Norway. Massive bodies, shaggy fur, and a hint of the Ice Age. If you enter Dovrefjell in March, you are not only embarking on a journey through snow and cold, but also through time. Because here, in central Norway, musk oxen defy the Arctic winter - they are relics of a bygone world and are among the last representatives of an animal world from the Ice Age. They were already extinct in continental Europe, but were successfully reintroduced to Dovrefjell in the 1930s. Today, around 200 musk oxen live in Dovrefjell. Observing them requires perseverance, patience, and caution. A good way to do this is on a guided tour of Moskusstien, which I report on here.

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On the Moskusstien to the Musk Oxen in Dovrefjell

Our small group consists of three nature photographers and an experienced guide. Equipped with snowshoes and our camera backpacks, we set off in the morning from Kongsvoll, a tiny village on the edge of the Dovrefjell-Sunndalsfjella National Park. Our destination: a herd of musk oxen that have been spotted on the barren plateaus around the promising Moskusstien.

Our small group consists of three nature photographers and an experienced guide. Equipped with snowshoes and our camera backpacks, we set off in the morning from Kongsvoll, a tiny village on the edge of the Dovrefjell-Sunndalsfjella National Park. Our destination: a herd of musk oxen that have been spotted on the barren plateaus around the promising Moskusstien.

Moskusstien is a marked hiking trail in Dovrefjell that leads nature lovers and photographers directly into the realm of the musk oxen. The trail starts near the E6 at Kongsvoll or at Hjerkinn and winds its way through the barren, vast mountain landscape up to the plateaus where, with a bit of luck, the primeval animals can be observed. The trail is around 10 to 15 kilometers long (depending on the variant) and requires a good level of fitness, especially in winter when deep snow and icy winds make the ascent difficult. Snowshoes or touring skis are then essential. Along the way, Moskusstien not only offers opportunities for wildlife spotting, but also breathtaking views of the Dovrefjell massif, including the striking Snøhetta. Information boards along the trail provide information on geology, flora, fauna and the history of the reintroduction of musk oxen. Despite its accessibility, the tour should never be underestimated - changeable weather, disorientation and encounters with wild musk oxen make it advisable to walk the route only with appropriate equipment and an experienced guide.

Encounter with prehistoric Animals

After about three kilometers and 300 meters of ascent, we reach a valley. There they stand: six musk ox bulls. Their massive bodies seem almost immobile in the snow flurries, but the animals are wide awake. With their broad front hooves, they dig for lichens and roots in the snow. The dense, shaggy hair reaches almost to the ground and protects the animals even at temperatures below minus 30 degrees Celsius.

The musk ox (Ovibos moschatus) is one of the last representatives of the animal world from the Ice Age. Originally native to the Arctic of North America, it was successfully reintroduced to Norway in the 1930s. Today, around 200 to 300 animals live in Dovrefjell, where they are strictly protected. Hunting is prohibited, and observations may only be made at a distance so as not to stress the animals, especially in the cold season, when every escape costs unnecessary energy. Some of my photos may look as if I were standing right next to the animals, but I was further away than it seems. A good telephoto lens makes a lot of things possible here.

Anatomy of a Survivalist

Musk oxen are perfectly adapted to the Arctic cold. Their coat consists of two layers: a dense, woolly undercoat (qiviut), which is warmer than cashmere, and a long, coarse outer coat. Their bulky build with short legs, small tail and thick neck reduces the surface area exposed to wind and cold. Even their nasal structure is designed to pre-warm the air they breathe before it reaches their lungs.

In winter, the animals join together in small bull herds, while the females form their own groups with the calves. Only during the mating season in summer do the males compete for the females with impressive fights. This is a time when the animals can become aggressive and unpredictable. But now, in late winter, it's all about survival. Calmly, almost stoically, they stand in the wind and dig for food unperturbed. Only sometimes do they measure their strength by facing each other and staring at each other.

Safety in Dovrefjell with the Musk Oxen

The sky, which we have been keeping a watchful eye on since midday, darkens visibly. As predicted, the wind picks up, and it doesn't take long for the snow to whip horizontally across the plain. We make our way back laboriously, step by step, against the storm. Visibility gets worse and worse, but our guide knows the terrain and leads us safely back to the valley.

On a winter tour to the musk oxen in Dovrefjell, safety is paramount - both in terms of the harsh weather conditions and keeping a respectful distance from the animals. The high plateau is often still covered in deep snow in March, with temperatures well below freezing, strong winds, and sudden changes in the weather. Snowstorms and poor visibility can make orientation difficult, while icy slopes and deep snow make progress energy-sapping. There can also be a risk of avalanches on steeper slopes. It is equally important to keep a safe distance from the musk oxen themselves: Although the primeval-looking animals are generally peaceful, they can react suddenly and aggressively when threatened, especially older bulls. An adult bull can reach speeds of up to 60 km/h and attack dangerously with its massive body. A minimum distance of 200 meters is prescribed by the national park administration. Experienced guides know the behavior of the animals and the peculiarities of the area and make a significant contribution to making the tour safe and stress-free for both humans and animals.

It is only in the warm room of the Dovrefjell Lodge that I realize how exhausted - and satisfied - I am. The experience of encountering these primitive animals in their natural environment will stay with me for a long time.

Dovrefjell-Sunndalsfjella National Park

Dovrefjell-Sunndalsfjella National Park covers more than 1,700 square kilometers in central Norway and comprises a unique mosaic of alpine plateaus, deeply carved valleys, moors, and river systems. The park was established in 2002 and protects not only spectacular landscapes, but also an extraordinary diversity of species that have adapted to the harsh climatic conditions.

The highest peak in the national park is the 2,286-metre-high Snøhetta, a striking mountain and symbolic landmark of the region, which is also popular with hikers and nature photographers. Unfortunately, the hut at the viewpoint was not open in winter, but we were able to sit in the sun on a bench in the lee of the hut. Botanically, the area is remarkable, as rare arctic-alpine plant species grow here that are rarely found elsewhere in Norway.

Dovrefjell Park is particularly famous as the home of the last wild musk oxen on the European mainland, which, after being reintroduced from Greenland in the 1930s, once again roam the plateaus in small herds. In addition to the musk oxen, the national park is also home to one of the few remaining populations of wild reindeer on the European mainland. These animals are much shyer and avoid human proximity, but also roam the open areas in search of lichen under the snow during the winter months. In addition to musk oxen and wild reindeer, the park is also home to Arctic foxes, wolverines, and ptarmigans.

Dovrefjell Park is particularly famous as the home of the last wild musk oxen on the European mainland, which, after being reintroduced from Greenland in the 1930s, once again roam the plateaus in small herds. In addition to the musk oxen, the national park is also home to one of the few remaining populations of wild reindeer on the European mainland. These animals are much shyer and avoid human proximity, but also roam the open areas in search of lichen under the snow during the winter months. In addition to musk oxen and wild reindeer, the park is also home to Arctic foxes, wolverines and ptarmigans.

Conclusion

Anyone traveling in Dovrefjell in winter enters a landscape that is uncompromising - but also of profound beauty. And if you are lucky enough to see musk oxen up close, you will sense that they are more than just relics of the ice age: they are survival artists in a changing world and a reminder of how fragile even something as big and strong as the musk ox can be.

Book Recommendations for Nature Photographers

Do you want to know more about photography and are you curious for inspiration? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Do you have any questions about my article? If so, please write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

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Recommendations for further Reading

Want to spot even more wildlife? Then take a look at my article about Birdwatching in the Pond Landscape Linum and about Neuwerk Island - Birdwatching in the Hamburg Wadden Sea .

Der Beitrag Moschusochsen im Winterwind des Dovrefjell erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

NorwayBlåisvatnet (“Blue Lake”) is one of the highlights of the Lyngen Alps in northern Norway. Even on a gloomy rainy day, it shines in a bright turquoise blue and puts the icing on the cake of this scenic and varied hike.

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Stony Path to the Blue Lake, Lyngen Alps

But as is so often the case, you first have to work for the view of the beautiful Blue Lake. The 4.2 kilometer long path (one way) leads over the stones of a dry river bed. You can't walk fast here, every step has to be taken carefully. I was glad to be wearing ankle-high, sturdy hiking boots and to have trekking poles with me.

Shortly before the lake, the stones turn into rocks and a bit of climbing is required. But it's worth all the effort! The Blue Lake is the most beautiful thing I've seen in the Lyngen Alps in Norway

The trail starts off easy and comfortable. It goes through a small forest past a river. Even here I can hardly make any progress because of all the photo stops. On the way back, I even see a bunch of reindeer roaming along the riverbank.

Why is Blåisvatnet so blue?

Blåisvatnet is fed by meltwater from the Lenang glacier. Silt particles of quartz and feldspar are carried into the lake with the water and deposited at the bottom. These particles reflect the blue light components of sunlight particularly well, while absorbing other light components.

The “Blue Lake” hike in the Lyngen Alps at a glance

• Length: 8.4 km round trip
• Elevation gain: 189 m
• Duration: 5 to 6 hours
• Best time: In the afternoon and at the beginning of the evening light
• Nature: The path is largely stony.
• Marking: Red markings on cairns and rocks
• Parking: At the trailhead there is a large, paid parking lot “Lyngsalpan” in Sør-Lenangsbotn with WC and information boards. There are barbecue areas and the possibility to camp.

Yes, my pictures are all edited in Lightroom / Photoshop. But the water is really that blue, I didn't do anything to it. I took the darker photos with a gray filter. The blue has become particularly strong in these.

Alternative Route via Aspevatnet

A signposted path leads to the Aspevatnet lake, which does not have such blue water. From there, there is also a path to the blue lake. I have not walked this path, but I want to mention it for completeness.

Are you still looking for accommodation? Then I can highly recommend the old Solhov school in Lyngseidet . It's not around the corner (about an hour's drive) but the accommodation is extremely cozy and conveniently located near the ferry to Olderdalen.

Book recommendations for Norway

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

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Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love the north as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about my Husky Guide Training – Two Months with Hetta Huskies in Finland or about Trekking on the Laugavegur in Iceland.

Der Beitrag Wanderung zum Blåisvatnet “Blauer See” in den Lyngenalpen, Norwegen erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Finland. The summit of Otsamo is a popular hiking destination in Inari. The 418-meter-high mountain offers a great view over the Inari lake area and a cozy shelter, which used to be the fire warden's hut. The Jäniskoski rapids, which are spanned by a suspension bridge, are another highlight of the hike.

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Hike to the summit of Otsamo at a glance

There are two hiking trails leading up to Otsamo: one starts in the nearby village of Inari and another at the Vasatokka Youth Center. I walked the route from Inari to Otsamo, which I describe below. In winter, there is a ski slope marked with blue pegs up to the summit.

• Start / Finish: Inari; north of the bridge over the Juutuanjoki, opposite the Siida Museum
• Length: about 19 km (there and back)
• Ascent: 300 m (mainly a steep ascent in the last 2 km before the summit)
• Marking: red wooden posts
• Shelter: two lavvus and a hut on the summit, each with a dry toilet and wood supply

What makes the hike from Inari to Otsamo peak so worthwhile?

Jäniskoski rapids and suspension bridge

The hike begins rather unspectacularly. The trail leads along wide paths through a pine forest and boulders. The route is part of the Juunta Trail, where information boards tell you about life by the river in the past.

After about 3.3 kilometers, you reach the Juutuanjoki River with its raging rapids Jäniskoski, over which a suspension bridge is spanned. It gets even wilder when you stand in the middle of the suspension bridge and look down through the grid floor. What you can also see is that there are wooden planks on the edge of the bridge for our four-legged friends.

At the suspension bridge, the Jäniskosken Lavvu invites you to take a break. After another 2.1 kilometers there is another lavvu, called Laurin Lavvu. Both have a fireplace, a woodshed and a dry toilet.

To the summit of Otsamo

After the rapids, the wide path becomes an easily accessible trail that winds through the mixed pine forest and follows the rushing Juutuanjoki River. Only the last two kilometers before the summit are steep. The vegetation changes, the trees become smaller and birch trees and rocks dominate the surroundings. If you turn around, you can see the lake landscape far below. From the small wooden hut on the summit, you have a 360-degree panorama that you don't find everywhere: far below, the lakes Inarijärvi and Muddusjärvi spread out and you have a view of the Juutuanjoki River and the Muotkatunturi and Joenkielinen fells.

After enjoying the view in all directions, I also went into the hut. A cool wind was blowing up there all day and I could see the rain coming in the distance. I unpacked my provisions and coffee and sat down by one of the large windows of the old fire warden's hut.

Fire warden huts

At the beginning of the 20th century, the forest wardens in northern Finland were responsible for around 90,000 hectares of forest. Their duties also included fire watching. More and more of these fire lookout huts with integrated observation towers were built. Around 1970, there were around 40 fire lookout huts like this one on Otsamo near Inari. In the 1980s, surveillance aircraft were increasingly used. Many of the huts were then converted into overnight or day cabins.

There was once a walk-on viewing platform on the roof of the hut. In the summer of 2024, the ladder leading up to it was unfortunately dismantled. But you can still go inside the hut and warm up or take a break sheltered from the wind and rain. There is a stove and a gas stove. Instructions for use are pinned to the wall in various languages.

The hut is only intended for daytime use and not for overnight stays.

Book recommendations for Finland

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I am also very happy if you share my article with your friends.

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Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love Scandinavia as much as I do? Do you fancy Norway? Then you might be interested in my articles about a Winter in Tromsø - the Gateway to the Arctic or about the Lofoten and Vesterålen - Winter Highlights.

Der Beitrag Hike zur Brandwächter-Hütte auf dem Otsamo bei Inari erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Portugal. The Atlantic island of Madeira is known as an evergreen island and a paradise for hikers and flower lovers. But landscape photographers also get their money's worth here: rugged coastlines, mystical laurel trees in the "fairy forest", mountain panoramas at sunrise or imposing waterfalls guarantee that the motifs will never get boring. In the following article, I will tell you about my favorite photo locations in Madeira.

#1 Fanal - mystical Laurel Forest in the Fog

My clear favorite among the photo locations on Madeira is the laurel forest Fanal. The most impressive thing is to visit it in the midst of a foggy day. You can wander along various paths or even cross-country between ancient, gnarled laurel trees. Due to the frequent fog, the trees are covered in moss and lichen. If there are fairies and forest spirits in this world, then it's definitely here.

We visited the Fanal twice and kept discovering new motifs and perspectives. We used both the wide-angle lens and the standard zoom lens. It is helpful to have a microfiber cloth with you to wipe off the fog drops. If the weather is sunny during your trip and there is absolutely no fog, then I can also highly recommend the sunset at Fanal.

Tip: next to the parking lot there is a camp with picnic tables, toilets and cooking facilities. There are various hiking trails around the fanal that looked interesting. Unfortunately, we didn't have enough time.

#2 Mountain Panoramas around Pico Arieiro and Pico Ruivo

Timing is everything... and the best time to photograph the mountain peaks and their surroundings is definitely at sunrise or sunset. Also, before the tour buses arrive from Funchal or after the groups have left. The highest peak (Pico Ruivo at 1862 m) and the third highest peak (Pico Arieiro at 1818 m) of the island's central mountain massif both offer great views. However, Pico Arieiro and the "buzzard's nest" are even more spectacular with their many steps and precipices. The advantage of Pico Arieiro is that you can drive up by car. To reach Pico Ruivo, you first have to walk up the paved PR1.2 hiking trail for about an hour. The starting point is the Achada do Teixeira parking lot. PR1.2 and PR1.3, which continue in the direction of Encumeadas, offer many great motifs along the way, such as the many trees that have died in a fire and dominate the landscape like white skeletons.

Note: The approach from Funchal to Pico Arieiro takes you along the steepest road in Madeira, Caminho da Barreira, with a gradient of up to 45%. It is easier to get there from the east via ER 207, ER 202, or from the north via ER 103.

The wind can be quite relentless up there on the peaks and can quickly make your fingers stiff. So it's best to pack gloves and a hat as well as a windproof/waterproof jacket (we were there at the turn of the year, maybe it's a bit milder in summer).

#3 Ponta de São Lourenço

The Ponta de Sao Lourenço peninsula, the easternmost tip of the island, juts out into the Atlantic Ocean. There are several spectacular and sometimes more or less dizzying viewpoints. And again, the best time to take photos is at sunrise. Unfortunately, I missed it. But I did manage to capture the evening light.

The Ponta do Rosto and Ponta de Sao Vicente viewpoints are the easiest to access, right next to one of the parking lots. If you want to go higher, follow the path to the highest point on the north side of the rocky coast, the Mirador do Abismo. The path is quite steep in places and slippery due to loose debris, especially on the descent. There are further viewpoints along the entire hiking trail, which finally ends at Pico do Furado (160 m) with a view over the protected area as far as the lighthouse.

The many lizards that were around us during a break along the way were curious. I have always found lizards to be very shy...not so these ones on the peninsula. They must have an incredibly good sense of smell and were keen on our sandwiches. Soon they were trying to climb up my leg, and at some point, one had made it over my back and onto my shoulder. It was a bit like Jurassic Park...;-)

At 7.7 kilometers, the hike is not very long. However, the many great views can quickly extend the excursion to 4 to 6 hours.

Tip: if you've got your telephoto lens with you, you can take good photos of the yellow Canary Island chickadees at the Casa do Sardinha cafeteria surrounded by date palms.

#4 Rock Needles at Ribeira da Janela

The rugged rock needles at Ribeira da Janela are one of the most famous photo locations on Madeira. They are at their best at sunrise and when the sea is rough. Then the spray splashes up on the rocks or, with the help of the ND filter, turns into a diffuse coating over the stony beach.

There is a viewpoint, a camper van site and toilets at the rock needles.

Tip: If you stay a little longer after sunrise, you can still see the sun coming out from behind the mountains (I took this photo at the beginning of January).

#5 Levadas - Madeira's Water Pipelines

If you go hiking on Madeira, you can't avoid the levadas. Levadas are irrigation channels that criss-cross the entire island in a sophisticated network. With a gentle gradient, the water is transported from the rivers in the rainy north to the cultivation areas in the dry south. Often over many kilometers. The levada hikes usually do not have any major inclines, as the canals on the mountain flanks run almost parallel to the contour lines. The maintenance paths are often very narrow and oncoming traffic can sometimes be a challenge. Many levadas also run through tunnels that have to be walked through. Sometimes with your head down and wading through large puddles. A flashlight should therefore always be taken along on a levada hike.

The levadas, with their sometimes straight, sometimes curved lines, offer great subjects for wide-angle or even slightly telephoto shots. The often dense vegetation on the mountain slopes or on the damp walls offers many opportunities for detailed shots.

Tip: Hiking trails are often closed for repair work. Check the Visit Madeira websitein advance to find out whether your desired path is open.

I have hiked the Levada do Rei, Levada das 25 Fontes and the Levada do Caldeirão Verde and can highly recommend all three. The hikes are very popular, so it's smart to set off early before hiking groups from Funchal arrive. And because the three hikes are so popular, there is a café with a toilet at the start of each one.

#6 Waterfalls - the Kings of Madeira's Photo Locations

Many levada hikes are crowned by an impressive waterfall. I found the waterfall at the end of the Levada do 25 Fontes particularly spectacular. The waterfall at the end of the Levada do Caldeirão Verde is almost as beautiful. Those who like to work with ND filters will get their money's worth here.

Fancy a refreshment? Even in January, one or two hikers didn't miss out on the fun and jumped into the pool under the waterfall at the Levada das 25 Fontes.

#7 Lava Rocks near Porto Moniz - perfect Reflection or wild Surf

With wind and swell, the surf that crashes against the north coast is so powerful that the air fills with spray. It doesn't take long before you can taste the salt on your lips. On the stretch of coast between the two natural baths in Porto Moniz, you can take impressive pictures of the forces of nature at these moments. With less wind and waves, on the other hand, you can get the perfect reflection in the natural pools between the lava rocks... but only if you get there before all the bathers.

Book Recommendations for Nature Photographers

Would you like to learn more about landscape photography? Then I can highly recommend the e-books from Fotonomaden. In the "slow & simple" photography e-books (winter, forest, water, flowers & blossoms) you will always find 40 photo ideas on the respective topic. Each inspiration is accompanied by several sample images as inspiration and simply explained, easy-to-implement tips. (only in German)

Have you ever been to Madeira and what were your favorite photo locations? If so, please write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Would you like to read more photo tips or are you looking for new photo locations? Then take a look at my article on Wildlife Photography with Respect or my interview with the Fotonomaden on the subject of winter photography .

Der Beitrag Madeira fotografieren – die besten Fotolocations für Naturfreunde erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Iceland. After the first two days on Laugavegur, trekking in Iceland counts as a water sport for me. I curse the rain cover for my backpack, which always flies off halfway, and I no longer believe in Goretex boots and lightweight gear. On the way, I discover my hidden talent for repairing outdoor equipment: sleeping mats, shoe soles that fall off, fissures, and broken backpack buckles... On the last day and after about 55 kilometers on Iceland's best-known long-distance hiking trail, I finally feel I'm prepared for anything and immediately walk further over the Fimmvörðuháls to Skógar. Simply irresistible!

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Icelandic Weather provides Diversity

Laugavegur is considered one of the most beautiful trails in the world. But what exactly makes trekking on Laugavegur in Iceland so special? It can't be the Icelandic weather, can it? Or maybe it is because the weather gives the trail a very special atmosphere: light fog and low-hanging clouds made me not completely rule out the existence of trolls. Besides, the clouds gave my photos a great dramatic effect and the everlasting wind made me feel nature even more intensely. The quick weather changes also brought a certain dynamic to the hike: no sooner had one applied sunscreen than one was putting on one's rain jacket and looking for one's gloves.

Be prepared for bad weather and take waterproof and warm clothes with you. Even if the weather forecast promises only sun! You are on the trail for several days - the forecast can change. Don't forget: People have already frozen to death on the Laugavegur in bad weather!

Weather forecast for Iceland: vedur.is

More info about trails in Iceland: safetravel.is

What you will read here

There are already numerous blogs that describe the Laugavegur in all details and provide many facts. I don't want to write another one. So in the following I will write about some details that we experienced on the tour and that might help you when it comes to more than just GPS routes, camps and bus connections.

Do you know how to pack your backpack? Or how to calculate your own walking time? What is important when fording a river? Did you check your equipment beforehand for weak points or did you think about what you should take with you to repair your equipment or what spare parts you should bring?
You can read that and a few stories about it in the next chapters.

And why my post has this somewhat ambiguous title? Well, it corresponds to the naked truth. And there are already so many articles called: "Guide for the Laugavegur", "XX Tips for the Laugavegur", "Laugavegur - everything you need to know"... My title sounds more exciting, doesn't it?

The landscape drives to hike

Every day on Laugavegur surprises with a different kind of landscape. This motivates one to keep moving forward, after all, one wants to see what great view is hiding around the next corner or behind the upcoming hill. The more beautiful the landscape, the easier it is to walk. Even with my additional five kilograms of camera equipment.

We walked the trail in four stages:

Where is the luggage?

Imagine the following situation: You have well-tried and tested outdoor equipment - boots, sleeping pad, trekking backpack, sleeping bag, clothes, and, and, and... And then suddenly everything is gone. You wait for it to finally reappear, but no one can tell you where your luggage has gone. A week passes, the second week passes, and the third. And then you fly to Iceland to trek the Laugavegur and have either old, borrowed, or newly bought equipment. Thanks, Lufthansa! My partner's luggage was lost on the flight from Los Angeles to Berlin while changing planes in Frankfurt. It took three months for it to turn up! Hard to believe, isn't it? But alas, this happened with some regularity on several airlines in the summer of 2022.

My partner starts the Laugavegur with my 20-year-old discarded trekking backpack, an old inflatable sleeping pad, an aged sleeping bag, and borrowed mountain boots that were fortunately already broken in. That the soles almost fell off, we have only seen during the tour... And that the sleeping pad will not last long, we have also not suspected.

Check the equipment before the tour for the condition (the owned and borrowed) and reconsider the durability of some parts.

Stage 1: Landmannalaugar to Hrafntinnusker

After a four-hour bus ride through the rain, we arrive in Landmannalaugar in the rain. Here we are supposed to start. However, my motivation is low, my backpack is heavy and somehow there are suddenly far too many people here. At the same time as our bus, two other buses arrived, whose passengers now spread out in the parking lot, visiting the toilet and besieging the party tent kindly erected by the campsite owners. Did the bus driver not tell something about a food truck with hot soup? I suppress the thought and unpack our sandwiches instead. I eat quickly so that the bread doesn't get so wet. Then we're off. All the others - most of them were day visitors - have already set off and we now have a free path.

After the first 5 minutes, I realize that I have not packed my backpack well: the camera and the telephoto lens are on top, and my backpack wobbles on my back, which is especially annoying when climbing over the first rocks. I repack: the lens comes down further, close to my body, about where my shoulder blades are. And the camera comes out around my shoulder because the photo motifs will not be long in coming. As rain protection for the camera, I have a waterproof bag* handy, which I put over the camera again and again during the day. Also good, but not waterproof, is the softshell cover for the camera from Peak Design*.

Here's how: Pack your backpack correctly

• Light equipment such as sleeping bag, sleeping pad, down jacket down.
• Medium-weight gear, such as clothing to the top outside.
• Heavy load camera lenses, tent, provisions, drinking water at shoulder height as close to the body as possible.
• Small items that are used frequently in the lid compartment.
• Keep a first aid kit handy.
• Use pack sacks to keep your gear organized and dry.
• Backpack too small? You can also attach bulky, light luggage to the outside.

We walk through the geothermal area of Landmannalaugar with smoking solfataras, colorful rhyolite mountains, yellow sulfur crystals, pitch-black volcanic rock as well as whimsical lava formations. Again and again, great views open up, like the one over the black lava field Laugahraun, colorful mountain flanks, and white snow areas. Finally, in the last section of the stage, we cross extensive snowfields. As soon as the glassy, black obsidian then mixes with the rocks, the hut at Hrafntinnusker is not far away. The mountain is littered with obsidian, which you may already know from the series Game of Thrones as dragon glass.

The camp at Hrafntinnusker is very exposed and partly covered with snow. The places for the tent offer some wind protection with small stone walls made of obsidian.

Did you know that it is forbidden to take stones from Iceland?
Do not forget!

Do you want to spend the night in the hut? Then book early, because there is not much space. If you bring your tent, you don't need to make a reservation. The cost for a tent with two persons is 5.000 ISK (as of 07/2022). If you go to pay in the hut, take a little more money: there are canned beer and candy bars.

This is how it works: Calculate walking time

Do you want to know how long you will be on the way? This is how you can estimate your time:

1. Time needed for the difference in altitude: per hour 300 hm in ascent, 500 hm in descent, or your personal experience value.
2. Time needed for the walking distance: 4 km per hour or your personal experience value.
3. Divide the smaller value in half and add it to the larger value. This is then your approximate time requirement without breaks.

Stage 2: Hrafntinnusker to Alftavatn

The second stage starts in the snow. The trail is easy to see here, as a trail of dirt stretches across the white snow fields. The dirt comes from the exposed, rocky sections of the trail that alternate with the snow. It is much easier to walk on them. When we left, it was foggy, the wind kept whipping rain in our faces, and we shimmied from trail marker to trail marker, which are particularly large up here and therefore easy to see. We struggle with our rain covers, which the wind keeps tugging off our backpacks. Also, additional belts, which we tie around, help only for a short time. (The next day I packed the entire contents of the backpack waterproof in pack sacks and garbage bags and hiked without rain cover).

How much Rain, Wind and Fog should it be?

At some point, the point is reached that it is better to spend the day in the tent and wait until the weather gets better. Where exactly this point lies is difficult to say, it depends on many things. Better think twice about what suits you. Plan a buffer day and take a little more food with you. That way you can just sit out bad weather.

We set off for the day - after checking the weather report, which promised an improvement in the weather. Wrapped up warm and rainproof, with the map in a waterproof map case*, compass, GPS, thermos and Emergency Shelter*, where two of us would have found quick shelter.

At some point, it clears up. We look into a wide valley and see at the very back the lake Alftavatn with the hut. The path now goes downhill and the landscape becomes greener again. The camp at the lake consists of two cabins, a shower, and toilet house, and - here it comes - a restaurant! It is tiny, but all the more cozy for it.

When there is no Wind in Iceland, there is a Storm...

What was blowing across the meadow as we pitched our tent was definitely not wind. We held our tent cover down with our hands, feet, and stakes, and then somehow managed to tie everything down and tighten it up. The aluminum poles bent threateningly far toward the ground but held up after further support from a trekking pole. The tent meadow at the lake offers no protection, everything is flat, and there are no stone walls or bushes behind which one can warp.

The Thing with the Sleeping Pad

After we have set up the tent, the next surprise comes: one of our sleeping mats breaks down. It keeps the air inside, but some of the internal weldings of the single air chambers have come open. One half of the mat is now just a big bump, the suitable lying surface has been halved to about 30 centimeters... only brute force helps: we press forcefully on the mat and let more of the welds open up. Deflate a bit and then it somehow works out with lying down. But comfortable is different.

The sleeping pad was a bit older. To me, this has already happened with another similar mat after 8 years. Whether I continue to rely on air-filled mats with this chamber system on tours??? Rather not! What experiences do you have? Please drop me a line!

Currently, I use the Therm-a-Rest NeoAir Xtherm*. It's light, compact, and super warm with an R-value of 6.9. Inside it, there are many small triangular chambers that provide thermal insulation. I hope it lasts a little longer.

Stage 3: Alftavatn to Botnar

The night it stormed and rained continuously. In the morning it was a little less stormy, but the rain just won't stop. Slowly the campground empties, at some point, there are only three tents left, including ours. During a short rain break, we take down and pack our backpacks. About 16 kilometers lie ahead of us. We decide to stop at the restaurant after 100 meters. A perfect rain shelter with coffee and cake. Well... it was already noon (it opens only at 12:00). We wait here until the rain stops and then start our daily stage with dry clothes. Since it does not get dark in Iceland at the beginning of July, one is fortunately completely free in his timing!

Good to know: sunrise and sunset in Iceland

Spare Parts and Repair Kit

Before the tour, I considered for a long time, which spare parts and what I should take along for possible repairs. After Iceland, we went to Greenland for hiking at the Tasermiutfjord and for a kayak tour through the fjords. So it was worthwhile to think about these "little things". And maybe take a little more with us: Screws, cable ties, spare buckles for the backpack, armor tape, sewing kit, my Leatherman, and so on. I needed the sewing kit on the very first day, a spare buckle on the second day, and the screws on the third. What else I had with me but didn't need: floral wire, nails, rubber bands in various widths, super glue, buttons, rivets, ribbon, small leather/rubber pieces, velcro, and sturdy trash bags. In addition, I have collected on the trail everything possible, which was so on the way and seemed useful and thereby done equal to the environment what good.

Shortly after I had firmly reconnected the sloping sole with the trekking boot, we had to take the boots off again immediately: a river blocked our way. This was the first ford on the Laugavegur for us - up to here we could jump over all the rivers, cross them with the help of stepping stones, or just walk through quickly.

So boots off, waders* on, pant legs up, open the hip belt, and trekking poles* in the hands.

Wading through a river: how to do it, you can see here .

After about four kilometers we reach the Hvanngil hut with a beautiful and better wind-protected campsite. After that the landscape changes again, it becomes stonier and bright green, moss-covered mountains rise from the black plain. The way to the Botnar hut is long but offers many great motifs for all photo enthusiasts. With tired legs and feet, the view of the camp at the end is certainly one of the most beautiful motifs.

And because it is so beautiful here in the camp, we stay two nights and use our free day for a day trip and for photography. The first day we had pitched our tent at a great view. But for the second night we moved down into the valley, where it was much more sheltered from the wind.

Hiking Backpack and Camera

In addition to the necessary hiking gear, I carried about five kilos of camera gear across Laugavegur. The camera was mostly hung around my torso, ready to hand. With the shoulder strap, it didn't bother me much. Only when I used trekking poles, the camera was a bit of a hindrance and I then tied it to the backpack.

The camera clips "Capture" from Peak Design, which many photographers like to use, with which you can attach the camera to the shoulder strap of the backpack, unfortunately did not fit on my backpack. I have to try again with other screws, the supplied were just too short. Now I have discovered from Tasmanian Tiger a camera mount for the backpack and modular lens bags that you can attach to the outside of the backpack. Maybe I'll give those a try.

How do you carry / attach your camera to your trekking backpack? Do you have any tips? Then write them in the comments.

Stage 4: Botnar to Thórsmörk

With a view of one of the many glacier tongues of the distant Mýrdalsjökull, we continue on the last section of Laugavegur. After a steep descent we cross the river Botnaá, which has cut deep into the rock. Fortunately there is a bridge. The landscape here looks completely different from the first three days. Later we walk through black sand on which willow bushes grow. After another climb we see the sea for the first time. It seems eternally far away. Thórsmörk, the legendary forest of Thor, on the other hand, is not so far away. But before we enter the forests of dwarf birches and yellow and blue flowers, we have to ford the river Þrongá. This was the deepest and widest river we had to ford.

Arrived at Camp Langidalur we first sit down in the sun and toast with a beer (at the reception you can buy all kinds of useful and tasty things). Almost wistfully we look back on the trail - is it really already over? The next day the weather is supposed to be nice. I decide to go further. In front of me lies the Fimmvörðuháls Trail, which leads between the two glaciers Mýrdalsjökull and Eyjafjallajökull to Skógar. I go on alone. My partner takes the bus back to Reykjavik, because the broken sleeping mat does not really invite to extend the tour.

There are three camps in Thórsmörk: Basar, Langidalur and Húsadalur. All three have a bus connection to Reykjavik. Langidalur is closest at the end of Laugavegur. At Basar is the trailhead of the Fimmvörðuhál. Here also many overlanders camp with their vehicles, who don't want to ford the river Krossa. Camp Húsadalur is the largest and offers the most comfort, including a restaurant, sauna, cabins and glamping tents.

You can buy bus tickets online at Trex .

So what exactly made the Trekking on Laugavegur so special?

When I look back on the hike along Laugavegur, I would love to walk it again next summer. Iceland shows its prettiest side on these 55 kilometers, each stage has its own character. It never gets boring or monotonous. And the Icelandic weather then adds a bit more drama and atmosphere to the landscape. Simply beautiful. However, only if you are not freezing and not wet. But if you prepare a bit and take gloves, a scarf, a beanie, and long underwear with you on your summer vacation, you will have a great time on the trail.

Humid, stormy, irresistible - and sometimes the sun shines!

Many things that are necessary for the success of a trekking tour on the Laugavegur in Iceland, I have not gone into. These are, among others, the use of map, compass and GPS, stove and food, appropriate clothing, onion layer prinzig, emergency equipment ... The list could be continued even further. I will take up these topics in the coming articles.

Book Recommendations for Iceland

Do you want to know where the journey is going? Then I can recommend this travel guides* to you.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. This does not make the product more expensive for you.

Do you know the Laugavegur Trail in Iceland? How did you like it? Do you have any questions or suggestions regarding my article? If yes, then write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

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Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love trekking as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about the circumnavigation of the holy Mount Kailash in Tibet or about 100 kilometers of hiking on the Hexenstieg in the Harz mountains.

Der Beitrag Feucht, stürmisch, unwiderstehlich – Island Trekking auf dem Laugavegur erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Iceland. After two hours, I had almost gotten used to the constant uphill walking. It felt almost funny when I saw a wide plain in front of me. A minute ago everything around me was green, here it is now stony and windy. In the distance I recognized a cairn. It had to be huge. Shortly after, I kept the stone man company for a while and enjoyed the panoramic view of the surrounding glaciers and canyons from the Fimmvörðuháls Trail, one of the most beautiful trekking routes in Iceland.

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Thor's forests, dizzying views, canyons, glaciers, white snowfields, black lava formations, volcanic craters and countless waterfalls.... Did I forget something?

Von Þórsmörk (Básar) bis nach Skógar sind es rund 25 Kilometer und 870 Höhenmeter bergauf. Der Weg geht steil hinauf bis zum Fimmvörðuháls, wo die Hütten Fimmvörðuskáli und Baldvinsskáli stehen. Von dort geht es dann nicht ganz so steil rund 1060 Höhenmeter wieder hinab. Viele Wanderer, die den beliebten Laugarvegur Trail gehen, setzten ihre Wanderung über den Fimmvörðuháls Trail bis nach Skogar fort. Die Strecke lässt sich in zwei Etappen mit Übernachtung bzw. Camping in/an der Hütte unterteilen. Für mich war es ebenso die Fortsetzung des Laugarvegur und zugleich der krönende Abschluss einer meiner schönsten Wandertouren. Ich bin beide Etappen des Fimmvörðuháls an einem Tag gelaufen, anfangs bei schönstem Sonnenschein. Abends um 23 Uhr kam ich bei Regen in Skogar an. Der Zeltplatz war voll, meine Beine waren müde, meine Füße waren nass, meine Nase lief, aber ich hatte ein breites Grinsen im Gesicht.

Stages of the Fimmvörðuháls Trail

Stage 1: Þórsmörk (Básar) - Fimmvörðuháls (ca. 10,5 km; ascent ca. 1220 m, descent ca. 259 m)

Stage 2: Fimmvörðuháls - Skógar (approx. 14 km; descent approx. 1060 m)

Where is the Fimmvörðuháls Trail the most beautiful?

The Fimmvörðuháls Trail gives you a little bit of everything Iceland has to offer. It's hard to say which section I liked best. The trails are very different and it is the variety that makes the trail. It never gets boring.

Forests of Thor and dwelling place of the gods

It starts in the forests of Thor - also known as Þórsmörk. Here blue and yellow flowers bloom, there is water and the dwarf birches grow lush and don't seem so dwarfish anymore. The path zigzags up through Goðalönd, the dwelling place of the gods, to several viewpoints. From here the valley of the wide glacial river Krossa can be seen for a long time. Soon, the path becomes more exposed. On both sides deep canyons cut into the landscape and there is a great view of the mountain Útigönguhöfði and the glacier Tungnakvíslajökull on the other side. Up here, no more trees grow and it goes steeply up a grass-covered mountain flank further and further.

View to the valleys Hvannargil and Hraungil

After the steep ascent it is time for a rest. The path leads straight across the stony plain of the plateau mountain Morinsheiði at the end of which the next highlight is waiting: the view into the valleys Hvannargil and Hraungil. A great point for an extensive break and to gather strength. Now we go up a narrow section at Heljakambur, it gets a bit steeper again and at an easy climbing spot there is even a metal chain for safety.

Snow and lava fields

Now it goes further and further up to the lava field Godahraun. At some point the first snow fields begin and the colors of the landscape reduce to black, white and gray. From time to time there is also some red mixed in, from the lava rock underneath. Here Eyjafjallajökull erupted in 2010, the craters Magni and Modri erupted before the main crater. By now the lava has cooled down a long time ago, but it is still sharp and cuts your skin or rain pants if you are not careful. The trail continues between the Eyjafjallajökull and Myrdalsjökull volcanoes. At the 1116 meter high pass Fimmvörðuháls it is almost done. At least for those who plan to spend the night at the huts.

Trail of the waterfalls

Two huts at the pass invite you to stay, camp or just to warm up for a while. From here the view reaches all the way to the coast. Afterwards the trail leads over a gravel road. Only at the bridge, which leads over the river Skógá, it continues on a trail - I have called this section for me the "Trail of the waterfalls". The waterfalls line up like pearls on a necklace - one more beautiful than the other. Especially when the sky is a bit more dramatic, the photos become especially beautiful. Unfortunately, this is then also often associated with rain, so I mostly just took pictures with my phone. Next to the waterfalls, steep canyons open up that can even keep up with the picturesque Múlagljúfur Canyon in southeast Iceland.

Even though this last section is incredibly beautiful, it also drags on quite a bit. Especially when you have already covered 20 kilometers. The trail ends at the impressive Skógafoss - but only after you have mastered the last challenge: about 370 steps down to the campsite.

Tip: After the bridge over the Skógá River, you'll find several springs along the trail where you can refill your drinking water.

The Fimmvörðuháls Trail at a glance

Start and end: Básar (247 m) in Þórsmörk via Fimmvörðuháls (1116 m) to Skogar (60 m)

Length: about 25 kilometers

Height difference: Direction Þórsmörk to Skogar about 870 meters up and 1060 meters down

Tip: It is easier to go steep up than steep down, so for me the direction Þórsmörk to Skógar was the favorite.

Overnight: In two cabins at Fimmvörðuháls (book in advance) or in a tent next to the cabins. Wild camping is prohibited. At the start/end point at campsites or hotel (Skógar) or hut (Þórsmörk).

Directions to get there: from / to Þórsmörk or Skógar Campsite there are buses. You can book in advance through Trex. Attention: If you take the bus from Skógar to Reykjavik, you will have to stay in Hvolsvöllur for about six hours. There is not much to see here, except the gas station with restaurant, a few Icelandic horses, a souvenir store and the lava exhibition. Alternative: the Straeto bus from Skogar. Bookings in advance are not possible. If the bus is full, you will have to wait for the next one, which will come the next day.

Do not forget: Trekking poles, sunglasses and sunscreen, rain gear and warm clothes (no matter what the weather is at the beginning!!!), gloves, hat, first aid kit with emergency blanket.

Check the weather forecast! If you are hiking at the beginning of the season, check the condition of the trail, for example on Safetravel.is. Do not start the tour in bad weather / forecast. You walk mostly in exposed terrain, where you have no protection in bad weather and also miss the view - not worth it. It is better to stay one day longer in the camp. Plan a reserve day, if necessary instead smaller day tour in Þórsmörk!

The best Season: mid July - early September

Trail conditions: trails, scree, snow and lava fields, gravel road. In July 2022 I didn't have to ford any rivers from Þórsmörk Langidalur to Básar, the Krossa was crossable dry with mobile bridge. However, it is better to ask about the current status beforehand.

Drinking water: There are hardly any places on the way where you can fill up. However, you can melt snow at the top of the pass or buy drinks at the huts.

Map: Landmannalaugar, Porsmörk, Fjallabak - 1:100.000 *

Orientation: the trail is marked throughout with pegs

Book Recommendations for Iceland

Do you want to know where the journey is going? Then I can recommend this travel guides* to you.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. This does not make the product more expensive for you.

Do you know the Fimmvörðuháls Trail in Iceland? How did you like it? Do you have any questions or suggestions to my article? If yes, then write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love trekking as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about the circumnavigation of the holy Mount Kailash in Tibet or about 100 kilometers of hiking on the Hexenstieg in the Harz mountains.

Der Beitrag Fimmvörðuháls – Trekking auf der Lava des Eyjafjallajökull erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Greenland. One of my feet stuck between two roots, branches tugged at my 26 kilo backpack and small thin twigs tore at my hair. There was no back and forth, no left or right. I took a breath and tried again. How far this strech of birch thicket reached, I could not see. The birches were taller than I was. Dwarf birches they should be. Then finally a free area, swamp, a brook and a few stones. Behind it the next birch thicket was waiting for us. For hiking at Tasermiut Fjord one needs patience and good nerves. You want more? Then read on and see what made hiking here so uniquely beautiful and rewarding.

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4 kilometers in 10 hours - Welcome to Tasermiut Fjord!

Our most important companions during our hiking tour at Tasermiut Fjord: sunglasses to protect our eyes from branches, trekking poles, my drone to scout the next trail section, chocolate and patience. Each step wanted to be carefully placed. Here, at Tasermiut Fjord, the rules of nature applied. What ideas we had about our trekking tour didn't matter in the wild. Soon we dropped our expectations, adapted and suddenly paid attention to things for which we had no eyes before. After six days on the Tasermiut Fjord, we arrived in Klosterdalen safe and sound, except for a few bruises, and just in time for sunset. The mountains in front of us shone in orange light and clouds played around the rugged peaks of Ketil and other, nameless peaks. Nothing beats a moment like this.

Tip: You prefer paddling to hiking? You can organize kayaks at the Tourist Information or at the Blue Ice Cafe in Narsarssuaq.

In the Patagonia of Greenland

Some call the Tasermiut Fjord the "Patagonia of Greenland". Others call the area the "Yosemite of the Arctic." But no matter how one names the place, everyone agrees: these are the most beautiful mountains in all of Greenland.

The Tasermiut Fjord in South Greenland is famous for its rugged mountains and is popular with mountaineers, hikers and kayakers alike. Besides the mountains, snowfields on the mountain flanks, glaciers, wild rivers and low-hanging clouds characterize the image of the fjord. If you go hiking here, you will experience firsthand how green Greenland is.

The " Big Walls" on the Tasermiut Fjord include Ulamertorsuaq (1,858 meters, the Arctic version of El Capitan in Yosemite), Nalumasortoq (2,054 meters, shaped like an open book) and finally the huge granite pyramid of Ketil (2,010 meters). At the end of the fjord rises another great wall: the Tasermiut glacier, 1,400 meters high and three kilometers wide.

Hiking routes at the Tasermiut Fjord

There are several "recommended routes" from Tasiusaq to Klosterdalen, which are listed in the hiking map South Greenland Tasermiut fjorden - Nanortalik 1:100.000 . The routes run along the fjord shore or through the river valleys Qinnguadalen, Tupaassat and Klosterdalen. These are not hiking trails or paths. And honestly, at least on the fjord shore, the recommendation of the map is completely useless. You have to find your own way there. Maybe it is different in the river valleys. Only at the very beginning, near Tasermiut, there is a gravel road and paths or sheep trails. Otherwise it is pathless terrain: Meadows, blueberry scrub, marsh, willow bushes and dwarf birch trees. Sections lead along the shore, which is sometimes littered with larger rocks. Climbing is the order of the day. It becomes easier at low tide (tide table Nanortalik). However, in addition to the recommended routes, the hiking map gives other helpful information on its reverse side about hiking, kayaking, climbing, fishing as well as about nature and behavior in nature at Tasermiut Fjord. Worth reading and important to know!

What is missing in the map: the bridges over two glacial rivers are not shown. One is over the Kuussuaq river and the other is over the river between Ulamertorsuaq and Ketil mountains.

Hiking at Tasermiut Fjord and Klosterdalen in South Greenland

Day 1: Boat transfer and hike from Saputit to the Kuussuaq River.

Shortly after departure of our boat to Saputit we threw our plan A overboard and decided instead for the shorter hiking route along the eastern shore of Tasermiut Fjord: only about 32 kilometers instead of the big loop through the river valleys Qinnguadalen, Tupaassat and Klosterdalen with about 65 kilometers. With a shorter route we would be more flexible to the rain announced for the whole coming week and could simply wait in the tent for better weather. 

For the boat transfer to the start of the Hiking Tour at the Tasermiut Fjord , it is best to contact Serano Boat Tours via Facebook Messenger. We got a transfer for the next day.

Rain, rain, rain, rain, rain, rain....

We waited for the rain in the tent sooner than we would have liked. We barely set up our tent after our first 7.5 kilometers when it started to rain. Eleven hours of heavy rain, wind and even a small thunderstorm banished us to the tent until noon the following day. The meadow was soon flooded and the raindrops pressed through both tent walls. The water also penetrated the tent floor in some places. But there's always something positive: The cooking pot that I had left in my vestibule overnight was filled to the brim with rainwater for the breakfast coffee in the morning. Fortunately, I had covered my backpack after the first shower in the vestibule to protect it from the rain. However, my boots got a little soaked at the beginning.

Thunderstorms are extremely rare in Greenland. Luckily it stayed far away, otherwise we would have had to come up with something. One is not safe in a tent during thunderstorms. More about safety when camping during thunderstorms can be found here.

Info about the Route

Length: By boat: about 32 kilometers (about 45 min); on land: about 7.5 kilometers. Alternatively, you can be dropped off in Tasiusaq. The pretty village of 25 inhabitants has a small supermarket and you can rent the cottage from Serano. Your hiking distance will be about 5 kilometers longer.

Camp 1: On the northern bank of the Kuussuaq River is a large open meadow for camping. The meadow is marked as a suitable camp in the hiking map. However, sheep have also taken a liking to the meadow, which is why it is littered with droppings. There is a garbage can and a fireplace.

Trail: Initially gravel trail, passing two sheep farms; later trail (sheep trails); several fences have to be crossed either at the right place to open or at the designated overclimbing points; a bridge leads over the Kuussuaq River, fording is not necessary (would not have been possible with the water level we found)!

Drinking water: From the river Kuussuaq next to the camp. Because of the omnipresent sheep droppings, disinfect the water if necessary, e.g. with Mikropur Forte tablets*. For us it worked without.

Day 2: Boat transfer and setup at Camp 2

When we dared to leave the tent the following day around noon, Christian was standing in front of us. He had come with two Norwegian guests for fishing. After a short chat he offered us a boat ride to the next camp. At first I said no, after all we had come here for hiking. It should still be about 15 kilometers that day. But in the end my inner pig and my wet trekking boots won out. We quickly packed up, climbed into the boat and were at the camp after a bumpy twenty minutes. During the trip, even the weather cleared up a bit. As we approached the camp, we couldn't believe our eyes: two paragliders flew down one of the mountains with their colorful parachutes.

Actually, we thought we wouldn't meet anyone during our hike. But as soon as we arrived, Luc showed up. "Do you like to join us and have a cup of tea with me and my friends? " - Sure! His friends were climbers from France and Belgium. They had been here in camp for three weeks, climbing new routes. Under their tarp next to a big rock it looked really cozy: A table, benches made of stones, a big cooking pot and lots of other useful stuff. In the corner even hung a net with collected Lapland tea to dry. In front of the camp Emma held the position, a stone woman with hair made of seaweed.

In the evening, the cloud cover broke even further and revealed the view of the mountains. The panorama was indescribably beautiful. We stood there in awe until the clouds took over the mountains again.

Info about the Route

Length: in the boat: about 17 kilometers (about 20 min)

Camp 2: On both banks of the river between the mountains Ketil and Ulamertorsuaq are open meadows for camping. These are not marked on the trail map.

Specifics: A suspension bridge spans the river. Note: In September 2025, I learned that the bridge had been destroyed.

Drinking water: from the big river next to the camp

Days 3 and 4: Short hikes from Camp 2.

We stayed at the camp for three nights. The weather did not encourage further walking and my ankle was painfully swollen in the evening. It must have happened during the bumpy boat ride. I didn't twist my ankle and an overload from sitting in the tent and expecting the rain stopping was also unlikely... Instead of hiking further towards Klosterdalen, we did two shorter hikes in the area with light packs.

The first hike took us at first over the suspension bridge and then parallel to the shore towards the south. There was a trail that was easy to walk. We followed this to the next glacial river and then a bit inland on sheep trails.

On the way we kept looking for musk oxen. But as we learned afterwards, they should only be found on the western shore of the Tasermiut Fjord. Instead we enjoyed smaller companions: curious birds that came closer and often accompanied us for a while. As soon as we sat down and took a break they squatted on the neighboring rocks and didn't seem to be shy of us at all.

The next day we followed the path upstream from our camp until it got lost in the dense brush. Since the brush was still wet from the rain, my boots quickly got wet again. While walking through, I scraped the water from the plant parts, which then ran down my legs to my shoes.

Day 5: Here we go: departure towards Klosterdalen

We planned our departure for the following day, according to the weather forecast of our Garmin inReach Mini 2*the sun should shine. Then we would still have two and a half days time, until Serano picks us up with the boat in Klosterdalen. The eight-kilometer distance we should easily manage. And when we are in Klosterdalen, we could do some small explorations there. At least that's what we thought... it turned out differently.

We were quickly proven wrong: For the 8 kilometers we needed no less than two days with one seven and one 10 hours of hiking (including breaks). Swamps, shrubs, willow bushes and huge dwarf birches made every meter a small fight. But everything started quite relaxed. In sunshine and a light breeze, the first few hundred meters were along a path and then along the shore. Then the rocks got bigger and the shore steeper, so we had to swerve uphill. At first we thought the dense bushes were only there in some patches and could be easily bypassed. But eventually it became more and more dense and there was no other option but to go across. Around four o'clock in the afternoon we had enough. Next to a small stream we set up camp and unpacked the whiskey bottle as a reward.

A few words about safety: be aware that you can break your ankle at any moment while hiking through the birch thicket. Tightly laced trekking boots category BC are indispensable. Train your balance with a heavy backpack on your back: squats on one leg, lunges, etc. Have your first aid kit handy so that you can quickly apply a (pressure) bandage if necessary. Practice this beforehand! Allow enough time to sit out any rain in the tent and not have to rush in the difficult terrain. It is not a good idea to run under time pressure. And so that you can still enjoy the great scenery in Klosterdalen at the end: wear sunglasses and protect your eyes from stinging branches. Und damit ihr am Ende noch was von der tollen Landschaft in Klosterdalen habt: tragt eine Sonnenbrille und schützt eure Augen vor stechenden Zweigen.

Info about the Route

Length: approx. 7 kilometers

Walking time incl. breaks: approx. 7 hours

Camp 3: on the way, next to a small stream

Trail: pathless terrain: initially banks, then marsh, shrubs, willow bushes and dwarf birch trees

Specifics: There are smaller mountain streams to cross, which is mostly possible with stepping stones, a jump or just walking through. Only one stream we had to ford, but this was very easy.

Drinking water: on the way from numerous mountain streams

Day 6: Through the wilderness to Klosterdalen

The further we got towards Klosterdalen, the denser the wilderness became. I had read in blog articles about Klosterdalen that it goes in places only with 1 km/h. But that it will be here on the fjord shore a good 70% of the way so, I had not thought. (In retrospect, however, it is clear that it will be so, because after all you stay on the coast at the same altitude with similar conditions). The "recommended route" marked on the trail map was not apparent. Worried about missing a trail or open terrain, I sent my drone into the air. We then used the photos to pick the best route. Mostly it was from rock to rock, because there the vegetation was not quite so dense. From time to time we could walk on the shore, or climb over rocks. Only the last kilometer along the shore let us relax a bit.

At sunset we were standing at the camp in Klosterdalen. The last rays of the sun colored Ketil and Co. in warm orange. What a great reward for what was probably the most difficult hike I've done so far.

In the afternoon the wind increased more and more. In the evening it was so stormy at our camp that I took extra care to peg down our tent. But even with wind, the view of the mountains was simply fantastic. We put on another layer of clothing and enjoyed the view. Shortly after the sun disappeared behind the mountains, the wind also died down. But with the calm came the mosquitoes.

The mosquitoes of Klosterdalen

Some of the midges became part of our dinner: mashed potatoes with soaked dried vegetables. There were the small mosquitoes, similar to midges in Scotland, and also larger mosquitoes. Klosterdalen had significantly more than the other camps. But for me it was still ok without a mosquito net over my head. Most mosquitoes hung around my partner, who then also pulled a net over his head. From the mosquito spray Deet, which we used, the mosquitoes were rather unimpressed. It is best to check in Nanortalik, that you get a regional mosquito spray, which is adapted to the mosquitoes here.

Info about the Route

Length: 4 kilometers

Walking time incl. breaks: 10 hours

Camp 4: Klosterdalen, south of the river. The camp is marked on the trail map.

Trail: Pathless terrain: swamp, shrubs, willow bushes and dwarf birch trees. At the end shore with rocks.

Specifics: The further you hike into the fjord, the denser the vegetation becomes. No significant stream crossings.

Drinking water: on the way from numerous mountain streams; from the river Uiluii Kuua next to the camp.

Day 7: Boat transfer Klosterdalen - Tasiusaq - Nanortalik

The next day our boat came two hours earlier than planned - "We expect strong wind in the afternoon and we could not sail then - so we came earlier" said the captain. Thirty minutes later we were in the boat, the water was smooth as glass and the monastery ruins of Klosterdalen we will probably see another time.

How did Serano know we were already at the meeting place? I had given him the Internet address of my Garmin inReach. The tracking function recorded our location every half hour so he could trace our route on the map.

By the way, here, in the remote valley, there was an Augustinian monastery in the 10th century - hence the name Klosterdalen. Today there are only a few ruins left, but they are said to be barely recognizable. Unfortunately, we were not able to look for them due to time constraints.

Stopover in Tasiusaq

To Nanortalik it is about 70 kilometers by boat, about 1.5 hours drive. The closer we came to the mouth of the fjord, the higher the waves and the stronger the wind. White foam crowns stretched over the breaking waves and water splashed into our little nutshell. Greenland showed us again with ease how small and vulnerable we are. How easily one of the bigger waves combined with a gust of wind could have knocked over our little boat. We turned away and let ourselves drift with the wind back to the small town of Tasiusaq.

Later in the afternoon, the wind was supposed to weaken again. One just had to wait a bit. The blue wooden house of Serano invited us to stay with a warm stove and coffee (you can also rent the house). In the small supermarket of the village of 25 inhabitants we also get everything for a delicious lunch (card payment possible).

Around five o'clock in the afternoon we finally set off and were soon back in Nanortalik. After our hiking tour at the Tasermiut Fjord we were looking forward to a warm shower. On the way to the hotel we stopped briefly at the supermarket and bought a few treats for the evening.

Sad story: All inhabitants of the village Tasiusaq starved to death about 140 years ago. Only in the 1930s the village was repopulated by descendants and family members of the original inhabitants.

Some additional info at the end

• Buy the hiking map South Greenland Tasermiut fjorden - Nanortalik 1:100.000 and read the information on the back.
• A lot more information can be found in "The Ultimate Greenland Hiking Guide" from visitgreenland.gl
• Plan one or two buffer days for your hike and take extra food with you. The boat cannot come to pick you up in all weather conditions.
• There is no cell phone reception. Take either a satellite phone or, for example, a Garmin inReach and familiarize yourself with its operation beforehand.
• You are in polar bear country. Check with the tourist information office and your boat guide for any sightings and reschedule if necessary. More info on what to do during polar bear encounters.
• “Leave no Trace!” - better read again...

How to get to Tasermiut Fjord?

Tasermiut Fjort in South Greenland is relatively easy to reach, at least for Greenlandic conditions. You can fly from Reykjavik to Narsarsuaq. From there you have the choice: either in the expensive helicopter of Air Greenland to Nanortalik or by boat. Since we were already halfway there (Narsaq), we continued our journey by boat.

You can book the boat trip at Discoline . The trip is often done with the boats from the Blue Ice Cafe. Blue Ice Cafe.

From Nanortalik you need a charter boat that takes you to Tasermiut Fjord. We asked for help at the tourist information office. There we got the contact to Serano Boat Tours and could arrange a transfer for the next day. The cost of the transfer there and back was 700 euros (as of 2022).

Book Recommendations for Greenland

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Equipment

Below you can see the equipment we took with us to our hiking tour at Tasermiut Fjord. Most of it worked well. Only my Goretex boots were no longer waterproof after four years of frequent use (for whatever reason). I also wished our tent would have let less rain through. 1500 mm water column for the outer tent and 1800 mm for the floor were a bit low. But in return the tent was light and stood reliably even in strong winds.

Have you ever been to Greenland? Maybe even for a hiking tour at the Tasermiut Fjord? How did you like it? Do you have any questions about my article? If yes, please write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

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Recommendations for further Reading

Want to know more about travelling in Greenland? Then click here for my article about my Hike to the Ice Cap at Eqi Glacier or about my Winter Trip to East Greenland.

Der Beitrag Die Entdeckung der Langsamkeit – Hiking am Tasermiut Fjord erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Scotland Scotland is known as a paradise for hikers, scramblers and climbers. Here, climbing the so-called Munros, or Munro bagging, is practiced like a national sport. And as soon as the first snow falls in the mountains, Munro bagging continues with crampons and ice axes. But winter mountaineering in Scotland has to be learned and practiced. We took a closer look and participated in a Scottish Winter Mountaineering course in beautiful Glencoe. With crampons, ice axe and ropes we went high up and steep down. Scottish winter weather and breathtaking views included.

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Caution: Many Munros require a bundle of special equipment and skills. Every winter, underprepared hikers and climbers experience nasty surprises, some with fatal outcomes. Scottish winter weather and snow and ice conditions should by no means be underestimated.

What are Munros?

Munro is the name given to all the mountains in Scotland that are higher than 3000 feet (914.4 m). They are named after Sir Hugh T. Munro, who surveyed and catalogued all the Munros in 1891. The highest of the 282 Munros is Ben Nevis at 1,345 m (3,000 ft).

Climbing the Munros requires stamina and sometimes technical skills. Those who have climbed all the Munros are held in high esteem by the Scots. For me, also anyone who can remember the Gaelic names of the Munros and pronounce them is held in high esteem.

First Steps to become a Scottish Winter Mountaineer

Impressions from our five-day course in beautiful Glencoe, Scotland

Crampons and ice axe

The ice axe and crampons are part of the winter mountaineer's equipment. However, it is not enough to just have them with you. You also have to know how to use them and be familiar with their use. First, however, we learned how to move on the snow slope even without crampons: always hit the lateral corners of the boots into the snow. Then our instructor Chris explained to us how to use the crampons and additionally stabilize ourselves with our trekking poles or ice axe and a trekking pole. We also learned how to climb on steps in the snow or hit some with our ice axe.

Braking with the ice axe

After learning how to walk, we moved on to falling. Braking with the ice axe after a fall is an extremely important skill. But unfortunately it doesn't work instinctively and there is also the risk of hurting yourself with the ice axe or crampons. On a gently descending slope, we practiced braking in every imaginable scenario: head first, feet first, on our backs, on our stomachs, and everything in between.

Snow anchors, roping up, belaying and abseiling

The next few days we learned knots and worked with ropes, slings and rappels. We built anchors with an ice axe buried in the snow, sat in snow holes to belay our climbing partners, or rappelled down using snow anchors. Later, we also used rocks for rappelling and belaying and moved alpine style over mixed terrain.

Snow and avalanche awareness

In winter mountaineering, snow and avalanche awareness must be considered. This was taken into account first by theory lessons in the evening and the following day with a detailed examination of the snow layers and strength.

Are you interested in a mountaineering course? Then have a look at Adventure Peaks. For more information on Scottish Winter Mountaineering, visit the Mountaineering Scottland website.

Scottisch Winter Grades

There are different systems for grading the difficulty of a mountain route. Why does one need different ones? Well, they are adapted to the local climbing conditions. Here you can find an overview of the different scales.

Scottish winter grades apply to ice and mixed conditions. Roman numerals I through IX represent the overall grade, Arabic numerals the technical grade of the most difficult section. Our beginner course was limited to grades I and II.

• Grade I: Easy ascents, snow gullies and ridges. The snow slopes are steep up to 50 degrees. One ice axe is sufficient.
• Grade II: There are steeper sections with ice, which are mostly passable with an ice axe and have only minor technical difficulties. Sometimes two ice axes are required.

More about the Winter Climbing Grades.

Never trust the Scottish Weather!

Winter mountaineering in Scotland promises incredibly beautiful snowy landscapes and, at best, great views and blue skies. But the weather in Scotland is unpredictable. Storm and rain or even a white-out with zero visibility must always be expected. On one summit, as well as while rappelling down a snow slope, it nearly blew me away.

If you go to the Scottish mountains in winter, you have to be prepared for the worst of the weather and choose your equipment accordingly. On the evening before the first day of the course, Chris checked our equipment and explained exactly what we should take with us or rather leave at the hotel. Everything according to the motto: As little as possible, as much as necessary.

The season of Scottish Winter Mountaineering can stretch from October to April. But the actual length of the season is difficult to predict. There are no set dates, it just depends on the climbing areas being snowy and in good condition. Most courses in Scotland take place from January to March.

Tips for the equipment

• It is important to be prepared for emergencies: an emergency bivy sack*, a well-packed outdoor First aid kitincluding a warming blanket, an extra insulating jacket, a whistle*
• Indispensable are a reliable waterproof rain jacket and rain pants. If you are unlucky, it can rain all day. However, keep in mind that your rain gear can be damaged by handling the ice axe and crampons.
• Tip: Duct Tape*will tape anything, including torn rain jackets.
• Insulation jackets with Primaloft fill are better than down jackets in the expected wet weather. My favorite jacket has been the Arcteryx Atom*for years now. Even after 10 years of use it is still in good shape.
• Don't forget the rain cover for the backpack or pack everything in the backpack in waterproof bags*.
• Be prepared for the worst in terms of weather and be prepared for rapid weather changes. Take enough clothes with you to dress in the "onion layer principle" on site.
• Don't forget sunglasses and ski goggles. I have had good experiences with Julbo Reactive* , as the lenses adjust their brightness to the weather.
• Sturdy trekking poles, such as the Leki Sherpa XTG*, are essential for the course.
• A sip of hot tea on a cold day awakens new strength. It stays warm, for example, in the thermos flask from Esbit*. It even has two cups.

Mountain boots, hiking poles, gloves and everything else you might need for your mountaineering course in Scotland can be found at Bergzeit.

These were just a few things, the list is by no means complete. To ensure that nothing would be forgotten, Adventure Peaks gave us an extra packing list for the course.

We were able to rent the special mountaineering equipment on site. That was the climbing harness, carabiners, slings, rappelling gear, helmet, ice axe, crampons and crampon proof mountain boots (e.g. the La Sportiva Nepal Cube GTX*).

And what about the camera?

I have carried my camera up the peaks of Mount Kenya and Illinizas Norte, which are about 5000 meters high. Even in the paddle boat or while trail riding, it's always handy. But here, on the Scottisch Winter Mountaineering, I left it in the hotel with a heavy heart. First, because I expected to always have my hands full during training (it was). Second, because it rained so hard for at least the first two days that I might not have unpacked them at all. I took pictures with my phone, a Huawei P40 pro, instead. I also got some more photos from my partner and from our instructor, which I was allowed to use here. Thanks again for that.

Conclusion of the Scottish Winter Mountaineering Course in Glencoe

When I was struggling up a snow slope in rain and storm, I asked myself from time to time "Why am I doing this at all?" But then when the rain let up a bit and I stopped for a moment to look around, I'd ask myself "Why didn't I do this a long time ago?" Even though it can sometimes be exhausting and uncomfortable in the mountains, you are rewarded double and triple. With views over great landscapes and insights, for example, about what is important to you. For me, nature and the mountains are at the forefront. And the more confident I can be in the mountains, the further I get. During the Mountaineering course I learned a lot, had a great time with like-minded people and got a lot of desire for even more. A course couldn't be better, could it?

Book tips for mountain lovers who love to travel

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Have you ever been to Scotland in winter? How did you like it? Do you have any questions about my article? If yes, then write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love road trips as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about a Circumnavigation of Mount Kailash in Tibet or about the Climbing Mount Kenya in Kenya.

Der Beitrag Scottisch Winter Mountaineering in Glencoe erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Harz Mountains, Germany.  The Harzer Hexenstieg (Harz Witch's Path) leads across the Harz Mountains over a length of almost 100 kilometers. The varied route runs through deciduous and coniferous forests, across moors and up to the highest mountain in the Harz, the Brocken. There is a lot to discover during the hike, such as the history of mining, the Harz narrow-gauge railroad, the significance of the Brocken and, of course, the sagas and legends about the Harz witches.

You always wanted to do a multi-day hike? Or you are looking for a versatile route to train for a longer trekking tour? Then the Hexenstieg in the Harz Mountains is just the thing.

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There are already many articles about the Hexenstieg with exact and detailed descriptions of the way...

In this Article you will learn

• Which 10 highlights you should not miss during your hike on the Hexenstieg in the Harz Mountains... sometimes they are not so directly on the way.
• Why the Hexenstieg is so well suited as a first step for multi-day hiking tours.
• You'll also get lots of helpful tips for planning your hike, such as how to get there and back, where to stay or maps.

But first:

What is it about the Witches?

The Harz region is known for its witches. They gather at the Hexentanzplatz in Thale, ally themselves with the devil on the Brocken and hang in every souvenir store as little dolls riding a broom.

This reputation originated primarily from Goethe's work Faust. But the Brocken (also known as Blocksberg) was already considered a meeting place for witches previously. This is where the witches flew to the "witches' sabbath" to renew their pact with the devil.

Unfortunately, the Harz was also particularly in the spotlight at the time of the witch hunt. But fortunately these times are over. Instead, the Harz is now known for its Walpurgis celebrations, which take place every year on April 30. Particularly celebrated is the Hexentanzplatz Thale and Schierke.

Tip: How about hiking the Harzer Hexenstieg for Walpurgis ? Or on Halloween , like we did? Halloween is not such a big deal in the Harz, but the great foliage color in the fall is hard to top in good weather. It was especially beautiful on the last two stages.

At a Glance: the Hexenstieg in the Harz Mountains

Length: approx. 96 kilometers; Brocken bypass approx. 107 km

Duration: About 5 days

The Hexenstieg in the Harz Mountains is about 96 kilometers long and is usually divided into five stages. But the daily stages can be arranged individually depending on your own fitness and endurance. How exactly you divide the individual stages also depends on the available accommodation. So one stage can be a little longer or a little shorter. Early booking is worthwhile, then you have the greatest flexibility.

The direct route leads from Osterode over the Brocken to Thale. There is also the possibility to bypass the Brocken via St. Andreasberg and Braunlage. Then you walk less altitude meters, but the route is a little longer with 107 kilometers.

A detailed description including map, altitude profile and GPX data for navigation can be found at Harzinfo.

• Stage 1: From Osterode to Buntenbock: Length: 11,62 km; Ascent: 620 m; Descent: 227 m
• Stage 2: From Buntenbock to Torfhaus : Length: 21.99 km; Ascent: 804 m; Descent: 556 m
• Stage 3: From Torfhaus over the Brocken to Drei-Annen-Hohne : Length: 19.75 km; Ascent: 1141 m; Descent: 542 m
• Stage 4: From Drei-Annen-Hohne via Rübeland to Altenbrak : Length: 28.6 km; Ascent: 170 m; Descent: 412 m
• Stage 5: Altenbrak to Thale : Length: 14.10 km; Ascent: 336 m; Descent: 173 m

10 Highlights of the Hike on the Hexenstieg in the Harz Mountains

#1 Mining History and the Oberharzer Wasserregal (Upper Harz Water Regal)
#2 Torfhaus and Dinner at the Bavaria Alm
#3 Torfhaus National Park Visitor Center
#4 Upland Moor along the Goethe Trail
#5 Brocken Summit - the highest Mountain in the Harz Mountains
#6 Brocken Railway
#7 Schierker Feuerstein: Schnapps and Granite Rocks
#8 Rübeländer Dripstone Caves
#9 Suspension Bridge "Titan RT" over the Rappbode Dam
#10 "Grand Canyon of the Harz" - Roßtrappe and Hexentanzplatz near Thale

#1 Mining History and the Oberharzer Wasserregal (Upper Harz Water Regal)

The Upper Harz was once the most important ore district in Germany. Iron, lead, copper and silver were primarily mined here. In the period from the 16th to the 19th century, about 40-50% of the silver mined in Germany came from the Upper Harz. For centuries, the people of the Harz lived with and from mining. But with the closing of the last mine in Bad Grund on March 28, 1992, the mining epoch in the Harz was over.

Mining in the Harz has left its mark on the landscape. Wood was needed for ore processing and gallery construction. The original forests were cleared and reforested with fast-growing spruce monocultures .

The technical equipment in and around the mine was powered by water. The Oberharzer Wasserregal was created between 1536 and 1866 to store and transport water to the mines. It comprised 120 dam ponds, 500 kilometers of water ditches and 130 kilometers of underground water transfer and solution tunnels. Due to its uniqueness, the Oberharzer Wasserregal is protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. On the way you will find again and again buildings of the Wasserregal with information boards, especially on the stages 2 and 3.

More info about the Oberharzer Wasserregal.

Mining museums and show mines in the Harz Mountains

#2 Torfhaus and Dinner at the Bavaria Alm

Torfhaus is the highest settlement in Lower Saxony at about 800 meters above sea level. It is a popular destination and consists mainly of tourist facilities. In addition, Torfhaus is an easily accessible starting point for various hiking tours.

Until the German reunification in 1990, Torfhaus was mainly known as a viewpoint of the nearby, but at that time unreachable Brocken. Even today, the view of the Brocken is fantastic in clear weather. But that doesn't seem to be enough for some people: at the end of May 2021, construction work started on a 65-meter-high observation tower.

By the way, the small village owes its origin to the peat extractionwhich was operated here from 1573 to 1786. However, since the peat dried poorly in the prevailing weather conditions, peat mining in the Upper Harz was discontinued.

When you have reached your second day's destination Torfhaus in the evening, you have earned a reward! The rustic Bavaria Alm at Torfhaus is just the right place. It's best to reserve a table, especially if you want to stop there on the weekend.

#3 Torfhaus National Park Visitor Center

At Torfhaus, the central contact point for all hikers and nature lovers is the National Park Visitor Center. Here, an exhibition on two floors informs about the national park and about the wilderness that is being created here. In the Shop you can also buy hiking maps, Harz and nature books as well as small souvenirs.

Opening hours are from April to October daily 9 am - 5 pm. It might be a little tight if you want to hike the long distance to Drei Annen Hohne that day. But if you plan your stage a little shorter and hike, for example, only to the Brocken or Schierke, then you have time to visit.

By the way: The Torfhaus is also a biker meeting place. If you are there in the afternoon, you can marvel at tens of hot stoves.

As a little side note: 
Before my studies, I did a three-month internship at the Harz National Park Administration, helping to develop exhibition content and giving guided tours. Working with the forester was a particular challenge: We mapped damage to spruce trees and usually had to trudge through knee-high snow. With today's equipment, that's not so bad. But back then, I only had ankle-high sneakers and knitted woolen boot tops from my mom. Those were the days 😉

#4 Upland Moor along the Goethe Trail

The picturesque views and legendary places in the Harz Mountains inspired Goethe's Faust. So it is obvious that a trail in the Harz Mountains is also named after the famous writer . The Goethe Trail is 16.3 km long and leads from Altenau via Torfhaus to the Brocken. The trail is particularly beautiful at the Abbegraben and the Großes Torfhausmoor. As soon as the high moor is reached, a wooden plank path branches off into the moor. In clear weather, you can see the Brocken particularly well from here.

The Torfhausmoor is located at an altitude of about 800 meters in an area with particularly high precipitation. As a rain moor, it is supplied exclusively by precipitation and by mineral salts from the air. It is about 30 hectares in size and has a peat layer that is over five meters thick and 10,000 years old. Peat was mined here from 1713 to 1786, hence the place name Torfhaus.

Raised bogs are low-mineral-salt, acidic and wet habitats. Everything that lives here must be adapted to these extreme conditions. These include sphagnum mosses, cotton grass, broom heath, dwarf birch or the round-leaved sundew. The fauna consists mainly of insects and frogs.

#5 Brocken Summit - the highest Mountain in the Harz Mountains

The Brocken is with 1141,2 meters the highest mountain in the Harz Mountains and also one of the highlights of the Hexenstieg. However, the climate up here is harsh, similar to that of Iceland or the high altitudes of the Alps. Heavy storms up to hurricane force are not uncommon here. In addition, it is the foggiest place in all of Germany: on more than 300 days a year, the summit is at least temporarily submerged in fog.

The Brocken summit is the only mountain in the German low mountain range above the timberline.

At the time of German division, the Brocken was located in the immediate border area. From August 1961 it became a restricted area and was no longer accessible to hikers. A three-meter-high wall surrounded the military summit. The listening stations set up here intercepted radio traffic in almost all of Western Europe.

After reunification, the Brocken summit was renaturalized at a cost of millions. The Harz narrow-gauge railroad also runs up to the summit again. If you want to stay longer than an afternoon, you can stay at the Brocken Hotel and a restaurant will take care of your physical well-being. In addition, the Brockenhaus houses the visitor center of the Harz National Park and the Brocken Garden.

#6 Brocken Railway

The Harz narrow gauge railroad is a "must see" for all visitors to the Harz mountains. You can see it especially well at the Brocken itself, of course, or at the stations Schierke and Drei Annen Hohne. Most of the time you can hear the steam train coming from far away or see the dark smoke of the locomotive in the distance.

Tip: If the Hexenstieg stage from Torfhaus to Drei Annen Hohne is too far for you, you can cheat a little and take the Brocken to Schierke and/or Schierke to Drei Annen Hohne with the Brockenbahn.

The meter-gauge route network of the Harz narrow-gauge railroads extends over a length of 140.4 km and is in operation all year round. In addition to the 19-kilometer-long Brockenbahn, there is also the Harzquerbahn and the Selketalbahn.

For the trip to the Brocken there is a uniform fare of 34 euros (one way) from all stations of the HSB. Current prices and information can be found here.

#7 Schierker Feuerstein: Schnapps and Granite Rocks

The village of Schierke is known for its witches and for the surrounding granite rocks, such as theFeuerstein, the Trudenstein or the Ahrendsklintklippe. But also on the drink menus the name Schierke appears again and again: as "Schierker Feuerstein". The herbal liqueur has tradition and definitely belongs in the picnic bag on this section of the Hexenstieg.

The recipe for Schierker Feuerstein was developed in 1908 by pharmacist Willy Drube in Schierke. The herbal liqueur was named after the Feuerstein cliffs in Schierke, because the reddish-brown color of the herbal liqueur is reminiscent of the reddish granite coloring of the cliffs.

Schierke was considered the "St. Moritz of the North". Only a few magnificent villas and hotel complexes remain from that time. During the German division, Schierke was called the "spa of the working people" from 1951.

Particularly beautiful places for a picnic are at the granite rocks that you can find around Schierke, such as at the Trudenstein.

#8 Rübeländer Dripstone Caves

There are several dripstone caves in the eastern Harz that are open to tourists. Two of these caves are located in the village of Rübeland: the Baumannshöhle and the Herrmannshöhle.

The Baumannshöhle is the oldest show cave in Germany. It is characterized by a special abundance of different dripstone formations. The largest cavity has even been turned into an underground natural stage where concerts and theater events take place. For more information on the program, admission and opening hours, visit the website of the Harz Caves.

The cave was already discovered in the 16th century by the miner Friedrich Baumann. Guided tours through the cave have been taking place since 1646. Today you can walk through the cave on your own and learn everything you need to know from information boards. To protect the stalactites and prevent accidents, photography in the cave is unfortunately not allowed.

Trekking boots, hiking poles, backpacks and everything else you might need for your tour on the Hexenstieg in the Harz Mountains can be found at Bergzeit.

#9 Suspension Bridge "Titan RT" over the Rappbode Dam

The suspension bridge over the Rappbode Dam is not directly on the Hexenstieg, but the small detour is worth it. After all, the "Titan RT" is the longest of its kind in the worldat the time of its completion with 458 meters. From the bridge you have a fantastic view of the Wendefurth reservoir and the gigantic concrete wall of the Rappbode dam.

The bridge hangs about 100 meters above the Rappboden valley. You have to be free from giddiness! Because the floor of the 1.2 meter wide bridge consists only of grating plates. And despite the stable anchorages with steel cables, the suspension rope bridge sways significantly. And if the adrenaline rush of walking on the bridge is not enough, there is a zipline and the pendulum jump "GigaSwing".

The suspension bridge is open all year round and daily from 8 am to 10 pm. You should allow about an hour for your visit. The bridge can only be used as a one-way route from northwest to southeast and is entered via turnstiles what can be tight with a hiking backpack.

In case of heavy rain, hail or a wind force over 6 Beaufort, the bridge is closed for safety reasons. More information can be found on the website of the suspension bridge.

#10 "Grand Canyon of the Harz" - Roßtrappe and Hexentanzplatz near Thale

The crowning glory of the Hexenstieg is the Roßtrappe and the Hexentanzplatz (Witches' Dance Place) in Thale. From here you have a view of the Bode Valley, which is one of the best hiking areas in the Harz and is rightly called the "Grand Canyon of the Harz" . Here you can end your hike with a relaxing drink. Both places are worthwhile and can either be hiked to or reached from Thale by chairlift or cable car . At both viewpoints there are restaurants where you can sit inside or outside.

The Rosstrappe is a 403 meter high granite rock on the left bank of the river Bode. On the rock there is a large depression that looks like a huge hoof print. According to legend, this imprint comes from the horse of the king's daughter Brunhilde. Fleeing from the giant Bodo, she drove her horse to jump over the valley. The horse's hoof dug deep into the rock as it landed. However, her pursuer fell during the jump into the river in the valley, which was henceforth called Bode.

I love such stories. In truth, however, the hoofprint is a man-made depression and probably belonged to a pre-Christian place of worship, possibly a sacrificial pool.

Located at an altitude of 450 meters, Hexentanzplatz (Witches' Dance Place) is probably one of the most legendary places in the eastern Harz Mountains. It is said that witches gather on this mountain plateau every year on Walpurgis Night and celebrate their rituals. Together they set off from here to the Brocken, where they then dance their devil's Sabbath around the blazing witches' fire.

Arrival and Departure to the Hexenstieg in the Harz Mountains

The starting and ending points of the Hexenstieg in the Harz Mountains are the towns of Osterode and Thale. Both are easy to reach by regional train or bus . Since the hike is a distance hike, getting there by public transportation makes the most sense. Otherwise, you would have to take a cab back to the starting point or face a lengthy bus ride with multiple transfers.

On the page of Hatix you can find an overview of the bus connections in the Harz.

A cab ride to the starting point takes about an hour. However, you also have to calculate waiting times, because the cab companies do not have so many vehicles in use. It's best to find out on the phone how much the ride will cost (about 140 euros).

Tip: Are you from Berlin? Then you can take the Harz-Berlin-Express (HBX) from Berlin to Thale and back in 3.5 hours without changing trains.

Signposts on the hiking route

The Hexenstieg is marked throughout. The hiking signs bear the name "Harzer-Hexen-Stieg" and show the direction and distance to the next intermediate destination. In the Harz National Park, the Hexenstieg is marked with the white witch in a green circle as a logo.

Hiking Map & Hiking Guide

You can order the map of the Hexenstieg in the Harz* and the hiking guides* at Amazon by clicking on the respective picture.

Accommodation

The available accommodations determine the length of each stage. Therefore, you should book as early as possible. We didn't do that and one of our stages was significantly longer as a result. Unfortunately, there is not a campground at each stage, so accommodations make the hike a bit more expensive.

Worthwhile and well located accommodations that I can recommend are for example:

• Buntenbock: Pension Holl und Boll Am Hexenstieg*
• Torfhaus: Torfhaus Harzresort*
• Brocken: Brocken Hotel
• Altenbrak: Pension & Restaurant “Zum Harzer Jodlermeister”*

If you prefer to travel only with a light daypack, you can also have your luggage transported between the accommodations. Either self-organized with the help of cabs or with a bookable tour, for example with Hiking in the Harz. Is only unfortunately significantly more expensive ... for two people from 990 euros.

Why the Hexenstieg is perfect for Beginners?

You are not sure if you can do the almost 100 kilometers? But you want to give it a try? Maybe even with a pack? Then the Hexenstieg in the Harz Mountains is just the right tour for you. Because if it should be too much, then you can also go a part by bus. And since you pay visitor's tax when you stay overnight in the Harz, the bus rides are even free for you. The only catch: especially on weekends there are not so many rides, so you have to plan ahead. In the worst case, you can also just take a cab to pick you up on the way.

Here again the bus line network: bus connections in the Harz.

Many hosts also offer support on request, for example luggage transport or shuttle rides to the start of the day's section. So you can adjust the length of your routes individually. In addition, there are always restaurants along the way where you can fortify yourself. So you need to take less provisions with you and you can also fill up on drinking water. You can see exactly where the restaurants are located on Google Maps or Maps.Me, for example. Attention: check beforehand whether the restaurant is open!

Tip: Do not forget to tell your accommodation if you arrive later in the evening. Often you hike longer than planned.

Book Recommendations for the Harz Mountains

You want to know where to go? Then I can recommend these hiking guides*.

You can order these books at Amazon with a click on the pictures. If you buy a product via one of these affiliate links, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you.

Do you know the Hexenstieg in the Harz Mountains and have you perhaps hiked it yourself? How did you like it there? Do you have any questions or suggestions about my article? If so, then write me a comment!

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Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love the long hikes as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about the Berlin Wall Trail or a Trekking Tour to the Greenlandic Ice Sheet.

Der Beitrag Harzer Hexenstieg – Highlights und Tipps für 100 km wandern im Harz erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Iceland. Vestmannaeyjar was once the scene of a devastating volcanic eruption. On the night of January 23, 1973, on the outskirts of the town of Vestmannaeyjabær, the earth cracked open and lava fountains shot into the black night sky. Eruptions followed for almost six months. Lava and ash destroyed 30% of the city. But new land was also created. Today you can walk on the cooled lava and even climb the volcano Eldfell in the south of Iceland. A museum worth seeing also informs about the devastating eruption.

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links.

What to expect in this Article

Fire Mountain and Fire World - On the Traces of the 1973 volcanic Eruption
Climbing Eldfell Volcano in Iceland
Visit of the Museum Eldheimar "World of Fire"
Walk through the "Lava Forest" Hraunskógur
What happened? The Eruption of Eldfell in 1973 on Heimaey

Fire Mountain and Fire World - On the Traces of the 1973 volcanic Eruption

Climbing Eldfell Volcano in Iceland

The approximately 200 meter high lava cone that was formed during the 1973 eruption has been appropriately named "Eldfell" . Translated, it means "mountain of fire". The currently dormant volcano is located just a few hundred meters outside the town of Vestmannaeyjabær and is one of the islands' most popular attractions. Many visitors to the Westman Islands hike the 1.7 kilometer Eldfell Hike to the summit. From there you have a fantastic view over the lava landscape, the town with the harbor and the surrounding mountains. It is also possible to walk around the crater. Most of the trails are marked with wooden stakes, but there are also unmarked trails.

When I started to climb the volcano Eldfell, the summit was hidden in low clouds - typical for Iceland. This gave the area an especially mystical atmosphere. But it cleared up every now and then and I could finally enjoy the view over the lava field and the city from the summit. But even without a view the summit is impressive, because the rock shines in bright rust red and sulfur yellow even on cloudy days.

You can find trekking boots, hiking poles, gloves and everything else you might need for your tour on the Eldfell volcano in Iceland at Bergzeit.

Visit of the Museum Eldheimar "World of Fire"

In the modern museum Eldheimar - the Pompeii of the North you can learn everything about the volcanic eruption of 1973. Eldheimar means "World of Fire". The heart of the museum is an excavated house that was previously completely buried under the lava of the volcanic eruption. The museum was built around the historic house, so to speak. It opened in 2014.

The historic house inside the museum was located in the former street Gerðisbraut 10, where Gerður Sigurðardóttir and Guðni Ólafsson lived with their three sons. They had to flee headlong from their home on the night of January 23, leaving their belongings behind. Some of them are still scattered around the ruins.

Using the audio guide, I continue through the exhibition. What is remarkable about the museum is that there are no overly long and tedious text panels to read. The museum is very visually oriented with many large-scale pictures, models and films about the dramatic events in 1973, and the audio guide conveys the content. Through the combination of seeing and hearing, I experienced the exhibition very intensively. Especially the sight of the destroyed house and the section about the evacuation touched me very much.

On the upper floor the museum continues with an interesting exhibition about the island of Surtsey. This was created during an earlier volcanic eruption in 1963-1967. From the beginning it has been protected and the natural development and colonization of the island by fauna and flora is documented. It is even included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. The tour through the exhibition finally ends in a small museum café.

Walk through the "Lava Forest" Hraunskógur

Hiking trails now lead across a bizarre lava landscape where there was still sea before 1973. In another 10 years, a forest may grow here. Hraunskógur is a 28-hectare reforestation area. Every year, volunteers and employees of the municipality plant about 4,000 tree cuttings (willows, spruces, poplars, elms). Numerous walking paths have also been created in the lava forest, leading over the rugged block lava covered with moss and lupines. It's a little bit like a labyrinth, but you can't seriously get lost here. On the contrary - it's really fun to get lost here.

I didn't get to see quite as much of the forest on my walk. But even without tall trees, this rugged lava landscape quickly became my favorite place on Heimaey. Even if it feels a bit strange to walk here. Because houses and streets are buried under the lava layer, which is on average 40 meters thick.

Finally, a bit of history:

What happened? The Eruption of Eldfell in 1973 on Heimaey

Lava Fountains and Ash Fall

The eruption was unexpected. At night, at 1:55 a.m. on January 23, 1973, the earth cracked open on the outskirts of the town. The fissure, about 300 meters long, quickly grew to about 1,600 meters. Lava fountains shot up to 150 meters into the night sky from 30 to 40 craters. Lava flows overflowed the eastern end of the city and ash fell on the entire island. The event shook not only the Icelanders. It was broadcast on television all over the world.

Why did no one foresee the eruption? There had been a series of weak earthquakes in the days before. Shortly before the eruption, they even reached 2.7 on the Richter scale, but that's probably not unusual at the edges of lithospheric plates. Besides, there has been no volcanic activity here for 5,000 years.

Evacuation of the Inhabitants

Thanks to a storm the day before, the entire fishing fleet of Heimaey was in port. Thus, the evacuation of the islanders could start immediately. Already half an hour after the beginning of the eruption, the first boat left the harbor. Within six hours, all 5,300 inhabitants were safe. Only a few stayed behind to perform urgent tasks or rescue valuables from their homes. One of these tasks was to slaughter the cattle. Because the grass was covered with ash, there was nothing left to eat on the island.

Volcanic eruptions also produce toxic fumes. These are heavier than air and collect in dips. A man died after inhaling such fumes in the basement of the pharmacy. Several people were injured by the gases.

Cooling the Lava

The Westman Islands live from fishing. The port of Vestmannaeyjabær is even the most important fishing port in all of Iceland and, so to speak, the lifeline of the Westman Islands. Now the lava flow was flowing incessantly towards the harbor and threatened to close it. This would have been a disaster. Firefighters began to cool the edges of the glowing lava with seawater, thus slowing it down. When the first attempts already showed positive results, bigger guns were brought in: The ship Sandey pumped 400 l/s onto the lava. In addition, water pipes were laid on the lava crust in daring actions. In the end, 32 converted oil pumps from America were used, capable of pumping 1,000 l/s. In total, about 6.2 million tons of seawater were pumped onto the lava for cooling. With success: the harbor entrance remained free and is now even better protected by the new lava walls, which are up to 40 m high.

Destruction and Formation of new Land

At the beginning of the eruptions, houses near the fissure were destroyed by lava or pyroclastics. Despite the efforts of many helpers to shovel the fallen ash from the roofs of houses, many collapsed under the weight. Others were buried beneath the advancing lava or ignited by lava bombs. It was not until early February that the precipitation of pyroclastics subsided. However, persistent lava flows continued to cause destruction. In the end, an average 40-meter-thick layer of lava covered parts of the city. In some places, the layer was even up to 100 meters thick.

Only after about six months, on July 3, 1973, the eruptions were over. In total, 60% of the houses on Heimaey were damaged in the eruption. A little more than half could be saved. But about 400 houses were completely destroyed. In addition, the power plant and a fish processing factory were destroyed, as well as submarine supply lines from the main island.

The volcanic eruption created the Eldfell cinder cone, which is about 200 meters high. In addition, the area of the island grew by about 2.0 square kilometers.

Cleanup

Cleanup began immediately after the end of the eruption in July 1973. It was a mammoth task to clear the houses and roads and make the island habitable again. After a year, about 50% of the former inhabitants had returned to the island, and by March 1975, 80%. Today, about 4,500 people live on Heimaey, 800 fewer than before the Eldfell eruption.

The heat stored under the lava is used for energy and hot water production, and the pyroclastics are used as building material. Land was filled up with it in the sea, on which 200 houses were built.

Book Recommendations for Iceland

Do you want to know where the journey is going? Then I can recommend this travel guides* to you.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. This does not make the product more expensive for you.

Guided Tours in Iceland

You don't feel like wandering around on your own and would rather join a guided tour in Iceland? Nothing could be easier. If you book an excursion via the following affiliate links, you will support Wanderlust Motifs with a small commission. The tour will not be more expensive for you. Merci!

Do you know the volcano Eldfell on the Westman Islands in Iceland? How did you like it there? Do you have any questions or suggestions to my article? If yes, then write me a comment! Eldfell auf den Westmännerinseln in Island? Wie hat es euch dort gefallen? Habt ihr noch Fragen oder Anregungen zu meinem Artikel? Wenn ja, dann schreibt mir doch einen Kommentar!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love the Scandinavian countries as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about the Kayak Tour in the Swedish Archipelago or a Trekking Tour to the Greenlandic Ice Sheet.

Der Beitrag Pompeji von Island – Ausflug zum Vulkan Eldfell der Westmännerinseln erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.