Ecuador. In the east of Ecuador, beyond the Andes, the rainforests of the Amazon basin begin. Here live monkeys, exotic birds, caimans, river dolphins, and millions and millions of insects. The forests are almost impenetrably overgrown and the primary means of transportation are boats in all imaginable forms. A jungle tour in the Amazon - on foot or by boat - is a highlight of every trip to Ecuador. Together with our guide, we traveled by canoe and speedboat from El Coca across the Rio Napo to Peru . You will learn what we experienced and what you should not miss on your jungle tour in the following article. In addition, you will get many practical tips for your stay in the Amazon of Ecuador.

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links*.

At a Glance

The rough route of our 8-day jungle tour in the Amazon of Ecuador:

• El Coca via the Rio Napo to the Pilchi Commune
• From Pilchi commune by speedboat to Nueva Rocafuerte and on to Yasuni Warmi, to see the pink river dolphins.
• Back from Yasuni Warmi to Nueva Rocafuerte and continue by speedboat to El Coca

Highlights: Pink river dolphins, parrot salt lick sites, night hikes, and night canoe trip, narrow "black water" rivers and lagoons, and last but not least the lush vegetation of the rainforest.

What to expect in this Article

On the Rio Napo in Ecuadorian Amazonia
Guest at the Amazon Lodge Pilche
Jungle walk in the Amazon of Ecuador
Oil Exploration in the National Park?!?!
Pañacocha Lagoon - Swimming with Piranhas
Napo Wildlife Center in the Añangu Community
Night in the Rainforest
By speedboat downriver to Nuevo Rocafuerte
Pink River Dolphins from Yasu Warmi
Night Trip by Canoe on the Aguarico River
For a Drink to Peru: Cabo Pantoja
Yasuni River and Jatuncocha Lagoon
Speedboat from Nueva Rocafuerte to El Coca
Tips for your Packing List
How to get to El Coca?

And now: Off into the jungle!

On the Rio Napo in Ecuadorian Amazonia

Only one day before I wore long underpants and thick gloves on the Illinizas Norte. Now I almost collapse from the heat. When we arrive in El Coca it is about 34° Celsius. After we have settled the formalities in the office of our tour provider and received our rubber boots, we continue to the boat dock. Here our motorized canoe is waiting to take us across the Rio Napo to our first accommodation in the Pilchi community.

The water of the Rio Napo reminds me of a lukewarm cappuccino. The river carries so much sediment and suspended matter that visibility in the water is zero. Besides the many small suspended particles, there are lots of branches and even whole trees floating in the water. These sometimes pile up into wild formations on the sandbanks or have wedged themselves into islets. Our boat driver skillfully avoids all obstacles and tries to follow the main current of the river. Smaller pieces of wood keep hitting the steel wall of our canoe. In order to offer as little attack surface as possible, the canoe has a flat hull with very little draft.

Guest at the Amazon Lodge Pilche

The Amazon Lodge Pilche in Indillama is a project of the Kichwa community in the Yasuní National Park. Members of the community run the lodge, drive the canoes, work as guides, or explain their culture during guided tours and other events. Here we are guests for the next three days. As soon as we arrive, we get a taste of what it means to be in the rainforest. A torrential downpour suddenly breaks out of the clouds and we look out of the windows of our hut with wide eyes. But after ten minutes it's all over again and we get ready for our first jungle walk.

Jungle walk in the Amazon of Ecuador

Our first jungle tour! Lubricated with insect repellent and equipped with rubber boots and a camera, we set off into the jungle. After the first few meters, we already see leaf-cutting ants as well as cacao beans, which grow as parasites on other trees. On wooden planks, we continue through the swamp into the forest. Different sounds reach our ears from all sides: Monkeys that sound like lions or birds that remind us of a car horn. We marvel at gigantic spider webs (without the expected monster spiders) and huge butterflies whose wings are blue on the inside and have a large eye on the outside.

It is amazing what you can see here within a few meters. You just have to know where and what to look for. Our guide has practiced this and shows us the most different insects. Suddenly there is a crash above us in the treetops: a monkey horde. One of the female monkeys was even carrying her baby on her back. What a great beginning! Soon we start our way back. Just in time to see the sunset over the Rio Napo. The sky coloring is just unbelievably beautiful.

Oil Exploration in the National Park?!?!

During dinner, our guide tells us more about the conflicts between the communities and the oil industry: In Yasuni National Park alone, there are 16 oil industry blocks, each with 400 to 600 workers.

A disaster happened about 16 years ago: a pipeline burst. The water was contaminated making fishing impossible for a long time. Tankers had to bring drinking water to the communities and food had to be brought in as well. However, adequate compensation from the oil company was not forthcoming. Nature has recovered to some extent from the worst consequences of this disaster. Nevertheless, the permanent strain on the ecosystem is clear: the jungle has become increasingly empty in recent years. Who's surprised? The gas flames at oil production facilities alone burn countless insects and birds every night, attracted by the light of the flames.

Want to know more about species conservation, jungles, and indigenous peoples? Here are a few books* to browse.

Pañacocha Lagoon - Swimming with Piranhas

t is still dark when we get up. But the first birds and insects are already preparing for the sunrise and are already making a lot of noise. We get into our canoe and set off. Our destination is the Pañacocha Lagoon. It is a gem among the waters in the Ecuadorian jungle and also popular with river dolphins. Maybe we will be lucky and see one of these special animals.

But we are still on the Rio Napo. The river is covered by fog, the other bank can only be guessed. The wind is cold and I put on my long sleeve and soon after my rain jacket. I would never have thought it possible that I would get cold here in the jungle.

After a short time, our guide surprises us with a stop at a steep bank. It is a parrot lick. Hundreds of Green Amazons hang on the steep bank or fly around. What a confused and noisy mess.

On we go, always downstream. We now see more and more huts, small landing stages as well as small banana plantations on the left bank. Then we turn into the Rio Pañayacu.

The narrow river winds in countless curves, behind every corner it is more beautiful than before and my eyes get bigger and bigger. The palm trees are reflected in the water, now and then lianas hang like a curtain over the river, and on the banks, everything grows on top of and over each other. After a while, the lagoon finally opens up. It is so beautiful and we are all alone. The two lodges that exist here are closed because of Covid and the resulting lack of visitors in the Amazon of Ecuador.

Another Jungle Walk

Equipped for our jungle walk, we walk through the abandoned site and already see the first snake. Its head is poisonous green but nevertheless, it is not supposed to be poisonous at all. Our guide shows us the combs of an empty ant nest at the entrance to the trail. Now a tarantula lives here, but it is completely unimpressed by us. We see more spiders, numerous butterflies, a tiny frog, and a lizard during our hike. After about an hour I am soaked through. Only one thing helps: off into the water!

Cooling down in the Pañacocha lagoon. Will I be eaten now?

Anyone who goes into the water in the Amazon is eaten by piranhas. And those who don't get eaten are instead infested with parasites that invade the body. Is that right? I have our guide assure me at least three times that I will survive a swim in the Pañacocha Lagoon. Finally, I am the last of our small group of four to slide into the cappuccino-brown water. It's warm, but still a refreshing treat. Besides, it's so murky that I can just about see my hands underwater. To make boarding easier, we have tied a small wooden canoe to the side of our big motorized canoe. Easier boarding? Well, we manage it and almost sink the small canoe. After laughing hard, it's time to shovel water.

We continue after a lunch break to Laguna Piguali. Here everything looks a bit wilder again. We see even more birds than before, including hoazins, a red macaw, cormorants, an osprey, and several herons. Even a monkey horde shows up. And on the way back, shortly before the Rio Napo, even a river dolphin appears in front of our boat. Unfortunately, I see the dolphin only in the corner of my eye, then everything was already over.

After a short visit to the family that lives at the mouth of the Rio Pañayacu, we finally make our way back. The sun is already low and the sky in front of us is slowly changing color. It is the 31st of December, we have beer and cookies to celebrate. We celebrate New Year's Eve with a delicious dinner back at our lodge in the Pilchi Commune. But after one glass of wine, we were already so exhausted that we say goodbye.

Napo Wildlife Center in the Añangu Community

Above the Trees

What a view! We start the new year with a trip to the Napo Wildlife Center. To be exact: to the 42-meter-high observation tower. The way up to the observation deck seems to have no end at first. The stairway spirals up and up and at some point we reach the first treetops. Finally, we are at eye level with a nest of the Montezuma Oropendola. It hangs dangling like an overripe fruit from a large tree right next to the tower. I wait for a while. But unfortunately, it seems not to be in use right now. It goes up even further. Slowly I get a little queasy and hold on to the railing. Promptly I am bitten by an ant. Fortunately, it was not one of those "Bullet Ants", because their bite is said to hurt as much as a shot from a pistol.

With every floor we climb, the view gets better. From the top we finally have a fantastic panoramic view over the Amazon of Ecuador: the Rio Napo on one side and on the other side a sea of leaves in different shades of green. Only the birds don't really want to show themselves. Only a red macaw flies as a small colorful dot over the sea of leaves and disappears as quickly as he came.

Parrots Salt Lick

Afterward, we go upstream a little bit from the observation tower. Our captain navigates skillfully between logs and sandbars and brings us to a sandy bay. From here it is about 800 meters to Clay Lick, another salt lick.

The Napo Wildlife Center salt lick in the Añangu community is said to be the most accessible in the Amazon of Ecuador.

Several dozen miller amazons (which are small green parrots) perch on the ground, lick salt, drink, argue fly up, and land again. But all at once they all fly up. The lick, which was densely besieged a minute ago, is now completely deserted. Finally, two red macaws arrive and make my photographer's heart beat faster. After about half an hour the first Miller's Macaws show up again. At first, they squat indecisively on the tree branches and between the huge leaves of a plant whose name I, unfortunately, don't know. But soon there is again colorful activity at the Clay Lick site. This time even a few of the pretty golden-cheeked parrots mingle with the miller amazons.

The clay lick can be easily seen from a small observation hut. There one sits somewhat hidden, does not disturb the parrots too much, and is still protected from possible rain. An information board on the wall lists all the parrot species found here: there are, believe it or not, ten different parrot species. We saw three different species during our stay.

What has worked best for me when photographing in the jungle?

Night in the Rainforest

Search for Caimans

With rubber boots, mosquito spray as well as headlamps we set out for our first night hike after dinner. Our destination are the ponds behind the Pilchi community center. There live caimans, a kind of small crocodile. You can see caimans best at night because their eyes reflect orange-red in the light of the flashlight. It doesn't take us long to find our first caiman. A baby. In the neighboring pond there is another infant caiman hanging around. Its head looks out and its body hangs vertically down into the water. What a funny sight.

There are also frogs, a tarantula, and other spiders as well as numerous other insects that we did not see on our jungle walks during the day. Especially impressive was the plank walk through the swamp at night and the giant frog with the hump on his back right under our wooden hut. It must have been as big as a kitten and croaked loudly.

By the way, insects are known to be attracted to light. So it was not a good idea to put the headlamp on the head. Within fractions of a second, all the flying insects of the jungle had gathered around my head...

Day and Night - two different Worlds in the Jungle

During the day, the jungle sometimes seems empty. At least there, where you normally walk. This is because life takes place mainly on the higher floors. Monkeys shimmy through the treetops, and birds call their fellow species or warn of intruders. On the lower floors, on the other hand, we mainly see insects: Spiders, beetles, grasshoppers, ants, and butterflies. The latter are particularly colorful and also huge compared to our native butterflies.

At night, the density of insects multiplies again: we see more spiders, more beetles as well as more grasshoppers. In addition, there are more species such as scorpions or praying mantises. A night hike in the jungle is simply exciting, everything seems mystical and mysterious and the animals seem even more bizarre in the light of the flashlight.

Tip: turn off your flashlights and experience the total darkness in the middle of the jungle.

During the day we sometimes saw no animals except ants for a long time. It was quiet in the jungle. Then neither bird calls nor raging monkeys could be heard. Our guide thinks that the jungle is changing, there are fewer and fewer animals. Blame the increasing pollution of the ecosystem by the oil drilling we learn.

By speedboat downriver to Nuevo Rocafuerte

Canoes of all sizes ply the Rio Napo, most of them motorized. Probably the most powerful motor, however, is the public speedboat that runs between El Coca and Nuevo Rocafuerte. The boat, almost full and crammed with luggage, collects us at the jetty of the Pilchi commune. Somehow we manage to squeeze onto the benches with our luggage. The wild ride on the Rio Napo takes two hours and thirty minutes. The wind and the engine roar in my ears and the wind blows refreshingly in my face. Next to me, the water splashes up the sides of the boat. It gets especially high when the boat hooks to avoid wood or sandbars. As a precaution, I tighten the fastener of my life jacket a bit more.

The further we go down the Rio Napo, the more populated is the river bank. The small settlements owe their existence mostly to the oil. We see two large oil tanks of PetrolAmazon and again and again tank trucks that are transported by boats.

Nuevo Rocafuerte

The village of Nuevo Rocafuerte has less than 500 inhabitants. Besides a barracks, the only hospital in the wider area is located here. The nearest roads are about 250 km away.

On the dusty main road, street dogs run up and down, vultures circle overhead and mopeds rattle past us. No one wears helmets here and there are sometimes three or four people sitting on the boxes. We get lunch in one of the hostels. Afterward, we mingle with the people in front of the village pub. Everyone knows everyone here, we are eyed curiously by the locals and wish each other a "Feliz Año Nuevo". I was most impressed by a lady in light blue high heels. She roared up on a quad bike, dragging a long plume of dust behind her. She also greeted us with a hearty "Feliz Año Nuevo!"

We pull ourselves away and head out to buy cookies before our next leg of the trip. For minutes I search the store shelves for Oreo cookies. In vain. Oreo cookies haven't made it this far yet. Always a sure sign to me that I have now reached the end of the world. The saleswoman shows us similar cookies, with which I happily get into the next canoe. This one belongs to the Yasuni Warmi community, where we spend the next three nights. It's a small, open canoe, with no shade and rock-hard stools to sit on. After an hour and a half, I know exactly where my ischial tuberosities are.

Pink River Dolphins from Yasu Warmi

Yasuni Warmi means "women of the water". This means the river dolphins. The context was not clear to me, I think I would have to go deeper into the mythology.

The community of Yasuni Warmi is located at the far end of Ecuador, across the border from Peru. Here the Aguarico River branches off from Rio Napo, and from the Aguarico in turn branches off the blackwater Rio Cocaya. Blackwater means that there is less sediment, but more humic substances and fish in the water. So it is not surprising that the pink river dolphins prefer to stay in the black water rivers and lagoons.

About twelve years ago, the Commune started attracting river dolphins with metal sounds. The curious animals eventually came right up to the jetty and were given a fish as a reward. Therefore, you have the best chance to see the river dolphins here in Yasuni Warmi and maybe even give them a fish or go into the water with them.

On our second to last day in the Amazon of Ecuador we pay another visit to the river dolphins. As soon as we arrive we see two animals hunting for fish at the confluence of the Rio Cocaya and the Aguarico. Marcelo strikes the two metal rods against each other. The rhythmic sound reminds me a bit of the ringing of a church bell. But today the dolphins do not come up to the jetty. Apparently, the animals are more interested in hunting themselves today.

Night Trip by Canoe on the Aguarico River

A night trip by canoe is something very special. It is pleasantly cool and the evening atmosphere on the river at sunset is pure relaxation. But with the darkness it gets more and more exciting. We search the river banks with our flashlights. Who will find some red eyes first?

The primeval-looking caimans usually lurk close to the shore between vegetation. Mostly only the eyes and nostrils look out of the water. Definitely hard to recognize. But if you scan the river banks in the dark with a flashlight, you can spot the caimans quite easily. Then the eyes light up red-orange and cannot be overlooked. Most of the time, however, you only see the eyes from a distance.

During the day we saw a caiman only once. It was well camouflaged in the murky water and lurked near branches sticking out into the water.

For a Drink to Peru: Cabo Pantoja

We say goodbye to Yasu Warmi and continue downstream to the border with Peru. The first town after the border is Cabo Pantoja, formerly Rocafuerte. We stroll along the shore in this village of about 500 inhabitants. There is not much here. Some canoes are lying on the shore, there is a small store and also a bar where we get a cool drink.

Refreshed, we continue in our small open boat. The sun shines relentlessly and the wind stirs up the sand of the shore banks. I slip on my long-sleeved shirt and try to protect myself as best I can from the burning sun. There is no shade. Wind, current, sandbank, and trees in the water make the trip a challenge even for our captain.

Before we turn into the Yasuni River, we make a short photo stop at the border between Peru and Ecuador. From here it is another eight kilometers to the checkpoint at the entrance to the Yasuni National Park.

Yasuni River and Jatuncocha Lagoon

At the checkpoint at the entrance to the Yasuni National Park we have to show our vaccination cards for the first time. Our destination is the Jatuncocha Lagoon, the largest lagoon on the Yasuni River. I am amazed at how different the vegetation of the river is from the vegetation of the previously visited rivers. In addition, the river dolphins seem to like it here very much, because we see several animals at two different sections of the river.

At first, the Jatuncocha Lagoon seems quite unspectacular. But the further we drive in, the more narrow and overgrown it becomes. We meander with the canoe further and further through narrow rivers. My Maps.Me map doesn't show anything here for a long time. Welcome to the wilderness. We see various birds, turtles and even a caiman about two meters long up close.

Farewell to the Jungle

Arrived in Nuevo Rocafuerte we climb the Chimborazo. No, unfortunately not the mountain but the hostel. If only it had been the mountain, we would have gotten more air than in our windowless room, a tiny oven. We have to pay 10 Euro extra for the air conditioning. Dinner is again rice, lentils and slimy-looking boiled banana. Even the dog, who begs me for a bite, spurns the plantain.

Speedboat from Nueva Rocafuerte to El Coca

At 6 o'clock in the morning, the speedboat goes back to El Coca. The trip is supposed to take five hours. I climb onto my cramped seat and settle in. With my thick camera backpack between my legs, I will probably have to remain in the once-assumed position for the entire ride. I wonder if I will ever be able to free my feet if we capsize.

The boat is fast and the wind has no mercy. I put on my rain jacket and close my collar tightly under my chin. After about 40 minutes we stop, take on more guests, and the boat is refueled. To do this, fuel is piped down from a canister at the top of the embankment via a hose that is perhaps six meters long.

A while later we stop again, but this time in the middle of the river. Something seems to be wrong with the engine. While the problem is fixed on the spot, the captain scoops water out of the cockpit in front. Hmmm, does our trip end now? Not at all. Soon we are jetting along, making wild turns to avoid the branches and sandbars on the Rio Napo.

We see a variety of canoes, other speedboats, simple wooden canoes, school boats, Mississippi-style steamboats, and transport ships loaded with cars, trucks, or even tankers.

About halfway, we finally stop for restrooms and to buy snacks and drinks.

On we go. With the water level flat, the captain tries to hit the main current of the river, because this is where the water is deepest and safest to navigate. Suddenly, the boat makes a U-turn and turns diagonally into the bend. Just in time, our captain recognizes the shoal in front of us and drives around it at high speed.

Must haves for the trip with the speedboat:

• Snacks
• Drinks
• Sunglasses
• Sunscreen
• Long sleeve shirt
• Windbreaker jacket
• Music or audio book

Tips for your Packing List

The Amazon region in Ecuador is hot, humid and insects are numerous. In addition, it can rain more or less and on the boats it can be quite cold if you travel fast in the early morning.

For your packing list this means: you need something of everything.

• Sunscreen
• Sunglasses
• Base cap or sun hat
• Umbrella for rain and sun protection on an open boat
• Microfiber towel* for sun protection or for bathing
• Swimsuits
• Insect repellent
• Mosquito nets are available in most accommodations, but it is best to ask again.
• Malaria prophylaxis or malaria medication (check with the tropical institute beforehand)
• Water disinfection tablets, e.g. Micropur Forte*. Most accommodations provide drinking water, but it is better to have purification tablets with you for emergencies.
• Refillable drinking bottles (e.g. two 1 liter Nalgene Bottles*)
• Diarrhea tablets
• Rain protection for backpack and camera bag or waterproof bags
• Rain jacket
• Shorts and long pants (quick-drying material), e.g. zip-off pants from Fjällräven*
• Tops and long-sleeved shirts as sun/insect protection (quick-drying material)
• Sandals and/or closed shoes
• Rubber boots for jungle hikes (usually provided by the tour operator)
• Flashlight for night hikes, e.g. the Petzl Actic headlamp*
• Binoculars, e.g. the handy and waterproof Zeiss Terra ED 8×42*
• Camera equipment. You want to know what I take pictures with?
• If necessary, several camera batteries, chargers, world travel plugs (you may not have power all day and can only charge at certain times)

How to get to El Coca?

You have several options to get from Quito to El Coca:

• Airplane: duration about 40 minutes; cost about $130 - $160 round trip; airlines Latam and Aeroregional.
• Public bus: several times a day, duration about 6.5 to 8 hours; cost about 15-17 dollars. It is not so easy to buy a ticket online. But there is usually the possibility to contact via Whats App. For example Ecua Buses.
• Private transportation in a car: duration about 5 hours; cost about 154 dollars for two passengers. Where. For example, at Ecuador Bus. At MyDayTrip you can even book individual stopovers if you wish. Costs however also more.

We flew there and returned with a private car transport. The advantage of private transport is that you are absolutely flexible in terms of time and also see the beautiful mountain landscape of the eastern side of the Andes.

Book Recommendations for the Amazon of Ecuador

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Have you ever been to the Amazon Basin of Ecuador? How did you like it? Do you have any questions about my article? If yes, then write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love wildlife as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about the King Penguins of Tierra del Fuego or Diving with Sea Lions near La Paz, Mexico.

Der Beitrag Amazonas von Ecuador: Reisebericht und Tipps rund um den Rio Napo erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links.

Here is a first overview of what you can do on your own on the Galapagos Island San Cristóbal:

#1 Puerto Baquerizo Moreno - Walk along the Malecón
#2 Snorkeling with sea lions at Playa Mann beach
#3 Interpretation Center and Tijeras Hill (Frigatebird Hill)
#4 La Loberia beach - nursery of the sea lions
#5 El Junco Lagoon
#6 Galapaguera de Cerro Colorado
#7 Puerto Chino Beach

#1 Puerto Baquerizo Moreno - Walk along the Malecón

The port city of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno is the capital and seat of the government of the province of Galapagos. With about 5,400 inhabitants, it is the second largest city in the archipelago after Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz. It is also home to the city's airport, which receives daily flights from the mainland.

The city was founded in the middle of the 19th century by the colonist General Villamil. The island was named after Alfredo Baquerizo Moreno. He was the first Ecuadorian president to visit the Galapagos Islands in 1916.

It is only a few minutes from the airport by cab to the town center (cost: $5). The heart of the city is the Malecón Charles Darwin. The Malecón is one of the city's two main streets and runs along the waterfront. This is where the tour boats and ferries to Santa Cruz leave. In addition, most of the souvenir stores, restaurants, and tour operators selling ferry tickets and diving and snorkeling excursions are located here. The offer here leaves nothing to be desired.

But a walk along the Malecón is worthwhile mainly because of the beaches and the rocks. Because here sea lions, iguanas, crabs, pelicans as well as other sea birds cavort. It is fascinating to see how closely animals and people live together here. For example, it is quite normal for sea lions to make themselves comfortable on a bench or to mingle with the bathers.

Galapagos Island San Cristóbal in numbers:

Area: 557 square kilometers
Maximum altitude: 730 meters
Population: about 6000

#2 Snorkeling with sea lions at Playa Mann beach

At the edge of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, not far from the Interpretation Center, is Playa Mann beach. Here people and sea lions mingle with each other. Whereby the sea lions have clearly won the fight for the benches in the shade. Close encounters with sea lions are nothing unusual. Some of them crawl only a few centimeters next to bathers lying on the beach or look directly into the camera in the water.

For the small or big hunger there is a restaurant as well as a coffee bar with cake. There are also changing rooms and toilets.

Next to the beach, a short wooden path starts to the lighthouse.

Tip: All city beaches are perfect for watching the sunset, as they all face west.

#3 Interpretation Center and Tijeras Hill (Frigatebird Hill)

The Galapagos National Park Interpretation Center is located at the north end of town. Since 1998, it has presented the history of the Galapagos Islands and described the different ecosystems to interested visitors.

From the center also starts a worthwhile trail with several highlights:

• Carola Beach with sea lions
• Darwin statue at the viewpoint
• Snorkeling site
• Viewpoint Tijeras Hill (Frigatebird Hill)

From Frigatebird Hill you have a beautiful view of the turquoise Tijeras Bay with the entrance to the snorkel spot. From here you can also observe flying frigatebirds very well. That's where the name comes from. The Spanish word Tijeras means "scissors". And the frigate birds often have their tail feathers spread so that they look like half-opened scissors.

Behind the viewpoint, Tijeras Hill begins a narrow, about 2 kilometers long path to Playa Baquerizo. If you want to walk this path, you should plan about 45 minutes per direction. Unfortunately, we didn't have time for the hike, so I can't say if it's worth it.

Opening hours: daily from 7:00 to 12:00 and 13:30 to 17:00.
The entrance is free.

#4 La Loberia beach - nursery of the sea lions

The coral sand beach La Loberia is located a bit away from the city and is best reached by cab. Due to its remoteness and vastness, it is less visited. Sea lions, iguanas, and crabs are present here in large numbers. In addition, it seems to be a particularly popular nursery for seals (as the name of the beach suggests). Because at the eastern edge of the beach, several baby sea lions were lounging between the stones. The beach is also very good for snorkeling.

Remember: keep your distance and don't touch the sea lions! Especially the babies. Because as soon as one smells of humans, its mother may reject it.

The best way to reach the following three places is by cab. We rented a cab for 60 dollars for four hours and went to the freshwater lagoon El Junco, to the Galapaguera as well as to Playa Chino.

#5 El Junco Lagoon

El Junco Lagoon, fed by rainwater, is a caldera of an extinct volcano. It is located in the highlands of San Cristóbal at an altitude of 700 meters. The climate and vegetation are completely different up here than on the coast: it is cooler, humid and misty. The plants are green and lush and heavily overgrown with brown lichen. We encountered several finches on the steep uphill path to the crater rim. They were not very shy, often we did not disturb them at all.

From the crater, you should have a great view of most of the island. Unfortunately, it was totally foggy when we were there. The round way, which leads at once around the approximately 300 meters broad lake, we did not run therefore at all.

Are you looking for a place to stay in Puerto Baquerizo Moreno? I can highly recommend the Royal Galapagos Inn. It is simple, centrally located, quiet, and has a super delicious breakfast. The host is very friendly and helpful.

#6 Galapaguera de Cerro Colorado

The turtle hatchery on San Cristóbal is my absolute favorite when it comes to watching giant tortoises. A paved loop trail leads through a naturalized 12-acre enclosure. This is where the turtle's parents live. The young turtles are housed separately according to their age in smaller enclosures. Here they grow up safe from predators until they are released in the north of the island at "Los Galápagos" at the age of five to six years. A small exhibition informs about the turtle population on San Cristóbal and the reintroduction project.

The entrance is free.

Read more about the turtles of the Galapagos and where you can see them in my separate article on my other website.

#7 Puerto Chino Beach

Have you ever seen a green beach? No? Neither had I. Until I visited Puerto Chino. The beach is about 24.5 kilometers away from Puerto Baquerizo Moreno and invites you to stay. The sand is quite fine and the sandy bay is perfect for swimming. For snorkeling, however, the sandy bottom is less interesting. But the ubiquitous sea lions can make every snorkeling tour on Galapagos a unique experience.

At the end of the bay, there is a small viewpoint that you can climb. It is worth it. You have a great view over the beach and you can see some animals from up here. I could see a swimming sea turtle from the rock, which I surely would not have discovered from the beach.

Book Recommendations for Galapagos

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Have you ever been to the Galapagos Island San Cristóbal? How did you like it? Do you have any questions about my article? If yes, then write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love wildlife as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about the King Penguins of Tierra del Fuego or Diving with Sea Lions near La Paz, Mexico.

Der Beitrag Was tun auf der Galapagos-Insel San Cristóbal? erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links.

Stratovolcano Illiniza Norte and Illiniza Sur

Illiniza is a no longer active stratovolcano in Ecuador. It is located about 60 km southwest of Quito in the Western Cordillera of the Andes. Of its two peaks, the southern one, Iliniza Sur, is 5245 meters high and covered by a glacier. The northern peak, Illiniza Norte, at 5126 meters high, is a pure rocky peak. Both peaks are separated by a saddle about one kilometer long.

The Illiniza volcanoes are located in the middle of the Reserva Ecológica Los Ilinizas. This ecological reserve is 1342.33 km² in size and was established in 1996. In addition to the Illinizas, it also includes El Corazón volcano and Quilotoa crater lake. To access the Ilinizas Ecological Reserve, one must register at the office at the park entrance.

Ascent of Illiniza Norte

Illiniza Norte is considered one of the best acclimatization mountains in Ecuador. It is often climbed in preparation for the higher peaks such as Cotopaxi, Chimborazo or Cayambe. Moreover, the route is remarkably beautiful. Illiniza Norte is technically relatively easy, since there is no glacier. The rock climbing ranges up to difficulty level 2 or I/PD on the normal route. This means mostly easy walking terrain (scree, easy boulder ridge), but increased surefootedness is necessary. The climbing sections are clear and problem-free. Combined with cold, wind and altitude, however, it is already a good reason for helmet, climbing harness and rope. Crampons and ice axe are usually not necessary. However, it depends on the weather conditions and the snow or icing.

Important!
If you have little own experience on mountains, go with a certified guide! The route to the summit is difficult to find in the last 200-300 meters of altitude. Again and again people who have lost their way have to be rescued from the mountain. Add to that the altitude and rapid weather changes. Train for the climb and make sure you have enough altitude acclimation for you.

By the way, Illiniza Sur is technically much more difficult than Norte and can only be climbed with glacier equipment.

The ascent of the Iliniza Norte was supposed to be a preparation for our Cotopaxi ascent. But it turned out differently: a kidney stone at my partne confused the planning of our acclimatization tours a little bit. We climbed the Illiniza only after our Cotopaxi attempt. There the flexibility of our tour provider Gulliver helped us a lot!

The Climb of Illiniza Norte at a Glance

• Total distance: 14 km
• Height difference: 1.176 m
• Time: 2 days with overnight stay in the mountain hut. Some climbers also do the tour in one day.
• Difficulty: medium; in rock climbing the normal route goes up to difficulty level 2 ( I/PD)
• Maximum altitude: 5.126 m
• Best season: June to September and November to February

The Sections of the Route

• La Virgen parking lot (3,950 m) to Nuevos Horizontes mountain hut ( 4,750 m): 3-4 hours
• Mountain hut Nuevos Horizontes ( 4.750 m) to summit Illiniza Norte (5.126 m): 3-4 hours
• Descent from 5.126 m to 3.950 m: 2-3 hours

Acclimatization to the Altitude

It is recommended to spend at least two days at around 3,000 m for acclimatization. Personally, that would not be enough for me. I recommend you to sleep at least four days at this altitude and to do two other summit hikes before, for example on Quito's "local mountain" Pichincha (4.776 m), Pasochoa (4.200 m) or Corazón (4.790 m).

From the Parking Lot "La Virgen" to the Mountain Hut Nuevos Horizontes

The trailhead to Illiniza is at the "virgin" at the parking lot "La Virgen" at about 3,950 meters above sea level. Here the locals worship the mountain and the earth gods. We load our backpack on the horse and then grab only our daypacks. The sleeping bags, additional warm clothes and everything we need on the summit day brings the rider with his horse to the mountain hut. Super practical. And I willingly pay the additional 50 dollars for the round trip transport.

There are two trails at the beginning: a wider one that the rider takes and a narrower one that we walk. The latter is heavily washed out from the rain. It goes steadily uphill and with some visibility we have a nice view of the neighboring Corazón and the two peaks of Illiniza. At first, the mountain is still covered with the panamo vegetation usual for these heights. But the higher it goes, the more barren the landscape becomes. Soon there are only stones, rocks and boulders around us. The path becomes steeper again, until it then turns largely flat on the last few meters before the mountain hut at an altitude of about 4,750 meters.

Mountain Hut Nuevos Horizontes

The hut is located in the middle of the saddle between the two peaks Illiniza Norte and Illiniza Sur. The saddle is more or less flat and there is a mountain lake. The hut can accommodate about 12 people. Next to the hut there is also space for tents. Next to the sleeping room there is a small kitchen with a dining table. Everything is very simple, but perfectly adequate. There is even electricity to charge cell phones. Drinking water is boiled. Outside there are two flush toilets. And the leftovers are taken care of by a family of Andean foxes that live near the hut.

After I have rested for a while and eaten something I go in search of the foxes. Before I had already seen one out of the kitchen window. But I had no luck. I walked the path towards the summit for a while and was looking forward to the next day.

Summit Day

The First Meters

After a few hours of sleep, our alarm clock rang at 4 am. I was already awake. Around 2 o'clock another group has already left for Illiniza Sur. This does not go unnoticed despite earplugs. There is no kitchen door. And the group unfortunately did not try to be quiet in any way. Good thing there is coffee here.

After an incredibly sumptuous breakfast for this time of day, we set off. The backpack with everything we don't need anymore is ready to be picked up by the rider. We carry our climbing harness, helmet, headlamp and the daypack with some provisions and 1.5 liters of water.

When we leave the hut, it does not go unobserved. Two eyes follow us in the dark. In the light of my forehead lame they shine orange. They belong to one of the Andean foxes, which has its night camp on a large stone next to the hut. I am happy about the encounter and continue to keep a lookout.

It is shortly after 5 o'clock, the route is still reasonably flat. Only when it is already slightly dusk, it becomes steeper and rockier. It is always nice to watch the world waking up. At first you can only see shadows and outlines. Then slowly colors come into play. First in the sky and then also in the surroundings. The dawn from up here is just fantastic. It is a mostly clear day and we can look up to the Cotopaxi and later also to the Chimborazo.

The last few Meters

The last section on the mountain is steep and rocky. Here climbing is the order of the day. We use the rope and deposit our trekking poles on a rock. In this section we have to use our hands for climbing. It goes further and further up and it gets windier and windier. The summit is marked by a small metal summit cross. There is not much space up here and it goes steeply down the sides. I enjoy the view and the small rest. Before it goes down again is still time for a summit photo. Why does one always look so incredibly beat up on these pictures?

Who goes up must also go down again - the Descent

We have to hurry, because it looks like rain. Gray clouds are gathering on the horizon and mountains are getting covered by clouds. We climb down the rocks amazingly fast, in some places we continue with rappelling. Finally, after a while, we reach the mountain flank, which consists of loose scree and gravel. We almost slide down and have vegetation around us again within a very short time. I am always amazed at how strenuously and slowly one struggles up the mountain and then how quickly one is back down again.

Conclusion: Is the Ascent of Illiniza Norte worth it?

A clear yes! I would do this mountain tour again at any time. Scenically, the area and the view of the surrounding mountains are a real highlight. And also the climbing over the rocks was just great.

For acclimatization and in preparation for a higher mountain, this tour is ideally suited. But also as a single peak of an Ecuador trip I can highly recommend the Illiniza Norte.

What do I need for the tour?

For the ascent you should definitely have a certified guide. You will also need a harness, trekking poles, helmet and headlamp. Your guide will also have a rope and other small items to set up a belay if necessary. We did not need crampons or ice axe, because there was only little snow or ice and we could simply kick small steps into it with our boots. We walked with normal trekking boots, which was sufficient in our case and was also warm enough. The temperatures were between -2 and 5 degrees Celsius. In other weather, of course, it can be different.

Trekking boots, hiking poles, gloves and everything else you might need for your climb up Illiniza Norte in Ecuador can be found at Bergzeit.

Book Recommendations for Ecuador

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Have you ever been to Ecuador, maybe even to the Illiniza Norte volcano? How did you like it? Do you have any questions about my article? If yes, please write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love South America as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about a Kayak Trip in Patagonia or about the a trip to the Tierra del Fuego National Park in Argentina.

Der Beitrag Besteigung des Vulkans Illiniza Norte in Ecuador erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Galapagos. West of Puerto Villamil, in the south of Isla Isabela, a dirt road of about six kilometers leads to the historic site of "Muro de las Lagrimas". The "Wall of Tears" is a reminder of Isla Isabela's history as a former penal colony. The way there leads through the "Humedales" – the wetlands – with several worthwhile stops, such as beaches, mangroves and viewpoints. Maybe the one or other giant tortoise will cross your path.

Find out what there is to discover on the way to Muro de Las Lagrimas on Isabela and why you should definitely go by bike. Moreover, you will find many practical tips for your bike tour on your own.

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links.

At a Glance

• Length: about 6 kilometers (one way)
• Duration: at least 5 hours (with bike)
• Cost: about $10 for a rental bike for 5 hours
• Highlights: Muro de las Lagrimas, viewpoints, tortoises, mangroves, iguanas, birds, beaches.
• Take along: Drinking water, provisions, sunscreen, swimwear.

The Way to Los Humedales and to the Muro de las Lagrimas

To get to the gravel road to the Muro de las Lagrimas, follow the road that runs parallel to the beach to the west. Keep left at the turnoff and you will reach an area called Los Humedales. Here, a large sign with the inscription "Complejo de Humedales y Muro de las Lágrimas" (Wetlands Complex & the Wall of Tears) informs you about the route. You can take a picture of the map to keep track of the route. The path is easy to follow and each stop worth seeing is signposted.

At first, the path is rather flat, but some sections with loose sand force you to push your bike. Later, the path is better to cycle, but then it's also constantly slightly uphill.

Tip: Start your tour to the Muro de Las Lagrimas as early as possible and cycle to the end of the route without stopping. It can get very hot on the way. On the way back you will have several stops where you can even swim.

Memorial Place "Muro de Las Lagrimas

Isla Isabela was not always the paradise we see today. In the years 1949 to 1959 there was a penal camp here. The inmates of the camp were forced to build a 25 meter high wall made of lava stones. I hardly dare to imagine the conditions under which they did this. Touch the lava stones, how sharp-edged they are!

A section of the wall, about 100 meters long, is preserved to this day and commemorates the inmates of the penal colony who died here. The wall is said to have received its name from the locals who could hear the crying of the convicts.

Behind the wall, a shady picnic area invites you to spend some contemplative time. Take some time here and let this place of Isla Isabela's darker history sink in.

Viewpoint at the old Radar Station and Mirador Cerro Orchilla

Next to the Muro de Las Lagrimas begins the climb to a lookout point. Here the Americans once operated a radar station. Today only the foundation can be seen and a panel informs about the place.

From the top you have a fantastic view over the Humedales and the beach to Puerto Villamil. The path is lined with Galápagos prickly pear cactus and bare trees with Spanish moss hanging from their branches. These give the path something mystical and are just beautiful to look at.

Another viewpoint that is not quite as high is the Mirador Cerro Orchilla. It is located about 900 meters before the Muro de las Lagrimas. We didn't climb it for time reasons, because we still had to catch our boat to Santa Cruz after noon.

You are still looking for an accommodation in Puerto Villamil? I can highly recommend Hospedaje Mother Fanny*. It is simple, centrally located, quiet and very inexpensive.

Ruta de las Tortugas

With a little luck you will see giant tortoises on the way to Muro de las Lagrimas. We saw a total of nine pretty big animals on the way there and back. Sometimes closer to the path, sometimes more hidden. One tortoise was even right at a picnic spot.

Many of the tortoises here are from a reintroduction projectto stabilize the population on Isabella. You can even visit the breeding center. It is only a few minutes walk from the center of Puerto Villamil.

More about giant tortoises:

Tortoises in Galapagos - Where is the best place to see them?

The Giants of Galapagos – Visit to the Tortoises of San Christóbal

Tip: There is no water on the way. Take at least 1.5 liters per person. Don't forget sunscreen and head cover.

El Estero - picturesque Bay with Mangroves

At "El Estero" a longer stopover is worthwhile. From the bicycle parking lot a small path leads through a tunnel of mangrove trees. It ends at a picturesque little bay, which is surrounded by mangroves. Along the path you will see all four types of mangroves found in Galapagos. Mangroves play an extremely important role in Galapagos, as they are the nursery for many marine animals as well as nesting sites for many birds. The sand in the bay is super fine, the water turquoise and pleasantly warm. A great shady spot for a cool down or a picnic.

A bit before the mangrove tunnel, another path branches off towards the sea. At low tide you will come to a beautiful coastal section of lava rocks, sand and mangroves. Also the iguanas seem to like this place. Next to it you can see crabs and various seabirds.

Sandals, outdoor towels, sun hats and everything else you might need for your bike tour to Muro de las Lagrimas on Isla Isabela can be found at Bergzeit.

Lava Tunnel "Tunel de Estero"

Only a few meters from the bicycle parking lot, you will come to a small lava tunnel. While hot lava was flowing here towards the sea, the surface of the lava flow cooled down and became hard. The hot lava inside continued to flow and a tunnel was formed. At the bottom there is some water, depending on the tide. On the ceiling you can see how the cooling lava has formed small drop-shaped stalactites.

Playa del Amor (Love Beach)

Really a beach to fall in love with. The sand is not as fine as in front of Puerto Villamil, but the beach is especially beautiful. The black lava rocks form a protected bay, mangroves grow in the background and cacti and succulents grow on the wide golden sandy area. But it is better not to walk over it, because the area is also the nesting area of the iguanas. By the way, these are to be seen here quite numerously on the rocks, among them many of the big, colorful males.

Humedales – Wetlands and Bird Paradise

On the inland side of the bike path there are other worthwhile stops, such as the Pozas Verde or the viewpoint. From here you have a good view of the ponds of the Humedales and with a little luck you can observe different birds. The most prominent are the pink flamingos. But also smaller birds, like the curlew, the plover or various ducks can be observed here.

TIP: A trip to the Humedales is especially beautiful if you also see birds. It is best to take binoculars with you, such as the handy and even waterproof Zeiss Terra ED 8×42**.

Why by Bike?

In Puerto Villamil you can rent a bike at almost every corner. Mostly they are mountain bikes. We paid 10 US dollars for five hours. Make sure that the brakes work well, because on the way back it goes downhill.

I recommend renting the bike for at least five hours. That sounds a lot at first, but there is also a lot to see on the route. I would have loved to stay longer

Why you should definitely go by bike? The route is quite long, about twelve kilometers round trip, and can be a bit monotonous between stops. You'll get from one stop to the next much faster by bike. And on the way back, when it's approaching the hot noon time, you can enjoy the downhill wind.

Book Recommendations for Galapagos

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Have you ever been to the Galapagos Island Isabela, maybe even to the Muro de las Lagrimas? How did you like it? Do you have any questions about my article? If yes, then write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love wildlife as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about the King Penguins of Tierra del Fuego or Diving with Sea Lions near La Paz, Mexico.

Der Beitrag Muro de las Lagrimas – Guide für eine Radtour auf Isla Isabela erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Galapagos, Ecuador. Galapagos giant tortoises (Chelonoidis) are the largest land tortoises in the world. They are fascinating to look at in nature. You are flying to the Galapagos Islands and want to see the giant tortoises? You are not sure where you have the best chance to observe them and where to get the best photos? In the following article I have compiled some practical tips for you and you will also learn a lot of interesting facts about the tortoises of Galapagos.

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links.

Tortoises on the Galapagos Island San Cristóbal

On San Cristóbal you have two possibilities to see tortoises: At the tortoise breeding station Galapaguera de Cerro Colorado and in the wild at "Los Galapagos" in the north of the island.

Galapaguera de Cerro Colorado

The tortoise breeding station on San Cristóbal is my absolute favorite when it comes to watching giant tortoises in Galapagos. A paved loop trail leads through a naturalized 12-acre enclosure. This is where the tortoise parents live. Once a year they lay eggs, which are then collected by the rangers and subsequently hatched in the incubator. The young tortoises are housed separately according to their age in smaller enclosures. Here they grow up safe from predators until they are released in the north of the island at "Los Galápagos" at the age of five to six years.

The entrance is free. You can walk the circuit alone or, if you wish, a guide will accompany you. There are two watering holes along the way. Here you will be able to observe and photograph several tortoises very close.

Advantage: You have all the time in the world, you can change your perspectives. A distance of two meters to the tortoises is to be kept.

An exhibition also informs about the tortoises on Galapagos, especially about the population on San Cristóbal and the reintroduction project.

Here you can find more information about the tortoises of the Galapaguera on San Cristóbal.

How to get there?

The best way is by cab. We rented a cab for $60 for four hours and went to Galapaguera, Playa Chino and the freshwater lagoon El Junco. If you just want to visit the Galapaguera, you can take a cab there and back for around $35.

Caution: Do not touch the bark, leaves or fruit of the poison apple tree. This is because its milky resin is poisonous and can cause skin irritation.

Los Galapagos Wildlife Reserve

In the north of San Cristóbal live giant tortoises in the wild. You can reach the area by taking a boat to the nearby bay and then walking on a trail for about two hours to the turtle area. For the way back you should also plan enough time.

The beach is also a nesting site for sea turtles. From January to May you can find the tracks of the females that lay their eggs in the sand dunes.

How to get there?

Day trips to Los Galapagos are offered in the city. Usually the tours include Punta Pitt, Turtle Bay and Cerro Brujo beach.

Giant tortoises can survive up to 1 year without food in times of severe drought. However, this ability became the tortoises' fate: sailors used the animals as a portable food source, providing them with fresh meat on long sea voyages.

Tortoises on the Galapagos Island Isla Isabela

Also on Isabela there is the possibility to see tortoises in a nursery or in the wild on the Camino de Las Tortugas.

Centro de Crianza de Tortugas

The circuit through the breeding stations is very manageable and may only be walked together with a guide (per person 10 dollars). In return there is a lot of information and at the end a worthwhile exhibition, which also shows the different development phases of the baby turtles.

You will definitely see tortoises here, even different species. But there are hardly any photo opportunities. Mostly you look down from the path into the enclosures of the tortoises. A ground level perspective to photograph the tortoises at eye level is not possible.

But a visit is definitely worthwhile and also supports the work of the breeding station. And the results are certainly something to be proud of: Forty-three giant tortoises raised here could be released into their new habitat near the Sierra Negra volcano in January 2022.

How to get there?

The best way is on foot.

The breeding station is located about 1.6 km from the central square of Puerto Villamil at the end of a wooden boardwalk through a wetland. Plan a little more time for the very worthwhile walk there, as there are many iguanas and various birds to see along the way.

The giant tortoises are not only the most famous animals of the Galapagos Islands. They also gave their name to the islands. Because the tortoise shell reminds of a Spanish riding saddle, the so-called "Galápago".

Camino de Las Tortugas

West of Puerto Villamil a path leads to the "Muro de Las Lagrimas". The back part of the path is also called "Camino de Las Tortugas". And not without reason: Tortoises live here and can often be seen from the path. We encountered nine animals on the way there and back. Sometimes further away, sometimes closer to the path. One tortoise even made itself comfortable at one of the picnic spots.

Keep your distance and do not touch.

How to get there?

The best way is by bike. You can rent one at almost every corner in Puerto Villamil (five hours for 10 dollars).

Tip: Take enough to drink, some snacks and swimwear.

There are five different species of tortoises on Isabela, separated by the lava flows of the volcanoes.

Trekking shoes, hiking poles, sun hats and everything else you might need for your trip on the Camino de Tortugas can be found at Bergzeit.

Tortoises on the Galapagos Island Santa Cruz

As on the other two islands, you can visit a breeding station or see the tortoises in the wild.

Centro de Crianza Fausto Llerena

About 1.7 kilometers east of the port is the Centro de Crianza Fausto Llerena breeding station. Here, various species of turtles are bred and then released into the wild on their home islands. The most prominent representative of the breeding station was Lonesome George. He was the last of his species. An intensive search for a breeding partner on his native island of Pinta was unfortunately unsuccessful. Lonesome George died at an age of about 100 years on June 24, 2012. He is now preserved as a dried memorial in a darkened, heavily air-conditioned room to commemorate the sad fate of his and many other wildlife species.

After the visit to Lonesome George the way continues to the breeding enclosures where you can see different species. But like in the center on Isabela it is very difficult if not impossible to get nice tortoise photos.

The tortoises feed on grasses, herbs, creepers, bushes, berries, lichens and cacti. According to the available food, the animals have developed differently shaped shells in the course of evolution. Tortoises, which feed mainly on ground vegetation, have developed a dome-shaped shell. They live mainly on the larger islands with lush vegetation in rain-wet, higher regions. In contrast, species from the flatter, drier, and more sparsely vegetated islands feed more on shrubs and cacti. They have a saddle-shaped carapace. This allows them to stretch their necks higher and to reach food at a greater height.

El Chato Tortoise Reserve and Rancho Primicias

El Chato Tortoise Reserve is located in the highlands of Santa Cruz near Santa Rosa. Since the wildlife reserve is part of the national park, you must have a guide to visit.

The neighboring Rancho Primicias, on the other hand, is a private ranch that you can visit without a guide. Giant tortoises live here as well.

Unfortunately, we didn't have time to visit one of the reserves. But already during the bus ride to the airport I saw four huge animals out of the bus window.

How to get there?

A cab costs about 10 to 15 euros. Many also load their bike on the cab and then bike the way back. It's about 22 kilometers, but it's mostly downhill. There is a bike path on the main road.

Tip: Take something warmer to wear and definitely rain gear. The climate in the highlands is cool and humid, quite different from the coast.

Conclusion

The tortoise conservation and the breeding program in the Galapagos Islands has been a great success. Today, more than 20,000 tortoises live on the islands again. In 1959, when the islands were declared a national park, there were only about 5,000 animals.

Book Recommendations for Galapagos

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Have you ever been to the Galapagos Islands? How did you like it? Do you have any questions about my article? If yes, then write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love wildlife as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about the King Penguins of Tierra del Fuego or Diving with Sea Lions near La Paz, Mexico.

Der Beitrag Schildkröten auf Galapagos – Wo sieht man sie am besten? erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Galapagos, Isla Isabela, Ecuador. Los Tuneles is considered one of the highlights of Galapagos Island Isabela. At almost every corner in Puerto Villamil you can book snorkeling tours to Los Tuneles and the neighboring Cabo Rosa. Even in the program of the safari ships a stop at Los Tuneles is a fixed component. What is it? Is the place really that beautiful or just over-advertised and overcrowded? Read on and learn more about this bizarre lava landscape and its inhabitants.

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links.

Boat ride through the surreal Lava Landscape Los Tuneles

After about 45 minutes of travel, our boat slows down. We are just before Los Tuneles. The water becomes shallower and shimmers turquoise. It is crystal clear. Bizarrely shaped lava formations emerge from the water to the right and left. Some are completely bare, others are overgrown with candelabra cacti. Our captain skillfully steers the boat through the labyrinth. These unusual channels were formed from lava tunnels that collapsed in on themselves. It soon becomes clear why this place is called "Los Tuneles". After a while, we go alongside another excursion boat and go ashore.

Tip: The boat ride to Los Tuneles takes about 45 minutes. You'll have the best view if you sit on the starboard side.

Hiking over the Lava Islands of Los Tuneles

As expected, we are not the only excursion boat landing here. But the visitor groups spread out so that we hardly notice anything of the other groups.

The lava flows have produced wild formations at Los Tuneles. Former lava tunnels have collapsed and parts of them remained as natural bridges. They connect the small islets, which are very rugged and have many small caves. The lava is partly covered with lichen, in some places, it is covered with white bird droppings. There are the nests of the blue-footed boobies. In one nest there is even a young bird hidden. It can't fly yet and doesn't have blue feet. They turn blue only after about a year.

Why does the blue-footed booby have blue feet?

The blue feet of the boobies are related to their diet. It is caused by pigments called carotenoids. These are in the fish that the boobies eat. At courtship time, the male struts around in front of the females, conspicuously displaying his feet. The bluer the feet, the more successful the males are with females. This is because the intense color indicates well-fed and healthy mates.

Snorkeling at Cabo Rosa - Sea Turtles, Seahorses, and Sharks

We continue to Cabo Rosa for snorkeling. The water is quite fresh now in January with about 22 degrees. I was glad that we were equipped with shorties by the Isabela Divecenter.

Right at the beginning of our snorkeling tour, a sea turtle welcomes us. With slow flipper strokes, it passes us by. Most of the snorkelers in my group, on the other hand, move less elegantly underwater and soon the water is murky from the swirling sediment. We continue, passing mangrove roots and rocks. Finally, it's time to dive down and I can take a look into a rock cave where some whitetip reef sharks are taking their siesta. During the day they like to rest on the bottom in caves, lava tunnels, or under natural bridges.

Besides the sea turtles, the seahorse, and the sharks, we were able to see much other fish as well as the red cliff crabs typical for Galapagos. By the way, the smaller, dark crabs are not another species, but the young of the red crabs.

Conclusion: Is a visit to Los Tuneles and Cabo Rosa in Galapagos worthwhile?

The landscape of Los Tuneles is uniquely beautiful, and the wildlife is varied and impressive. Therefore, I can recommend the tour to Los Tuneles to everyone who comes to the Galapagos Island Isabella. However, you can see the place underwater that here every day hordes of tourists plow up the water. The swirled-up suspended matter has settled on the vegetation and many a surface underwater is grazed or trodden flat.

What I unfortunately missed was an announcement from our guide about how we should behave underwater in a nature-friendly way. That one should not chase sea turtles and that one should not touch them does not seem to be self-evident.

To show proper respect to the place and the animals and plants living here, do not stand on the vegetation and do not touch anything. Please be careful not to stir up sediment with your fins. This is easily done by moving your fins with the so-called Frog Kick. This is very similar to the normal leg kick in normal swimming.

What is the difference between the snorkeling site Las Tintoteras, right in front of the harbor of Isla Isabela? At Los Tuneles you have the more beautiful scenery above and below the water and the water is also a bit warmer. However, at Las Tintoteras you can see the rare Galapagos penguins and you have a shorter approach. White tip reef sharks and sea turtles are present at both snorkeling sites. And both have an equal number of tour groups.

Book Recommendations for Galapagos

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Have you ever been to Galapagos, maybe even to Los Tuneles or Cabo Rosa? How did you like it? Do you have any questions about my article? If yes, then write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love wildlife as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about the King Penguins of Tierra del Fuego or Diving with Sea Lions near La Paz, Mexico.

Der Beitrag Los Tuneles und Cabo Rosa: Schnorcheln an den Lavatunneln von Galapagos erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Galapagos, Ecuador. The animal landmarks of the Galapagos National Park are the giant tortoise and the hammerhead shark. But the scenic landmark of Galapagos is the volcanic island of Bartolome with its lunar landscape and the enchanting panoramic view of Sullivan Bay. A visit to this island should not be missed on any Galapagos trip. Read on to find out why you shouldn't miss Bartolome and what makes snorkeling here so special.

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links.

Volcanic Isla Bartolome - a Surreal Lunar Landscape

Isla Bartolome is an extinct volcano and was formed 1.5 to 2 million years ago. This makes Bartolome one of the youngest islands of the Galapagos archipelago. Its volcanic origin is hard to miss: A surreal, barren lunar landscape of black, red, orange and greenish lava formations spreads over an area of 1.2 square kilometers.

The volcanic rock is hardly weathered or overgrown. Contrast this with the bright blue sea, a golden sandy beach and a small green mangrove forest in Sullivan Bay. The icing on the cake of the scenery is the bizarre rock needle Pinnacle Rock. Today, Pinnacle Rock is a natural monument. But during the Second World War, the rock needle was the target for US Air Force exercises.

Isla Bartolome is one of the most beautiful landscapes of the archipelago and also offers interesting insights into the evolution of the islands.

The lava flows, rocks and sandy areas have long cooled down but are still extremely hostile to life. The vegetation on this dry island is accordingly sparse. Only some pioneer plants like the endemic Tiquilia nesiotica, the lava cactus and Scalesia bushes grow here. Now and then you can see a lava lizard scurrying over the stones.

The island was named after Sir Bartholomew James Sulivan of the British Navy. He sailed with Charles Darwin on HMS Beagle in 1835 as a lieutenant and chief surveyor.

Bartolome, like most of the islands in the Galapagos archipelago, is uninhabited. It rises to 114 meters above sea level. At the highest point of the island there is a small lighthouse. From up here you have a magnificent panoramic view to the neighboring island of Santiago and over the beach and turquoise sea of Sullivan Bay.

Walk to the Bartolome Viewpoint

Our boat anchored in front of Pinnacle Rock. With the Zodiac we first made a small round to greet the penguins of Bartolome. Afterwards we landed at a narrow concrete dock and could enter the island on dry feet. From here a wooden path leads through the volcanic landscape all the way up to the small lighthouse. That is after all 372 steps. On the way there were always smaller viewing platforms where we stopped and our guide told us interesting facts about the island.

Tip: The climb takes about 45 minutes and is easy to do in sandals. So you don't need to bring sturdy shoes, as you'll be walking on the wooden path the whole time.

Why you should not miss Bartolome Island?

Bartolome is a landmark of the Galapagos Islands and one of the most popular photo motifs of the archipelago. And not without reason. The view of the bay and Pinnacle Rock is magnificent. On a clear day, you should even be able to see up to ten other islands.

But Bartolome also has a lot to offer underwater. Upwelling deep water provides abundant nutrients, making the area particularly interesting for fish. And the small fish in turn attract larger fish, sharks, sea lions, penguins and seabirds.

What makes snorkeling here especially rewarding? With a little luck you can see Galapagos penguins underwater.

Snorkeling with Galapagos Penguins

A special highlight of our day trip was snorkeling with Galapagos penguins. There is a small colony living at Pinnacle Rock and also at the surrounding islands. We went snorkeling at one of the neighboring islands, Sombrero Chino. The penguins hunt here at the rocks for fish and let us watch them. For a longer time I was all alone with the penguins, the other snorkelers of my group were just at another place. The animals swam around me, sometimes came directly to me and looked at me.

Besides the penguins, the schools of colorful fish and the sea turtle were so fascinating that I didn't even notice how cold the water was. Others in my group even encountered a whitetip reef shark.

Tip: The water at Bartolome is cold. Take at least a shorty for snorkeling.

By the way, green sea turtles come to the golden sandy beach of Bartolome from January to March to lay their eggs. Maybe you will be lucky and see some.

How can one visit Bartolome Island?

Most cruise ships and liveaboards call at Bartolome Island. But also the tour operators on Santa Cruz have day trips to Bartholome in their program. The island, is one of the most visited places in Galápagos. Mostly the excursions are combined with snorkeling at Bartholomé or one of the smaller surrounding islands.

The boat trip to Bartolome takes about two hours. In addition, there is a bus ride of about 45 minutes from Puerto Ayora to the Itabaca Channel, where the boats start. The journey sounds awfully long, but there is a lot to see on the way. It is guaranteed not to be boring. First, the highlands of Santa Cruz are well worth seeing. The vegetation is dense and green, the trees overgrown with lichen and you can even spot giant turtles from the bus. Once you are on the boat, make sure you get a seat with a good view. With a little luck you will see jumping mantas or mobulas, dolphins and of course seabirds. Especially when you pass the island of Daphne you have a good chance to see blue footed boobies and nazca boobies.

You can find trekking sandals, waterproof bags, sun hats and everything else you might need for your trip to Bartolome at Bergzeit.

Costs

The tour is one of the more expensive day tours on Santa Cruz, but also an absolutely unforgettable experience. We went with Book-ec and paid over $500 for two people. The provider's prices range from $230 to $392 per person, depending on the yacht and availability. Snacks, lunch, coffee and cake were included. The boat was large and very comfortable and our guide extremely engaging. Snorkeling equipment was also included. Wetsuits, however, cost extra. You should definitely have those, at least a shorty. The water was only about 17 degrees in January. It is best to check in advance with your tour operator if wetsuits are available. If necessary, you have to rent a suit in one of the many stores in Puerto Ayora (about 5 euros per day).

Conclusion. Is it worth it?

Bartolome is a very worthwhile excursion in the Galapagos Islands. The island inspires with one of the most beautiful landscapes of the archipelago and certainly the most beautiful panoramic view. And where can you go snorkeling with penguins if not on Bartolome?

Book Recommendations for Galapagos

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Have you ever been to Galapagos, maybe even snorkeling with the penguins at Bartolome? How did you like it? Do you have any questions about my article? If yes, then write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love wildlife as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about the King Penguins of Tierra del Fuego or Diving with Sea Lions near La Paz, Mexico.

Der Beitrag Galapagos Insel Bartolome – Mondlandschaft mit Pinguinen erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.