Germany. The Kaiserstuhl Trail is one of Germany’s most beautiful hiking trails, winding its way for about 22 kilometers through one of Baden-Württemberg’s most fascinating landscapes. The route runs from Endingen to Ihringen over the ridge of the extinct Kaiserstuhl volcano and offers an extraordinary variety of natural and cultural landscapes. Vineyards, shady deciduous forests, loess ravines, and impressive panoramic views characterize the trail. The geological history of the Kaiserstuhl is still visible today in striking basalt cliffs, loess walls, and distinctive ridges. Mediterranean-style vegetation, rare animal species, and the unique geology make this tour truly special. The route can be hiked in about six to seven hours.

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The Kaiserstuhl Trail at a Glance

• Distance: 21.7 km
• Ascent: 590 m
• Descent: 610 m
• Start / End: Ihringen and Endingen
• For those who don’t want to hike the entire route: There are options to descend to the train stations in Bahlingen or Vogtsburg, as well as the bus stop in Bickensohl
• The appropriate hiking map is available from KOMPASS: Hiking Map 883 Kaiserstuhl, Tuniberg, Kenzingen, Emmendingen, Breisach am Rhein 1:25,000 (affiliate link as an Amazon partner)

The Kaiserstuhl Trail has been certified by the German Hiking Association as a “Quality Trail: Wanderbares Deutschland” and took second place in the “Germany’s Most Beautiful Hiking Trail 2019” competition—and rightly so, as it uniquely combines the joy of hiking, the experience of nature, and scenic diversity.

It all began with Volcanoes

The Kaiserstuhl owes its distinctive shape and fertile soils to its volcanic origins, which date back some 16 to 19 million years. During this period, the region was geologically active; magma rose from the depths and formed a complex volcanic area in the middle of what is now the Upper Rhine Plain. The remnants of this volcanic activity still shape the landscape today: basalt and tuff rock permeate the subsoil, and in many places, geological outcrops are visible, bearing witness to the region’s fiery past. The volcanic rock is overlaid by fertile loess that was deposited during the Ice Age and today creates ideal conditions for viticulture. Its volcanic origin not only makes the Kaiserstuhl geologically unique but also explains the region’s exceptional soil fertility and biodiversity.

Highlights along the Kaiserstuhl Trail

The Kaiserstuhl Trail never gets boring. The landscape is varied, and even in the final kilometers, you’ll still discover new things that will leave you in awe. The varied terrain, scenic overlooks, colorful plants, and brightly colored bee-eaters and green lizards seem to follow one after another. Here’s what I liked best about the Kaiserstuhl Trail:

Endingen Old Town

The Kaiserstuhl Trail begins or ends in the historic old town of Endingen, with its charming half-timbered houses and cobblestone alleys. From there, the trail leads to the Erleweiher, a small natural swimming lake on the outskirts of town. A short while later, you walk through a chestnut tree-lined avenue, whose trees—over 70 years old—constitute a living natural monument. A first cultural highlight follows with the Katharinenkapelle, a striking building from 1862 offering views of the surrounding area. The trail continues to the Bahlinger Eck, where it crosses the Hudenwälder—a relic of traditional forest management.

Badberg Nature Reserve

The Badberg Nature Reserve is one of the ecological gems of the Kaiserstuhl region and serves as a prime example of the region’s unique flora and fauna. Rare dry grassland plants, orchids, and heat-loving herbs—found in only a few places in Germany today—thrive on the sun-exposed, largely treeless slopes. The area is also a hotspot for insect diversity, including numerous species of butterflies and wild bees, and offers an ideal habitat for reptiles such as the sand lizard and the green lizard. I spotted many kestrels and red kites flying over the meadows. It’s definitely worth taking a short break here.

Eichelspitz Tower

The Eichelspitz Tower is a striking lookout point on the Eichelspitz, the second-highest peak in the Kaiserstuhl at 520 meters, offering panoramic views from the Black Forest across the Rhine Valley to the Vosges Mountains. The tower itself is a modern steel-and-wood structure.

Totenkopf with the Neunlindenturm

The Neunlindenturm is one of the most beautiful vantage points in the Kaiserstuhl and sits atop the highest peak of the low mountain range, the Totenkopf (556 m). The tower is located in the middle of the forest and offers a surprising, sweeping panoramic view of the entire Kaiserstuhl, the Rhine Valley, the Black Forest, and, on a clear day, as far as the Vosges Mountains. The viewpoint owes its name to a historic planting of nine linden trees, some of which still stand today.

Sunken paths, especially around Bickensohl

The Kaiserstuhl sunken paths are impressive testaments to a centuries-old cultural landscape. Over many generations, people and animals, wagons and carts have trodden and driven along these paths in the soft loess soil. Rainwater further eroded the ground, forming deep paths lined with steep walls. These unique earth formations once served as access routes to the vineyards. Today, only a few of these traditional sunken paths remain, but they are all the more significant: as cultural monuments, important recreational areas, and above all as valuable habitats for rare species. Wild bees and other heat-loving insects, in particular, find ideal conditions in the open, sun-drenched loess walls.

Vineyards and terraced Landscapes

The Kaiserstuhl Trail winds through the region’s characteristic vineyards and terraced landscapes, which define the Kaiserstuhl’s landscape and give it its distinctive character. Over centuries of work, winemakers have created a unique cultural landscape here, where grapevines thrive on artfully laid-out terraces, often lined with dry stone walls that also provide habitats for many animals. The warm southern slopes, the fertile loess soil, and the sunny climate make the Kaiserstuhl one of Germany’s most important wine-growing regions. Burgundy grape varieties, in particular, find ideal conditions here.

Green Lizards

With its bright green-blue scales, the green lizard is a real eye-catcher. It is one of the largest lizards in Central Europe and feels particularly at home on the warm, sunny slopes and loess cliffs of the Kaiserstuhl. Especially during the mating season in spring, the males display their intensely turquoise throats. If you hike with your eyes peeled, you might spot them sunbathing or darting into the bushes in a flash.

Bee-eater

The bee-eater is one of the most colorful and, at the same time, most unusual birds in Germany. Thanks to the warm, dry climate and the open loess landscapes, this originally Mediterranean breeding bird finds ideal conditions here. With its bright turquoise-yellow plumage, slender silhouette, and characteristic call, the bee-eater is not only an ornithological rarity but also a symbol of the extraordinary biodiversity in the Kaiserstuhl. It nests in steep, sandy loess cliffs, where it digs long tunnels into the ground. Its diet consists mainly of insects, particularly bees, wasps, and dragonflies, which it elegantly catches in flight. The return of the bee-eaters in the spring makes the Kaiserstuhl a hotspot for birdwatchers. There are good viewing opportunities near Ihringen, where there is even a small birdwatching hut behind the cemetery.

Hoopoe

With its striking appearance and unmistakable “hoop-hoop-hoop” call, the hoopoe is one of the most charismatic bird species in the Kaiserstuhl. With its rust-orange plumage, distinctive crest, and long, curved beak, it’s hard to miss. Thanks to its warm climate, diverse landscapes, and numerous cavities in old trees, dry stone walls, or nest boxes, the Kaiserstuhl offers ideal living conditions for the hoopoe. If you hike with your eyes and ears open, you have a good chance of spotting this rare bird near Ihringen. I’ve also seen a few hoopoes on my hikes, but only briefly or from a great distance. Maybe you’ll have better luck.

Flora

The Kaiserstuhl’s flora is exceptionally diverse and ranks among the most species-rich in Germany. The combination of a mild climate, south-facing slopes, loess soil, and historical land use creates ideal conditions for many rare and heat-loving plant species. Especially on the dry grasslands and in the loess ravines, a colorful variety of flowers blooms, reaching its peak in spring and early summer. This rich plant life also makes the Kaiserstuhl a paradise for insects.

The Wine-Growing Village of Ihringen

The charming wine-growing village of Ihringen marks the southern end or starting point of the Kaiserstuhl Trail and is an ideal place to end or begin a hike. As one of the warmest municipalities in Germany, Ihringen is known for its wine-growing and offers cozy wine taverns and vineyards serving local specialties and excellent wines. If you like, you can also stay overnight here or round off your visit with a wine tasting.

Best time to hike the Kaiserstuhl Trail

The trail is accessible year-round, but it does require a certain level of basic fitness, not least because of the sometimes steep ascents and the varying elevation profile.

The Kaiserstuhl is considered one of the warmest regions in Germany. Even in spring, you need to be prepared for strong sunlight: sunscreen, a sun hat, and plenty of drinking water should be packed in your backpack. You can refill your water bottles along the way, for example at a restaurant in Bickensohl. Along the way, there are sunken paths that provide shade, as well as numerous benches and picnic areas in shaded spots. The sections of the trail through the forest (such as the northern half of the route) are pleasantly shaded, though the climbs make them more strenuous than the southern section.

Practical Tips for Your Hike on the Kaiserstuhl Trail

Safety and Equipment

• Footwear: Sturdy hiking boots with good traction, as some sections are steep or rocky.
• Water: It gets very hot in the summer, especially on the south-facing trails. Be sure to bring plenty of water!
• Sun protection: A hat and sunscreen are essential.
• Check the weather: Some trails are slippery when wet, and fog can severely limit visibility.
• Don't forget your first aid kit

Getting there

• Public Transportation: Endingen and Ihringen are both easily accessible by train, making the Kaiserstuhl Trail ideal for a round-trip hike without a car. Trains depart every 30 minutes from Freiburg Central Station and from Breisach.

Places to Stop for Refreshments

• In Endingen, Bickensohl, and Ihringen, there are wine taverns, wine bars, and restaurants.

Book Recommendations for the Kaiserstuhl

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

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Recommendations for further Reading

Do you enjoy being outdoors? Then you'll definitely be interested in my articles on staying healthy on trekking tours or about midges in Scotland.

Der Beitrag Auf dem Kaiserstuhlpfad – Wandern zwischen Reben und Vulkanen erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Germany. It is early December. The two-and-a-half-hour ferry crossing from Cuxhaven to Heligoland can be a wild ride at this time of year. But right now, something very special is attracting many nature lovers to Germany's offshore island: the birth season of the gray seals. From November to January, hundreds of gray seals are born on the flat sandy beaches of Heligoland Düne. It's a natural spectacle that is second to none.

I am spending three days on Heligoland to photograph the seals. I am hoping for one of those rare moments that nature photographers dream of: a birth. In the following, I will tell you about my time with the gray seals and give you lots of practical tips for your own photo trip to the seals on Heligoland Düne

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New Life among the Gray Seals

The wind has a firm grip on the Heligoland dunes. Fine sand whips across the beach, drawing bright veils across the ground. The grains of sand hit me like tiny needles and crunch between my teeth. I am glad I have my safety goggles from the hardware store, which allow me to keep my eyes open without straining them. My gaze and my camera are fixed on a large gray seal that is behaving conspicuously nervously, not far from the barrier fence. After a few minutes of sand exfoliation, my suspicion is confirmed: her abdomen reveals a bulging red amniotic sac.

The female turns awkwardly onto her side, first one way, then the other. She bends like a banana, turns in circles, and tries to push the amniotic sac further out. The surrounding seals raise their heads, unimpressed. The offspring takes its time. For about 15 minutes, it hangs halfway out in the fresh North Sea wind of 7 Beaufort, while its mother twists and turns, bends and rolls in circles. All without making a sound, less than two meters away from the mobile barrier fence that separates visitors from the wild animals. All observers keep a respectful distance and watch. Also, without making a sound. Then suddenly everything happens very quickly, and a wet, yellowish bundle lies in the sand.

The little seal pup immediately opens its eyes and is sniffed and touched by its mother. Moments of closeness, simply beautiful to watch. Meanwhile, the crows jostle in front of the placenta before it cools down and is covered with sand. A wild feeding frenzy begins. The calf looks at the world with its big black eyes, somewhat irritated. Can it already see the crow right in front of it clearly? Can it see us photographers? Its first movements seem shaky, tentative. It takes a while for the little one to find the milk teats and for its fur to dry. Now it is no longer yellowish, but shows its beautiful white lanugo fur. A piece of the fresh umbilical cord still hangs from its belly.

Growth in Record Time – From a white Ball of Fur to Germany's Largest Predator

Seal pups are born weighing around 10 to 14 kilograms. Due to the fat content of their milk, which is more than 50 percent, the pups gain up to two kilograms per day and soon develop a thick, white layer of blubber. Some mothers stay with their calves permanently, while others leave their young alone for a few hours to go fishing. When the calves are weaned after 15 to 21 days, they are on their own. About ten days after weaning, their fur changes, and the white woolly coat is replaced by a swimming coat. Then come the first attempts at swimming, and the young seal begins to hunt instinctively.

On the beach, I see young animals that are only a few days old and others that have already become little rolls of blubber. They seem extremely clumsy on land, but are already very curious. They explore with their snouts, feel their way with their highly sensitive whiskers, and turn their heads toward every new sound.

Grey seals belong to the family of dog seals. Their range extends from Norway to the East Coast of America. The animals that come to Heligoland belong to the eastern North Sea population. They are the largest predators in Germany:

• Males can weigh up to 300 kilograms. They only reach their full strength at around eight years of age.
• Females remain significantly smaller, weighing between 150 and 200 kilograms.
• Young animals weigh between 10 and 14 kilograms at birth.
• The average life expectancy of a gray seal is 35 years.
• Gray seals can reach speeds of up to 20 km/h on land and up to 40 km/h in water.
• Estimates of the survival rate in the first year of life vary greatly depending on location and conditions, ranging from less than 50% to 85%. The main causes of death are often starvation or injury.

Deutschlands wohl stürmischste Kinderstube

Heligoland Dune is barely recognizable in winter. The summer vacationers are gone, leaving behind silence, wind, and Germany's largest gray seal colony. Every year starting in November, this beach becomes the most important birthplace for the eastern North Sea population of gray seals (Halichoerus grypus).Halichoerus grypus).

What appears to be a barren place is in fact a perfectly functioning nursery:

• Strict social distancing rules and barriers separate visitors from the animals.
• A wide beach that is never completely flooded.
• Vigilant rangers keep an eye on seal pups in need of help and keep an eye on visitors.
• Waters rich in fish.

The gray seals often lie close together. Therefore, the beaches are closed to humans. It is no longer possible to walk on the beach without disturbing the seals or risking a bite. However, you can still observe the animals:

There is a raised wooden boardwalk in the dunes on the north beach. From here, you have a good view of the north beach. Some of the seals lie very close to or high up in the dunes. Sometimes they even crawl across the panoramic trail.

The southern beach is accessible up to the Düne restaurant (closed in winter) at the upper edge; the rest of the beach is separated by a sturdy metal fence. The seals are also spread out across the entire beach up to the fence. Despite the fence, it is important to keep your distance here as well, otherwise the animals will become restless or too accustomed to humans. This can become a problem in the following bathing season when the seals, accustomed to humans, get too close to bathers.

A Look back at the History of Heligoland

Heligoland and the neighboring island of Düne only acquired their current shape and size during the Nazi era. In order to develop Heligoland as a strategic naval port, both islands were to be greatly enlarged as part of the Hummerschere project. To this end, large parts of the present-day island were filled in and fortified so that their shape and size were no longer subject to the influence of the tides. This created the northeast and south harbor areas on the main island, and Düne was enlarged many times over, and the airport was built.

Gray Seals in Germany – A Success Story

Grey seals used to be mercilessly hunted in the North Sea – for their fur, their meat, and because of the mistaken belief that they were decimating fish stocks. By the beginning of the 20th century, gray seals had been almost wiped out in German waters. In addition to hunting, environmental toxins also caused their numbers to decline dramatically. It was only with strict protection under the Federal Nature Conservation Act, international agreements, and the designation of the Heligoland FFH area with the Heligoland rock base that the population began to slowly recover.

Since the first gray seal birth on Heligoland in the winter of 1996/97, there has been a steady increase in the number of births. Today, Heligoland is the most important breeding ground for gray seals in Germany—and one of the few places in Europe where you can observe the birth of these animals without endangering them. Today, around 1,000 pups are born here every year – and the trend is rising.

Total number of gray seal births (source: Verein Jordsand e.V.):

– 2024/25: over 1,000 pups
– 2023/24: 850-900 pups
– 2022/23: 700-800 pups
– 2021/22: 670 pups
– 2020/21: 652 pups

Life in the Colony – Closeness and Distance

Wind blows sand across the beach, swirling around the animals like thin veils. But the seals seem unmoved by such moments: they close their eyes and let everything wash over them. There is a clear order among the adult animals: mothers keep their distance from each other, young animals lie scattered across a wide area, and males patrol the edges. Although the colony appears dense, the animals rarely touch each other.

The most common behaviors I observe are:

• Contact sounds between mother and pup, suckling, playful physical contact between pup and mother
• Protection of the pup from other seals
• Rearing up and threatening, especially between males, but also females, who attack each other if one comes too close.
• Mock attacks, which often consist only of a low head position and open mouth
• Bloody fights between the bulls
• The approach of the bulls to the females, because mating takes place immediately after weaning the young. Most of the time, the bulls are driven away, but I was able to observe mating twice.

Mating Season in Winter

While the young animals still lie awkwardly on the beach, the mating season begins for the adults. The males wait, observe, and show their presence. They keep a close eye on when one of their females is ready to mate. However, if the males approach the female too early, they are rudely rejected.

The stately bulls vehemently defend their harem (typically five to seven females) against intruders and competitors. Violent fights are rare – most rivalries are decided by body language, vocalizations, and mutual intimidation.

After successful mating, the fertilized egg enters a dormant period of around three months. Only then does the approximately eight-month embryonic development begin. This makes it possible for the birth to take place again in winter. By then, most females have built up enough energy reserves to nurse for several weeks.

The Moment that remains

As I leave the beach in the evening, the calf whose birth I witnessed is nestled close to its mother. Its fur is no longer wet and shines white. It looks around curiously, appearing full and content. The moment when the seal pup fell from the bursting amniotic sac onto the beach and lay there as a wet, helpless bundle in the sand-filled gusts of wind is burned into my memory.

Heligoland Dune shows its roughest side in winter. And at the same time it's most tender. New life grows here, and nature tells one of its oldest stories. Quiet. Wild. And every year anew.

How to behave around Gray Seals

Gray seals are Germany's largest predators and should be treated with respect and consideration. For the successful rearing of young animals and for your own safety, please note the following:

• Check with the rangers and staff of the Jordsands e.V. association about the current accessibility of the beaches and any restrictions in place.
• You may encounter seals outside the barriers. On freely accessible areas, be sure to keep a distance of 30 meters from the animals.
• Young animals that have been influenced by too close contact with humans can sometimes make safe and carefree swimming difficult in summer. They approach bathers fearlessly.
• Do not go near bull fights, as the animals can reach speeds of around 20 km/h on land and are particularly aggressive during the mating season.
• Do not block the animals' access to the water or from the water to land. Never get between a calf and its mother.
• Severe disturbances can permanently disrupt the sensitive bond between mother and calf, which can lead to high calf mortality in the first year of life.

Photography Tips for Gray Seals on Heligoland Dune

Access to the beach:

The beaches are largely closed during the breeding season. There is an elevated panoramic path on the north beach from which you can observe the seals, and on the south beach you can walk along the beach up to a metal fence separating it from the dune restaurant.

Perspective:

Since the gray seals lie on the ground, the best pictures are taken when you lie on the ground yourself. This is only possible on the south beach, where the metal fence is located.

Focal length:

I took most of the pictures with a 200-600 mm telephoto lens. Unfortunately, the lens end was too large in diameter, so I couldn't use the metal fence as a tripod substitute. However, I was still able to take good pictures, even close to the ground. The 100-400 mm lens would have been better suited. A standard lens is definitely worthwhile for photographing the landscape and the seals in their habitat.

Best time to travel:

The birthing season lasts from November to January. When I was on Heligoland Düne at the beginning of December, around 700 pups had already been born, and there were many different age groups. The best chance of seeing a birth is at the end of November.

Best time of the day:

I couldn't detect any different activity patterns among the gray seals throughout the day, but it is said that they are most active in the morning. In addition, the morning and evening are particularly beautiful because of the beautiful light. This allows you to take beautiful backlit shots in the morning

Sand and rain:

Sand blows most near the ground, and it is almost impossible to prevent it from getting on your camera. If you like, bring a protective cover and UV filter. A brush has proven useful for brushing off sand grains at the end of the day.

Food, warming up, toilet:

Bring everything you need for food and drink. Drinking water can be refilled in the toilets in the heated exhibition/lounge area at the ferry terminal. There are also power outlets and tables for lunch breaks.

Getting to the dunes:

The first dune ferry leaves at 8 a.m. at the beginning of December, and a round trip costs €6. More information here.

Book Recommendations for Nature Lovers

Would you like to learn more about wildlife observation? Then I have three book recommendations for you. You can order the books* from Amazon by clicking on the images. If you buy a book or another article via an affiliate link, I will receive a small commission, and you will help me to continue to fill Wanderlust Motifs with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you.

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Recommendations for further Reading

Der Beitrag Nachwuchs im Winterwind – Kegelrobben auf Helgoland-Düne erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Germany. Between the Baltic Sea and the Bodden lies the Darß – a peninsula that seems tailor-made for nature observation. When the leaves change color in autumn and fog rolls over the meadows, a spectacle begins that fascinates visitors every year: the deer rut. The bellowing of the red deer echoes through the dune forests and across the wide clearings as the mighty animals compete for the does.

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An Autumn Morning on the Darß

It is still cool when I arrive at the beach shortly after six in the morning. The sun is already announcing its arrival over the sea with bright orange colors, and seagulls and crows are searching for their breakfast among the washed-up seaweed. I hurry past them. For me, coffee from my thermos and a roll from yesterday will have to wait until I reach the former emergency harbor of Darßer Ort. The harbor facilities here have since been dismantled, and the long wooden pier is said to be one of the best places on the Darß to photograph deer.

Arriving at the observation platform, I join the other early risers with my camera tripod. The coffee will have to wait. First, I scan the area. Are there any deer to be seen yet? All I can hear is the roar of the sea, blown directly into my ears by the strong east wind. After a few minutes, I see antlers peeking out of the grass through my camera's viewfinder, then the head, shoulders, and torso of a stately deer. It bellows, but I still only hear the wind and the surf of the sea. What a beautiful start to the day. I pour coffee into my mug and unwrap my sandwich.

Moments like these make the Fischland-Darß-Zingst peninsula unique in September. Here, where the forest, Bodden lagoon, and Baltic Sea meet, the deer rut is a beautiful natural phenomenon that can be experienced firsthand. The Darß forest and the dunes at Darßer Ort are one of the few landscapes in Germany where you can experience the animals in the wild so close up – not hidden in dark forests, but right on the coast.

The former Darßer Ort Emergency Harbor

In 1962, a military harbor was built in the beach lake located here. Four years after the national park was founded, the military harbor became the Darßer Ort Emergency Harbor in 1994 and served as a shelter for recreational boats and smaller ships. However, the offshore coastline continued to grow, and the dredging of the shipping channel led to conflicts with the protected area. Eventually, the port facilities were dismantled and left to nature in 2024. Only the access road to the beach lake remains, now leading to a slightly elevated wooden walkway with an excellent view of the deer on the opposite shore.

The Landscape – Forests, Dunes, Water

Formation of the Peninsula

The Fischland-Darß-Zingst peninsula is a young piece of land, formed after the end of the Weichselian glaciation approximately 12,000 years ago by sediment deposits, currents, and storm surges. Where individual islands once lay, wind and water pushed sand together to form headlands. In the 14th century, rivalries with Rostock and Stralsund led to the closure of inlets between the islands, turning Fischland and Darß into a peninsula. During the Baltic Sea storm surge in 1872, the Prerow stream silted up and the island of Zingst also became part of the peninsula in 1874 when the stream was finally filled in. Today, the Darß juts out into the Baltic Sea like a hook, forming a 45-kilometer-long wall between the Baltic Sea and the Bodden waters. At its westernmost end lies Darßer Ort, a headland that continues to be shaped by the sea year after year.

Visitors to the Darß peninsula experience a diversity that is rare in Germany. Coastal forests, windswept dunes, wide beaches, and quiet lagoon shores alternate within a small area. The Darß forest itself covers around 5,800 hectares. At first glance, its mixture of old pine, beech, and English oak trees looks like an ordinary coastal forest. But geological processes have shaped it: shifting dunes cover the forest floor, and ancient storm surges have left behind hollows and depressions where moors have formed.

On the Darßer Ort circular Hiking Trail

After a while, the crowds at the observation platform at the emergency harbor thin out. The deer have also moved on. I pack up and continue on to the entrance of the Darßer Ort circular hiking trail. The six-kilometer trail leads over boardwalks, beaches, and forest paths, through a mosaic of forest, reeds, dunes, the Baltic Sea, and beach lakes. Three more viewing platforms invite visitors to observe deer and birds. I move away from the sea, the surf becomes quieter, and the east wind blows a deep, throaty sound into my ears. The deer are bellowing.

Darßer Ort Lighthouse with the Natureum

Der Rundwanderweg bringt mich bis zum Darßer Ort mit dem 1848 erbauten Leuchtturm und dem Natureum The circular hiking trail takes me to Darßer Ort with its lighthouse, built in 1848, and the

Wind-swept Trees on the West Beach

On the second day, right after watching the deer, I hop on my bike and head to West Beach. The middle path takes me to the bike parking lot behind the dunes. There are only two bikes here, and it's so early in the morning that there's no one else on the beach. I look at the so-called wind-swept trees on the dunes, tall pines whose crowns have been bent to one side toward the land by the constant coastal wind. After a second breakfast on the beach, I take the time to get a little creative with the prism I brought with me.

History in the Shade of the Trees and the Sea Breeze

As early as the Middle Ages, fishermen and farmers used the Darß Forest, driving cattle into it and fetching wood for boats and houses. Numerous beech trees, some of them widely spaced and bizarrely grown, remain from this period when the forest was used as pasture. The Darß Forest was particularly exploited by Danish and French occupiers in the early 18th and 19th centuries. The Danes removed all the old yew trees from the forest to use for interior paneling in Rosenborg and Amalienborg palaces. The heathland left behind after the clearing was reforested by Prussian foresters with fast-growing coniferous species.

In the GDR, Darß became a vacation destination for privileged workers and party officials. The town of Prerow was known as the “Mallorca of the East.” During the high season, the beach campground alone hosted up to 10,000 guests. Today, the campground is operated by Ahoi Camp and is set to be expanded. The opportunity to camp right here in the dunes is something very special and is based on special rights of use and agreements that have been made over time with the state of Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania and the MV Foundation for the Environment and Nature Conservation. Guests are encouraged to always use the existing paths when going to the beach or through the camp and not to walk cross-country through the dunes.

TRAVEL TIP:
If you're still looking for accommodation that really brings you closer to nature, you'll find it at AlohaCamp.
Whether you're exploring the Darß peninsula or the Baltic Sea coast, spending a few days in the Alps, or planning your next stay by a quiet lake, AlohaCamp has special places all over Germany where you can experience nature at its most beautiful.

Vorpommern Bodden Landscape National Park

Since 1990, the region has been part of the Vorpommern Bodden Landscape National Park, which, at 786 km², is the largest national park on the German Baltic Sea coast. At its heart are the Darß Forest and the west coast, where no dykes slow down the dynamics of nature. Here, dunes are allowed to wander, forests plunge into the sea, and beaches disappear. “Let nature be nature” is the motto – and this is exactly what the deer benefit from. The forest offers them cover, the wide Bodden meadows provide food, and the dunes offer peace and quiet.

An important goal of the national park is to protect large mammals such as red deer, which live undisturbed in the extensive forest and dune areas. But the Vorpommersche Boddenlandschaft National Park protects more than just red deer. Over 1,300 plant species and more than 160 breeding bird species have been documented here. In addition to deer, wild boars, foxes, badgers, and, more recently, wolves also live in the region. White-tailed eagles regularly circle above the Bodden, and sanderlings and oystercatchers rest on the beaches. The annual crane migration is particularly impressive: up to 70,000 birds rest between Zingst and Darß in the fall.

The best way to get around is on foot or by bike. However, bikes must be parked at one of the bike parking areas before the circular trail, as they are not allowed here. Horse-drawn carriages run from Prerow to the lighthouse at Darßer Ort, and the Darß Bahn takes hikers to just before the start of the Darßer Ort circular trail near the former emergency harbor.

Invasion of the Jays

It's autumn, the birds are gathering and migrating to their wintering grounds. So I'm not surprised when I see one or two larger flocks. But a photo to identify the species leaves me amazed: jays in large flocks. They fly over me again and again, and I stand there with my mouth open. I have truly never seen anything like this before. On the Nabu website, I quickly learn that this invasion of jays is often associated with high breeding success in their native areas of Scandinavia and subsequent food shortages. These migratory movements can lead far into Central Europe. Most jays migrate back to their breeding grounds the following year.

The Deer – Kings of the Darß Forest

Why do so many deer live here? The answer lies in a combination of protective measures, landscape, and history. As early as the 19th century, the Darß was a popular hunting ground. Grand dukes and later Nazi officials organized driven hunts in the forest. In the GDR, parts of the Darß were declared a state hunting ground, where high-ranking politicians went trophy hunting. After 1990, the situation changed: with the establishment of the national park, traditional hunting was largely abandoned. The red deer were able to reproduce more freely without being thinned out by hunting. Today, several hundred animals live in the national park, and the population is considered stable.

The rutting season in September and October is particularly impressive. During the rut, the deer migrate to the coast and the dunes—an unusual spectacle, as we usually associate the calls of deer with deep forests or remote woodlands. The males butt their antlers against each other, scrape their hooves, and exude their typical scent to impress the females. The bellowing is not only a way of marking their territory, but also a signal to rivals: whoever bellows louder, longer, and deeper demonstrates strength.

There are various ways to experience the deer rut on the Darß.

1. On your own. The best places to do this are the designated observation platforms at the former emergency harbor and along the Darßer Ort circular hiking trail.
2. Among the guided tours, the so-called “deer concerts” are the best known, offered by the National Park Authority and local nature guides.
3. Photo excursions and workshops are also popular with photographers, for example, at the Zingst Photo School..

Myths and Legends

When I want to get to know a new region, I always enjoy researching local myths and legends. I found two for Darß that beautifully reflect the deep connection between the coastal inhabitants and their landscape.

Eine der bekanntesten Erzählungen spricht von den „Hirschgeistern“, die in stürmischen Nächten am Strand erscheinen sollen. Fischer berichteten, sie hätten große, schattenhafte Gestalten gesehen – Hirsche mit leuchtenden Augen und dampfendem Atem, die aus der Brandung aufgetaucht seien. Diese Geister seien keine Bedrohung, sondern Wächter des Waldes, die den Menschen eine Warnung überbrachten: Wer sich in solchen Nächten leichtsinnig aufs Meer wagte, den erwartete Unheil. Manche alten Seefahrer schworen, sie hätten ihr Leben nur dem Erscheinen eines solchen Geist-Hirsches zu verdanken, denn  er habe sie durch ein unerklärliches Gefühl zurück an Land gedrängt.

Other legends surround the sunken villages along the coast. During heavy storms, the ringing of bells can be heard from the waves—bells that once belonged to churches that have long since been swallowed by the sea. One often-told example is the village of Vineta, which, according to folklore, sank not far from here. Its inhabitants are said to have incurred the wrath of the sea through greed and arrogance. Today, some locals believe that the roar of the waves against the groynes sometimes actually sounds like the muffled ringing of bells.

Ending the Evening with Deer

It's my last evening on the Darß peninsula. I find it difficult to choose between my two favorite observation platforms. In the end, I decide on the jetty at the former emergency harbor. This is where my deer observations began with my morning coffee. I wrap myself up and pull my scarf a little tighter around my neck. Standing still in the wind is tough, and the deer are taking their time today. But my patience is rewarded in the end, and the soft evening light shows the stag and his ladies from a particularly beautiful side.

Book Recommendations for Nature Lovers

Want to learn more about nature? Then I have three book recommendations for you. You can order the books* from Amazon by clicking on the images. If you purchase a book or other item via an affiliate link, I will receive a small commission and you will help me to continue filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. This does not make the product any more expensive for you.

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you want to go birdwatching right away? Then check out my article about Birdwatching in the Pond Landscape Linum and about Neuwerk Island - Birdwatching in the Hamburg Wadden Sea .

Der Beitrag Zwischen Hirschen und Meer – der Darß zur Brunftzeit erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Germany. The cries of the birds echo across the Red Cliff like a wild concert. Below, the North Sea rages, while above, white silhouettes circle in the wind. I am standing on the highlands of Heligoland, Germany's only offshore island, looking out at the famous Lummenfelsen rock while northern gannets circle above me. Right next to me, just a few inches from the barrier, the large white birds sit on their nests. It is the end of May. While some gannets still cradle and warm their single egg with their large feet, other breeding pairs already have chicks in their nests. Some are tiny, others are already so big that the nest is getting crowded.

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The Kings of the Cliffs: Northern Gannets

They are impossible to miss: the majestic northern gannets (Morus bassanus, sailing over the sea with a wingspan of almost two meters. Their snow-white bodies, black wing tips, and yellowish heads make them striking creatures. Heligoland is the only place in Germany where these large seabirds breed – and only since 1991. There are now over 1,500 breeding pairs.

Northern gannets do not reach sexual maturity until they are about five years old. Once they have mated, they remain together for life. They also return to the same nesting site year after year and continue to expand it. This results in impressive nests that can weigh more than 50 kilograms over the years, with a high proportion of non-biodegradable plastic.

Northern gannets form strong pair bonds. Every time they return to the nest, the partners greet each other affectionately: they rub their beaks together and preen each other's feathers – a touching sight that offers great photo opportunities.

Tips for Nature Observers and Photographers

All seabird species that nest on the cliffs come to the island only to breed and raise their chicks. They spend most of their lives on the open sea. The best time to observe the seabirds breeding is between May and July. Mid-June offers a very special highlight: the “loon dive.” This is when the young guillemots, which are not yet able to fly, jump off the cliffs into the water. The Jordsand Association offers special guided tours at this time of year.

The “guillemot rock” can be visited via the developed cliff-edge path. Binoculars and a telephoto lens are useful for seeing the details of the more distant nests of the guillemots and razorbills. The gannet nests extend right up to the fence at the edge of the path, where you can observe the birds at close range. Photographers can actually use a wide-angle lens here and experiment with new perspectives.

As always with wildlife photography, it pays to bring time and patience. This is the only way to recognize the different behaviors of the animals and have the opportunity to experience them at different times of the day or in different weather conditions. For example, the colony behaves very differently in windy conditions than in stagnant heat. They are much more active in windy conditions, while in hot weather, they hold their open beaks up, pant, and no longer warm their chicks. Then you can see chicks of all sizes. The wind direction also plays a role in photo opportunities, because the gannets always land into the wind. When the wind is blowing onshore, they stand above the observation platforms for quite a while and can be photographed very well in flight. But be careful, you can quickly get white spots on your clothes.

What's more, if you have plenty of time and space on your memory card, Lummenfelsen on Heligoland offers great opportunities for creative photography or simply trying something new:

• High-key shots during the glaring midday light
• Low-key shots and backlit shots
• Detailed images of feathers, eyes, claws
• Multiple exposures
• Empty space
• Photographing through grass or bushes or partially covering the lens with something (flowers, feathers, prisms)

Bring enough drinks and something to eat. It's a good 800 meters to the nearest restaurant or Edeka supermarket, and also to the nearest restroom. Don't forget sunscreen and wind protection, because there is no shade and nowhere to take shelter on the cliff-edge path. Only in the neighboring meadow can you find some wind protection in the hollows of the terrain.

Here are a few of my favorite pictures:

Plastic Waste in the Seabird Colony

Helgoland is unique. Located 60 kilometers from the mainland, the island lies in the middle of the fish-rich currents of the German Bight—a hotspot for marine biodiversity. Here, seabirds find food in the form of shoals of fish and crustaceans. The red sandstone cliffs offer them a safe breeding ground, free from land predators. It is precisely because Helgoland is so isolated that Germany's only seabird colony has been able to thrive here.

Despite the beauty of the Lummenfelsen, Helgoland also has a tragic side. The northern gannets build their nests from natural materials such as algae, seaweed, and tufts of grass – but unfortunately also from plastic debris and fragments of nets. I can see into the nests from close up. I can clearly make out the orange and blue fibers of polypropylene ropes, remnants of fishing nets, and plastic strings. What looks like colorful decoration is deadly: time and again, adult and young birds get tangled up in it. The nets cut deep into their flesh or lead to an agonizing death by strangulation or starvation. Many seabirds also mistake plastic for food and feed it to their chicks, which then starve to death with full stomachs.

According to expert estimates, around 60 northern gannets and 100 guillemots die each year on Helgoland as a result of fishing net debris. The consequences range from injuries and organ failure to massive losses in breeding success. Intervention is usually not possible because if one were to approach the nests to rescue an animal, neighboring chicks would flee in panic and possibly fall to their deaths.

Other Species inhabiting the Cliffs: Guillemots, Razorbills, Kittiwakes, and Fulmars

The Guillemot (Uria aalge) is the namesake of Lummenfelsen. From a distance, they resemble small penguins, although they are capable of flight. They lay their eggs directly on the rocks without building a nest. The pear-shaped shape of the egg prevents it from rolling down. The colony is crowded, with loud calls and frantic fluttering. But amid the sounds of life, I also see several dead guillemots dangling in nylon nets at the edge of the cliff. The birds have become entangled in the plastic fibers and now hang as a silent memorial just a few meters from the path.

A little away from the guillemots, a few razorbills (Alca torda) nest. They are easily recognizable by their deep black color and the striking white stripe along their beaks. Razorbills have been breeding on Helgoland since the 1980s, using small piles of stones as nests. Kittiwakes (Rissa tridactyla) also belong to the breeding community on Helgoland's cliffs. In Germany, they breed exclusively on Helgoland and build small nests in sheltered niches, often made of algae and grass. But they also use plastic when they find it. Among the gulls, I also see a few fulmars (Fulmarus glacialis), elegant North Sea sailors with gray wings and a booming call.

Protective Measures for the Seabirds

Helgoland and its bird cliffs are under strict protection. The Lummenfelsen is part of a nature reserve, and visitors are guided along fixed paths; feeding the animals, drones, and climbing are prohibited. Research stations such as the “Institute for Bird Research” and initiatives such as the “Jordsand” association are committed to monitoring, litter collection campaigns, and education. Some of the net traps on the cliffs are removed regularly — a laborious but important contribution.

In addition, the EU is committed to reducing plastic waste and “ghost nets” – lost or deliberately discarded fishing nets that continue to catch and kill fish – as part of its Marine Strategy Framework Directive. However, as long as fishing waste and other plastic waste continue to end up in the sea, the problem will remain acute. Everyone can help – whether through plastic-free consumption, donations, or education.

Practical Information

Getting there

In summer, you can travel to Helgoland with the Halunderjet operated by FRS-Helgoline from Hamburg or Cuxhaven. The Cassen-Eils shipping company operates services from Cuxhaven, Bremerhaven, Büsum, and Langeoog. In winter, only the Cassen Eils shipping company's boat operates from Cuxhaven. From November onwards, travel to Helgoland is only possible from Cuxhaven with the Cassein Eils shipping company.

I traveled from Hamburg to Helgoland on the Halunderjet. The ship even had USB ports at the seats and a snack bar. At the landing stages, you can book a luggage service for a few euros. Then your luggage is taken directly from the ship to your accommodation. I had my bag taken to the Düne campsite. It took a while, so I used the time to take my first walk on the beach.

Accommodation

I definitely recommend staying on Helgoland for several days. I had planned three days for the northern gannets, and due to varying weather conditions (wind, wind direction, temperature), the behavior of the northern gannets was different each time.

Accommodation on the main island is extremely expensive. The best chance of getting good prices is to book very early (many months in advance) or to get a room at the youth hostel early on. If you want to book your accommodation on Booking.com , I would receive a small commission if you book via this affiliate link, and you would be helping me to run Fernweh-Motive. It won't cost you any more.

If you missed out on booking early but don't want to wait until next year, you can pitch your tent on the neighboring island of Düne. You'll need sand pegs and extra guy ropes, as it can get very windy. Protect your camera equipment from the sand. There is a charging station for cell phones and camera batteries at the campsite. However, the ten sockets are usually occupied and not all of them work. There are additional sockets in the lounge building at the harbor. Here you can sit comfortably and eat the snacks you brought with you. There is no kitchen at the campsite. So I was glad I brought my stove, which ensured my coffee supply in the morning.

One disadvantage of staying overnight on the dune is that you are tied to the dune ferry schedule and therefore miss the early and late light at Lummenfelsen. Tickets for the round trip cost €6 (as of 2025). One advantage is that you are close to the gray seals, which sometimes lie on the beach right in front of the campsite.

Luggage Storage

On the main island, there is free luggage storage at the Dünefähre ferry ticket office.

Food

On the main island, there is an Edeka supermarket and numerous restaurants in both the upper and lower regions. However, many of them do not open until the ships with day visitors arrive in the late morning/around noon. There are two restaurants and a small shop in the airport building on the dune.

Other Activities in the Area

• Other Activities in the Area
• Themed trails around the island for your own discoveries (history, culture, nature, architecture)
• Guided tours: island tour, nature tours, bunker tour, dune tour, lobster station, tour of the fishing garden of the Institute for Bird Research, historical urban tour
• Helgoland Museum with original replicas of lobster huts and lighthouse
• Bunker tunnels in the lowlands
• Watching seals on the neighboring island of Düne

Book Recommendations for Birdwatchers

Want to delve deeper into the hobby of birdwatching? Then I have three book recommendations for you. You can order the books* from Amazon by clicking on the images. If you purchase a book or other item via an affiliate link, I will receive a small commission and you will help me to continue filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be any more expensive for you.

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you want to go birdwatching right away? Then check out my article about Birdwatching in the Pond Landscape Linum and about Neuwerk Island - Birdwatching in the Hamburg Wadden Sea .

Der Beitrag Helgoland Vogelfotografie – Basstölpel und andere Seevögel am Lummenfelsen erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Germany. In the middle of the Hamburg Wadden Sea National Park, around 100 kilometers from Hamburg City Hall, lies the small island of Neuwerk. Neuwerk is a fascinating birdwatching destination, especially in May, when the weather slowly gets warmer and life in the coastal landscape blossoms. This month marks the breeding season for many species, while at the same time, some migratory birds stop off on the island on their way to their Nordic breeding grounds.

Neuwerk: a Habitat between Sea and Marsh

Neuwerk is only about 3 square kilometers in size, but it is of inestimable ecological value. The island is surrounded by extensive salt marshes, tidal creeks, and mudflats. The tides set the rhythm: Twice a day, the mudflats disappear under water, twice a day they are exposed. This dynamic creates ideal conditions for a variety of bird species, such as the oystercatcher, avocet, and spoonbill. The island itself is characterized by extensively used grassland, old terps, a historic lighthouse, and an open, wide landscape in which the gaze can wander - until it catches sight of the next flock of birds. Or one of the many horses that live here, more than the island's population.

Only around 32 people live on the island on a permanent basis, mainly from tourism. Every year, Neuwerk attracts around 120,000 visitors who appreciate the peace and quiet, walks in the sea breeze, and the vastness of the mudflats and sea.

The Hamburg Wadden Sea

The Hamburg Wadden Sea is the smallest of the three German Wadden Sea National Parks. It comprises the island of Neuwerk, the uninhabited island of Scharhörn, and the island of Nigehörn, all of which are subject to strict protection regulations. The Hamburg Wadden Sea National Park, founded in 1990, serves to preserve valuable habitats characterized by tides, salt marshes, tidal creeks, and mudflats. Due to its ecological importance, the Wadden Sea is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and World Heritage Site. The national park is divided into two zones: zone 1 is reserved for nature, while zone 2 is for sustainable living and economic activity.

Bird Diversity on Neuwerk: Breeding Birds & Migrants

TIP: Before you go birdwatching, I recommend a visit to the Neuwerk National Park House. Here you will not only learn lots of interesting facts about the habitat, but also get tips for birdwatching and can take a small map of Neuwerk with you.

So far, over 300 bird species have been recorded in the national park. There is always something to observe or even discover, and Neuwerk is a great birdwatching destination at any time of year. However, thousands of brent and barnacle geese rest on the island during the “goose weeks” during the main migration period. During this time, additional events are held on Neuwerk in April and May on topics relating to geese, bird migration, and nature conservation. May is a very good month for birdwatching on Neuwerk. In addition to the migratory birds, numerous breeding birds are already busy incubating their eggs or even rearing their young, including oystercatchers, avocets, redshanks, various gull species such as the black-headed gull and herring gull, spoonbills, sandwich terns, arctic terns and common terns, eider ducks and greylag geese.

At the same time, some migratory birds are still on Neuwerk, stopping off on the island on their way to the Arctic breeding grounds. Brent geese, barnacle geese, and shelducks are resting on the salt marshes, sometimes in large flocks. Bar-tailed godwits, knots, curlews, dunlins, greenshanks, and other waders use the mudflats to forage.

Excursion to the Bird Island of Scharhörn

The island of Scharhörn is a strictly protected bird sanctuary. Anyone wishing to visit the island must register with the island's bird warden before setting off on the mudflat hike. The approximately two-hour, seven-kilometer hike is only possible at low tide. The route is marked with bush pegs and shows the safest route through the open mudflats. On Scharhörn itself, there are no fixed paths, no houses, no tourist infrastructure - just a dune island surrounded by salt marshes where thousands of seabirds breed. More information can be found here. The national park administration, the Jordsand association, and mudflat guides offer guided hikes. Wadden wagons also travel to Scharhörn by arrangement. Information on this can be obtained from the wagon operators. here. Die Nationalpark-Verwaltung, der Verein Jordsand und Wattführer bieten geführte Wanderungen an. Nach Vereinbarung fahren auch Wattwagen nach Scharhörn. Informationen hierzu gibt es bei den Wattwagenbetreibern.

Not to be missed: the Neuwerk Lighthouse

The Neuwerk lighthouse is not only the most important landmark on the island of Neuwerk, but is also the oldest surviving structure in Hamburg and the oldest secular building on the German coast. It was built between 1300 and 1310 as a defensive tower to protect the mouth of the Elbe from pirates and plunderers and to safeguard Hamburg's important trade via the waterway. Over the centuries, the tower served not only as a defense tower, but also as a refuge during storm surges and as a landmark for shipping.

On December 20, 1814, the tower was officially converted into a lighthouse. Initially, the beacon was powered by a 5-wick kerosene lamp. In 1942, a switch was made to electricity, with the light being focused using 21 parabolic mirrors arranged in a circle. The lighthouse has been out of service as an official navigation mark since February 2014, but is still operated by the Hamburg Port Authority as a so-called “private light”.

Today, Neuwerk Lighthouse is a listed building and a popular excursion destination. Visitors can climb the 138 steps to the viewing platform and enjoy an impressive view over the island and the Wadden Sea. You can even spend the night in the historic lighthouse.

As a Guest in Nature - Visiting Rules

We are only guests in nature. The following applies: Leave no traces except your footprints. Don't disturb or destroy anything. Quite simple, isn't it? If you want to know more, take a look at my article “Leave No Trace!” . The following applies to your visit to the Wadden Sea National Park:

• Stay on the marked paths.
• In the foreshore (the area outside the dykes), birds breed in the meadows. Do not go cross-country, watch out for nests, and stay on the paths.
• Dogs must be kept on a lead outside the dykes.
• Keep your distance from the animals.
• No drones, kites or other flying objects are permitted in Zone 1 of the national park.
• Do you see an animal in distress? Report it to the Jordsand Association or the National Park Station.

Getting there: on foot, by Wagon, by Boat or on Horseback

The island can be reached depending on the tide - either on a mudflat walk with an experienced guide or on your own (approx. 2.5-3 hours) or by horse-drawn carriage (the “Wadden Wagon”). During high tide, the MS Flipper sails from Cuxhaven to Neuwerk. Information on departures can be found on the website of the Cassen Eils shipping company.

I traveled both routes with the horse-drawn carriage from The old Fisher House and really enjoyed the 1.5-hour ride. As you don't move around much on the carriage, I was very happy to have a warm jacket, scarf, and hat.

Mudflat hiking from Sahlenburg to Neuwerk

A mudflat hike from Sahlenburg (Cuxhaven) to the island of Neuwerk is a unique nature experience, but one that requires careful preparation and observance of safety rules.

The route is around 11 kilometers long and takes around 2.5 to 3 hours at a normal walking pace. The exact duration depends on various factors, including personal fitness, the weather, and the nature of the seabed. Sometimes you have to wade through water for longer stretches.

Safety first: Rules for a safe Mudflat Hike

Find out about the tides, the weather, and the planned route before you go into the mudflats! Otherwise, your life could be in danger! There is a rescue station in Sahlenburg where you can get the necessary information.

• Prefer guided tours: Due to the dangers of tidal flats, fog, and rapidly rising water, mudflat walks should be undertaken with local guides. For up-to-date information and bookings for guided mudflat walks, you can contact local providers such as Wattwandern Neuwerk..
• Note the weather conditions: In fog, thunderstorms or storms, entering the mudflats is life-threatening.
• Know the tides: Start the hike about two hours before the lowest water level to avoid being surprised by the tide. Don't set off if you are too late!
• In Zone 1 of the national park, you are only allowed to hike on the mudflats and ride horses along the marked paths.
• Emergency precautions: Find out about rescue beacons and emergency numbers. Carry a fully charged cell phone with you.
• First aid kit: Take it with you! If you walk barefoot, you will quickly cut yourself on the shells.

The right Equipment and Clothing

• Footwear: Sturdy, closed shoes with sturdy soles are ideal to avoid cuts from shells. For example, sneakers with socks or special wading or neoprene shoes are suitable. We do not recommend rubber boots (they will fill up as the water is often deep), sandals, or walking barefoot.
• Clothing: Wear weatherproof, breathable clothing. A windproof and waterproof jacket and a warm sweater are also necessary in summer. Quick-drying shorts or light trousers/leggings are suitable. Pants must be able to be pushed up above the knees.
• Sun protection: The mudflats reflect the sun's rays strongly. Sunscreen with a high sun protection factor, headgear, and sunglasses are therefore important.
• Take along: Pack a towel, drinks, and snacks.

TIP:
Are you looking for binoculars? I am very happy with the Zeiss Terra ED 8×42* . They are handy and even waterproof. Perfect for birdwatching on the island of Neuwerk when the weather is a bit rougher.
(Affiliate link to Amazon)

Riding on Neuwerk and in the Wadden Sea

Horse riding on Neuwerk and in the surrounding Wadden Sea is an integral part of island life. Guided rides across the extensive salt marshes or through the mudflats are particularly popular - at low tide you can even venture on horseback to the mainland or the island of Scharhörn.

The special climatic conditions, the salty air and the mineral-rich mudflats make Neuwerk a beneficial retreat not only for people but also for horses. In fact, the island is regarded by connoisseurs as a kind of “health resort for horses”: many riders bring their animals to the island in summer to relax. The species-appropriate husbandry on spacious paddocks, the fresh sea air, and the exercise on soft mudflats promote health, especially in the case of respiratory diseases or joint problems. Neuwerk thus offers a rare combination of nature experience, riding pleasure, and veterinary recovery.

Accommodation and Restaurants on Neuwerk

Despite its small size, Neuwerk offers several places to stay overnight, such as the “Alte Fischerhaus”, Haus Seeblick, the “Nige Hus” inn or the “Hus achtern Diek”. If you prefer a more rustic experience, you can also book into the hay hotel or pitch your tent on the meadow at the hotels. The hotels serve home-style cooking and regional dishes. There is a small island store and a restaurant in front of the Leutturm.

Book Recommendations for Birdwatchers

Want to delve deeper into the hobby of birdwatching? Then I have three book recommendations for you. You can order the books* from Amazon by clicking on the images. If you purchase a book or other item via an affiliate link, I will receive a small commission and you will help me to continue filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be any more expensive for you.

Do you have any comments or suggestions about my article? If yes, then write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you want to go birdwatching right away? Then check out my article about Birdwatching in the Pond Landscape Linum and about Birdwatching at Myvatn in Iceland .

Der Beitrag Insel Neuwerk – Birdwatching im Hamburger Wattenmeer erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Germany. Recently, I caught myself out: I know more about poisonous animals in the jungle than I do about poisonous animals in my home country of Germany. But are there any poisonous animals here at all? In fact, there are quite a few. Germany's diverse landscape offers suitable habitats for a wide variety of animals, including poisonous ones. Some introduced species also find a place where they can reproduce undisturbed. In addition, there are numerous other poisonous animal species in Europe (this will be a separate article), for which the ongoing climate change is increasingly opening the doors. It is only a matter of time.

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links.

Better to learn before than suffer afterwards!

So what does this mean for us who like to be out and about? Clearly, we need to inform ourselves. We need to be proactive. The same applies when we travel to another country. Researching poisonous or dangerous animals - and also poisonous plants - is part of planning a trip. And we have to do this again and again, because our world is changing.

In the following article, I have compiled information about the poisonous animals currently found in Germany, possible symptoms after a bite, sting, or other contact, and the most common first aid measures. This basic knowledge should help you get started with your own in-depth research before your tour or trip. From here on, it's up to you to build up your own knowledge and skills and thus expand your own comfort zone.

I wrote this article as a follow-up to a trip to Indonesia. The night-time encounter with a huge spider in my tent and a poisonous green snake (which luckily wasn't in my tent) left a lasting impression. At the time, I had no idea what I would have done if I had been bitten. This ignorance didn't feel good, and will definitely not happen to me again.

For further learning and practical training, I can recommend the Wilderness First Aid courses at the Guide Academy Europe and the website from San Erlangen. If you are out and about with your dog, you will find lots of information on the First Aid for Dogs website. If you know what a bite looks like and how first aid works, you can act quickly in an emergency and prevent worse things from happening – whether to yourself or to fellow hikers.

Haftungsausschluss. Die Inhalte dieses Artikels sind ausschließlich zu Informationszwecken bestimmt und stellen in keiner Weise einen Ersatz für eigene tiefergehende Recherche, professionelle Beratungen oder Erste-Hilfe-Kurse dar.

How do you avoid being bitten or stung by poisonous Animals?

There are a few strategies to avoid coming into contact with animal venom. First of all: learn what the animal looks like, how it behaves, and where it lives.

• Don't touch animals, don't stalk them, don't harass them
• Don't reach out blindly or walk barefoot anywhere
• Keep your tent and bags closed
• Don't lay your clothes on the ground
• Shake out your shoes and clothes before putting them on
• Sturdy shoes, long clothes
• Mosquito nets also protect you from poisonous animals

Poisonous Snakes in Germany

Germany is home to two venomous snakes, the adder and the asp. For most people, a bite is not life-threatening, but anyone affected should seek medical help as soon as possible. Children, the elderly, pregnant women, and sick people often have more severe reactions, as do people who have been bitten on areas of the body other than the arms or legs.

In individual cases, people can have an allergic reaction to the injected proteins and suffer a life-threatening anaphylactic shock. Medications such as ACE inhibitors or beta blockers can aggravate a possible allergic reaction to the snake venom and trigger an allergic shock.

Dogs are particularly at risk because they like to sniff in bushes or piles of stones, which is where snakes often rest. A bite can be life-threatening for them if it is not recognized and dealt with quickly.

Adder

• Appearance: The adder grows up to 90 cm long and usually has a dark zigzag pattern on a lighter background, but it can also be completely black.
• Habitat: Moors, meadows, forest edges. The preferred habitat is cool and damp. There must be sufficient hiding places, sunny spots and shade from the wind. It is particularly active in the rain and on hot and humid days.
• Effects: The venom of the adder destroys tissue, breaks down blood, and leads to coagulation disorders. A bite is rarely life-threatening for healthy adults, but it can be painful and cause strong reactions. Bites can be dangerous in the event of an allergic reaction or for children, as well as sick and elderly people. Around 30% of bites are so-called dry bites where no venom is released. Only 10-15% of the bites registered each year are classified as serious. Defensive bites often only use half the amount of venom, in contrast to prey bites. Around 10-15 % of the bites registered each year are classified as serious

Asp viper

• Appearance: Similar to the adder, length up to 70 cm. Their coloration varies between light grey, brown, and black depending on their sex and living conditions. A darker, wavy band or zigzag pattern on the back.
• Habitat: Very small populations in the southern Black Forest. The Aspis viper is extremely thermophilic and prefers warm, dry, and stony habitats such as quarries or boulder fields, or gravel areas on slopes or riverbanks with a more southerly orientation.
• Effects: Its venom is similar to that of the adder, but stronger and slightly neurotoxic.

Possible Symptoms after a Bite from an Adder or Aspis Viper

• Mild symptoms: severe pain, swelling at the bite site, nausea, vomiting, increased pulse rate.
• Moderately severe symptoms: swelling spreads, edema, inflammation and thickening of the lymph nodes and lymph channels, diarrhea, pallor, drop in blood pressure, cramp-like pain in the abdominal area.
• Severe symptoms: Swelling can affect the whole body, repeated circulatory collapse, bluish skin discoloration, clouding of consciousness, unconsciousness and coma

Most common First Aid Measures

• Immobilize the bite site and keep it elevated
• Avoid physical exertion to slow the spread of the venom
• Remove tight-fitting clothing, jewelry, etc. (due to possible swelling)
• DO NOT cool the bite site, DO NOT cauterize, DO NOT suction, DO NOT cut open, DO NOT bandage, DO NOT pressure bandage!
• Drink plenty of water.
• If necessary, use any allergy medication available to the bitten person
• Get medical help as soon as possible
• Note the time of the bite

Sources: e.g. deximed.de, Snakes in Germany

Early in the morning, the Section 39 of the Federal Nature Conservation Act (BNatSchG) places wild animals under general protection. Accordingly, it is prohibited to deliberately disturb wild animals or to catch, injure, or kill them without reasonable cause, as well as to impair or destroy wild animal habitats without reasonable cause. Section 44 BNatSchG describes further rules for specially protected species. Which animals these are in Germany can be found in Annex 1 of the Federal Species Protection Ordinance (BArtSchV) (the oak processionary moth is considered a pest and is not protected). In this context, it is also interesting to take a look at the catalog of fines on the subject of animal protection. There are not only figures here, but also interesting articles to read.

Poisonous Spiders in Germany

In Germany, spider bites are very rare and generally harmless. There is no native spider whose bite would be life-threatening for healthy people, but some can cause unpleasant symptoms, similar to a bee or wasp sting. If you have allergies or an immune deficiency, you should be more careful and consult a doctor if necessary.

Time and again, scorpions, spiders, or other creatures enter Germany unnoticed in holidaymakers' luggage or, for example, in banana boxes or via the plant trade. In this way, new, sometimes highly poisonous species can also colonize Germany. Even the black widow has already arrived in Germany on a cargo ship. You simply have to remain vigilant and keep yourself informed.

Yellow sac spider – Neozoon

• Origin: South-eastern Europe, spreading northwards due to climate change
• Appearance: The front body of the up to 1.5 cm large spider is plain red-orange, the abdomen is yellowish to olive green in color.
• Lives in dry, warm meadows with tall grass, especially in southern regions.
• Venomous effect: similar to a bee sting. Rarely: Blistering or necrosis.

Garden spider

• Very common spider in gardens and forests.
• Appearance: Between 5 and 18 mm in size. The body consists of a head, thorax, and abdomen, and is light brown, reddish brown to black in color. Light spots on the abdomen have the shape of a cross
• Venomous effect: Only local reaction in sensitive individuals (itching, slight swelling).

Nosferatu spider – Neozoon

• Origin: originally the Mediterranean region, since the 2000s increasingly in Germany, especially in homes in southwest Germany.
• Appearance: With outstretched legs up to 5 cm long. The body is yellowish-white in color, the legs yellow-grey to dark grey with black stripes.
• Venomous effect: comparable to a bee sting.

Brown recluse spider – Neozoon

• Origin: Midwest and southern USA
• Appearance: up to 2 cm in size, brown or yellowish, and a dark line across the hind body
• Giftwirkung: in den meisten Fällen lediglich zu rote Pusteln. An der Bissstelle kann das Gewebe absterben (Nekrose). Weitere mögliche Symptome: Kopfschmerzen, Übelkeit, Erbrechen, Krämpfe und Muskelschmerzen. Auch Todesfälle kommen vor.

Possible Symptoms after a Spider Bite in Germany

• Local: Stinging pain at the bite site (short-lived), redness, swelling, itching, or burning. Rarely: Blistering or small necrosis in the case of a thorn finger bite.
• General: Headache, nausea, muscle or limb pain, fever-like symptoms (usually only with allergic or psychogenic reaction - “spider fear”)

Most common First-Aid Measures Spider Bite

• Clean wound with soap and water or disinfectant
• Cool, e.g. cool pack or cold cloth, 10-15 minutes
• Observe bite - document swelling and redness
• Keep calm - in most cases the bite heals without any problems
• See a doctor if: Persistent or increasing pain/swelling, signs of infection (pus, severe redness, fever), allergic reactions (shortness of breath, circulatory problems, swelling of face or neck)

Source: e.g. Medinstruct

Poisonous Insects in Germany

Insect bites pose serious health risks, especially for allergy sufferers. In addition, climate change is bringing another issue into focus: more and more new, potentially dangerous insect species are migrating from more southern regions and establishing themselves in this country. The same applies to spiders and other animal species. Alongside poisonous plants, insect bites and stings (including mosquitoes and ticks) are one of the biggest threats to our outdoor activities.

Wasps

Around 20 deaths from bee, wasp, and hornet stings are reported in Germany every year. For allergy sufferers, a single sting can trigger an anaphylactic shock and be life-threatening! It is therefore important to know and be able to apply the symptoms and first aid measures, to be aware of any allergies your fellow hikers may have, and to know where to keep an EpiPen.

Wasp-like insects (wasps, bees, hornets, bumblebees, neozoon: Asian hornet) all have similar but not identical venoms. Their sting venom contains a mixture of proteins, enzymes, and biochemically active substances that trigger pain, inflammation, and in some cases allergic reactions. The immune system does not react to the venom itself, but to certain protein components.

Possible Symptoms of Stings

• Normal reaction: severe swelling at the injection site, pain, burning or severe itching
• Allergic reaction: swelling of the face, neck and hands, nausea, difficulty swallowing, skin rash all over the body (hives), dizziness, weakness.
• Anaphylactic shock: acute shortness of breath, drop in blood pressure, rapid heartbeat, in the worst case, organ failure

Most common First Aid Measures

• Scrape away the stinger, if still present. When pulling it out, the venom gland remaining on the sting can be squeezed and further venom injected into the sting.
• Stay calm, reduce movement
• Cool externally (e.g. with ice pack, damp cloth - 10-15 minutes)
• Sting in the throat: cool internally by drinking cold water or sucking ice cubes (for conscious patients)
• Home remedy: apply a slice of onion, honey, aloe vera, vinegar or lemon water, crushed ribwort
• Antihistamine gel or cortisone ointment for itching; take an antihistamine (if available and tolerated)

In case of allergic reactions:

• Call an emergency doctor (112)
• Keep the person sitting upright (shortness of breath) and loosen tight clothing
• Use an adrenaline auto-injector (e.g. EpiPen) or support the stung person when using it
• Place the person in the recovery position if unconscious

Source: Malteser

Oil beetle

• Occurrence: Dry, flower-rich meadows and forest edges
• Poison: Cantharidin - a strong skin and mucous membrane poison. Beetles do not bite or sting, but release their toxins through the skin. In case of danger, oil beetles can secrete small droplets on their leg joints that look like oil droplets and serve as a defense against predators.
• Effect: Redness, blisters, and severe irritation or inflammation can occur on contact with the skin. It helps to wash your hands thoroughly after contact.

Interesting to know: Cantharidin, obtained from the oil beetle species Spanish fly, was already used as a sexual enhancer in ancient times. It irritates the urinary tract, which can cause an erection, but it does not increase sexual desire. It can lead to prolonged lovemaking but also to a painful permanent erection, liver poisoning, circulatory collapse, and kidney failure. This is because Spanish fly is easily overdosed. Just 30 mg is fatal, and the small death of orgasm can easily be followed by the big death of cantharidin.

Symptoms after swallowing an oil beetle

After ingestion, the cantharidin contained in the oil beetle can cause severe symptoms of poisoning. Typical symptoms are

• Burning in the mouth and throat, nausea, vomiting, abdominal cramps, bloody diarrhea, dizziness, circulatory problems
• In severe cases: Kidney failure

Most common First Aid Measures

• Do not induce vomiting!
• Rinse out mouth, but do not give milk or food.
• Call for medical help immediately
• Save beetle remains (if possible) for later identification.
• Keep calm and keep the affected person calm to avoid circulatory strain.

In Germany, there are no highly poisonous ant species as known from tropical regions. Nevertheless, there are some native or introduced species whose bites or chemical secretions can be irritating or allergenic to humans. Future risks include the immigration of new, tropical species such as the pharaoh ant and the fire ant. Climate change increases the likelihood that these extremely painful, stinging, and allergenic species will also gain a foothold in Germany.

Red wood ant

• Occurrence: Forests throughout Germany.
• Behavior: Aggressive in nest defense.
• Toxicity: No poisonous sting, but it injects formic acid into the bite wound.
• Danger to humans: Irritation of the skin, allergic reactions in sensitive individuals. Scratched bites can lead to secondary infections.

Black trail ant

• Occurrence: Very common in gardens, parks and settlements.
• Toxicity: Hardly dangerous. Can bite, but only secretes small amounts of formic acid.
• Danger to humans: Mostly harmless, occasionally itching on sensitive skin.

Oak processionary moth

Anyone out and about in parks and forests will be familiar with the signs and information boards warning of the oak processionary moth. This refers to the caterpillar of a gray butterfly with a wingspan of 25 mm. Only the caterpillars are dangerous to humans. These grow up to 5 cm long and have a dark, broad dorsal line and white hairs. They live in nests that look like spider webs. In the evening and at night, they move in colonies in long processions across the trees or along the ground in search of food. It is best not to get too close to these little animals. A picnic under an oak tree? It's worth taking a close, scrutinizing look upwards.. Sie leben in Nestern, die wie Spinnweben aussehen. Abends und nachts wandern sie in Kolonien als lange Prozessionen auf der Suche nach Nahrung über die Bäume oder auch am Boden entlang. Diesen Tierchen kommt man besser nicht zu nahe. Ein Picknick unter einem Eichenbaum? Da lohnt sich ein genauer, prüfender Blick nach oben.

• Origin: Originally in southern Europe, spread further north due to climate change
• Danger: The caterpillars carry microscopic hairs containing the nettle toxin thaumetopoein. These hairs break off easily, float in the air, and stick to skin, clothing, or animal fur. The stinging hairs remain poisonous for several years, even in old nests or on the ground.
• Occurrence: Especially in warm regions with many oak trees

Symptoms after contact with the stinging hairs

• Skin: Severe itching, wheals, redness (similar to hives), burning, rash (usually after 1-8 hours)
• Respiratory tract (after inhalation of the hairs): Irritating cough, sore throat, difficulty swallowing, shortness of breath, bronchitis-like symptoms, in severe cases: Asthma attacks
• Eyes & mucous membranes: redness, tearing, burning, conjunctivitis
• Allergic reactions possible: swelling (e.g. lips, face), fever, circulatory problems. Very rare: anaphylactic shock

Most common First Aid Measures

• Change clothes immediately - preferably take them off outside, then take a shower
• Shower skin thoroughly, wash hair - do not rub! (also irritates)
• Wash contaminated clothing separately
• Do not scratch to avoid skin damage and infection
• Antihistamine or cortisone ointment for severe itching
• In case of shortness of breath, eye involvement or allergic reaction: See a doctor immediately!

Mosquitoes and Ticks

Mosquitoes and ticks are not poisonous animals per se. However, as they can transmit a variety of sometimes serious diseases and as they are almost always present during outdoor activities, I have included them in my list.

Tropische Mücken wie die Asiatische Tigermücke und die Asiatische Buschmücke breiten sich aufgrund klimatischer Veränderungen zunehmend in Deutschland aus. Sie können gefährliche Krankheiten übertragen, wie etwa das Denguefieber, Chikungunya-, West-Nil- oder das Zika-Virus. Eine solche Vektorübertragung ist bislang in Deutschland nicht beobachtet worden, aber das Risiko steigt. Zecken können Borreliose und FSME übertragen. FSME ist die Abkürzung für Frühsommer-Meningoenzephalitis, eine Infektionskrankheit, die eine Entzündung von Gehirn, Hirnhäuten und/oder Rückenmark auslösen kann. Auch bei den Zecken gibt es Neozooen: die tropische Hyalomma-Zecke wurde inzwischen auch in Deutschland nachgewiesen. Sie gilt als potenzieller Überträger des Krim-Kongo-Fiebers, einer lebensbedrohlichen Viruserkrankung.

Good protection against mosquitoes and ticks will become even more important in the future. This is because vaccines are only available for TBE and dengue fever. Bites and stings can be avoided through prudent behavior, insect repellent, mosquito nets, and long clothing. Daily body searches for ticks and professional removal of bitten ticks helps to prevent Lyme disease, as the quicker a tick is removed, the lower the risk of infection. Lyme disease can be recognized by the characteristic “migratory redness”, a large, circular reddening of the skin that often occurs around the site of a tick bite. Flu-like symptoms may also occur. If Lyme disease or TBE is suspected, a doctor should be consulted as soon as possible.

The first thing to do with mosquito bites is to cool the bite site. This can be done with cold compresses, cooling pads, or ice cubes in a cloth. It is important not to scratch the area to avoid infection. Over-the-counter antihistamines can help with severe itching or swelling.

Poisonous Scorpions in Germany

Of the approximately 2,300 scorpion species known worldwide, only 50 scorpion species have a venom that can kill humans. The scorpions found in Europe are not among these very venomous species. Although the scorpions in Europe also have venom, a sting is not usually life-threatening. There are also scorpions in Germany that originally come from Italy - but these are rare, small, and harmless. It is quite possible that other species will be introduced to Germany in the future.

Italian Scorpion – Neozoon

• Appearance: About 3-5 cm in size, brown to black in color.
• Habitat: Individual occurrences in southern Baden-Württemberg, especially in warmer areas such as the Kaiserstuhl, Freiburg im Breisgau, Heidelberg (e.g. Philosophenweg, Schlossmauer), Karlsruhe, Rhine Valley, Moselle, and Middle Rhine Valley (e.g., around Koblenz, Boppard), Trier, and the surrounding area. The scorpion lives hidden in crevices, under loose bark, stones, or in cracks in walls, especially on warm, sunny walls and vineyards.
• Active at dusk or at night in warm weather.
• Sting present, but venom (neurotoxin) very weak - like an insect bite, only noticeable in sensitive people.

I haven't tried it myself yet, but scorpions are said to be easy to see at night with a UV lamp because they glow in UV light. The phenomenon is called biofluorescence. The outer skin of scorpions contains certain molecules that emit visible blue-green light when excited by short-wave, high-energy UV light. This glow is a kind of sun protection for them and may be used for orientation or as a lure at night.

Poisonous Amphibians in Germany

Some amphibian species in Germany have mild skin toxins (alkaloids, bufotoxins) that irritate the skin and, in very rare cases, can cause allergies or symptoms of poisoning in sensitive people. The secretion can irritate the eyes or mouth. Children in particular should wash their hands after contact with amphibians.

The bufotoxin system is common in many amphibians, such as the common toad. It mainly affects the nervous system and the heart of predators, e.g. birds or small mammals.

Fire salamander

• Poison: Produces the alkaloid samandarin in skin glands.
• Effect: Irritating to mucous membranes, causes cramps in animals, skin irritation and nausea possible in humans.
• Special feature: The glands are mainly located behind the eyes - the poison is released when threatened.

Toads - Yellow-bellied toad and Fire-bellied toad

• Appearance: Wart-like skin, brightly colored belly (yellow or orange with black).
• Venom: Skin secretion contains batrachotoxins (not to be confused with the highly toxic tropical variants).
• Effect: Skin and eye irritation on direct contact with the secretion.
• Defense: In case of danger, they show their belly in a defensive posture (“toad reflex”) to deter predators.

Common toad and Midwife toad

• Appearance of the common toad: Brown-grey toad with warty skin.
• Appearance midwife toad: Grey-brown, sometimes slightly olive-colored; often with dark spots, lighter underside. Eyes strikingly golden yellow with a horizontal pupil.
• Venom: Bufotoxins in skin secretions and from the ear glands behind the eyes.
• Effect: Irritation of the mucous membranes, bitter taste, can cause vomiting or drooling in pets such as dogs. They are harmless to humans as long as you wash your hands after touching them and avoid contact with your eyes or mouth.

Possible symptoms of amphibian toxins

• In case of skin contact: Burning, itching, redness, slight swelling, irritation of the mucous membranes (eyes, mouth)
• If swallowed: Nausea, vomiting, abdominal pain, metallic/bitter taste, tingling in the mouth, in very rare cases: Circulatory problems, shortness of breath

Most common First Aid Measures

• Wash skin thoroughly with soap and water
• Flush eyes or mucous membranes (with clear water or eyewash solution)
• Do not rub!
• If swallowed: Rinse out mouth, possibly activated charcoal (if available)
• Consult a doctor if symptoms are severe

Poisonous Fish in Germany

Lurking well camouflaged in the sand is the most poisonous fish in Europe. The weever fish is found in shallow water, partly buried in the sand and therefore easy to overlook. If you come into contact with the Petermännchen, you will immediately feel severe pain, often followed by swelling that lasts up to 24 hours. But the sea scorpion can also sting unpleasantly with its dorsal fin spines. Sturdy bathing shoes offer the best protection.

Weever fish

• Appearance: Elongated, laterally flattened demersal fish with eyes on the top of the head, 15 to 53 cm long. They have a green-brown-yellowish coloration.
• Habitat: Sandy bottoms in the North Sea and western Baltic Sea
• Danger: Dorsal and gill cover spines with painful venom
• Symptoms: Severe pain, swelling, rarely circulatory problems

Sea scorpion

• Appearance: Up to 60 centimeters long, a demersal fish with a bulky head and large mouth
• Habitat: Primarily in the Baltic Sea, often near the shore, among rocks
• Danger: Dorsal fin spines with a slightly toxic secretion
• Symptoms: Pain, redness, relatively harmless – but unpleasant

Most common first aid measures for a weever or sea scorpion sting

• Remove the sting (not with bare fingers)
• Soak the wound under hot water (approx. 45°C; 15–30 minutes) – heat destroys the protein toxin and relieves the pain. For dogs, place a hot washcloth on the sting site if necessary.
• Disinfect, observe
• If you experience circulatory problems, severe swelling, or allergic reactions: See a doctor immediately!

Poisonous Freshwater Fish in Germany

There are fish species in Germany that have venom glands on their spiny fin rays: ruffe, perch, and zander. Their sting venom can cause local pain, swelling, redness, or mild inflammation, similar to an insect bite. The effect is not dangerous, but there is a risk of infection if the wound is not cleaned.

Caution when fishing and good wound care are important.

Poisonous Jellyfish in Germany

In German waters, compass jellyfish, moon jellyfish, and fire jellyfish can cause skin reactions. For healthy people, contact with the jellyfish found here is unpleasant but not life-threatening. The venom of the stinging cells can cause burning pain, redness, itching, and minor swelling. Allergy sufferers, children, or people with sensitive skin may experience more severe reactions.

Most common first aid measures for jellyfish contact

• Do not rub!
• Use salt water (not fresh water) to rinse.
• Vinegar helps deactivate stinging cells in some species (not all!).
• Carefully remove tentacle remains with tweezers or a credit card.
• In case of severe reactions: Seek medical attention!

Book Recommendations about poisonous Animals and Animals in Germany

Want to know more about poisonous animals and our native animals in Germany? Then I can recommend these books (affiliate links).

You can order the books on Amazon by clicking on the images. If you purchase a product through an affiliate link, I receive a small commission, and you help me continue to fill Fernweh-Motivation with interesting articles. This doesn't increase the price of the product for you, and you're doing me a huge favor. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.

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Recommendations for further Reading

Du bist gerne draußen unterwegs und achtest auf deine (und anderer Leute) Sicherheit? Dann interessieren dich ganz sicher auch mein Artikel zum Thema staying healthy on trekking tours sowie mein Artikel über midges in Scotland.

Der Beitrag Giftige Tiere in Deutschland: Was du wissen musst erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

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Disclaimer: Entering lost places can be dangerous. This article is not a recommendation for action but has a purely informative character. No liability is assumed..

Once upon a time... Glory and splendor at the Haidemühl glassworks

The first glassworks in Haidemühl was built in 1835 by the glass manufacturer Greiner. Here hollow glasses, lampshades, and perfume glasses were produced. Several changes of owners followed, bankruptcy, reconstruction, cessation of operations due to the war, and finally modernization in the 1960s. At that time, the Haidemühl glassworks was considered one of the most modern plants in the GDR. Around 1280 people had their jobs here. Only here were the 0.5-liter milk bottles produced from 1971 on, which were on almost every breakfast table at that time. They were even exported to the West. Around 345,000 bottles are said to have rolled off the production line here every day.

After reunification, the Treuhand took over the plant and sold it to an investor from the West. However, nothing was invested here. On the contrary, the machines were sold and production was stopped shortly after, in 1992. The fate of the glassworks was not an isolated case at that time. Many companies in the former GDR suffered a similar fate. And many of them did not clean up their act, leaving contaminated sites and waste in place. Environmental scandals were often only uncovered many years later.

Birch Trees and Tons of Potassium Carbonate

I continue walking and come to a large hall. The birch trees have already taken root here. They are not choosy, they grow as pioneer plants almost everywhere. Under the leaky roof of the hall, countless bags of potassium carbonate from Taiwan (Taiwan Pulp & Paper Co.) and South Korea (Korea Potassium Chemical Co. Ltd.) are piled up. Each container holds 1,000 kilograms. Many have burst open over time and the powder is spread across the floor of the hall. Where the hall roof has collapsed, moss is growing on the white powder. Next to it lie holey bags full of broken glass. No, the birch trees are really not picky.

On the walls of the warehouse, a few colorful graffiti bring color and cheerfulness to the gray drabness of the glassworks. I hope the sprayers didn't inhale any powder dust. Because potassium carbonate can cause severe irritation of the respiratory tract. The eyes are also attacked by the corrosive dust. The safety data sheets advise wearing gloves and a respiratory mask when working with potassium carbonate.

Potassium carbonate - use and effect

Potassium carbonate is also known as potash. As a leavening agent, it is a traditional ingredient, especially for Christmas cookies. Here at the Haidemühl glassworks, it was used as a flux in glass production. With the help of the flux, the melting temperatures of burnt lime (2500 °C) and quartz sand (1700 - 2000 °C) are reduced to around 1450 °C, the normal operating temperature in the glass furnace, thus saving energy.

Potassium carbonate can be corrosive in contact with the skin. Safety data sheets warn of severe skin, eye, and respiratory irritation in humans. The same probably applies to the mucous membranes of animals that venture too close.

The powder should be stored in tightly closed containers in a dry place. It must be prevented from entering the sewage system, surface and groundwater, and soil. Potassium carbonate is very soluble in water. The solution reacts alkaline by forming hydroxide ions. No ecotoxicological effects are known from potassium carbonate itself. Biological effects are mainly caused by the increase in the pH value in the water. This is because pH is a very important regulator of chemical and biological processes. Strongly acidic and alkaline conditions can have toxic effects on organisms. For example, an excessively high pH value can convert ammonium present in the water into ammonia, which is toxic to fish.

Nothing is happening

UPDATE, Nov. 2023: The site has now been fenced off and the steel containers in the entrance area have been removed.

But why are the contaminated sites at the Haidemühl glassworks still gathering dust after 30 years?  

A year after the Haidemühl glassworks ceased operations, it was decided that the factory site and the surrounding settlement should make way for open-cast lignite mining. The inhabitants of the settlement were relocated long ago. LEAG, which operates the Welzow-Süd open-pit lignite mine and also wants to mine lignite here, has not yet been able to complete the purchase. Depending on the source, the reason is unclear ownership or different ideas about the purchase price.

For the municipality of Welzow, the property has long been an abomination. In response to my inquiry, the mayor assured me that the municipality "has been doing everything in its power for years to eliminate these desolate conditions, which are difficult to accept. We are in constant exchange with all parties involved. The mining company is struggling to find a solution that will hopefully lead to a proper and professional disposal of the contaminated sites in the next few years."   

Between the halls, the trees have already reached a stately size after 30 years. It doesn't seem to bother them that their roots have to find their way between broken glass. The glass bottles still glow after 30 years when the sun shines on them. Most of them are green. Only now and then do I see transparent glass bottles. Moss grows inside them, slowly but surely turning them green.

Book Recommendations for Lost Places and abandoned Places in Berlin and worldwide

You want to discover more Lost Places? Then I have three book recommendations for you. You can order the books with a click on the pictures at Amazon. If you buy a book or another article via an affiliate link, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you.

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Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love abandoned places as much as I do? Then take a look at my two articles below:

Chernobyl - Photography against Oblivion

Deception Island - Lost Place in Antarctica

Der Beitrag Lost Place Glashütte Haidemühl: Birken, Glas und Kaliumcarbonat erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Harz Mountains, Germany.  The Harzer Hexenstieg (Harz Witch's Path) leads across the Harz Mountains over a length of almost 100 kilometers. The varied route runs through deciduous and coniferous forests, across moors and up to the highest mountain in the Harz, the Brocken. There is a lot to discover during the hike, such as the history of mining, the Harz narrow-gauge railroad, the significance of the Brocken and, of course, the sagas and legends about the Harz witches.

You always wanted to do a multi-day hike? Or you are looking for a versatile route to train for a longer trekking tour? Then the Hexenstieg in the Harz Mountains is just the thing.

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links.

There are already many articles about the Hexenstieg with exact and detailed descriptions of the way...

In this Article you will learn

• Which 10 highlights you should not miss during your hike on the Hexenstieg in the Harz Mountains... sometimes they are not so directly on the way.
• Why the Hexenstieg is so well suited as a first step for multi-day hiking tours.
• You'll also get lots of helpful tips for planning your hike, such as how to get there and back, where to stay or maps.

But first:

What is it about the Witches?

The Harz region is known for its witches. They gather at the Hexentanzplatz in Thale, ally themselves with the devil on the Brocken and hang in every souvenir store as little dolls riding a broom.

This reputation originated primarily from Goethe's work Faust. But the Brocken (also known as Blocksberg) was already considered a meeting place for witches previously. This is where the witches flew to the "witches' sabbath" to renew their pact with the devil.

Unfortunately, the Harz was also particularly in the spotlight at the time of the witch hunt. But fortunately these times are over. Instead, the Harz is now known for its Walpurgis celebrations, which take place every year on April 30. Particularly celebrated is the Hexentanzplatz Thale and Schierke.

Tip: How about hiking the Harzer Hexenstieg for Walpurgis ? Or on Halloween , like we did? Halloween is not such a big deal in the Harz, but the great foliage color in the fall is hard to top in good weather. It was especially beautiful on the last two stages.

At a Glance: the Hexenstieg in the Harz Mountains

Length: approx. 96 kilometers; Brocken bypass approx. 107 km

Duration: About 5 days

The Hexenstieg in the Harz Mountains is about 96 kilometers long and is usually divided into five stages. But the daily stages can be arranged individually depending on your own fitness and endurance. How exactly you divide the individual stages also depends on the available accommodation. So one stage can be a little longer or a little shorter. Early booking is worthwhile, then you have the greatest flexibility.

The direct route leads from Osterode over the Brocken to Thale. There is also the possibility to bypass the Brocken via St. Andreasberg and Braunlage. Then you walk less altitude meters, but the route is a little longer with 107 kilometers.

A detailed description including map, altitude profile and GPX data for navigation can be found at Harzinfo.

• Stage 1: From Osterode to Buntenbock: Length: 11,62 km; Ascent: 620 m; Descent: 227 m
• Stage 2: From Buntenbock to Torfhaus : Length: 21.99 km; Ascent: 804 m; Descent: 556 m
• Stage 3: From Torfhaus over the Brocken to Drei-Annen-Hohne : Length: 19.75 km; Ascent: 1141 m; Descent: 542 m
• Stage 4: From Drei-Annen-Hohne via Rübeland to Altenbrak : Length: 28.6 km; Ascent: 170 m; Descent: 412 m
• Stage 5: Altenbrak to Thale : Length: 14.10 km; Ascent: 336 m; Descent: 173 m

10 Highlights of the Hike on the Hexenstieg in the Harz Mountains

#1 Mining History and the Oberharzer Wasserregal (Upper Harz Water Regal)
#2 Torfhaus and Dinner at the Bavaria Alm
#3 Torfhaus National Park Visitor Center
#4 Upland Moor along the Goethe Trail
#5 Brocken Summit - the highest Mountain in the Harz Mountains
#6 Brocken Railway
#7 Schierker Feuerstein: Schnapps and Granite Rocks
#8 Rübeländer Dripstone Caves
#9 Suspension Bridge "Titan RT" over the Rappbode Dam
#10 "Grand Canyon of the Harz" - Roßtrappe and Hexentanzplatz near Thale

#1 Mining History and the Oberharzer Wasserregal (Upper Harz Water Regal)

The Upper Harz was once the most important ore district in Germany. Iron, lead, copper and silver were primarily mined here. In the period from the 16th to the 19th century, about 40-50% of the silver mined in Germany came from the Upper Harz. For centuries, the people of the Harz lived with and from mining. But with the closing of the last mine in Bad Grund on March 28, 1992, the mining epoch in the Harz was over.

Mining in the Harz has left its mark on the landscape. Wood was needed for ore processing and gallery construction. The original forests were cleared and reforested with fast-growing spruce monocultures .

The technical equipment in and around the mine was powered by water. The Oberharzer Wasserregal was created between 1536 and 1866 to store and transport water to the mines. It comprised 120 dam ponds, 500 kilometers of water ditches and 130 kilometers of underground water transfer and solution tunnels. Due to its uniqueness, the Oberharzer Wasserregal is protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. On the way you will find again and again buildings of the Wasserregal with information boards, especially on the stages 2 and 3.

More info about the Oberharzer Wasserregal.

Mining museums and show mines in the Harz Mountains

#2 Torfhaus and Dinner at the Bavaria Alm

Torfhaus is the highest settlement in Lower Saxony at about 800 meters above sea level. It is a popular destination and consists mainly of tourist facilities. In addition, Torfhaus is an easily accessible starting point for various hiking tours.

Until the German reunification in 1990, Torfhaus was mainly known as a viewpoint of the nearby, but at that time unreachable Brocken. Even today, the view of the Brocken is fantastic in clear weather. But that doesn't seem to be enough for some people: at the end of May 2021, construction work started on a 65-meter-high observation tower.

By the way, the small village owes its origin to the peat extractionwhich was operated here from 1573 to 1786. However, since the peat dried poorly in the prevailing weather conditions, peat mining in the Upper Harz was discontinued.

When you have reached your second day's destination Torfhaus in the evening, you have earned a reward! The rustic Bavaria Alm at Torfhaus is just the right place. It's best to reserve a table, especially if you want to stop there on the weekend.

#3 Torfhaus National Park Visitor Center

At Torfhaus, the central contact point for all hikers and nature lovers is the National Park Visitor Center. Here, an exhibition on two floors informs about the national park and about the wilderness that is being created here. In the Shop you can also buy hiking maps, Harz and nature books as well as small souvenirs.

Opening hours are from April to October daily 9 am - 5 pm. It might be a little tight if you want to hike the long distance to Drei Annen Hohne that day. But if you plan your stage a little shorter and hike, for example, only to the Brocken or Schierke, then you have time to visit.

By the way: The Torfhaus is also a biker meeting place. If you are there in the afternoon, you can marvel at tens of hot stoves.

As a little side note: 
Before my studies, I did a three-month internship at the Harz National Park Administration, helping to develop exhibition content and giving guided tours. Working with the forester was a particular challenge: We mapped damage to spruce trees and usually had to trudge through knee-high snow. With today's equipment, that's not so bad. But back then, I only had ankle-high sneakers and knitted woolen boot tops from my mom. Those were the days 😉

#4 Upland Moor along the Goethe Trail

The picturesque views and legendary places in the Harz Mountains inspired Goethe's Faust. So it is obvious that a trail in the Harz Mountains is also named after the famous writer . The Goethe Trail is 16.3 km long and leads from Altenau via Torfhaus to the Brocken. The trail is particularly beautiful at the Abbegraben and the Großes Torfhausmoor. As soon as the high moor is reached, a wooden plank path branches off into the moor. In clear weather, you can see the Brocken particularly well from here.

The Torfhausmoor is located at an altitude of about 800 meters in an area with particularly high precipitation. As a rain moor, it is supplied exclusively by precipitation and by mineral salts from the air. It is about 30 hectares in size and has a peat layer that is over five meters thick and 10,000 years old. Peat was mined here from 1713 to 1786, hence the place name Torfhaus.

Raised bogs are low-mineral-salt, acidic and wet habitats. Everything that lives here must be adapted to these extreme conditions. These include sphagnum mosses, cotton grass, broom heath, dwarf birch or the round-leaved sundew. The fauna consists mainly of insects and frogs.

#5 Brocken Summit - the highest Mountain in the Harz Mountains

Early in the morning, the Brocken is with 1141,2 meters the highest mountain in the Harz Mountains and also one of the highlights of the Hexenstieg. However, the climate up here is harsh, similar to that of Iceland or the high altitudes of the Alps. Heavy storms up to hurricane force are not uncommon here. In addition, it is the foggiest place in all of Germany: on more than 300 days a year, the summit is at least temporarily submerged in fog.

The Brocken summit is the only mountain in the German low mountain range above the timberline.

At the time of German division, the Brocken was located in the immediate border area. From August 1961 it became a restricted area and was no longer accessible to hikers. A three-meter-high wall surrounded the military summit. The listening stations set up here intercepted radio traffic in almost all of Western Europe.

After reunification, the Brocken summit was renaturalized at a cost of millions. The Harz narrow-gauge railroad also runs up to the summit again. If you want to stay longer than an afternoon, you can stay at the Brocken Hotel and a restaurant will take care of your physical well-being. In addition, the Brockenhaus houses the visitor center of the Harz National Park and the Brocken Garden.

#6 Brocken Railway

The Harz narrow gauge railroad is a "must see" for all visitors to the Harz mountains. You can see it especially well at the Brocken itself, of course, or at the stations Schierke and Drei Annen Hohne. Most of the time you can hear the steam train coming from far away or see the dark smoke of the locomotive in the distance.

Tip: If the Hexenstieg stage from Torfhaus to Drei Annen Hohne is too far for you, you can cheat a little and take the Brocken to Schierke and/or Schierke to Drei Annen Hohne with the Brockenbahn.

The meter-gauge route network of the Harz narrow-gauge railroads extends over a length of 140.4 km and is in operation all year round. In addition to the 19-kilometer-long Brockenbahn, there is also the Harzquerbahn and the Selketalbahn.

For the trip to the Brocken there is a uniform fare of 34 euros (one way) from all stations of the HSB. Current prices and information can be found here.

#7 Schierker Feuerstein: Schnapps and Granite Rocks

The village of Schierke is known for its witches and for the surrounding granite rocks, such as theFeuerstein, the Trudenstein or the Ahrendsklintklippe. But also on the drink menus the name Schierke appears again and again: as "Schierker Feuerstein". The herbal liqueur has tradition and definitely belongs in the picnic bag on this section of the Hexenstieg.

The recipe for Schierker Feuerstein was developed in 1908 by pharmacist Willy Drube in Schierke. The herbal liqueur was named after the Feuerstein cliffs in Schierke, because the reddish-brown color of the herbal liqueur is reminiscent of the reddish granite coloring of the cliffs.

Schierke was considered the "St. Moritz of the North". Only a few magnificent villas and hotel complexes remain from that time. During the German division, Schierke was called the "spa of the working people" from 1951.

Particularly beautiful places for a picnic are at the granite rocks that you can find around Schierke, such as at the Trudenstein.

#8 Rübeländer Dripstone Caves

There are several dripstone caves in the eastern Harz that are open to tourists. Two of these caves are located in the village of Rübeland: the Baumannshöhle and the Herrmannshöhle.

The Baumannshöhle is the oldest show cave in Germany. It is characterized by a special abundance of different dripstone formations. The largest cavity has even been turned into an underground natural stage where concerts and theater events take place. For more information on the program, admission and opening hours, visit the website of the Harz Caves.

The cave was already discovered in the 16th century by the miner Friedrich Baumann. Guided tours through the cave have been taking place since 1646. Today you can walk through the cave on your own and learn everything you need to know from information boards. To protect the stalactites and prevent accidents, photography in the cave is unfortunately not allowed.

Trekking boots, hiking poles, backpacks and everything else you might need for your tour on the Hexenstieg in the Harz Mountains can be found at Bergzeit.

#9 Suspension Bridge "Titan RT" over the Rappbode Dam

The suspension bridge over the Rappbode Dam is not directly on the Hexenstieg, but the small detour is worth it. After all, the "Titan RT" is the longest of its kind in the worldat the time of its completion with 458 meters. From the bridge you have a fantastic view of the Wendefurth reservoir and the gigantic concrete wall of the Rappbode dam.

The bridge hangs about 100 meters above the Rappboden valley. You have to be free from giddiness! Because the floor of the 1.2 meter wide bridge consists only of grating plates. And despite the stable anchorages with steel cables, the suspension rope bridge sways significantly. And if the adrenaline rush of walking on the bridge is not enough, there is a zipline and the pendulum jump "GigaSwing".

The suspension bridge is open all year round and daily from 8 am to 10 pm. You should allow about an hour for your visit. The bridge can only be used as a one-way route from northwest to southeast and is entered via turnstiles what can be tight with a hiking backpack.

In case of heavy rain, hail or a wind force over 6 Beaufort, the bridge is closed for safety reasons. More information can be found on the website of the suspension bridge.

#10 "Grand Canyon of the Harz" - Roßtrappe and Hexentanzplatz near Thale

The crowning glory of the Hexenstieg is the Roßtrappe and the Hexentanzplatz (Witches' Dance Place) in Thale. From here you have a view of the Bode Valley, which is one of the best hiking areas in the Harz and is rightly called the "Grand Canyon of the Harz" . Here you can end your hike with a relaxing drink. Both places are worthwhile and can either be hiked to or reached from Thale by chairlift or cable car . At both viewpoints there are restaurants where you can sit inside or outside.

The Rosstrappe is a 403 meter high granite rock on the left bank of the river Bode. On the rock there is a large depression that looks like a huge hoof print. According to legend, this imprint comes from the horse of the king's daughter Brunhilde. Fleeing from the giant Bodo, she drove her horse to jump over the valley. The horse's hoof dug deep into the rock as it landed. However, her pursuer fell during the jump into the river in the valley, which was henceforth called Bode.

I love such stories. In truth, however, the hoofprint is a man-made depression and probably belonged to a pre-Christian place of worship, possibly a sacrificial pool.

Located at an altitude of 450 meters, Hexentanzplatz (Witches' Dance Place) is probably one of the most legendary places in the eastern Harz Mountains. It is said that witches gather on this mountain plateau every year on Walpurgis Night and celebrate their rituals. Together they set off from here to the Brocken, where they then dance their devil's Sabbath around the blazing witches' fire.

Arrival and Departure to the Hexenstieg in the Harz Mountains

The starting and ending points of the Hexenstieg in the Harz Mountains are the towns of Osterode and Thale. Both are easy to reach by regional train or bus . Since the hike is a distance hike, getting there by public transportation makes the most sense. Otherwise, you would have to take a cab back to the starting point or face a lengthy bus ride with multiple transfers.

On the page of Hatix you can find an overview of the bus connections in the Harz.

A cab ride to the starting point takes about an hour. However, you also have to calculate waiting times, because the cab companies do not have so many vehicles in use. It's best to find out on the phone how much the ride will cost (about 140 euros).

Tip: Are you from Berlin? Then you can take the Harz-Berlin-Express (HBX) from Berlin to Thale and back in 3.5 hours without changing trains.

Signposts on the hiking route

The Hexenstieg is marked throughout. The hiking signs bear the name "Harzer-Hexen-Stieg" and show the direction and distance to the next intermediate destination. In the Harz National Park, the Hexenstieg is marked with the white witch in a green circle as a logo.

Hiking Map & Hiking Guide

You can order the map of the Hexenstieg in the Harz* and the hiking guides* at Amazon by clicking on the respective picture.

Accommodation

The available accommodations determine the length of each stage. Therefore, you should book as early as possible. We didn't do that and one of our stages was significantly longer as a result. Unfortunately, there is not a campground at each stage, so accommodations make the hike a bit more expensive.

Worthwhile and well located accommodations that I can recommend are for example:

• Buntenbock: Pension Holl und Boll Am Hexenstieg*
• Torfhaus: Torfhaus Harzresort*
• Brocken: Brocken Hotel
• Altenbrak: Pension & Restaurant “Zum Harzer Jodlermeister”*

If you prefer to travel only with a light daypack, you can also have your luggage transported between the accommodations. Either self-organized with the help of cabs or with a bookable tour, for example with Hiking in the Harz. Is only unfortunately significantly more expensive ... for two people from 990 euros.

Why the Hexenstieg is perfect for Beginners?

You are not sure if you can do the almost 100 kilometers? But you want to give it a try? Maybe even with a pack? Then the Hexenstieg in the Harz Mountains is just the right tour for you. Because if it should be too much, then you can also go a part by bus. And since you pay visitor's tax when you stay overnight in the Harz, the bus rides are even free for you. The only catch: especially on weekends there are not so many rides, so you have to plan ahead. In the worst case, you can also just take a cab to pick you up on the way.

Here again the bus line network: bus connections in the Harz.

Many hosts also offer support on request, for example luggage transport or shuttle rides to the start of the day's section. So you can adjust the length of your routes individually. In addition, there are always restaurants along the way where you can fortify yourself. So you need to take less provisions with you and you can also fill up on drinking water. You can see exactly where the restaurants are located on Google Maps or Maps.Me, for example. Attention: check beforehand whether the restaurant is open!

Tip: Do not forget to tell your accommodation if you arrive later in the evening. Often you hike longer than planned.

Book Recommendations for the Harz Mountains

You want to know where to go? Then I can recommend these hiking guides*.

You can order these books at Amazon with a click on the pictures. If you buy a product via one of these affiliate links, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you.

Do you know the Hexenstieg in the Harz Mountains and have you perhaps hiked it yourself? How did you like it there? Do you have any questions or suggestions about my article? If so, then write me a comment!

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Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love the long hikes as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about the Berlin Wall Trail or a Trekking Tour to the Greenlandic Ice Sheet.

Der Beitrag Harzer Hexenstieg – Highlights und Tipps für 100 km wandern im Harz erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Berlin. Monumental propaganda buildings, boulevards and prefabricated buildings. A walk from Alexanderplatz along Karl-Marx-Allee to Frankfurter Tor is a discovery tour in the footsteps of the GDR. In addition to the magnificent showpieces of socialism, you will find old advertising signs, fountains, mosaics or small hidden details on the facades of the houses. In the following article I take you on a tour through Berlin and show you a few impressive examples of GDR architecture.

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links.

TV Tower at Alexanderplatz

I don't think there are as many different souvenirs of any building in Berlin as there are of the TV Tower at the Alex: magnets, pencil sharpeners, cuddly TV towers, liquor bottles, cookie cutters and much more. Nothing that does not exist. It's hard to imagine the city without Berlin's tallest landmark, the 368 meter tower. You can see it from so many corners towering through the rows of houses, pointing the way. And when planes could still land at the inner-city Tegel Airport, it welcomed incoming passengers from afar.

Photo tip: From the roof terrace of the Park Inn Hotel opposite you have a great view of the tower.

TIP: How about breakfast in the restaurant at 203 meters above sea level*? The restaurant rotates once an hour and you have a fantastic view of the city. Or perhaps you'd prefer the three-course menu in the evening*?

Address: Panoramastrasse 1A

World Time Clock

The world time clock at the Alex is not only a popular meeting place, but also a great photo motif. Either in its entirety or just a section of the hour ring with the planetary system as a crown. There are no limits to your creativity here. For example, the TV tower can be used as a background. And since there are always a lot of people around the clock, street photographers also get their chance here. 

Address: Alexanderplatz 1

"Nuttenbrosche" - Fountain of Friendship between Peoples

There are always so many people sitting on the wall around the fountain that you usually don't see the beautiful enamel work by Walter Womacka in the middle of the fountain. Therefore my tip: go to the Alex on a Sunday morning to take pictures. Then the light is the most beautiful and you can choose your motifs in peace.

By the way, the fountain of friendship built in 1970 is also affectionately called "hooker brooch" which means as much as brooch of prostitutes.

Address: Alexanderplatz 9

Berlin Congress Center

The Berlin Congress Center (BCC), together with the neighboring Haus des Lehrers (House of Teacher), forms a listed ensemble on Alexanderplatz. Both buildings were constructed in the early 1960s during the complete reconstruction of Alexanderplatz, which was destroyed during World War II. The nearby Haus des Reisens (House of Travel) and the Haus der Statistik (House of Statistics) were also part of the redevelopment plan at the time and were built around the same time.

After about three years of construction, the Haus des Lehrers and the Congress Center opened on September 9, 1964. At that time, the People's Chamber of the GDR met in the center, which was equipped with state-of-the-art technology and seating for over 1,000 people. But when the Palace of the Republic opened in 1976, the People's Chamber moved to the even more modern and prestigious building next to Berlin Cathedral.

After reunification, the building ensemble was finally sold and renovated for around 15 million euros. In the process, the entire technology was renewed and 23 event rooms with up to 2,500 seats were created.

Address: Alexanderstraße 11

House of the Teacher with Walter Womacka Mosaic

Around the House of the Teacher stretches the wide mosaic "Our Life" by the famous artist Walter Womacka. It represents the achievements of science in a Mexican style. The House of the Teacher is a superlative building not only because of the mosaic of millions of little stones: at that time, in 1964, it was the first high-rise building on Alexanderplatz.

TIP: The mosaic is difficult to photograph. Either you have falling lines or only a small section of the artwork in the picture. It is best to try to photograph it from further away with a telephoto lens.

Address: Alexanderstraße 9

House of Travel

The Haus des Reisens was opened in 1971. Today, the building with its extraordinary architectural details is listed as an example of international architecture of the 1970s. These beautiful details include the wave-shaped canopy and the copper relief "Man Overcomes Time and Space" by the artist Walter Womacka.

The 18-story House of Travel was home to the headquarters of the Travel Agency of the German Democratic Republic and offices of Interflug until German reunification. It also housed counters for air and train traffic, the central foreigners' service of the travel agency with the foreigners' registration service, and an exchange office of the Industrie- und Handelsbank.

TIP: On the 12th floor as well as on the roof terrace on the 15th floor, the Week End Club invites you to chill out and party.

Address: Alexanderstraße 7

House of Statistics

The House of Statistics was opened in 1970 as the headquarters of the GDR's State Central Administration for Statistics. It was built according to socialist ideals as part of the redevelopment of the war-damaged Alexanderplatz.

After German reunification, the Federal Statistical Office and the Federal Commissioner for Stasi Documents used the buildings. Since 2008, the buildings have stood empty. The Federal Republic of Germany, as the owner, already intended to demolish and sell the property. But in 2017, the Berlin Senate bought the ensemble of buildings at a price of 50 million euros.

Extensive refurbishment and conversion measures for mixed use for administration, culture, education, social services and housing are planned.

Address: Otto-Braun-Strasse 70-72

Café Moscow

Café Moskau is located directly opposite the Cinema International. At the time of the GDR, it was a nationality restaurant serving food from different peoples of the Soviet Union. It opened in 1964 and had more than 600 seats inside.

An eye-catcher to this day is the full-size model of the Sputnik satellite on the roof above the entrance. Below it, the large mosaic "From the Life of the Peoples of the Soviet Union" by the painter Bert Heller decorates the entrance area.

After the fall of the Berlin Wall, the Treuhand took over the building, which was listed as a historical monument in 1990. After it stood empty for about ten years, various events were again held in the café from 2000. In 2007, the popular meeting place was then renovated in accordance with the preservation order and a new room concept, new building technology and a new glass facade were implemented.

The mosaic painting takes up the entire wall height in the entrance area. The detailed work of natural stone contains golden accents in some places. In the upper left corner of the mosaic you can also spot the Sputnik satellite.

Address: Karl-Marx-Allee 34

Cinema International

The large-capacity Cinema International opened in 1963 and hosted film premieres until 1990. The three-story reinforced concrete skeleton building appears light and airy. This impression is reinforced because the cinema hall cantilevers nine meters above the first floor without a single support and appears to float above it. With its large glass surface, the entrance area appears open and inviting.

In addition to the cinema hall, there were also other rooms, including a representation room. This is where the party leadership met after the premieres, which is why the room is called the "Honecker Lounge" today. There was also a library and even a small nuclear bunker in the basement.

Address: Karl-Marx-Allee 33

Former Mocha Milk Ice Cream Bar

The Mokka-Milch ice cream bar was planned as one of eleven analog pavilions. However, only five of these were actually realized in the early 1960s. In addition to the Mokka-Milch-Eisbar, these were the Madeleine fashion salon with the Interflor flower shop, the Babette beauty salon, Kunst im Heim and the Centrum shoe store. The flat hall buildings are all clad with yellow ceramic tiles on the outer facades and have an open gallery floor inside.

Together with the Kino International and Café Moskau, the five pavilions form an ensemble that blends into the surrounding residential complex. The ensemble originally included the Hotel Berolina behind the cinema. But this was demolished in 1996. A similar-looking high-rise building was built on the same site, which eventually housed the Mitte City Hall. All the buildings together are an extremely worth seeing example of GDR architecture in Berlin.

The Mocha Milk Ice Cream Bar soon achieved cult status and was especially popular with young people. After the fall of the Berlin Wall, however, the bar had to close. It was not until 1993 that the building reopened with the Alberts restaurant and the A-Lounge nightclub. At Alberts, you could even try classic eastern dishes, such as ragout fin of veal, cold dog, sausage goulash or steak au four. But in 2019, Alberts, and with it the last restaurant in the pavilions, closed its doors.

In May 2018, plans were presented according to which the five built pavilions will be completed in the future.

Address A-Lounge: Karl-Marx-Allee 35

Long tested and much loved: my three companions on photo tours: the lightweight carbon tripod CT-5C I from Rollei*, the cleaning kit from Rollei*and my indestructible camera backpack, the Flipside from Lowepro*.

"Floating Ring" at Strausberger Platz

In the middle of Strausberger Platz, which was redesigned at the end of the 1960s, stands the "Schwebender Ring" fountain designed by Fritz Kühn. Built in 1966, the fountain takes its name from the monumental decorative ring that is held in suspension by several posts in the center of the fountain. The ring consists of 16 rectangular relief panels showing combinations of diamond and pyramid shapes. Each relief also shows a different combination. The water fountain in the center of the ring reaches a height of up to 18 meters. In addition, the ring is surrounded by smaller water fountains. Due to the spray of water, the pillars supporting the ring are barely visible, making it appear as if the ring is floating.

Address: Strausberger Platz center island

Karl Marx Bust

The southeastern edge of Strausberger Platz has been adorned since 1983 by a bronze Karl Marx bust about one meter tall.

Address: Strausberger Platz

Workers' Palaces and GDR Architecture of Karl-Marx-Allee

As part of the National Reconstruction Program, a boulevard was to be built as a showpiece of the capital. The plan was to create a prestigious avenue with magnificent "workers' palaces". The buildings were to be a symbol of the GDR's strength and engineering skills. From my point of view this was completely successful, the buildings are great examples of GDR architecture in Berlin.

The boulevard is wider than average over a length of two kilometers. This provided enough space for parades and marches. The street is lined with five large-scale workers' palaces with up to 13 floors.

The architectural style is based on Socialist Classicism as well as Berlin Classicism. Thus, antique forms can be found in many places, such as Doric or Ionic columns or ornamental gables with friezes. The tower buildings at Strausberger Platz and Frankfurter Tor are the architectural highlights of Karl-Marx-Allee and are reminiscent of a city gate.

The western end of the square is formed by the two 14-story high-rise buildings "Haus des Kindes" (House of Children) and "Haus Berlin". At the time, Haus des Kindes housed apartments, a puppet theater, a kindergarten, a children's department store and a children's café. Haus Berlin housed restaurants, cafés and also a bar on the lower and upper floors.

Name salad
The new boulevard was renamed Stalinallee to celebrate Stalin's 70th birthday on December 21, 1949. After Stalin's death, it was given the name Karl-Marx-Alleein the course of de-Stalinization on November 13, 1961. The section of Stalinallee to the east of the Frankfurter Tor was renamed Frankfurter Allee.

Address: Karl-Marx-Allee

Cinema Kosmos

The large-capacity Kosmos cinema was opened on October 5, 1962. It was the largest cinema in the GDR with 1001 seats and was used as a premiere cinema. After the German reunification, the cinema was finally taken over by UFA and converted into a multiplex cinema with 3400 seats in 1996. In 2005, however, cinema operations were discontinued. Since March 2006, Kosmos has been used for conferences, evening events, special cinema screenings and as a theater.

While the surrounding buildings of the Karl-Marx-Alle are built in the "Zuckerbäcker" style, the Kosmos cinema with its smooth facade and curved surfaces resembles more the congress hall built at the same time in West Berlin. The façade of the foyer with its colorful stones made of glazed ceramics is particularly striking.

Address: Karl-Marx-Allee 131A

Café Sybille

Café Sibylle opened in 1953 under the name Milchtrinkhalle and was renamed Milchbar a short time later. In the 1960s, the Milchbar was renamed again to Café Sybille. The name was taken from the women's magazine Sybille, which was popular in the GDR at the time. The café developed into a showpiece and popular meeting place. But when the fall of the Berlin Wall came, it was closed, like so many other establishments.

In the early 2000s, Café Sybille reopened under the same name. It is still much more than just a café, however. For it also houses an exhibition about the history of the former Stalin and later Karl Marx Allee.

Also on display are numerous everyday objects from the GDR of the 1950s and 1960s, as well as an ear and a piece of beard from the Stalin monument that stood on Stalinallee in the 1960s.

Address: Karl-Marx-Allee 72

Paulick Candelabra

Architect Richard Paulick designed the two- and four-armed Paulick candelabras especially for Stalinallee in the early 1950s. A total of 215 Paulick candelabras adorn today's Karl-Marx-Allee. Due to severe damage caused by corrosion of the steel reinforcements and concrete spalling, the candelabras were replaced by replicas of the same shape in 2008 and 2009.

Book Recommendations for GDR Architecture

Want to know even more about GDR architecture and discover new photo locations in Berlin and the former GDR? Then I have a lot of inspiration for trips and photo tours for you. You can order the books easily at Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a book or another article via an affiliate link, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you.

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More Architecture Articles to read

You want to discover more architectural gems? How about a Photo Tour in "Elektropolis" - Industrial Architecture in Berlin Schöneweide or a Journey through Time to the socialist planned city of Eisenhüttenstadt??

Der Beitrag DDR Architektur in Berlin: Fototour vom Alexanderplatz zum Frankfurter Tor erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

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Hiking in the Schönower Heide

You can discover the Schönower Heide on two different circular trails: on the 1.6 kilometer long Heidepfad or on the longer 5 kilometer long Wildwanderweg.The latter leads once around the fenced grazing area. There are numerous information boards along both paths that provide information about the historical development of the area, the shape of the landscape, and typical plants and animals of the Schönow Heath. In some places you can even discover evidence of the former military use, such as remains of bunkers, old tires, metal pipes or a rusty traffic sign.

Since this is a former military training area, off the trails still lie dangerous ordnance. Therefore, leaving the paths is prohibited. However, there are several trails that lead across the heath landscape, which is surrounded by the heath path. Here you can see the sand dune landscape particularly well.

At a Glance

Route: Wildwanderweg 5.0 km; Heidepfad 1.6 km
Can be combined with: Hobrechtsfelder Rieselfelder
Size of the nature reserve: about 533 ha
Highlights: Wildlife watching, heath blossoms, inland dunes
Facilities: two barrier-free lookout points, two picnic areas, several wooden benches, information boards and heath quiz
Best time: worthwhile all year round; best during the heath blossom (mid-August to mid-September)

TIP: You don't want to walk everything? Then you can also ride your bike on the gravel paths.

Viewpoints

From two small, filled-in mountains, the view opens up over the dry grassland and broom heath areas of the fenced-in nature reserve. The lookouts are both barrier-free and also offer a shelter with seating. You will reach the first lookout after only a few minutes of walking on the Heidepfad. Not far from this one is a watering hole, and there are also food troughs and salt licks set up for the animals. The chances of wildlife sightings are therefore particularly good here. If you walk the wildlife trail, then you should not miss this lookout mountain in any case and hike the bow with. The second lookout mountain is located on the Wildwanderweg.

TIP: When from mid-August to mid-September the flowering heather becomes a dense purple carpet, a visit is particularly worthwhile.

Emergence of a special Habitat

Originally, the landscape of Schönower Heide was characterized by mixed deciduous forests. At that time, the forests were used for timber production and as forest pasture. As a result of this use, a vegetation rich in mosses and lichens developed over time. Later reforestation measures in the 19th century finally resulted in an extensive pine forest area around Schönow.

At the end of the 19th / beginning of the 20th century, Berlin purchased land for the establishment of a city estate and for the creation of trickle fields. The purchased land included parts of the Schönower Heide, areas of which were soon used as a military training area. First it was used by the troops of the imperial army, then by the Reichswehr and finally, in GDR times, by the Soviet armed forces. At this time, another 125 hectares of forest were cleared and buildings, shelters and paths were constructed. The use of heavy combat vehicles as well as frequent fires kept the area free of overgrowth and promoted the formation of today's heath landscape.

After the German reunification, the area was no longer used as a military training area. A development of the area is problematic due to the still existing explosive ordnance contamination. In addition, it is a biotope worthy of protection, albeit man-made. In 2000, Schönower Heide was designated as a nature reserve and FFH area. Buildings were built back and paths for visitors were created. Various measures are intended to ensure the preservation of the heath areas and this very special habitat. The most important measure is the grazing by wild animals. For this purpose, fallow deer, mouflon and red deer were released in 2009 in a fenced area of about 140 hectares.

Wildlife Grazing in Schönower Heide

The open and dry landscape of the Schönower Heide is home to numerous rare species. However, if nature were left to its natural course, the heath landscape would quickly become overgrown and a forest would develop again. Many animals and plants that specialize in the dryness would thus lose their habitat.

Grazing with wild animals is intended to preserve the heath landscape. By eating, trodding and sweeping with their antlers, fallow deer, mouflon and red deer keep the landscape open. The animals were introduced here in the summer of 2009 and live year-round in a fenced-in area of about 140 hectares. This is a very close-to-nature and also favorable form of management. Mechanical methods, such as mowing, bush clearing or even burning off vegetation, can therefore be largely dispensed with. 

The "University for Sustainable Development Eberswalde" and the "Leibniz Institute for Zoo and Wildlife Research Berlin" accompany the grazing project scientifically.

TIP: A trip to Schönower Heide is especially beautiful, if you can also see animals. It's best to take binoculars with you, such as the handy and even waterproof Zeiss Terra ED 8×42**.

Fauna and Flora

On the area of the Schönower Heide grow broom heath, sandy meadows as well as pioneer woods like birch, pine, juniper and quaking aspen. In addition to sandy areas with silver grass and reindeer lichen, there are open inland dunes and, in the northeast, a depression overgrown with tall shrubs and grass. Typical species also include the sharp wall-pepper and the sand-strawflower.

Many heat-loving animal species live in the dry site of Schönower Heide, such as the sand lizard, butterflies, sand beetles, wild bees or grasshoppers. So far, 61 bird species have been recorded here. Species such as the nightjar, the woodcock, the great grey shrike or the hoopoe are particularly noteworthy. In spring and summer the song of the lark can be heard almost everywhere in the area. And with a little luck, you may also be able to make out the distinctive "whup-whup" of the hoopoe.

TIP: The hoopoe flies most often in the evening hours. Then you have a good chance to see one on the Schönower Heide.

TIP: Have you ever seen a nightjar ? There are some living here, in the nature reserve Schönower Heide. However, since they are perfectly camouflaged, they are hard to spot. But maybe you can hear them in the evening hours in spring. I've been to the lookout twice in the dark and could hear their buzzing song clearly both times.

How to get there

The nature reserve Schönower Heide is located north of Berlin, just beyond the city limits. If you arrive by car, you can park on a large parking lot on the left and right side of the Schönwalder Chaussee (L30) between Schönow and Schönwalde. Here you will also find the large entrance portal with hiking map and site plan.

The best way to get there by public transport is to take the S-Bahn to Zepernick. From here you can take the bus line 900 direction Bernau to the station Zepernicker Straße. From there it is about 700 meters to the entrance of the Schönower Heide. Bus 900 leaves every hour on the weekend. If you have missed the bus, then it would be about 2.6 kilometers on foot to the entrance.

Book Recommendations for Animal Lovers

You want to know which animal you see? Then I can recommend the following books. You can order them with a click on the picture at Amazon. If you order a book via one of these affiliate links, I will even get a small commission and you will help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting reports and tips. The article will not be more expensive for you.

Did you like my excursion tip to the animals on the former military training area Schönower Heide? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends. Do you have any questions or suggestions? If so, please write me a comment!

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More Nature Trips around Berlin

You want to discover even more nature? How about a Trip to the Döberitzer Heide near Berlin or a Walk along the Greenwichpromenade and in the Tegeler Forst?

Der Beitrag Schönower Heide – Wildwanderweg über ehemaligen Truppenübungsplatz erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.