Nairobi, Kenya. "I had a farm in Africa, at the foot of the Ngong Mountains." This is the beginning of one of the most beautiful Africa films ever produced. The basis for the film " Out of Africa" is the novel "The African Farm", which Karen Blixen wrote in Denmark in 1937. The farmhouse where Karen Blixen lived for 17 years and where parts of the film were shot is now a museum. When you visit, you feel transported to another time and could almost think that you are suddenly in the middle of this fantastic film yourself. An absolute "must" for all fans. On a guided tour through the museum you will learn many interesting things about the life of Karen Blixen on the coffee farm on the edge of the Ngong Mountains.

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Who was Karen Blixen?

Karen Blixen was born in 1885 and grew up in Rungsted on the coast of Denmark. At 29, she married her Swedish half-cousin, Baron Bror von Blixen-Finecke. They both had a great love of adventure in common. They soon left Denmark to start a new life in Kenya. The couple bought the Mbogani farmhouse near the Ngong Mountains in 1917. This became the heart of their 4500 hectare farm with the approximately 600 hectare coffee plantation. Karen ran the farm almost alone, while her spouse preferred to enjoy big game hunting. More than 1000 people worked for her, there was medical care and even a school.

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But the coffee farm was not doing very well. It was located at about 2,000 meters, too high for coffee cultivation, and the soil was also too acidic. Drought, plagues of locusts, floods, epidemics and a fire repeatedly presented Karen Blixen with new challenges. The marriage did not go well either, and they finally divorced in 1925.

Karen continued to run the financially struggling farm on her own. Finally, Karen found new happiness in her relationship with the Englishman Denys Finch Hatton. But the happiness was short-lived: in 1931 Denys crashed his plane in Tsavo West National Park and died. In the same year, Karen finally had to sell her coffee farm at a forced auction. She then left Kenya and returned to the family estate in Rungsted. There she devoted herself to writing and published several major works. In 1937, she finally published her book "The African Farm." In 1962, Karen Blixen died in Denmark at the age of 77. More than 20 years later, in 1985, her novel was made into a film starring Meryl Streep, Robert Redford and Klaus Maria Brandauer. The film "Out of Africa" won several Oscars and made the Danish author world famous.

Karen Blixen's pseudonym on the German book market is usually Tania Blixen. Her English-language books, on the other hand, mostly appeared under the pseudonym Isak Dinesen.

The Karen Blixen Museum

In 1964, the Danish government purchased the farmhouse where Karen Blixen lived from 1917 to 1931 and donated it to Kenya to celebrate its independence from Great Britain. The property was initially used as a home economics school. In 1985, filming for "Out of Africa" began here. Subsequently, the National Museums of Kenya acquired the property to open a museum here.

With the help of a donation from the film production company Universal Films, the house was renovated and furnished in the style of the time. For this purpose, it was even possible to buy back many pieces of furniture that Karen Blixen had sold before she left Africa. In addition to furniture, furnishings and hunting trophies, old photos and books are on display. Furthermore, the bronze bust of Karen Blixen, made by the artist Harald Isenstein, can be admired. Today, the house offers a unique insight into the everyday life of the coffee farmer.

The museum consists of the old Mbogani main house, a separate kitchen building, a coffee drying area and a large park-like garden. Between tall eucalyptus trees and palms, old carts and individual farm implements from long ago are on display. The flat bungalow with its verandas, however, is smaller than I expected. It was built in 1912 according to plans by Swedish architect Ake Sjogren. At that time, the capital Nairobi was still about 10 kilometers away. Today, the city's suburbs have grown up around the former farm. Now, mainly ministers and government officials live in the upscale suburb of Karen.

From the property you have a good view of the peaks of the Ngong Mountains, where Karen Blixen had her lover Dennis Finch Hatton buried in 1931.

The museum is open daily from 9:30 to 18:00.
Guided tours are offered continuously.
Unfortunately, photography is not allowed inside the museum.
More information on the website of National Museums of Kenya.

Tip: After the Karen Blixen Museum, visit the Giraffe Centre Nairobi.It is also located in the suburb of Karen and is known for the conservation breeding of the endangered Rothschild giraffes.

Book recommendations for Kenya

Do you want to know where the journey is going? Then I can recommend this travel guides* to you.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Do you know the Karen Blixen Museum in Nairobi? How did you like it? Do you have any questions or suggestions regarding my article? If so, please write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

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Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love historic buildings that tell stories as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about a Visit to the Bradbury Building in Los Angeles or Haus Schwarzenberg, a Street Art Hotspot in Berlin.

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Stages of the Chogoria-Sirimon route to Point Lenana

1. to Meru Bandas Camp at Chogoria Gate (2950 m) 3 hours, 10 km, 950 m ascent
2. Meru Bandas - Chogoria Roadhead (3.300 m) 3 hours, 9 km, 350 m ascent
3. Chogoria Roadhead - Camp Mintos (4.300 m) 4 hours, 12 km, 1000 m ascent
4. Camp Mintos - Austrian Hut (4.700 m) 4 hours, 7 km, 400 m ascent
5. Summit day: Austrian Hut - Point Lenana - Camp Moses (3.300 m) 8 hours, 20 km, 285 m ascent - 1.400 m descent
6. Camp Moses - Sirimon Gate (2660 m) 2,5 hours, 9 km, 680 m descent

Tip: Many hikers also climb Point Lenana in 5 days. This is doable, but means that stage 4 and 5 are combined. Start is then at 2 o'clock at night and arrival at the camp around 7 or 8 o'clock in the evening. That means one of the most beautiful parts of the route you walk in the dark and see nothing! Doing the tour in 6 days is much more relaxed. And for acclimatization, an extra day is also an advantage.

Day 1: to Meru Bandas Camp at Chogoria Gate

The starting point of the Chogoria Route is - of course - the Chogoria Gate near the town of Chogoria. At Chogoria Gate is also our first camp "Meru Bandas". A bumpy dirt road leads through dense bamboo forest to here. But our Land Cruiser takes us only a short distance, the remaining 10 kilometers we walk. From now on it is only uphill. The camp is already at an altitude of 2,950 meters, but we still don't notice the thin air.

Did you know? Even after acclimatization, your fitness level drops by about 10% for every 1,500 meters of altitude!

At the huts of the camp lives also a troop of monkeys. They inspect everything they can get their hands on. There are also buffalos that roam the camp from time to time. Therefore, it is mandatory that you do not leave your hut at night.

Tip: If you don't want to start your altitude acclimatization at zero, spend two days in the Ol Pejeta Conservancy at an altitude of about 1,800 meters beforehand. There is a lot to discover there.

Day 2: Meru Bandas - Chogoria Roadhead

Before we leave, there are a few things to take care of: All visitors to the national park have to register at Chogoria Gate. And since we are traveling in the middle of Covid time, everyone also has their temperature taken.

On the second day the landscape becomes more interesting. We first still follow the dirt road that leads up to Lake Ellis. It goes through forest and over lush green meadows. The trees are densely covered with lichen, which indicates particularly clean air.

At about 3,200 meters we have reached the tree line. Now begins a scrubland with perennials and tall grasses. A long time ago there was a big fire here. We still see charred remains between the green bushes. Some charred flowers look like small works of art.

Later we turn off the track and walk a trail with a picturesque view. Our destination is Camp Chogoria Roadhead at an altitude of 3,300 meters.

“Go high, sleep low”

Climbing high and sleeping low is excellent for acclimatization. Therefore, after arriving at camp and having some refreshments, we took a walk of about 1.5 hours to Lake Ellis. It is located about 150 meters above our camp and is a real gem.

Day 3 - Christmas Eve: Chogoria Roadhead - Camp Mintos

We follow a ridge further and further up the mountain. Along the way there are always fantastic views over the dramatic "Gorgeous Valley" and the moorland. The higher we get, the more the scenery changes. I can't help but think of a lunar landscape. The bushes that were still growing at Lake Ellis have now given way to lobelia and greiseweed. The clouds hang low over the mountains. What a mystical atmosphere! Shortly before reaching camp, hail begins to fall. Merry Christmas!!! Good that the porters have already set up our tent and we can slip right in.

Camp Mintos is located at an altitude of 4,300 meters. We had an ascent of 1,000 meters, which is clearly too much. Above an altitude of 2,500 meters, the overnight altitude should be increased by no more than 500 meters each day. We have a slight headache, rest and do breathing exercises. We also drink like world champions. With the result that we crawl out of the tent 6 (!) times during the night. It is starry. In front of us we can make out the contours of Point Lenana. A row of small lights moves up the mountain. I'm tired, but my stomach is tingling with anticipation.

Christmas 2020 - Hot tea, Popcorn and Ibuprofen

Christmas Eve is always special. You get cozy and eat something delicious. The two Christmas holidays are usually similar, but it's all about sitting and eating. Maybe you go for a little walk.

How was our Christmas in 2020? Exactly the same. Only our walks were a little longer and steeper. We made ourselves comfortable in the tent. And when we weren't being spoiled by our cook with delicious food, hot tea or popcorn, we were wrapped up warm in our sleeping bags. We ceremoniously unwrapped the Ibuprofen tablets - and that was it with the presents. No, wait. The gift we gave ourselves was the trip itself. And it was especially precious in 2020, because we were traveling during the Covid pandemic.

Why we were traveling during the pandemic?

First, my partner and I have a long distance relationship Germany - California. To see each other, we have to travel. Second: one can also travel responsibly, which means FFP-2 mask on or keep distance, wash hands. And just don't go to crowds and beach parties. Third: my heart bleeds when I see how much the whole tourism industry suffers and everything that is connected to it. Last but not least: we had a terrible wanderlust.

DRINK! One of the most important rules in mountaineering.

The daily water requirement is normally 2.5 liters, but at very high altitudes this can increase to 5 to 8 liters! This is due in particular to the increased breathing activity. This is because the body loses a lot of fluid during the necessary humidification of the usually cold and dry breathing air at high altitudes.

Small consolation for all those who have to "go out" at night: Increased urination is considered an indication of good altitude adaptation.

What happens if you drink too little? Our body reacts at altitude with an increased production of red blood cells. Combined with insufficient fluid intake, this can lead to thickening of the blood and therefore to a danger to life due to the formation of blood clots.

Attention: between Camp Chogoria Roadhead and Mintos there is no water source. So you have to take all water with you. For this you need enough bottles. I had only two 1 liter bottles with me. That was not enough. Our guide was very kind and gave us an extra bottle.

Day 4: Camp Mintos - Austrian Hut

We start the day with a side trip to the "Temple". This is a 150 meter high vertical cliff. It gets its name from the position visitors often take when they look over the edge - they look like they are praying.

We continue along steep rock faces and reach the alpine zone. Here no more grows. The steep climbs are only going up at a snail's pace. Even the hail that starts does not manage to drive us. Only when it starts to thunderstorm, we go faster. We are unprotected on the mountain flank.

A sign shows us the way: another 400 meters to the Austrian Hut. There is no path, we climb over snow-covered rocks and are amazed at how far 400 meters can be. But the joy when we arrive at the hut is all the greater: we have it all to ourselves and there is already hot tea and cookies. And the best: my headache is gone. But now my hands are swollen. But even that gets better after a while.

Day 5 - Summit Day: Austrian Hut - Point Lenana - Camp Moses

Our summit day starts at 4:30 with cookies and coffee. Breakfast is later, after the summit. I am excited. We leave at 5:00 so we can reach Point Lenana at sunrise. It is dark. Only our headlamps light the way. That is - there is no path at all. We climb over snowy rocks and I follow the footprints of our guide John. He knows every rock up here and could probably climb the summit with his eyes closed. In the upper section it gets steeper. Here, cables are stretched, to which we can hold on.

Why am I doing this?

A brief review: On the third day of our tour, we climbed from 3,300 meters to 4,300 meters. With every meter of altitude, a question took up more space in my head. Why am I doing this? Why am I climbing this mountain? It's exhausting, at altitude one feels terrible, one hardly sleeps and has a headache. Besides, it's cold, especially at night when you have to go out for the sixth time. Why?

Shortly below the summit we stop and look to the east. The dark sky has already turned into a vivid orange. Slowly, the sun rises as a glowing ball on the horizon, giving contour to the black and white landscape below. In the distance we see the clouds hanging over Kilimanjaro. The sun has also brought with it an answer to my question, "Why?" I see the answer quite clearly before my eyes. At least until the tears of joy come to my eyes. It was exactly this moment that drew me to the mountain, that makes me forget all my efforts, that enchants me and fills me with joy.

I try to capture this unique moment with my camera. But one thing you can not see in the photos: I have tears of joy in my eyes. I have rarely seen anything so beautiful!

When we reach the summit, other groups are already posing for summit photos. We line up and enjoy the wide view over the mountain. After what feels like an eternity, we manage to tear ourselves away and begin the descent to breakfast at Shipton's Camp at 4,236m.

Downhill to Christmas Breakfast

But it still takes a while until breakfast, the descent is long. First we climb down over the rocks, then it goes steeply down in serpentines. The snow makes the path slippery and I am glad that my two trekking poles give me some grip. From up here we overlook the enchanting Mackinder Valley. It is a surreal sight, an unreal landscape: under the towering white peaks grow lobelia and giant groundsel, partly covered with snow. A small mountain stream flows next to the path, gently babbling away. All the time we can see Shipton's Camp as a small dot in the valley. Only slowly it takes shape.

After a hearty breakfast, we continue downhill for about 5 hours to Old Moses Camp. The trail is easy to walk and offers enough time to enjoy the fascinating landscape. To celebrate, we surprise our cook and porters at the camp with Tusker beer.

Day 6: Camp Moses - Sirimon Gate

Our last day. From Old Moses Camp we walk through high moorland, heath and bamboo zone and finally reach a dense mountain forest. A herd of buffalo crosses the road in front of us and quickly disappears into the thicket again. 

We leave the park at Sirimon Gate and start our safari tour through several national parks in Kenya. Now it's wildlife time! But we often look back - Mount Kenya can still be seen on the horizon for a long time.

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Would I repeat the Ascent of Point Lenana?

Trekking through the Mount Kenya countryside and climbing one of the highest points in Africa was an intense and incredibly rewarding challenge. Would I repeat the tour? Absolutely! If there weren't all the other beautiful mountains in the world. Barely a day after we were down from Mount Kenya, we couldn't wait to make plans to discover the next mountain.

More Tips for the Ascent of Point Lenana

The route Chogoria-Sirimon is well doable for fit hikers, you should be surefooted and free of giddiness. Technical climbing skills are not necessary. On the mountain it is windy and cold, in the afternoon it can rain - therefore good equipment is indispensable. Have a look at my Packing List for Mount Kenya .

Drinking water: Either fresh water from streams with water disinfection tablets Micropur Forte or boiled water. PET plastic bottles are not allowed in Mount Kenya National Park. We each used two 1-liter Nalgene bottles.

Electricity: On the way up the mountain there is no electricity to charge phone / camera. Spare batteries or a (solar) powerbank will ensure power supply. In particular, the batteries for the headlamp should still be sufficiently charged on summit day. Batteries discharge faster in the cold, it is best to take the batteries with you in your sleeping bag at night.

Temperature: from 3000 meters the daytime temperatures are between 5 and 15 ° C, at night there can be frost. Night temperatures at the summit are well below freezing.

Toilets: In the camps there are simple toilets, that is a hole in the ground. On the way there are bush toilets. Be sure to stay at least 50 meters away from water sources. More importantly, put your used toilet paper in a trash bag you brought with you!

Book recommendations for Kenya

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books* about Kenya.

You can order the books at Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product through one of these affiliate links, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you and you do me a huge favor.

Do you have a favorite mountain? Which one is it? Do you have any questions or suggestions about my article? If yes, then write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love mountains as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about a Trekking Tour around Mount Kailash in Tibet or about Climbing the Half Dome in Yosemite National Park, California.

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But first of all: we cheated. Because we didn't have to carry everything up the mountain ourselves. In addition to our guide, we were accompanied by a cook and three porters who took care of the tents, cooking equipment and all the food. In addition, each of us was able to hand over 10 kg of personal luggage. We gave our big trekking backpacks to the porters and walked only with daypacks. Everything we didn't need during the ascent of Point Lenana we could deposit in a duffel bag at our tour provider Go To Mount Kenya and Natural World Kenya Safaris Safaris.

Garments

• Rain jacket and rain trousers
• warm down jacket
• a fleece sweater
• a merino wool longsleeve
• two merino wool t-shirts
• Softshell pants
• Underwear, including thermal underwear for top and bottom (also for sleeping)
• Baseball cap for sun protection
• Cap, buff, scarf
• warm, waterproof gloves
• Ankle-high trekking boots

Camping

• Warm sleeping bag, for example Glacier 1000 from Mountain Equipment.
• Insulation mattress with a high insulation value (R-value), for example the super-light ThermaRest NeoAir XTherm*with an R-value of 6.9

Toiletries and First Aid Kit

• Sunscreen (50+) and protection for the lips
• Throat lozenges against a dry throat in the high altitude air
• Mineral tablets, for example Isostar
• Ibuprofen
• If necessary, sea salt nasal spray (my nose is very dried out due to the increased breathing)
• Water disinfection tablets Micropur Forte*
• Wet wipes as a bathroom substitute
• Personal hygiene items (toothbrush, toothpaste, hairbrush, scrunchies...)
• Medicine against diarrhea, for example Immodium Akut
• First aid pack incl. emergency blanket and blister plaster
• Personal medicines
• Tissues and toilet paper

Technical Equipment

• Headlamp, for example the Petzl Aktik* and spare batteries if necessary.
• Cell phone and charging cable
• Headphones for music or audio games
• Solar-Powerbank*
• Camera with spare batteries - here you can have a look at my camera equipment werfen

What else?

• Sunglasses with high UV protection or glacier glasses, for example the CEBE Everest*
• Emergency bivy sack, for example the Ultralite Bivi from Mountain Equipment*
• Two 1-liter wide-mouth bottles, for example from Nalgene*
• Two trekking poles, for example Leki Sherpa XTG*
• If necessary a pack of cards
• Garbage bags
• Snacks

Book recommendations for Kenya

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books* about Kenya.

You can order the books at Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product through one of these affiliate links, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you and you do me a huge favor.

Do you have any other tips or questions about my packing list for Mount Kenya? If yes, then write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love mountains as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about a Trekking Tour around Mount Kailash in Tibet or about Climbing the Half Dome in Yosemite National Park, California.

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Content

Highlights of the Ascent of Point Lenana on Mount Kenya
Mount Kenya - holy Mountain with heavenly Landscape
At a Glance - Facts and Figures
Route Chogoria - Sirimon on Mount Kenya
Book recommendations for Kenya

Highlights of the Ascent of Point Lenana on Mount Kenya

Which moments of the mountain climb do I remember most? That's quite a few. But here I have picked out a few highlights.

• Sunrise and fantastic views from the third highest peak Point Lenana at 4,985 meters - on a clear day you can see all the way to Kilimanjaro.
• Spectacular scenery and changing vegetation zones during the crossing of the mountain massif make the tour varied.
• The routes as well as the duration of the tour allows a good acclimatization to the altitude.
• Hiking through or overlooking two of the most beautiful valleys on Mount Kenya, the "Mackinder Valley" and the "Gorgeous Valley".
• Curious hyraxes at Camp Mintos
• Surreal looking landscape, where the lobelia and the tree-greiskraut are partly covered with snow.
• Last but not least: the great feeling of being back down from the mountain and enjoying breakfast at Camp Shipton (4.236 m) with a view of the just reached summit Lenana.

Come touch the sky! You want to get to the summit right away? Here is a shortcut.

Mount Kenya - holy Mountain with heavenly Landscape

In the central highlands of Kenya rises the massif of Mount Kenya. With a height of 5,199 meters, Mount Kenya is the highest mountain in the country and also the second highest elevation in all of Africa.

Snow on the Equator

The German missionary Dr. Johann Ludwig Krapf was the first European to set eyes on the mountain massif in 1849. When he reported snow on the equator after his return, this was dismissed as a sensory illusion.

But he was right: almost all the peaks of the massif are above the snow line and the areas between the highest peaks are glaciated.

However, climate change is also evident here on Mount Kenya - the glaciers have become significantly smaller in recent decades. The reason is the warming and the decrease of precipitation.

A heavenly Landscape

Mount Kenya is a stratovolcano and was formed about 3.5 million years ago. The landscape is rugged with steep rock faces, rugged valleys, crater lakes, waterfalls and glaciers.  

During the ascent of Point Lenana we cross several vegetation zones. First, the mountain slopes are covered with fields and forest up to about 2,000 meters above sea level. The humid mountain rainforests are replaced by evergreen cloud forests with increasing altitude. This is followed by a densely vegetated bamboo zone. The tree line is at about 3,200 meters. From here to about 4,000 meters, a lush vegetation of tall grasses, shrubs and bushes thrives. At higher elevations, marshland dominates.Here grow blueberry and bushy heather, which can grow up to 10 meters high. in the subsequent alpine zone grow only giant lobelia and giant groundsel.

From about 4,500 meters the summit landscape with several glaciers follows. The three main peaks of Mount Kenya are Batian (5,199 m), Nelion (5,189 m) and Lenana (4,985 m). They are named after three important Maasai chiefs.

Throne of God

The mountain massif of Mount Kenya is sacred because it is considered the throne of the god Ngai wa Kirinyaga (God of Kirinyaga). The legend says that after the god created the world, he divided the land among the people. He showed a man named Kikuyu from the top of Mount Kenya the land that was to be his. When Kikuyu finally returned to the foot of Mount Kenya, he met a woman. Her female children became the first mothers of the nine Kikuyu tribes.

At a Glance - Facts and Figures

• Length: about 67 kilometers
• Height difference: about 3.000 meters
• Highest point: Point Lenana with 4.985 meters, third highest peak of Mount Kenya
• Duration: with us 6 days, also possible in 5 days
• Season: All year round. End of March to mid-May and end of October to mid-December have the highest rainfall.
• Difficulty: strenuous high mountain tour of several days; no technical ascent but surefootedness, no fear of heights and normal fitness required
• Tour provider: for example Go to Mount Kenya with guide, cook and porters
• Accommodation: Tent and huts
• Other: All visitors must sign in at the beginning of the tour and sign out at departure. Hiking alone is prohibited. Fires are not allowed. Waste must be packed and taken with you.

Route Chogoria - Sirimon on Mount Kenya

There are several routes to Point Lenana. Two of the most beautiful and scenically spectacular are the Chogoria and Sirimon Routes. On a length of about 67 kilometers the mountain massif is crossed from east to west and there are about 3,000 meters of altitude to overcome.

Now we go into detail and to many more practical tips for the trekking tour and the adaptation to the altitude:

Book recommendations for Kenya

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books* about Kenya.

You can order the books at Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product through one of these affiliate links, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you and you do me a huge favor.

Do you have a favorite mountain? Which one is it? Do you have any questions or suggestions about my article? If yes, then write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love mountains as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about a Trekking Tour around Mount Kailash in Tibet or about Climbing the Half Dome in Yosemite National Park, California.

Der Beitrag Mount Kenya – hoch hinaus auf den Point Lenana erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Kenya. Do you want to see red elephants? In the national parks of Kenya you will always experience new surprises. This is also the case in Tsavo National Park, the largest and one of the oldest parks in the country. A special feature of the park are its red elephants. Here you can find out what the red elephants are all about and what else you can see in Tsavo National Park.

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With a total area of 21,812 km², Tsavo National Park is the largest of all national parks in Kenya. It is located in the southeast of the country and was established on April 1, 1948 . A year later it was divided into Tsavo West and the slightly larger Tsavo East. The border is formed by the Nairobi-Mombasa highway, which cuts through the park. Another border within the park is formed by the Galana River. All areas north of the river are not accessible for visitors.

Two parks with almost the same name but quite different appearances. But more about that later. Now first to the red elephants.

Why are the Elephants in Tsavo National Park red?

Many visitors come to Tsavo National Park to see the red elephants. The elephants are naturally as gray as all other elephants. The red color comes from the park's red soil, which is rich in iron oxide. The elephants love to cover themselves with the red soil in mud and dust baths. These baths help the elephants keep their skin cool and protect themselves from insects and parasites.

And best of all, the chances of you actually seeing the red elephants are extremely good. Because Tsavo is home to Kenya's largest elephant population, which is about one third of the total population.

Wildlife in Tsavo National Park

The "Man-Eaters" of Tsavo

Tsavo National Park is not only known for its large elephant population, but also for its lions - the "man-eaters". It was in 1898 when two lions terrified the construction workers of the East African Railway for months. They came mostly at night and dragged the workers out of their tents. 135 people are said to have fallen victim to them before the lions were eventually shot and made into carpets. Today, the lions can be seen stuffed in the Chicago Field Museum. Based on bone samples, however, it is recently assumed that there were "only" about 35 victims.

Interesting: Male lions in Tsavo National Park have no or only very sparse manes. Nobody knows exactly why. But it is assumed that it is an adaptation to the hot climate.

You want to see more safari photos?
Then have a look at my photo website.
Here you come to the gallery “Big Five & Co”.

Impressive Biodiversity

Tsavo offers a breathtaking variety of landscape, nature and animals. With a little luck you can see all the "Big Five", elephants, rhinos, buffalos, lions and leopards. But besides the Big Five there are also many other animals. Typical species are those that are well adapted to dry savannah regions. These are for example giraffes, oryx antelopes, grant gazelles or giraffe gazelles. There are also zebras, lesser kudus, waterbucks, impalas, dik-diks, hippos, crocodiles, turtles and many other species. Monkeys are also represented with guenons and baboons. These like to hang around the lodges waiting for an opportunity to snatch something edible. Also the hyraxes like to linger at the lodges and are nice to watch.

Tip: Tsavo is a birdwatching paradise, with some 600 species. Among them are ostriches, buzzards, kingfishers, hornbills, herons, skimmers, hawks, golden-breasted starlings and palm-nut vultures - to name just a few.

Poaching

In Tsavo National Park, too, poaching in the 1980s led to catastrophic population declines. For example, the elephant population declined from 40,000 animals in the 1970s to barely 5,000 in 1989 . During these years, the total population of elephants throughout Kenya shrank to a quarter. Only after a global ban on ivory trade went into effect in 1989 did populations slowly recover.

However, it was even worse for black rhinos. Between the 1970s and 1980s, 95% of the total population in Kenya was poached. By 1989, the species was nearly extinct.

Today, about 80 black rhinos live in the Ngulia Rhino Sanctuary , fenced off and closely guarded from poachers. The area is densely overgrown with bushes, so it is difficult to see the animals from the outside. Unfortunately, there is no possibility for visitors to visit the sanctuary.

Tsavo West and Tsavo East - what is the Difference?

Tsavo West National Park

Tsavo West National Park is scenically one of the most beautiful parks in Kenya. It encompasses a variety of different landscapes: Mountains and rocky ridges, the crystal clear Mzima Spring with narrow gallery forest, scrublands and acacia forests, as well as a solidified lava flow and extinct volcanic cones. On clear days there is also a fantastic view as far as Kilimanjaro.

In the morning, fog often hangs over the densely forested mountain tops. But the mountainous landscape and the dense vegetation also have a disadvantage: one discovers less animals. The best chance to see animals is when they are standing on the track. This is what the antelopes and also the zebras like to do, because there they feel halfway safe. This is due to the fact that even they can hardly see in the thicket if a predator is approaching. So you should bring some patience and not be disappointed if you don't see so many animals. But the great landscape more than makes up for it.

Leopard Feeding

There is a special highlight every evening around 7 pm at Ngulia Safari Lodge. For several years, a piece of meat has been laid out for a leopard at an established feeding station here. From the open balcony of the restaurant you have a good view. But honestly: I don't think much of such feedings. Nevertheless, I went to see it. However, I was quite creeped out when the leopard fixed me directly. He gnawed on the bone for a long time and still looked very hungry to me. What if he just jumped up on the balcony and wanted to eat more? When I shared my concern with our guide, he said that the leopard can't see through the bright lighting between the feeding area and the restaurant and therefore won't hunt through. That reassured me for the time being. But during the whole evening I kept an eye on the surroundings. 

Mzima Springs

Another highlight of Tsavo West National Park is the Mzima Springs. This crystal clear spring is fed daily from the Chyulu Hills with 250 million liters of water underground.

Mzima is Kiswahili and means "life." There can hardly be a more appropriate name. After all, the spring attracts many wild animals. On a short guided tour you can observe crocodiles and hippos. From an underwater viewing platform you can see for yourself how clear the water is.

Shetani Lava Flow

Nicht weit von den Chyulu Hills wird die rot-grüne Landschaft plötzlich schwarz. Hier wird Tsavo West von einem spektakulären schwarzen Lavastrom durchzogen. Die letzte Eruption des Shetani war vor rund 200 Jahren. Heute bedeckt der Lavastrom eine Fläche von etwa 50 Quadratkilometern. Shetani ist Kiswahili und bedeutet “Teufel”. Denn als die Dorfbewohner sahen, wie brennende Lava aus der Erde hervorquoll, dachten sie, der Teufel kommt.

Tsavo East National Park

Tsavo East is Kenya's largest national park, covering 11,747 square kilometers. Running through the park is the Yatta Plateau, a lava field 300 kilometers long. It is the longest lava field in the world.

The park is wild and rugged, and impresses with excellent wildlife viewing opportunities. Here the landscape is much drier, flatter and not as dramatic as Tsavo West. The vegetation is dominated by open, thorny scrubland and semi-desert. This has the advantage that the animals are much easier to spot.

We were accommodated at Voi Safari Lodge and were therefore right on the border between the mountain and the plains. From the lodge we had a great view over the plain and on a few waterholes.

Tip for photographers: In the garden of Voi Safari Lodge you can take excellent pictures of lizards. And if you walk all the way down the stairs behind the pool, you will come to a photo hide right next to one of the waterholes.

The best Time to Visit

The park is open all year round and always accessible. Opening hours are 6:00 am to 6:00 pm. In designated areas you can even explore the park on foot accompanied by a Kenya Wildlife Service ranger.

Rainy season: October to January and March to May
Dry season: June to October and January to early March

If you prefer greener scenery, want the best views of Kilimanjaro, and also like bird watching, then you should go during the rainy season. However, if you prefer to see larger wildlife, then you should visit the park during the dry season. The animals are then easier to see when they venture to the rivers and waterholes. There is also a better chance of seeing animals at the waterholes set up by the lodges.

Tip: Tsavo National Park is very easy to reach from Mombasa and can therefore be perfectly combined with a beach holiday on the coast.

Book recommendations for Kenya

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books* about Kenya.

You can order the books at Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product through one of these affiliate links, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you and you do me a huge favor.

Wart ihr schon mal im Tsavo Nationalpark und habt die roten Elefanten gesehen? Oder vielleicht sogar einen der “Menschenfresser”? Habt ihr noch Fragen oder Anregungen zu meinem Artikel? Wenn ja, dann schreibt mir doch einen Kommentar!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love wildlife encounters as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about The Reindeer of the Cairngorms in Scotland or about the Beluga Whales of the Solowezki Islands.

Der Beitrag Tsavo Nationalpark – das Reich der Roten Elefanten erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links*.

Highlights of a Safari in Amboseli National Park
Profile Amboseli National Park
Best Time for a Safari in Amboseli National Park
Dream View of the highest Mountain in Africa
Amboseli - the Home of the Elephants
Lions in Amboseli Park
The Swamp Enkong'u Narok - Bird Paradise and Bathtub

You want to see more safari photos?
Then have a look at my photo website.
Here you come to the gallery “Big Five & Co”.

Highlights of a Safari in Amboseli National Park

• Dream views of snow-capped Kilimanjaro, the highest mountain in Africa.
• One of the best places to see large herds of elephants up close.
• Amboseli ist Heimat der “Big Five”.
• The swamp Enkong'u Narok in the center of the park attracts 1000s of birds and other animals. Especially in the dry season there are best opportunities for wildlife watching.
• "Observation Hill" with information boards and wide view over Enkong'u Narok swamp.
• Wildlife is easy to find as much of the park is open savannah landscape.
• With over 600 species of birds, Amboseli is also an El Dorado for amateur ornithologists.
• Safaris in the golden morning and evening light are particularly rewarding.

What are the "Big Five"? The so-called "Big Five" are the large African animal species that are known to be dangerous and even deadly. They include lions, leopards, rhinos, elephants and buffalo. The term "Big Five" was introduced by big game hunters for the most difficult animals to hunt.

Profile Amboseli National Park

Location: On the border with Tanzania, 213 kilometers south of Nairobi.

Size: With 392 square kilometers one of the smallest national parks in Kenya.

Elevation: From 1,700 meters above sea level to the 2,760 meters high Ol Doinyo Orok

Name: Der Name Amboseli kommt von dem Maasai-Wort “Empusel”, was soviel wie salzig, Staub bedeutet.

Animals: About 80 species of mammals, including the "Big Five", wildebeests, giraffes, cheetahs, servals, baboons, monkeys, zebras, wild dogs, hyenas, dikdiks and small kudus. Over 600 species of birds, for example flamingos, pelicans, ostriches, African fish eagles, secretary eagles, South African crowned cranes and various species of kingfishers.

Entrance fee: Adults in high season $75; low season $60.

Tip: The park and the swamp are especially beautiful in the morning and evening light. It is best to choose a lodge near the swamp, for example Amboseli Serena Safari Lodge.

Best Time for a Safari in Amboseli National Park

Amboseli is a good destination all year round. Temperatures vary between 20-30 degrees Celsius. There is a rainy season in March and April, and in November and December. During the dry season the air is usually hazy from dust. You will have the clearest view of Kilimanjaro during the rainy season.

You are still looking for a safari provider for Kenya? We were on the road for 17 days with Natural World Kenya Safaris and were more than happy.

Dream View of the highest Mountain in Africa

Surely you all know the photos of Kilimanjaro, where in the foreground an elephant walks through the picture. Sometimes it is a lion or a giraffe. These photos were taken right here in Amboseli National Park.

Early in the morning a safari in Amboseli Park is the most beautiful!

Kilimanjaro, at 5895 m above sea level, is the highest mountain massif in Africa. However, its snow-covered peak Kibo often hides behind clouds in the afternoon. But in the morning, the air is usually clear and the view of the mountain massif, which is only about 50 kilometers away, is the best. The perfect backdrop for great photos.

Sad facts: Kilimanjaro's ice cap has been severely affected by global warming. Compared to 1912, the ice cap has decreased by 85% by 2020. By 2030, the peak is expected to be free of ice.

Amboseli - the Home of the Elephants

In 1979, there were about 1.3 million elephants in Africa. In Kenya alone, the population declined from 130,000 in 1973 to less than 20,000 in 1989, a drop of 85%. The reason for this catastrophic loss was the ivory trade.Today, on the other hand, the growing population as well as the progressive loss of habitat pose a new threat to the elephants.

The elephants in Amboseli National Park have been largely spared from poaching. The reason for this was the constant presence of researchers and tourists in the park as well as the support of the Maasai. Therefore, the population shows a natural age structure: from young calves to 60 year old elephant cows. Amboseli is known for its large herds of elephants. With around 1500 free-ranging elephants, the park is also considered the best place to observe elephants.

The best conditions for researching population dynamics and social structures in elephant families. But the studies with the Amboseli elephants have provided even more insights. Elephants communicate at a very sophisticated level and are also able to reason and solve problems. They celebrate births, maintain lifelong friendships and mourn the death of family members.

You want to know more about the elephants in Amboseli National Park? Then have a look at Amboseli Trust for Elephants .

Photo tip: In the morning and in the evening the elephant herds move from the surrounding forest areas to the central swamp and back again. They follow well-trodden paths and cross the tracks. 

Lions in Amboseli Park

Lions spend 20 to 21 hours lounging. They hunt in the early morning, evening and night. On our second early morning safari in Amboseli, we were lucky enough to see two lions feeding after a successful night hunt. How did we find them? We followed the vultures as several flew in exactly the same direction. When we arrived, a group of vultures as well as several jackals and hyenas were already waiting for their opportunity to steal a bite from the killed wildebeest.

Kenya's lion population is estimated to have dropped by half since 2004, and the decline is feared to continue. Lions have been hunted in much of Africa for a variety of reasons, most notably conflict with humans.

Amboseli lions share a similar fate: the park is surrounded by ranches belonging to local Maasai communities. In the dry season, the Maasai are allowed to drive their cattle into the park to gain access to the water in the swamp area. As soon as a lion kills a cattle, the lions are chased.

The relationship between the pastoralists of Africa and the lion is complex. Lions are both a source of fear and a source of pride, as they represent strength and courage. Lion Guardians experts respond when lions attack livestock and tensions arise between animals and humans. In doing so, they help protect both the livelihoods of communities and the lives of lions.

Lions and other predators are critical to maintaining the balance in the Amboseli ecosystem. Without them, the population of herbivores would likely increase beyond the park's carrying capacity and destroy this fragile habitat.

The Swamp Enkong'u Narok - Bird Paradise and Bathtub

The landscape in Amboseli National Park is diverse and changes with the seasons. For example, Lake Amboseli can dry up completely during the dry season. The wetland, on the other hand, is fed by meltwater from the glacier on Kilimanjaro, which flows underground to here. This means that the animals always have fresh water to drink and take a cool bath, even in the dry season.

During the dry season, most of the animals and birds stay around the central swamp area Enkong'u Narok. Sometimes the animals seem stuck in the swamp, so deep do they dive into the cooling water. You can see how deep this is especially well with the elephants: their skin is light on top and dark underneath. The best view over the swamp you have from the "Observation Hill".

The species richness as well as the number of water birds is impressive. Most striking, however, are the countless flamingos, Egyptian geese and herons. The best observation possibilities are offered by the dam that leads through the swamp northwest of "Observation Hill". The king of the skies is the lesser spotted eagle. But the crown is worn by the beautiful South African Crowned Cranes, which you can recognize by the magnificent crown of yellow feathers on their heads.

Besides the lake and the swamp area, the park consists largely of dry savannah with short vegetation,making it easy to find and observe the animals.

Book recommendations for Kenya

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books* about Kenya.

You can order the books at Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product through one of these affiliate links, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you and you do me a huge favor.

Which park is your favorite for a safari in Kenya - also the Amboseli? Do you have any questions or suggestions about my article? If yes, please write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love wildlife encounters as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about The Reindeer of the Cairngorms in Scotland or about the Beluga Whales of the Solowezki Islands.

Der Beitrag Amboseli Nationalpark – Safari mit Elefantengarantie erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.