Eisberge, Gletscherfronten, Vogelklippen und zwei gelbe Kajaks: Sieben Tage lang paddeln mein Partner und ich 150 Kilometer von Narsaq bis zum Qaleraliq Gletscher, wo die endlose Weite von Grönlands Inlandeis beginnt. Unsere Kajaktour in den Eisfjorden im Südwesten von Grönland war schon vor dem Start ein Vollzeit-Job: Recherche, Planung, Vorbereitung und schließlich das Packen ließen die To-Do-Liste vor der Tour immer länger werden. Doch die Ruhe in den Fjorden, das leise Plätschern beim Eintauchen der Paddel, die Eisberge und deren Spiegelungen im Wasser ließen uns all die langen Abende vorm Computer und den Karten schnell vergessen.

You can find a similar version of the following article in Kajak-Magazin 01/2024..

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Greenland is cold, windy and a polar bear lurks behind every second iceberg. So it's no wonder that the centerpiece of our tour planning was a multi-page safety plan. The "What do we do if..." scenarios ranged from an encounter with a polar bear, capsizing, and various injuries to the loss of equipment or even a kayak. We were prepared for everything. That's what we thought.

What we hadn't expected was the glassy sea in the mornings and plenty of sunshine. We were sweating in our dry suits and preferred to put on a bit more sunscreen instead of a hat and gloves. Nor did we expect to be offered fresh seal liver by a seal catcher or to be woken up one morning by the roar of a helicopter.

Paddling Paradise between steep Cliffs, Icebergs and Glacier Fronts 

The starting point of our kayak tour is the town of Narsaq in the southwest of Greenland. With just under 1,400 inhabitants, Narsaq is the second-largest town in the municipality of Kujalleq. The fjords here are particularly beautiful for paddling, as there are more icebergs here than anywhere else. Most of the ice comes from the Eqaloruutsit glacier, around 60 kilometers away, and drifts west towards the open sea. The branching fjords, steep banks, and many islands make this a beautiful and relatively sheltered paddling area for experienced paddlers and outdoor enthusiasts.

All Beginnings are difficult... and so was Day One of our Kayak Tour in Greenland

We hired the kayaks, life jackets, dry suits, distress signals, and the satphone from Blue Ice Explorer in Narsarsuaq . We continue by water cab to Narsaq, about 50 kilometers away. But as the saying goes? All beginnings are hard... In our case, it is deep: from the landing platform, we lower the fully loaded kayaks about one meter into the water. Then we climb in after them. There is no beach or shallow jetty within easy reach.

Only in the second bay after that is a small beach, a sports boat jetty, and a supermarket where we buy the rest of our provisions. After what feels like an eternity, all our luggage is finally stowed in the kayaks. Before we set off, we take a break and treat ourselves to a coffee and one of those delicious pastries in the supermarket. Then we finally set off. At that moment, we wouldn't have believed that we'd be back here in the supermarket the next day, drinking another coffee and eating another Danish pastry.

What happened? 

Spaghetti or Spirelli...or not...

In the evening at camp, I'm faced with the difficult choice of spaghetti with pesto or spirelli with tomato sauce for dinner. I opt for spaghetti and look forward to the hot meal. I quickly unpack the cooking utensils and want to screw the stove onto the gas cartridge. Irritated, I look at the cartridge and try again. But it doesn't help. The stove doesn't fit on the cartridge, and redundancy doesn't help if you have the same stove attachment and the same gas cartridge with you twice. Not all screw threads are the same. Even if the difference is only a fraction of a millimeter and invisible to the eye. The kitchen remains cold that evening. The next morning we paddle back to Narsaq and pray to all the old and new gods that we can get suitable gas cartridges from the supermarket. We are lucky. To be on the safe side this time, I try out both cartridges with both stoves. After all, it's not just our hot meals that depend on the stove working, but also our drinking water. We melt it from the glacier ice floating on the water. This is pure fresh water. It is so pure that we even add extra electrolyte powder.

Across the Bredefjord with new Gas Cartridges

The return to the supermarket extended our paddle tour by 18 kilometers. We have already used up our bad weather buffer day on the second day of our tour. I'm frustrated and fear that we won't reach our destination, the Qaleraliq glacier, at all. At the end of July, it is still light for a long time here in South Greenland. However, paddling times are often limited due to the tidal current and stronger winds in the afternoon.

But when we arrive back at our camp from the previous night in the afternoon, the paddling conditions are so good that we immediately attempt the four-kilometer crossing of the Bredefjord. The weather is also kind to us on the following days, so that we make much faster progress than expected.

Wind and Weather

We get the weather forecast from our GPS tracker. The weather is always better than forecast. However, due to the high mountains, the branching fjords, and the strong sunlight, the conditions in each fjord change over the course of the day. In the morning, the water is often as smooth as glass. The sun then causes local balancing winds to set in around midday, which become stronger and stronger during the afternoon and subside again in the evening.

I check the barometer three times a day and observe the clouds in the sky throughout the day. Every day, cirrus clouds form, which usually indicate a change in the weather within the next two days. But the air pressure remains constantly high. The weather only changes when we are back in Narsaq and in dry accommodation. What luck!

Qaleraliq Glacier - the Destination of our Greenland Kayak Tour

After four days of paddling, we finally reach our destination and turning point, the Qaleraliq Glacier. South-north expeditions to the Greenlandic ice sheet used to start from here. Today, Qaleraliq Camp offers Arctic comfort with a view of the remains of the glacier front. Due to global warming, the glacier has retreated considerably, splitting into three smaller glacier tongues. Only two of them still calve icebergs into the water. Due to the coronavirus pandemic, the camp is closed in the summer of 2022 and we pitch our tent on a neighboring hill.

The next morning, I listen contentedly to the calls of the seabirds. But suddenly a loud engine roars in my ears. A cruise ship has anchored in front of our camp and started flying its guests over the Qaleraliq Glacier by helicopter. It's time to get up. I'm amazed at how quickly we break camp this time and load our kayaks.

Tip: Little treasures* that make paddler's life easier:Tip: Small treasures* that make life easier for paddlers:

Keep your Distance - Icebergs break, roll or collapse in on themselves

We keep our distance from the glacier with our kayaks. We also prefer not to get too close to the large, towering, or otherwise unstable-looking icebergs. Especially in the afternoon, after the sun has warmed the ice, we hear pieces of ice breaking off again and again and see icebergs rolling and sometimes making considerable waves. Even on land, you have to expect waves from out of the blue at any time. That's why we never let the boats out of our sight during breaks and prefer to tie them up once more than once too little.

Route Planning with Satellite Images

The banks of the fjords are wild, usually steep and often unsuitable for landing with a kayak. In addition to the risk of getting our feet wet from icebergs tipping over in the tent, we also have to take into account a tidal range of around three meters. Although there is a rough map of the area, the nature of the shoreline and its suitability for entry and exit are not recognizable. Instead, I analyzed satellite images to plan my route and used Google Earth to create my own map for our kayak tour in Greenland. I marked possible places to land or camp in color. I planned our daily sections with lengths of 20 to 25 kilometers, knowing full well that the weather could quickly throw a spanner in the works. The only thing we couldn't use was a planned camp at the foot of a mountain, as the risk of falling rocks was too high. It was going to be a long day of paddling. We had to paddle several kilometers to the next suitable spot. What's more, we had previously taken too long a break and now had to paddle against the tidal current in choppy water. We were cursing!

A nocturnal Visitor to say Goodbye

We spent our last night at the same spot where we set up camp for the first time.

I sit outside for a long time, not wanting the day to end. Something dark flits across the stones next to me. At first, I thought it was one of the many ravens, but it doesn't fly away. The animal remains like a mere shadow in the not-quite-dark night. Slowly, I recognize a small head watching me. Then I see the elongated body and the bushy tail. I carefully turn around to get a better look at the little Arctic fox. We look at each other for a moment, then he runs off.

I wait a moment to see if the little fox might appear again. Meanwhile, my gaze wanders over the Bredefjord. The icebergs are at their largest directly in front of our camp. In my mind, I can see two yellow kayaks gliding between the countless icebergs. I walk back to the tent with a smile on my face.

Book Recommendations for Greenland

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Have you ever been to Greenland yourself, maybe even for a kayak tour? How did you like it? Do you have any questions about my article? If so, please write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

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Recommendations for further Reading

Want to know more about travelling in Greenland? Then click here for my article about my Hike at Tasermiut Fjord or about my Winter Trip to East Greenland.

Der Beitrag Grönland Kajaktour – Paddeln in einem Meer aus Eisbergen erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Greenland. One of my feet stuck between two roots, branches tugged at my 26 kilo backpack and small thin twigs tore at my hair. There was no back and forth, no left or right. I took a breath and tried again. How far this strech of birch thicket reached, I could not see. The birches were taller than I was. Dwarf birches they should be. Then finally a free area, swamp, a brook and a few stones. Behind it the next birch thicket was waiting for us. For hiking at Tasermiut Fjord one needs patience and good nerves. You want more? Then read on and see what made hiking here so uniquely beautiful and rewarding.

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4 kilometers in 10 hours - Welcome to Tasermiut Fjord!

Our most important companions during our hiking tour at Tasermiut Fjord: sunglasses to protect our eyes from branches, trekking poles, my drone to scout the next trail section, chocolate and patience. Each step wanted to be carefully placed. Here, at Tasermiut Fjord, the rules of nature applied. What ideas we had about our trekking tour didn't matter in the wild. Soon we dropped our expectations, adapted and suddenly paid attention to things for which we had no eyes before. After six days on the Tasermiut Fjord, we arrived in Klosterdalen safe and sound, except for a few bruises, and just in time for sunset. The mountains in front of us shone in orange light and clouds played around the rugged peaks of Ketil and other, nameless peaks. Nothing beats a moment like this.

Tip: You prefer paddling to hiking? You can organize kayaks at the Tourist Information or at the Blue Ice Cafe in Narsarssuaq.

In the Patagonia of Greenland

Some call the Tasermiut Fjord the "Patagonia of Greenland". Others call the area the "Yosemite of the Arctic." But no matter how one names the place, everyone agrees: these are the most beautiful mountains in all of Greenland.

The Tasermiut Fjord in South Greenland is famous for its rugged mountains and is popular with mountaineers, hikers and kayakers alike. Besides the mountains, snowfields on the mountain flanks, glaciers, wild rivers and low-hanging clouds characterize the image of the fjord. If you go hiking here, you will experience firsthand how green Greenland is.

The " Big Walls" on the Tasermiut Fjord include Ulamertorsuaq (1,858 meters, the Arctic version of El Capitan in Yosemite), Nalumasortoq (2,054 meters, shaped like an open book) and finally the huge granite pyramid of Ketil (2,010 meters). At the end of the fjord rises another great wall: the Tasermiut glacier, 1,400 meters high and three kilometers wide.

Hiking routes at the Tasermiut Fjord

There are several "recommended routes" from Tasiusaq to Klosterdalen, which are listed in the hiking map South Greenland Tasermiut fjorden - Nanortalik 1:100.000 . The routes run along the fjord shore or through the river valleys Qinnguadalen, Tupaassat and Klosterdalen. These are not hiking trails or paths. And honestly, at least on the fjord shore, the recommendation of the map is completely useless. You have to find your own way there. Maybe it is different in the river valleys. Only at the very beginning, near Tasermiut, there is a gravel road and paths or sheep trails. Otherwise it is pathless terrain: Meadows, blueberry scrub, marsh, willow bushes and dwarf birch trees. Sections lead along the shore, which is sometimes littered with larger rocks. Climbing is the order of the day. It becomes easier at low tide (tide table Nanortalik). However, in addition to the recommended routes, the hiking map gives other helpful information on its reverse side about hiking, kayaking, climbing, fishing as well as about nature and behavior in nature at Tasermiut Fjord. Worth reading and important to know!

What is missing in the map: the bridges over two glacial rivers are not shown. One is over the Kuussuaq river and the other is over the river between Ulamertorsuaq and Ketil mountains.

Hiking at Tasermiut Fjord and Klosterdalen in South Greenland

Day 1: Boat transfer and hike from Saputit to the Kuussuaq River.

Shortly after departure of our boat to Saputit we threw our plan A overboard and decided instead for the shorter hiking route along the eastern shore of Tasermiut Fjord: only about 32 kilometers instead of the big loop through the river valleys Qinnguadalen, Tupaassat and Klosterdalen with about 65 kilometers. With a shorter route we would be more flexible to the rain announced for the whole coming week and could simply wait in the tent for better weather. 

For the boat transfer to the start of the Hiking Tour at the Tasermiut Fjord , it is best to contact Serano Boat Tours via Facebook Messenger. We got a transfer for the next day.

Rain, rain, rain, rain, rain, rain....

We waited for the rain in the tent sooner than we would have liked. We barely set up our tent after our first 7.5 kilometers when it started to rain. Eleven hours of heavy rain, wind and even a small thunderstorm banished us to the tent until noon the following day. The meadow was soon flooded and the raindrops pressed through both tent walls. The water also penetrated the tent floor in some places. But there's always something positive: The cooking pot that I had left in my vestibule overnight was filled to the brim with rainwater for the breakfast coffee in the morning. Fortunately, I had covered my backpack after the first shower in the vestibule to protect it from the rain. However, my boots got a little soaked at the beginning.

Thunderstorms are extremely rare in Greenland. Luckily it stayed far away, otherwise we would have had to come up with something. One is not safe in a tent during thunderstorms. More about safety when camping during thunderstorms can be found here.

Info about the Route

Length: By boat: about 32 kilometers (about 45 min); on land: about 7.5 kilometers. Alternatively, you can be dropped off in Tasiusaq. The pretty village of 25 inhabitants has a small supermarket and you can rent the cottage from Serano. Your hiking distance will be about 5 kilometers longer.

Camp 1: On the northern bank of the Kuussuaq River is a large open meadow for camping. The meadow is marked as a suitable camp in the hiking map. However, sheep have also taken a liking to the meadow, which is why it is littered with droppings. There is a garbage can and a fireplace.

Trail: Initially gravel trail, passing two sheep farms; later trail (sheep trails); several fences have to be crossed either at the right place to open or at the designated overclimbing points; a bridge leads over the Kuussuaq River, fording is not necessary (would not have been possible with the water level we found)!

Drinking water: From the river Kuussuaq next to the camp. Because of the omnipresent sheep droppings, disinfect the water if necessary, e.g. with Mikropur Forte tablets*. For us it worked without.

Day 2: Boat transfer and setup at Camp 2

When we dared to leave the tent the following day around noon, Christian was standing in front of us. He had come with two Norwegian guests for fishing. After a short chat he offered us a boat ride to the next camp. At first I said no, after all we had come here for hiking. It should still be about 15 kilometers that day. But in the end my inner pig and my wet trekking boots won out. We quickly packed up, climbed into the boat and were at the camp after a bumpy twenty minutes. During the trip, even the weather cleared up a bit. As we approached the camp, we couldn't believe our eyes: two paragliders flew down one of the mountains with their colorful parachutes.

Actually, we thought we wouldn't meet anyone during our hike. But as soon as we arrived, Luc showed up. "Do you like to join us and have a cup of tea with me and my friends? " - Sure! His friends were climbers from France and Belgium. They had been here in camp for three weeks, climbing new routes. Under their tarp next to a big rock it looked really cozy: A table, benches made of stones, a big cooking pot and lots of other useful stuff. In the corner even hung a net with collected Lapland tea to dry. In front of the camp Emma held the position, a stone woman with hair made of seaweed.

In the evening, the cloud cover broke even further and revealed the view of the mountains. The panorama was indescribably beautiful. We stood there in awe until the clouds took over the mountains again.

Info about the Route

Length: in the boat: about 17 kilometers (about 20 min)

Camp 2: On both banks of the river between the mountains Ketil and Ulamertorsuaq are open meadows for camping. These are not marked on the trail map.

Specifics: A suspension bridge spans the river. Note: In September 2025, I learned that the bridge had been destroyed.

Drinking water: from the big river next to the camp

Days 3 and 4: Short hikes from Camp 2.

We stayed at the camp for three nights. The weather did not encourage further walking and my ankle was painfully swollen in the evening. It must have happened during the bumpy boat ride. I didn't twist my ankle and an overload from sitting in the tent and expecting the rain stopping was also unlikely... Instead of hiking further towards Klosterdalen, we did two shorter hikes in the area with light packs.

The first hike took us at first over the suspension bridge and then parallel to the shore towards the south. There was a trail that was easy to walk. We followed this to the next glacial river and then a bit inland on sheep trails.

On the way we kept looking for musk oxen. But as we learned afterwards, they should only be found on the western shore of the Tasermiut Fjord. Instead we enjoyed smaller companions: curious birds that came closer and often accompanied us for a while. As soon as we sat down and took a break they squatted on the neighboring rocks and didn't seem to be shy of us at all.

The next day we followed the path upstream from our camp until it got lost in the dense brush. Since the brush was still wet from the rain, my boots quickly got wet again. While walking through, I scraped the water from the plant parts, which then ran down my legs to my shoes.

Day 5: Here we go: departure towards Klosterdalen

We planned our departure for the following day, according to the weather forecast of our Garmin inReach Mini 2*the sun should shine. Then we would still have two and a half days time, until Serano picks us up with the boat in Klosterdalen. The eight-kilometer distance we should easily manage. And when we are in Klosterdalen, we could do some small explorations there. At least that's what we thought... it turned out differently.

We were quickly proven wrong: For the 8 kilometers we needed no less than two days with one seven and one 10 hours of hiking (including breaks). Swamps, shrubs, willow bushes and huge dwarf birches made every meter a small fight. But everything started quite relaxed. In sunshine and a light breeze, the first few hundred meters were along a path and then along the shore. Then the rocks got bigger and the shore steeper, so we had to swerve uphill. At first we thought the dense bushes were only there in some patches and could be easily bypassed. But eventually it became more and more dense and there was no other option but to go across. Around four o'clock in the afternoon we had enough. Next to a small stream we set up camp and unpacked the whiskey bottle as a reward.

A few words about safety: be aware that you can break your ankle at any moment while hiking through the birch thicket. Tightly laced trekking boots category BC are indispensable. Train your balance with a heavy backpack on your back: squats on one leg, lunges, etc. Have your first aid kit handy so that you can quickly apply a (pressure) bandage if necessary. Practice this beforehand! Allow enough time to sit out any rain in the tent and not have to rush in the difficult terrain. It is not a good idea to run under time pressure. And so that you can still enjoy the great scenery in Klosterdalen at the end: wear sunglasses and protect your eyes from stinging branches. Und damit ihr am Ende noch was von der tollen Landschaft in Klosterdalen habt: tragt eine Sonnenbrille und schützt eure Augen vor stechenden Zweigen.

Info about the Route

Length: approx. 7 kilometers

Walking time incl. breaks: approx. 7 hours

Camp 3: on the way, next to a small stream

Trail: pathless terrain: initially banks, then marsh, shrubs, willow bushes and dwarf birch trees

Specifics: There are smaller mountain streams to cross, which is mostly possible with stepping stones, a jump or just walking through. Only one stream we had to ford, but this was very easy.

Drinking water: on the way from numerous mountain streams

Day 6: Through the wilderness to Klosterdalen

The further we got towards Klosterdalen, the denser the wilderness became. I had read in blog articles about Klosterdalen that it goes in places only with 1 km/h. But that it will be here on the fjord shore a good 70% of the way so, I had not thought. (In retrospect, however, it is clear that it will be so, because after all you stay on the coast at the same altitude with similar conditions). The "recommended route" marked on the trail map was not apparent. Worried about missing a trail or open terrain, I sent my drone into the air. We then used the photos to pick the best route. Mostly it was from rock to rock, because there the vegetation was not quite so dense. From time to time we could walk on the shore, or climb over rocks. Only the last kilometer along the shore let us relax a bit.

At sunset we were standing at the camp in Klosterdalen. The last rays of the sun colored Ketil and Co. in warm orange. What a great reward for what was probably the most difficult hike I've done so far.

In the afternoon the wind increased more and more. In the evening it was so stormy at our camp that I took extra care to peg down our tent. But even with wind, the view of the mountains was simply fantastic. We put on another layer of clothing and enjoyed the view. Shortly after the sun disappeared behind the mountains, the wind also died down. But with the calm came the mosquitoes.

The mosquitoes of Klosterdalen

Some of the midges became part of our dinner: mashed potatoes with soaked dried vegetables. There were the small mosquitoes, similar to midges in Scotland, and also larger mosquitoes. Klosterdalen had significantly more than the other camps. But for me it was still ok without a mosquito net over my head. Most mosquitoes hung around my partner, who then also pulled a net over his head. From the mosquito spray Deet, which we used, the mosquitoes were rather unimpressed. It is best to check in Nanortalik, that you get a regional mosquito spray, which is adapted to the mosquitoes here.

Info about the Route

Length: 4 kilometers

Walking time incl. breaks: 10 hours

Camp 4: Klosterdalen, south of the river. The camp is marked on the trail map.

Trail: Pathless terrain: swamp, shrubs, willow bushes and dwarf birch trees. At the end shore with rocks.

Specifics: The further you hike into the fjord, the denser the vegetation becomes. No significant stream crossings.

Drinking water: on the way from numerous mountain streams; from the river Uiluii Kuua next to the camp.

Day 7: Boat transfer Klosterdalen - Tasiusaq - Nanortalik

The next day our boat came two hours earlier than planned - "We expect strong wind in the afternoon and we could not sail then - so we came earlier" said the captain. Thirty minutes later we were in the boat, the water was smooth as glass and the monastery ruins of Klosterdalen we will probably see another time.

How did Serano know we were already at the meeting place? I had given him the Internet address of my Garmin inReach. The tracking function recorded our location every half hour so he could trace our route on the map.

By the way, here, in the remote valley, there was an Augustinian monastery in the 10th century - hence the name Klosterdalen. Today there are only a few ruins left, but they are said to be barely recognizable. Unfortunately, we were not able to look for them due to time constraints.

Stopover in Tasiusaq

To Nanortalik it is about 70 kilometers by boat, about 1.5 hours drive. The closer we came to the mouth of the fjord, the higher the waves and the stronger the wind. White foam crowns stretched over the breaking waves and water splashed into our little nutshell. Greenland showed us again with ease how small and vulnerable we are. How easily one of the bigger waves combined with a gust of wind could have knocked over our little boat. We turned away and let ourselves drift with the wind back to the small town of Tasiusaq.

Later in the afternoon, the wind was supposed to weaken again. One just had to wait a bit. The blue wooden house of Serano invited us to stay with a warm stove and coffee (you can also rent the house). In the small supermarket of the village of 25 inhabitants we also get everything for a delicious lunch (card payment possible).

Around five o'clock in the afternoon we finally set off and were soon back in Nanortalik. After our hiking tour at the Tasermiut Fjord we were looking forward to a warm shower. On the way to the hotel we stopped briefly at the supermarket and bought a few treats for the evening.

Sad story: All inhabitants of the village Tasiusaq starved to death about 140 years ago. Only in the 1930s the village was repopulated by descendants and family members of the original inhabitants.

Some additional info at the end

• Buy the hiking map South Greenland Tasermiut fjorden - Nanortalik 1:100.000 and read the information on the back.
• A lot more information can be found in "The Ultimate Greenland Hiking Guide" from visitgreenland.gl
• Plan one or two buffer days for your hike and take extra food with you. The boat cannot come to pick you up in all weather conditions.
• There is no cell phone reception. Take either a satellite phone or, for example, a Garmin inReach and familiarize yourself with its operation beforehand.
• You are in polar bear country. Check with the tourist information office and your boat guide for any sightings and reschedule if necessary. More info on what to do during polar bear encounters.
• “Leave no Trace!” - better read again...

How to get to Tasermiut Fjord?

Tasermiut Fjort in South Greenland is relatively easy to reach, at least for Greenlandic conditions. You can fly from Reykjavik to Narsarsuaq. From there you have the choice: either in the expensive helicopter of Air Greenland to Nanortalik or by boat. Since we were already halfway there (Narsaq), we continued our journey by boat.

You can book the boat trip at Discoline . The trip is often done with the boats from the Blue Ice Cafe. Blue Ice Cafe.

From Nanortalik you need a charter boat that takes you to Tasermiut Fjord. We asked for help at the tourist information office. There we got the contact to Serano Boat Tours and could arrange a transfer for the next day. The cost of the transfer there and back was 700 euros (as of 2022).

Book Recommendations for Greenland

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Equipment

Below you can see the equipment we took with us to our hiking tour at Tasermiut Fjord. Most of it worked well. Only my Goretex boots were no longer waterproof after four years of frequent use (for whatever reason). I also wished our tent would have let less rain through. 1500 mm water column for the outer tent and 1800 mm for the floor were a bit low. But in return the tent was light and stood reliably even in strong winds.

Have you ever been to Greenland? Maybe even for a hiking tour at the Tasermiut Fjord? How did you like it? Do you have any questions about my article? If yes, please write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Want to know more about travelling in Greenland? Then click here for my article about my Hike to the Ice Cap at Eqi Glacier or about my Winter Trip to East Greenland.

Der Beitrag Die Entdeckung der Langsamkeit – Hiking am Tasermiut Fjord erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Non-solicited, unpaid advertising. This article contains affiliate links*, marked with an asterisk.

Note: The films are available in German and English. However, I have only linked to the English-language trailer on YouTube in each case. I watched the movies either on YouTube, Amazon Prime or Netflix. Please check the channel of your choice for availability.

#1 Big Miracle – USA, 2012

Rescue of whales trapped in the ice.

In 1988, the small village of Point Barrow is all over the news. That's because a family of California gray whales is trapped in the ice, their access to the open sea cut off. The three animals survive only as long as the only remaining breathing hole does not freeze over. Animal rights activists, whalers, the National Guard, politicians, the U.S. President, onlookers and oil industry representatives end up working together to try to save the whales. Who will make it in the end? The Russians with their gigantic icebreaker and a captain who will stop at nothing.

Click here for the movie trailer on YouTube.

Conclusion: A really beautiful and touching polar film to cheer along.

By the way, the film is based on a true story, which is described in the book Freeing the Whales* as Operation Breakthrough.

#2 Arctic – Iceland, 2018

Survival thriller following a plane crash in the Arctic.

Arctic is a 2018 Icelandic survival thriller from director Joe Penna. Set in a remote, Arctic area, it is about pilot Overgård who is the only survivor of a plane crash. Day after day, he tries to summon rescue by radio signal. The wreckage of the plane provides him with shelter and he feeds on raw fish, which he catches in a nearby lake. When the rescue helicopter finally arrives, everything gets worse and a fight for survival begins. Not only for his own survival, but also for that of the co-pilot, who is the only one to survive the helicopter crash in the storm. On a sled, Overgård pulls the badly injured woman through a hostile landscape of polar bears, storms, frostbite and crashes. Do they make it? I won't tell you here - watch it!

Click here for the movie trailer on YouTube.

Conclusion: Pure goosebumps!

#3 Orca the Killerwhale – USA, 1977

A bull orca whose pregnant mate has been murdered by whalers takes revenge.

Orca the Killer Whale is a US animal horror film with cult status. Canadian whaler Captain Nolan wants to catch an orca for an aquarium. But this goes wrong. He harpoons a pregnant female and pulls her aboard. While hanging upside down from the crane, she loses her calf. This all happens before the eyes of the orca bull. He memorizes the whalers' faces and a vendetta against the boat crew ensues. Captain Nolan is forced to take his boat out and face the battle with the whale. He is accompanied by, among others, the sympathetic whale researcher Rachel. They follow the whale up from Newfoundland to the pack ice, where the whale sinks the ship. The final battle between Nolan and the orca is fought out in the ice and water. Only Rachel survives and is rescued by a previously called helicopter.

Click here for the movie trailer on YouTube.

Conclusion: My absolute favorite polar movie. I don't know how many times I have watched it. Somehow this must have had a strong influence on me: the first car I bought was a green Series 2 Land Rover - exactly like the one the whale researcher drives in the movie.

#4 The red Tent – Soviet Union, Italy, 1969

Prominent adventure film with Sean Connery, Claudia Cardinale, Hardy Krüger and Peter Finch.

Italian Umberto Nobile sets out for the North Pole in the airship Italia in May 1928. Adverse weather conditions, however, make a landing at the North Pole impossible. On the return flight to Spitsbergen, the airship becomes increasingly difficult to steer due to increasing icing and finally crashes. The survivors find shelter in a tent, which they paint red. The subsequent rescue operation turns out to be difficult. Thus, the polar explorer Roald Amundsen has an accident himself during the search and the icebreaker sent by the Russians is stuck in the ice. When the pilot Lundborg finds the victims, he persuades the injured Nobile to be the first to be flown out. However, the rescue of the other team members is then delayed due to weather conditions. From then on, Nobile is plagued by a guilty conscience. Nightmares haunt him night after night in which he discusses the question of guilt with the other participants.

Conclusion: A thrilling adventure film based on real facts.

Click here for the movie trailer on YouTube.

Are you cold? Find warm fleece sweaters, down jackets and gloves at Bergzeit*.

#5 Eight Below – USA, 2006

Walt Disney film about the survival story of a group of sled dogs left behind in Antarctica.

The crew of the small US research station in Antarctica is already preparing to return home. It' s the end of the season. But one last mission remains to be accomplished: Jerry Shepard is to assist professor Dr. Davis McClaren in his search for a meteorite from Mercury. With the sled dog team the two set off to Mount Melbourne and find the meteorite. Then the weather changes and the professor collapses in the ice. With the help of the brave dogs and their super sense of direction they make it back to the station. Because of the rising storm front the crew is to be flown out immediately. But there is no more room for the dogs in the plane, they have to stay behind. Jerry tries to get his dogs back - unsuccessfully. Only several months later he makes it back to the station. What happened to the dogs? Just watch it!

Click here for the movie trailer on YouTube.

Conclusion: A really nice polar movie, which I have already watched several times. And again and again I have tears in my eyes at the end.

You also want to go dog sledding? Click here to read my article about a Dog Sledding in Greenland.

#6 Encounters at the End of the World – Canada, USA, Germany, 2007

Documentary by Werner Herzog about people and places in Antarctica.

Werner Herzog's films are always something special. So is this one. Herzog and the Austrian cameraman Zeitlinger travel to Antarctica. There, at the end of the world, they meet people and tell their stories. What connects them to this place and how did they get here? The journey begins at the American McMurdo Station and continues via Ernest Shackleton's station to the South Pole and Mount Erebus. What drove Werner Herzog here himself? The underwater footage of divers: ice from below and life under the ice. Have you ever heard seals under water? In the film you have the opportunity – it sounds like an encounter on another planet.

Click here for the movie trailer on YouTube.

Conclusion: A very personal and endearing documentary about the people of Antarctica. At the end you ask yourself why you don't work there yourself.

You want more Antarctica? Then have a look at my Antarctica Articles.

#7 Nanook of the North – USA, 1922

Documentary from the silent film era.

The film follows the Inuit Nanuk and his family over several weeks. Nanuk lives with his family as a nomad in the Canadian Arctic. Together with his two wives Nyla and Cunayou, his son Allee, the baby Rainbow and the sled dogs he fights daily for survival. The daily life of the Inuit family is shown, including seal and walrus hunting, fishing, igloo building and fur trading. The care of the children and care of the sled dogs are also vividly documented. In addition to the beauty of nature, the harshness of Arctic life is also shown as the family's lives are put in danger during a sudden snowstorm.

Conclusion: For all who want to know how the daily life of the Inuit was in the twenties.

Click here for the whole movie on YouTube.

#8 Never Cry Wolf – USA, 1983

Nature film by Walt Disney, based on the autobiographical novel "Never Cry Wolf" (1963) by Canadian biologist and writer Farley Mowat.

After the plane takes off again, young biologist Tyler finds himself alone on an icy lake. Poorly equipped and inexperienced, surrounded by the white expanse of the Arctic tundra. On behalf of the government, he is to investigate the decline of the caribou population. The suspects are wolves, about which many horror stories are circulating.

After a while and with the help of an old Inuit, Tyler slowly finds his way around. Only he doesn't find any caribou. Instead, he explores a wolf pack and builds a respectful bond with the alpha pair. When the caribou herd finally arrives, he watches as the wolves chase the caribou and snatch an animal. After the fact, Tyler realizes that it was a sick animal. Might it be the hunting tourists who are behind the caribou kill after all? After this realization, and after an Inuit hunter kills "his" pair of wolves and three cubs are orphaned, Tyler's world collapses.

Click here for the movie trailer on YouTube.

Summary: The film shows the nature of the arctic tundra in wonderful pictures. A lot of wildlife, Inuit culture and a young man who turns from a fearful scientist into a nature lad and wolf lover.

#9 The Thing 2 – USA, Canada, 2011

Horror and science fiction film with woman power and shape shifter.

Norwegian scientists find a crashed spaceship and a creature trapped in the ice in Antarctica. Both are estimated to be 100,000 years old. They bring the block of ice containing the creature to their station and flown-in paleontologist Kate begins to study it. Elated by their spectacular find, the team celebrates the evening exuberantly. But they are abruptly interrupted. Because the extraterrestrial being is still alive. It frees itself from the ice block and kills the scientists. One after the other. To do this, the being transforms into the shape of the scientists as soon as it touches them. No one can distinguish anymore who is human or monster. Only inorganic material cannot transform the creature - a small detail that saves Kate's life in the end. She is the only one to survive the monster's attacks, but now finds herself alone in an icy desert.

The film tells the prequel to John Carpenter's The Thing from 1982, which was itself a remake of Christian Nyby's 1951 classic.

Click here for the movie trailer on YouTube.

Conclusion: A bit too much horror and a very unattractive creature. But great that in the film a woman is the smartest of them all.

#10 The Thing – USA, 1982

Horror and science fiction film for the hard-bitten.

It picks up where the 2011 film ends: a man tries to shoot a fleeing dog from a flying helicopter. When they reach an American research station, everything goes haywire: the helicopter explodes, the crazed shooting Norwegian is shot by the Americans themselves, and the dog is put in the kennel with the other dogs. There he then shows his true colors and kills the other dogs. Using a flamethrower, the Americans kill the creature - or so they think.

To understand the events, two of them fly to the Norwegian station. They find it almost completely destroyed. With the help of the Norwegians' records, the Americans find out what they are dealing with. The alien being is a shape-shifter that was trapped in the ice after its spaceship crashed about 100,000 years ago. After physical contact, the being can take on the form of the person in question. No one can distinguish who is human or monster anymore, they all distrust each other. There is only one thing they agree on: they must prevent the alien being from leaving the station and threatening all of humanity at all costs.

Click here for the movie trailer on YouTube.

Conclusion: You have to like horror movies...

#11 Smilla’s Sense of Snow – Denmark, Germany, Sweden, 1997

A meteorite crashed in Greenland and a suspected accident involving an Inuit boy awaken the detective in a reclusive scientist.

Smilla Jaspersen liked her neighbor, the little Greenlandic boy Isaiah. She didn't think he fell off the roof while playing. Because his footprints in the snow, in her eyes, rather indicate an escape. The scientist investigates. Her search leads her to the Greenland Mining company and finally to a research ship and Greenland. In the meantime, she experiences many dicey situations and only narrowly escapes a bomb attack. In the end she finds out the truth in Greenland and realizes the connection between the meteorite that crashed in 1859 and the death of the boy.

Click here for the movie trailer on YouTube.

Conclusion: An exciting thriller that takes us from Copenhagen to Kiruna and Greenland.

#12 Antarctica: Ice and Sky – Germany, 2015

Portrait of glaciologist Claude Lorius and plea for climate protection.

In this documentary by Luc Jacquet, we accompany French explorer Claude Lorius into the endless snow and ice landscapes of Antarctica. Lorius sets out in 1957 to study the ice masses of Antarctica.

He discovered that the air bubbles trapped in the ice provided information about the climate of past times. His work made it possible for the first time to trace climate history back 800,000 years. The insights gained into climate change are groundbreaking and proof of man-made global warming, the consequences of which Lorius warns of as early as 1965.

Click here for the movie trailer on YouTube.

Conclusion: A documentary worth seeing, which shows not only the beauty of Antarctica, but also its fragility.

#13 Glory & Honor – USA, 1998

The biographical feature film tells the story of the expeditions of Robert Edwin Peary and Matthew Henson.

At the end of the nineteenth century, the American Robert Edwin Peary set himself the goal of planting America's flag in the North Pole.

During his first exploratory voyage to Greenland in 1891, Peary is accompanied by his assistant Matthew Henson, among others. The Inuit recognize the black Henson as a kidnapped cousin. They outfit him with polar clothing and teach him their language and how to use dog sleds. This gives him a clear advantage during the rest of the expedition.

On the second expedition, Matthew Henson has risen to full expedition member and is an important link between the explorers and the Inuit. But both advances to the Pole fail and Peary loses eight of his toes to frostbite.

The Third Expedition in 1908-1909 is better equipped: with Inuit fur clothing, dog sleds and igloos, the advance to the Pole is finally to succeed. (Note: It is still disputed whether Peary actually reached the North Pole).

Click here for the whole film on YouTube.

Conclusion: For everyone who is interested in the early polar expeditions and the relationship between the explorers and the Inuit, this is a great polar film.

Are your eyes now square from watching so many movies? Then how about a book? In my article Polar Literature - Book Tips on the Arctic and Antarctic you will surely find what you are looking for. Have a look right now!

Here are a few books* as a foretaste:

There are many more great polar movies, especially documentaries. A second article with more great Arctic and Antarctic films will follow. What is your favorite film? I would love to add it to my list. Which is your favorite movie? Ich würde ihn gerne in meiner Liste ergänzen.

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Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love the polar regions as much as I do? Then check out my articles about Antarctica and a Winter Tour in Greenland .

Der Beitrag Filmtipps! Die 13 besten Polarfilme erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

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Buchtipps zur Arktis

Meine Buchempfehlungen zur Arktis umfassen die Länder Grönland, Spitzbergen, Russland, Kanada, Alaska, Island sowie die Arktis allgemein. Es sind die Abenteuer und Expeditionen der früheren Polarforscher und Jäger, Berichte heutiger Abenteuer, Reisen mit Hundeschlitten oder Duchquerungen der Nord-West-Passage mit dem Segelboot oder russischen Eisbrecher. Am Ende des Kapitels habe ich auch außerdem eine Auswahl von Reiseführern zusammengestellt.

Die Beschreibungen habe ich mitunter von den Buchrücken übernommen.

A Woman in the Polar Night by Christiane Ritter

SPITZBERGEN. “Die Arktis ist die Zone der Welt, wo der Himmel die Erde berührt. Nicht jeder erträgt das große Licht, nicht jeder die Finsternis, nicht jeder die große Einsamkeit. Ich hatte die große Gnade, gleich am Anfang meines Abenteuers, und dies alleine, mitten hineingeschleudert zu werden in die Unerbittlichkeit der wilden Natur und erhielt meine Feuertaufe.”

Im eisigen Spitzbergen, viele hundert Kilometer von der nächsten Siedlung entfernt und ohne technische Hilfsmittel moderner Arktisexpeditionen, haben sich Christiane Ritter und ihr Mann einen Traum erfüllt. Sie lebten 1934 ein Jahr lang zusammen mit einem Pelzjäger in einer primitiven Hütte. Christiane Ritters Erlebnisbericht vermittelt eine Ahnung von der Faszination der Arktis. Mein absolutes Lieblingsbuch und Top Buchtipp über Spitzbergen!

Kälte, Wind und Freiheit: Wie die Inuit mich den Sinn des Lebens lehrten von Robert Peroni

GRÖNLAND. Eine Grönland-Durchquerung in den Achtzigerjahren wird zum Wendepunkt im Leben von Robert Peroni. Tief beeindruckt von der Schönheit der Natur und der Freundlichkeit der Inuit, beschließt der Abenteurer und Profibergsteiger, in einem 2000-Seelen-Dorf an der wilden Südostküste Grönlands zu bleiben. Er dringt ein in die ursprüngliche und geheimnisvolle Welt des Robbenjägervolks und erfährt, wonach er trotz aller Erfolge und Rekorde bislang vergeblich gesucht hatte: Glück und Zufriedenheit. Liebevoll und fesselnd erzählt Robert Peroni vom Alltag der Inuit und ruft uns eindrücklich in Erinnerung, wie bedroht ihr traditionelles Leben zunehmend ist.

Ich habe alle Bücher von Robert Peroni gelesen. Dieses hier ist sein aktuellstes und es liest sich wie eine Liebeserklärung an Grönland. Im Februar/März 2015 habe ich drei Wochen in Roberts Gasthaus “The Red House” in Tasiilaq verbracht. Es war noch vor Saisonbeginn, daher waren wir nur sechs Gäste. Während dieser Zeit habe ich immer wieder gespürt wieviel Liebe und Leidenschaft er für das Land in sich trägt. Kälte, Wind und Freiheit ist auf jeden Fall eine unverzichtbare Reiselektüre für alle, die nach Ostgrönland fahren wollen und eines meiner Lieblingsbücher zur Arktis.

Eisgesang: Meine Reise durch die Nordwestpassage von Kathleen Winter

KANADA / ALASKA. Dieses Buch ist eine Hommage an die Magie des ewigen Eises und die einzigartige Welt der Arktis.

»Ich hatte das Gefühl, an den Ort zu fahren, wo sich eine imaginäre Welt mit der wirklichen überschneidet: ein Ort, an dem die Zeit anders vergeht. Der Name ›Nordwestpassage‹ ist auf alten Weltkarten nicht verzeichnet: Es ist eher eine Vorstellung als ein Ort. Diese Vorstellung zog mich schon lange an, mit einer Macht, die ich nicht begreifen konnte.«

Auf der Fahrt an Bord eines russischen Eisbrechers durch die legendäre Nordwestpassage erlebt die kanadische Journalistin Kathleen Winter hautnah, wie fragil und gefährdet die Welt der Arktis ist. In wunderbaren Bildern schildert sie ihre Begegnungen mit dieser großartigen Landschaft und ihren Bewohnern. Winters eindringlicher Reisebericht ist zugleich die Geschichte ihrer persönlichen Lebensreise, eine Geschichte vom Verlieren und Finden, vom Suchen und vom bei sich selbst Ankommen. Es ist ein Buch, das man anfängt und nicht mehr weglegen möchte. Und schlimmer noch: es verstärkt den Wunsch, selber einmal im Leben, die Nordwestpassage durchqueren zu wollen.

Polar Wives: The Remarkable Women behind the World's Most Daring Explorers

ALLGEMEIN ARKTIS & ANTARKTIS. Shackleton, Franklin, Scott – jeder kennt die Namen der großen Polarforscher und deren Abenteuer. Doch wenig ist bekannt über die Frauen an ihrer Seite, denen die Polarhelden ihren Ruhm – und oft auch ihr Überleben – verdanken. Kari Herbert, die in Grönland aufgewachsene Tochter des britischen Polarforschers Sir Wally Herbert, hat jahrelang recherchiert und bisher ungesichtete Aufzeichnungen, Tagebücher und Briefe der Polarfrauen und ihrer Männer studiert. Mit ihren einfühlsam und fesselnd erzählten Lebensbildern von Jo Peary, Kathleen Scott, Emily Shackleton, Marie Herbert, Eleanor Anne und Jane Franklin rückt sie 200 Jahre Polargeschichte in ein neues Licht. Denn auch die Frauen der Polarhelden waren große Heldinnen, jede auf ihre eigene Art und Weise.

Der weiße Horizont. Drei Männer durchqueren Grönlands unerforschte Eiswüste von Robert Peroni

GRÖNLAND. Zu Fuß, ohne Schlittenhunde, technische Hilfsmittel und Versorgungsdepots durchqueren drei Südtiroler Bergsteiger 1400 Kilometer grönländische Eiswüste. Sie bewältigen dabei in knapp drei Monaten eine Strecke, für welche die legendäre Wegener / Koch Expedition mit Pferden volle zwei Jahre gebraucht hatte. Als die drei arktischen Wanderer dann nach 88 Tagen und schier unvorstellbaren Strapazen ihr Ziel erreichten, hatten sie neue Maßstäbe für die Grenzen menschlicher Leistungsfähigkeit gesetzt. Denn eine Leistung von mehr als 500 km unter diesen Bedingeungen galt bis dahin als unmöglich. Ein Abenteuer, das Grönlands Polizeiminister verboten hätte, wenn er rechtzeitig davon informiert gewesen wäre.

Übrigens: wenn ihr selber mal einen Fuß auf das Inlandeis von Grönland setzen wollt, dann schaut euch meinen Artikel über unsere Hiking Tour vom Eqi-Gletscher bis zum Inlandeis .

Spielplatz der Helden von Michael Köhlmeier

GRÖNLAND. Der Roman über ein spektakuläres Grönland Abenteuer. Drei Südtiroler durchquerten 1983 als erste Menschen Grönland ohne Schlittenhunde und externe Hilfsmittel. Die spektakuläre Durchquerung wird in Köhlmeiers Roman zu einem aberwitzigen Psychodrama, da vom ersten Tag an Streit zwischen den drei Bergsteigern herrscht. Obwohl so zerstritten, dass zwei von ihnen während der 88 Tage kein Wort miteinander wechseln, bewältigen sie die zuvor nicht für möglich gehaltene Route.

Michael Köhlmeier erzählt hier die Geschichte des Buches “Der weiße Horizont” von Robert Peroni aus drei verschiedenen Perspektiven. Grade wenn ihr beide Bücher lest, ist es sehr faszinierend zu erkennen, wie unterschiedlich die drei Männer die Expedition wahrgenommen haben.

Nordwestpassage für dreizehn Arglose und einen Joghurt von Tina Uebel

KANADA / ALASKA. Landschaften von grandioser Leere, sturmgefegte See, brachiales Eis – noch ist die Nordwestpassage ein Abenteuer, strapaziös und wundersam zugleich. Zumindest auf einem Segelboot. Im Sommer 2011 hat sich Kapitän Wolf Kloss mit seiner Santa Maria Australis dieser Herausforderung gestellt, und die Schriftstellerin Tina Uebel ist für drei Monate mitgesegelt. Wo endet die Welt, und wie weit kann man gehen, um an ihren Rändern zu kratzen, hat sie noch Ränder? Und was ist es, das einen dorthin treibt?

Tina Übel berichtet in einer sehr unterhaltsamen Art und Weise über eine der größten Reisen, die ich mir vorstellen kann. Grade für alle, die selber gerne Segeln ist das Buch einer meiner liebsten Buchtipps zur Arktis.

Die letzten Könige von Thule. Leben mit den Eskimos von Jean Malaurie

Malaurie teilte 14 Monate lang das Leben der 300 Polareskimos von Thule. Er ging dabei mit ihnen auf die Jagd und legte zusammen mit zwei Eskimos und deren Frauen mehr als 1500 Kilometer auf dem Polareis und den Gletschern Grönlands zurück. Sehr plastisch schildert er den Alltag seiner Gastgeber, ihre wirtschaftliche und gesellschaftliche Organisation, ihre Jagden auf Seehunde, Walrosse und Eisbären. Außerdem erläutert er ihre Familienstruktur und Sexualität, ihre Überlebenstechniken, ihre Träume und ihre Legenden, die sie sich während der Polarnacht erzählen. Das Buch ist ein absolutes Muss für jeden, der die grönländische Kultur etwas tiefergehens verstehen möchte.

Auf Schneeschuhen durch Grönland: 1888-1889 von Fridjof Nansen

GRÖNLAND. Was befindet sich im Inneren Grönlands? Gibt es dort wirklich ‘grünes Land’, oder ist sie von einer Wüste aus Eis, Schnee und Felsen bedeckt? Bis zum Jahr 1888 blieben diese Fragen unbeantwortet, die größte Insel der Erde war nur an der Küste besiedelt. Zwar hatte Adolf Erik Nordenskiöld und Robert Edwin Peary erste Vorstöße ins Innere unternommen. Doch die Durchquerung der Terra incognita blieb einem bis dahin gänzlich unbekannten Abenteurer vorbehalten: Fridtjof Nansen. Im Mai 1888 fuhren er und sein Gefährte Otto Sverdrup mit einem Robbenfänger von Island aus nach Norden. Vor der Ostküste Grönlands ließen sich die Männer auf einer Eisscholle absetzen – und schon drohte die Expedition zu scheitern, bevor sie richtig begonnen hatte. Denn die Abenteurer wurden fast fünfhundert Kilometer weit nach Süden abgetrieben, ehe es ihnen gelang, das Festland zu erreichen. Im August begann ihr Marsch ins Unbekannte, doch von ‘Grünland’ keine Spur.

Unter Jägern und Schamanen: Tagebuch der Thule-Fahrt. Reisebericht von Knut Rasmussen

GRÖNLAND. 1921: Knud Rasmussen will zusammen mit einer Gruppe von Wissenschaftlern die bislang unerforschten Regionen Nordkanadas kartografieren – vor allem aber will er den Menschen begegnen und ihre Mythen und Geschichten aufzeichnen. Über ein Jahr lang besucht er verschiedene Inuit-Gemeinschaften und macht die Bekanntschaft mit dem großen Schamanen Awwa und dessen Familie. Awwa ist der letzte der Schamanen, denn auch die christlichen Missionare sind bis hoch in den Norden vorgedrungen. Das Leben der Inuit steht vor dem großen Umbruch.

Ab 1923 führt Knud Rasmussens große Forschungsreise entlang der legendären, fast 6000 Kilometer langen Nordwestpassage bis zur Beringstraße. Mit nur einem Hundeschlitten unterwegs, ist die dreiköpfige Expeditionsgemeinschaft in diesem Abenteuer ganz auf sich gestellt.

Das Schneekind von Nicolas Vanier

KANADA & ALASKA. Die Geschichte von der Erfüllung eines Lebenstraums und Abenteuers: Der weltberühmte Abenteurer Nicolas Vanier zieht mit seiner Frau Diane und der kleinen Tochter Montaine für ein Jahr in die Wildnis von Kanada und Alaska. Sie bauen sich ein Blockhaus und ernähren sich wie die Menschen früherer Zeiten: vom Jagen, Fischen und Sammeln. Es ist ein Leben im Einklang mit der gewaltigen Natur des hohen Nordens, voller Einfachheit, Klarheit und Poesie.

Iditarod von Gary Paulsen

ALASKA. Das Iditarod ist das längste Hundeschlittenrennen der Welt. Es führt über mehr als 1850 Kilometer durch die kaum berührte Natur von Alaska. Seit 1973 wird auf Teilen der historischen Strecke des Iditarod Trails, von Anchorage nach Nome, alljährlich im März das Hunderennen ausgetragen. Eindrucksvoll beschreibt Gary Paulsen, wie er sich auf das härteste Rennen der Welt vorbereitet. Er macht dabei jeden erdenklichen Anfängerfehler und paart diese mit gelungener Selbstironie. Es ist eine Geschichte über Menschen, Hunde und die Entwicklung einer ganz außergewöhnlichen Beziehung zwischen ihnen. Ein tolles Abenteuer, ich habe viel gelacht und dabei viel über Hundeschlitten gelernt. Dieses Buch ist eines von denen, die man einfach so verschlingt.

Birds of North America and Greenland

Die Nearctic-Region, die sich über den größten Teil Nordamerikas erstreckt, einschließlich Kanada und Grönland, beherbergt eine unglaublich reiche Vielfalt an Vogelarten. Das Bestimmungsbuch Birds of North America und Greenland deckt mehr als 900 Vogelarten ab und ist dennoch prägnant, kompakt und benutzerfreundlich. Alle Arten werden knapp beschrieben und die wichtigsten Merkmale zur Identifikation sind aufgelistet. Insgesamt 102 Farbtafeln zeigen die verschiedenen Gefiedertypen.

DuMont Reise-Taschenbuch Reiseführer Grönland von Sabine Barth

GRÖNLAND. Das Interesse an den Polarregionen hat in den letzten Jahren stark zugenommen, immer häufiger wird Grönland, die größte Insel der Welt, Ziel von Urlaubsreisen. Besonders im Fokus stehen Grönlands Riesengletscher, die an den Rändern des kilometerdicken Inlandeisschildes unter berstendem Krachen ins Eismeer kalben. Scheinbar schwerelos treiben die dabei losgelösten haushohen Eisberge beispielsweise durch den Kangia-Fjord aufs offene Meer. Sabine Barth erklärt, wie und wo man dem Eis besonders nahe kommt und wie man die kalte Insel auch individuell bereisen kann. Ein besonderes Plus des Reiseführers sind mehrere Aktivtouren, wie z. B. eine Wanderung auf den Berg Ukkusissat, mit Wanderbeschreibungen und Detailkarten.

Buchtipps zur Antarktis

Hier findet ihr meine Buchempfehlungen zur Antarktis. Das sind beispielsweise die Berichte der großen Antarktis Expeditionen von Shakleton, Amundsen und Scott. Darüber hinaus habe ich noch einige Bücher von Abenteurern unserer Zeit sowie Bestimmungsbücher und Reiseführer, die ich euch empfehlen kann.

635 Tage im Eis: Die Shackleton-Expedition von Alfred Lansing

Am Anfang steht der Plan von der erstmaligen Durchquerung des weißen Kontinents. Doch das gewaltige Naturwunder Antarktis wird im Jahr 1915 für die Crew der ‘Endurance’ zur Hölle aus Eis. Beharrlich verfolgt Expeditionsleiter Sir Ernest Shackleton bald nur noch ein Ziel: 28 Männer lebend wieder in die Zivilisation zurückzubringen.

Lansing hat hier eines meiner Lieblingsbücher zur Antarktis geschrieben. Ich liebe die Geschichte der Shackleton-Expedition und lese daher alles, was mir dazu in die Finger kommt. Shackleton ist in meinen Augen der heldenhafteste aller Polarforscher. Keiner seiner Mannschaft ist bei der Expedition ums Leben gekommen. Sein Kampf um das Überleben aller, seine klugen Entscheidungen und Gespür für Dynamiken im Team beeindrucken mich immer wieder. Und immer, wenn ich vor einer schweren Herausforderung stehe, denke ich an Shackleton und seine Mannschaft – das macht mir Mut und meine eigene kleine Herausforderung fällt mir dann plötzlich viel leichter.

Gestrandet in der weißen Hölle von Heide Wilts

Ein Klassiker der Segelliteratur. Es ist schon einige Jahre her, dennoch ist die Strandung von Heide und Erich Wilts mit ihrer 15-m-Yacht FREYDIS in der Antarktis immer noch tief im kollektiven Seglergedächtnis verankert. Jetzt, wo die FREYDIS dem Tsunami vor Fukushima endgültig zum Opfer gefallen ist, erinnert man sich wieder: Wie die FREYDIS in der Antarktis scheiterte und damit für Heide Wilts und ihren Mann Erich der Kampf ums Überleben begann. Ein Kampf, der sechs Monate dauern sollte und in diesem Buch ungeheuer packend geschildert wird. Ein Klassiker der Segelliteratur, spannend von der ersten bis zur letzten Seite, ein Bericht über große physische und psychische Kraft, ein authentisches Abenteuer.

Wollt ihr sehen, wie es auf Deception Island aussieht? Dann schaut euch meinen Artikel an.

Die S.E.A.-Expedition – Eine antarktische Reise auf Shackletons Spuren von Tina Uebel und Nikolaus Hansen

Im Bann eines der größten Polarforscher aller Zeiten: Ein Jahrhundert nach Ernest Shackleton folgt die Expedition »S.E.A. – Sir Ernest’s Anniversary« seinem Weg nach dem Untergang der Endurance im Weddellmeer. Dafür brechen zehn Männer und zwei Frauen Ende 2015 zu einem Segeltörn über den wildesten Ozean der Welt auf. Unter schwierigsten Bedingungen gelangen sie von den Falklandinseln über Elephant Island bis nach Südgeorgien, wo ein Teil des Teams auf Skiern die dramatische Gletscherlandschaft überquert. Die Crewmitglieder Nikolaus Hansen und Tina Uebel halten das gewagte Unterfangen in einem mitreißenden Bericht fest, ergänzt durch einzigartige Aufnahmen unberührter Eislandschaften. Dabei zeichnen sie den Verlauf von Shackletons Rettungsaktion nach und zeigen, weshalb sie die Menschen bis heute fasziniert.

Antarktis (Reisehandbuch) von Christian Walther

Dieses ReiseHandbuch wendet sich an alle, die mehr über den Kontinent am Südpol erfahren möchten, darunter auch die, die konkret eine Reise in die Antarktis planen. Der erste Buchteil enthält umfassende landeskundliche Informationen zur Antarktis: Entdeckungsgeschichte, Geowissenschaften, Klima, Ozonproblematik, Eis, Forschung, Tourismus, Flora, Fauna u.v.a. werden mit Bildern, Tabellen und Zeichnungen veranschaulicht. Eine realistische Möglichkeit, den entlegenen und extremen Kontinent zu bereisen, stellen organisierte Kreuzfahrten dar. Im zweiten Teil des Buches beschreibt der Autor über 60 Orte in der Antarktis, auf den Südshetland-, Südorkney- und Falklandinseln, in Südgeorgien und Südamerika, die wegen ihrer landschaftlichen Einmaligkeit von den Kreuzfahrtschiffen bevorzugt angelaufen werden oder auf der Anfahrtsroute liegen. Der dritte Teil informiert den Leser in den Reise-Infos von A bis Z über alle praktischen Fragen zur Vorbereitung und Durchführung einer Antarktisreise und beendet mit kommentierten Literaturempfehlungen, den gehaltvollen, mit einer Vielzahl von farbigen Abbildungen, hervorragenden Karten und anschaulichen Skizzen ausgestatteten Band.

Welches sind eure Lieblingsbücher über die Arktis oder Antarktis? Habt ihr noch ein paar Ergänzungen für meine Liste? Wenn ja, dann schreibt mir doch einen Kommentar!

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Flight cancellations are not uncommon

“"I'll come back from my vacation later. But I don't know when. I'll get back to you in three days. Maybe I'll know more then." -My conversation partner at the other end of the telephone line giggled a bit in disbelief. It was the secretary of my boss. My boss has probably never heard anything like this before. Especially when it's the first holiday after the probationary period.

“Your Flight is cancelled due to whether conditions”.

Air Iceland

We felt like we were in the comedy "And daily greets the groundhog". Because every morning we got the same SMS message from Air Iceland. At the end of February 2015 a storm low over Greenland and Iceland led to flight cancellations. At first nothing unusual for the Arctic. Only the duration was unusual. For two weeks no aircraft flew between Rejkjavik and Kulusuk in East Greenland. In the supermarket the fresh supplies became scarce, there was no more butter, eggs or potatoes. Fruit and vegetables also not, but that was anyway little in demand. In Iceland travel groups waited for their onward flight, group trips were cancelled and the hotels in Rejkjavik were fully booked. But we were happy about an extended vacation in Greenland.

By the way: Also the flight from Reykjavik to Kulusuk needed several approaches: First it was a storm, which kept the airplane on the ground. On the second day we took off. Due to a technical defect the plane had to turn around and return to Reykjavik.

TipDon't plan your flights too tightly when travelling in arctic regions. With a buffer day for the outward and return flight or even before the start of an expensive tour you avoid unnecessary stress.

The Red House in Tasiilaq

In the Red House in Tasiilaq, Robert Peroni provided us with Italian-Greenland cuisine and stories about the country and its people. The season hadn't really started yet and we were only six guests in the Red House, which created a homely atmosphere.

The Red House is at your side all year round with a professional team and organises one-day and multi-day tours for groups or individually. But it is also a place where you can get in touch with locals and encounter the Inuit culture. Here you can feel the love and passion that the founder Robert Peroni brought to the construction of this place. This love and passion is contagious.

While snowstorms made our stay in East Greenland a little longer, we had a lot to do. The Red House was so snowed in that we regularly had to dig our room window out of the snow. Afterwards, however, it was blown over again in shortest time.

Snowshoeing

Directly behind the Red House, a headland stretches about two kilometres in a southeasterly direction. This area is ideal for snowshoe hikes. After ten minutes the place Tasiilaq is no longer visible and you feel like in the wilderness. From the headland you have a great view of the icy polar current with some frozen icebergs in the winder.

Another beautiful and extensive hiking area lies northwest of Tasiilaq, behind the cemetery. There are mountains that can be easily climbed with snowshoes and from here you have a great view over Tasiilaq and the fjord with the ice-fishers.

You can rent snowshoes and poles in various sizes at the Red House.

With the dog sled from Tasiilaq to Tiniteqilaaq

Cold, wind and freedom. This is what the title of a book by Robert Peroni says. His book about East Greenland. And these three words describe quite exactly our trip with the dog sled from Tasiilaq to Tiniteqilaaq. A ride that was the absolute highlight of our trip to Greenland in winter already after the first three minutes. Read the whole story here.

Polar lights and polar bears

There's hardly anyone who doesn't dream of seeing the northern lights. It is an indescribable moment when you experience them for the first time. Because it's like magic, immersing the sky in green and violet color. An unparalleled natural spectacle that makes you forget everything around you - even that there are polar bears here.

We were reminded of the polar bears, however, soon after we were fascinated by the polar lights. A large footprint of a polar bear - directly in front of the Red House - of our accommodation. And so perhaps 150 metres from the vantage point from which we observed the northern lights. What a shock! We wouldn't have noticed if a polar bear had approached. We have learnt from this and since then we have always looked for polar bears and aurora borealis alternately.

In the following days we also got a rifle from Robert on our hikes. So we could have fired a warning shot when meeting a bear, which hopefully would have driven him away. We now knew that there was a polar bear nearby. It was a queasy feeling and my eyes always searched the area with extreme vigilance. Fortunately we didn't see one.

Photo gallery - Greenland in winter

Here you can see my favourite photos from our trip to Greenland in winter 2015.

Book Recommendations for Greenland

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Have you ever been to Greenland? How did you like it? Do you have any questions about my article? If yes, then write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Recommendations for further Reading

Would you like to hear more stories about Greenland's inland ice cream? Then have a look at my article polar literature. Here I have put together my favourite books about the polar and subpolar world for you. Below you will find several book tips on crossing the inland ice.

Want to know more about travelling in Greenland? Then click here for my article about my Hike to the Ice Cap at Eqi Glacier.

Der Beitrag Grönland im Winter erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

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What to expect in this Article

On the Way with the Dog Sled
The Greenland Dog
The Dog Sled Team
Seal Hunting in Winter
Tips for your Dog Sledding Tour
Photo Gallery

On the Way with the Dog Sled

It starts with a strong jerk. My camera flies around my ears and I just manage to hold on to the loading area of the sled. There are 14 Greenlandic sled dogs stretched out in front of the sledges. The musher has pulled the anchor out of the snow and drives the animals. He stands behind me on the sled runners. After the first shock I made myself comfortable on the loading area of the sled and leaned against our luggage. Warmly wrapped up in several layers of insulation, I travel over snow and ice to Tiniteqilaaq. Driving the dog sled from Tasiilaq to Tiniteqilaaq is the absolute highlight of our winter trip to East Greenland. And a quotation from Knud Rasmussen gets stuck in my head:

Give me dogs, give me snow, you can keep the rest.

Knud Rasmussen

Find out more about our winter trip to Greenland and why you should plan a bit more time for it here.

But as soon as I have settled down on the loading area of the sled, I have to go up again. It goes uphill. The dogs are not well trained at the beginning of the season. So push along! The dogs insist on it and make this also unmistakably clear. They slow down, stop and turn around. Only after they have made sure that musher and passenger help, they move on. Wrapped up like a Michelin male, I struggled in the deep snow. After a short time I was out of breath. At the same time my respect for the animals grows with every step forward.

The Greenland Dog

The Greenland dog is extremely persistent and faithful and can easily pull its double body weight. With its dense coat, it is also optimally adapted to the cold Greenland temperatures. Even in winter and in the strongest storms the dog stays outside. To stay warm he digs himself a trough and in the worst case even gets snowed in. Because the snow insulates. The Greenland dog has been part of the Inuit culture for centuries and has long been vital for the survival of hunters and their families. Greenlandic sled dogs are pure-bred and are subject to the strictest breeding regulations. To protect the breed and its resistance, the keeping of foreign breeds is not permitted in Greenland.

The Sledge Team

The dog sled is the traditional means of transport for the locals in winter and was essential for survival in earlier times. Until today the snowmobile could not displace this reliable vehicle. The team is steered with only few commands and sometimes also with a whip. The Musher knows its dogs and in particular its leader dog very exactly.

The sled is so light that it can also drive over thin ice. It is even said that the dogs stop instinctively if the ice is too thin to cross. They are also the best protection against polar bears you could wish for.

The traditional sleigh teams in Greenland are a bit different than you might know them from Scandinavia. There the dogs are attached to the right and left of a main leash. In Greenland, on the other hand, the dogs are fan-shaped and stretched in front of the sleds. Each animal pulls its own rope, which is directly connected to the sled. This is advantageous when driving on ice surfaces. The weight of the team is thus distributed over a larger area and the animals have more freedom of movement. However, this freedom of movement is also sometimes a disaster. Namely then, when oncoming traffic comes. It happens relatively rarely in the vastness of East Greenland, but when a dog sled came towards our 14 animals, only a huge knot of wild barking dogs and green ropes could be spotted within seconds.

Even during regular driving it can happen that the animals get entangled in the ropes. However, a good musher knows exactly which rope to put his hand on. The rope is briefly taken off by the sled and untangled during full speed.

After a bumpy start and the steeper sections uphill everything worked out fine, the ride is a relaxed pleasure. I have enough time to take pictures of the landscape and the rear parts of the dogs. The view from the pass is breathtakingly beautiful and soon the settlement of Tiniteqilaaq comes into sight. Seal hunting in winter

Seal Hunting in Winter

Tiniteqilaaq has about 100 inhabitants, only half as many as 30 years ago. The inhabitants mainly live from seal catching, fishing and tourism. Tourists are also taken on the seal hunt. Since I wanted to learn more about the people and living conditions here, we also went out. However, I could hardly imagine how we could get out of the mostly icy bay and into the open water by boat.

In the morning we start with two small but strongly motorized boats. Our captain gets the swing and drives on the ice, which partly gives way. Further towards the middle, the ice becomes firmer and the boat remains on the ice. Now we push until the boat slides back into the water. Then the first boat pulls the second boat with a rope over the ice. I am very impressed by these tricks and glad that our small boat did not capsize or leak.

We were on the road for four hours. The hunters didn't kill a seal. I was relieved. But after I saw the food prices in the local supermarket in the evening, I felt sorry for the hunters and their families. The ingredients for a simple dinner for two people cost us 35 Euros.

Tips for your Dog Sledding Tour

During my trip with the dog sled from Tasiilaq to Tiniteqilaaq I learned a lot. Now I would like to share these experiences with you so that you can enjoy your tour completely.

We organized the tour through The Red House by Robert Peroni. Robert arranges contacts to locals who take guests with them on their sleds. The sledges are also used for hunting.

1. Contact with the Animals

Greenland sled dogs are by no means comparable to our pet dogs. Better pet the dogs with caution. If you want to be on the safe side, then talk to the musher first, because he knows his dogs inside out and can tell you who is happy about stroking.

The dogs look wild, maybe they are too. But I quickly realized that I don't have to be afraid of them. They are very busy asserting and defending their rank within their pack and are not very interested in humans. We also had young dogs with us on our tour who were running free for training purposes. They were a little more interested in humans. These free dogs can get a bit too curious especially for us women during the pee breaks... but after they have explored the situation, they usually disappear again.

2. Hold on and stow everything well

Make sure that you hold on tight when driving off and secure the camera.

Stow all objects (e.g. beverage bottles) well so that nothing gets lost on the way. Stopping the animals was a difficult undertaking, at least for us, and the braking distance is long.

3. Onion Layer Principle

Dress warmly, but be sure to dress in the tried and tested onion layer principle. If you run uphill or push along, you'll soon get too warm. Take off your clothes in time, that means before you start sweating. Otherwise you'll get cold very quickly afterwards.

Keep in mind that the weather can change quickly. So rather take a warming layer too much than too little with you.

4. Sun Protection

Take a good pair of sunglasses or better still glacier glasses or ski goggles as well as sun cream with a high sun protection factor.

5. Provisions

The dog sled ride from Tasiilaq to Tiniteqilaaq can take a whole day depending on snow conditions. So take some provisions for the breaks and be sure to drink enough. Even if it is cold, but if you have pushed the sled for a while, you will also get thirsty.

6. Language

Not all Greenlanders speak English. It is helpful to learn a few words of Danish or to install a translator app on your mobile phone. I can recommend the app from Bing, because you can also use it offline. Then all you have to do is keep the phone warm - otherwise the battery will quickly run out in the cold.

Did polar fever get you? Then you will find the best medicine in my article polar literature die beste Medizin.

Photo Gallery

Here you come to the photo gallery.

Book Recommendations for Greenland

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Have you ever been to Greenland? How did you like it? Do you have any questions about my article? If yes, then write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Recommendations for further Reading

Hiking tour from the Eqi Glacier to the Greenland Ice Sheet on your own

Lofoten and Vesterålen - Winter Highlights

Der Beitrag Mit Hundeschlitten von Tasiilaq nach Tiniteqilaaq erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

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The Polar Explorer Paul-Émile Victor

Paul-Émile Victor (1907-1995) was a famous French polar explorer and founder of the Expéditions Polaires Françaises (1947). After the Second World War, he resumed French polar expeditions. He also involved Germany in active polar research. In 1967, the German Society for Polar Research awarded him its highest award, the Karl Weyprecht Medal.

He organized his first expeditions to Greenland in 1934-1935. In 1936, he crossed the Greenland ice sheet with dog sleds from west to east. He then spent the winter with the Inuit on the east coast in Ammassalik. In 1939 he did ethnological studies in Lapland. During the war years he served first in the French Navy and then in the US Air Force. There he organized rescue operations for missing pilots in the Arctic regions.

From the Eqi Glacier (Eqip Sermia) Paul-Émile Victor led several expeditions on the inland ice between 1948 and 1953. From here the ice sheet is relatively easy to reach. In addition, there is a small natural harbour to land by boat. The way to the ice cap is relatively short and flat. Besides Paul-Émile Victor, other polar explorers started their expeditions from here and left their tracks, which we now follow.

The French Polar Expeditions 1948-1953

The French polar expeditions in the years 1948-1953 investigated the geophysical properties of the inland ice. They also carried out seismic measurements to determine the thickness of the ice and investigated the temperatures in the ice cap. The results were to provide information on the influence of the Greenland ice cap on the northern hemisphere.

The first expedition, in 1948, aimed to build a 10 kilometre long route from the bay to the ice sheet and a 200 metre long cable car. The cable car was to be used to transport equipment from the bottom station up to the edge of the ice cap. A total of 28 scientists and technicians were involved in this expedition.

In 1949 a group of 35 men built the winter station "Station Centrale" in the middle of the ice cap. Equipment was transported there by airplane. From the "Station Centrale" in the years 1950 to 1953 extended expeditions were started on the ice cap in the direction of southeast and northwest.

The Expéditions Polaires Françaises was the first organisation to introduce new techniques from the Second World War to polar research. Among other things, motorised tracked vehicles, air transport, the use of parachutes and new materials. Nowadays they are widely used on expeditions. Long-distance journeys with tracked vehicles over the inland ice were carried out and fixed stations for observations were set up. This was accompanied by the development of innovative techniques for polar research, for example:

• the use of tracked vehicles with integrated accommodation for long-distance journeys
• the use of lightweight metal carriages for the transport of heavy equipment
• air transport and dropping of supplies
• Power generation by wind generators under extreme conditions

Traces of the expeditions can still be seen on the way to the ice sheet.

Our Hiking Tour on the Tracks of Paul-Émile Victor from the Eqi Glacier to the Ice Sheet

Getting there

Our mini expedition to the Greenlandic inland ice begins in Illulisat with a trip on the excursion boat. It takes us to Glacier Lodge Eqi. This is a small hut settlement built around the old hut of the French polar explorer Paul-Émile Victor. Already the 5 hour boat trip to the Eqi glacier is a special experience. The route leads along the coast to the north, past Bredebugt, the settlement Oqaatsut and the big fjord system Pakitsoq. We continue through the Ataa road, which is surrounded by steep mountains, bird cliffs and waterfalls. Whales and seals can often be seen on the trips.

Trekking boots, hiking poles, gloves and everything else you might need for your hike in Greenland can be found at Bergzeit.

Eqi Glacier

We can already see the Eqi glacier from a distance. The glacier front extends over approx. 3.4 kilometres. The average height is about 200 metres, but only 30 to 80 metres above sea level.

The boat brings us close to the edge of the glacier. Here we can see and above all hear the calving of the glacier from close up for two hours: The air bubbles trapped in the ice are under pressure. As soon as a piece of ice breaks off, the air expands with a loud thunder-like noise. Waves follow the thunder. The larger the piece of ice dropped, the higher the waves. A "tsunami wave" was even so high and powerful that it washed away the wooden landing stage at Port Victor. After mooring the boat in Port Victor, we have to hurry. We have to get off the boat quickly and continue straight away to the designated safe area. This is marked with a sign and is about 3 to 4 meters above the waterline.

Way to the Ice Sheet

After a refreshment in the Cafe Victor we set off in the late afternoon towards the inland ice. A hike through breathtaking scenery, over windy mountain ridges, through valleys and past meltwater lakes. On the way we observe several white snow hares, an arctic fox and perfectly camouflaged ptarmigan with chicks.

The distance to the ice sheet is about 12 kilometres and 500 metres of altitude difference. The course is not difficult to walk and is easy to see in most places. About half way we find a great camp for the night, where we pitch our tents. Sheltered from the wind behind a rock and directly opposite a clear lake with best water. From here we start our day trip the next day with light luggage on the inland ice. Meanwhile the tents stay on the spot for the next night.

We follow the tracks of the expedition. After several decades they are still clearly visible. I realize how sensitive Arctic nature is and how much time it takes to regenerate. I try to leave as few new traces as possible and to stay on the already existing paths and paths.

We finally reach a wide valley where the remains of the cable car valley station are located. Around the cable car there are other equipment of the expeditions of that time partly scattered, partly collected on a heap. There are remains of a metal sledge, a radiator and several petrol canisters. Behind the valley, a winding path leads steeply up over a windy mountain pass. Behind it, the glacier moraine begins. The path gets lost between the stones and we look for our own way through the slightly rising scree field. The closer we get to the ice sheet, the more noticeable the ice became. Cold wind blows towards us.

The Ice Cap

Behind the glacier moraine there is nothing but ice and snow for the next 1000 kilometres. I feel an awe for nature in me, as I have felt it several times in Greenland. After I have worked through the first overwhelming impression of the expanse, it goes a bit further up to the ice cap. There is a lot to discover here. Various shapes and structures in the ice, holes and cracks, crevices and faults, rivulets and small lakes with melt water.

With an area of about 1.8 million square kilometres, the ice sheet is about five times as large as Germany and covers about 82% of Greenland. On average, the ice is about 1500 metres thick. At the highest points the thickness is up to 3000 metres.

The tour to the inland ice on the tracks of the old polar explorers belonged to one of my most impressive experiences in Greenland. If you prefer not to be alone, you can also do this hike as a guided tour with an overnight stay in a tent at Eqi Base Camp. Equipment (tent, sleeping bag, mat) will be provided. You will also have professional guides with satellite phones with you. Bookings can be made via World of Greenland, for example World of Greenland.

Book Recommendations for Greenland

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Have you ever been to Greenland? How did you like it? Do you have any questions about my article? If yes, then write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Recommendations for further Reading

Would you like to hear more stories about Greenland's inland ice cream? Then have a look at my article polar literature. Here I have put together my favourite books about the polar and subpolar world for you. Below you will find several book tips on crossing the inland ice.

Want to know more about travelling in Greenland? Then click here for my article about my Winter Trip to East Greenland. Oder lieber gleich zur Gallery?

Der Beitrag Hiking Tour vom Eqi-Gletscher zum grönländischen Inlandeis auf eigene Faust erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.