my standard equipment on trekking tours. GoreTex membrane in the shoes or not ... how often have I had wet feet even with GoreTex (no, it wasn't sweat). A thin(!) layer of wax on the upper leather of trekking shoes provides additional protection and prevents the leather from becoming brittle. You can rub muddy shoes with a tuft of grass or juniper before waxing. Then apply the wax with your fingers to the cleaned / preferably dry shoes and massage it in gently. Then leave them in the sun for a while to allow the wax to soak in.

Tip: Shoe wax is also easy to make yourself from beeswax and a little wool grease. Without any additional chemicals, the shoe wax also ensures velvety soft hands on tour.

Culinary Highlights on the Trail - it doesn't always have to be bagged Food

Homemade Trekking Food

Quick, easy and convenient: this is how the outdoor industry advertises freeze-dried trekking food in bags at peppery prices. Just pour hot water on it and you've got a one-size-fits-all product that nobody really knows what's in it.

Until recently, I took exactly this kind of food with me on tour. Supplemented by other, cheaper instant noodles from the supermarket. Of course, I knew from other blogs that many hikers make their own trekking food. There are countless recipes on the internet. But somehow the spark just wouldn't ignite. I then acquired a taste for it during my training as a trekking guide. Christoph had brought some things for us to try: dried vegetables, fruit, meat, fish, and homemade pemmican. This was the first thing I made as a veggie variation for my trip to Greenland. My variation was not lightweight, but it was delicious and soooo filling! What was in it? Magarine, oat flakes, corn starch, chopped dried fruit, nuts, and honey.

For our Wilderness Guide training tour in Sweden, I dried a wide variety of ingredients, packed them in airtight containers and then mixed them together on tour as the mood took me. The tour cuisine was definitely not boring and monotonous. What was on the plate? There was, for example, dried sauerkraut or red cabbage with mashed potatoes and dried beef, pre-cooked red lentils with colorful vegetables, or, as a snack between meals, fruit leather made from a pureed mixture of apple sauce, peach, ginger, and lupin protein powder with pumpkin and sesame seeds, chia and psyllium seeds.

Picking Mushrooms and Berries

Almost every day we also had berries and mushrooms on our plates, deliciously sautéed with onions and garlic. In the wet August there were so many mushrooms growing in the birch forests that we no longer said "I'm going out to look for mushrooms" but rather "I'm going out to pick mushrooms". Birch mushrooms were the most common. But there were also porcini mushrooms and butter mushrooms.

Fishing

We also had fishing gear with us and had each bought a fishing license for seven days in Ammarnäs. But even with the license, fishing is not allowed in all waters. As we had changed our original route due to the weather, we didn't get to the planned fishing waters.

Getting wet at the End: over Hill and Dale with the Packraft

Last but not least, we inflate the packrafts on our last sunny day of our Wilderness Guide training. We put our paddles together, tie our rucksacks to the bow of our rubber boats and strap on our life jackets. Into the boat and off we go. But after a section where the Vindelälven flows wide and calm, the river changes its face. We get out of the boats, take a look at the rapids, and decide to tow the boats along the banks. We work our way along in sections, sometimes in the boat, sometimes on foot. Exactly as we had estimated before the tour using satellite images and existing maps. The white, foaming rapids were clearly visible on the Google Earth satellite images and I added a few details to our hiking map by hand on this basis.

Our day with the packraft on the wild river left a deep impression on me. Shortly afterward, I gave a talk on the subject of nature conservation and packrafting and also wrote a blog article on the subject. In May/June, an abridged version of my article will also be published in Kajak Magazine. You can find the long version "Nature Conservation on Tour – nature-friendly Packrafting" here.

Further Modules of the Wilderness Guide Training at the Guide Academy Europe

Crafts and Bushcraft

The training tour in Vindelfjäll was just one part of the Wilderness Guide training. Other modules I have completed include bushcraft, survival, handicrafts, and cabin life. There will be another article on this soon. But here is a little foretaste:

On the self-built (!) bench made of ash wood you can see forged pot hooks, blanks for knife blades, a forged arrowhead, two built knives, tinder, a carved bowl made of Swiss stone pine, flat bread, cakes from an improvised mold, smoked meat and Swiss stone pine schnapps (also homemade by Christoph, but not on this weekend) with improvised schnapps cups made of tea lights. In front of the bench, there is a self-made pack board with a pack sack (right) based on an old model with an old Romanian army rucksack (left), as well as prepared wood for tool handles and two can stoves. Not in the picture are our improvised kerosene lamp, our landing net, two tool handles and a self-made drill.

Wilderness Guide Course - Nothing of the Peg

I completed the newly developed Wilderness Guide course as a pilot course in solo training. This allowed me to prepare specifically for my planned year in the north and to practise and gain experience with all the tools and their handling with my own hands. In addition to the fixed modules such as Wilderness Basic Training, Emergency Training, First Aid or Canoe/Packraft, the Wilderness Guide training also includes some optional modules such as carpentry, old tools for camp, and hut or knife making. This means that everyone can deepen their Wilderness Guide training according to their own needs/interests. This distinguishes the Guide Academy training from all other wilderness guide training courses available on the market.

In 2025, GAE will be in its 10th year! The training potential is huge and there is something for everyone. With Christoph and a team of experienced freelancers, participants will get their money's worth. Christoph's outdoor experience, his technical training as a carpenter, his leadership skills learned in the mountain troops and as a mountain hiking guide, and his knowledge of human nature and helpfulness, which he also lives as an experienced social worker and educator, are complemented by craftsmanship and attention to detail. Christoph is characterized by thoroughness and a far-sighted approach, as well as his ability to conjure up something in an emergency in the blink of an eye with little equipment. I hope I'll be able to do the same in the future, whether on tour, at the husky farm or at home in the kitchen...:-)

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Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love long hikes as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about the Laugavegur in Iceland or about the The 9 most beautiful Hikes on the Isle of Skye.

Der Beitrag Wilderness Guide Training in Schweden mit der Guide Academy Europe erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

In my hometown, a rogue poured detergent into the fountain in the marketplace one night. The morning after, you could hardly see the fountain anymore because of all the foam. The children were delighted and played in the soap bubbles. Around noon, the city's sanitation department pulled the plug, rinsed a bit and the soapy water flowed into the sewage treatment plant. There, special bacteria took over the decomposition of the soap residue. 

But what actually happens to soap residues in nature? Is it enough to buy biodegradable eco-soap? Can you soap yourself from top to bottom and then jump into the lake to rinse off? To these questions, there can only be a clear NO! Why this is so and how to do it better you will learn below.

Waters are not Washbasins but Sensitive Habitats

Waters and riparian zones are important habitats for animals and plants. For many species, the transition areas between land and the waters are important as breeding grounds and nurseries.

The riparian zones are particularly sensitive and unfortunately also exposed to the most disturbances. The most obvious is mechanical damage caused by trampling, visual pollution caused by washed-up garbage, or food leftovers from washing up. Shoreline and shallow water areas are often sheltered and the water remains here longer and is warmer than in the open water. As a result, residue from washing water is less likely to spread through the water in these areas. Even a small amount of soap can change the pH value here to alkaline and thus impair the living conditions of many animals and plants. In addition, soap reduces the surface tension of water, which becomes a problem for water striders and backswimmers. The nutrients introduced with the soap cause algae and aquatic plants to grow beyond normal levels. The water becomes turbid, the oxygen content decreases due to increasing biological degradation processes, and the species composition in the lake may change in the long run.

By the way, the Water Resources Act stipulates in §9 that the "discharge of substances into water bodies" is prohibited and that according to §5 everyone must comply with a general duty of care.

The best reason not to wash in water on a trekking tour is not the regulation but nature itself.

What does it mean to be biodegradable?

Biodegradable soap sounds pretty good. But what does that actually mean? First of all, it means that the soap is biodegradable. This means that there are microorganisms that can break down the substance within a certain time under certain conditions. In most cases, these are optimal laboratory conditions. Degradation means decomposing a substance via various intermediates to carbon dioxide and water as well as minerals.

The problem is that the bacteria that do this live mainly in the soil. They are most active when it is warm and there is enough oxygen in the soil. So the hair shampoo and dishwashing liquor will last quite a long time in the cold water of a lake in northern Sweden

Drinking Water becomes a Source of Disease

I just returned from two treks in Lofoten and northern Sweden. In one bay in Lofoten, the water in the streams was so contaminated that signs warned against drinking untreated water. In northern Sweden, several cabins along the Kungsleden were closed because of increased gastrointestinal infections from contaminated water. In addition to the use of water bodies as sinks, the main cause here was that many hikers didn't care where they did their big business.

The Daily Soap Opera - Washing on Trekking Tours

Simple and proven: the "Cat Wash"

First, the simplest solution that I personally like best and has worked well so far. Cat wash with clear water or if necessary with wet wipes. The latter then go into the garbage bag and are disposed of after the tour. This cat wash works well for me, because I am usually out and about in cold areas and dress in such a way that I do not break into a heavy sweat when strenuously walking uphill with a backpack.

At least 60 Meters Distance from the Body of Water

This applies not only to a full bath in the lake but also to brushing teet, washing clothes and dishes.

For soap, only biodegradable products make it into my backpack. Various manufacturers advertise camping soaps and detergents for the outdoors. If you take a closer look at the descriptions of the products, you should find the hint that these products must not be put into the water and must be used at a distance from the water. This also applies to biodegradable soap! In nature, this is also mainly degraded by bacteria that live in the soil. As a rule of thumb, remember 60 meters distance from the body of water. Then dispose of the water above ground by spreading it over a large area. To transport the water, I use my two 1-liter Nalgene bottles and a waterproof packsack.

A hairy Affair: Hair Washing on Trekking Tour

Washing my hair is a bit more difficult. With my long hair, I need quite a lot of water and also soap. Therefore, I prefer to wait until the next campsite or the next permanent accommodation. If I have to wash my hair on the trail, I fill water into a waterproof bag with a large opening and then dip my head into it. While I soap my hair, I close the roll-top closure of the bag and have both hands free. To rinse, I dip my head back into the bag and rinse again with fresh water. I catch all the wash water in the bag. If I still have laundry to wash, it now goes into my "tour washing machine". Then the water is distributed over a large area in a suitable place.

Washing Clothes and Dishes without Soap

When washing dishes, you can often do it without soap. Dried-on residues can simply be left to soak, rubbed off with sand and grease can be dissolved with hot water.

Even a sweaty T-shirt or used socks become wearable again after a longer soaking in water - without soap. What also helps is choosing the right material: for years, I've relied on merino shirts and socks, because they smell less quickly and are still warm when wet.

More Tips for Washing on Trekking Tour

• Shower and wash clothes best at a campsite.
• Use organic soap = no synthetic substances, parabens, silicones, dyes, artificial perfume, microplastics, palm oil and no animal testing! Avoid essential fragrances as these are also slow to break down.
• Trekking soaps are highly concentrated, so use them sparingly.
• You can reduce plastic waste with solid shower and hair soap.
• When brushing your teeth, don't spit all the toothpaste onto one plant, but spread it out like a spray fountain.
• Use hand sanitizers that don't need to be rinsed off to wash your hands without worrying about sewage disposal.
• Where fresh water is scarce, it is better not to swim in streams or ponds. Sunscreen and insect repellent can quickly contaminate these vital water sources.

Book Recommendations for Nature Lovers

You want to know more about nature-friendly camping and traveling? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order these books at Amazon with a click on the pictures. If you buy a product via one of these affiliate links, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you.

Do you have any questions about my article? If yes, then write me a comment!

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Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love long hikes as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about the Laugavegur in Iceland or about the The 9 most beautiful Hikes on the Isle of Skye.

Der Beitrag Ein Vollbad im Bach? Waschen auf Trekking-Tour – so geht’s erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Jeder kennt es, jeder kann es und jeder macht es in der Regel einmal am Tag. Es ist also etwas ganz natürliches. Doch in der Natur, fällt es uns plötzlich schwer. Es fängt mit der Suche nach einem stillen Örtchen an, geht mit einer unbequemen Hockstellung und gar fehlendem Klopapier weiter und endet meist mit einer deutlich erkennbaren Hinterlassenschaft in der Natur. Shit happens! Damit ihr das nächste Mal in der Natur euer großes Geschäft wie ein Profi abwickeln könnt, hab ich euch einen kleinen Guide geschrieben. Viel Spaß beim Lesen und nachmachen!

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Main Goals when doing the "Big Business" in Nature

Your big business should remain hidden and it should secretly provide the desired relief. Other hikers should not notice anything; they should not see or smell any of it; nor should they step into it or get sick from it. Nature itself, i.e. the forest, the meadow, or the lake, should also not be affected. Because, unlike the hiker, who quickly disappears from the minefield, nature has to live with your piles. Usually one month. In cold areas longer. In ice forever. See also the rotting table from the Austrian Alpine Club.

Fair play to nature! Here's how it works:

Everything centers around four main points:

1. Minimize pollution of water bodies by additional nutrient input.
2. Maximize decomposition rate
3. Minimize social disturbance
4. Minimize insect or wildlife contact.

By following these four points, you will help nature and avoid disease transmission.

How do you shit in Nature without shitting on Nature?

There are basically two strategies to avoid shitting on nature:

Variant 1: Bury your poop in a 15 to 20 cm deep hole, called a cat hole.

Variant 2: Pack it up, take it with you, and dispose of it after the tour.

I'll get to the details in a minute...

Find out if there are regulations for handling feces in the area where you are touring. In some high altitude, (sub)arctic, sensitive, or heavily used areas it is advisable or even required that you pack your shit and take it back with you.

A Calculation Example

On a summer day, there are 20 tents in Kvalvika Bay, a beautiful bay in Lofotodden National Park, Lofoten. With one or two people per tent, that's about 30 overnight guests and up to 30 piles per day. Let's assume optimistically that the toilet paper is collected in the garbage bag and the number of overnight guests is only half as high at the beginning and end of the season (June and August) as in July. Then there are still about 1,845 (half-decomposed) piles at the end of the Friluftsliv season. If each pile weighs about 400 grams, that's almost a ton of droppings at the end of the season. That's about the weight that two to three Icelandic horses weigh. Nature has to cope with that first. In the cold north, it's not so easy; the decomposition time is much longer than in Central Europe. The remains will probably not disappear completely into the sea until the snow melts next spring.

By the way: due to the many toilets in the bay, the water from the streams is no longer drinkable without prior treatment. Signs warn visitors accordingly about germs.

Cat Hole - Bury your Poop in the Cat Hole

The strategy behind the cat hole is simple: give nature a chance to clean itself by placing your business thoughtfully. Cover your pile afterwards to minimize any negative impact. Cats know and do this instinctively.

How good is your instinct? Take the Quiz: What is the best place for a cat hole?

The answer at the end of the article.

Step by Step to Number Two with the Cat Hole

1. Find a suitable place:
   • Be 60 yards (about 70 steps) away from bodies of water and not in a drainage channel where the water flows when it rains or the snow melts. If you are above a body of water, then pay special attention to sufficient distance here. Otherwise, the next rain will carry the dissolved feces directly into the water.
   • Not within sight of trails or camps.
   • No ground saturated with water
   • Preferably a sunny, warm spot because that's where decomposition rates are best
2. Dig a hole 15 to 20 cm deep
   • Use a small shovel, branch, or other improvised object for this purpose.
   • Trying to dig a hole with a trekking boot usually just compacts the soil, which is counterproductive.
   • Lifting out the top layer is best done in one piece, especially in grassy soil.
3. Increase the rate of decomposition by mixing your business and some soil with a stick.
4. Fill in your hole, trying to restore the soil surface exactly as it was before. What's not so good and why: putting a large rock directly on top of the pile. This will reduce the risk of someone stepping in it, but it will slow down decomposition by reducing the area of attack and ventilation.
5. Put your toilet paper in a garbage bag. Other hygiene products such as wet wipes, tampons, and sanitary towels should also be put in there.

Shit to go! Pack and go

The gap in the market has long been recognized and retailers offer various types of shit bags.

There are for example the Biffy Bags from America, which I was able to try out on my last hike in Lofoten. Lofotodden National Park has provided the bags free of charge as part of a project for campers in the popular bay of Kvalvika. The bay is visited by many day guests and also by overnight guests in the summer. Toilets are available at each of the parking lots... a good two hours away.

Die Biffy Bags haben innen einen grünen Plastiksack, der als Hilfe zum Eintüten des Haufens gedacht ist. Dieser landet dann in dem silberfarbenen Beutel mit einem Absorptionsmittel. Das grüne Plastik wird dann ebenfalls in den silberfarbenen Beutel gesteckt der dann luft- und geruchsdicht verschlossen wird. Ein bisschen Klopapier und ein Handdesinfektionstuch sind inklusive. Ein Rundum-Sorglos-Paket? Kommt drauf an, aus welcher Perspektive man drauf schaut: erstmal schön für die Natur. Aber es entsteht dadurch natürlich zusätzlicher Müll (das Biffy Bag selbst), der über den Hausmüll zu entsorgen ist. An den Parkplätzen im Nationalpark stehen große, blaue Container für die Entsorgung bereit.

Of course, there are also simpler methods: you can also do your business in a normal garbage bag and then put it in another tightly sealable bag. Climbers have for example the Poop Tubes. There are no limits to your own ingenuity.

Tips for the "Small Business" in Nature

For those who just want to pee in nature, the following applies:

• Move away from trails and camp or unpleasant odors may develop depending on the weather.
• Do not pee in or too close to small bodies of water such as pools, streams, or ponds. Move away about 60 yards.
• You can, however, pee directly into large rivers or the sea, as the urine is quickly distributed sufficiently in the volume of water.
• Animals can be attracted to the salt in the urine. To get at the salt, they may then dig up sensitive vegetation. It is therefore recommended to pee on rocks, stones or leaves, and needles and not on moss and flowers.

Special Tip for all Ladies

With a special pee funnel, you can pee standing up and leave your pants up in cold or rainy weather. After practicing a few times, you won't miss a thing.

For beginners and advanced: the book* on the subject and the associated tools*.

Solution of the Quiz

The marked spot in picture 3 is best for a cat hole. Why? It is more than 60 yards from the body of water, off the trail, and there is likely to be enough organic material on the ground near the trees in which to dig a hole. In addition, the small trees also give some privacy.

First picture: This place is unsuitable, because it is too close to the water.

Second picture: This place is also only conditionally suitable, because it is obviously in the direct inflow of the brook in the valley. Here it helps to increase the distance to the stream.

Fourth picture: It is easy to dig holes in the sand. But unfortunately, the microorganisms involved in the decomposition are missing here. Moreover, digging would destabilize the slope of the small dune and promote erosion.

Book tips for sustainable Camping

You want to know more about nature-friendly and sustainable camping? Then I have three book recommendations* for you.
If you buy a book or another article via an affiliate link, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Wanderweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you.

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Recommendations for further Reading

You are still looking for an idea for your next camping trip in nature? Then take a look at my two following articles:

Der Beitrag Shit happens! Kleiner Guide für das große Geschäft in der Natur erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

What applies to everyday life at home becomes even more important during a hiking or paddling tour: The best waste is that which is not produced. After all, the distance to the next disposal bin can easily be tens of kilometers. Avoiding waste on a trekking tour can be quite simple and sometimes really tasty - save packaging, repackaging, making snacks and trekking food yourself, finding alternatives, or doing without something.

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#1 Prepare your own tasty cereal bars and snacks

Muesli bars should not be missed on any hiking tour. However, the ratio between food and packaging is particularly unfavorable for these popular energy sources. But there is a very simple solution: make your own muesli bars and pack several together in a resealable zip bag.

#2 Reuse empty packaging

Some packages, for example of muesli or the bags of trail mix and dried fruit are very sturdy. Way too good to throw away. Quickly clean them up a bit and then use them again as new packaging for food supplies. Add a rubber band and it sits and holds. This also works at home. I just put my homemade granola bars in a cleaned old wrapper.

#3 Make your own trekking food & packaging-free shopping

Portion-packed trekking meals or instant noodles quickly fill up the garbage bag on tour. It's more waste-saving to make your own trekking food and fill several portions in a reusable ziplock bag.

Is there a store in your city where you can do packaging-free shopping? In Berlin, for example, you can go to Original Unverpackt in Kreuzberg or in Fair unverpackt in Charlottenburg. The organic supermarket chains Bio Company, Veganz, and Denn's Biomarkt have also set up unpackaged stations in some of their stores.

#4 Refillable bottles instead of PET bottles

PET bottles are re-collected and recycled through a deposit system in Germany. Nevertheless, it costs energy to produce, transport, fill, collect and recycle these bottles. In many countries, PET bottles are not collected separately and end up in landfills. It is better to use reusable bottles right away, such as the Nalgene bottles. On a trekking tour one has anyway one's refillable bottles or drinking bladders and if necessary something to treat drinking water. The situation may be different if you are traveling by camper. But even there you can refill your canisters and do not need to buy bottles.

#5 Avoid disposable mini bottles

Who does not know those mini bottles of shampoo and shower gel in hotels or the shelves with travel items in the drugstore? Of course, if you're going on tour, you don't want to take the 500 ml bottle of shower gel with you, so the mini bottles are very convenient and quickly end up in the shopping basket or are snatched from hotels. When I was a little kid, my grandpa always brought me a collection of soaps, shower gels, and shampoos from his senior trips. I had two giant bags. What a treasure that was back then!

But again, there are several more eco-friendly alternatives right now: If using mini bottles, make sure you can refill them. Some bottles are very stable and close reliably. So it doesn't have to be the expensive bottle from the outdoor outfitter. Instead of liquid shower gel and shampoo, you can also simply take solid soap or solid shampoo in a box. There works, for example, the good old curd soap or the organic products from Lush. By the way, liquid products are available at Lush in tightly screwable containers that you can return to Lush for reuse.

#6 Use less soap

Wash-up water is also waste and harms nature. Therefore, use it sparingly on the road and always at a sufficient distance (min. 60 meters) from the water. Rinsing dishes with hot water alone or with a sand scrub is also excellent. Your shirts and socks don't need that much detergent either: just hang them in the water overnight and let them soak properly.

#7 Handkerchiefs and toilet paper

Ok, this might not be so fashionable now, but it's super practical: instead of stuffing your pockets with used tissues, just snort into nature. Take a leaf from a tree or plant, or snort directly onto the ground with one nostril held shut.

Then take it a step further: just like natural handkerchiefs, there is of course natural toilet paper such as leaves of leaves, smoothly polished stones or snow.

#8 Avoid food waste

"Eat your plate and you'll have good weather tomorrow!" Who hasn't heard this phrase? At home, one simply puts the leftovers in the refrigerator and reheats them the next day. On tour, it's not quite so easy; depending on the temperature, leftovers can quickly become inedible. Good meal planning or a flexible stomach will help avoid leftovers. If the weather permits, then a well-sealed Tupperware box also helps.

#9 Leftover shelves in communal kitchens

In the communal kitchens of cabins or campsites, there are often "leftover shelves" where you can find food no longer needed by departing campers. Sometimes there are also gas cartridges or half-full spirit bottles. Just have a look around in the communal kitchen to see if you can use some of the leftovers. It would be a pity if it is thrown away. Likewise, other campers will be happy if you donate your no longer-needed provisions to the community.

Why burning garbage on tour is not a solution

The responsibility you bear as a hiker for nature and your peers is multiplied many times over when you light a campfire. You need to know how, where and with what to light a fire, whether it is allowed at all and, above all, how to extinguish it again and how to rebuild it afterwards. As the drought in our forests increases, so does the risk of forest fires. In 2021, the total number of forest fires in Germany was 548, of which 128 fires were caused by negligence. Find out about the current forest fire danger level, for example on the DWD website, and what regulations apply at the respective danger levels.

It's better to pack up and dispose of all your trash. Food scraps often do not burn completely and can attract animals. Never burn toilet paper on the spot where you do your business, instead, burn it in a safe fireplace. Under no circumstances should plastic or coated packaging material end up in the fire, as toxic, sometimes carcinogenic gases are produced. Residues remain in the ash and thus also get into nature.

Everything in its place - waste separation during / after the tour

At some point even the most beautiful tour is over, the toilet paper and the coffee are all gone and the garbage bag is full. And it's full of all kinds of things... because who does waste separation on a trekking tour? Actually, why not? It doesn't make the garbage heavier or multiply it. There is often a waste separation at the parking lots of the trailheads or in the settlement that is the destination of the tour. Inform yourself beforehand, then you know what makes sense on the trail and what does not.

Tip: when preparing for the tour, by choosing your food or repackaging if necessary, you can not only reduce waste but also the effort required for waste separation and also the weight that you have to carry. Glass on tour, for example, pesto in a jar or oil in a glass bottle, is a no go. Besides its enormous weight, it breaks easily, and sooner or later someone cuts their fingers or soles. If not you, then perhaps the next hiker who lies down in the grass or a wild animal.

Book tips for more sustainability and waste reduction on tour and in everyday life

You want more tips on how to avoid waste on tour and in general and bring more sustainability into your camping vacation? Then I have three book recommendations for you. If you buy a book or another article via an affiliate link, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you.

Do you have any other ideas for reducing waste on tour? If yes, then write me a comment!

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Recommendations for further Reading

You are still looking for an idea for your next camping trip in nature? Then take a look at my two following articles:

Der Beitrag Der beste Müll ist der, der nicht entsteht: Müllvermeidung auf Trekking-Tour erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Google keeps track of everything. The smart search engine even knows how often the terms "camping", "nature", and "nature camping" were googled within Germany in the last three months. Google provided an answer for the expression "nature friendly camping" as well. This, however, raises some questions. I'll come back to them later. First the statistics:

• Camping 1 million-10 million.
• Nature camping 10.000-100.000
• Sustainable camping 10-100
• Nature friendly camping 1-10

A short time after my keyword research I stumbled across an advertisement. Since Google knew that I like to go camping, it suggested a solution to make camping more comfortable and convenient in the future: an air conditioner for my tent! Wow!!! Impressive was also the picture, how the camping couple in front of the tent lets the air conditioner blow the cold air into their faces. Of course everything ecologically with solar power. The solar panel is available in addition...

Is a solar-powered air conditioner for the tent the only thing the Internet can offer us regarding sustainable camping?

I am preparing a hiking and camping trip to the Lofoten Islands. The group of islands north of the Arctic Circle is a magnet for all nature lovers and photographers and is more than well visited during the season. Therefore, responsible behavior in nature is especially important. While preparing for the trip, I was able to find a few more ideas for sustainable camping on the internet. In the following you can read how to make your camping trip more nature-friendly and sustainable.

# 1 Is it allowed or not? Free camping in nature

Some countries allow free camping in nature. However, most countries do not. In addition, differences are made whether you are traveling with a motorized vehicle or not. Check beforehand for your destination. Also check whether there are any protected areas where additional or different rules may apply.

Wild camping is generally prohibited in Germany. Alternatives to camping are the increasingly numerous trekking sites. However, one must reserve or arrive early, as only a few sites are available. For boaters, there are specially marked rest and camp sites. You can find them, for example, in the DKV river guides or in the water sports maps from Jübermann-Verlag.

If you are traveling by camper, you will find beautiful, individual sites for example at Alpacacamping .

# 2 Friluftsliv and Everyman's Right

You are planning a camping tour in Scandinavia? Inform yourself about the Everyman's right applicable in the respective country. Even if many campers associate with the Everyman's Right a boundless freedom - this is wishful thinking. There are rules and limits. And if you don't know them, you will quickly make a faux pas. And the more faux pas are set in nature, the more restrictions there will be at any given time. And rightly so. We only have one nature. And this is not an infinitely renewable resource.

Here you can read the rules for Norway, Sweden and Finland . For protected areas there are often additional rules. Check on the internet or ask at visitor centers or local tourist information. They appreciate everyone who is responsible and proactive with nature.

In Denmark, the Faroe Islands and Iceland, the Everyman's Right is much stricter or non-existent.

# 3 A good campsite is found, not made.

It is not difficult to find an official campsite on the map. It is more difficult to book a place on one of the trekking sites. If there is no camping or trekking site and it is legally allowed, one has to look a bit closer to find a good pitch for the tent:

On a good campsite, the tent does not get in the way of other hikers or animals that want to get to the watering hole. If there are a lot of animal tracks at an inviting place, this is a clear sign that your tent would disturb here and you might even get animal visitors during the night. A good choice is a place where you will affect nature as little as possible. A surface of rock, stone, sand, gravel, snow or dry grass is much less sensitive than moss and swampy terrain. If you wear soft shoes in the camp you will not only do your feet some good but also reduce the creation of trails around the tent. When you take down your tent the next morning, cover the tracks of the tent and try to put the flattened grasses back up. Why? By doing so, you will reduce the likelihood of attracting more campers to the site and creating a camp with obvious signs of use, soil compaction, and worn vegetation cover.

Adhere to the motto "Leave No Trace", do not disturb or destroy anything.

# 4 Who unpacks must also pack up

Does the following situation sound familiar to you: you reach a small shelter in the forest and at a distance of a few meters around the shelter white handkerchiefs are shining in the bushes? Paper handkerchiefs are made of cellulose, so they were originally made of wood. But manufacturers are making them more and more tear-resistant. This makes them increasingly durable, and it can take up to five years for them to fully decompose.

How long garbage takes to decompose depends on its composition and the prevailing environmental conditions. Some waste materials can harm ecosystems and permanently pollute nature with harmful residues (keyword microplastics). Often, trash becomes wildlife's fate or a deadly trap.

• Apple core: 2 weeks
• Banana peel: at least 6 weeks, often 1 to 2 years
• Orange peel: 2 to 3 years
• Paper bag: 6 weeks
• Cornflakes and cereal wrappers: 6 weeks
• Paper handkerchief: 3 weeks to 5 years
• Aluminum foil: 200 to 400 years
• Plastic bags: 100 to 500 years
• Plastic bottle: 450 to 5,000 years
• Tetrapack: 50 to 100 years
• Nylon fibers: 60 years 

Source: Utopia.de

Wouldn't it be great if everyone repacked their trash and disposed it in the designated containers? Did the people who used the space in front of you leave anything lying around? I'm sure there's room in your trash bag for that, too. Nature will be thankful for it.

Garbage also includes supposedly natural things like leftover food or banana peels. Put these in your trash bag, too, to avoid attracting wildlife. Human waste is also waste. However, I will soon explain how to shit in the forest without shitting on nature in a separate article.

# 5 Preparing trekking food oneself and avoiding garbage

Trekking food is usually packaged in single portions, making it particularly convenient to prepare. This is convenient, but also produces a lot of waste. Cereal bars that are all individually wrapped or trekking food in thick, coated bags do not have to be. You can make your own granola bars in minutes and pack them in a more environmentally friendly way. With a little more time, you can dehydrate food and bag your homemade trekking meals in reusable Ziploc bags. There are plenty of trekking food recipes and instructions for dehydrating food on the internet. There are no limits to your creativity when putting together your trekking meals.

# 6 How to get there?

Probably the most relevant point for the nature friendliness of a trip is the way to get there. It doesn't matter if it's a camping trip or a hotel vacation. Many destinations within Europe can be easily reached by train. Long-distance hikes from A to B work best with public transportation anyway. And a train or bus ride can make the tour even more adventurous. Sometimes even in a positive sense. Sure, the DB is not exactly known for punctuality and frequent changes with a lot of luggage is annoying. But sometimes the journey is the destination and traveling slowly helps to arrive at one's destination mentally and physically at the same time.

I have made a commitment to myself to reduce my own flights and to look for alternatives to flying before every trip. That also means to consider the destination or at least to change to bus and train on the spot. This summer I will travel mostly by train and in Lofoten we will be completely on foot or by public bus.

# 7 The equipment: buy or rent? New or used? Repair or replace?

The outdoor industry advertises limitless freedom, adventure and self-fulfillment. You only need to buy this and that and you're in. But do you really need everything yourself? Do you have to buy your own pulka for a week-long tour? Do you need a GPS or can you borrow one from a friend? Do you need a fourth or fifth fleece?

Some outdoor outfitters as well as youth hostels or tour companies offer rental equipment at moderate prices. This saves raw materials, energy and money. And everyone who rents something on site doesn't have to carry it there.

And if it should be your own ski equipment or your own kayak at some point, then maybe something used will do? Or the other way around: equipment that is no longer needed might make someone else happy and go on another great tour with its new owner? This is better than throwing them away or letting them collect dust in the cellar.

Everything that is used can also break down. But do you really have to throw it away and buy something new? Many things can be repaired with simple steps. Some outdoor outfitters have even set up their own repair department. This is much cheaper than buying something new.

Tip: When buying boots, make sure that they can be resoled.

# 8 Sustainable Outdoor Clothing

The term sustainability is increasingly common in connection with outdoor items. Sometimes as an empty phrase, but often with concrete content. Recycled materials, merino wool from happy sheep, PFC-free membranes or down without live plucking are some points that are advertised.

The best and simplest tip is this: Look at what you are buying beforehand. Compare different suppliers. Buy only what you need and don't buy cheap items at the expense of nature.

Book tips for sustainable Camping

You want to know more about nature-friendly and sustainable camping? Then I have three book recommendations* for you.
If you buy a book or another article via an affiliate link, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Wanderweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you.

Do you have any comments or suggestions about my article? If yes, then write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

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Recommendations for further Reading

You are still looking for an idea for your next camping trip in nature? Then take a look at my two following articles:

Der Beitrag Naturverträglich Campen – Tipps zum Nachmachen und Mitmachen erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Greenland. One of my feet stuck between two roots, branches tugged at my 26 kilo backpack and small thin twigs tore at my hair. There was no back and forth, no left or right. I took a breath and tried again. How far this strech of birch thicket reached, I could not see. The birches were taller than I was. Dwarf birches they should be. Then finally a free area, swamp, a brook and a few stones. Behind it the next birch thicket was waiting for us. For hiking at Tasermiut Fjord one needs patience and good nerves. You want more? Then read on and see what made hiking here so uniquely beautiful and rewarding.

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4 kilometers in 10 hours - Welcome to Tasermiut Fjord!

Our most important companions during our hiking tour at Tasermiut Fjord: sunglasses to protect our eyes from branches, trekking poles, my drone to scout the next trail section, chocolate and patience. Each step wanted to be carefully placed. Here, at Tasermiut Fjord, the rules of nature applied. What ideas we had about our trekking tour didn't matter in the wild. Soon we dropped our expectations, adapted and suddenly paid attention to things for which we had no eyes before. After six days on the Tasermiut Fjord, we arrived in Klosterdalen safe and sound, except for a few bruises, and just in time for sunset. The mountains in front of us shone in orange light and clouds played around the rugged peaks of Ketil and other, nameless peaks. Nothing beats a moment like this.

Tip: You prefer paddling to hiking? You can organize kayaks at the Tourist Information or at the Blue Ice Cafe in Narsarssuaq.

In the Patagonia of Greenland

Some call the Tasermiut Fjord the "Patagonia of Greenland". Others call the area the "Yosemite of the Arctic." But no matter how one names the place, everyone agrees: these are the most beautiful mountains in all of Greenland.

The Tasermiut Fjord in South Greenland is famous for its rugged mountains and is popular with mountaineers, hikers and kayakers alike. Besides the mountains, snowfields on the mountain flanks, glaciers, wild rivers and low-hanging clouds characterize the image of the fjord. If you go hiking here, you will experience firsthand how green Greenland is.

The " Big Walls" on the Tasermiut Fjord include Ulamertorsuaq (1,858 meters, the Arctic version of El Capitan in Yosemite), Nalumasortoq (2,054 meters, shaped like an open book) and finally the huge granite pyramid of Ketil (2,010 meters). At the end of the fjord rises another great wall: the Tasermiut glacier, 1,400 meters high and three kilometers wide.

Hiking routes at the Tasermiut Fjord

There are several "recommended routes" from Tasiusaq to Klosterdalen, which are listed in the hiking map South Greenland Tasermiut fjorden - Nanortalik 1:100.000 . The routes run along the fjord shore or through the river valleys Qinnguadalen, Tupaassat and Klosterdalen. These are not hiking trails or paths. And honestly, at least on the fjord shore, the recommendation of the map is completely useless. You have to find your own way there. Maybe it is different in the river valleys. Only at the very beginning, near Tasermiut, there is a gravel road and paths or sheep trails. Otherwise it is pathless terrain: Meadows, blueberry scrub, marsh, willow bushes and dwarf birch trees. Sections lead along the shore, which is sometimes littered with larger rocks. Climbing is the order of the day. It becomes easier at low tide (tide table Nanortalik). However, in addition to the recommended routes, the hiking map gives other helpful information on its reverse side about hiking, kayaking, climbing, fishing as well as about nature and behavior in nature at Tasermiut Fjord. Worth reading and important to know!

What is missing in the map: the bridges over two glacial rivers are not shown. One is over the Kuussuaq river and the other is over the river between Ulamertorsuaq and Ketil mountains.

Hiking at Tasermiut Fjord and Klosterdalen in South Greenland

Day 1: Boat transfer and hike from Saputit to the Kuussuaq River.

Shortly after departure of our boat to Saputit we threw our plan A overboard and decided instead for the shorter hiking route along the eastern shore of Tasermiut Fjord: only about 32 kilometers instead of the big loop through the river valleys Qinnguadalen, Tupaassat and Klosterdalen with about 65 kilometers. With a shorter route we would be more flexible to the rain announced for the whole coming week and could simply wait in the tent for better weather. 

For the boat transfer to the start of the Hiking Tour at the Tasermiut Fjord , it is best to contact Serano Boat Tours via Facebook Messenger. We got a transfer for the next day.

Rain, rain, rain, rain, rain, rain....

We waited for the rain in the tent sooner than we would have liked. We barely set up our tent after our first 7.5 kilometers when it started to rain. Eleven hours of heavy rain, wind and even a small thunderstorm banished us to the tent until noon the following day. The meadow was soon flooded and the raindrops pressed through both tent walls. The water also penetrated the tent floor in some places. But there's always something positive: The cooking pot that I had left in my vestibule overnight was filled to the brim with rainwater for the breakfast coffee in the morning. Fortunately, I had covered my backpack after the first shower in the vestibule to protect it from the rain. However, my boots got a little soaked at the beginning.

Thunderstorms are extremely rare in Greenland. Luckily it stayed far away, otherwise we would have had to come up with something. One is not safe in a tent during thunderstorms. More about safety when camping during thunderstorms can be found here.

Info about the Route

Length: By boat: about 32 kilometers (about 45 min); on land: about 7.5 kilometers. Alternatively, you can be dropped off in Tasiusaq. The pretty village of 25 inhabitants has a small supermarket and you can rent the cottage from Serano. Your hiking distance will be about 5 kilometers longer.

Camp 1: On the northern bank of the Kuussuaq River is a large open meadow for camping. The meadow is marked as a suitable camp in the hiking map. However, sheep have also taken a liking to the meadow, which is why it is littered with droppings. There is a garbage can and a fireplace.

Trail: Initially gravel trail, passing two sheep farms; later trail (sheep trails); several fences have to be crossed either at the right place to open or at the designated overclimbing points; a bridge leads over the Kuussuaq River, fording is not necessary (would not have been possible with the water level we found)!

Drinking water: From the river Kuussuaq next to the camp. Because of the omnipresent sheep droppings, disinfect the water if necessary, e.g. with Mikropur Forte tablets*. For us it worked without.

Day 2: Boat transfer and setup at Camp 2

When we dared to leave the tent the following day around noon, Christian was standing in front of us. He had come with two Norwegian guests for fishing. After a short chat he offered us a boat ride to the next camp. At first I said no, after all we had come here for hiking. It should still be about 15 kilometers that day. But in the end my inner pig and my wet trekking boots won out. We quickly packed up, climbed into the boat and were at the camp after a bumpy twenty minutes. During the trip, even the weather cleared up a bit. As we approached the camp, we couldn't believe our eyes: two paragliders flew down one of the mountains with their colorful parachutes.

Actually, we thought we wouldn't meet anyone during our hike. But as soon as we arrived, Luc showed up. "Do you like to join us and have a cup of tea with me and my friends? " - Sure! His friends were climbers from France and Belgium. They had been here in camp for three weeks, climbing new routes. Under their tarp next to a big rock it looked really cozy: A table, benches made of stones, a big cooking pot and lots of other useful stuff. In the corner even hung a net with collected Lapland tea to dry. In front of the camp Emma held the position, a stone woman with hair made of seaweed.

In the evening, the cloud cover broke even further and revealed the view of the mountains. The panorama was indescribably beautiful. We stood there in awe until the clouds took over the mountains again.

Info about the Route

Length: in the boat: about 17 kilometers (about 20 min)

Camp 2: On both banks of the river between the mountains Ketil and Ulamertorsuaq are open meadows for camping. These are not marked on the trail map.

Specifics: A suspension bridge spans the river. Note: In September 2025, I learned that the bridge had been destroyed.

Drinking water: from the big river next to the camp

Days 3 and 4: Short hikes from Camp 2.

We stayed at the camp for three nights. The weather did not encourage further walking and my ankle was painfully swollen in the evening. It must have happened during the bumpy boat ride. I didn't twist my ankle and an overload from sitting in the tent and expecting the rain stopping was also unlikely... Instead of hiking further towards Klosterdalen, we did two shorter hikes in the area with light packs.

The first hike took us at first over the suspension bridge and then parallel to the shore towards the south. There was a trail that was easy to walk. We followed this to the next glacial river and then a bit inland on sheep trails.

On the way we kept looking for musk oxen. But as we learned afterwards, they should only be found on the western shore of the Tasermiut Fjord. Instead we enjoyed smaller companions: curious birds that came closer and often accompanied us for a while. As soon as we sat down and took a break they squatted on the neighboring rocks and didn't seem to be shy of us at all.

The next day we followed the path upstream from our camp until it got lost in the dense brush. Since the brush was still wet from the rain, my boots quickly got wet again. While walking through, I scraped the water from the plant parts, which then ran down my legs to my shoes.

Day 5: Here we go: departure towards Klosterdalen

We planned our departure for the following day, according to the weather forecast of our Garmin inReach Mini 2*the sun should shine. Then we would still have two and a half days time, until Serano picks us up with the boat in Klosterdalen. The eight-kilometer distance we should easily manage. And when we are in Klosterdalen, we could do some small explorations there. At least that's what we thought... it turned out differently.

We were quickly proven wrong: For the 8 kilometers we needed no less than two days with one seven and one 10 hours of hiking (including breaks). Swamps, shrubs, willow bushes and huge dwarf birches made every meter a small fight. But everything started quite relaxed. In sunshine and a light breeze, the first few hundred meters were along a path and then along the shore. Then the rocks got bigger and the shore steeper, so we had to swerve uphill. At first we thought the dense bushes were only there in some patches and could be easily bypassed. But eventually it became more and more dense and there was no other option but to go across. Around four o'clock in the afternoon we had enough. Next to a small stream we set up camp and unpacked the whiskey bottle as a reward.

A few words about safety: be aware that you can break your ankle at any moment while hiking through the birch thicket. Tightly laced trekking boots category BC are indispensable. Train your balance with a heavy backpack on your back: squats on one leg, lunges, etc. Have your first aid kit handy so that you can quickly apply a (pressure) bandage if necessary. Practice this beforehand! Allow enough time to sit out any rain in the tent and not have to rush in the difficult terrain. It is not a good idea to run under time pressure. And so that you can still enjoy the great scenery in Klosterdalen at the end: wear sunglasses and protect your eyes from stinging branches. Und damit ihr am Ende noch was von der tollen Landschaft in Klosterdalen habt: tragt eine Sonnenbrille und schützt eure Augen vor stechenden Zweigen.

Info about the Route

Length: approx. 7 kilometers

Walking time incl. breaks: approx. 7 hours

Camp 3: on the way, next to a small stream

Trail: pathless terrain: initially banks, then marsh, shrubs, willow bushes and dwarf birch trees

Specifics: There are smaller mountain streams to cross, which is mostly possible with stepping stones, a jump or just walking through. Only one stream we had to ford, but this was very easy.

Drinking water: on the way from numerous mountain streams

Day 6: Through the wilderness to Klosterdalen

The further we got towards Klosterdalen, the denser the wilderness became. I had read in blog articles about Klosterdalen that it goes in places only with 1 km/h. But that it will be here on the fjord shore a good 70% of the way so, I had not thought. (In retrospect, however, it is clear that it will be so, because after all you stay on the coast at the same altitude with similar conditions). The "recommended route" marked on the trail map was not apparent. Worried about missing a trail or open terrain, I sent my drone into the air. We then used the photos to pick the best route. Mostly it was from rock to rock, because there the vegetation was not quite so dense. From time to time we could walk on the shore, or climb over rocks. Only the last kilometer along the shore let us relax a bit.

At sunset we were standing at the camp in Klosterdalen. The last rays of the sun colored Ketil and Co. in warm orange. What a great reward for what was probably the most difficult hike I've done so far.

In the afternoon the wind increased more and more. In the evening it was so stormy at our camp that I took extra care to peg down our tent. But even with wind, the view of the mountains was simply fantastic. We put on another layer of clothing and enjoyed the view. Shortly after the sun disappeared behind the mountains, the wind also died down. But with the calm came the mosquitoes.

The mosquitoes of Klosterdalen

Some of the midges became part of our dinner: mashed potatoes with soaked dried vegetables. There were the small mosquitoes, similar to midges in Scotland, and also larger mosquitoes. Klosterdalen had significantly more than the other camps. But for me it was still ok without a mosquito net over my head. Most mosquitoes hung around my partner, who then also pulled a net over his head. From the mosquito spray Deet, which we used, the mosquitoes were rather unimpressed. It is best to check in Nanortalik, that you get a regional mosquito spray, which is adapted to the mosquitoes here.

Info about the Route

Length: 4 kilometers

Walking time incl. breaks: 10 hours

Camp 4: Klosterdalen, south of the river. The camp is marked on the trail map.

Trail: Pathless terrain: swamp, shrubs, willow bushes and dwarf birch trees. At the end shore with rocks.

Specifics: The further you hike into the fjord, the denser the vegetation becomes. No significant stream crossings.

Drinking water: on the way from numerous mountain streams; from the river Uiluii Kuua next to the camp.

Day 7: Boat transfer Klosterdalen - Tasiusaq - Nanortalik

The next day our boat came two hours earlier than planned - "We expect strong wind in the afternoon and we could not sail then - so we came earlier" said the captain. Thirty minutes later we were in the boat, the water was smooth as glass and the monastery ruins of Klosterdalen we will probably see another time.

How did Serano know we were already at the meeting place? I had given him the Internet address of my Garmin inReach. The tracking function recorded our location every half hour so he could trace our route on the map.

By the way, here, in the remote valley, there was an Augustinian monastery in the 10th century - hence the name Klosterdalen. Today there are only a few ruins left, but they are said to be barely recognizable. Unfortunately, we were not able to look for them due to time constraints.

Stopover in Tasiusaq

To Nanortalik it is about 70 kilometers by boat, about 1.5 hours drive. The closer we came to the mouth of the fjord, the higher the waves and the stronger the wind. White foam crowns stretched over the breaking waves and water splashed into our little nutshell. Greenland showed us again with ease how small and vulnerable we are. How easily one of the bigger waves combined with a gust of wind could have knocked over our little boat. We turned away and let ourselves drift with the wind back to the small town of Tasiusaq.

Later in the afternoon, the wind was supposed to weaken again. One just had to wait a bit. The blue wooden house of Serano invited us to stay with a warm stove and coffee (you can also rent the house). In the small supermarket of the village of 25 inhabitants we also get everything for a delicious lunch (card payment possible).

Around five o'clock in the afternoon we finally set off and were soon back in Nanortalik. After our hiking tour at the Tasermiut Fjord we were looking forward to a warm shower. On the way to the hotel we stopped briefly at the supermarket and bought a few treats for the evening.

Sad story: All inhabitants of the village Tasiusaq starved to death about 140 years ago. Only in the 1930s the village was repopulated by descendants and family members of the original inhabitants.

Some additional info at the end

• Buy the hiking map South Greenland Tasermiut fjorden - Nanortalik 1:100.000 and read the information on the back.
• A lot more information can be found in "The Ultimate Greenland Hiking Guide" from visitgreenland.gl
• Plan one or two buffer days for your hike and take extra food with you. The boat cannot come to pick you up in all weather conditions.
• There is no cell phone reception. Take either a satellite phone or, for example, a Garmin inReach and familiarize yourself with its operation beforehand.
• You are in polar bear country. Check with the tourist information office and your boat guide for any sightings and reschedule if necessary. More info on what to do during polar bear encounters.
• “Leave no Trace!” - better read again...

How to get to Tasermiut Fjord?

Tasermiut Fjort in South Greenland is relatively easy to reach, at least for Greenlandic conditions. You can fly from Reykjavik to Narsarsuaq. From there you have the choice: either in the expensive helicopter of Air Greenland to Nanortalik or by boat. Since we were already halfway there (Narsaq), we continued our journey by boat.

You can book the boat trip at Discoline . The trip is often done with the boats from the Blue Ice Cafe. Blue Ice Cafe.

From Nanortalik you need a charter boat that takes you to Tasermiut Fjord. We asked for help at the tourist information office. There we got the contact to Serano Boat Tours and could arrange a transfer for the next day. The cost of the transfer there and back was 700 euros (as of 2022).

Book Recommendations for Greenland

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Equipment

Below you can see the equipment we took with us to our hiking tour at Tasermiut Fjord. Most of it worked well. Only my Goretex boots were no longer waterproof after four years of frequent use (for whatever reason). I also wished our tent would have let less rain through. 1500 mm water column for the outer tent and 1800 mm for the floor were a bit low. But in return the tent was light and stood reliably even in strong winds.

Have you ever been to Greenland? Maybe even for a hiking tour at the Tasermiut Fjord? How did you like it? Do you have any questions about my article? If yes, please write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

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Recommendations for further Reading

Want to know more about travelling in Greenland? Then click here for my article about my Hike to the Ice Cap at Eqi Glacier or about my Winter Trip to East Greenland.

Der Beitrag Die Entdeckung der Langsamkeit – Hiking am Tasermiut Fjord erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

San Juan Islands, Washington State, USA. Paddling with Orcas! What a dreamlike imagination! In the Salish Sea, on the northwest coast of the USA this dream could come true. We put our luck to the test and went on a three-day paddling trip in the realm of the orcas. In the following article I will tell you about our experiences and share my most memorable impressions with you. Furthermore, you will get many practical tips for your Kayak Tour at the Orcas of the San Juan Islands.

Non-solicited, unpaid advertising. This article contains affiliate links*, marked with an asterisk.

What to expect in this Article

The San Juan Islands in the Salish Sea
Details of our Kayak Tour at the Orcas of the San Juan Islands
Highlights of our Kayak Tour Kayak Tours
Day by Day - the Route of our Kayak Tour at the Orcas of San Juan Island San Juan Island
How to get to the San Juan Islands
Packing list for your Kayak Tour

The San Juan Islands in the Salish Sea

The San Juan Islands are a group of several hundred islands in the Salish Sea off the coast of Washington State. Most of them are uninhabited, some of them are very tiny. San Juan is also the name of one of the largest islands in the archipelago. The main town of San Juan is Friday Harbor. This is where the ferry from Anacortes arrives, where most of the whale watching trips start, and where we meet for our three-day kayak tour with San Juan Kayak Expeditions.

The San Juan Islands are shielded from the waves and storms of the open Pacific Ocean by elongated Vancouver Island to the northwest. On the land side, they are framed by the high mountains of the Olympic Mountains, the Cascade Range and the British Columbia Coast Range.

Due to the location of the islands in the rain shadow of the Olympic Mountains, dry, sunny weather is predominant here. This is also the reason why the San Juan Islands are often called the Banana Belt. Even though no bananas grow here at all. But due to the protected location and the rich wildlife, the San Juan Islands are best suited for a kayak tour of several days.

Details of our Kayak Tour at the Orcas of the San Juan Islands

Duration: Our tour lasted three days. One, two, four or five day tours are also available.
Travel period: May through September
Orcas: The best chances to see orcas during a kayak tour at the San Juan Islands are in July and August, because that's when Southern Resident orcas frequent the Salish Sea. Transient orcas, on the other hand, can be seen year-round.
Distances: 25 miles total (10 miles, 9 miles, 6 miles).
Difficulty: You should have some paddling experience and you should be able to paddle for extended periods of time. Longer crossings are required in two places.
Costs: three day trip for $679.00 per person (2021)

Highlights of our Kayak Tour

Orcas

The highlight of every kayak tour in the Salish Sea is without a doubt the sighting of orcas or other whales. But such encounters are not predictable and you need a lot of luck. Unfortunately, we did not see any orcas during our paddle tour. However, when I was out later with a whale watching boat, I was able to observe orcas right on the shores where we paddled along.

Do you want to know more about the orcas at the Sun Juan Islands? Then check out my article about the Southern Resident Orcas on my photo website.

Wildlife

The Salish Sea is famous for its orcas. But of course there are many other animals that make the region an Eldorado for wildlife viewing. During our paddle tour we could observe many harbor seals and bald eagles. In addition to various gulls, we also saw kingfishers, cormorants, Canada geese, ravens and a peregrine falcon. Also of particular interest were the imported bighorn sheep, sitka deer and prickly horned antelope on Spiden Island. More about this later.

There are also chances to see the following species: Dall's and harbor porpoises, humpback whales, minke whales, gray whales, elephant seals, Steller's and California sea lions, river otters, mink, raccoons, foxes, as well as ospreys and many other bird species.

Landscape

In addition to animal observations, there are many other impressive experiences that I will remember for a long time. First of all, there is the scenic beauty of the islands with their rugged coasts and secluded bays. The campsites are idyllic and the sunsets over the neighboring islands are a dream.

I just love it when I am so close to the water in a kayak. Then I feel especially connected to nature. When I can also make out the kelp forest and purple starfish below me, it's time for a little paddle break. At some places, however, it is also worthwhile to let your gaze wander into the distance. If the weather is clear, you can see the ice-covered peak of Mt. Baker (3286 m) from the kayak .

Night Paddling with Bioluminescence

The highlight of the day is hidden in the dark: night paddling with bioluminescence. No, actually this are two highlights: First, paddling at night (when do you ever do that?) and then bioluminescence. That was really something special. I'll write more about it later and you'll also learn which little critters are responsible for it.

Day by Day - the Route of our Kayak Tour at the Orcas of San Juan Island

The first Day of Paddling

Even though I've limited myself to the bare essentials, my luggage seems like way too much, as usual. With waterproof bags, dangling Nalgene bottles and a bundle of rain gear in my arms, I greet the other fellow paddlers. After loading all the luggage into the van, we head for Griffin Bay. Here our kayaks are waiting for us: four tandem kayaks and one for our guide Jury.

First we listen to Jury's detailed briefing. Among other things, we learn how to climb back into the boat after a capsize on the open water. I look out at the water suspiciously, wondering how quickly this might happen. Fortunately, the water is relatively calm, the sun is shining and it's warm. Wonderful paddling weather, who thinks about capsizing? What I don't know yet: the water will change and become a bit choppy on the longer crossings.

After everything is packed and life jackets and spray blankets are put on, we are ready to go. To warm up, we paddle a short distance to Turn Island and take a lunch break. Chopped vegetables, hummus, bars and salted nuts. Jury also shows us our route for today on the map. We will paddle about 10 miles to our camp on Jones Island. Much of the route will take us along the Shaw Island shoreline. Our next stop is Yellow Island. A trail runs once around the small island and we are glad to be able to move our legs a bit.

It is not far to our camp on Jones Island. After setting up the tents and having a delicious dinner, we take a short hike to the opposite side of the island. Here we end the evening with a sunset and a sip of wine.

We were not the only paddlers on the water. But I have to say: we had the most beautiful boats. Yellow, orange, green, blue, and neon yellow. Each tandem kayak was a different color, roomy, and very docile to paddle. We also received lightweight paddles from Werner (I have one of these for my kayak at home), life jackets, splash guards, seat cushions, bilge pump, waterproof bags, and a tent. On the way, large water canisters always provided enough drinking water and in the evening Jury spoiled us with delicious hot food. Except for a few granola bars or snacks for the road, we didn't have to worry about food. And even for me as a vegan was taken care of. Simply fantastic and sooo delicious.

Tip: Little treasures* that make paddler's life easier:Tip: Small treasures* that make life easier for paddlers:

The second Day of Paddling

The next morning we wait for the right start time. This depends on the tides. After all, we don't want to have to paddle against the current. So we have a very relaxed start into the day and first of all an extensive breakfast. After packing, we even have time to circle the west side of Jones Island on a narrow trail.

But after the relaxed start soon comes the challenge of the day: the crossing to Spieden Island. The crossing is about five kilometers over open water. But on the second day of the paddle tour we are almost professionals and master this challenge with flying colors.

Spieden Island was bought in 1997 by James Jannard, the founder and main shareholder of Oakley. It is located about a mile north of San Juan Island and separated from it by the Spieden Channel. The north side of the island is densely forested, while the south side is a barren open landscape. We paddle along the north side. In the tall trees we spot several bald eagles. They seem to love the island. On the other side of the island, which we won't see until the next day, live bighorn sheep, sitka deer and prickly horn antelope. How did these exotic animals get to the island? They were imported in the 1970s and 1980s for hunting. There was a hunting lodge, airstrip and hangar. But due to environmental concerns, as well as the risk that errant shots could injure other watermen, hunting operations were discontinued. The imported animals remained on the island, surviving and reproducing.

We paddle along the pristine north side of Spieden Island and then cross over to Cactus Island and Johns Island. We finally set up camp at the Kristiansen Campground on Stuart Island. After settling in and having a delicious vegetable curry, we launch our kayaks into the water again. Our destination is the . Turn Point LighthouseFrom here you can watch the sunset .

But the real highlight of the evening awaits in the dark of night: Night Paddling with Bioluminescence. The darker it is, the better the blue glow of the plankton can be seen. We turn off our headlamps. With every paddle stroke it glows next to me. The bow wave of our kayak is also surrounded by a blue glow. It is so beautiful to see that I would have loved to continue paddling deep into the night. But unfortunately the distance to our camp is not that far. We can already hear the waves rolling in the bay towards the shore and the bottom of our kayak touching the gravel.

What is Bioluminescence?

This mysterious blue-green light comes from billions of microscopic algae that are found here in particularly high concentrations. When they are mechanically stimulated by waves, by a paddle, or while swimming, they briefly light up. The algae responsible for this are called dinoflagellates. Weltweit werden 2400 Arten unterschieden. Aber nur einige von ihnen sind zur Biolumineszenz fähig, wie beispielsweise “Noctiluca miliaris” was auf deutsch “Nachtlaternchen” bedeutet. Wie bei fast allen Arten der Biolumineszenz ist das Leuchten auf eine chemische Reaktion von Luciferin mit dem Enzym Luciferase zurückzuführen.

Experiments have shown that species capable of bioluminescence are less likely to become prey. Presumably, predators are deterred by the luminescence. Other theories suggest that the glow illuminates other organisms, which the predator then grabs instead.

The third Paddling Day

Today we paddle from our camp on Stuart Island back to Spieden Islandwhich we circle on the west side. This puts us in a good position to observe the exotic bighorn sheep, sitka deer and prickly horn antelope that live here. On the open south side of the island these animals can be seen very well. We paddle along the shore to about the height of Sentinel Island. Here we prepare ourselves mentally for the crossing of the Spieden Channel. This time even with some wind and waves. We stay close together as a group and paddle briskly across the channel. While I concentrate on the waves and the paddle movement, my eyes search the water surface not less concentrated for Orcas. But the whales still don't want to show themselves. Instead, a seal appears diagonally in front of us and looks at us with its big eyes.

Our next destination is Posey Island, the second smallest state park in America. Perfect for a quick stop and delicious burritos for lunch. The camp is idyllic. Those who stay here have an island almost to themselves (or their group). But if you want to camp here, you have to make a reservation in advance, like at almost all state parks.

We continue along the east side of Henry Island. To our left is San Juan Island with picturesque bays and some luxurious estates. I enjoy our las stretch on the water and try to soak up as much of this beautiful stretch as possible. Finally we paddle into Westcott Bay where we bring our kayaks ashore. Here the van with trailer of San Juan Kayak Expeditions is already waiting for us.

We unpack our stuff from our green kayak. At this moment I regret that I did not book the five-day tour. I would have loved to paddle even further.

How to get to the San Juan Islands

Friday Harbor, the main town of San Juan Island, is accessible by air or sea.

Tip: It is best to arrive one day before the start of the kayak tour. This is much less stressful. Plus, you may have an opportunity for a first whale watching tour or land-based orca watching at Lime Klin State Park.

By ferry:

Washington State Ferries run daily from Anacortes to Friday Harbor. If you are traveling by car, make a reservation in advance. You pay when you check in. If you want to cross without a car, you don't need a reservation. You don't really need a car in Friday Harbor, because many things can be reached on foot.

We stayed in Friday Harbor for a few days before and after the kayak tour. The only thing we needed a car for was the whale watching tour from Mayas Legacy. This starts in Mitchell Bay in the northwest of the island. Also, we always went to the west coast of San Juan for picnics in the evenings. This is where you get the most amazing sunsets as well as good chances of orca sightings from land.

During the kayak tour we could leave our car in the parking lot of our hotel, the Orcas Inn. If you want to leave your car in Anacortes, you can do so for a fee in the night parking lot of the Anacortes terminal.

By plane:

Friday Harbour Sea Planes offers several seaplane flights daily. Flights by regular aircraft are also offered by San Juan Airlines, Point to Point Air, and Kenmore Air. However, I think the ferry is a better choice.

Packing list for your Kayak Tour

In addition to the kayaks and paddles, life jackets, splash guards, seat cushions, bilge pump, waterproof bags and a tent are provided by the organizer.

• Sleeping bag and sleeping mat
• Head lamp
• Clothing in several layers (quick-drying material)
• Rain jacket and rain trousers    
• Outside the high summer: cap, scarf, gloves.
• Cup, plate, bowl, cutlery
• Drinking bottle, e.g. Nalgene (at least one 1-liter bottle for refilling, better two)
• Snacks for the trip
• Personal hygiene utensils
• Water sandals, if necessary socks for the boat
• Sneakers for the camp
• Binoculars and camera
• Maybe a power bank or solar panel
• Sun cream, sun hat and sun glasses

Book Recommendations for Kayak Enthusiasts

Looking for more great paddling destinations or want to refine your paddling technique? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Have you ever been on a kayak tour for several days and seen orcas or other whales? Where was it? Do you have any questions about my article? If yes, then write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you like paddling as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about a Paddling tour in Patagonia or about a Kayak Tour in the Swedish Archipelago.

Der Beitrag Kajaktour bei den Orcas der San Juan Islands erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links.

In this article you will find a lot of practical information for a road trip through Svaneti in Georgia:

The Classic - Lada Niva with Roof Tent as Rental Car
Die Route “Svaneti Loop” – von Kutaissi durch Swanetien
Places of Interest on our Road Trip in Svaneti
Tips for Campsites for the Night
Shopping, Food, Money and Refueling
Condition of the Roads on the Svaneti Loop
Conclusion - is the Svaneti Loop worth it?

The Classic - Lada Niva with Roof Tent as Rental Car

The best way to explore Svaneti is on a road trip with your own 4×4 vehicle. Then you can choose your route and travel pace according to your wishes. If you travel with a camper or a roof tent, you can spend the night where it is most beautiful. What could be better for such a tour than a Lada Niva with roof tent? The small, handy Lada Niva is a classic from Russia. It has been produced in the Russian city of Togliatti since 1976 and its simple technology makes it almost indestructible. It is also an extremely popular vehicle in Georgia, you can see it on every corner.

Another classic from Russia is the UAZ Buchanka. Some also call it "toast bread". Not without reason. It doesn't take much imagination to see the resemblance. But you don't see the UAZ in Georgia quite as often as the Lada Niva.

Where does one find such a car?

Wondering where you can rent one of those ready-to-go Lada's? Have a look at Overlando.Here you can choose between Lada Niva, UAZ Buchanka or Toyota Land Cruiser. Tbilisi and Kutaisi are offered as pick-up locations.

Die Route “Svaneti Loop” – von Kutaissi durch Swanetien

Svaneti is located in the north of Georgia, near the Russian border. The wild mountainous landscape of the Great Caucasus attracts many nature and hiking lovers every year. Besides, Svaneti is famous for its charming mountain villages with their special architecture and fortified towers. In particular, the village of Ushguli, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is often depicted in pictures as well as in travel brochures. 

But the romantic places and colorful mountain meadows in summer look different in winter: up to six months a year Ushguli is cut off from the rest of the world. Heavy snowfalls, avalanches, heavy rains and landslides are not rare events here. Since the 1980s, many inhabitants have migrated from the villages. Today, about 23,600 people live in Svanetia.

The Svaneti Loop is a particularly scenic, but also challenging route. It leads through the mountainous region from Mestia via Ushguli to Sasaschi. If you include the journey to and from Kutaisi, the route covers about 445 kilometers.

The individual sections of our Lada Niva road trip in Svaneti:

• Kutaisi - Mestia: 221 to 251 kilometers (about 5-6 hours), depending on the route chosen.
• Mestia - Ushguli: 46,5 kilometers (about 2-3 hours)
• Ushguli - Zagari Pass - Sasaschi: 46 kilometers (about 3 hours)
• Sasaschi - Lentechi: 28 kilometers (about 45 minutes)
• Lentechi - Kutaisi: 90 kilometers (about 2 hours)

Places of Interest on our Road Trip in Svaneti

The first three destinations on our road trip are not in Svaneti. But they are worthwhile stops on the way from Kutaisi to Mestia. It would be too bad to miss them.

Zqaltubo - Thermal Spa with Lost Places

Zqaltubo (Tskaltubo) is a thermal resort about 15 kilometers northwest of Kutaisi. Once Zqaltubo was one of the most important health resorts of the Soviet Union. Numerous sanatoriums offered cures for rheumatism and other joint diseases using the slightly radioactive water. In order to maintain the socialist work force, the Soviet spa policy promoted the development of the spa. Thus, numerous spa hotels were built in the style of neo-classicism and later in the style of classical Soviet modernism. However, the sanatoriums were not only for physical recreation. Cultural education and ideological training were also of great importance.

However, after the collapse of the Soviet Union and the beginning of the war, fewer and fewer guests came. The spa hotels remained empty and fell into disrepair. Some of the sanatoriums became the new homes for internally displaced persons (IDPs) instead.

Today, Zqaltubo is a place that many blogs describe as a great Lost Place. And yes, it is true that there are many Lost Places. But the town is making efforts to become an attractive resort again. For example, investors have already been found for the Iveria and Meshakhtiori sanatoriums. The two sanatoriums are fenced in and can only be seen over the fence. On the other hand, we were able to take a closer look at bathhouse 8 in the spa park. We visited the other sanatoriums from the Soviet era only from the outside. Their architecture is beautiful and I would have loved to go inside. But I didn't want to intrude too much on the privacy of the people who have made their homes here in the abandoned hotels.

Today, the Tsqaltubo SPA Resort is the only Soviet-era spa hotel still operating as such. Bathhouse 6 in the central spa park also still offers medical treatments.

Prometheus Cave

Prometheus Cave is only about a 10-minute drive north of Zqaltubo. If you are in the area, you should not miss a visit to the impressive stalactite cave. You can visit the 1.8 km long cave during a one hour guided tour. For a small extra price, you can even leave the cave at the end of the tour in a boat on the underground river Kumi.

Martvili Canyon

Martvili Canyon is also a worthwhile destination on the road trip to Svaneti. You can explore the canyon on a 700 meter long hiking trail and look down on the water from two bridges and several viewing platforms. The highlight of Martvili Canyon, however, is the boat ride. Equipped with a life jacket and a paddle, the boat goes about 300 meters along the Abasha River. Here, the canyon walls seem a bit steeper and the river with its overgrown banks a bit more enchanted.

Check out my separate article about Martvili Canyon to find out more about it.

Mestia Village Walk

Mestia is the main village in Svaneti region and has about 9300 inhabitants. The village is located at an altitude of about 1500 meters. It is the starting point of various day hikes or the popular multi-day trekking tour to Ushguli. Mestia is the tourist center of Svaneti and easily accessible. Between 2009 and 2012 the village was extensively modernized. In the process, many old houses, which were still built in the original Svanetian style, were demolished. In their place now stand chalets, reminiscent of the Swiss mountains.

Many criticize that Mestia has lost its Swanetian character due to the renovation measures and new buildings. In some parts, especially in the city center, this may be true. But there are still side streets in Mestia where everything is as it used to be. The town is particularly atmospheric when the numerous fortified towers are beautifully illuminated in the evening.

What is there to see in the city? Near the entrance to the town is the Ethnographic Museum. In the center of town you can climb the Kergiani fortified tower and walk through the winding streets of Lagami.

Tip: Mestia is the last place where you can get cash and gas for your car on the Svaneti Loop. It is best to buy some provisions, because in Ushguli there are only the most necessary things.

Hike to the Chalaati Glacier near Mestia

On this hike you can get very close to the ice masses of the Chalaati Glacier. The tongue of the mighty glacier reaches down to 1890 meters at this point and can be easily hiked during a half-day excursion. The starting point is the suspension bridge 9 kilometers north of Mestia. The trail first leads through an enchanting coniferous forest. Then it goes past the raging river, where the meltwater of the Chalaati flows off. Later, the path winds through sparse birch forest and over a boulder field. Surefootedness is required at the end. Just before the ice tongue there are many larger boulders where you can sit comfortably and have a picnic.

Length: 4.3 kilometers
Duration: approx. 2 hours plus breaks and photo stops
Height difference: 240 meters

You are planning a road trip?

Travel Guide Book – Georgia – Caucasus*

This book by OunTravela invites you to explore the wildest corners of Georgia. Along 24 routes you will discover picturesque landscapes, rugged mountains, monasteries, fortresses, and centuries-old fortified towers. In addition to detailed descriptions of the 4x4 routes, you will find a wealth of additional information about the country and its people as well as tips for your planning. The latter range from suggestions for overnight campsites to rental companies of expedition-ready 4x4 vehicles and worthwhile photo spots. You can also purchase a map and GPS tracks for navigation.

Tower of Love - Caucasian Defense Towers and the Blood Revenge

It's usually the tragic stories that stick. This is also the case here: The Tower of Love was the setting for a tragic Romeo and Juliet story.The two lovers were not allowed to marry, whereupon he committed suicide. The left girl retreated to the tower and mourned her beloved. She is said to have stayed there for the rest of her life.

You can visit the tower and also climb inside. The ladders are steep and narrow, but it is a great opportunity to see such a classic Caucasian fortified tower from the inside.

The medieval Caucasian defense towers are very common in Svaneti, especially in Mestia and Ushguli and the surrounding mountain villages. Sometimes each family unit or even each family has its own defense tower, which was visited as a defensive structure in case of conflicts, feuds or threatening blood revenge. The blood revenge works according to the principle: "what you do to me, I will do to you". So murder for murder or also murder for injury of the honor. Often the only rescue was the defense tower, where the endangered person locked himself up and let his family take care of him.  

Church of Kala "Lagurka" - Steeply up to the Place of Pilgrimage

The Kala Church of Saints Cyricus and Julitta is the most important Christian sanctuary in the Svanetian region. The medieval church is also known by the name Lagurka.

But if you want to visit the important sanctuary near the village of Khe, you first have to work for it: it's a steep climb of about 110 meters up to 1875 meters. After about 30 minutes you will reach the small church and get a bit closer to heaven. And from up here you also have a heavenly view of the surrounding mountains.

The small hall church was built at the end of the 10th or beginning of the 12th century and is an important example of Georgian medieval monumental art. Inside it is decorated with frescoes by Tevdore from 1111 and 1112. Besides, there are many other church objects from different periods, such as manuscripts, crosses and icons.

Ushguli Village Walk with Fortified Towers and Museums

Ushguli is probably the most famous mountain village in Svanetia. The village is characterized by fortified towers, traditional Svanetian architecture, narrow bumpy streets and the white peak of the Shchara glacier (5201 m). You feel as if you are immersed in a time long gone. And because of that, the place is also listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1996.

Facts about Ushguli:
Elevation: about 2150 m
Distance from Mestia: 44 kilometers
Population: about 200  

The tranquil mountain village is inhabited only by about 70 to 80 families all year round. Anyone who does not leave Ushguli in the fall is snowed in there for the winter. The road to Mestia does not open again until next spring. In summer, the number of inhabitants doubles. In addition, there are n many tourists, because Ushguli is a popular destination for nature lovers and hikers. There are numerous inns where you can stay overnight, eat, and organize mountain guides and horseback rides.

How to get to Ushguli?

We drove from Mestia to Ushguli as self-drivers with our rented Lada Niva. However, many visitors hire a driver in Mestia and are dropped off and picked up. This is a practical solution for those who do not have a four-wheel drive vehicle or for whom the mountain road is too narrow.

Another option is to hike from Mestia to Ushguli. The five-day tour is the most popular multi-day hike in Georgia. You can return from Ushguli with a driver, which you can easily arrange at a local inn.

What else is there to see in Ushguli besides breathtaking nature and mountain panoramas?

The many fortified towers and the beautiful Swanetian architecture can best be explored during a short walk through the village. Let yourself drift and you will discover many exciting details. Don't miss the Ethnographic Museum and the Museum of Maria on the way. From here, I recommend you visit the Lamaria Church on the outskirts of town (don't forget your headscarf). It dates from the 10th century and is decorated inside with medieval frescoes. Back on the main road, the tower of Tamar overlooks all the surrounding buildings. It stands on a small hill. You can climb up a ladder and take a look inside.

With Traildogs to the Shchara Glacier

A really nice hike starting in Ushguli is the tour to the Shchara glacier. With 5.201 meters the Shchara is the highest mountain in Georgia and the third highest in the whole Caucasus. You can already see the glacier from the village of Ushguli in the distance. It is the perfect background for a photo of the historical village with its fortified towers (the light is best in the late afternoon).

To get to the glacier, follow the Enguri River uphill through the river valley. On the way there (about 9 kilometers) you will have the glacier in view the whole time. Super beautiful, especially when the valley is covered with colorful wildflowers in summer. But what makes a good hike even better is good company: Trail dogs! Even before I traveled to Georgia, I heard about the dogs that accompany hikers on the trails. I wished soooo much that some dogs would find us, too. And suddenly they were there! They accompanied us the whole hike. With that they not only earned themselves a good half of our food but also a name. And since they kept us company in the camp after the hike, Mr. Spock and Dali also had dinner and breakfast.

Tip: Take some extra food with you (for the dogs) and pack some cash (for a snack at Alpine Camp if the dogs have devoured all your food).

Here are the facts about the hike:

Start: bridge over the Enguri River just past the monastery.
Length: about 18,4 kilometers
Height difference: about 500 meters
Difficulty: Easy hike over a gravel road. Behind the alpine camp the path becomes narrower and is quite overgrown in places. Only shortly before the glacier a scree slope has to be crossed. Surefootedness is required here. The Pakvlashi stream crosses the path and is either to be crossed or can be bypassed laterally. Later you can return to the gravel path via two small improvised bridges.
Refreshments: At the end of the gravel road the Alpin Camp invites you for a refreshment.

Tip: Horses can be rented in town to take you to the Alpin Camp.

Colorful Mountain Meadows - Hike to Gvinari Pass south of Ushguli

Most people who visit Ushguli hike to the Shchara Glacier. But what actually lies in the opposite direction, south of Ushguli? Here we found the most beautiful wildflower meadow we have seen in Georgia. So many different plants and insects really amazed us. The trail starts south of the village of Murkmeli and goes continuously uphill. It is also the trail to the Gvinari Pass at 2972 meters. We didn't make it all the way to the pass because we made so many photo stops due to the many beautiful plants and we started too late anyway.

The round trip from Murkmeli to the pass and back is about 9 kilometers long with an elevation gain of about 920 meters. On the way you can make a stop at the castle ruins of Ushguli. Since the paths are often narrow and / or somewhat overgrown, a GPS is useful.

Drive from Ushguli over Zagari Pass to Sasaschi

The road from Mestia to Ushguli was already breathtakingly beautiful. But the road up to the 2623 meter high Zagari Pass puts everything in the shade again. Definitely the most beautiful section of our road trip in Swanetia. The unpaved road leads further and further uphill and you feel like in the cinema: mountain panoramas, glaciers, lush meadows. We had to stop again and again on the way to enjoy the view.

After the pass, we descend in several switchbacks and we are quickly back in forested terrain. We follow the river valley of the Zcheniszchali. After the mountain idyll and the absolute seclusion at the pass we now landed on a long construction site. Here the road is being expanded and we had to share the narrow path with excavators, dump trucks and other construction site vehicles. But in return we were rewarded again and again with shorter paved road sections. At some point, the route is then paved throughout and we come through several small villages.

Surprise in the Front Garden - Statue of Stalin near Sasaschi

Georgia is full of surprises. During our road trip in Georgia we saw so many remarkable things, we couldn't stop so fast and so often. Among them were many small details, especially beautiful architecture, lost places, old village entrance signs, monuments and statues. So it was here, on the Svaneti Loop just behind the village of Sasaschi. We didn't believe our eyes when suddenly an oversized statue of Stalin focused on us. It stands fenced in on a private property. The somewhat dilapidated looking building behind it looks tiny compared to the statue.

Incredulous, I grab my camera and look for the best perspective in front of the fence. An UAZ comes by and honks at me. The driver waves at me and gives me a thumbs up. Thumbs up for Stalin? This seems more than strange to me, but it is actually not unusual in Georgia. After all, Stalin was born in Georgia. And many Georgians are proud that one of their countrymen took over the leadership of the Soviet Union.

Tip: Not far from Tbilisi is the city of Gori, where Stalin was born. The Stalin Museum was opened here in 1957 in his honor. Don't expect a detailed rehash of the atrocities the dictator committed during his reign here. It's more like a big cult palace, even souvenirs like coffee mugs, fridge magnets, baseball caps or backgammon games with Stalin's portrait are available here. was opened here in 1957 in his honor. Don't expect a detailed rehash of the atrocities the dictator committed during his reign here. It's more like a big cult palace, even souvenirs like coffee mugs, fridge magnets, baseball caps or backgammon games with Stalin's portrait are available here.

Lentechi - Refueling please!

After the remote mountain villages in Upper Svaneti, Lentechi seemed almost like a big city to us. Here we treated ourselves to the luxury of a spacious hotel room with a hot shower at Hotel Svaneti. We also refueled our Lada for the first time after Mestia.

Lentechi is located in Lower Svaneti and has about 947 inhabitants. Most of them (felt) gathered on Saturday evening on the central square directly in front of our hotel window. Here they were chatting, playing and dancing. However, we did not mingle with the crowds because of the rather high covid numbers in Georgia.  

What is there to see here in Lentechi? First of all, the promenade on the median strip of the main street is something special. To the left and right of the road there are many beautiful metal gates to admire. A statue of a shepherd boy reaching for the stars decorates the central square. At the end of the village, on the central island of the traffic circle, there is a typical stele from the Soviet period. There is also a small local museum a castle and a number of Georgian Orthodox church buildings from the 9th to 11th centuries.

Goodbye, Svaneti!

From Lentechi our road trip continues along a conveniently passable national road through the valley of the Zcheniszqali. The big city of Kutaisi is about 90 kilometers away. However, we continue in the direction of Tbilisi. The capital is about 350 kilometers away. On the route there are several places worth seeing, so we divide the trip into several days. First we visit Kazchi Pillar with the tiny monastery on the rocky peak, then Chiatura with the legendary cable cars and finally the Stalin Museum in Gori.

Tips for Campsites for the Night

In Georgia "wild camping" is allowed. So you don't have to stay at a campsite during your Georgia road trip, but you are allowed to look for your own campsite.

Please note:

• Keep your distance from houses.
• Do not camp on private land or agricultural land.
• Respect nature, wildlife and grazing animals.
• Do not drive cross-country to get to a campsite. Instead, use existing tracks.
• Do not leave trash or food scraps behind.
• Bury your "organic trash" after your morning toilet.

How we found our pitches? We searched the free app Maps.Me for dashed lines that disappeared into nowhere. Most of the time, that's where we found our pitches. Sometimes there were also hints of possible campsites on the map. We also used the app iOverlando. Well, you don't need much space for camping with the small Lada Niva anyway.

Possible sites at Martvili Canyon:

Before the ford on the half-dried riverbed of the Abasha (if the water level of the river allows it and no big rain events are expected in the higher mountains). GPS: 42°28'41.6″N 42°22'46.4″E

Possible pitches at the Svaneti Loop in Mestia:

• At the old Soviet lodge overlooking the town. GPS: 43°03'10.8″N 42°45'32.3″E
• At the river Mestiachala in the direction of Chalaadi glacier. Here you even have a fresh water source nearby.

Possible pitches at Svaneti Loop in Ushguli:

• Campsite behind the monastery. GPS: 42°55'18.2″N 43°01'26.6″E
• On the bank of the Enguri River behind the campsite
• On the bank of the Enguri River in the direction of the Shchara Glacier.

Shopping, Food, Money and Refueling

I always like to do my grocery shopping in the places I visit. That way, the locals also get something out of my stay. However, the supply in Mestia and Ushguli is very limited. If you don't want to do without certain products, it's best to buy them in advance in a larger supermarket in Kutaisi.

You can buy fruits, vegetables and bread in Mestia opposite the central square Seti Square in the main street Zugdidi Jvari Mestia Lasdili.

If you walk down the main street a bit further into the town, you will come to some restaurants overlooking the Mestiachala River. Here it is nice to sit.

In Ushguli some inns have small stores where you can buy pasta, chips, cookies and bread. The offer is very limited. However, you can order food in most of the inns. We liked to eat at the Café Koshki and buy some cakes for the hikes.

In Mestia you should withdraw enough cash and fill up your carfor the Svaneti Loop. Especially if your car has such a small tank like the Lada Niva (42 liters). In Ushguli there is neither an ATM nor a gas station. The next gas station is in Lentechi (as of 07/2021).

Condition of the Roads on the Svaneti Loop

The road between Mestia and Ushguli is snow-covered and impassable for up to six months of the year. If you want to drive the Svaneti Loop at the beginning of the season, ask the locals if the road is already open again. But even if you go in the middle or at the end of the season, you should ask in advance if the route is passable. Due to its location, the Svaneti Loop is particularly vulnerable to landslides or slope failures, especially during the rainy months from October to May.

Don't miss it! I put together a little video from our road trip in Georgia. Among other things, it shows the roads in Kura Valley and Swaneti. It is soooo fun to watch. Have a look right now.

Kutaisi - Mestia:

Route via Zqaltubo and Martvili Canyon (221 km): Scenic, mostly paved road. Often the road leads through villages and is difficult to overlook. After about 115 kilometers you reach the larger road, which is curvy and leads steadily uphill, but can be driven quickly. Tip: plan an extra day and visit the former spa town of Zqaltubo, the Prometheus Cave and the Martvili Canyon on the way.

Route via Sugdidi (251 km): You will drive on the well-maintained roads E60 and E97. The route is longer, but easier to drive.

Mestia – Ushguli (46,5 km): The drive to Ushguli takes about two hours. At first, it goes quite quickly on an asphalt road. The last kilometers are unpaved. The route runs parallel to the Enguri River. On the left side the mountains rise steeply and on the right side the road descends steeply. Some sections are so narrow that no two cars can pass each other. However, we always had an alternate spot nearby and did not have to back up. However, the route can quickly become a challenge in rain and fog. Therefore, it is best to plan a reserve day so that you can wait for better weather in Mestia.

Ushguli – Zagari Pass – Lentechi (46 km): Dirt road over Zagari Pass with descent in switchbacks. In the Zseskho river valley, road works were carried out over a long stretch in the summer of 2021 and some sections were already paved.

Sasaschi – Lentechi – Kutaisi (118 km): Here you drive on a paved road. The closer you get to Kutaisi, the better it gets. Tip: if you didn't make a stop in Zqaltubo on the way there, you have the opportunity to do so now.

Conclusion - is the Svaneti Loop worth it?

A clear YES! We liked it so much in Svaneti that we even changed our travel plans and extended our road trip in Svaneti. Besides, the weather there was much better than in the Kazbek region, where we actually wanted to go. We postponed the latter to our next trip to Georgia. It was clear to us that we would come back and do another road trip in Georgia. And definitely again with one of the cool Lada Niva from Overlando.

Anyone who likes nature, hiking, remoteness and bumpy roads will love the Svaneti Loop. However, a four-wheel drive vehicle is a must have here. But that's what makes the route so appealing. The Lada Niva mastered all routes without any problems. Of course it is important to catch a time window with good weather. Therefore, it would be optimal if your schedule is somewhat flexible. Because when it rains, driving on the tracks is no fun and, depending on the intensity, can be a bit risky.

And how was the Lada Niva with Roof Tent?

The little Lada Niva handled all the tracks great. With all our luggage, everything was a bit cramped at the beginning. But we quickly got used to it and distributed our things optimally in the car. The roof tent was spacious and easy to put up and take down. Perfect were the windows in the roof tent. From these we could see the mountains right after waking up or the dogs that slept next to our Lada Niva. Overlando also equipped the Lada Niva with a kitchen box including a gas stove as well as camping chairs and a small table. What more does one need?

Book Recommendations for Georgia

Do you want to know where the journey is going? Then I can recommend this travel guides* to you.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Have you ever been on a road trip in Svaneti or any other region in Georgia? How did you like it? Do you have any questions about my article? If yes, then write me a comment!

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Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love road trips as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about a Road Trip in Albania or about the einen weitern Road Trip around the Baltic Sea.

Der Beitrag Roadtrip Georgien: im 4×4 Lada Niva von Kutaissi durch Swanetien erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Scotland. Scotland. Mystical stone circles, prehistoric settlements, rugged cliffs, white sandy beaches and woolly sheep. Welcome to the Orkneys! The islands in the north of Scotland enchant with their very own beauty and historical heritage. The Stone Age settlers, the Vikings and even the World Wars have left their mark on the islands. Read on to find out where the most exciting stories and the most beautiful landscapes are. In addition, there are a lot of practical tips for your road trip on the Orkney Islands.

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links*.

General Information about the Orkney Islands
Karte der Highlights und unserer “Campsites”
#1 Skara Brae - the Heart of Neolithic Orkney
#2 Skaill House - Orkney's haunted House
#3 The Falconry at Skaill House
#4 Ring of Brodgar - mystic Stone Circle
#5 Standing Stones of Stenness and Barnhouse Village
#6 Stromness Museum
#7 Coastal walk Yesnaby to North Gaulton Castle
#8 Brough of Birsay
#9 Enigmatic Whalebone Sculpture of the Orkneys
#10 Broch of Gurness
#11 St. Magnus Cathedral in Kirkwall
#12 Bay Inganess with the shipwreck Juniata
#13 Italian Chapel - the Miracle of Camp 60
#14 Churchill Barriers and Block Wrecks
#15 Hoxa Head Coastal Artillery Battery - Lost Place on the Orkneys
#16 “Old Man of Hoy” – Sea Stack auf den Orkneys
#17 Rackwick Bay - the most beautiful Beach of the Orkneys
What else is there?

General Information about the Orkney Islands

The Orkney Islands are an archipelago of about 70 islands and invite to a road trip with island hopping. However, only about 16 islands are inhabited. The largest and most important island is called "Mainland". It is connected with other islands via the “Churchill-Barriers” These include Lamb Holm, Glimpse Holm, Burray and South Ronaldsay. All other islands are only accessible by ferry or boat.

With the exception of the islands of Hoy and the Mainland, all islands are rather flat. The highest elevation is Ward Hill on Hoy with about 480 meters. Hoy and Mainland impress with their cliffs and sea stacs, such as the "Old Man of Hoy" or the Yesnaby cliffs. The rest of the islands are covered with heathland and lush green meadows.

Orkney is famous for its historical heritage. In addition to the prehistoric ruins, the famous Stone Age village of Skara Brae and the stone circles, this also includes the numerous abandoned military installations and - under water - the shipwrecks of Scapa Flow from the First World War.The islands are therefore not only popular with historians, hiking enthusiasts and hobby ornithologists - also divers like to come to dive the wrecks. These lie around 30 to 40 meters deep, it is cold and dark. This is only something for divers with dry suits and appropriate practice.For less experienced divers, however, there is the possibility to dive at the block wrecks at shallower depths.

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Map of Highlights and Campsites from our Road Trip on the Orkney Islands

The following highlights are just some of the Orkney sights you can visit during your road trip. They are limited to the main islands, which are connected, and the island of Hoy.

Unfortunately, in September 2020 we couldn't visit all the places we would have liked to see. Some places had closed because of Covid-19.

On the map of the Orkney Islands you will find the highlights of our road trip and suggestions for possible places to pitch a tent.And that you can dive right in, I have also uploaded a small photo for each high light in the map.

#1 Skara Brae - the Heart of Neolithic Orkney

After a violent storm in 1850, the former owner of Skaill House, William Graham Watt, made a remarkable discovery. In the Bay of Skaill, the storm exposed strange stone formations. Upon closer examination, the remains of stone houses became apparent. Watt led excavations in the following years and uncovered a prehistoric settlement. The remains found are up to 5,000 years old. The Neolithic village of Skara Brae is probably the best known and most important excavation site in Orkney. Skara Brae is also considered to be the best preserved Neolithic settlement in the whole of Europe. The "heart of Neolithic Orkney" is therefore often called the Pompeii of Scotland. Skara Brae has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999.

In a visitor center you can learn details about life in the Neolithic Age and the archaeological excavations in Skara Brae. Replicas of the stone houses show vividly what it must have looked like inside at that time.

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#2 Skaill House - Orkney's haunted House

Skaill House is often called Orkney's haunted house. But what is it all about? From the outside it looks like a typical Scottish manor house.

The house is isolated on the west coast of Orkney-Mainland near the archaeological site of Skara Brae. It was built in the 1620s by Bishop George Graham as a simple manor house. His son became Laird of Orkney. Since then, the house has been constantly expanded - space was needed for the family, for souvenirs, for guests and their numerous gifts. Over the course of 400 years, quite a few things have accumulated: a tiger skin from India, a tea service from Captain James Cook's last voyage, a flag of the Bolsheviks from 1919, and much more.

Skaill House has been open to visitors since 1997. The house is a real treasure chest, with artifacts from all over the world. Everything is lovingly arranged and carefully labeled. A truly worthwhile visit.

But something remains hidden from the visitor's eye: the skeletons under the wooden floor in the entrance area. They were found when the old stone floor was replaced with a wooden one. Research revealed that the south wing of Skaill House was partially built on an old Pictish cemetery. In order not to disturb the peace of the graves, the remains were put back. So it is logical that there are also stories about ghost sightings in Skaill House. Ubby is the name of the ghost and he is a man who is said to have built up an island in the neighboring Loch of Skail for years.

Tip: after sightseeing in Skara Brae and at Skaill House, you can laze around a bit in the nearby sandy cove . Tip for camping: Do you want to spend the night in a tent on your road trip across the Orkney Islands? Then this would be a good place to pitch your tent.

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#3 The Falconry at Skaill House

A visit to the falconry at Skaill House is also worthwhile. It is located directly across from the entrance to the magnificent mansion. In the only falconry on the northern island of Scotland you can see owls, falcons and other birds of prey. You will learn about the animals, their training and falconry itself.

I was skeptical at first, because birds of prey have no business in captivity in my opinion. When I learned that the falconers walk their birds while they fly freely behind them doing their own thing, I was quite amazed. All the birds you see here can hunt on their own and might just fly away during training. If there wasn't a connection between the animals and their keepers.

In addition to flight demonstrations by the falconers, you will also have the opportunity to hold the falcon or owl yourself or have it land on your outstretched arm. With the appropriate inviting posture and a piece of meat on the leather glove, the four-kilogram eagle owl also landed on my hand and even let me scratch its belly.

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#4 Ring of Brodgar - mystic Stone Circle

Only 21 of the 60 monoliths are still standing today, but the stone circle is so big that you can hardly see it with one look. With a diameter of 104 meters it is the third largest stone circle in Great Britain.Only those at Avebury and Stanton Drew are larger. Most of the stones are around two meters high. But one is particularly large - a full five meters is said to be it.

Wind and weather of the last 4,700 years have left their mark on the stones. One of the stones was even split by a lightning strike. All of them are overgrown with mosses and lichens, and when you take a closer look, they shimmer greenish and yellowish in some places. A great contrast when the heather blooms! When dark clouds hang over the monoliths, the mystical atmosphere here is perfect. How might it have been here in the past, when people came here to participate in unknown rituals?

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#5 Standing Stones of Stenness and Barnhouse Village

The prehistoric Standing Stones of Stenness impress by their size. They are up to six meters high, more than three and a half times as tall as I am. A sheep seems tiny next to these stone giants. Today there are only three Standing Stones left. But about 5000 years ago there were twelve stone giants forming a circle with a diameter of 44 meters. A two-meter deep ditch surrounded the stones, and in the center was a large fireplace. Who or what was worshipped here, nobody knows exactly.

What would Scotland be without its legends and myths?And of course there is also a story about the Standing Stones of Stenness: the stones are actually fossilized giants. Every year, around New Year, they come to life. During the nights, the giants then go to the nearby hole to drink from it. Whoever observes them doing so is haunted by bad luck.

North of the Standing Stones is Barnhouse Village,which is also about 5000 years old. It once consisted of 15 houses. The settlement is said to have been similar to Skara Brae. There is even said to have been stone furniture, stoves and beds. Today, only the remains of the walls of four houses are preserved.

By the way: The name "Stenness" comes from the old nordic word "Stein - nes", which means "stone place".

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#6 Stromness Museum

The small museum in Stromness is a real treasure chest. The exhibition is lovingly prepared and a colorful mixture of almost everything. Sometimes the exhibits seem a bit jumbled - next to stuffed animals are red pumps. But the logic behind it usually becomes clearer when reading the texts on the display cases.

The exhibition begins on the first floor with maritime and wartime history,including the famous wrecks of Scapa Flow.At the back of the building, Orkney-born polar explorer John Rae paddles one of the world's first inflatable boats. He is looking for traces of the lost Franklin Expedition - and makes a find. Inuit art and polar clothing complement the exhibits about Rae's expeditions.

The upper floor continues with the themes of archaeology, ethnology and natural history.Native birds impress with their size in display cases, and tiny shells are carefully arranged in showcases.

All in all, very worthwhile. Allow at least 45 minutes for your visit. Current opening hours and entrance fees can be found here.

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#7 Coastal walk Yesnaby to North Gaulton Castle

The coastline at Yesnaby is one of the most beautiful in Orkney.A short walk offers spectacular views of a wild cliff with seastacks, caves and rock arches. In summer, numerous seabirds breed on the rugged cliffs. At the foot of the cliffs, the waves crash thunderously against the rocks. During or shortly after a storm from the west, the waves are especially high, making the hike an unforgettable experience.

From the parking lot you walk the coastal path always south. There are several trails. Some of the paths go around the headlands and are a bit longer, others connect the bays on the shortest way. Just let yourself drift and go exploring.

The North Gaulton Castleis a seastack about 52 meters high. It is the highlight of the hike and was also the turning point for us. But only after we enjoyed the view at a long picnic.

Length: about 7.5 kilometers
Duration: at least 2.5 hours
Starting point: Mainland; parking at the former flak positions of Yesnaby, at the end of the road to Yesnaby

Book recommendation:
This and 49 other hikes can be found described in detail and with GPS tracks in the Rother hiking guide*.

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#8 Brough of Birsay

The Brough of Birsay is a tidal island in the northwest of the main island of Orkney. The main attraction of the island are the archaeological remains of a Pictish settlement as well as remains of Viking buildings.

Birsay is accessible only during low tide via a narrow concrete causeway. The time window for a visit begins about two hours before low tide and ends about two hours after. Click here for the tide table.

When the sea recedes, the rocky seabed with countless tide pools is revealed. The rocks as well as the cliffs are great photo opportunities and there is much to discover. Maybe you will be lucky and find one of the coveted cowrie shells.

By the way, in summer Birsay is supposed to be one of the best places to watch puffins. Unfortunately we didn't see any. Because in August the puffins leave their breeding caves and spend the rest of the year on the open sea. Only in April/May of the next year they come back to the land to breed.

At the northwest end of the island stands a small unmanned lighthouseIt was built in 1925 by David Alan Stevenson. The Stevensons built lighthouses for several generations and are famous in Scotland as a lighthouse building family.

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#9 Enigmatic Whalebone Sculpture of the Orkneys

It looks like an owl sitting on a wooden post. Just now, it spreads its wings and starts to fly. But as you get closer, you realize that the owl is a big bone. The post is also a bone. Two huge whale bones are stuck together here to form a strange sculpture. How did the bones get here? And for what purpose was the Whalebone sculpture erected here in Orkney? Learn more in my separate article about the Whalebone sculpture at Birsay.

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#10 Broch of Gurness

The Broch of Gurness is an Iron Age settlement located on a beautiful stretch of coastline in the north of Mainland. It consisted of about 14 houses arranged around a central tower. With a diameter of 20 meters and a height of 3.5 meters, the Broch of Gurness is the largest preserved tower of its kind.For defense, ramparts and ditches were built around the settlement.

The site is about 2000 years old. It was excavated in the late 1930s and is amazingly well preserved. Besides the remains from the Iron Age, the excavations also found evidence of later use of the site by Picts and Vikings.

Unlike Skara Brae, you can walk among the ruins and go inside the remains of the houses and the tower. Information boards explain what there is to see. Among them are a stone toilet, shelves, beds, fireplaces and a washbasin for possible ritual purposes.

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#11 St. Magnus Cathedral in Kirkwall

The northernmost cathedral in Britain is dedicated to St. Magnus of Orkney. Magnus lived around 1100 AD. As Earls of Orkney, he and his cousin Hakon ruled the islands. But as can happen in the best of families, Hakon betrayed Magnus and had him executed. Shortly thereafter, miracles occurred on the Orkneys. Who else, if not the Christian Magnus, could have caused these miracles?

The cathedral is built of different colored sandstone, which gives it a very distinctive look. And there is something else that makes the cathedral special: St. Magnus has its own dungeon - "Marwick's Hole".

The cathedral is surrounded by a graveyard where, among others, the Scottish Arctic explorer Dr. John Rae found his burial place. Inside the cathedral there is also a memorial to the explorer from the Orkneys.

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#12 Bay Inganess with the shipwreck Juniata

Bay Inganess is a picturesque bay with an extremely photogenically placed shipwreck - the Juniata. The tanker was completed under the name Sprucol in 1918. Then on April 17, 1940, the ship was sunk under the name Juniata. Thus, the Juniata became part of the fourth Churchill Barrier between South Ronaldsay and Burray islands. Nine years later, however, she was lifted and was to be taken to a shipbreaking yard. But the condition of the wreck was already so bad that she was beached again in Bay Inganess. Only the stern was apparently salvaged. All that remains is the bow of the ship, which now overlooks the beach as a rusty piece of wreckage.

Opposite the Bay Inganess is a nice picnic area and there is a loop trail with bird-watching opportunities.

Tip for camping: Do you want to spend the night in a tent on your road trip across the Orkney Islands? Then this would be a good place to pitch your tent.

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#13 Italian Chapel - the Miracle of Camp 60

The Italian war prisoners who built the Churchill Barriers built an Italian chapel on Lamb Holm. Beginning in 1942, the "Miracle of Camp 60" was constructed with the simplest of means from two Nissen huts joined together. Today, the Italian Chapel is one of Orkney's main attractions and is also in the highest category of the Scottish Heritage List.

The first thing the prisoners made was a figure of St. George, the dragon slayer. With the permission of the camp director and under the direction of Domenico Chiocchetti, the prisoners of war brought a bit of home to the north with the chapel. Everyone contributed something to the realization of the Miracle. In 1944 the chapel was finally finished. However, Camp 60 was disbanded shortly thereafter - the war was over and the Churchill Barriers were completed. The chapel, built with much love, remained unused and threatened with decay.

In 1960, the then site manager Domenico Chiocchetti was invited to Orkney. Together with local craftsmen he restored the Italian Chapel. In 1992, exactly 50 years after construction began, the prisoners of that time came back to Lambs Holm and celebrated a Mass together in their "Miracle of Camp 60."

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#14 Churchill Barriers and Block Wrecks

Scapa Flow Bay was the most important base for the Royal Navy during both world wars. Due to the surrounding islands, the ships were well protected here during storms. However, on October 14, 1939, the German submarine U 47 entered the bay and subsequently sank the battleship HMS Royal Oak, killing 833 men.

In order to protect the fleet from further attacks by German submarines, British Prime Minister Winston Churchill subsequently ordered the construction of barriers. The Churchill Barriers were thereafter to prevent passage for ships between the islands of Mainland, Lamb Holm, Glimbs Holm, Burray and South Ronaldsay. To this end, ships were initially sunk in the passages beginning in May 1940. This was followed by 40,000 cubic meters of stone and 300,000 tons of concrete blocks. The dams were declared at the time as a necessary road construction project to connect the individual islands. In fact, with this trick, prisoners of war could be used for the work. This was because, according to the Geneva Convention, the use of prisoners of war was only allowed for civilian purposes, not for military ones. The 1,300 Italian war prisoners worked on the barriers for five years at that time. On May 12, 1945 - at the end of the war - the road link across the Churchill Barriers was finally opened.

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#15 Hoxa Head Coastal Artillery Battery - Lost Place on the Orkneys

The Orkney Islands are littered with relics from the two world wars. Especially well known are the Churchill Barriers and the wrecks of Scapa Flow. But no less impressive are the numerous ruins of bunkers and defense installations on the Orkneys, for example at Hoxa Head. A circular walk along the coast leads past the ruins of the coastal artillery battery and gives you an idea of the strategic importance of the Orkneys at that time. Since I found the place so exciting, I have a separate article about the Coastal Artillery Battery Hoxa Head .

Tip for camping: Do you want to spend the night in a tent on your road trip across the Orkney Islands? On the way to Hoxa Head you will pass a beach with a toilet house. This would be a good place to pitch your tent.

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#16 “Old Man of Hoy” – Sea Stack auf den Orkneys

If there is a "Must Do" on Orkney's island of Hoy, it is a visit to the old man - the "Old Man of Hoy". This is because the popular coastal walk leads to one of Scotland's most famous Sea Stacks.The rewarding hike is rounded off by stunning views along the rugged red sandstone cliffs as well as good opportunities for bird watching. Learn more in my separate article about the Hike to the "Old Man of Hoy" incl. practical Tips.

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#17 Rackwick Bay - the most beautiful Beach of the Orkneys

It is said that Rackwick Bay is the most beautiful beach in Orkney. That may well be, I have not seen a more beautiful one. It is especially beautiful in the evening light, when the sand glows golden. The big round stones decorate the beach like Christmas balls. I have not seen anything comparable on any other beach in Orkney.

Tip: In Rackwick Bay there is a bothy where you can stay overnight.We pitched our tent here for the night. The location is beautiful, but... Midges! There were already many in the evening. But in the morning, a thick midge fog surrounded us. So, before you camp here, read my article Midges in Scotland - When? Where? What helps?

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What else is there?

During the Covid Summer 2020, unfortunately not all prehistoric sites in Orkney were open. These included the Neolithic burial chambers Maeshow Chambered Cairn on Mainland and Tomb of the Eagles and Tomb of the Otters on South Ronaldsay. We would also have liked to visit the Scapa Flow Museum on the Isle of Hoy. But it was closed for renovation. Will I travel to the Orkneys again? I am pretty sure, yes. Because besides the places mentioned before, I would like to plunge into the floods and dive to the wrecks and then warm up again on land while watching the cute puffins.

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Book Recommendations for your Road Trip to the Orkney Islands

Do you want to know where the journey is going? Then I can recommend this travel guides* to you.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Do you know the Orkneys? What did you like best there? Do you have any questions or suggestions to my article? If so, please write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

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Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love wild coasts and lonely landscapes as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about a Kayak Tour in the Swedish Archipelago or a Trekking Tour to the Greenlandic Ice Sheet.

Der Beitrag Orkney Inseln: Sehenswertes und Tipps für euren Roadtrip mit Zelt erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

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Stages of the Chogoria-Sirimon route to Point Lenana

1. to Meru Bandas Camp at Chogoria Gate (2950 m) 3 hours, 10 km, 950 m ascent
2. Meru Bandas - Chogoria Roadhead (3.300 m) 3 hours, 9 km, 350 m ascent
3. Chogoria Roadhead - Camp Mintos (4.300 m) 4 hours, 12 km, 1000 m ascent
4. Camp Mintos - Austrian Hut (4.700 m) 4 hours, 7 km, 400 m ascent
5. Summit day: Austrian Hut - Point Lenana - Camp Moses (3.300 m) 8 hours, 20 km, 285 m ascent - 1.400 m descent
6. Camp Moses - Sirimon Gate (2660 m) 2,5 hours, 9 km, 680 m descent

Tip: Many hikers also climb Point Lenana in 5 days. This is doable, but means that stage 4 and 5 are combined. Start is then at 2 o'clock at night and arrival at the camp around 7 or 8 o'clock in the evening. That means one of the most beautiful parts of the route you walk in the dark and see nothing! Doing the tour in 6 days is much more relaxed. And for acclimatization, an extra day is also an advantage.

Day 1: to Meru Bandas Camp at Chogoria Gate

The starting point of the Chogoria Route is - of course - the Chogoria Gate near the town of Chogoria. At Chogoria Gate is also our first camp "Meru Bandas". A bumpy dirt road leads through dense bamboo forest to here. But our Land Cruiser takes us only a short distance, the remaining 10 kilometers we walk. From now on it is only uphill. The camp is already at an altitude of 2,950 meters, but we still don't notice the thin air.

Did you know? Even after acclimatization, your fitness level drops by about 10% for every 1,500 meters of altitude!

At the huts of the camp lives also a troop of monkeys. They inspect everything they can get their hands on. There are also buffalos that roam the camp from time to time. Therefore, it is mandatory that you do not leave your hut at night.

Tip: If you don't want to start your altitude acclimatization at zero, spend two days in the Ol Pejeta Conservancy at an altitude of about 1,800 meters beforehand. There is a lot to discover there.

Day 2: Meru Bandas - Chogoria Roadhead

Before we leave, there are a few things to take care of: All visitors to the national park have to register at Chogoria Gate. And since we are traveling in the middle of Covid time, everyone also has their temperature taken.

On the second day the landscape becomes more interesting. We first still follow the dirt road that leads up to Lake Ellis. It goes through forest and over lush green meadows. The trees are densely covered with lichen, which indicates particularly clean air.

At about 3,200 meters we have reached the tree line. Now begins a scrubland with perennials and tall grasses. A long time ago there was a big fire here. We still see charred remains between the green bushes. Some charred flowers look like small works of art.

Later we turn off the track and walk a trail with a picturesque view. Our destination is Camp Chogoria Roadhead at an altitude of 3,300 meters.

“Go high, sleep low”

Climbing high and sleeping low is excellent for acclimatization. Therefore, after arriving at camp and having some refreshments, we took a walk of about 1.5 hours to Lake Ellis. It is located about 150 meters above our camp and is a real gem.

Day 3 - Christmas Eve: Chogoria Roadhead - Camp Mintos

We follow a ridge further and further up the mountain. Along the way there are always fantastic views over the dramatic "Gorgeous Valley" and the moorland. The higher we get, the more the scenery changes. I can't help but think of a lunar landscape. The bushes that were still growing at Lake Ellis have now given way to lobelia and greiseweed. The clouds hang low over the mountains. What a mystical atmosphere! Shortly before reaching camp, hail begins to fall. Merry Christmas!!! Good that the porters have already set up our tent and we can slip right in.

Camp Mintos is located at an altitude of 4,300 meters. We had an ascent of 1,000 meters, which is clearly too much. Above an altitude of 2,500 meters, the overnight altitude should be increased by no more than 500 meters each day. We have a slight headache, rest and do breathing exercises. We also drink like world champions. With the result that we crawl out of the tent 6 (!) times during the night. It is starry. In front of us we can make out the contours of Point Lenana. A row of small lights moves up the mountain. I'm tired, but my stomach is tingling with anticipation.

Christmas 2020 - Hot tea, Popcorn and Ibuprofen

Christmas Eve is always special. You get cozy and eat something delicious. The two Christmas holidays are usually similar, but it's all about sitting and eating. Maybe you go for a little walk.

How was our Christmas in 2020? Exactly the same. Only our walks were a little longer and steeper. We made ourselves comfortable in the tent. And when we weren't being spoiled by our cook with delicious food, hot tea or popcorn, we were wrapped up warm in our sleeping bags. We ceremoniously unwrapped the Ibuprofen tablets - and that was it with the presents. No, wait. The gift we gave ourselves was the trip itself. And it was especially precious in 2020, because we were traveling during the Covid pandemic.

Why we were traveling during the pandemic?

First, my partner and I have a long distance relationship Germany - California. To see each other, we have to travel. Second: one can also travel responsibly, which means FFP-2 mask on or keep distance, wash hands. And just don't go to crowds and beach parties. Third: my heart bleeds when I see how much the whole tourism industry suffers and everything that is connected to it. Last but not least: we had a terrible wanderlust.

DRINK! One of the most important rules in mountaineering.

The daily water requirement is normally 2.5 liters, but at very high altitudes this can increase to 5 to 8 liters! This is due in particular to the increased breathing activity. This is because the body loses a lot of fluid during the necessary humidification of the usually cold and dry breathing air at high altitudes.

Small consolation for all those who have to "go out" at night: Increased urination is considered an indication of good altitude adaptation.

What happens if you drink too little? Our body reacts at altitude with an increased production of red blood cells. Combined with insufficient fluid intake, this can lead to thickening of the blood and therefore to a danger to life due to the formation of blood clots.

Attention: between Camp Chogoria Roadhead and Mintos there is no water source. So you have to take all water with you. For this you need enough bottles. I had only two 1 liter bottles with me. That was not enough. Our guide was very kind and gave us an extra bottle.

Day 4: Camp Mintos - Austrian Hut

We start the day with a side trip to the "Temple". This is a 150 meter high vertical cliff. It gets its name from the position visitors often take when they look over the edge - they look like they are praying.

We continue along steep rock faces and reach the alpine zone. Here no more grows. The steep climbs are only going up at a snail's pace. Even the hail that starts does not manage to drive us. Only when it starts to thunderstorm, we go faster. We are unprotected on the mountain flank.

A sign shows us the way: another 400 meters to the Austrian Hut. There is no path, we climb over snow-covered rocks and are amazed at how far 400 meters can be. But the joy when we arrive at the hut is all the greater: we have it all to ourselves and there is already hot tea and cookies. And the best: my headache is gone. But now my hands are swollen. But even that gets better after a while.

Day 5 - Summit Day: Austrian Hut - Point Lenana - Camp Moses

Our summit day starts at 4:30 with cookies and coffee. Breakfast is later, after the summit. I am excited. We leave at 5:00 so we can reach Point Lenana at sunrise. It is dark. Only our headlamps light the way. That is - there is no path at all. We climb over snowy rocks and I follow the footprints of our guide John. He knows every rock up here and could probably climb the summit with his eyes closed. In the upper section it gets steeper. Here, cables are stretched, to which we can hold on.

Why am I doing this?

A brief review: On the third day of our tour, we climbed from 3,300 meters to 4,300 meters. With every meter of altitude, a question took up more space in my head. Why am I doing this? Why am I climbing this mountain? It's exhausting, at altitude one feels terrible, one hardly sleeps and has a headache. Besides, it's cold, especially at night when you have to go out for the sixth time. Why?

Shortly below the summit we stop and look to the east. The dark sky has already turned into a vivid orange. Slowly, the sun rises as a glowing ball on the horizon, giving contour to the black and white landscape below. In the distance we see the clouds hanging over Kilimanjaro. The sun has also brought with it an answer to my question, "Why?" I see the answer quite clearly before my eyes. At least until the tears of joy come to my eyes. It was exactly this moment that drew me to the mountain, that makes me forget all my efforts, that enchants me and fills me with joy.

I try to capture this unique moment with my camera. But one thing you can not see in the photos: I have tears of joy in my eyes. I have rarely seen anything so beautiful!

When we reach the summit, other groups are already posing for summit photos. We line up and enjoy the wide view over the mountain. After what feels like an eternity, we manage to tear ourselves away and begin the descent to breakfast at Shipton's Camp at 4,236m.

Downhill to Christmas Breakfast

But it still takes a while until breakfast, the descent is long. First we climb down over the rocks, then it goes steeply down in serpentines. The snow makes the path slippery and I am glad that my two trekking poles give me some grip. From up here we overlook the enchanting Mackinder Valley. It is a surreal sight, an unreal landscape: under the towering white peaks grow lobelia and giant groundsel, partly covered with snow. A small mountain stream flows next to the path, gently babbling away. All the time we can see Shipton's Camp as a small dot in the valley. Only slowly it takes shape.

After a hearty breakfast, we continue downhill for about 5 hours to Old Moses Camp. The trail is easy to walk and offers enough time to enjoy the fascinating landscape. To celebrate, we surprise our cook and porters at the camp with Tusker beer.

Day 6: Camp Moses - Sirimon Gate

Our last day. From Old Moses Camp we walk through high moorland, heath and bamboo zone and finally reach a dense mountain forest. A herd of buffalo crosses the road in front of us and quickly disappears into the thicket again. 

We leave the park at Sirimon Gate and start our safari tour through several national parks in Kenya. Now it's wildlife time! But we often look back - Mount Kenya can still be seen on the horizon for a long time.

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Would I repeat the Ascent of Point Lenana?

Trekking through the Mount Kenya countryside and climbing one of the highest points in Africa was an intense and incredibly rewarding challenge. Would I repeat the tour? Absolutely! If there weren't all the other beautiful mountains in the world. Barely a day after we were down from Mount Kenya, we couldn't wait to make plans to discover the next mountain.

More Tips for the Ascent of Point Lenana

The route Chogoria-Sirimon is well doable for fit hikers, you should be surefooted and free of giddiness. Technical climbing skills are not necessary. On the mountain it is windy and cold, in the afternoon it can rain - therefore good equipment is indispensable. Have a look at my Packing List for Mount Kenya .

Drinking water: Either fresh water from streams with water disinfection tablets Micropur Forte or boiled water. PET plastic bottles are not allowed in Mount Kenya National Park. We each used two 1-liter Nalgene bottles.

Electricity: On the way up the mountain there is no electricity to charge phone / camera. Spare batteries or a (solar) powerbank will ensure power supply. In particular, the batteries for the headlamp should still be sufficiently charged on summit day. Batteries discharge faster in the cold, it is best to take the batteries with you in your sleeping bag at night.

Temperature: from 3000 meters the daytime temperatures are between 5 and 15 ° C, at night there can be frost. Night temperatures at the summit are well below freezing.

Toilets: In the camps there are simple toilets, that is a hole in the ground. On the way there are bush toilets. Be sure to stay at least 50 meters away from water sources. More importantly, put your used toilet paper in a trash bag you brought with you!

Book recommendations for Kenya

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books* about Kenya.

You can order the books at Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product through one of these affiliate links, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you and you do me a huge favor.

Do you have a favorite mountain? Which one is it? Do you have any questions or suggestions about my article? If yes, then write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love mountains as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about a Trekking Tour around Mount Kailash in Tibet or about Climbing the Half Dome in Yosemite National Park, California.

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