Norway. Anyone traveling in the far north of Norway will quickly encounter the terms “Arctic” and “wild.” But some places fill these words with a very special meaning. One of these places is Hornøya—a small, uninhabited island east of Vardø, Norway's easternmost town, just a few kilometers from the Russian mainland. In spring, the barren rock awakens from its winter slumber when hundreds of thousands of seabirds return from their winter quarters to breed on the steep cliffs. I haven't seen many places like it and can highly recommend a visit. Here you can read about what to expect on the bird island of Hornøya, one of the best places for bird photography in Norway, and get lots of practical tips.

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links.

Hornøya/Reinøya – Bird Cliffs in the Barents Sea

Even as you approach by boat, you can hear the screeching of the bird colonies. Kittiwakes circle above the waves, while puffins with orange feet and colorful beaks land on the rocky outcrops. It is one of Norway's densest seabird colonies and a natural spectacle that leaves you speechless with amazement. As soon as I leave the boat, I am overwhelmed by the sheer number of birds on the rocks and in the air above me. It takes me a while to compose myself and take my first steps on the visitor trail.

Even as you approach by boat, you can hear the screeching of the bird colonies. Kittiwakes circle above the waves, while puffins with orange feet and colorful beaks land on the rocky outcrops. It is one of Norway's densest seabird colonies and a natural spectacle that leaves you speechless with amazement. As soon as I leave the boat, I am overwhelmed by the sheer number of birds on the rocks and in the air above me. It takes me a while to compose myself and take my first steps on the visitor trail.

History of the Islands Hornøya/Reinøya

Hornøya and Reinøya look back on a long history of use. As early as the Middle Ages, the islands served as an important source of food for the inhabitants of Vardø: eggs and seabirds were collected from the steep cliffs, and their feathers and down were used as commodities. This form of use continued for centuries and was of great importance for supplying the population in the barren Arctic. At the same time, the islands served as landmarks for fishing and shipping in the Barents Sea and, as Norway's easternmost points, also marked a strategically important position near the Russian border. With the decline of traditional use and growing awareness of the value of undisturbed breeding colonies, attitudes toward the islands began to change in the 20th century. In 1983, Hornøya and Reinøya were finally declared a nature reserve in order to permanently secure the significant seabird populations and protect the sensitive ecosystem from disturbance.

Geology and Climate

The islands of Hornøya and Reinøya consist mainly of sedimentary rocks, primarily slate and sandstone, which were deposited during the Devonian period around 400 million years ago. Weathering and erosion have created striking cliffs that rise 20 to 30 meters high on the western sides and provide ideal breeding grounds for seabirds. The rock layers are part of the geological structures of the Varanger Peninsula area and document the geological development of Finnmark. The climate of the islands is strongly influenced by their location in the Barents Sea: it is a subarctic maritime climate with long, cold winters and short, cool summers. Despite the high latitude, the influence of the North Atlantic Current prevents the sea from freezing permanently. The islands are often exposed to strong winds, fog, and rapid weather changes, which limit the vegetation to a few salt- and cold-resistant species such as mosses, lichens, and low herbs. The climatic conditions and barren soils explain why the islands are almost treeless and the habitats are largely characterized by rocks and sparse tundra vegetation.

The Bird Eldorado on Hornøya/Reinøya

The islands of Hornøya and Reinøya are home to one of Norway's largest and most species-rich seabird colonies. Every spring and summer, more than 50,000 breeding pairs return to use the steep cliffs, rocky ledges, and burrows as nesting sites. Particularly numerous are kittiwakes, with over 25,000 pairs, guillemots, with around 15,000 pairs, and around 11,000 to 16,000 puffins, which dig their breeding burrows in the grass and soil layers of the island. In addition, black guillemots, razorbills, thick-billed murres, and fulmars are also permanent members of the colony. Cormorants, cormorants, and various species of gulls, such as herring gulls and great black-backed gulls, occupy the rocks and coastal areas. The enormous diversity and density of birds make Hornøya and Reinøya one of the most important breeding grounds in the Barents Sea and an internationally significant bird sanctuary.

The longer I observe the colony, the more fascinating the birds' survival strategies seem to me. The guillemots lay their eggs directly on bare rock, pear-shaped so that they don't roll away. Puffins use their powerful beaks to dig breeding burrows in the ground – perfect nurseries protected from wind and cold. Every little behavior here has a purpose. Nothing is random; everything serves the cause of survival in this harsh world. Life here is a race against time: within a few months, the birds must raise their young before the autumn storms sweep across the Barents Sea.

The Puffins on Hornøya 

Clown among Seabirds

Puffins (Fratercula arctica) are among the best-known and most charismatic seabirds of the north. With their brightly colored beaks, expressive eyes, and waddling gait, they resemble small, winged clowns.

Puffins spend most of their lives on the open sea and only return to the coast during the breeding season. Their plumage is water-repellent, and their bodies are streamlined – perfect for diving. In fact, puffins can dive up to 60 meters deep to hunt fish. Their wings, which appear rather clumsy in the air, serve as powerful oars underwater. The shape of their beaks is also functional: thanks to special barbs, they can carry several fish at once. This is a clear advantage when raising their young, as small sand eels are their preferred prey.

The puffin population on Hornøya is estimated at around 5,000 to 7,000 breeding pairs. However, there have been fluctuations in the number of breeding birds in recent decades, as various environmental factors influence the population. While the island remains an important breeding ground, puffins are under severe pressure in other parts of Europe, and some colonies have already shrunk considerably.

The changing Seasons and Photographic Highlights

The puffins return to Hornøya in spring, usually in March or April, to occupy their breeding grounds. March is a particularly exciting time for photographers, when the first males arrive on the island, which is still covered in snow. They know exactly where their breeding burrows are hidden under the snow and defend them vehemently against competitors. The females follow the males ashore and search for their mates, who are already waiting faithfully for them. Puffins are monogamous and stay together for life.

In summer, when the chicks have hatched, there is a lot of activity on the island. The parents tirelessly bring fish, and impressive aerial photographs can be taken. The moment when a puffin lands with a beak full of small sand eels is a popular motif among photographers.

In late summer, the puffins leave the island. The young birds leave their nests and embark on their first big journey to the open sea. The adult birds then gradually lose their bright colors, marking the end of the annual cycle.

Threats and Protective Measures

Despite their large population numbers, puffins face numerous challenges. One of the greatest threats is the decline in their food sources. Climate change is altering ocean currents and affecting the populations of small fish such as sand eels, which are essential for puffins. In some areas, food shortages and low chick survival rates are a serious problem.

Other human influences are also affecting populations. Overfishing, pollution, and disturbances from tourism can have a negative impact on breeding colonies. In some regions, puffins are also victims of bycatch in fishing nets, which further reduces their populations.

Various protective measures have been put in place to counteract these threats. In many breeding areas, including Hornøya, protected areas have been established where access is strictly regulated. In addition, nature conservation organizations are working to reduce bycatch and promote sustainable fishing practices. Monitoring programs also help to observe populations over the long term and adjust necessary protective measures.

A Place you want to see again

As our boat sets sail back to Vardø in the late afternoon, the bird colony is just as noisy as it was in the morning. I look back at the dark cliffs, the small white lighthouse, and the clouds gathering over the Barents Sea. I already know that I will definitely come back here soon. Preferably, when there is still snow on the island and the first puffins are fighting for the best nesting caves.

Book Recommendations for Birdwatchers

You can order the books via the links on Amazon. If you purchase a product via an affiliate link, I will receive a small commission, and you will help me to continue filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you.

Photo Tips for Hornøya

Light & Season

• In spring (March/April), the light is often clear and high-contrast—perfect for photographing puffins in the snow.
• In summer, the days are long and almost endlessly bright. If you stay overnight in the lighthouse on the island, you can take advantage of the soft light in the morning and evening.

Equipment

• Telephoto lens for detailed shots of individual birds.
• Wide-angle lens to capture the vast colonies and cliffs.
• Weather protection for your camera equipment and yourself. The paths were extremely muddy, so rubber boots are a good idea.

Behavior & Respect

• The island may only be accessed along the marked/fenced paths. Never stray from the paths – any disturbance can endanger a nest.
• Patience is key: the birds often come very close on their own.

Practical Travel Information

Getting there

• Flight: The nearest city is Vardø, accessible via the small airport Vardø Svartnes (via Tromsø or Kirkenes).
• Ship: Alternatively, the Hurtigruten postal ship line calls at Vardø daily.
• Car: Traveling by car is worthwhile, as there is a National Scenic Route along the shore of the Varanger Fjord with many interesting stops along the way. Read more about this in my article Varanger Fjord: witches, street art, wildlife on the National Scenic Route.
• To the island: During the season (usually March to August), a small boat runs several times a day from Vardø to Hornøya. The crossing takes about 10 minutes. Tickets are available at the tourist information office at the harbor. More information is available here.

Accommodation

• There are several small hotels and guesthouses in Vardø.
• On Hornøya, it is possible to stay overnight in the lighthouse .

Travel Season

• March to August: This is when the bird paradise comes alive. The puffins return in March, and the colonies are at their densest in July.

Other Activities in the Region

• Vardø: Norway's easternmost town offers exciting history – here you will find, for example, the memorial to the victims of the witch trials (Steilneset Memorial), various museums, and Vardøhus Fortress, a star-shaped fortification from the 18th century. In the evening, it is worth visiting Nordpol Kro, where Nansen used to drink his beer.
• A particularly scenic drive to the old fishing village of Hamningberg with good chances of seeing reindeer.
• Bird watching: The neighboring islands and along the coast of Varanger also offer excellent bird watching opportunities with chances to see rare Arctic bird species. There are numerous observation huts.
• Northern Lights: From September to March, there are chances to see the Northern Lights.

Book recommendations for Norway

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love the north as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about my Husky Guide Training – Two Months with Hetta Huskies in Finland or about Trekking on the Laugavegur in Iceland.

Der Beitrag Vogelfotografie Hornøya – Guide zu der Vogelinsel im arktischen Norwegen erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Germany. The cries of the birds echo across the Red Cliff like a wild concert. Below, the North Sea rages, while above, white silhouettes circle in the wind. I am standing on the highlands of Heligoland, Germany's only offshore island, looking out at the famous Lummenfelsen rock while northern gannets circle above me. Right next to me, just a few inches from the barrier, the large white birds sit on their nests. It is the end of May. While some gannets still cradle and warm their single egg with their large feet, other breeding pairs already have chicks in their nests. Some are tiny, others are already so big that the nest is getting crowded.

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links.

The Kings of the Cliffs: Northern Gannets

They are impossible to miss: the majestic northern gannets (Morus bassanus, sailing over the sea with a wingspan of almost two meters. Their snow-white bodies, black wing tips, and yellowish heads make them striking creatures. Heligoland is the only place in Germany where these large seabirds breed – and only since 1991. There are now over 1,500 breeding pairs.

Northern gannets do not reach sexual maturity until they are about five years old. Once they have mated, they remain together for life. They also return to the same nesting site year after year and continue to expand it. This results in impressive nests that can weigh more than 50 kilograms over the years, with a high proportion of non-biodegradable plastic.

Northern gannets form strong pair bonds. Every time they return to the nest, the partners greet each other affectionately: they rub their beaks together and preen each other's feathers – a touching sight that offers great photo opportunities.

Tips for Nature Observers and Photographers

All seabird species that nest on the cliffs come to the island only to breed and raise their chicks. They spend most of their lives on the open sea. The best time to observe the seabirds breeding is between May and July. Mid-June offers a very special highlight: the “loon dive.” This is when the young guillemots, which are not yet able to fly, jump off the cliffs into the water. The Jordsand Association offers special guided tours at this time of year.

The “guillemot rock” can be visited via the developed cliff-edge path. Binoculars and a telephoto lens are useful for seeing the details of the more distant nests of the guillemots and razorbills. The gannet nests extend right up to the fence at the edge of the path, where you can observe the birds at close range. Photographers can actually use a wide-angle lens here and experiment with new perspectives.

As always with wildlife photography, it pays to bring time and patience. This is the only way to recognize the different behaviors of the animals and have the opportunity to experience them at different times of the day or in different weather conditions. For example, the colony behaves very differently in windy conditions than in stagnant heat. They are much more active in windy conditions, while in hot weather, they hold their open beaks up, pant, and no longer warm their chicks. Then you can see chicks of all sizes. The wind direction also plays a role in photo opportunities, because the gannets always land into the wind. When the wind is blowing onshore, they stand above the observation platforms for quite a while and can be photographed very well in flight. But be careful, you can quickly get white spots on your clothes.

What's more, if you have plenty of time and space on your memory card, Lummenfelsen on Heligoland offers great opportunities for creative photography or simply trying something new:

• High-key shots during the glaring midday light
• Low-key shots and backlit shots
• Detailed images of feathers, eyes, claws
• Multiple exposures
• Empty space
• Photographing through grass or bushes or partially covering the lens with something (flowers, feathers, prisms)

Bring enough drinks and something to eat. It's a good 800 meters to the nearest restaurant or Edeka supermarket, and also to the nearest restroom. Don't forget sunscreen and wind protection, because there is no shade and nowhere to take shelter on the cliff-edge path. Only in the neighboring meadow can you find some wind protection in the hollows of the terrain.

Here are a few of my favorite pictures:

Plastic Waste in the Seabird Colony

Helgoland is unique. Located 60 kilometers from the mainland, the island lies in the middle of the fish-rich currents of the German Bight—a hotspot for marine biodiversity. Here, seabirds find food in the form of shoals of fish and crustaceans. The red sandstone cliffs offer them a safe breeding ground, free from land predators. It is precisely because Helgoland is so isolated that Germany's only seabird colony has been able to thrive here.

Despite the beauty of the Lummenfelsen, Helgoland also has a tragic side. The northern gannets build their nests from natural materials such as algae, seaweed, and tufts of grass – but unfortunately also from plastic debris and fragments of nets. I can see into the nests from close up. I can clearly make out the orange and blue fibers of polypropylene ropes, remnants of fishing nets, and plastic strings. What looks like colorful decoration is deadly: time and again, adult and young birds get tangled up in it. The nets cut deep into their flesh or lead to an agonizing death by strangulation or starvation. Many seabirds also mistake plastic for food and feed it to their chicks, which then starve to death with full stomachs.

According to expert estimates, around 60 northern gannets and 100 guillemots die each year on Helgoland as a result of fishing net debris. The consequences range from injuries and organ failure to massive losses in breeding success. Intervention is usually not possible because if one were to approach the nests to rescue an animal, neighboring chicks would flee in panic and possibly fall to their deaths.

Other Species inhabiting the Cliffs: Guillemots, Razorbills, Kittiwakes, and Fulmars

The Guillemot (Uria aalge) is the namesake of Lummenfelsen. From a distance, they resemble small penguins, although they are capable of flight. They lay their eggs directly on the rocks without building a nest. The pear-shaped shape of the egg prevents it from rolling down. The colony is crowded, with loud calls and frantic fluttering. But amid the sounds of life, I also see several dead guillemots dangling in nylon nets at the edge of the cliff. The birds have become entangled in the plastic fibers and now hang as a silent memorial just a few meters from the path.

A little away from the guillemots, a few razorbills (Alca torda) nest. They are easily recognizable by their deep black color and the striking white stripe along their beaks. Razorbills have been breeding on Helgoland since the 1980s, using small piles of stones as nests. Kittiwakes (Rissa tridactyla) also belong to the breeding community on Helgoland's cliffs. In Germany, they breed exclusively on Helgoland and build small nests in sheltered niches, often made of algae and grass. But they also use plastic when they find it. Among the gulls, I also see a few fulmars (Fulmarus glacialis), elegant North Sea sailors with gray wings and a booming call.

Protective Measures for the Seabirds

Helgoland and its bird cliffs are under strict protection. The Lummenfelsen is part of a nature reserve, and visitors are guided along fixed paths; feeding the animals, drones, and climbing are prohibited. Research stations such as the “Institute for Bird Research” and initiatives such as the “Jordsand” association are committed to monitoring, litter collection campaigns, and education. Some of the net traps on the cliffs are removed regularly — a laborious but important contribution.

In addition, the EU is committed to reducing plastic waste and “ghost nets” – lost or deliberately discarded fishing nets that continue to catch and kill fish – as part of its Marine Strategy Framework Directive. However, as long as fishing waste and other plastic waste continue to end up in the sea, the problem will remain acute. Everyone can help – whether through plastic-free consumption, donations, or education.

Practical Information

Getting there

In summer, you can travel to Helgoland with the Halunderjet operated by FRS-Helgoline from Hamburg or Cuxhaven. The Cassen-Eils shipping company operates services from Cuxhaven, Bremerhaven, Büsum, and Langeoog. In winter, only the Cassen Eils shipping company's boat operates from Cuxhaven. From November onwards, travel to Helgoland is only possible from Cuxhaven with the Cassein Eils shipping company.

I traveled from Hamburg to Helgoland on the Halunderjet. The ship even had USB ports at the seats and a snack bar. At the landing stages, you can book a luggage service for a few euros. Then your luggage is taken directly from the ship to your accommodation. I had my bag taken to the Düne campsite. It took a while, so I used the time to take my first walk on the beach.

Accommodation

I definitely recommend staying on Helgoland for several days. I had planned three days for the northern gannets, and due to varying weather conditions (wind, wind direction, temperature), the behavior of the northern gannets was different each time.

Accommodation on the main island is extremely expensive. The best chance of getting good prices is to book very early (many months in advance) or to get a room at the youth hostel early on. If you want to book your accommodation on Booking.com , I would receive a small commission if you book via this affiliate link, and you would be helping me to run Fernweh-Motive. It won't cost you any more.

If you missed out on booking early but don't want to wait until next year, you can pitch your tent on the neighboring island of Düne. You'll need sand pegs and extra guy ropes, as it can get very windy. Protect your camera equipment from the sand. There is a charging station for cell phones and camera batteries at the campsite. However, the ten sockets are usually occupied and not all of them work. There are additional sockets in the lounge building at the harbor. Here you can sit comfortably and eat the snacks you brought with you. There is no kitchen at the campsite. So I was glad I brought my stove, which ensured my coffee supply in the morning.

One disadvantage of staying overnight on the dune is that you are tied to the dune ferry schedule and therefore miss the early and late light at Lummenfelsen. Tickets for the round trip cost €6 (as of 2025). One advantage is that you are close to the gray seals, which sometimes lie on the beach right in front of the campsite.

Luggage Storage

On the main island, there is free luggage storage at the Dünefähre ferry ticket office.

Food

On the main island, there is an Edeka supermarket and numerous restaurants in both the upper and lower regions. However, many of them do not open until the ships with day visitors arrive in the late morning/around noon. There are two restaurants and a small shop in the airport building on the dune.

Other Activities in the Area

• Other Activities in the Area
• Themed trails around the island for your own discoveries (history, culture, nature, architecture)
• Guided tours: island tour, nature tours, bunker tour, dune tour, lobster station, tour of the fishing garden of the Institute for Bird Research, historical urban tour
• Helgoland Museum with original replicas of lobster huts and lighthouse
• Bunker tunnels in the lowlands
• Watching seals on the neighboring island of Düne

Book Recommendations for Birdwatchers

Want to delve deeper into the hobby of birdwatching? Then I have three book recommendations for you. You can order the books* from Amazon by clicking on the images. If you purchase a book or other item via an affiliate link, I will receive a small commission and you will help me to continue filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be any more expensive for you.

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you want to go birdwatching right away? Then check out my article about Birdwatching in the Pond Landscape Linum and about Neuwerk Island - Birdwatching in the Hamburg Wadden Sea .

Der Beitrag Helgoland Vogelfotografie – Basstölpel und andere Seevögel am Lummenfelsen erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Germany. In the middle of the Hamburg Wadden Sea National Park, around 100 kilometers from Hamburg City Hall, lies the small island of Neuwerk. Neuwerk is a fascinating birdwatching destination, especially in May, when the weather slowly gets warmer and life in the coastal landscape blossoms. This month marks the breeding season for many species, while at the same time, some migratory birds stop off on the island on their way to their Nordic breeding grounds.

Neuwerk: a Habitat between Sea and Marsh

Neuwerk is only about 3 square kilometers in size, but it is of inestimable ecological value. The island is surrounded by extensive salt marshes, tidal creeks, and mudflats. The tides set the rhythm: Twice a day, the mudflats disappear under water, twice a day they are exposed. This dynamic creates ideal conditions for a variety of bird species, such as the oystercatcher, avocet, and spoonbill. The island itself is characterized by extensively used grassland, old terps, a historic lighthouse, and an open, wide landscape in which the gaze can wander - until it catches sight of the next flock of birds. Or one of the many horses that live here, more than the island's population.

Only around 32 people live on the island on a permanent basis, mainly from tourism. Every year, Neuwerk attracts around 120,000 visitors who appreciate the peace and quiet, walks in the sea breeze, and the vastness of the mudflats and sea.

The Hamburg Wadden Sea

The Hamburg Wadden Sea is the smallest of the three German Wadden Sea National Parks. It comprises the island of Neuwerk, the uninhabited island of Scharhörn, and the island of Nigehörn, all of which are subject to strict protection regulations. The Hamburg Wadden Sea National Park, founded in 1990, serves to preserve valuable habitats characterized by tides, salt marshes, tidal creeks, and mudflats. Due to its ecological importance, the Wadden Sea is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and World Heritage Site. The national park is divided into two zones: zone 1 is reserved for nature, while zone 2 is for sustainable living and economic activity.

Bird Diversity on Neuwerk: Breeding Birds & Migrants

TIP: Before you go birdwatching, I recommend a visit to the Neuwerk National Park House. Here you will not only learn lots of interesting facts about the habitat, but also get tips for birdwatching and can take a small map of Neuwerk with you.

So far, over 300 bird species have been recorded in the national park. There is always something to observe or even discover, and Neuwerk is a great birdwatching destination at any time of year. However, thousands of brent and barnacle geese rest on the island during the “goose weeks” during the main migration period. During this time, additional events are held on Neuwerk in April and May on topics relating to geese, bird migration, and nature conservation. May is a very good month for birdwatching on Neuwerk. In addition to the migratory birds, numerous breeding birds are already busy incubating their eggs or even rearing their young, including oystercatchers, avocets, redshanks, various gull species such as the black-headed gull and herring gull, spoonbills, sandwich terns, arctic terns and common terns, eider ducks and greylag geese.

At the same time, some migratory birds are still on Neuwerk, stopping off on the island on their way to the Arctic breeding grounds. Brent geese, barnacle geese, and shelducks are resting on the salt marshes, sometimes in large flocks. Bar-tailed godwits, knots, curlews, dunlins, greenshanks, and other waders use the mudflats to forage.

Excursion to the Bird Island of Scharhörn

The island of Scharhörn is a strictly protected bird sanctuary. Anyone wishing to visit the island must register with the island's bird warden before setting off on the mudflat hike. The approximately two-hour, seven-kilometer hike is only possible at low tide. The route is marked with bush pegs and shows the safest route through the open mudflats. On Scharhörn itself, there are no fixed paths, no houses, no tourist infrastructure - just a dune island surrounded by salt marshes where thousands of seabirds breed. More information can be found here. The national park administration, the Jordsand association, and mudflat guides offer guided hikes. Wadden wagons also travel to Scharhörn by arrangement. Information on this can be obtained from the wagon operators. here. Die Nationalpark-Verwaltung, der Verein Jordsand und Wattführer bieten geführte Wanderungen an. Nach Vereinbarung fahren auch Wattwagen nach Scharhörn. Informationen hierzu gibt es bei den Wattwagenbetreibern.

Not to be missed: the Neuwerk Lighthouse

The Neuwerk lighthouse is not only the most important landmark on the island of Neuwerk, but is also the oldest surviving structure in Hamburg and the oldest secular building on the German coast. It was built between 1300 and 1310 as a defensive tower to protect the mouth of the Elbe from pirates and plunderers and to safeguard Hamburg's important trade via the waterway. Over the centuries, the tower served not only as a defense tower, but also as a refuge during storm surges and as a landmark for shipping.

On December 20, 1814, the tower was officially converted into a lighthouse. Initially, the beacon was powered by a 5-wick kerosene lamp. In 1942, a switch was made to electricity, with the light being focused using 21 parabolic mirrors arranged in a circle. The lighthouse has been out of service as an official navigation mark since February 2014, but is still operated by the Hamburg Port Authority as a so-called “private light”.

Today, Neuwerk Lighthouse is a listed building and a popular excursion destination. Visitors can climb the 138 steps to the viewing platform and enjoy an impressive view over the island and the Wadden Sea. You can even spend the night in the historic lighthouse.

As a Guest in Nature - Visiting Rules

We are only guests in nature. The following applies: Leave no traces except your footprints. Don't disturb or destroy anything. Quite simple, isn't it? If you want to know more, take a look at my article “Leave No Trace!” . The following applies to your visit to the Wadden Sea National Park:

• Stay on the marked paths.
• In the foreshore (the area outside the dykes), birds breed in the meadows. Do not go cross-country, watch out for nests, and stay on the paths.
• Dogs must be kept on a lead outside the dykes.
• Keep your distance from the animals.
• No drones, kites or other flying objects are permitted in Zone 1 of the national park.
• Do you see an animal in distress? Report it to the Jordsand Association or the National Park Station.

Getting there: on foot, by Wagon, by Boat or on Horseback

The island can be reached depending on the tide - either on a mudflat walk with an experienced guide or on your own (approx. 2.5-3 hours) or by horse-drawn carriage (the “Wadden Wagon”). During high tide, the MS Flipper sails from Cuxhaven to Neuwerk. Information on departures can be found on the website of the Cassen Eils shipping company.

I traveled both routes with the horse-drawn carriage from The old Fisher House and really enjoyed the 1.5-hour ride. As you don't move around much on the carriage, I was very happy to have a warm jacket, scarf, and hat.

Mudflat hiking from Sahlenburg to Neuwerk

A mudflat hike from Sahlenburg (Cuxhaven) to the island of Neuwerk is a unique nature experience, but one that requires careful preparation and observance of safety rules.

The route is around 11 kilometers long and takes around 2.5 to 3 hours at a normal walking pace. The exact duration depends on various factors, including personal fitness, the weather, and the nature of the seabed. Sometimes you have to wade through water for longer stretches.

Safety first: Rules for a safe Mudflat Hike

Find out about the tides, the weather, and the planned route before you go into the mudflats! Otherwise, your life could be in danger! There is a rescue station in Sahlenburg where you can get the necessary information.

• Prefer guided tours: Due to the dangers of tidal flats, fog, and rapidly rising water, mudflat walks should be undertaken with local guides. For up-to-date information and bookings for guided mudflat walks, you can contact local providers such as Wattwandern Neuwerk..
• Note the weather conditions: In fog, thunderstorms or storms, entering the mudflats is life-threatening.
• Know the tides: Start the hike about two hours before the lowest water level to avoid being surprised by the tide. Don't set off if you are too late!
• In Zone 1 of the national park, you are only allowed to hike on the mudflats and ride horses along the marked paths.
• Emergency precautions: Find out about rescue beacons and emergency numbers. Carry a fully charged cell phone with you.
• First aid kit: Take it with you! If you walk barefoot, you will quickly cut yourself on the shells.

The right Equipment and Clothing

• Footwear: Sturdy, closed shoes with sturdy soles are ideal to avoid cuts from shells. For example, sneakers with socks or special wading or neoprene shoes are suitable. We do not recommend rubber boots (they will fill up as the water is often deep), sandals, or walking barefoot.
• Clothing: Wear weatherproof, breathable clothing. A windproof and waterproof jacket and a warm sweater are also necessary in summer. Quick-drying shorts or light trousers/leggings are suitable. Pants must be able to be pushed up above the knees.
• Sun protection: The mudflats reflect the sun's rays strongly. Sunscreen with a high sun protection factor, headgear, and sunglasses are therefore important.
• Take along: Pack a towel, drinks, and snacks.

TIP:
Are you looking for binoculars? I am very happy with the Zeiss Terra ED 8×42* . They are handy and even waterproof. Perfect for birdwatching on the island of Neuwerk when the weather is a bit rougher.
(Affiliate link to Amazon)

Riding on Neuwerk and in the Wadden Sea

Horse riding on Neuwerk and in the surrounding Wadden Sea is an integral part of island life. Guided rides across the extensive salt marshes or through the mudflats are particularly popular - at low tide you can even venture on horseback to the mainland or the island of Scharhörn.

The special climatic conditions, the salty air and the mineral-rich mudflats make Neuwerk a beneficial retreat not only for people but also for horses. In fact, the island is regarded by connoisseurs as a kind of “health resort for horses”: many riders bring their animals to the island in summer to relax. The species-appropriate husbandry on spacious paddocks, the fresh sea air, and the exercise on soft mudflats promote health, especially in the case of respiratory diseases or joint problems. Neuwerk thus offers a rare combination of nature experience, riding pleasure, and veterinary recovery.

Accommodation and Restaurants on Neuwerk

Despite its small size, Neuwerk offers several places to stay overnight, such as the “Alte Fischerhaus”, Haus Seeblick, the “Nige Hus” inn or the “Hus achtern Diek”. If you prefer a more rustic experience, you can also book into the hay hotel or pitch your tent on the meadow at the hotels. The hotels serve home-style cooking and regional dishes. There is a small island store and a restaurant in front of the Leutturm.

Book Recommendations for Birdwatchers

Want to delve deeper into the hobby of birdwatching? Then I have three book recommendations for you. You can order the books* from Amazon by clicking on the images. If you purchase a book or other item via an affiliate link, I will receive a small commission and you will help me to continue filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be any more expensive for you.

Do you have any comments or suggestions about my article? If yes, then write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you want to go birdwatching right away? Then check out my article about Birdwatching in the Pond Landscape Linum and about Birdwatching at Myvatn in Iceland .

Der Beitrag Insel Neuwerk – Birdwatching im Hamburger Wattenmeer erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

New Zealand. Ulva Island is one of the best birdwatching destinations in New Zealand. Located in Rakiura National Park off the coast of Stewart Island, the predator-free island is a safe haven for many of the country's endangered native bird species. With high hopes and my camera in my backpack, I set off for this pristine birding paradise, hoping to see species that are difficult to find on the New Zealand mainland.

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links.

Why is Ulva Island a special Habitat for Birds?

Ulva Island offers one of the few remaining places in New Zealand where native bird species can live without the threat of introduced predators such as rats or weasels. Unlike many other places, there are no feral cats or loose dogs here. The island is covered with dense, ancient forests characterized by tree ferns, rimu, and totara trees. There is also a wide variety of insects, fruits, and seeds, which provide a rich source of food for the birdlife. Thanks to intensive conservation work and the eradication of invasive species, many of New Zealand's endangered bird species have found a safe habitat here, which attracts numerous amateur ornithologists and bird photographers every year. Ulva Island is one of the best birdwatching destinations in New Zealand. Located in Rakiura National Park off the coast of Stewart Island, the predator-free island is a safe haven for many of the country's endangered native bird species. With high hopes and my camera in my backpack, I set off for this pristine birding paradise, hoping to see species that are difficult to find on the New Zealand mainland.

History of Ulva Island

The Māori knew Ulva Island long before European settlement. In their language, the island is called Te Wharawhara, named after a local fern species (Pneumatopteris pennigera) that grows there in large numbers. For the Ngāi Tahu, Ulva Island was an important place for fishing, hunting, and gathering. The surrounding waters are rich in seafood, and the dense forests provide valuable resources such as wood, medicinal plants, and bird feathers. In addition, the island was considered a place of spiritual peace and contemplation - a place closely connected to the natural world and the mauri (spirit of life).

With the arrival of Europeans in the 19th century, the use of the island changed. It served as a post station for a time, and a small settlement was established. At the same time, the European settlers began to introduce invasive species such as rats, which severely disrupted the island's delicate ecological balance. Many native bird species, which had no natural enemies, were threatened as a result.

In the 1990s, a comprehensive initiative was launched to restore Ulva Island's original flora and fauna. The New Zealand government declared it part of the Rakiura National Park and successfully removed invasive species.

The Stars of the Island

Thanks to the successful conservation measures, visitors can discover a variety of unique bird species while birdwatching on Ulva Island, including:

Stewart Island Robin(Petroica australismaori: Toutouwai)

After just a few minutes, the first little Robin appeared. He boldly hopped around right in front of my feet, as if he wanted to examine me curiously. These trusting birds are a real highlight and hard to miss despite their inconspicuous gray-black coloring. These curious little birds often hop close to the paths and watch visitors almost as closely as the other way around.

Saddleback (Philesturnus carunculatus, Tieke)

A faint rustling sound drew my gaze downwards, where I spotted a saddleback foraging. Its black plumage with the saddle patch and the bright orange cheek patch made it easy to recognize. Its distinctive, loud call is a typical sound on Ulva Island. Two days later, when I was birdwatching on Ulva Island again, I saw the saddle-billed bird foraging in exactly the same place.

Kaka (Nestor meridionalis)

A pair of Kaka parrots was moving about in the treetops. The parrots seemed to be playfully teasing each other while screeching loudly.

Alongside the kea, the kaka is the second species of nestor parrot still alive in New Zealand. The animals are curious and intelligent. They are known for their ability to imitate sounds.

Yellowhead (Mohoua ochrocephala, Mohua)

The mohua is a rare New Zealand songbird which, with its bright yellow head and lively voice, is one of the most impressive representatives of the native bird world. It belongs to the Mohouidae family and is endemic to the South Island of New Zealand, where it prefers to live in old, semi-natural beech forests. Mohuas are sociable birds that often travel in small groups and search together for insects, larvae, and spiders, which they skillfully find in bark crevices and under mosses.

Red-fronted Parakeet (Cyanoramphus novaezelandiaeKakariki)

The Red-fronted Parakeet, also known as the New Zealand Parakeet, is a bright green parrot with a striking red forehead spot, which is one of New Zealand's characteristic bird species. It was once widespread on both main islands as well as on many smaller islands. It owes its unusual German name to its “bleating” call and the way it moves on the ground with quick jumps and climbing movements, similar to a goat.

Kiwi (Apteryx australis lawryi, Rakiura Tokoeka):

Although nocturnal, kiwis can sometimes be spotted in daylight - a special feature of the Rakiura subspecies. I planned a separate night walk on Stewart Island for kiwi observations. Unfortunately, there are no photos.

The southern striped kiwi, a subspecies of the southern kiwi (Apteryx australis), is a nocturnal, flightless bird and probably one of New Zealand's best-known symbols. With its long, down-curved beak, shaggy brown plumage, and plump build, the kiwi almost looks like an animal relic from another time, which is not far from the truth. As a ground dweller , A. a. lawryi mainly inhabits the south-western rainforests of Stewart Island (Rakiura) and is characterized by its extraordinary adaptation to nocturnal life on the forest floor.

Weka (Gallirallus australis)

The Weka, or Weka for short, is a flightless, curious, and often quite bold bird that is found exclusively in New Zealand. With its strong beak, brown streaked feathers, and striking red eyes, it looks like a cross between a chicken and a game bird - and is actually closely related to rails. Wekas live in a variety of habitats, including dense forests, bushland, grasslands, and even near the coast, especially on the South Island and some offshore islands.

Their behavior is particularly striking: wekas are known to steal anything portable - shiny objects, tools, picnic utensils - which makes them an amusing, sometimes annoying, companion for hikers. They are omnivorous, feeding on fruits, seeds, and roots as well as insects, small reptiles, and even carrion. Despite their adaptability, they are endangered in some regions, having been decimated by introduced predators, habitat loss, and occasional road accidents.

Tui (Prosthemadera novaeseelandiae)

The New Zealand Tui honeyeater is a strikingly colored honeyeater with shimmering metallic, dark green-blue plumage, a white throat pouch, and an amazing voice. It belongs to the honeyeater family (Meliphagidae) and is native to both main islands and some offshore islands of New Zealand. Tui inhabit a wide variety of habitats - from coastal forests and wetlands to parks, gardens, and urban green spaces - and play an important role as pollinators of many endemic plant species such as kōwhai and flax.Meliphagidae) und ist auf beiden Hauptinseln sowie einigen vorgelagerten Inseln Neuseelands heimisch. Tuis bewohnen verschiedenste Lebensräume – von Küstenwäldern und Feuchtgebieten über Parks und Gärten bis hin zu städtischen Grünflächen – und spielen eine wichtige Rolle als Bestäuber vieler endemischer Pflanzenarten wie der Kōwhai oder der Flachsgewächse.

The tui is particularly well known for its complex, almost electronic-sounding vocal repertoire. Not only can it produce a variety of natural sounds, it can also imitate other birds, human voices, and noises - often with breathtaking precision. In Maori culture, the tui is regarded as a sacred bird, messenger, and symbol of expressiveness and eloquence. It owes its name to its two-syllable, bell-like call, which can often be heard, especially during the mating season.

Bellbird (Anthornis melanura, Korimako)

These melodious singers are omnipresent and, together with the tui honeyeaters, provide a natural soundscape during the visit. As honeyeaters with brush-like tongues that enable them to suck nectar and honeydew from the trunks of beech trees, they play an important role in the pollination of numerous plants.

Best Time to go Birdwatching on Ulva Island

The best time for birdwatching on Ulva Island is New Zealand spring and summer, from September to March. During these months, the birds are particularly active as they mate, nest, and raise their young. Many endemic species, such as the South Island saddlebird, the cocoa parrot or the curious weka can be easily observed. The birdlife is particularly lively in the early morning or late afternoon, as many species search for food at these times. Ulva Island is also an excellent place for birdwatching outside the breeding season, as the island is inhabited by rare and endangered species all year round.

Guided Birdwatching Tours and self-guided Hikes

There are numerous ways to explore Ulva Island:

• Guided tours:Experienced guides offer exciting insights into the island's unique wildlife and history. These tours are particularly recommended for spotting rare bird species and learning interesting facts about the ecosystem and its history. Ulva Island has a rich cultural history and significance to the Māori people, who call the island ‘Te Wharawhara’. The guides also know the favorite places of the different bird species.
• Self-guided walks: There are well-marked walking trails that lead through the forest or along the coast. The paths are easy to follow and allow for individual exploration tours. Maps are available on Stewart Island or can be viewed at the landing stage on Ulva Island.: Es gibt gut ausgeschilderte Wanderwege, die durch den Wald oder an der Küste entlang führen. Die Wege sind einfach zu begehen und ermöglichen individuelle Erkundungstouren. Karten sind in Stewart Island erhältlich oder an der Anlegestelle auf Ulva Island einsehbar.

Rules of Conduct for Visitors

To ensure the protection of birdlife, you should observe the following rules:

• Stay on the marked paths to avoid disturbing sensitive habitats.
• Do not feed any animals - not even the curious Weka.
• Avoid making loud noises so as not to frighten the birds.
• Take all garbage back with you to keep the island clean.
• Wear clean shoes to prevent the introduction of foreign seeds or diseases.

Practical Tips for your Birdwatching Visit to Ulva Island

Ulva Island is only accessible by boat from Stewart Island. Water cabs and guided tours depart regularly from Golden Bay on Stewart Island. The crossing takes around five to ten minutes. There is no accommodation on Ulva Island, so visitors need to plan day trips. As there is no café or store on the island, it is important to carry sufficient water and provisions.

The Magic of Ulva Island - a final Word

Apart from the birds, I was impressed by the untouched nature. Huge fern trees, ancient rimu and totara trees, and moss cushions created a fairytale atmosphere. As I walked through the forest, I felt like I was in a bygone era.

At the end of the day, I returned with countless memories. Ulva Island is more than a place for birdwatching - it is a journey back in time to a world where nature can thrive undisturbed.Practical tips for your birdwatching visit to Ulva Island

Book Recommendations for New Zealand

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love remote places and lonely landscapes as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my article Photographing Madeira – the best Photo Locations for Nature Lovers and my article Leave No Trace! Principles for Nature-friendly Outdoor Life.

Der Beitrag Birdwatching auf Ulva Island, Neuseeland erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Norway. Most people travel to Nordkapp to take selfies of themselves and the polar sphere. I went to Nordkapp to photograph birds. A boat tour takes me to the bird cliff Gjesværstappan, a birdwatching paradise. More than a million puffins and thousands of other seabirds live here. Several sea eagles have also taken a liking to the land of milk and honey on the Arctic rocky islands.

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links.

Birdwatching by Boat to Gjesværstappan

The boat tour to the bird cliffs starts in the small fishing village of Gjesvær, about 15 kilometers west of Nordkapp. The Birdsafari team sails to the Gjesværstappan bird cliffs three times a day in summer. They know the waters and know exactly where the nesting sites of the various seabird species are. The professionals also know that it can get cold on the boat during the two-hour tour in the winds of the Barents Sea. Therefore, every guest can borrow a warm overall.

A Sea of Puffins

After just a few minutes drive, we spot the first puffins on the water. Soon there are more and more and at some point the entire surface of the water is covered with puffins and other seabirds right up to the horizon. They fly up as soon as our boat gets too close. I look after the birds, up into the sky. Countless birds are circling around the rocks, almost as many as there are swimming on the sea. I don't even know where to look first... maybe at the sea eagle flying through the picture?

Gjesværstappan on the North Cape is one of Norway's largest Bird Cliffs

Gjesværstappan is home to one of Norway's largest seabird colonies with millions of birds from over 20 different species. The archipelago offers some of the best birdwatching opportunities in the far north. The number of breeding birds is impressive. This is partly due to the good feeding grounds that the sea provides here. Warm and cold ocean currents meet here in the Barents Sea, so the sea is rich in nutrients.

Gjesværstappan is an archipelago in the Norwegian province of Troms og Finnmark, northwest of the small fishing village of Gjesvær on the island of Magerøya near Nordkapp. The archipelago consists of three main islands that rise high and steeply out of the sea: Storstappen (283 m), Kjerkestappen (166 m) and Bukkstappen (92 m). In addition to the main islands, smaller rocks are jutting out of the water that are also used as nesting sites. Most birds nest on Storstappen, the largest of the three islands. In addition to countless birds, there are also traces of human settlement on the islands dating back thousands of years. There was once even a church on Kjerkestappen.

The islands are an ornithological jewel and an important breeding ground for numerous seabirds. The fish-rich waters of the Barents Sea offer the best conditions for seabirds. In the summer months, when the midnight sun lights up the horizon, the islands are a hive of activity. The steep cliffs and secluded islands provide an ideal habitat that is largely protected from humans and predators. Unless the predator comes from the air, such as sea eagles or skuas.

The Seabirds on Gjesværstappan

Due to the remote location and the low level of human disturbance, countless species of seabirds have been able to settle here. In addition to the puffins, we soon see guillemots, black guillemots, razorbills, cormorants, shags, gannets, and several sea eagles. In between, we repeatedly spot kittiwakes, great black-backed gulls, and herring gulls. If you are lucky, you may also spot fulmars, little auks, or skuas, which often hunt smaller seabirds or steal their food.

The main bird species on Gjesværstappan are

Puffins - the Clowns of the Sea

The “clowns of the sea” are the stars of the island. The puffins have their colonies on the islands of Storstappen and Kirkstappan. They nest in burrows that they dig into the ground. The colony has more than one million animals, including young and non-breeding puffins. This makes it one of the largest puffin colonies in Europe.

Northern gannets

The elegant northern gannets with their distinctive yellowish-white heads attract attention with their acrobatic flying maneuvers and steep dives. Gannets were first sighted on Gjesværstappan in the 1980s. Since then, one of Norway's largest gannet colonies has developed here. Today, around 1200 pairs build their nests on the Staurspira promontory. The large, elegant birds also use the remains of fishing nets, which they fish out of the water. On closer inspection of the pictures, I could not only see fluffy chicks, but also that the nets have become the doom of one or two animals.

Common guillemots

The guillemot is represented by up to 650 breeding pairs. The thick-billed guillemot also used to nest here. However, the population has not survived here. The pressure from the sea eagles may have been too high.

Razorbill

The razorbill nests are hidden between rock crevices and are more difficult to see. The population is estimated at 2500 pairs.

Common Sandpiper

The sandpiper nests on Gjesværstappan in the fall and winter. Normally, sandpipers breed like all other birds. In spring and summer. However, to avoid gulls and other predatory birds, the little sandpiper is nocturnal and only flies to its nest at night. Due to the constant light of the midnight sun in the Arctic, it would have no chance of successfully raising its young. Only from September, when it gets dark again at night, does the white-tailed eagle begin to breed.

White-tailed eagle

During the breeding season, the cliffs must be a haven for birds of prey. As a result, numerous white-tailed eagles live around Gjesværstappan. Sometimes up to 30 eagles can be seen in the air at the same time. Most of them are non-breeding juveniles, which can be easily recognized by their plumage.

King Penguins in Norway?

There is a curious historical anecdote about the islands. In the 1936s, king penguins from South America were released on the bird cliffs of Gjesværstappan - an ambitious but ultimately unsuccessful experiment. The idea was to establish a colony of these majestic birds in the region, which could then be used as an additional source of food. However, the animals disappeared after just one week. They were probably simply caught and eaten. Today, there are only a few historical records and stories of this episode.

Protective Measures for the Seabirds

Due to its importance as a nesting area, Gjesværstappan has been designated as a nature reserve since 1983 and is also protected as an Important Bird Area. The protected area covers an area of 7.1 square kilometers, of which around 1.7 square kilometers is land. The islands can be visited by excursion boats. However, it is not permitted to enter the islands between June 15 and August 15.

The Gjesværstappan nature reserve is managed by the Norwegian Directorate for Nature Conservation and the local municipality. In addition to monitoring the bird population, the nature conservation efforts focus on controlling invasive species. Through sustainable birdwatching tourism and scientific monitoring, the aim is to ensure that Gjesværstappan remains a safe place for countless seabirds in the future.

Getting there and Birdwatching Boat Tours to Gjesværstappan

The best starting point for exploring Gjesværstappan is the village of Gjesvær, about 35 kilometers west of the North Cape. The easiest way to get there is to drive from Honningsvåg, the nearest town with a small airport with flights from Oslo and Tromsø and a harbor where the Hurtigruten dock. A scenic road leads from Honningsvåg to Gjesvær. The Hurtigruten offers organized bus tours to the islands.

Most guided boat tours depart from the harbor in Gjesvær and take about 1.5 to 2 hours. During the tour, the boat brings visitors close enough to the cliffs to observe the birds without disturbing the sensitive breeding colonies. Some providers offer tours specifically geared towards photography, with longer stops at the best observation points.

The best time for birdwatching at Gjesværstappan is from May to August, when the breeding season is in full swing and the birds are particularly active on the islands.

Conclusion: a Paradise for Birdwatchers

Gjesværstappan is a true birdwatching paradise for bird lovers and photographers. The variety of seabirds, the breathtaking landscape, and the opportunity to observe rare species at close range make a visit an unforgettable experience. Thanks to strict conservation measures, this natural jewel will hopefully be preserved so that future generations can also experience the impressive birdlife of these islands.

Other Sights and Activities in the Region

North Cape: A trip to the North Cape is almost obligatory if you are already in the region. It is the northernmost point of mainland Europe and offers impressive panoramas and a visitor center.

Experience Sami culture: The Finnmark region is home to the Sami, Norway's indigenous people. Visitors can learn more about Sami culture and traditions here, e.g. in Honningsvåg or through Sami craft stores and museums.

Midnight sun: From the end of May to the end of July, the sun never sets in this region. The “white nights” offer a unique nature experience and allow bird watching in exceptional light conditions.

Book recommendations for Norway

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love the north as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about my Husky Guide Training – Two Months with Hetta Huskies in Finland or about Trekking on the Laugavegur in Iceland.

Der Beitrag Birdwatching in Norwegen: Insel Gjesværstappan am Nordkapp erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Japan. Hokkaido, the northernmost island in Japan, is a fascinating destination for observing and photographing cranes. Especially in winter, the red-crowned cranes gather in large groups in the east of Hokkaido and attract birdwatchers and wildlife photographers from all over the world. Where can you see red-crowned cranes in Hokkaido? How can you take good photos without disturbing the cranes? This article introduces places in Hokkaido where you are sure to see cranes. You will also learn interesting facts about these elegant birds and what is being done to protect them.

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links.

The Red-crowned Crane - The “God of the Wetlands”

The Manchurian Crane (Grus japonensis) - also known as the Japanese Crane or Red-Crowned Crane - is a symbol of good luck and longevity in Japanese culture and is one of the most elegant and rarest crane species in the world. It is also the symbol of the Kushiro wetlands in Hokkaido. In the language of the indigenous Ainu people, the crane is called “sarorun-kamuy”, which means “god of the wetlands”. Tancho is the Japanese name for these magnificent birds, which are one of the most beautiful and largest crane species in the world. It is known for its snow-white plumage, black wings, and its distinctive red spot on the forehead, which also gave it its English name “Red-Crowned Crane”. Interestingly, the patch is not made of red feathers but of skin and becomes larger and brighter when the crane is excited. Like other crane species, the Manchurian crane is known for its graceful movements and complex courtship dances, in which the couple jumps in sync and poses with flapping wings.

Facts about the Red-crowned Crane

• Distribution: North-East Asia; mainly in Russia, China, and Japan
• Habitat: Wet meadows, marshes, rice fields
• Body size: about 150 cm
• Weight: 7.5 to 10.5 kg
• Life expectancy: 30 to 70 years
• Social behavior: Lives in pairs or small groups, forms large flocks during migration
• Reproduction: Monogamous species, builds large nests, usually 2 eggs per brood, incubation period approx. 29-34 days

What do Origami Cranes symbolize?

Cranes are revered as a symbol of peace, happiness, success, and longevity. They stand for the protection of the family and the weakest in our society. In Japan, origami cranes are given as gifts to wish the person health, happiness, well-being, and prosperity, for example in the event of a birth or illness.

Successful Conservation Measures save the Red-crowned Crane from Extinction

The number of red-crowned cranes in Japan has fallen sharply due to the development of farmland and overhunting. At the beginning of the 20th century, only about 40 cranes survived in the depths of the Kushiro wetlands. In January 1950, several red-crowned cranes came to a cultivated field in Kami-Akan, in the east of Hokkaido. The owner, Mr. Yamazaki, tried to feed the cranes with corn. The cranes ate the corn and began to visit his field in the following years. In 1952, when eastern Hokkaido was hit by heavy snowstorms, the feeding also succeeded at the elementary school in Tsurui. Since then, many people have participated in the feeding and the population of cranes on Hokkaido has recovered.

In Japan, cranes are considered national treasures. For centuries, they have stood for longevity and happiness, which has ultimately led to numerous conservation measures (especially winter feeding) and projects for their preservation. At the beginning of 2025, their population numbers around 1500 animals.

Best Time to see Cranes in Hokkaido

The best time to see the cranes in the sanctuary is from late November to mid-March. During the winter months, when food becomes scarce, the birds gather in large groups in places where they are fed to survive the harsh winter. The snow and winter light make the scenery particularly magical and photogenic for observing the graceful animals.

The observation area at Tsurui-Ito Tancho Sanctuary is open to the public all year round; however, cranes rarely come close to the observation area from April to October.

Top Photo Locations for Red-crowned Cranes on Hokkaido

There are several places in Hokkaido where the cranes are fed with corn in winter when the ground is covered with snow and there is not enough food.

#1 Tsurui-Ito-Tancho Sanctuary

Location: On the eastern edge of Tsuri village, north of Kushiro.

Description: The Tsurui-Itō Tanchō crane Sanctuary was founded in 1987 by the Wild Bird Society of Japan (WBSJ) and covers an area of around 13 hectares. Ito Crane Sanctuary is named after the late Yoshitaka Ito, who dedicated many years to protecting cranes and donated the land for this purpose. Part of the cow pasture in the sanctuary becomes a feeding ground for cranes in winter. In the high season, more than 300 cranes can be seen at the same time. There is a shelter and a public toilet at the viewing area. If you want to warm up, there is a heated observation room with spotting scopes and binoculars and a view of the feeding site in the neighboring nature center. Admission to the nature center is free. During the opening hours from October to March, rangers are stationed here to provide explanations and information about Manchurian cranes.

#2 Tsurumidai

Location: On road 53 from Kushiro to Teshikaga

Description: Tsurumidai is an important feeding site for the red-crowned crane. Originally, there was an elementary school at this site, and the students started feeding the cranes in winter. After the school closed, the owners of a nearby dairy farm continued the feeding from mid-November to March. There is parking on-site, a café with a souvenir store, and a public toilet.

Cranes can also often be seen near the cow or horse pastures and stables, as they find food there. They are often frighteningly close to the roads, so keep an eye out when driving!

#3 Otowa Bridge over the Setsuri River

Location: Near Tsurui village, north of Kushiro.

Description: The Otowa Bridge over the Setsuri River is famous for watching cranes roosting. To protect themselves from predators, the cranes sleep in shallow water. The Setsuri River is ice-free in winter as water from hot springs flows into it. A roost with underfloor heating, so to speak, for the cranes.

Between mid-October and the end of March, up to 200 cranes can be seen about 200 meters downstream from the bridge. The cranes take off for their feeding grounds after sunrise. Some fly directly towards and over the spectators. On cold mornings, steam rises from the river and glows in the first light of dawn. Photographers gather here before sunrise. There is a footbridge built especially for photographers as well as two parking lots and restrooms. The Otowa Bridge is the only place where the red-crowned cranes can be observed sleeping without being disturbed.

Best time to visit: The early morning hours are ideal, as fog often forms, creating a mystical atmosphere and ideal conditions for photographers. Only the occasional crane can be seen during the day. Unfortunately, I didn't make it to the bridge in the early morning due to adverse weather conditions.

#4 Akan International Crane Center AICC (Akan Kokusai Tsuru Center)

Location: Kushiro, road 240 towards Akan Lake

Description: The Akan International Crane Center is one of the best and most famous crane-watching centers in Japan. Here you can see the birds up close and learn about their biology and the protection of their habitats. The center has an exhibition that provides information about the life of cranes and the relationship between humans and cranes. Outside, cranes are kept in breeding enclosures and, with a bit of luck and the right timing, you can watch chicks through special glass windows.

Next to the AICC is the Tancho Observation Center, which was founded in 1977. The building is open from November to March. This is where the farmer Mr. Sadajiro Yamazaki started feeding the cranes in 1950. The fields near the town of Akan are therefore considered the birthplace of the artificial feeding program for cranes and the area is known as an important wintering area. Although the citizens of Akan have been involved in crane conservation for many decades, the Akan International Crane Center (AICC) is a new facility that is also dedicated to public education and crane research.

Feeding times in the morning and afternoon offer excellent opportunities to watch the cranes approach and marvel at their dances.

Note: Opening hours daily from 9:00 to 17:00. An entrance fee is charged. There are food stands in front of the Crane Center and there is a rest stop with a snack bar across the street.

Photo Tips for great Crane Photos in Hokkaido

Equipment

To successfully photograph wild animals, you usually need a long focal length. Cranes in particular usually have a great flight distance and are gone faster than you can look. But things are different here at the feeding grounds. The red-crowned cranes are used to the feeders and people. They sometimes come very close to the barriers and you can observe them up close.

I worked at the feeding sites with a 100 mm - 400 mm zoom lens. I used the wooden fence that separates the observers from the cranes as a tripod stand. Since I wasn't using a tripod, I was able to move my camera faster and capture cranes flying in or dancing.

To photograph cranes from the Otowa Bridge at the roost, however, you need a longer focal length (at least 400 mm). A tripod is also useful here, or the bridge railing can be used as a tripod.

Light and Weather

The best time for crane watching is in winter. There is usually less snow in the area around Kushiro than in other parts of Hokkaido. Nevertheless, you have to expect snow, rain, and wind. A rain cover for your camera and a cleaning cloth are therefore essential in your camera bag. Most lenses have a lens hood. These are very useful when photographing in the snow as they keep your lens clean. Also, gloves and hand warmers if necessary. Be sure to take spare batteries with you, as batteries discharge more quickly in the cold, and keep your batteries warm in your trouser pocket.

Tips for a Variety of Motifs

Take your time and get creative. There are so many different motifs. Here are a few examples:

• Overview of the entire feeding site, possibly as a panorama
• Cranes in groups. Remember: groups with an odd number of cranes look more interesting than groups with an even number.
• Single shot of a crane in the landscape
• Dancing cranes
• Calling cranes
• Flying cranes
• Close-up of a crane's head
• High key shots (deliberate overexposure)
• Feeding
• Behind the scenes: people watching cranes
• Frog perspective, possibly with some snow in the foreground

Photography and Nature Conservation

Behavior in the protected area and at the feeding sites: Make sure to stay quiet and keep your distance from the animals. Noises and movements can easily disturb the birds, especially during feeding and mating. Regulations on signs and barriers must be observed. It is often windy. Hold on to your things so that they don't fly to the cranes on the pasture. If you see cranes away from the feeding areas, keep your distance! Every time they fly up, it costs the animals unnecessary energy.

Do not feed them yourself!

Take particular care at the Otowa Bridge: This is a popular spot where many people come at the same time. It is therefore important to remain considerate (also towards other photographers) and not to make any noise so as not to scare the birds away.

Practical Information

Getting there: Kushiro is the nearest airport and an important city that is well connected to other Japanese cities. From there, the protected areas and observation centers can be reached by public transport or rental car.

Guided tours: The tour operator Picchio offers guided tours to observe the cranes in Hokkaido. The starting point is the city of Kushiro.

Accommodation: Kushiro offers a selection of hotels that are a good starting point for day trips. In Tsurui village there are also some rural accommodations and guesthouses that allow nature lovers and photographers to be close to the observation sites. Early booking is necessary here.

Driving: Are you traveling by rental car? On the Adventure Hokkaido website, you will find helpful information on driving in Hokkaido. Be aware that there are many wildlife accidents in Hokkaido involving yezo sika deer, foxes, and cranes. Especially in the morning, evening, and at night.

Other Activities in the Kushiro Region

Kushiro Shitsugen National Park: Kushiro Wetland is the largest remaining wetland in Japan and the habitat of many bird species, including the red-crowned crane. There are various viewpoints and hiking trails as well as the Onnenai Visitor Center. From there, there is a system of boardwalks that take visitors through the forested wetland, open wetland, peat bog, and forest, and back to the visitor center. Also of interest is the Kushiro Marsh Observatory, from where you have a view over Kushiro and the wetland.

Kushiro Marsh Wildlife Conservation Center: On the way from Kushiro to the crane village of Tsurui, you will pass the Wildlife Sanctuary, where cranes, eagles, fish owls and other birds are rehabilitated. There is a small exhibition and a guided tour of the aviaries once a day.

Ainu culture: The indigenous Ainu culture in Hokkaido offers insights into traditional practices and life in close contact with nature. There are museums and cultural centers that promote the history and protection of Ainu culture, such as the Ainu Kotan Museum in Kushiro.

Conclusion on observing the Red-crowned Cranes in Hokkaido

Hokkaido offers a unique opportunity to see the majestic red-crowned cranes in their natural habitat. From protected areas to mystical river landscapes, the island offers special insights into the lives of these endangered cranes. The winter months transform the landscape into a magical world of snow, making crane-watching on Hokkaido an unforgettable experience.

Book Recommendations for Hokkaido

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love birding as much as I do? Then you'll definitely be interested in my article Birdwatching for Beginners - with Binoculars in Search of Happiness and my article Storks, Cranes & Co - Birdwatching around the "Stork Village" Linum.

Der Beitrag Kraniche in Hokkaido beobachten: Locations und Fototipps erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

New Zealand. Farewell Spit is a narrow, curved sandbank on the northern tip of New Zealand's South Island, near Golden Bay. It is one of New Zealand's most famous and remote destinations for nature lovers, birdwatchers, and landscape photographers. In the following article, you can discover what makes Farewell Spit so special and how to best explore the area.

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links.

About Farewell Spit in New Zealand

At over 28 kilometers long and 1.5 kilometers wide, Farewell Spit is one of the longest natural sand dunes in the world. It was formed over thousands of years by the deposition of sand from nearby rivers and coastal currents. Most of the spit is a nature reserve, classified as a bird sanctuary and wetland of international importance under the Ramsar Convention. Farewell Spit is home to over 90 species of birds, including black-tailed godwits, northern gannets, and oystercatchers. Marine life, particularly New Zealand fur seals and unfortunately the occasional beached whale, can also be seen on the beach.

The Highlights of Farewell Spit

The Farewell Spit headland can only be explored on your own for the first four kilometers. For all other places worth seeing, you have to take part in a guided tour. The only tour provider is Farewell Spit Eco Tours (as of Nov 2024).

Unique Landscape of Sand Dunes

Farewell Spit is a fascinating combination of miles of sand dunes, quiet beaches, and a rugged coastline. The contrast between the Tasman Sea on one side and the calm tidal flats on the other is particularly impressive. Those who climb the huge sand dunes have a spectacular view of the surrounding area from the top. PHOTO TIP: The wavy lines painted into the sand by the wind are a great motif for detailed shots.

Wildlife

During low tide, numerous birds are foraging on the mudflats of Golden Bay, including black swans, oystercatchers, knots, and bar-tailed godwits. As soon as the water rises again, many of the waders move to the Tasman Sea side, where you can see them in large flocks at the waterline.

Some guided tours also visit the gannet colony, which is the only colony on a beach in New Zealand.

Most of the time you can also see fur seals resting on the sand. Unfortunately, Farewell Spit is also the scene of numerous strandings of long-finned pilot whales and is known as a “whale trap” due to its protruding coastline and long, gently sloping beaches. During my visit in November 2024, there was a stranded sperm whale on the Tasman Sea side. A sad sight.

Farewell Spit Lighthouse

Another highlight of a guided tour is the historic lighthouse. Here you can learn more about the history of the Spit and the work of the lighthouse keepers. A small exhibition shows exhibits from the animal world and provides information about the nature of the spit.

Shipwrecks

Farewell Spit has been the scene of numerous shipwrecks. Most of these incidents occurred when a ship ran aground on sand in shallow water near the spit, either through navigational error or because it was driven ashore in bad weather. None of the wrecks were visible during my tour, but we were shown a sand dune under which a ship is said to be buried.

Cape Farewell

Directly west of the spit is Cape Farewell, the northernmost point of the South Island. It offers dramatic cliffs and coastal views.

Wharariki Beach

Wharariki Beach begins just five kilometers west of the base of the headland, next to Cape Farewell. The beach is known for its striking rock formations with caves, cliffs and the offshore Archway Islands. At sunset, the beach is a popular destination for photographers.

Visit Farewell Spit: Tours and on your own

Access to much of Farewell Spit is restricted to guided tours in order to protect the fragile ecosystem. Farewell Spit Eco Tours is the only licensed tour provider. Possible tours with the 4×4 bus start either from the small town of Collingwood or at the parking lot at the base of the sand spit. Click here to visit the Farewell Spit Eco Tours website..

Want to explore Farewell Spit on your own? You can do that in the first four kilometers of the sand spit. You can walk along Golden Bay and also along the Tasman Sea. The Cape Farewell and Wharariki Beach viewpoints are also freely accessible.

What makes the Tour special?

• Seclusion:As access is severely restricted, you experience Farewell Spit almost without other visitors and have the feeling of being in one of the most remote places in New Zealand.
• Unforgettable photo opportunities:Whether sunset, sand dunes or wildlife - there are numerous opportunities for impressive pictures.

Best time to visit Farewell Spit

Summer (November to February) is ideal for birdwatching as migratory species such as bar-tailed godwits and knot can be seen. The guided tours are timed with the tides to allow optimal access to the spit.

Tips for visiting Farewell Spit

• Bring: Water, snacks, sunscreen, binoculars and camera.
• Clothing: Windproof jacket and comfortable shoes for walking in sand and dunes.
• The tours are often fully booked quickly, especially in the high season. Book early!
• Respect the protected areas and follow the guide's instructions to ensure the preservation of this unique environment.

Book Recommendations for New Zealand

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love birding as much as I do? Then you'll definitely be interested in my article Birdwatching for Beginners - with Binoculars in Search of Happiness and my article Storks, Cranes & Co - Birdwatching around the "Stork Village" Linum.

Der Beitrag Ausflug zu den Dünen von Farewell Spit, Neuseeland erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

NorwayHistory, culture, and nature are strung together like pearls on a necklace along the Varanger Fjord National Scenic Route. The further north-east you drive, the more spectacular the landscape becomes, the more reindeer are spotted, and visiting the bird island of Hornøya is an unforgettable experience. In the following article, I'll show you what I particularly liked about the Varanger Scenic Route.

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links.

Overview

The Varange Scenic Route is one of Norway's 18 national tourist routes and is particularly scenic. It runs for 160 km along the shores of Varanger Fjord from Varangerbotn to Hamningberg. You will see lunar landscapes, golden beaches, rolling hills, barren mountain ridges, birch forests, and swamps. And of course lots of reindeer and birds. You will also pass historically interesting places. The history of the Sami people, the Finnish settlers, the proximity to Russia, and finally the Second World War can be experienced in many areas and in various museums.

The road between Svartnes and Hamningberg is narrow and winding. Take your time when driving and enjoy the scenery. The road is closed in winter (November/December to April/May). Important to know: There is no petrol station or store on this section of the Varanger Fjord National Scenic Route. You will definitely be staying longer than planned, so take plenty of food and drink with you.

Varanger Sami Museum in Varangerbotn

The Varanger Sami Museum is dedicated to the history of the Sami at the Varangerfjord, Sami prehistory, and contemporary Sami culture. The modern information presented here goes far beyond the basic information available in many other exhibitions. The main building was built in 1994 and is inspired by traditional Sami architecture.

For an overnight stay, I can highly recommend the 8-Season Hotel gegenüber vom Museum sehr empfehlen.

Ceavccageaðge/Mortensnes

The Ceavccageaðge/Mortensnes area is considered one of the richest and most diverse cultural regions in Scandinavia. Remains from the past document 10,000 years of uninterrupted settlement. The traces of the settlements can be seen today as the remains of campsites, turf houses, and other dwellings as well as sacrificial sites and graves. The burial ground along the coast was used until the 17th century when the Christianization of the Sámi in Varanger began. In Sámi, the place is named after one of the sacrificial stones: Ceavccageaðge, which means fish oil stone. This vertically upright stone was coated with fish oil to ensure the luck of the catch.

There is a free hiking trail through the area, and a museum with a small café is open in summer. There is also a small peat house within the museum grounds, where you can stay overnight by prior arrangement.

Nesseby church

Nesseby Church is located directly on the shore between two bays of Varanger Fjord. However, the wooden church not only impresses with its photogenic location, but also with its history:

Nesseby Church dates back to 1858 and is the only church in eastern Finnmark that was not destroyed during the Second World War. How was it saved? A legend tells the story: Sverre Raddum was the vicar during the war. The tall, strong man was known as a tough guy. When the Germans wanted to burn down the church in Nesseby, Sverre stood on the steps and waited with his priest's collar around his neck and wouldn't let them in. He said in German: “If someone goes into the church or a place of worship with evil thoughts, he is guaranteed to be punished by higher powers”. The Germans gave up and the church was saved.

The area around Nesseby church is a designated nature reserve. It is well worth a walk. With a bit of luck, waders, ducks, geese, gulls and birds of prey can be observed here.

Airship mast at Vadsø

The town of Vadsø, with a population of around 5500, is known as the Kven capital of Norway due to the wave of Finnish immigrants in the 18th and 19th centuries. The local museum has an exhibition on Kven culture and the history of the region.

For me personally, the most interesting thing was that Vadsø was the starting point for Amundsen and Nobile's exploratory flights towards the North Pole. The airship mast is a reminder of this time of the great polar explorers.

The airship “Norge” moored at the airship mast in 1926. From here, “The Amundsen - Nobile - Ellsworth Transpolar Flight” took off over Spitsbergen and the North Pole to Alaska. In 1928, the airship “Italia” landed here with Umberto Nobile on its way to the North Pole. On the way back, the airship had an accident and a rescue operation began, during which the polar explorer Amundsen died.

The airship mast is part of the two-kilometer Vadsø Cultural Trail. This leads past other historical remains from the Middle Ages and the Second World War.

Ekkerøy - Beach and Birds on the Varanger Fjord

Ekkerøy is a small, tranquil peninsula and a worthwhile destination for birdwatchers and beach lovers. A wide sandy beach connects the former island with the mainland and is a perfect place for a lunch break.

If you want to go to the bird cliffs, drive a little further and park your car directly at the trailhead. Two circular trails of different lengths (1.5 km or 7 km) lead from here through the nature reserve. During the breeding season from May to September, up to 20,000 pairs of kittiwakes nest on the bird cliffs. Herring gulls, great black-backed gulls, and ravens also use the cliffs as a nesting site. The rich feeding grounds around the bird cliff also attract other bird species such as white-tailed eagles, gyrfalcons, buzzards, kestrels and merlins.

The settlement of Ekkerøy was not destroyed during the Second World War. The former fish factory now houses a museum.

Kittywake Hotel and War Relics on Varanger Fjord

Have you ever seen a Kittywake Hotel? No? Then you have the opportunity to do so at Kiberg harbor.

Kiberg was one of the largest fishing communities in the region in the 16th and 17th centuries and played an important role in the Pomeranian trade. During the Second World War, the village was of strategic importance due to its proximity to Russia, as up to 45 partisans worked here for the Soviet Union. The Partisan Museum tells of the local events of the Second World War. The remains of bunkers can still be found on the mountain above the harbor, bearing witness to history.

Heksefjellet (witches' mountain) Domen

On the way from Kiberg to Vardø, you will pass Mount Domen. A particularly eye-catching windbreak by the architect's “Biotop” in white with pink glazing invites you to linger. It is said that witches met with the devil, danced, drank, and held ceremonies here on Mount Domen. The devil is said to have lived in a cave here. Was this perhaps even the entrance to hell? From Domen you have a magnificent view of the fjord, the open sea and the small town of Vardø.

Vardø: Witches, Street Art, Birdwatching

Vardø is the easternmost town in Norway and, along with Hammerfest, it is also the oldest town in northern Norway. Vardø is also the only town on the Norwegian mainland that lies in the Arctic climate zone. This means that the average monthly temperature in July is below 10° Celsius. The most popular sights in Vardø are the memorial to the burning of witches, the Drakkar-Leviathan whale statue, the Vardøhus fortress, and the Pomor Museum, which is dedicated to the history of trade between Norway and Russia in the late 19th/early 20th century. 

Vardøhus Fortress in Vardø

The fortress was completed in 1738 and contains buildings from before 1825. Today it is under the command of the Norwegian Armed Forces and is open to visitors during the day. During the Second World War, the fortress was the last place in Norway to surrender to the Nazis. The town was occupied for five years afterward. Vardøhus Fortress is the northernmost fortress in the world.

Steilneset - in Memory of the Burning of Witches

The area around Vardø was one of the worst in terms of the extent of the brutal witch hunts. The Steilneset memorial in Vardø was erected in memory of the 91 people who were found guilty of witchcraft and burned at the stake. A 100-meter-long corridor tells the stories of the individuals. The texts are based on the old court records. The corridor leads to a room in the middle of which a chair is burning. The flames multiply in hanging mirrors.

Street Art in Vardo

Vardø was once a lively fishing community. But the town's population halved between the 1960s and 2000s, partly due to the collapse of the fishing industry.

Many traditional wooden buildings stood empty and were abandoned. Although they are empty, these listed buildings all have owners who often cannot afford to restore them properly. The idea of the street art project in 2012 was that the art created on these buildings could awaken them from their coma, which gave the art festival its name: “Komafest”.

Hornøya - Birdwatcher's Paradise in the Varanger Fjord

Varanger is one of the 100 best destinations in the world for birdwatching. No other place offers such easy access to the Arctic birdlife. The island of Hornøya in particular is considered a birdwatcher's paradise.

From the port of Vardo, you can cross over to the island of Hornøya several times a day. Incidentally, this was the main reason for my trip to Varanger Fjord. What is there here? Thousands of breeding birds and a path that takes you right through the middle of the breeding colonies. Puffins, shags, guillemots, razorbills, kittiwakes, and many other species breed here close together and try to drown each other out with loud squawking. For the sake of the animals, the path must not be left. At the end of the path, there is a lighthouse where you can spend the night.

Nordpol Kro

Nordpol Kro, located at the harbor, has been around since the middle of the 19th century. This makes it Northern Norway's oldest inn. It is very cozy and you feel like you have been transported back in time when you enter. In 1889, the polar explorer Fritjof Nansen is said to have had his last accommodation here before setting off on the Fram 2 expedition to the North Pole. 

Modern Architecture meets Birdwatching

There are several architectural highlights by Biotop spread across the Varanger peninsula. The architects specialize in photo hides and wind shelters. You will find Biotop birdwatching huts in Vestre Jakobselv, Vadsø, on the island of Ekkerøya, Kiberg, at the Domen witches' dance site, on the island of Hornøya, at the tip of the Steilnesodden headland and in Hamningberg.

Hamningberg, the abandoned Fishing Village at the End of the Road

Hamningberg is an abandoned fishing village. Many of the colorful wooden buildings date from before the Second World War. At that time, around 700 people lived here and the village was one of the largest fishing communities in Finnmark and participated in the Pomor trade. The last three inhabitants left Hamningberg in 1978, but today the settlement is a summer vacation resort and by no means looks deserted.

You can easily plan a whole day for the trip to Hamningberg. The scenery becomes more spectacular with every kilometer and photo stops and breaks to take in the rocky lunar landscape are a must. For example, the beach at Sandfjordneset, where there is even a table and chairs.

The colorful wooden houses of Hamningberg are particularly pretty to look at from the opposite shore. There is a small café with a terrace and a hiking trail to the fortress ruins on the mountain. If you want to stay here overnight, you can do so at the campsite to the west of the village.

Reindeer

In my opinion, the main attraction of Hamningberg was the reindeer, which roamed in small groups between the mountains, the village, and the beach. On a warm summer's day, they were probably looking for a little refreshment by the sea. I imitated the reindeer and also went into the cold water of the Barents Sea. Once you're in, it's not that cold anymore.

Nowhere else in Norway, Sweden, or Finland have I seen so many reindeer as here on the Varanger peninsula. About halfway along the Scenic Route, herds kept roaming left and right of the road. At one point, even our accommodation was surrounded by a grazing herd. The most photogenic, however, were the reindeer at the Hamningberg stand.

Book recommendations for Norway

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love the north as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about my Husky Guide Training – Two Months with Hetta Huskies in Finland or about Trekking on the Laugavegur in Iceland.

Der Beitrag Varanger Fjord: Hexen, Street Art, Wildlife an der National Scenic Route erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Not every good picture is a good picture. But often you only realize that at second glance. And only when you look a little beyond the frame. What you then see can be the exact opposite of what the photo shows: trampling behind barriers, startled or fed wild animals or reckless noise and jostling at observation platforms. To ensure that wildlife photography is not at the expense of the animals, there are a few things to do...or not to do.

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links.

No picture without a Plan - Research and Preparation

A good photo needs to be planned. Landscape photographers know this and use apps such as Photo Pills to plan the light and the position of the sun or moon. Wildlife photography also needs to be planned, because the more you know about the animal species and its behavior, the better your chances of taking a good picture.

And why is good planning important for the animals?

If you know where and how the animals live, what rhythms they follow and when they react most sensitively to disturbances, then you can adjust your behavior accordingly and disturb the animals less. You will also be safer when you are out and about. Because some animals are not to be trifled with during the breeding season or when they have offspring. You should be aware of this. Examples of this are Arctic terns or broods with young.

Depending on the intention, I ask myself the following questions before setting off:

• Where does the species live at what season/time of day can the animals be seen and where exactly? What is the probability of a sighting?
• How do the animals behave at the respective season/time of day (feeding, resting, mating...)? How do the animals react to humans in this particular habitat (flight, aggression, approach)?
• When are the animals at their prettiest (plumage)?
• In which month can young animals be observed or courtship behavior?
• What protection status does the animal have? Does it live in a protected area and if so, what rules apply there?
• Are there any dangers from the animal or the habitat where it lives?
• What equipment do I need to photograph the animal? (e.g. macro or telephoto lens)?

Basic Principles: Do not disturb or destroy anything

As soon as we photographers have discovered an interesting animal, it is difficult to resist the temptation to get closer. I know this all too well myself. But in most cases, getting closer doesn't help anyway. The movement and noises you make as you approach will drive the animal away anyway. As soon as the animal stops eating, lifts its head and looks in your direction, you are too close and disturbing the animal. It will now flee or possibly attack. Or maybe it will just pretend to.

If you follow the following principles, the animals will thank you for it:

• Observe the animals' reactions and retreat as soon as the animal becomes nervous.
• Be vigilant during the breeding season so that you are not too close to the nest. Pay attention to the birds' warning calls.
• Young birds are usually curious and may even approach you. Retreat, however difficult it may be.
• Never get between the mother and the young.
• Do not follow animal tracks into the undergrowth, as this is an important place of retreat, especially in winter and during the breeding season.
• Every flight reaction of the animal consumes energy. This can be particularly critical in winter when food is scarce.
• Do not block the animals' escape route.
• Do not feed animals.
• Do not call in the direction of the animals and do not throw anything at them just to get a better photo.
• Do not modify nests or touch eggs.
• Do not use flash with nocturnal animals, as their sensitive eyes will be severely dazzled. A less intense continuous video light is more suitable here.
• Keep your distance from breeding caves, nests or reed beds (especially if you are traveling by boat).

Nest Photography

No picture is worth risking the life of an animal. But it can happen too quickly that parent birds are disturbed so much during breeding that they give up or abandon their young. Eggs and chicks then cool down, starve or become a snack for sea eagles or raccoons. It is essential to avoid disturbing the animals during this important time. This means keeping your distance from nests or feeding animals.

Nest photography is reserved for professionals who shoot with long focal lengths from a hiding place and know what they are doing. With telephoto lenses between 600 and 800 mm focal length, a photo hut or other camouflage and a lot of sensitivity for the animals, some things are still possible that are no longer possible with a smartphone. But sometimes a bit of luck is also involved, as there are also favorable breeding places under a roof ledge, in front of the window or on your own balcony, where you are then a little closer to the action. But even here it is not possible without being considerate of the animals.

On your own or on a guided tour?

It is comparatively easy to photograph birds and squirrels on your own in the park. But if you want to take photos of musk oxen or bears, it gets more complicated. You will probably need a guided tour with a local guide or a photo hut. Many places offer guided wildlife observation tours or you can use established observation platforms or photo huts, such as in Linum near Berlin or in the Kranorama in Mecklenburg-Vorpommern for crane photography. The advantage of observation platforms and photo huts is that visitors are concentrated and the animals are less disturbed as they are used to people at these observation points.

Worthwhile Locations for Wildlife Photography in Germany are, for example

• Cranes: Observation platforms and guided tours of the crane flight at the Linum ponds; observation platform and photo huts Kranorama in Mecklenburg-Vorpommern; crane flight Pramort on the Darß
• Deer: Various viewing platforms in Darß Ort, guided tours to the deer rut from early September to early October
• Wolves: Lusatia, for example, viewing platform at Berger See or Wolkenberg
• Gannets and seals: The only colony of gannets can be found in Helgoland. Seals can also be observed here, with offspring in winter.
• You can also photograph various bird species on the tours or from the observation huts of Ranger-Tours fotografieren.

Please note: the use of SLR cameras is sometimes restricted in the observation hides as they cannot trigger silently.

Would you like to take more photos? Then take a look at the e-books from Fotonomaden. In the "slow & simple" photography e-books (winter, forest, water, flowers & blossoms) you will always find 40 photo ideas on the respective topic. Each inspiration is accompanied by several sample images as inspiration and simply explained, easy-to-implement tips. (only in German)

The way to the Picture - compulsory Paths, Barriers, and other Regulations

Wild animals know forest roads and hiking trails. They often use them themselves and leave their tracks on paths. The animals know that people or cars move along them and leave just as quickly as they come. Irritation occurs when paths are left, people stop on the path or someone gets out of a stationary car. Then they quickly flee. Every flight and runaway costs the animal energy. In times of food shortage, heat, or cold, the animal is exposed to unnecessary, additional stress.

Before I go into an area to photograph wildlife, I check the following points:

• How accessible is the area? Is there a compulsory route for hikers? Are there any closed areas or other restrictions?
• Are there any additional seasonal restrictions, such as during the breeding or bird migration season?
• Are there viewpoints, observation platforms or huts that I can use?

Take Responsibility for the Place

Have you discovered a fox den or a lovely spot with a breathtaking view of the lake and its resting migratory birds? Or perhaps a nest of a rare bird species? What will happen if you share the photo with the location or even the coordinates on social media?

Please note: The location is often set automatically in the cell phone or camera and must be removed manually before uploading.

Book Recommendations for Wildlife Photographers

Would you like to learn more about wildlife photography? Then I have three book recommendations for you. You can order the books* from Amazon by clicking on the images. If you buy a book or another article via an affiliate link, I will receive a small commission and you will help me to continue to fill Wanderlust Motifs with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you.

Do you have any questions about my article? If so, please write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you want to start photographing birds right away? Then take a look at my article on Birdwatching in the Pond Landscape Linum or Birdwatching for Beginners - with Binoculars in Search of Happiness .

Der Beitrag Wildtierfotografie – natürlich mit Respekt erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Birdwatching will make you happy! You can do it almost anywhere and it doesn't have to cost much. What hobby can compete with that? A study even showed that increasing bird diversity by ten percent increases individual life satisfaction just as much as a ten percent salary increase. What could be more logical than going out more often and looking for birds? The good thing is that you don't have to be a pro to do it, beginners will become just as happy when birdwatching!

In the following article, I will show you where and when you can go birding and how to collect your first moments of happiness as a birdwatcher. There are many informative links to help you get started. A very important point is that you do not disturb the birds during your observations and "do not go over bird corpses" during your observations. There is a separate chapter on this at the end.

Birdwatching is healthy and at any age is a great way to spend more time outside in nature. You can do it alone, in which case it's almost a bit meditative, or in a group. It doesn't have to be the Camargue or the Danube Delta. Even in Germany there are many places where you can watch birds. Even in the cities!

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links.

Everything can, Nothing must - the Equipment

What do you need to start birdwatching? First of all your own eyes, ears and attention. With that you can start. Very simple. What else you need are some snacks, water and a bit of patience. It's best to dress in muted colors. Bright colors or white can startle the birds.

Do you have binoculars or a camera with a telephoto zoom? Great. Take it with you. If not, it doesn't matter. You'll see birds anyway. It's helpful to have a small notebook and a pen to write down the species you've seen. Of course, you can also do this on your smartphone. There are even apps that you can use to report your observations and thus contribute to the data collection of bird research projects, such as Naturgucker.de.

Bird Identification Books and Apps

The best identification book I ever held in my hands is the Cosmos Bird Guide*, also known as "Svensson". It is available as a book and as an app for Android and iPhone.

There are other apps that allow you to identify birds by their appearance or song. I really liked the app Merlin Bird ID by Cornell Lab , as well as the eBird app. auch sehr gut gefallen.

Learning the bird calls is extremely helpful. You can use it to increase your sighting success even more. The apps can be a good help with this as well. The website Vogelstimmen.de offers thousands of free links to recordings of various bird calls.

The best Places for Birding

You don't have to go far to make your first successful birding trip. Even in the city park next door, you can see many different species. Most often you will see blackbirds, great tits, blue tits, robins, great spotted woodpeckers, nuthatches, jays, magpies, and of course sparrows, woodpigeons, and crows. Cemeteries with old stands of trees are also a good place to watch birds.

If you have the opportunity, you will be able to see many more species in the forest, in the fields, and along the water and the coast you will be able to discover many more species. With each new habitat you explore, your personal species list will quickly grow longer. You can find tips on good observation areas, including a list of species, in the Naturguckerdatabase. You can also enter your own observations here.

It is always worthwhile to keep an eye out for birdwatching towers or to research them on the Internet beforehand. For Brandenburg, for example, NABU has a clear map of birdwatching towers.

You can also find good places for bird watching in Germany on the Birding-Germany website.My personal favorites are:

• Linum and Darß: cranes and geese during bird migration season and in the evening the cranes fly in. A great place to watch cranes during migration time is the Kranorama in Mecklenburg-Vorpommern.There are also photo huts for rent here.
• Havelland: Great bustard courtship in spring. There are also two observation towers here. More information can be found at the association Großtrappenschutz.
• Mecklenburg Lake District: good chances to see white-tailed eagles and ospreys.
• Helgoland: here is the only colony of gannets in Germany.

If you are interested in bird photography from the photo hide, check out the site of Ranger-Tours.

You want to turn your own garden or balcony into a bird magnet? Then you can start by setting up a watering hole or, in winter, a feeder. Many birds are happy about a suitable nesting box, which you can either buy or build yourself. It is important that you hang up the right box for the respective bird species because there are cavity breeders or half cavity breeders, small and large birds. You can find a large selection in the NABU Shop. Here you will find building instructions, also from NABU.

When is the best Time for Birdwatching?

In the spring and early summer, native breeding birds are most active. They attract mates with their songs and then feed their young. At this time you will have quick sightings. In autumn and spring, you can observe many migratory birds. It can also happen that you see a rare species from the far north. At this time it is especially worthwhile to make trips to water bodies and wetlands. In winter, the migratory birds are gone. On the other hand, we often have winter visitors such as waxwings, redwings, and whooper swans. Other species, which are usually seen less frequently, are now more common, such as the alder siskins, tail tits, or bullfinches. In parks, many people hang titmouse dumplings or feeders. There it sometimes goes high and a longer stopover is then very worthwhile.

The best time of dayto watch birds is between dawn and late morning. This is when the birds are most active foraging for food.

Tip: Join the big bird counts "the hour of the garden birds" or"the hour of the winter birds". You can find more information at NABU.

Guided Birdwatching Tours

Is there an environmental association active in your area? Maybe they offer guided birding tours. Especially for beginners it is helpful to have an old hand talking and sharing his experience.

In Berlin, for example, NABU offers various birding tours. Here you can find the homepage of NABU's birding tours.

Birding-Tours offers organized trips or weekend excursions into the world of birds.

If you are looking for Happiness, you have to find Birds!

Nature influences human happiness in many ways. In particular, seeing or hearing birds increases mental well-being. At least that's what a 2022 study by researchers at King's College London found. Another study said that people who heard birdsong while hiking felt better than hikers who did not hear bird calls (California Polytechnic State University, 2020).

The German Center for Integrative Biodiversity Research also looked at the effects of species richness on life satisfaction in 2020: 10% more bird diversity in the environment increases life satisfaction just as much as a 10% salary increase.

Here is the entire study to read.

The findings of the above studies clearly show that protecting birds and bird habitats is a worthwhile investment in human well-being. But first and foremost, bird conservation is about the birds themselves. You'll learn how to protect birds in our own birding efforts in the next chapter.

Are you looking for binoculars? I'm very happy with the handy and even waterproof Zeiss Terra ED 8×42*.

Responsible Birdwatching

It is quite easy to watch birds responsibly. And if you follow a few things, you will be rewarded with better sighting results at the same time.

1. Watch the birds from a distance. Do not approach them. Use binoculars or a zoom lens to watch the birds. Especially keep your distance from nests.
2. Listen for warning calls from the birds. If so, you are too close to the birds or to a nest. Eggs of ground-nesting birds can be nearly invisible. Some birds, like Arctic terns, also attack humans if they get too close to a nest.
3. Stay on designated trails and observe restrictions. Some areas are closed during breeding or bird migration seasons.
4. Keep your distance from reed beds on lakeshores, both from the land side and from the water side by paddle boat.
5. Leave feathers, eggshells, and fallen bird nests in nature.
6. Do not feed the birds. Feeding can affect their health, change their behavior, and may expose them to further danger.
7. Be considerate of other birders, especially at observation platforms or huts. Don't spread your stuff out unnecessarily or block everyone else's view.
8. Be quiet! Put the phone on silent.
9. If you are traveling in a car, pull over to the side if you want to watch a bird from the car. Do not endanger other road users and do not block traffic.

Birds as Weathermen

Who does not know them, the clever farmer rules: "Fly the swallows in the heights comes a weather, that is beautiful" or "swallows low in the flight - thunderstorm comes".

Birds have a good sense for weather changes. They react to changes in pressure, light or an electrical charge in advance with their songs, cries, feeding, and nest building. They also adjust the dates of their annual arrivals and departures to weather conditions. It is even said that birds are alert to weather deterioration through their so-called rain calls. A study of the rain call of the chaffinch showed that the ratio of a song to rain calls decreased with the sudden onset of unfavorable weather. A prediction of rain by the chaffinch, however, was not confirmed.

Book Recommendations for Birdwatchers

Want to delve deeper into the hobby of birdwatching? Then I have three book recommendations for you. You can order the books* from Amazon by clicking on the images. If you purchase a book or other item via an affiliate link, I will receive a small commission and you will help me to continue filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be any more expensive for you.

Do you have any comments or suggestions about my article? If yes, then write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you want to go birdwatching right away? Then check out my article about Birdwatching in the Pond Landscape Linum and about Birdwatching at Myvatn in Iceland .

Der Beitrag Birdwatching für Einsteiger – mit dem Fernglas auf der Suche nach Glück erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.