San Juan Islands, Washington State, USA. Paddling with Orcas! What a dreamlike imagination! In the Salish Sea, on the northwest coast of the USA this dream could come true. We put our luck to the test and went on a three-day paddling trip in the realm of the orcas. In the following article I will tell you about our experiences and share my most memorable impressions with you. Furthermore, you will get many practical tips for your Kayak Tour at the Orcas of the San Juan Islands.

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What to expect in this Article

The San Juan Islands in the Salish Sea
Details of our Kayak Tour at the Orcas of the San Juan Islands
Highlights of our Kayak Tour Kayak Tours
Day by Day - the Route of our Kayak Tour at the Orcas of San Juan Island San Juan Island
How to get to the San Juan Islands
Packing list for your Kayak Tour

The San Juan Islands in the Salish Sea

The San Juan Islands are a group of several hundred islands in the Salish Sea off the coast of Washington State. Most of them are uninhabited, some of them are very tiny. San Juan is also the name of one of the largest islands in the archipelago. The main town of San Juan is Friday Harbor. This is where the ferry from Anacortes arrives, where most of the whale watching trips start, and where we meet for our three-day kayak tour with San Juan Kayak Expeditions.

The San Juan Islands are shielded from the waves and storms of the open Pacific Ocean by elongated Vancouver Island to the northwest. On the land side, they are framed by the high mountains of the Olympic Mountains, the Cascade Range and the British Columbia Coast Range.

Due to the location of the islands in the rain shadow of the Olympic Mountains, dry, sunny weather is predominant here. This is also the reason why the San Juan Islands are often called the Banana Belt. Even though no bananas grow here at all. But due to the protected location and the rich wildlife, the San Juan Islands are best suited for a kayak tour of several days.

Details of our Kayak Tour at the Orcas of the San Juan Islands

Duration: Our tour lasted three days. One, two, four or five day tours are also available.
Travel period: May through September
Orcas: The best chances to see orcas during a kayak tour at the San Juan Islands are in July and August, because that's when Southern Resident orcas frequent the Salish Sea. Transient orcas, on the other hand, can be seen year-round.
Distances: 25 miles total (10 miles, 9 miles, 6 miles).
Difficulty: You should have some paddling experience and you should be able to paddle for extended periods of time. Longer crossings are required in two places.
Costs: three day trip for $679.00 per person (2021)

Highlights of our Kayak Tour

Orcas

The highlight of every kayak tour in the Salish Sea is without a doubt the sighting of orcas or other whales. But such encounters are not predictable and you need a lot of luck. Unfortunately, we did not see any orcas during our paddle tour. However, when I was out later with a whale watching boat, I was able to observe orcas right on the shores where we paddled along.

Do you want to know more about the orcas at the Sun Juan Islands? Then check out my article about the Southern Resident Orcas on my photo website.

Wildlife

The Salish Sea is famous for its orcas. But of course there are many other animals that make the region an Eldorado for wildlife viewing. During our paddle tour we could observe many harbor seals and bald eagles. In addition to various gulls, we also saw kingfishers, cormorants, Canada geese, ravens and a peregrine falcon. Also of particular interest were the imported bighorn sheep, sitka deer and prickly horned antelope on Spiden Island. More about this later.

There are also chances to see the following species: Dall's and harbor porpoises, humpback whales, minke whales, gray whales, elephant seals, Steller's and California sea lions, river otters, mink, raccoons, foxes, as well as ospreys and many other bird species.

Landscape

In addition to animal observations, there are many other impressive experiences that I will remember for a long time. First of all, there is the scenic beauty of the islands with their rugged coasts and secluded bays. The campsites are idyllic and the sunsets over the neighboring islands are a dream.

I just love it when I am so close to the water in a kayak. Then I feel especially connected to nature. When I can also make out the kelp forest and purple starfish below me, it's time for a little paddle break. At some places, however, it is also worthwhile to let your gaze wander into the distance. If the weather is clear, you can see the ice-covered peak of Mt. Baker (3286 m) from the kayak .

Night Paddling with Bioluminescence

The highlight of the day is hidden in the dark: night paddling with bioluminescence. No, actually this are two highlights: First, paddling at night (when do you ever do that?) and then bioluminescence. That was really something special. I'll write more about it later and you'll also learn which little critters are responsible for it.

Day by Day - the Route of our Kayak Tour at the Orcas of San Juan Island

The first Day of Paddling

Even though I've limited myself to the bare essentials, my luggage seems like way too much, as usual. With waterproof bags, dangling Nalgene bottles and a bundle of rain gear in my arms, I greet the other fellow paddlers. After loading all the luggage into the van, we head for Griffin Bay. Here our kayaks are waiting for us: four tandem kayaks and one for our guide Jury.

First we listen to Jury's detailed briefing. Among other things, we learn how to climb back into the boat after a capsize on the open water. I look out at the water suspiciously, wondering how quickly this might happen. Fortunately, the water is relatively calm, the sun is shining and it's warm. Wonderful paddling weather, who thinks about capsizing? What I don't know yet: the water will change and become a bit choppy on the longer crossings.

After everything is packed and life jackets and spray blankets are put on, we are ready to go. To warm up, we paddle a short distance to Turn Island and take a lunch break. Chopped vegetables, hummus, bars and salted nuts. Jury also shows us our route for today on the map. We will paddle about 10 miles to our camp on Jones Island. Much of the route will take us along the Shaw Island shoreline. Our next stop is Yellow Island. A trail runs once around the small island and we are glad to be able to move our legs a bit.

It is not far to our camp on Jones Island. After setting up the tents and having a delicious dinner, we take a short hike to the opposite side of the island. Here we end the evening with a sunset and a sip of wine.

We were not the only paddlers on the water. But I have to say: we had the most beautiful boats. Yellow, orange, green, blue, and neon yellow. Each tandem kayak was a different color, roomy, and very docile to paddle. We also received lightweight paddles from Werner (I have one of these for my kayak at home), life jackets, splash guards, seat cushions, bilge pump, waterproof bags, and a tent. On the way, large water canisters always provided enough drinking water and in the evening Jury spoiled us with delicious hot food. Except for a few granola bars or snacks for the road, we didn't have to worry about food. And even for me as a vegan was taken care of. Simply fantastic and sooo delicious.

Tip: Little treasures* that make paddler's life easier:Tip: Small treasures* that make life easier for paddlers:

The second Day of Paddling

The next morning we wait for the right start time. This depends on the tides. After all, we don't want to have to paddle against the current. So we have a very relaxed start into the day and first of all an extensive breakfast. After packing, we even have time to circle the west side of Jones Island on a narrow trail.

But after the relaxed start soon comes the challenge of the day: the crossing to Spieden Island. The crossing is about five kilometers over open water. But on the second day of the paddle tour we are almost professionals and master this challenge with flying colors.

Spieden Island was bought in 1997 by James Jannard, the founder and main shareholder of Oakley. It is located about a mile north of San Juan Island and separated from it by the Spieden Channel. The north side of the island is densely forested, while the south side is a barren open landscape. We paddle along the north side. In the tall trees we spot several bald eagles. They seem to love the island. On the other side of the island, which we won't see until the next day, live bighorn sheep, sitka deer and prickly horn antelope. How did these exotic animals get to the island? They were imported in the 1970s and 1980s for hunting. There was a hunting lodge, airstrip and hangar. But due to environmental concerns, as well as the risk that errant shots could injure other watermen, hunting operations were discontinued. The imported animals remained on the island, surviving and reproducing.

We paddle along the pristine north side of Spieden Island and then cross over to Cactus Island and Johns Island. We finally set up camp at the Kristiansen Campground on Stuart Island. After settling in and having a delicious vegetable curry, we launch our kayaks into the water again. Our destination is the . Turn Point LighthouseFrom here you can watch the sunset .

But the real highlight of the evening awaits in the dark of night: Night Paddling with Bioluminescence. The darker it is, the better the blue glow of the plankton can be seen. We turn off our headlamps. With every paddle stroke it glows next to me. The bow wave of our kayak is also surrounded by a blue glow. It is so beautiful to see that I would have loved to continue paddling deep into the night. But unfortunately the distance to our camp is not that far. We can already hear the waves rolling in the bay towards the shore and the bottom of our kayak touching the gravel.

What is Bioluminescence?

This mysterious blue-green light comes from billions of microscopic algae that are found here in particularly high concentrations. When they are mechanically stimulated by waves, by a paddle, or while swimming, they briefly light up. The algae responsible for this are called dinoflagellates. Weltweit werden 2400 Arten unterschieden. Aber nur einige von ihnen sind zur Biolumineszenz fähig, wie beispielsweise “Noctiluca miliaris” was auf deutsch “Nachtlaternchen” bedeutet. Wie bei fast allen Arten der Biolumineszenz ist das Leuchten auf eine chemische Reaktion von Luciferin mit dem Enzym Luciferase zurückzuführen.

Experiments have shown that species capable of bioluminescence are less likely to become prey. Presumably, predators are deterred by the luminescence. Other theories suggest that the glow illuminates other organisms, which the predator then grabs instead.

The third Paddling Day

Today we paddle from our camp on Stuart Island back to Spieden Islandwhich we circle on the west side. This puts us in a good position to observe the exotic bighorn sheep, sitka deer and prickly horn antelope that live here. On the open south side of the island these animals can be seen very well. We paddle along the shore to about the height of Sentinel Island. Here we prepare ourselves mentally for the crossing of the Spieden Channel. This time even with some wind and waves. We stay close together as a group and paddle briskly across the channel. While I concentrate on the waves and the paddle movement, my eyes search the water surface not less concentrated for Orcas. But the whales still don't want to show themselves. Instead, a seal appears diagonally in front of us and looks at us with its big eyes.

Our next destination is Posey Island, the second smallest state park in America. Perfect for a quick stop and delicious burritos for lunch. The camp is idyllic. Those who stay here have an island almost to themselves (or their group). But if you want to camp here, you have to make a reservation in advance, like at almost all state parks.

We continue along the east side of Henry Island. To our left is San Juan Island with picturesque bays and some luxurious estates. I enjoy our las stretch on the water and try to soak up as much of this beautiful stretch as possible. Finally we paddle into Westcott Bay where we bring our kayaks ashore. Here the van with trailer of San Juan Kayak Expeditions is already waiting for us.

We unpack our stuff from our green kayak. At this moment I regret that I did not book the five-day tour. I would have loved to paddle even further.

How to get to the San Juan Islands

Friday Harbor, the main town of San Juan Island, is accessible by air or sea.

Tip: It is best to arrive one day before the start of the kayak tour. This is much less stressful. Plus, you may have an opportunity for a first whale watching tour or land-based orca watching at Lime Klin State Park.

By ferry:

Washington State Ferries run daily from Anacortes to Friday Harbor. If you are traveling by car, make a reservation in advance. You pay when you check in. If you want to cross without a car, you don't need a reservation. You don't really need a car in Friday Harbor, because many things can be reached on foot.

We stayed in Friday Harbor for a few days before and after the kayak tour. The only thing we needed a car for was the whale watching tour from Mayas Legacy. This starts in Mitchell Bay in the northwest of the island. Also, we always went to the west coast of San Juan for picnics in the evenings. This is where you get the most amazing sunsets as well as good chances of orca sightings from land.

During the kayak tour we could leave our car in the parking lot of our hotel, the Orcas Inn. If you want to leave your car in Anacortes, you can do so for a fee in the night parking lot of the Anacortes terminal.

By plane:

Friday Harbour Sea Planes offers several seaplane flights daily. Flights by regular aircraft are also offered by San Juan Airlines, Point to Point Air, and Kenmore Air. However, I think the ferry is a better choice.

Packing list for your Kayak Tour

In addition to the kayaks and paddles, life jackets, splash guards, seat cushions, bilge pump, waterproof bags and a tent are provided by the organizer.

• Sleeping bag and sleeping mat
• Head lamp
• Clothing in several layers (quick-drying material)
• Rain jacket and rain trousers    
• Outside the high summer: cap, scarf, gloves.
• Cup, plate, bowl, cutlery
• Drinking bottle, e.g. Nalgene (at least one 1-liter bottle for refilling, better two)
• Snacks for the trip
• Personal hygiene utensils
• Water sandals, if necessary socks for the boat
• Sneakers for the camp
• Binoculars and camera
• Maybe a power bank or solar panel
• Sun cream, sun hat and sun glasses

Book Recommendations for Kayak Enthusiasts

Looking for more great paddling destinations or want to refine your paddling technique? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Have you ever been on a kayak tour for several days and seen orcas or other whales? Where was it? Do you have any questions about my article? If yes, then write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you like paddling as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about a Paddling tour in Patagonia or about a Kayak Tour in the Swedish Archipelago.

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A Gift of the Gods

Today it is a tragedy - but back then it was a gift from the gods. In 1876 a huge right whale washed up on the coast near Northside, Birsay. It is assumed that it was already dead. Whale products were extremely valuable at that time. Normally a specialized company took care of the complete exploitation of the carcasses. The blubber was processed into oil and the bones into fertilizer. But things went differently with the right whale from Birsay.

The local men wanted to recycle the animal themselves - alone. And thus make more profit, because the sale of whale oil was very worthwhile at that time. They bought the whale and began to cut up the carcass and process blubber and bones. The first half was done. Now it was the other side's turn, the whale had to be flipped. But the villagers had neither the manpower nor the equipment to accomplish this turn-around. What a disappointment! But at least the men from Northside got away without financial losses. Finally, half of the whale lay on the beach and decayed. It is said to have taken about 25 years to decompose the remaining carcass and wash away the bones.

The Secret of the Whalebone Sculpture

But not all bones disappeared in the sea. It was common practice at that time for the Orcadians to make all kinds of practical and decorative objects from whale bones. For example, a whirl of the whale was used as a milking stool. From a jawbone and the back of the skull, the whalebone sculpture was created, probably the most enigmatic sculpture of the Orkneys. The about 2-meter-high structure can be seen from afar from the sea and from land. It is assumed that the sculpture was erected between 1880 and 1890. However, it is still unclear who did this. What purpose did this structure serve? Were the Orcadians superstitious and built a monument for the dead whale? Or did the erected bones perhaps served as a landmark for the fishermen? It remains a mystery.

Wind and weather as well as climbing children have left their marks on the Whalbone sculpture. Therefore, the Birsay Heritage Trust repaired the sculpture in 1997 and stabilized the bones. In January 2008, however, the whale bones were torn down by a storm. But even then the Birsay Heritage Trust was able to save the sculpture. Now a metal rod strengthens the jawbone and a concrete foundation also ensures a stable stand. This time a bit further away from the cliffs. Hopefully for many more years to come!

Whaling in Scotland

First evidence of whaling in Scotland was found in Bronze Age settlements. There whale bones were used for construction and decoration. Commercial whaling then began in the Middle Ages. In the 1750s whaling was carried out in most Scottish ports. Starting in the 1770s, whaling fleets headed for the Davis Strait and hired crew members in Stromness. There was also a whale processing factory on the Orkneys. But from the beginning of the 20th century the whaling industry declined. In 1963, the last whaling company finally sold its ships, ending whaling in Scotland.

What are right whales?
What are right whales? On the basis of the jaw-bone, one recognizes that the whale of Birsay was a baleen whale. These feed on plankton in contrast to toothed whales. Instead of the teeth, the baleen whales have long horn-plates in the upper jaw, the so-called baleens. With these they filter the plankton from the water. Baleen whales were popular with whalers because they were large and rich in blubber. They also swam slowly and did not sink after being killed. Baleen whales are divided into three families: Right whales, gray whales and furrow whales. The approximately 15 to 20 meters long right whales were decimated by hunting the most severely from all whales.

Walk to the Whalebone Sculpture of the Orkneys

The Whalebone sculpture is located in the northwest of the main island of the Orkneys. You drive to the headland near Birsay, where you will find a park and picnic area. Most people come here to visit Birsay Tidal Island and the Brough of Birsay. To get to the sculpture, however, you will walk in the opposite direction along the “Skiba Geo Pfad” entlang.

The Skiba Geo Path runs along one of the most beautiful coasts of the Orkneys.If you are lucky you can even see seals on the rocks. About halfway you will pass a restored 19th century fishing cottage. At the bottom of the cliff there are boat-shaped depressions called "nousts". This is where the fishermen used to pull their boats to the shore for protection and to store them during the winter.

Book Recommendations for Scotland

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I recommend the following travel guides, which have proven themselves on my trip:

Do you know the whalebone sculpture on the Orkneys? It's a peculiar, mystical thing, right? Write me a comment and tell me how you liked it!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Recommendations for further Reading

You can find even more mystical places on Iceland: I would like to show you two of them. The first one is the colorful Lava Tunnel Raufarhólshellir and the second one is a Colony of Cairns.. Schaut mal rein.

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Here you can find an overview of all reports from my Antarctic trip.

Whales and icebergs in the Neumayer Channel

With all these whales, I can't remember where to look first. There are seven whales at the same time. Three diagonally in front of us, two on our right and two further away. As I watch the whales, we drive past beautiful, dazzling icebergs. In different sizes and shapes they float in the water. Where the icebergs dip into the water, they are bright blue. Sometimes a seal rests on an ice floe or penguins prepare to jump into the cold water. It is lunchtime. I manage to tear myself away from the wonder world and get some leftovers from the buffet for a quick lunch. Then I go outside again, to the whales and icebergs in the dream landscape of the Neumayer Channel.

Excursus: The colours of the icebergs
Iceberg are mostly white. Sometimes they are bright blue. The white colour results from the scattering of the light at the air bubbles trapped in the ice. If fewer air bubbles are trapped, the ice appears clearer. As a rule, older ice or ice under high pressure has fewer air bubbles. The clear ice then acts like a colour filter - similar to water itself. This is called selective absorption. This means that first red, then orange, then yellow and then green light are absorbed by the ice one after the other. Blue light is absorbed last, so the ice shimmers blue.

The Neumayer Channel and Gerlachestraße

The Neumayer Channel is a narrow sea road in the Palmer Archipelago and separates the Anvers Island from the Wiencke Island. It is about 30 kilometres long and between two and four kilometres wide.

The Neumayer Canal was first sighted by the German captain Dallmann during the hunting season of 1873/74, when he searched for new sealing grounds. With his agile steamboat he could also penetrate into the narrow canal. The Belgian polar explorer Adrien de Gerlache de Gomery later named the channel after the German geophysicist Georg von Neumayer (1826-1909). Neumayer dedicated his life to polar research. In recognition of his commitment to Antarctic research, the Alfred Wegener Institute (AWI) later decided to name the German research station in the Antarctic after him. Find out more about the Neumayer III Research Station here.

To the north, the Neumayer Canal opens into the wider Gerlachestraße, which separates the Palmer Archipelago from the Danco coast of the Antarctic Peninsula. This waterway is named after the Belgian polar explorer Adrien de Gerlache de Gomery (1866-1934). Gerlache explored this area during the Belgica expedition (1897-1899). Among others, the Norwegian Roald Amundsen and the American Frederick Cook were present at that time. Both were still unknown at that time, but later they were to have a decisive influence on polar research. The ship, the "Belgica", was later taken over by Sir Ernest Shakleton and renamed "Endurence". Sir Ernest Shakleton and his crew wrote the most fascinating polar adventure of all time with the expedition of the "Endurence", its downfall and the subsequent rescue operation.

It's an exciting feeling to drive where the polar explorers filled the white areas of the maps with life. The circumstances under which these expeditions took place are hardly imaginable today. And that makes them even more fascinating. Do you want to know more about polar research at that time? Then here's to my favourite books of polar literature.

Book Recommendations for Antarctica

Do you want to know where the journey is going? Then I can recommend this travel books* to you.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. This does not make the product more expensive for you.

Have you ever been to Antarctica in a ship yourself? How did you like it and what were your highlights? Do you have any questions about my article or any other tips for a trip to Antarctica? If so, please write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

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What to expect in this Article

Solowezki Islands - the Nursery of the Beluga Whales
Beluga Cape - Whale Watching from Land
Path to the Beluga Whales of the Solowezki Islands
The ecological Path to Beluga Cape
Beware of Arctic Terns
The Way back from the Beluga Whales
Boat Tours to the Beluga Whales of the Solowezki Islands
The Business with the Beluga Whales
Profile Beluga Whale

Solowezki Islands - the Nursery of the Beluga Whales

White whales in the White Sea. In between are small slate gray whales. These are the calves. Only after about a year do they get a blue-grey colouration and are then called "blues". In the fifth year of life the white whales finally get their eponymous white colouring. 

By the way, the name "Beluga" (white whale) also comes from the word "white", but in Russian: белуха, from белый bely "white". As the white whales are often located at the pack ice border, their white colouring may protect them from polar bear attacks.

Young belugas are often seen on the Solowezki Islands. The protected and flat area in front of the islands serves as a nursery for the animals. In early summer calves are sometimes born here. We were very lucky. In July 2017 we were able to witness how, after an initially inexplicable tumult under water, a newborn calf was lifted to the surface by its mother to breathe. That day was also my birthday. What a gift!

Beluga Cape - Whale Watching from Land

At the westernmost tip of the island of Groß-Solowezki there is a small offshore island - Beluga Cape - from where you can watch the Beluga Whales of the Solowezki Islands from land. For a better view there is even an observation tower. An excursion to the Beluga Cape has to be planned carefully as the island is only accessible at low tide. The tourist information helped us with the tide calendar and explained the way on a map.

The best season for the tour is mid June to mid August. Because in this period the Belugas approach the shores of the Big Solowezki Island. But there is no guarantee that whales will be there. But if there are any, they are close to the shore and can be observed with the naked eye.

By the way: Guided hikes to the Beluga whales of the Solowezki Islands can also be booked at the Solowezki Islands Tourist Information .

Path to the Beluga Whales of the Solowezki Islands

The first part of the way (about 7 km) you can either take a taxi (there are UAZ taxis) or a bicycle. Bicycles can be rented at the bike rental between the monastery and the ferry pier. In any case, take a more robust mountain bike and be sure to plan a little more time for the way. Because the road is in bad condition you will need more time than you think.

The ecological Path to Beluga Cape

The second part of the trail is the approximately 6 km long "ecological trail". It leads you through a beautiful forest to the coast. From here on you can only continue on foot. Swampy places are covered with wooden planks. On the way there we had to hunt through almost at a run, because the low tide was approaching.

At the coast there is a small signpost that describes a path through the mudflats to the island. Now we have to take off our shoes and roll up our trousers. Happy is whoever has bathing sandals now and a small towel for later. After a few meters we had forgotten where the path goes and searched our own way through the mudflats. The target is well visible through the observation tower. When we were there in 2017, the old tower was just replaced by a new one, so unfortunately I can't show the view from above.

Beware of Arctic Terns

As soon as you approach the small island off the coast, watch out for the Arctic terns nesting there! If you get too close to their clutches, they will attack the highest point of you. Well, if that's not your head. You will find a cluster of branches on the shore, which you can hold up above your head to ward off the birds.

The Way back from the Beluga Whales

Don't lose track of time while watching the whales. As soon as the water rises again you have to start your way back. And the water rises faster than expected. We were a bit late, the water was already above our knees and quite cold. So we were even happier when we had dry ground under our feet again and could warm up with some cookies in the sun.

Do you want to know more about the islands in the White Sea? Then take a look at my article about the Solowezki Islands and read more about the moving history of the islands.

Boat Tours to the Beluga Whales of the Solowezki Islands

On the Solowezki Islands boat trips to the Beluga whales are also offered. However, these are very weather-dependent and can be cancelled at short notice. You can book boat trips with plenty of advance notice at Kolatravel or with help / mediation through the local tourist information.

Does the weather not play along and you cannot go on a tour to the whales? Then you might be interested in my article about the monastery and museums of the Solewetzki Islands .

The Business with the Beluga Whales

Watching the Beluga whales in the wild was one of my most beautiful nature experiences. Unfortunately not all Beluga whales are doing so well. Beluga whales are still presented in aquariums as an attraction. They are still caught on a large scale in Russia and are "temporarily stored" in the so-called "whale prison" in the East of Russia near Vladivostok until they are resold to an aquarium. According to Greenpeace, a total of 13 orcas were sold from Russia to China between 2013 and 2016. The average price for an animal is therefore around 700,000 euros.

Up to 100 animals, belugas and orcas, had been kept in the tiny tanks in autumn 2018. There were massive protests and the animals are now a case for the Russian public prosecutor's office. The future of the whales is still unclear (as of spring 2019).

Do you want to know more? In 2017 the three Russian divers Gaya, Tanya and Julia made a moving film about the catch, the torturous keeping and the marketing of the beluga whales: "Condemned to suffer - The business with the beluga whales". To be found on the website of Save the Ocean. The documentary film reveals how things can happen behind the scenes of the beautiful dolphinariums and cheerful shows and shows a reality that visitors of show oceanariums like to hide. I admire the three women for their courage and commitment to the animals and would like to recommend their film to others. At the end of the film they even dive with the whales at the Beluga Cape of the Solowezki Islands. But please do not imitate: swimming and diving with the animals is not allowed for the benefit of the whales.

Another recommendable film on this topic is the film Blackfish. The film tells the story of Tilikum, a trained orca in the SeaWorld adventure park in Florida. The whale pulled his trainer under water during a show and killed her. In shocking pictures Blackfish shows the suffering of whales in captivity and how a multi-million dollar business tries to cover up incidents. An emotional story that gets under your skin. You can read more here. Here to find out more about it.

Profile Beluga Whale
(Delphinapterus leucas)

Area of distribution: in shallow waters, rivers and estuaries in the Arctic and sub-Arctic, mostly near the coast. Occurs mostly between 80th and 46th latitude, depending on the extent of the ice. Migration into rivers is frequently observed, for example also into the Elbe or Loire.

Threats: Pollutants introduced by agriculture and industry are a major burden to populations. These include in particular mercury, lead and organic chlorine compounds such as DDT, PCBs and PAHs. Furthermore, the increasing extraction of oil and the associated pollution and noise pollution is proving to be problematic.

Total length: 4 - 6 m
Weight: 0.4 - 1.5 t
Life expectancy: 30-40 years
Speed: briefly 30 km/h
Maximum diving depth:  up to 600 m
Dive time: 15-20 minutes
Sexual maturity: Females with 5 years, males with 7-8 years
Mating season: spring to summer
Tragzeit: 14,5 months
Birth cycle: every three years, usually in July
Birth length: 1,5 m
Sawing time: 18-23 months
Group size: 5-20 animals, in summer thousands in river deltas
Food: fish, crustaceans, cephalopods. Molluscs and molluscs are collected from the bottom.

Have you ever been to the Solwezki Islands in the White Sea yourself and maybe you have even seen the Belugas? Do you have any questions about my article or suggestions? If so, please write me a comment!

Recommendations for further Reading

Der Beitrag Die Beluga Wale der Solowezki-Inseln erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links.

What you will find in this article:

Lofoten and Vesterålen - what can you expect in Winter?
Road Trip in Winter
The Accommodation - Tradition and cosiness in Rorbu
Stockfish Culture - Fish over fish
Destinations in Winter - Highlights and Tips for Photo Locations
1. Vesterålen - Whales and Sea Eagles in Andenes
2. Fishing Station by Svolvær
3. History of the Lofot Fishing at Lofotmuseet Kabelvåg
4. Fishing Village Henningsvær
5. Nusfjord - one of the most beautiful Places on the Lofoten
6. The Church of Flakstad
7. Kvalvik - Hike to the Bay with Surfer Hut
8. Sildpollnes Chapel at Austnesfjord
9. Fishing Village Å i Lofoten - Fishery Museum
10. Rorbuer of Hamnøy and Reine
11. Northern Lights - Highlight in Winter
Book Recommendations

Lofoten and Vesterålen - what can you expect in Winter?

The snow covers the mountains like a thin layer of icing sugar. From the top of Tjeldbergtinden we can see the rugged landscape of the east coast from afar. We are all alone up here, no other hikers far and wide. What was normal during our hikes in winter, you will experience less often in summer in Lofoten: the feeling of being alone in an untouched nature. Because in the main season from June to August a wave of motorhomes overruns Lofoten. The islands are then close to their capacity limit.

Breathtaking mountain landscapes, deeply incised fjords and white sandy beaches - that is Lofoten. Contemplative fishing villages, colourful wooden houses and fish racks characterise the landscape. The islands are a paradise for nature lovers, hikers and all outdoor enthusiasts. For photographers, the dramatic landscape also provides a perfect backdrop.

The Lofoten - in English "the lynx foot" - lie in Norway between the 67th and 68th degree of latitude. This corresponds to about 100 to 300 km north of the polar circle. The archipelago consists of about 80 individual islands. The main islands are connected by bridges or tunnels. In the north of the Lofoten, the archipelago joins the Vesterålen. Here the landscape is somewhat flatter and there are also good opportunities for whale watching.

Favoured by the Gulf Stream, Lofoten also has a very mild climate in winter. The coldest month is February with an average temperature of -2°C. In the warmest month of July, however, the temperatures are only 12-14 °C.

Since wind and waves mostly come from the west, the eastern sides of the islands are more populated. So you will find most of the villages on the east coast. The landscape becomes more mountainous from north to south and has an alpine character with up to 1,200 metres of altitude.

Road Trip in Winter

For our winter trip to Lofoten and Vesterålen we flew to Bodø and took a rental car there. The tires of the small VW Up had spikes, so that we always felt safe on the icy winding roads. On the way there, we first drove to Tromsø and then over the land connection "Lofast" to the islands. For the way back, we took the ferry from Moskenes up to Bodø. From the ferry, you have then again a great view to the so-called Lofoten wall, thus the mountain panorama of the islands.

We drove the islands from the north of Vesterålen to the southernmost tip of Lofoten. This had the advantage that the landscape became more and more spectacular, as Lofoten gets more and more mountainous and rugged towards the south.

The road conditions were good, but according to the season. Better plan a little more time for the single stages, then you also have more time to drive to the right and enjoy the view over the landscape.

The Lofoten are very popular for photo trips in Norway. Therefore you can see our favourite photo locations on the map next to our route. By clicking on the symbols you can see the photos as a small foretaste.

And if you have a little more time available: How about extending your road trip in Norway a little bit more and visiting Tromsø? Here you can learn more about Tromsø - the gateway to the Arctic.

The Accommodation - Tradition and cosiness in Rorbu

Rorbuer are small huts close to the water, which once served as quarters for the fishermen during the annual cod fishery from January to April. There are rorbuer in the whole north of Norway. Mostly they are associated with the Lofoten. The word is composed of ro (rowing) and bu (living). They are made of wood and usually painted with the then cheap red tran paint as protection. Sometimes they stand halfway in the water on stilts, thus allowing direct access to the boats. Usually several Rorbuer stand at the same time together. They are always a great photo motive and from the inside very comfortable.

The traditional rorbuer consisted of an anteroom for the equipment and a main room. In this room the whole boat crew often slept, cooked and ate. Usually six men belonged to a boat crew. The Lofotmuseet near Kabelvåg shows how such a rorbu was furnished at that time.

King Øystein I had the first Rorbuer built on Lofoten during the early 12th century. Most of them were owned by the village and rented to the fishermen. Some, however, belonged to the fishermen themselves. In the middle of the 20th century, the fishing boats became larger and at the same time became the quarters for the crew. As a result, the rorbuers lost their importance and decayed, many were demolished. In the 60s, however, the conversion of well-preserved rorbuer into modern holiday apartments for tourists began. They offer an original and cosy holiday home, which is also typical for northern Norway.

The Lofoten Fishery - Stockfish and Fish Racks

A sea of fish opens before my eyes. I look closer. On the left rack hang only fish heads, several of them tied together in a bundle. On the frame on the right, on the other hand, the bodies are hanging, each tied together in pairs. It is February and slowly the huge wooden fish racks are filling up, which you can discover almost everywhere on Lofoten and are a classic highlight of the islands. Until around June, the fish remain hanging in the open air and dry during this time in Lofoten's special maritime climate to become a regional speciality.

Besides tourism, fishing is the main source of income in Lofoten and also has a long tradition. Lured by the protected bays of the archipelago and the warm waters of the Gulf Stream, cod from the Barents Sea come to Lofoten every year between January and April to spawn.

Along with the cod, fishermen from all parts of the country came to the north of Norway for the annual Lofoten fishery and with hope of a big catch. Lofoten fishing has a long tradition, going back about 1000 years. The abundance of fish has thus made Lofoten fishing world famous. The caught fish is then dried and processed into stockfish. It is a durable and popular food.

You can try stockfish in the local restaurants. There are different variations on offer, depending on the time the fish is hung. The cod tongues are something very special and especially popular with the fishermen's children.

Towards the end of the 19th century more than 30,000 fishermen were counted during the main fishing season. Today about 5,000 Lofoten people still work full-time as fishermen. But Lofot fishing is no longer what it once was. Only larger towns like Svolvær can make a living from fish processing. Smaller towns, on the other hand, make a living from tourism or aquaculture.

Destinations in Winter - Highlights and Tips for Photo Locations

Now it goes into detail and there is plenty of inspiration for your travel planning. Here I tell you about the highlights of our trip to Lofoten and Vesterålen in winter. From our most beautiful destinations, our hikes, whale sightings and our favourite photo locations. I start in the northern part of Vesterålen and follow the route marked on the map to the southernmost village of Lofoten, with the catchy name Å.

1. Vesterålen - Whales and Sea Eagles in Andenes

The little village Andenes on the Vesterålen was actually the main reason for our whole trip. Only here was it possible to snorkel with orcas. You have read correctly. Snorkeling with orcas in ice-cold water, in the middle of winter, 300 km north of the Arctic Circle. Wrapped up warm in thermal underwear and dry suit including hood and gloves we went on a search for orcas. In winter the orcas follow the herring into the bays in the north of Norway. However, as is often the case in nature, the movements of the animals are not exactly predictable. Unfortunately we had bad luck and did not see any orcas. But at the same time we were lucky, because we could watch several sperm whales and sea eagles during our boat trip.

The team of Sea Safari Andenes has offered these tours in Andenes for many years. However, as the orcas are now less frequently sighted off Andenes, the snorkel tours are now available a little further north in Skjervøy. But only in the months of November and December. If you want to snorkel with orcas, contact Sea Safari Andenes. in advance and ask for the periods with the best chances of sightings.

2. Fishing Station by Svolvær

On the island of Kieøya, west of Svolvær, there are many great photo opportunities. Most impressive I found the drying racks for the stockfish, most of which were fully loaded. You can also discover bunkers from the Second World War or walk along the pier to the foremost point where the statue of a fisherwoman stands.

3. History of the Lofot Fishing at
Lofotmuseet Kabelvåg

In this partly open-air and partly indoor museum you can immerse yourself in the time of the Lofot fishing. There are several north land boats to see as well as traditionally furnished rorbuer and boathouses. On the hillside above the rorbuer, the main building from 1815 is on display, and Lofotmuseet Kabelvåg has an exhibition about fishing in Lofoten, harbours and coastal lighthouses and traditional handicrafts.

4. Fishing Village Henningsvær

The small fishing village Henningsvær has just 510 inhabitants. It lies on two offshore islands at the southern tip of the island Austvågøya. It is accessible via bridges and the drive to Henningsvær alone is impressive. At the entrance to the village, the car can be parked on a large car park, then you can continue on foot along fishing huts to the harbour. Here you have a great view of the colourful fishing boats. If you follow the road, you will first come to a football field with artificial grass and then to the fish racks behind it. Here a wild scenery opens up with great photo opportunities of rocks, cliffs and half overturned fish racks. Henningsvær is also popular with divers and snorkelers.

5. Nusfjord - one of the most beautiful Places on the Lofoten

The small village of Nusfjord is said to be one of the most beautiful on Lofoten. Because yellow and red painted Rorbuer from the 18th/19th century line up photogenic on the shore of the fjord. In 1823 and 1843 the Dahl family bought the village and finally developed it into Lofoten's leading fishing village by 1989. Today the village is an open-air museum whose buildings can be visited in summer for an entrance fee. Many of the Rorbur are now converted into holiday homes. There is a path over wooden footbridges up to a small lookout point on the rock.

The village of Nusfjord and Nesland are connected by a historic fishing trail. Today this path is a marked hiking trail, which we have walked about halfway from Nesland. Softened paths and snowstorm forced us to turn back.

6. The Church of Flakstad

The red wooden church was built in 1780 in cross style and can accommodate about 300 people. Unfortunately it was locked and we could not see it from inside. But also from the outside it is an atmospheric photo motive with its red wooden panels, white window frames and the small onion tower.

7. Kvalvik - Hike to the Bay with Surfer Hut

Der Film “North of the sun”

those of you who were at the E.O.F.T. (European Outdoor Film Tour) in 2014 already know it: Kvalvika Bay (Whale Bay) on the east side of Moskenesøya island. And you also know the movie "North of the sun" from the two surfers Inge Wegge and Jørn Nyseth Ranum. The two Norwegians lived one winter in a self-built hut on the beach. During this time they lived on expired food, which they were allowed to take from the shops for free. Without comfort or support they finally lived for nine months in a barren secluded bay north of the Arctic Circle. They surfed where the best waves are to be found, especially in winter. And they also collected washed up garbage. At the end of their stay, a helicopter carried away a total of three tons.

We were impressed by its history and started to look for the small hut. It is still standing on the same spot and is freely accessible. It is fully equipped with a small stove, mats and blankets. There are also photos hanging on the walls. Next to it there is a note on which Inge and Jørn tell their story. Visitors are invited to stay overnight. Another note motivates people to keep the project alive, do their part and fill a garbage bag with washed up waste. A great project, I think, which shows once again how little you can be happy with. And how easy it is to do something good for nature. If you don't know the film yet, take a look at www.northofthesun.no.     

Hike to the bay and hut

The hike to Kvalvika Bay is one of the highlights of Lofoten and is also easy to do in winter. The bay can only be reached on foot or by boat and offers great camping possibilities. The starting point is a small car park about 3 km behind the village of Fredvang and the trail starts on the opposite side of the road and cannot be missed. It leads first over stone slabs and through a small birch forest. Soon the area becomes swampy and wooden planks are laid out. A somewhat steeper ascent follows and after about 45 minutes the highest point is reached. Soon the view of the bay opens up. The path up and down is rocky and not exactly defined. But the direction is clearly visible. After about two kilometers and 160 meters of altitude difference you have reached the beach. You will find the hut if you keep left, about halfway between the mountains and the beach.

8. Sildpollnes Chapel at Austnesfjord

Coming from the north, there is a rest area on the left side of the road with a view of the Austnesfjord. From here you have a great view of the Sildpollnes Chapel. The view is especially beautiful in the evening hours when the sky is changing colour.

9. Fishing Village Å i Lofoten - Fishery Museum

The Norwegian Fishery Museum in Å i Lofoten is more of a museum village. The 23 museum buildings are distributed around the harbour. On display are fishermen's cabins (rorbuer), boathouses, a blacksmith's shop, a trankochery and a bakery. Besides boats, there is also a wide range of fishing equipment on display and there are great opportunities for detailed photos of nets or buoys. Especially in rainy weather a visit to the museum is an interesting option. The buildings are 100 to 200 years old and their colouring traditionally indicates their intended function. The houses of the village owners are painted in white, those of the merchants in blue and those of the fishermen in red.

10. Rorbuer of Hamnøy and Reine

The rorbuer of Hamnøy is one of the most popular photo locations in Lofoten. Both by day and by night and in the best case with northern lights the view is fantastic. The red rorbuer are dominated by the 700 m high Lilandstinden.

The small fishing village of Hamnøy is situated on the dam-connected island of Hamnøya at the beginning of the Reinefjord. Hamnøy is one of the most traditional fishing villages in Moskenesøy. The rorbuer are now furnished as holiday homes.

The journey to the neighbouring village Reine is over 3 bridges. On the way there you can see the beautiful yellow painted rorbuer of Sakrisøy (see cover picture). From the last bridge before Reine you also have a great view of the rorbuer of Reine.

11. Northern Lights - Highlight in Winter

They are among the most beautiful experiences you can have in the north in winter. An absolute highlight on Lofoten and Vesterålen in winter. The northern lights, also called Aurora Borealis. They robbed me of my sleep, because when they appeared, I could not tear myself away. And if they did not appear, then at least I had to constantly look out of the window to check them.

There are several Auroral Forecast Appsto make your search easier. It informs you how high the probability for aurora is at your location. The app uses the so-called KP index for this purpose. Furthermore, the app offers you a forecast for the coming hours and days. Of course, the weather forecast is also important. Because when it's cloudy, the northern lights are unfortunately hidden behind the clouds. The degree of cloudiness can vary depending on the location. Therefore, it is definitely worthwhile to have a look at the forecast in the neighbouring villages.

Book Recommendations

The Lofot Fishermen - The last Viking by Johann Beuer

The novel from the year 1924 describes very vividly the Lofoten fishing and the life of the fishermen at that time. It gives an insight into the fates of the fishermen and lets you experience Lofoten even more intensely. You will visit villages described in the novel and see the Rorbuer houses with different eyes.

Unfortunately the book is out of print and can only be purchased as a used copy, e.g. from Amazon* .

Story line of the novel: Kristaver Myran fährt mit seiner Mannschaft zum alljährlichen Lofot-Fischfang. Ersatmals nutz er sein neues Boot “Robbe” und erstmals ist auch sein ältester Sohn Lars dabei. Es geht um Fischfang und Geld, Kälte und Sturm, Rorbuer und Boote, Heimweh und Überlebenskampf. Doch die Lofotfischer kämpfen nicht nur gegen Sturm und Wellen an. Sie erkämpfen sich auch Zugang zum Trollfjord, dessen Einfahrt im Winter 1890 von Dampfbooten blockiert wurde. Denn diese wollten den Trollfjord mit Senknetzen selber abfischen, die Nordlandboote sollten hingegen nur gegen Bezahlung fischen dürfen. Berühmt wurde dieser Kampf als “Die Schlacht vom Trollfjord”. Es war der erste große Kampf zwischen kapitalkräftigen Unternehmen und einfachen Fischern um die Ressourcen des Meeres.

back to the table of contents

Lofoten: With 12 Island Routes, 20 Walks by Michael Möbius and Annette Ster

The standard work on the Lofoten Islands. It contains articles about the country and its people, geology, climate and weather, flora and fauna, art, fishing and angling. The practical part continues with information about travel preparations, accommodation, food and drink and activities. The book also describes 12 island routes, including the so-called whale route to neighbouring Vesterålen. The book concludes with descriptions of 20 walks in the mountains between fjords: different levels of difficulty including all necessary information.

Available at Amazon*

Rother Hiking Guide Lofoten and Vesteralen by Andrea Kostial and Tobias Kostial

The Rother Hiking Guide "Lofoten and Vesterålen" presents the 60 most beautiful tours north of the Arctic Circle. The routes range from family-friendly coastal walks to demanding mountain climbs. The book provides all the important information about the infrastructure of each hike, along with precise route descriptions, map sections with drawn-in routes and meaningful altitude profiles. GPS tracks are available for download from the Bergverlag Rother website.

Available at Amazon*

Have you ever been to Lofoten yourself, maybe even in winter? How did you like it? Do you have any questions about my article or further suggestions? If so, please write me a comment!

Recommendations for further Reading

With Land Rover Series II to Iceland - ABC for an "Offroad"-Trip

Faroe Islands - Road trip over the wild islands in the North Atlantic

Der Beitrag Lofoten und Vesterålen – Highlights im Winter erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

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What you will find in this article

Winter Boat Trip on the Fjords
See Northern Lights
Reindeer Race through Tromsø's Pedestrian Zone
Reindeer Sledge Ride under the Northern Lights
The "Gateway to the Arctic" - Polar History at the Polar Museum in Tromsø

Winter Boat Trip on the Fjords

When I planned our trip to Tromsø in winter, the boat trips were the first priority. As in the winter time, it is possible to see orcas in the fjords around Tromsø. The whales follow the migrations of the herring shoals. Between November and January they are then in the fjords near Tromsø and can often be seen close to land. But a little luck is always part of it. This is unfortunately the case with animal observations. When we were in Tromsø at the beginning of February, the whales had unfortunately already moved on.

We made the trip by boat anyway and did not regret it at all. The landscape is breathtakingly beautiful and we saw many sea eagles. Our trip over the fjords started in Lauklines. Here we were still provided with a thermal suit and warm boots, because on the boat it became bitterly cold after a while. As it should be for the Arctic.

If you want to try to see the orcas yourself, it is best to ask the organizer of the boat tours which months he would recommend. The routes of the herrings change over the years and so do the routes of the orcas. Read more in my article At the Orcas' Lunch Table - Snorkeling with Orcas In Skiervøy, Norway.

You are interested in whale-watching in winter? Then my article about Lofoten and Vesterålen might be something for you.

See Northern Lights

If you think of the Arctic in winter, you usually think of white snowy landscapes and northern lights. In green bands they move slowly across the sky and always amaze me. The mystical light plays in the night sky are simply beautiful. Sometimes there are even purple stripes at the edges.

Excursus: The Colours of the Northern Lights
Aurora Borealis is created when electrons from the solar wind meet gas molecules in the Earth's atmosphere. The molecules are electrically charged and excited to glow. Red, green or blue light is produced. There are also mixed colours such as violet, white and yellow. The colour depends on the height at which the electrons hit the atmosphere. Because the atmosphere has a different gas composition depending on the altitude. At an altitude of 80 to 150 kilometres, the oxygen content is higher and green light is produced. In contrast, at an altitude of 150 to 600 kilometres there are more nitrogen atoms and red and blue light is produced.

If you want to observe northern lights it is best to drive a little out of the city. Because the further away you are from the city, the less light pollution there is and the more intense the northern lights are visible. If you don't have your own vehicle, you can also join an organized aurora borealis tour.

In any case I can recommend a Prediction App. It informs you how high the probability for aurora borealis is at your location. The app uses the so-called KP-Index for this purpose. Furthermore the app offers you a forecast for the coming hours and days.

To take pictures of the aurora, you need a tripod and a fast lens. You should set the iso-value of your camera with open aperture so that the image noise does not affect the image quality. This varies from camera to camera.

Reindeer Race through Tromsø's Pedestrian Zone

Every year on a Sunday in February the pedestrian zone in Tromsø is transformed into a race track. In the middle of the Storgata, snow is piled up, at the northern end start boxes are set up and at the southern end the finish line is marked out.

I had no idea before how fast reindeer can run. They live up to their name. After the start signal they jump out of their pits and it goes in wild speed along the Storgata. They are driven by a slim rider who is pulled behind them on skis. Every year the 12 fastest races from Norway and Finland are at the start.

The race is the absolute highlight of the Sami week, which you must not miss. But the other events of the festival are also worthwhile and give you an insight into Sami culture. Sami (outdated Lapp) is the name of the indigenous population of the Arctic area of Sápmi. In honour of their culture, the Sami Week is celebrated in Tromsø every year at the beginning of February.

Throughout the week there is a varied cultural programme, including exhibitions, language courses, concerts and the Norwegian championship in lasso throwing. The Arctic market at the northern end of the Storgata offers traditional handicrafts and Sami food in lavvu (Sami tent). Here you can try bidos (reindeer meat stew) and lefse (soft flatbread made from potatoes) or try the super warm Sami woollen gloves.

Reindeer Sledge Ride under the Northern Lights

Enthusiastic about the fast reindeer that were racing in the Storgata, I booked a reindeer sleigh ride. At the tourist information at the Roald Amundsen Square there are offers for trips during daylight or in the evening with the chance of seeing northern lights. We started the same evening and after about an hour of driving we reached Camp Tamok.

It was -20°C. We were a bit away from Tromsø but I felt as if I had just walked through the gate to the Arctic. It was already dark and the sky was starry. After we were equipped with warm thermo suits and boots, we started. First we had to catch two reindeer. I had quite a lot of respect for the protruding antlers and hoped the animal would know how big it is. Not that it would run around me. But I didn't have to worry, because the animal stopped well-behaved and I was able to attach the rope to the halter. Proudly I led the reindeer to the sleigh. Each animal should pull one of the wooden sledges.

The Reindeer Sledge

The reindeer sleigh is a traditional means of transport for the Sami people. It was important in connection with nomadic reindeer husbandry, where shepherds followed the reindeer on their migrations. While reindeer were once used as draught or pack animals, nowadays tamed reindeer are used in sports or tourism.

Progress has been slow. But it was just the right speed to enjoy everything. Because above us the northern lights were moving in the starry sky. To the left and right of us were small snow-covered trees. The stars reflected in their icy branches and made them sparkle like Christmas trees. And in front of us the reindeer puffed, its breath condensed in the cold, dry air. A kitschy and beautiful experience!

To warm up, we had coffee and stories about life as reindeer herders in the traditional lavvu.

Reindeer Breeding

The beginnings of reindeer husbandry date back to the 15th century. In the 17th century, it became the livelihood of the mountain herders. Today, only a few Sami are still breeding. For economic reasons, however, it was intensified and the herds grew larger and larger. More than 500,000 reindeer live in the whole of Sápmi. The number of animals is now so high that their main food, lichen, can hardly grow back.

Mining, wind farms and conflicts with forest owners affect the reindeer economy. Climate change is also affecting the herds, as the animals no longer get enough food. Even under metres of snow the animals can track down lichens and mosses and dig them out with their hooves. However, when the snow becomes warm, too wet and then freezes again, a layer of ice forms which the reindeer cannot break through.

The "Gateway to the Arctic" - Polar History at the Polar Museum

The Polar Museum was opened in 1978 and is dedicated to hunting, fishing and research in the Arctic. Among other things, it reports on Norwegian polar expeditions and the history of the discovery of the North Pole. The museum building is located in a former customs building from 1833, which was used by customs as a warehouse and administration building until 1970. It is one of a series of pier houses that have been listed as historical monuments since 2000.

The exhibitions cover the following topics:

• Hibernation and hunting in the Arctic
• Hunter Henry Rudi, who killed 713 polar bears
• “Der” erste weibliche Überwinterer – Wanny Woldstad
• Fridtjof Nansens and Roald Amundsen's life and expeditions
• Helmer Hansen and Hjalmar Johansen, who accompanied Amundsen to the South Pole
• The discovery of Spitsbergen by Willhelm Barentsz in the 16th century, whaling in the 17th and 18th centuries and the Russian way of winter hunting
• Changing exhibitions under the roof of the warehouse

Thanks to its proximity to the Arctic, Tromsø has become the starting point for many polar expeditions. At the end of the 19th century, at the time of the great polar expeditions, Tromsø developed into the "Gateway to the Arctic". The Fram Expedition (1893 - 1896) of Fridtjof Nansen as also the expeditions of Roald Amundsen with the ship Maud (1918 - 1921) and with the flying boat Latham 47 (1928) are specially exciting.

Fram expedition of Fridtjof Nansen (1893 - 1896)

The Fram Expedition (1893 - 1896) of Fridtjof Nansen made a stopover in Tromsø. Via Vardø the Fram sailed along the Siberian coast to the New Siberian Islands. The aim of the journey was to reach the geographical North Pole by means of natural ice drift. For this purpose, the ice-strengthened ship was frozen in pack ice and drifted for about three years to Spitsbergen. In August 1896, the Fram returned to Tromsø. The ship did not reach the geographic North Pole. But Nansen and Johansen started the attempt to reach the geographic North Pole on foot. But after a march of approximately four weeks, they decided to turn back. They did not reach the geographical North Pole, but they set the North Record of that time. After spending the winter in the Franz-Josef Archipelago, they reached the port of Vardø in August 1896 on Frederik Jackson's ship Winward.

Maud expedition of Roald Amundsen (1918 - 1921)

On 16 June 1918 the ship Maud left Roald Amundsen in Tromsø and sailed northeast. The plan was to penetrate the ice in the eastern Arctic and drift with the ice to the North Pole for four or five years. However, the expedition did not go according to plan. After three overwinters in the ice and crossing the Northeast Passage, the Maud reached Seattle in 1921.

Rescue Mission of Roald Amundsen with the flying Boat (1928)

On June 18, 1928, Roald Amundsen set off with the flying boat of type Latham 47 to rescue Umberto Nobile. His airship Italia had previously crashed on an ice floe. Amundsen did not return from his search for Nobile. His flying boat was lost near the Bear Islands, the wreckage has not yet been found.

Book recommendations for Norway

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Have you ever been to Norway in winter? Maybe even in Tromsø? Do you have any questions about my article? If so, please write me a comment!

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With the dog sled from Tasiilaq to Tiniteqilaaq

Greenland in Winter

Der Beitrag Winter in Tromsø – das Tor zur Arktis erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.