NorwayHistory, culture, and nature are strung together like pearls on a necklace along the Varanger Fjord National Scenic Route. The further north-east you drive, the more spectacular the landscape becomes, the more reindeer are spotted, and visiting the bird island of Hornøya is an unforgettable experience. In the following article, I'll show you what I particularly liked about the Varanger Scenic Route.

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Overview

The Varange Scenic Route is one of Norway's 18 national tourist routes and is particularly scenic. It runs for 160 km along the shores of Varanger Fjord from Varangerbotn to Hamningberg. You will see lunar landscapes, golden beaches, rolling hills, barren mountain ridges, birch forests, and swamps. And of course lots of reindeer and birds. You will also pass historically interesting places. The history of the Sami people, the Finnish settlers, the proximity to Russia, and finally the Second World War can be experienced in many areas and in various museums.

The road between Svartnes and Hamningberg is narrow and winding. Take your time when driving and enjoy the scenery. The road is closed in winter (November/December to April/May). Important to know: There is no petrol station or store on this section of the Varanger Fjord National Scenic Route. You will definitely be staying longer than planned, so take plenty of food and drink with you.

Varanger Sami Museum in Varangerbotn

The Varanger Sami Museum is dedicated to the history of the Sami at the Varangerfjord, Sami prehistory, and contemporary Sami culture. The modern information presented here goes far beyond the basic information available in many other exhibitions. The main building was built in 1994 and is inspired by traditional Sami architecture.

For an overnight stay, I can highly recommend the 8-Season Hotel gegenüber vom Museum sehr empfehlen.

Ceavccageaðge/Mortensnes

The Ceavccageaðge/Mortensnes area is considered one of the richest and most diverse cultural regions in Scandinavia. Remains from the past document 10,000 years of uninterrupted settlement. The traces of the settlements can be seen today as the remains of campsites, turf houses, and other dwellings as well as sacrificial sites and graves. The burial ground along the coast was used until the 17th century when the Christianization of the Sámi in Varanger began. In Sámi, the place is named after one of the sacrificial stones: Ceavccageaðge, which means fish oil stone. This vertically upright stone was coated with fish oil to ensure the luck of the catch.

There is a free hiking trail through the area, and a museum with a small café is open in summer. There is also a small peat house within the museum grounds, where you can stay overnight by prior arrangement.

Nesseby church

Nesseby Church is located directly on the shore between two bays of Varanger Fjord. However, the wooden church not only impresses with its photogenic location, but also with its history:

Nesseby Church dates back to 1858 and is the only church in eastern Finnmark that was not destroyed during the Second World War. How was it saved? A legend tells the story: Sverre Raddum was the vicar during the war. The tall, strong man was known as a tough guy. When the Germans wanted to burn down the church in Nesseby, Sverre stood on the steps and waited with his priest's collar around his neck and wouldn't let them in. He said in German: “If someone goes into the church or a place of worship with evil thoughts, he is guaranteed to be punished by higher powers”. The Germans gave up and the church was saved.

The area around Nesseby church is a designated nature reserve. It is well worth a walk. With a bit of luck, waders, ducks, geese, gulls and birds of prey can be observed here.

Airship mast at Vadsø

The town of Vadsø, with a population of around 5500, is known as the Kven capital of Norway due to the wave of Finnish immigrants in the 18th and 19th centuries. The local museum has an exhibition on Kven culture and the history of the region.

For me personally, the most interesting thing was that Vadsø was the starting point for Amundsen and Nobile's exploratory flights towards the North Pole. The airship mast is a reminder of this time of the great polar explorers.

The airship “Norge” moored at the airship mast in 1926. From here, “The Amundsen - Nobile - Ellsworth Transpolar Flight” took off over Spitsbergen and the North Pole to Alaska. In 1928, the airship “Italia” landed here with Umberto Nobile on its way to the North Pole. On the way back, the airship had an accident and a rescue operation began, during which the polar explorer Amundsen died.

The airship mast is part of the two-kilometer Vadsø Cultural Trail. This leads past other historical remains from the Middle Ages and the Second World War.

Ekkerøy - Beach and Birds on the Varanger Fjord

Ekkerøy is a small, tranquil peninsula and a worthwhile destination for birdwatchers and beach lovers. A wide sandy beach connects the former island with the mainland and is a perfect place for a lunch break.

If you want to go to the bird cliffs, drive a little further and park your car directly at the trailhead. Two circular trails of different lengths (1.5 km or 7 km) lead from here through the nature reserve. During the breeding season from May to September, up to 20,000 pairs of kittiwakes nest on the bird cliffs. Herring gulls, great black-backed gulls, and ravens also use the cliffs as a nesting site. The rich feeding grounds around the bird cliff also attract other bird species such as white-tailed eagles, gyrfalcons, buzzards, kestrels and merlins.

The settlement of Ekkerøy was not destroyed during the Second World War. The former fish factory now houses a museum.

Kittywake Hotel and War Relics on Varanger Fjord

Have you ever seen a Kittywake Hotel? No? Then you have the opportunity to do so at Kiberg harbor.

Kiberg was one of the largest fishing communities in the region in the 16th and 17th centuries and played an important role in the Pomeranian trade. During the Second World War, the village was of strategic importance due to its proximity to Russia, as up to 45 partisans worked here for the Soviet Union. The Partisan Museum tells of the local events of the Second World War. The remains of bunkers can still be found on the mountain above the harbor, bearing witness to history.

Heksefjellet (witches' mountain) Domen

On the way from Kiberg to Vardø, you will pass Mount Domen. A particularly eye-catching windbreak by the architect's “Biotop” in white with pink glazing invites you to linger. It is said that witches met with the devil, danced, drank, and held ceremonies here on Mount Domen. The devil is said to have lived in a cave here. Was this perhaps even the entrance to hell? From Domen you have a magnificent view of the fjord, the open sea and the small town of Vardø.

Vardø: Witches, Street Art, Birdwatching

Vardø is the easternmost town in Norway and, along with Hammerfest, it is also the oldest town in northern Norway. Vardø is also the only town on the Norwegian mainland that lies in the Arctic climate zone. This means that the average monthly temperature in July is below 10° Celsius. The most popular sights in Vardø are the memorial to the burning of witches, the Drakkar-Leviathan whale statue, the Vardøhus fortress, and the Pomor Museum, which is dedicated to the history of trade between Norway and Russia in the late 19th/early 20th century. 

Vardøhus Fortress in Vardø

The fortress was completed in 1738 and contains buildings from before 1825. Today it is under the command of the Norwegian Armed Forces and is open to visitors during the day. During the Second World War, the fortress was the last place in Norway to surrender to the Nazis. The town was occupied for five years afterward. Vardøhus Fortress is the northernmost fortress in the world.

Steilneset - in Memory of the Burning of Witches

The area around Vardø was one of the worst in terms of the extent of the brutal witch hunts. The Steilneset memorial in Vardø was erected in memory of the 91 people who were found guilty of witchcraft and burned at the stake. A 100-meter-long corridor tells the stories of the individuals. The texts are based on the old court records. The corridor leads to a room in the middle of which a chair is burning. The flames multiply in hanging mirrors.

Street Art in Vardo

Vardø was once a lively fishing community. But the town's population halved between the 1960s and 2000s, partly due to the collapse of the fishing industry.

Many traditional wooden buildings stood empty and were abandoned. Although they are empty, these listed buildings all have owners who often cannot afford to restore them properly. The idea of the street art project in 2012 was that the art created on these buildings could awaken them from their coma, which gave the art festival its name: “Komafest”.

Hornøya - Birdwatcher's Paradise in the Varanger Fjord

Varanger is one of the 100 best destinations in the world for birdwatching. No other place offers such easy access to the Arctic birdlife. The island of Hornøya in particular is considered a birdwatcher's paradise.

From the port of Vardo, you can cross over to the island of Hornøya several times a day. Incidentally, this was the main reason for my trip to Varanger Fjord. What is there here? Thousands of breeding birds and a path that takes you right through the middle of the breeding colonies. Puffins, shags, guillemots, razorbills, kittiwakes, and many other species breed here close together and try to drown each other out with loud squawking. For the sake of the animals, the path must not be left. At the end of the path, there is a lighthouse where you can spend the night.

Nordpol Kro

Nordpol Kro, located at the harbor, has been around since the middle of the 19th century. This makes it Northern Norway's oldest inn. It is very cozy and you feel like you have been transported back in time when you enter. In 1889, the polar explorer Fritjof Nansen is said to have had his last accommodation here before setting off on the Fram 2 expedition to the North Pole. 

Modern Architecture meets Birdwatching

There are several architectural highlights by Biotop spread across the Varanger peninsula. The architects specialize in photo hides and wind shelters. You will find Biotop birdwatching huts in Vestre Jakobselv, Vadsø, on the island of Ekkerøya, Kiberg, at the Domen witches' dance site, on the island of Hornøya, at the tip of the Steilnesodden headland and in Hamningberg.

Hamningberg, the abandoned Fishing Village at the End of the Road

Hamningberg is an abandoned fishing village. Many of the colorful wooden buildings date from before the Second World War. At that time, around 700 people lived here and the village was one of the largest fishing communities in Finnmark and participated in the Pomor trade. The last three inhabitants left Hamningberg in 1978, but today the settlement is a summer vacation resort and by no means looks deserted.

You can easily plan a whole day for the trip to Hamningberg. The scenery becomes more spectacular with every kilometer and photo stops and breaks to take in the rocky lunar landscape are a must. For example, the beach at Sandfjordneset, where there is even a table and chairs.

The colorful wooden houses of Hamningberg are particularly pretty to look at from the opposite shore. There is a small café with a terrace and a hiking trail to the fortress ruins on the mountain. If you want to stay here overnight, you can do so at the campsite to the west of the village.

Reindeer

In my opinion, the main attraction of Hamningberg was the reindeer, which roamed in small groups between the mountains, the village, and the beach. On a warm summer's day, they were probably looking for a little refreshment by the sea. I imitated the reindeer and also went into the cold water of the Barents Sea. Once you're in, it's not that cold anymore.

Nowhere else in Norway, Sweden, or Finland have I seen so many reindeer as here on the Varanger peninsula. About halfway along the Scenic Route, herds kept roaming left and right of the road. At one point, even our accommodation was surrounded by a grazing herd. The most photogenic, however, were the reindeer at the Hamningberg stand.

Book recommendations for Norway

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

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Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love the north as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about my Husky Guide Training – Two Months with Hetta Huskies in Finland or about Trekking on the Laugavegur in Iceland.

Der Beitrag Varanger Fjord: Hexen, Street Art, Wildlife an der National Scenic Route erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

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In this article you will find a lot of practical information for a road trip through Svaneti in Georgia:

The Classic - Lada Niva with Roof Tent as Rental Car
Die Route “Svaneti Loop” – von Kutaissi durch Swanetien
Places of Interest on our Road Trip in Svaneti
Tips for Campsites for the Night
Shopping, Food, Money and Refueling
Condition of the Roads on the Svaneti Loop
Conclusion - is the Svaneti Loop worth it?

The Classic - Lada Niva with Roof Tent as Rental Car

The best way to explore Svaneti is on a road trip with your own 4×4 vehicle. Then you can choose your route and travel pace according to your wishes. If you travel with a camper or a roof tent, you can spend the night where it is most beautiful. What could be better for such a tour than a Lada Niva with roof tent? The small, handy Lada Niva is a classic from Russia. It has been produced in the Russian city of Togliatti since 1976 and its simple technology makes it almost indestructible. It is also an extremely popular vehicle in Georgia, you can see it on every corner.

Another classic from Russia is the UAZ Buchanka. Some also call it "toast bread". Not without reason. It doesn't take much imagination to see the resemblance. But you don't see the UAZ in Georgia quite as often as the Lada Niva.

Where does one find such a car?

Wondering where you can rent one of those ready-to-go Lada's? Have a look at Overlando.Here you can choose between Lada Niva, UAZ Buchanka or Toyota Land Cruiser. Tbilisi and Kutaisi are offered as pick-up locations.

Die Route “Svaneti Loop” – von Kutaissi durch Swanetien

Svaneti is located in the north of Georgia, near the Russian border. The wild mountainous landscape of the Great Caucasus attracts many nature and hiking lovers every year. Besides, Svaneti is famous for its charming mountain villages with their special architecture and fortified towers. In particular, the village of Ushguli, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is often depicted in pictures as well as in travel brochures. 

But the romantic places and colorful mountain meadows in summer look different in winter: up to six months a year Ushguli is cut off from the rest of the world. Heavy snowfalls, avalanches, heavy rains and landslides are not rare events here. Since the 1980s, many inhabitants have migrated from the villages. Today, about 23,600 people live in Svanetia.

The Svaneti Loop is a particularly scenic, but also challenging route. It leads through the mountainous region from Mestia via Ushguli to Sasaschi. If you include the journey to and from Kutaisi, the route covers about 445 kilometers.

The individual sections of our Lada Niva road trip in Svaneti:

• Kutaisi - Mestia: 221 to 251 kilometers (about 5-6 hours), depending on the route chosen.
• Mestia - Ushguli: 46,5 kilometers (about 2-3 hours)
• Ushguli - Zagari Pass - Sasaschi: 46 kilometers (about 3 hours)
• Sasaschi - Lentechi: 28 kilometers (about 45 minutes)
• Lentechi - Kutaisi: 90 kilometers (about 2 hours)

Places of Interest on our Road Trip in Svaneti

The first three destinations on our road trip are not in Svaneti. But they are worthwhile stops on the way from Kutaisi to Mestia. It would be too bad to miss them.

Zqaltubo - Thermal Spa with Lost Places

Zqaltubo (Tskaltubo) is a thermal resort about 15 kilometers northwest of Kutaisi. Once Zqaltubo was one of the most important health resorts of the Soviet Union. Numerous sanatoriums offered cures for rheumatism and other joint diseases using the slightly radioactive water. In order to maintain the socialist work force, the Soviet spa policy promoted the development of the spa. Thus, numerous spa hotels were built in the style of neo-classicism and later in the style of classical Soviet modernism. However, the sanatoriums were not only for physical recreation. Cultural education and ideological training were also of great importance.

However, after the collapse of the Soviet Union and the beginning of the war, fewer and fewer guests came. The spa hotels remained empty and fell into disrepair. Some of the sanatoriums became the new homes for internally displaced persons (IDPs) instead.

Today, Zqaltubo is a place that many blogs describe as a great Lost Place. And yes, it is true that there are many Lost Places. But the town is making efforts to become an attractive resort again. For example, investors have already been found for the Iveria and Meshakhtiori sanatoriums. The two sanatoriums are fenced in and can only be seen over the fence. On the other hand, we were able to take a closer look at bathhouse 8 in the spa park. We visited the other sanatoriums from the Soviet era only from the outside. Their architecture is beautiful and I would have loved to go inside. But I didn't want to intrude too much on the privacy of the people who have made their homes here in the abandoned hotels.

Today, the Tsqaltubo SPA Resort is the only Soviet-era spa hotel still operating as such. Bathhouse 6 in the central spa park also still offers medical treatments.

Prometheus Cave

Prometheus Cave is only about a 10-minute drive north of Zqaltubo. If you are in the area, you should not miss a visit to the impressive stalactite cave. You can visit the 1.8 km long cave during a one hour guided tour. For a small extra price, you can even leave the cave at the end of the tour in a boat on the underground river Kumi.

Martvili Canyon

Martvili Canyon is also a worthwhile destination on the road trip to Svaneti. You can explore the canyon on a 700 meter long hiking trail and look down on the water from two bridges and several viewing platforms. The highlight of Martvili Canyon, however, is the boat ride. Equipped with a life jacket and a paddle, the boat goes about 300 meters along the Abasha River. Here, the canyon walls seem a bit steeper and the river with its overgrown banks a bit more enchanted.

Check out my separate article about Martvili Canyon to find out more about it.

Mestia Village Walk

Mestia is the main village in Svaneti region and has about 9300 inhabitants. The village is located at an altitude of about 1500 meters. It is the starting point of various day hikes or the popular multi-day trekking tour to Ushguli. Mestia is the tourist center of Svaneti and easily accessible. Between 2009 and 2012 the village was extensively modernized. In the process, many old houses, which were still built in the original Svanetian style, were demolished. In their place now stand chalets, reminiscent of the Swiss mountains.

Many criticize that Mestia has lost its Swanetian character due to the renovation measures and new buildings. In some parts, especially in the city center, this may be true. But there are still side streets in Mestia where everything is as it used to be. The town is particularly atmospheric when the numerous fortified towers are beautifully illuminated in the evening.

What is there to see in the city? Near the entrance to the town is the Ethnographic Museum. In the center of town you can climb the Kergiani fortified tower and walk through the winding streets of Lagami.

Tip: Mestia is the last place where you can get cash and gas for your car on the Svaneti Loop. It is best to buy some provisions, because in Ushguli there are only the most necessary things.

Hike to the Chalaati Glacier near Mestia

On this hike you can get very close to the ice masses of the Chalaati Glacier. The tongue of the mighty glacier reaches down to 1890 meters at this point and can be easily hiked during a half-day excursion. The starting point is the suspension bridge 9 kilometers north of Mestia. The trail first leads through an enchanting coniferous forest. Then it goes past the raging river, where the meltwater of the Chalaati flows off. Later, the path winds through sparse birch forest and over a boulder field. Surefootedness is required at the end. Just before the ice tongue there are many larger boulders where you can sit comfortably and have a picnic.

Length: 4.3 kilometers
Duration: approx. 2 hours plus breaks and photo stops
Height difference: 240 meters

You are planning a road trip?

Travel Guide Book – Georgia – Caucasus*

This book by OunTravela invites you to explore the wildest corners of Georgia. Along 24 routes you will discover picturesque landscapes, rugged mountains, monasteries, fortresses, and centuries-old fortified towers. In addition to detailed descriptions of the 4x4 routes, you will find a wealth of additional information about the country and its people as well as tips for your planning. The latter range from suggestions for overnight campsites to rental companies of expedition-ready 4x4 vehicles and worthwhile photo spots. You can also purchase a map and GPS tracks for navigation.

Tower of Love - Caucasian Defense Towers and the Blood Revenge

It's usually the tragic stories that stick. This is also the case here: The Tower of Love was the setting for a tragic Romeo and Juliet story.The two lovers were not allowed to marry, whereupon he committed suicide. The left girl retreated to the tower and mourned her beloved. She is said to have stayed there for the rest of her life.

You can visit the tower and also climb inside. The ladders are steep and narrow, but it is a great opportunity to see such a classic Caucasian fortified tower from the inside.

The medieval Caucasian defense towers are very common in Svaneti, especially in Mestia and Ushguli and the surrounding mountain villages. Sometimes each family unit or even each family has its own defense tower, which was visited as a defensive structure in case of conflicts, feuds or threatening blood revenge. The blood revenge works according to the principle: "what you do to me, I will do to you". So murder for murder or also murder for injury of the honor. Often the only rescue was the defense tower, where the endangered person locked himself up and let his family take care of him.  

Church of Kala "Lagurka" - Steeply up to the Place of Pilgrimage

The Kala Church of Saints Cyricus and Julitta is the most important Christian sanctuary in the Svanetian region. The medieval church is also known by the name Lagurka.

But if you want to visit the important sanctuary near the village of Khe, you first have to work for it: it's a steep climb of about 110 meters up to 1875 meters. After about 30 minutes you will reach the small church and get a bit closer to heaven. And from up here you also have a heavenly view of the surrounding mountains.

The small hall church was built at the end of the 10th or beginning of the 12th century and is an important example of Georgian medieval monumental art. Inside it is decorated with frescoes by Tevdore from 1111 and 1112. Besides, there are many other church objects from different periods, such as manuscripts, crosses and icons.

Ushguli Village Walk with Fortified Towers and Museums

Ushguli is probably the most famous mountain village in Svanetia. The village is characterized by fortified towers, traditional Svanetian architecture, narrow bumpy streets and the white peak of the Shchara glacier (5201 m). You feel as if you are immersed in a time long gone. And because of that, the place is also listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1996.

Facts about Ushguli:
Elevation: about 2150 m
Distance from Mestia: 44 kilometers
Population: about 200  

The tranquil mountain village is inhabited only by about 70 to 80 families all year round. Anyone who does not leave Ushguli in the fall is snowed in there for the winter. The road to Mestia does not open again until next spring. In summer, the number of inhabitants doubles. In addition, there are n many tourists, because Ushguli is a popular destination for nature lovers and hikers. There are numerous inns where you can stay overnight, eat, and organize mountain guides and horseback rides.

How to get to Ushguli?

We drove from Mestia to Ushguli as self-drivers with our rented Lada Niva. However, many visitors hire a driver in Mestia and are dropped off and picked up. This is a practical solution for those who do not have a four-wheel drive vehicle or for whom the mountain road is too narrow.

Another option is to hike from Mestia to Ushguli. The five-day tour is the most popular multi-day hike in Georgia. You can return from Ushguli with a driver, which you can easily arrange at a local inn.

What else is there to see in Ushguli besides breathtaking nature and mountain panoramas?

The many fortified towers and the beautiful Swanetian architecture can best be explored during a short walk through the village. Let yourself drift and you will discover many exciting details. Don't miss the Ethnographic Museum and the Museum of Maria on the way. From here, I recommend you visit the Lamaria Church on the outskirts of town (don't forget your headscarf). It dates from the 10th century and is decorated inside with medieval frescoes. Back on the main road, the tower of Tamar overlooks all the surrounding buildings. It stands on a small hill. You can climb up a ladder and take a look inside.

With Traildogs to the Shchara Glacier

A really nice hike starting in Ushguli is the tour to the Shchara glacier. With 5.201 meters the Shchara is the highest mountain in Georgia and the third highest in the whole Caucasus. You can already see the glacier from the village of Ushguli in the distance. It is the perfect background for a photo of the historical village with its fortified towers (the light is best in the late afternoon).

To get to the glacier, follow the Enguri River uphill through the river valley. On the way there (about 9 kilometers) you will have the glacier in view the whole time. Super beautiful, especially when the valley is covered with colorful wildflowers in summer. But what makes a good hike even better is good company: Trail dogs! Even before I traveled to Georgia, I heard about the dogs that accompany hikers on the trails. I wished soooo much that some dogs would find us, too. And suddenly they were there! They accompanied us the whole hike. With that they not only earned themselves a good half of our food but also a name. And since they kept us company in the camp after the hike, Mr. Spock and Dali also had dinner and breakfast.

Tip: Take some extra food with you (for the dogs) and pack some cash (for a snack at Alpine Camp if the dogs have devoured all your food).

Here are the facts about the hike:

Start: bridge over the Enguri River just past the monastery.
Length: about 18,4 kilometers
Height difference: about 500 meters
Difficulty: Easy hike over a gravel road. Behind the alpine camp the path becomes narrower and is quite overgrown in places. Only shortly before the glacier a scree slope has to be crossed. Surefootedness is required here. The Pakvlashi stream crosses the path and is either to be crossed or can be bypassed laterally. Later you can return to the gravel path via two small improvised bridges.
Refreshments: At the end of the gravel road the Alpin Camp invites you for a refreshment.

Tip: Horses can be rented in town to take you to the Alpin Camp.

Colorful Mountain Meadows - Hike to Gvinari Pass south of Ushguli

Most people who visit Ushguli hike to the Shchara Glacier. But what actually lies in the opposite direction, south of Ushguli? Here we found the most beautiful wildflower meadow we have seen in Georgia. So many different plants and insects really amazed us. The trail starts south of the village of Murkmeli and goes continuously uphill. It is also the trail to the Gvinari Pass at 2972 meters. We didn't make it all the way to the pass because we made so many photo stops due to the many beautiful plants and we started too late anyway.

The round trip from Murkmeli to the pass and back is about 9 kilometers long with an elevation gain of about 920 meters. On the way you can make a stop at the castle ruins of Ushguli. Since the paths are often narrow and / or somewhat overgrown, a GPS is useful.

Drive from Ushguli over Zagari Pass to Sasaschi

The road from Mestia to Ushguli was already breathtakingly beautiful. But the road up to the 2623 meter high Zagari Pass puts everything in the shade again. Definitely the most beautiful section of our road trip in Swanetia. The unpaved road leads further and further uphill and you feel like in the cinema: mountain panoramas, glaciers, lush meadows. We had to stop again and again on the way to enjoy the view.

After the pass, we descend in several switchbacks and we are quickly back in forested terrain. We follow the river valley of the Zcheniszchali. After the mountain idyll and the absolute seclusion at the pass we now landed on a long construction site. Here the road is being expanded and we had to share the narrow path with excavators, dump trucks and other construction site vehicles. But in return we were rewarded again and again with shorter paved road sections. At some point, the route is then paved throughout and we come through several small villages.

Surprise in the Front Garden - Statue of Stalin near Sasaschi

Georgia is full of surprises. During our road trip in Georgia we saw so many remarkable things, we couldn't stop so fast and so often. Among them were many small details, especially beautiful architecture, lost places, old village entrance signs, monuments and statues. So it was here, on the Svaneti Loop just behind the village of Sasaschi. We didn't believe our eyes when suddenly an oversized statue of Stalin focused on us. It stands fenced in on a private property. The somewhat dilapidated looking building behind it looks tiny compared to the statue.

Incredulous, I grab my camera and look for the best perspective in front of the fence. An UAZ comes by and honks at me. The driver waves at me and gives me a thumbs up. Thumbs up for Stalin? This seems more than strange to me, but it is actually not unusual in Georgia. After all, Stalin was born in Georgia. And many Georgians are proud that one of their countrymen took over the leadership of the Soviet Union.

Tip: Not far from Tbilisi is the city of Gori, where Stalin was born. The Stalin Museum was opened here in 1957 in his honor. Don't expect a detailed rehash of the atrocities the dictator committed during his reign here. It's more like a big cult palace, even souvenirs like coffee mugs, fridge magnets, baseball caps or backgammon games with Stalin's portrait are available here. was opened here in 1957 in his honor. Don't expect a detailed rehash of the atrocities the dictator committed during his reign here. It's more like a big cult palace, even souvenirs like coffee mugs, fridge magnets, baseball caps or backgammon games with Stalin's portrait are available here.

Lentechi - Refueling please!

After the remote mountain villages in Upper Svaneti, Lentechi seemed almost like a big city to us. Here we treated ourselves to the luxury of a spacious hotel room with a hot shower at Hotel Svaneti. We also refueled our Lada for the first time after Mestia.

Lentechi is located in Lower Svaneti and has about 947 inhabitants. Most of them (felt) gathered on Saturday evening on the central square directly in front of our hotel window. Here they were chatting, playing and dancing. However, we did not mingle with the crowds because of the rather high covid numbers in Georgia.  

What is there to see here in Lentechi? First of all, the promenade on the median strip of the main street is something special. To the left and right of the road there are many beautiful metal gates to admire. A statue of a shepherd boy reaching for the stars decorates the central square. At the end of the village, on the central island of the traffic circle, there is a typical stele from the Soviet period. There is also a small local museum a castle and a number of Georgian Orthodox church buildings from the 9th to 11th centuries.

Goodbye, Svaneti!

From Lentechi our road trip continues along a conveniently passable national road through the valley of the Zcheniszqali. The big city of Kutaisi is about 90 kilometers away. However, we continue in the direction of Tbilisi. The capital is about 350 kilometers away. On the route there are several places worth seeing, so we divide the trip into several days. First we visit Kazchi Pillar with the tiny monastery on the rocky peak, then Chiatura with the legendary cable cars and finally the Stalin Museum in Gori.

Tips for Campsites for the Night

In Georgia "wild camping" is allowed. So you don't have to stay at a campsite during your Georgia road trip, but you are allowed to look for your own campsite.

Please note:

• Keep your distance from houses.
• Do not camp on private land or agricultural land.
• Respect nature, wildlife and grazing animals.
• Do not drive cross-country to get to a campsite. Instead, use existing tracks.
• Do not leave trash or food scraps behind.
• Bury your "organic trash" after your morning toilet.

How we found our pitches? We searched the free app Maps.Me for dashed lines that disappeared into nowhere. Most of the time, that's where we found our pitches. Sometimes there were also hints of possible campsites on the map. We also used the app iOverlando. Well, you don't need much space for camping with the small Lada Niva anyway.

Possible sites at Martvili Canyon:

Before the ford on the half-dried riverbed of the Abasha (if the water level of the river allows it and no big rain events are expected in the higher mountains). GPS: 42°28'41.6″N 42°22'46.4″E

Possible pitches at the Svaneti Loop in Mestia:

• At the old Soviet lodge overlooking the town. GPS: 43°03'10.8″N 42°45'32.3″E
• At the river Mestiachala in the direction of Chalaadi glacier. Here you even have a fresh water source nearby.

Possible pitches at Svaneti Loop in Ushguli:

• Campsite behind the monastery. GPS: 42°55'18.2″N 43°01'26.6″E
• On the bank of the Enguri River behind the campsite
• On the bank of the Enguri River in the direction of the Shchara Glacier.

Shopping, Food, Money and Refueling

I always like to do my grocery shopping in the places I visit. That way, the locals also get something out of my stay. However, the supply in Mestia and Ushguli is very limited. If you don't want to do without certain products, it's best to buy them in advance in a larger supermarket in Kutaisi.

You can buy fruits, vegetables and bread in Mestia opposite the central square Seti Square in the main street Zugdidi Jvari Mestia Lasdili.

If you walk down the main street a bit further into the town, you will come to some restaurants overlooking the Mestiachala River. Here it is nice to sit.

In Ushguli some inns have small stores where you can buy pasta, chips, cookies and bread. The offer is very limited. However, you can order food in most of the inns. We liked to eat at the Café Koshki and buy some cakes for the hikes.

In Mestia you should withdraw enough cash and fill up your carfor the Svaneti Loop. Especially if your car has such a small tank like the Lada Niva (42 liters). In Ushguli there is neither an ATM nor a gas station. The next gas station is in Lentechi (as of 07/2021).

Condition of the Roads on the Svaneti Loop

The road between Mestia and Ushguli is snow-covered and impassable for up to six months of the year. If you want to drive the Svaneti Loop at the beginning of the season, ask the locals if the road is already open again. But even if you go in the middle or at the end of the season, you should ask in advance if the route is passable. Due to its location, the Svaneti Loop is particularly vulnerable to landslides or slope failures, especially during the rainy months from October to May.

Don't miss it! I put together a little video from our road trip in Georgia. Among other things, it shows the roads in Kura Valley and Swaneti. It is soooo fun to watch. Have a look right now.

Kutaisi - Mestia:

Route via Zqaltubo and Martvili Canyon (221 km): Scenic, mostly paved road. Often the road leads through villages and is difficult to overlook. After about 115 kilometers you reach the larger road, which is curvy and leads steadily uphill, but can be driven quickly. Tip: plan an extra day and visit the former spa town of Zqaltubo, the Prometheus Cave and the Martvili Canyon on the way.

Route via Sugdidi (251 km): You will drive on the well-maintained roads E60 and E97. The route is longer, but easier to drive.

Mestia – Ushguli (46,5 km): The drive to Ushguli takes about two hours. At first, it goes quite quickly on an asphalt road. The last kilometers are unpaved. The route runs parallel to the Enguri River. On the left side the mountains rise steeply and on the right side the road descends steeply. Some sections are so narrow that no two cars can pass each other. However, we always had an alternate spot nearby and did not have to back up. However, the route can quickly become a challenge in rain and fog. Therefore, it is best to plan a reserve day so that you can wait for better weather in Mestia.

Ushguli – Zagari Pass – Lentechi (46 km): Dirt road over Zagari Pass with descent in switchbacks. In the Zseskho river valley, road works were carried out over a long stretch in the summer of 2021 and some sections were already paved.

Sasaschi – Lentechi – Kutaisi (118 km): Here you drive on a paved road. The closer you get to Kutaisi, the better it gets. Tip: if you didn't make a stop in Zqaltubo on the way there, you have the opportunity to do so now.

Conclusion - is the Svaneti Loop worth it?

A clear YES! We liked it so much in Svaneti that we even changed our travel plans and extended our road trip in Svaneti. Besides, the weather there was much better than in the Kazbek region, where we actually wanted to go. We postponed the latter to our next trip to Georgia. It was clear to us that we would come back and do another road trip in Georgia. And definitely again with one of the cool Lada Niva from Overlando.

Anyone who likes nature, hiking, remoteness and bumpy roads will love the Svaneti Loop. However, a four-wheel drive vehicle is a must have here. But that's what makes the route so appealing. The Lada Niva mastered all routes without any problems. Of course it is important to catch a time window with good weather. Therefore, it would be optimal if your schedule is somewhat flexible. Because when it rains, driving on the tracks is no fun and, depending on the intensity, can be a bit risky.

And how was the Lada Niva with Roof Tent?

The little Lada Niva handled all the tracks great. With all our luggage, everything was a bit cramped at the beginning. But we quickly got used to it and distributed our things optimally in the car. The roof tent was spacious and easy to put up and take down. Perfect were the windows in the roof tent. From these we could see the mountains right after waking up or the dogs that slept next to our Lada Niva. Overlando also equipped the Lada Niva with a kitchen box including a gas stove as well as camping chairs and a small table. What more does one need?

Book Recommendations for Georgia

Do you want to know where the journey is going? Then I can recommend this travel guides* to you.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Have you ever been on a road trip in Svaneti or any other region in Georgia? How did you like it? Do you have any questions about my article? If yes, then write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

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Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love road trips as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about a Road Trip in Albania or about the einen weitern Road Trip around the Baltic Sea.

Der Beitrag Roadtrip Georgien: im 4×4 Lada Niva von Kutaissi durch Swanetien erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Scotland. Scotland. Mystical stone circles, prehistoric settlements, rugged cliffs, white sandy beaches and woolly sheep. Welcome to the Orkneys! The islands in the north of Scotland enchant with their very own beauty and historical heritage. The Stone Age settlers, the Vikings and even the World Wars have left their mark on the islands. Read on to find out where the most exciting stories and the most beautiful landscapes are. In addition, there are a lot of practical tips for your road trip on the Orkney Islands.

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links*.

General Information about the Orkney Islands
Karte der Highlights und unserer “Campsites”
#1 Skara Brae - the Heart of Neolithic Orkney
#2 Skaill House - Orkney's haunted House
#3 The Falconry at Skaill House
#4 Ring of Brodgar - mystic Stone Circle
#5 Standing Stones of Stenness and Barnhouse Village
#6 Stromness Museum
#7 Coastal walk Yesnaby to North Gaulton Castle
#8 Brough of Birsay
#9 Enigmatic Whalebone Sculpture of the Orkneys
#10 Broch of Gurness
#11 St. Magnus Cathedral in Kirkwall
#12 Bay Inganess with the shipwreck Juniata
#13 Italian Chapel - the Miracle of Camp 60
#14 Churchill Barriers and Block Wrecks
#15 Hoxa Head Coastal Artillery Battery - Lost Place on the Orkneys
#16 “Old Man of Hoy” – Sea Stack auf den Orkneys
#17 Rackwick Bay - the most beautiful Beach of the Orkneys
What else is there?

General Information about the Orkney Islands

The Orkney Islands are an archipelago of about 70 islands and invite to a road trip with island hopping. However, only about 16 islands are inhabited. The largest and most important island is called "Mainland". It is connected with other islands via the “Churchill-Barriers” These include Lamb Holm, Glimpse Holm, Burray and South Ronaldsay. All other islands are only accessible by ferry or boat.

With the exception of the islands of Hoy and the Mainland, all islands are rather flat. The highest elevation is Ward Hill on Hoy with about 480 meters. Hoy and Mainland impress with their cliffs and sea stacs, such as the "Old Man of Hoy" or the Yesnaby cliffs. The rest of the islands are covered with heathland and lush green meadows.

Orkney is famous for its historical heritage. In addition to the prehistoric ruins, the famous Stone Age village of Skara Brae and the stone circles, this also includes the numerous abandoned military installations and - under water - the shipwrecks of Scapa Flow from the First World War.The islands are therefore not only popular with historians, hiking enthusiasts and hobby ornithologists - also divers like to come to dive the wrecks. These lie around 30 to 40 meters deep, it is cold and dark. This is only something for divers with dry suits and appropriate practice.For less experienced divers, however, there is the possibility to dive at the block wrecks at shallower depths.

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Map of Highlights and Campsites from our Road Trip on the Orkney Islands

The following highlights are just some of the Orkney sights you can visit during your road trip. They are limited to the main islands, which are connected, and the island of Hoy.

Unfortunately, in September 2020 we couldn't visit all the places we would have liked to see. Some places had closed because of Covid-19.

On the map of the Orkney Islands you will find the highlights of our road trip and suggestions for possible places to pitch a tent.And that you can dive right in, I have also uploaded a small photo for each high light in the map.

#1 Skara Brae - the Heart of Neolithic Orkney

After a violent storm in 1850, the former owner of Skaill House, William Graham Watt, made a remarkable discovery. In the Bay of Skaill, the storm exposed strange stone formations. Upon closer examination, the remains of stone houses became apparent. Watt led excavations in the following years and uncovered a prehistoric settlement. The remains found are up to 5,000 years old. The Neolithic village of Skara Brae is probably the best known and most important excavation site in Orkney. Skara Brae is also considered to be the best preserved Neolithic settlement in the whole of Europe. The "heart of Neolithic Orkney" is therefore often called the Pompeii of Scotland. Skara Brae has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999.

In a visitor center you can learn details about life in the Neolithic Age and the archaeological excavations in Skara Brae. Replicas of the stone houses show vividly what it must have looked like inside at that time.

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#2 Skaill House - Orkney's haunted House

Skaill House is often called Orkney's haunted house. But what is it all about? From the outside it looks like a typical Scottish manor house.

The house is isolated on the west coast of Orkney-Mainland near the archaeological site of Skara Brae. It was built in the 1620s by Bishop George Graham as a simple manor house. His son became Laird of Orkney. Since then, the house has been constantly expanded - space was needed for the family, for souvenirs, for guests and their numerous gifts. Over the course of 400 years, quite a few things have accumulated: a tiger skin from India, a tea service from Captain James Cook's last voyage, a flag of the Bolsheviks from 1919, and much more.

Skaill House has been open to visitors since 1997. The house is a real treasure chest, with artifacts from all over the world. Everything is lovingly arranged and carefully labeled. A truly worthwhile visit.

But something remains hidden from the visitor's eye: the skeletons under the wooden floor in the entrance area. They were found when the old stone floor was replaced with a wooden one. Research revealed that the south wing of Skaill House was partially built on an old Pictish cemetery. In order not to disturb the peace of the graves, the remains were put back. So it is logical that there are also stories about ghost sightings in Skaill House. Ubby is the name of the ghost and he is a man who is said to have built up an island in the neighboring Loch of Skail for years.

Tip: after sightseeing in Skara Brae and at Skaill House, you can laze around a bit in the nearby sandy cove . Tip for camping: Do you want to spend the night in a tent on your road trip across the Orkney Islands? Then this would be a good place to pitch your tent.

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#3 The Falconry at Skaill House

A visit to the falconry at Skaill House is also worthwhile. It is located directly across from the entrance to the magnificent mansion. In the only falconry on the northern island of Scotland you can see owls, falcons and other birds of prey. You will learn about the animals, their training and falconry itself.

I was skeptical at first, because birds of prey have no business in captivity in my opinion. When I learned that the falconers walk their birds while they fly freely behind them doing their own thing, I was quite amazed. All the birds you see here can hunt on their own and might just fly away during training. If there wasn't a connection between the animals and their keepers.

In addition to flight demonstrations by the falconers, you will also have the opportunity to hold the falcon or owl yourself or have it land on your outstretched arm. With the appropriate inviting posture and a piece of meat on the leather glove, the four-kilogram eagle owl also landed on my hand and even let me scratch its belly.

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#4 Ring of Brodgar - mystic Stone Circle

Only 21 of the 60 monoliths are still standing today, but the stone circle is so big that you can hardly see it with one look. With a diameter of 104 meters it is the third largest stone circle in Great Britain.Only those at Avebury and Stanton Drew are larger. Most of the stones are around two meters high. But one is particularly large - a full five meters is said to be it.

Wind and weather of the last 4,700 years have left their mark on the stones. One of the stones was even split by a lightning strike. All of them are overgrown with mosses and lichens, and when you take a closer look, they shimmer greenish and yellowish in some places. A great contrast when the heather blooms! When dark clouds hang over the monoliths, the mystical atmosphere here is perfect. How might it have been here in the past, when people came here to participate in unknown rituals?

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#5 Standing Stones of Stenness and Barnhouse Village

The prehistoric Standing Stones of Stenness impress by their size. They are up to six meters high, more than three and a half times as tall as I am. A sheep seems tiny next to these stone giants. Today there are only three Standing Stones left. But about 5000 years ago there were twelve stone giants forming a circle with a diameter of 44 meters. A two-meter deep ditch surrounded the stones, and in the center was a large fireplace. Who or what was worshipped here, nobody knows exactly.

What would Scotland be without its legends and myths?And of course there is also a story about the Standing Stones of Stenness: the stones are actually fossilized giants. Every year, around New Year, they come to life. During the nights, the giants then go to the nearby hole to drink from it. Whoever observes them doing so is haunted by bad luck.

North of the Standing Stones is Barnhouse Village,which is also about 5000 years old. It once consisted of 15 houses. The settlement is said to have been similar to Skara Brae. There is even said to have been stone furniture, stoves and beds. Today, only the remains of the walls of four houses are preserved.

By the way: The name "Stenness" comes from the old nordic word "Stein - nes", which means "stone place".

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#6 Stromness Museum

The small museum in Stromness is a real treasure chest. The exhibition is lovingly prepared and a colorful mixture of almost everything. Sometimes the exhibits seem a bit jumbled - next to stuffed animals are red pumps. But the logic behind it usually becomes clearer when reading the texts on the display cases.

The exhibition begins on the first floor with maritime and wartime history,including the famous wrecks of Scapa Flow.At the back of the building, Orkney-born polar explorer John Rae paddles one of the world's first inflatable boats. He is looking for traces of the lost Franklin Expedition - and makes a find. Inuit art and polar clothing complement the exhibits about Rae's expeditions.

The upper floor continues with the themes of archaeology, ethnology and natural history.Native birds impress with their size in display cases, and tiny shells are carefully arranged in showcases.

All in all, very worthwhile. Allow at least 45 minutes for your visit. Current opening hours and entrance fees can be found here.

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#7 Coastal walk Yesnaby to North Gaulton Castle

The coastline at Yesnaby is one of the most beautiful in Orkney.A short walk offers spectacular views of a wild cliff with seastacks, caves and rock arches. In summer, numerous seabirds breed on the rugged cliffs. At the foot of the cliffs, the waves crash thunderously against the rocks. During or shortly after a storm from the west, the waves are especially high, making the hike an unforgettable experience.

From the parking lot you walk the coastal path always south. There are several trails. Some of the paths go around the headlands and are a bit longer, others connect the bays on the shortest way. Just let yourself drift and go exploring.

The North Gaulton Castleis a seastack about 52 meters high. It is the highlight of the hike and was also the turning point for us. But only after we enjoyed the view at a long picnic.

Length: about 7.5 kilometers
Duration: at least 2.5 hours
Starting point: Mainland; parking at the former flak positions of Yesnaby, at the end of the road to Yesnaby

Book recommendation:
This and 49 other hikes can be found described in detail and with GPS tracks in the Rother hiking guide*.

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#8 Brough of Birsay

The Brough of Birsay is a tidal island in the northwest of the main island of Orkney. The main attraction of the island are the archaeological remains of a Pictish settlement as well as remains of Viking buildings.

Birsay is accessible only during low tide via a narrow concrete causeway. The time window for a visit begins about two hours before low tide and ends about two hours after. Click here for the tide table.

When the sea recedes, the rocky seabed with countless tide pools is revealed. The rocks as well as the cliffs are great photo opportunities and there is much to discover. Maybe you will be lucky and find one of the coveted cowrie shells.

By the way, in summer Birsay is supposed to be one of the best places to watch puffins. Unfortunately we didn't see any. Because in August the puffins leave their breeding caves and spend the rest of the year on the open sea. Only in April/May of the next year they come back to the land to breed.

At the northwest end of the island stands a small unmanned lighthouseIt was built in 1925 by David Alan Stevenson. The Stevensons built lighthouses for several generations and are famous in Scotland as a lighthouse building family.

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#9 Enigmatic Whalebone Sculpture of the Orkneys

It looks like an owl sitting on a wooden post. Just now, it spreads its wings and starts to fly. But as you get closer, you realize that the owl is a big bone. The post is also a bone. Two huge whale bones are stuck together here to form a strange sculpture. How did the bones get here? And for what purpose was the Whalebone sculpture erected here in Orkney? Learn more in my separate article about the Whalebone sculpture at Birsay.

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#10 Broch of Gurness

The Broch of Gurness is an Iron Age settlement located on a beautiful stretch of coastline in the north of Mainland. It consisted of about 14 houses arranged around a central tower. With a diameter of 20 meters and a height of 3.5 meters, the Broch of Gurness is the largest preserved tower of its kind.For defense, ramparts and ditches were built around the settlement.

The site is about 2000 years old. It was excavated in the late 1930s and is amazingly well preserved. Besides the remains from the Iron Age, the excavations also found evidence of later use of the site by Picts and Vikings.

Unlike Skara Brae, you can walk among the ruins and go inside the remains of the houses and the tower. Information boards explain what there is to see. Among them are a stone toilet, shelves, beds, fireplaces and a washbasin for possible ritual purposes.

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#11 St. Magnus Cathedral in Kirkwall

The northernmost cathedral in Britain is dedicated to St. Magnus of Orkney. Magnus lived around 1100 AD. As Earls of Orkney, he and his cousin Hakon ruled the islands. But as can happen in the best of families, Hakon betrayed Magnus and had him executed. Shortly thereafter, miracles occurred on the Orkneys. Who else, if not the Christian Magnus, could have caused these miracles?

The cathedral is built of different colored sandstone, which gives it a very distinctive look. And there is something else that makes the cathedral special: St. Magnus has its own dungeon - "Marwick's Hole".

The cathedral is surrounded by a graveyard where, among others, the Scottish Arctic explorer Dr. John Rae found his burial place. Inside the cathedral there is also a memorial to the explorer from the Orkneys.

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#12 Bay Inganess with the shipwreck Juniata

Bay Inganess is a picturesque bay with an extremely photogenically placed shipwreck - the Juniata. The tanker was completed under the name Sprucol in 1918. Then on April 17, 1940, the ship was sunk under the name Juniata. Thus, the Juniata became part of the fourth Churchill Barrier between South Ronaldsay and Burray islands. Nine years later, however, she was lifted and was to be taken to a shipbreaking yard. But the condition of the wreck was already so bad that she was beached again in Bay Inganess. Only the stern was apparently salvaged. All that remains is the bow of the ship, which now overlooks the beach as a rusty piece of wreckage.

Opposite the Bay Inganess is a nice picnic area and there is a loop trail with bird-watching opportunities.

Tip for camping: Do you want to spend the night in a tent on your road trip across the Orkney Islands? Then this would be a good place to pitch your tent.

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#13 Italian Chapel - the Miracle of Camp 60

The Italian war prisoners who built the Churchill Barriers built an Italian chapel on Lamb Holm. Beginning in 1942, the "Miracle of Camp 60" was constructed with the simplest of means from two Nissen huts joined together. Today, the Italian Chapel is one of Orkney's main attractions and is also in the highest category of the Scottish Heritage List.

The first thing the prisoners made was a figure of St. George, the dragon slayer. With the permission of the camp director and under the direction of Domenico Chiocchetti, the prisoners of war brought a bit of home to the north with the chapel. Everyone contributed something to the realization of the Miracle. In 1944 the chapel was finally finished. However, Camp 60 was disbanded shortly thereafter - the war was over and the Churchill Barriers were completed. The chapel, built with much love, remained unused and threatened with decay.

In 1960, the then site manager Domenico Chiocchetti was invited to Orkney. Together with local craftsmen he restored the Italian Chapel. In 1992, exactly 50 years after construction began, the prisoners of that time came back to Lambs Holm and celebrated a Mass together in their "Miracle of Camp 60."

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#14 Churchill Barriers and Block Wrecks

Scapa Flow Bay was the most important base for the Royal Navy during both world wars. Due to the surrounding islands, the ships were well protected here during storms. However, on October 14, 1939, the German submarine U 47 entered the bay and subsequently sank the battleship HMS Royal Oak, killing 833 men.

In order to protect the fleet from further attacks by German submarines, British Prime Minister Winston Churchill subsequently ordered the construction of barriers. The Churchill Barriers were thereafter to prevent passage for ships between the islands of Mainland, Lamb Holm, Glimbs Holm, Burray and South Ronaldsay. To this end, ships were initially sunk in the passages beginning in May 1940. This was followed by 40,000 cubic meters of stone and 300,000 tons of concrete blocks. The dams were declared at the time as a necessary road construction project to connect the individual islands. In fact, with this trick, prisoners of war could be used for the work. This was because, according to the Geneva Convention, the use of prisoners of war was only allowed for civilian purposes, not for military ones. The 1,300 Italian war prisoners worked on the barriers for five years at that time. On May 12, 1945 - at the end of the war - the road link across the Churchill Barriers was finally opened.

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#15 Hoxa Head Coastal Artillery Battery - Lost Place on the Orkneys

The Orkney Islands are littered with relics from the two world wars. Especially well known are the Churchill Barriers and the wrecks of Scapa Flow. But no less impressive are the numerous ruins of bunkers and defense installations on the Orkneys, for example at Hoxa Head. A circular walk along the coast leads past the ruins of the coastal artillery battery and gives you an idea of the strategic importance of the Orkneys at that time. Since I found the place so exciting, I have a separate article about the Coastal Artillery Battery Hoxa Head .

Tip for camping: Do you want to spend the night in a tent on your road trip across the Orkney Islands? On the way to Hoxa Head you will pass a beach with a toilet house. This would be a good place to pitch your tent.

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#16 “Old Man of Hoy” – Sea Stack auf den Orkneys

If there is a "Must Do" on Orkney's island of Hoy, it is a visit to the old man - the "Old Man of Hoy". This is because the popular coastal walk leads to one of Scotland's most famous Sea Stacks.The rewarding hike is rounded off by stunning views along the rugged red sandstone cliffs as well as good opportunities for bird watching. Learn more in my separate article about the Hike to the "Old Man of Hoy" incl. practical Tips.

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#17 Rackwick Bay - the most beautiful Beach of the Orkneys

It is said that Rackwick Bay is the most beautiful beach in Orkney. That may well be, I have not seen a more beautiful one. It is especially beautiful in the evening light, when the sand glows golden. The big round stones decorate the beach like Christmas balls. I have not seen anything comparable on any other beach in Orkney.

Tip: In Rackwick Bay there is a bothy where you can stay overnight.We pitched our tent here for the night. The location is beautiful, but... Midges! There were already many in the evening. But in the morning, a thick midge fog surrounded us. So, before you camp here, read my article Midges in Scotland - When? Where? What helps?

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What else is there?

During the Covid Summer 2020, unfortunately not all prehistoric sites in Orkney were open. These included the Neolithic burial chambers Maeshow Chambered Cairn on Mainland and Tomb of the Eagles and Tomb of the Otters on South Ronaldsay. We would also have liked to visit the Scapa Flow Museum on the Isle of Hoy. But it was closed for renovation. Will I travel to the Orkneys again? I am pretty sure, yes. Because besides the places mentioned before, I would like to plunge into the floods and dive to the wrecks and then warm up again on land while watching the cute puffins.

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Book Recommendations for your Road Trip to the Orkney Islands

Do you want to know where the journey is going? Then I can recommend this travel guides* to you.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Do you know the Orkneys? What did you like best there? Do you have any questions or suggestions to my article? If so, please write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

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Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love wild coasts and lonely landscapes as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about a Kayak Tour in the Swedish Archipelago or a Trekking Tour to the Greenlandic Ice Sheet.

Der Beitrag Orkney Inseln: Sehenswertes und Tipps für euren Roadtrip mit Zelt erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

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Roadtrip North Coast 500 in Scotland - the Route
Highlights of the North Coast 500 in Scotland
East Coast - Inverness to John O'Groats
North Coast - John O'Groats to Durness
West Coast - Durness to the Applecross Peninsula
Inland - Applecross Peninsula to Inverness
Before getting started - Planning the Road Trip
Driving in Scotland - Left-hand Traffic
Dos and Don'ts on the Single Track Roads
Little Pests: Scotland Midges and Ticks

Roadtrip North Coast 500 in Scotland - the Route

The North Coast 500 (NC 500) is a circuit around the northern tip of Scotland. The entire route is 807 kilometers (502 miles) long and consists largely of single track roads. You will find these mainly on the west coast, where the landscape is particularly impressive. The map below gives you a first overview. I have marked interesting places with a red dot. There is also a photo for each point, so that you know immediately what to expect there.

The route of the North Coast 500 starts in Inverness, the metropolis of the Scottish Highlands. From here it continues over the Dornoch Firth in a north-easterly direction to John O'Groats. Here you can see the Orkney Islands for the first time. Then the route turns to the west and soon the northernmost point of the British main island at Dunnet Head is reached. Then follows a beautiful drive along the coast with several white sandy beaches like in a picture book. The stately waves turn some of the beaches into surf hotspots, for example around Thurso.

The route that now follows from Durness to Ullapool is the most spectacular section of the NC500, because here are the legendary Highlands, white beaches and bizarre rocky coasts as you know them from advertising brochures. The Assynt region near Ullapool combines the best that the Highlands have to offer. The high mountains like the Suilven invite you to challenging hikes. The fishing location Ullapool is the base for many outdoor sportsmen and also the only larger city on the northwest coast.

The tour continues into the Wester Ross region, from where there are views of the Isle of Skye. In the coastal town of Gairloch, boat trips promise good chances to observe whales, dolphins or basking sharks. But the icing on the cake of the NC 500 is the breathtaking Bealach Na Ba Pass on the Applecross Peninsula. In hairpin bends, the single track road winds steeply up to 626 meters and just as steeply down again. From here the way back to Inverness begins.

Tip: Do you have a little more time? Then a side trip to the Orkneysis worthwhile. The islands are littered with prehistoric relics and ruins from both world wars. There are also great hiking possibilities along the coast and white sandy beaches invite you to dream. With the car ferries from Thurso or Gils you reach the islands after about one hour. You should plan at least two to three days for the Orkneys.

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Highlights of the North Coast 500 in Scotland

Along the North Coast 500 there is something to discover every few kilometers. Both those interested in history and outdoor enthusiasts get their money's worth. And besides the actual sights, there are rainbows, highland cattle and sheep, which give the road trip its special character. And with a lot of luck, you can even see the See Northern Lights .

Not to be missed:

• Noss Head with the Ruins of Sinclair Girnigoe Castle
• Duncansby Head Sea Stacks and Cave
• Dunnet Head – Northernmost Point of the British Main Island
• Melvich Beach - golden Sand and Surfers Dream
• Strathy Point Lighthouse
• Smoo Cave
• Balnakeil Beach and cemetery with Church Ruin
• Lighthouse of Stoer and Hike to the "Old Man of Stoer"
• Bealach Na Ba Pass - the highest Road Rise in Britain
• Jumping Salmon at the Rogie Falls

We drove the North Coast 500 in September 2020. The time was overshadowed by Covid-19,because many tour operators were closed for the whole season or had limited their offers. We also skipped visits to castles or distilleries along the NC500. So in my article you will find guided tours, indoor visits and also sights we missed otherwise only as "more ideas" .

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East Coast - Inverness to John O'Groats

Inverness - Start and End of the North Coast 500 Road Trip

Our road trip North Coast 500 begins and ends in Inverness. The northernmost city in Great Britain is not only the gateway to the north, but also the cultural center of the Highlands. There are several places of interest, for example the Highland Museum, the Cathedral, Old High St. Stephen's Church and the Victorian Market. The Inverness Castle towers above the city on a cliff overlooking the Ness River. The architect William Burn built the castle of red sandstone in 1836 on the site of an 11th century fortress.

Stone Towers from the Iron Age - Broch Cairn Liath

In the Iron Age, i.e. between 200 B.C. and 200 A.D., hundreds of so-called Brochs were built in northern Scotland. The Brochs are round, windowless towers made of dry masonry. Typical Brochs have a diameter of 10 to 15 m and are up to 15 m high. It is assumed that the towers were residences of the landowning population. Presumably they were built by wealthy families for reasons of prestige. They are mostly located in strategic places, such as hills, peninsulas or islands. Some Brochs are located along the route of the North Coast 500, for example Cairn Liath, Nybster or Clachtoll.

Whaligoe Steps - 365 Steps to the Port

Are you free from vertigo? About 365 steps lead down to a small sheltered harbour. However, the descent is a bit adventurous. Because there is no railing and the steps are partly in bad condition. But you have a great view of the cliffs and can even watch breeding seabirds. Perfect to stretch your legs a little after some kilometers of road.

Noss Head with the Ruins of Sinclair Girnigoe Castle

At the headland of Noss Head is the most beautiful ruin on the east coast. Located directly on the cliffs, the ruins seem to merge with the cliffs and sea stacks. But the walls are actually two castles that were built here at Sinclair's Bay. First there was Girnigoe Castle, completed in the 15th century. Whereby the name Castle is a bit exaggerated. Because it was actually only a tower house. Until the 17th century, various extensions were built - these were then called Sinclair Castle. It is said that secret passages lead into rock caves - unfortunately they are no longer accessible. In 1690 the castles were finally besieged, destroyed and not repaired.

Duncansby Head - spectacular Sea Stacks and Cave

The lighthouse at Duncansby Head marks the northeasternmost point of the British main island. Countless seabirds breed on spectacular cliffs - puffins, fulmars, kittiwakes, gulls, razorbills and black guillemots. From a hiking trail you have a breathtaking view of the 60 meter high cliffs, bizarre sea stacks and a sea cave. But even more exciting is climbing down into the bay.This is possible at the lowest point of the cliffs, a rope will help you climb down. Also for the seals our visit at the beach seemed to be very exciting. During our walk in the bay we were observed by three seals the whole time.

John O’Groats – “Land’s End” im Norden

The town of John O'Groats with its 300 inhabitants is often referred to as the northernmost point of the British main island. But it is by no means. Dunnet Head lies two kilometers further north. But if you look for the greatest distance between two places on the main island, you will find it between John O'Groats in the north and Lizard Point in the south. These 1,406 kilometers are popular with road trippers, cyclists and dedicated hikers. And those who have traveled across the country like to pose at the signpost at John O'Groats harbor for a photo.

Tip: John O'Groats Ferries offers day trips on the Orkneys and Wildlife Cruises. .

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North Coast - John O'Groats to Durness

Castle of Mey - Summer Residence of the Queen Mother

The 16th century castle was the summer residence of the Queen Mother. She bought it in 1952 in a rather dilapidated condition and has spent her summer vacations here every August since. Prince Charles still comes here every July. Around the palace there are also extensive gardens that invite you to take a stroll.

Dunnet Head - Northernmost Point of the British Main Island

At Dunnet Head the wind blows around one' s ears. The northernmost point of the British main island is always windy. But it also offers spectacular views of the rocky coast and the Orkney Islands. The view is especially beautiful at sunset. Besides the lighthouse there are also some ruins of a military site on Dunnet Head.

Tip: The road to Dunnet Head offers many great places for tents and campers. Don't be late, otherwise the most beautiful places will be occupied.

Surfer Hotspot Thurso

The waves in Thurso are among the highest in Europe. Well, when we were there, the waves were not quite as high. Nevertheless there were some surfers on the water. In Thurso itself there is a beach right in town. More beautiful are the beaches outside, for example at Dunnet Bay with several high dunes.

Melvich Beach - golden Sand and Surfers Dream

Melvich Beach is one of the most beautiful sandy beaches on the north coast. It is especially impressive at low tide. Then the golden beach is even a bit wider.

The beach is located directly at the route of the North Coast 500. A signposted gravel road branches off to the corresponding parking lot. A short path leads you from the parking lot through the dunes to the beach. From the parking lot you can also see a distinctive mansion on the other side of the Halladale River - the Bighouse Lodge. The house was built in 1765 and was the seat of the head of Clan Mackay.

By the way, Melvich is one of the best surf spots in the area.

Strathy Point Lighthouse

Strathy Point Lighthouse is the most photogenic lighthouse along the North Coast 500, perhaps even in all of Scotland. The best perspective? You'll find it in front of the lighthouse, seawards. Here the rough cliffs reach far out into the sea and you can take pictures of the lighthouse with the rocks in the foreground. Keep right of the lighthouse and follow the narrow path to the right headland. Then climb out on the rocks until you have found your photo perspective. And of course only as far as you feel safe.

The lighthouse at Strathy Point was the first in Scotland to be built specifically for electric operation. Completed in 1958, the tower was finally fully automated in 1997 and is now remotely controlled from Edinburgh.

Viewpoint on the Dam at Tongue

The bay "Kyle of Tongue" is crossed by a long dam. During low tide, wide sandy beaches appear in the bay. From the viewpoint on the dam you have a fantastic sight over the bay to the mountains.

Smoo Cave - Waterfall in the Cave

The sea cave Smoo Cave impresses with a huge chamber at the entrance and a waterfall inside. Smoo Cave Tours also offers geological excursions from April to October. This will take you further into the cave, partially even with an rubber dinghy. Unfortunately the tours did not take place in September 2020 because of Covid-19, so our visit ended at the waterfall chamber.

The cave is well signposted. The parking lot is directly at the North Coast 500, from where stairs lead down to the cave in a short loop.

Balnakeil - Hot Chocolate, Beach Walk and Church Ruin

The Craft Village Balnakeil was once a war warning center. Today it is a hippie village with arts and crafts, galleries and hot chocolate. From 9am you can enjoy your (second) breakfast at Cocoa Mountain . There is hot chocolate, coffee, chocolates and sweet pastries. Afterwards a walk on the wide sandy beach of Balnakeilis worthwhile. For fans of ruins I can also recommend the cemetery with a church ruin directly at the beach parking lot.

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West Coast - Durness to the Applecross Peninsula

Worthwhile Detour to Kinlochbervie

Kinlochbervie is known for its port and fish market. But a detour is worthwhile especially in good weather because of the scenic route with great views. You want to hike to the beautiful beach Sandwood Bay? Then the road to Kinlochbervie brings you almost to the starting point of your hike.

Kylesku Bridge

Until 1984 the continuation of the journey on the North Coast 500 was only possible with a ferry. But in August 1984 Queen Elizabeth II. finally opened the Kylesku Bridge, which is worth seeing. The 277 meter long and 24 meter high box girder bridge spans the Lochs Glencoul and Glendhu in an arch. From the viewpoint in front of the bridge you have a great panoramic view of the Kylesku Bridge.

Lighthouse of Stoer and Hike to the "Old Man of Stoer"

A small side road between Stoer and Clashnessie leads to the coast to the lighthouse of Stoer. Here is the starting point for an easy coastal walk to the "Old Man of Stoer". The Old Man is an about 60 meters high sea needle. I think it is the most beautiful of all I have seen. There and back it is about six kilometers walking.

Near the lighthouse it is also good for camping. A small fee is either collected in the evening or thrown into a mailbox.

On the way back from the lighthouse to the route of the NC500 I recommend a stopover at the Choc-O-Latté. Here you can spoil yourself with coffee, chocolate and delicious fresh cakes. Chickens run around freely between the tables and speculate on cake crumbs. They are just too funny.

Ardvreck Castle

What would Scotland be without its legends and spirits?The ruins of Ardweck Castle are also the subject of a scary story: The builder of the castle has promised his own daughter to the devilas a bride. In return, the devil would support him in the construction. When the time came and the devil was about to take the daughter, she threw herself off the top of the tower. Since then her spirit is said to appear in the castle.

Today not much is left of the former castle. But the remains of its walls still stand photogenic on the shore of Loch Assynt on a small peninsula. Depending on the water level this becomes an island. The castle was built in 1490 as a simple castle tower. Only about a century later the castle was extended. Right next to it there is another ruin: Calda House. It is not quite as old. The owners of the castle built it in 1726 as a modern manor house. Living in the castle was not comfortable enough for them.

Ullapool Museum

The British master builder Thomas Telford is known for the Caledonian Channel, which connects the east and west coast of Scotland. But Telford has also built churches, including the church in Ullapool. The Ullapool Museum has moved into the church building from 1829. Remains of the church furnishings are still preserved inside.

The museum informs about the history of the fishing village Ullapool. It is also the place to go for ancestry research. geht.

Corrieshalloch Gorge

Corrieshalloch Gorge is a gorge lined with tall trees. It is about 1.5 kilometers long, up to 60 meters deep and about 10 meters wide. A short walk through the forest brings you to a Victorian suspension bridge.As soon as you walk over it, it begins to swing. This creates a thrill, because directly under the bridge the waterfall Falls of Measach falls 45 meters into the depth. On the opposite side of the gorge the path then leads to another viewpoint. From here you have a beautiful view of the suspension bridge. Back on the other side of the gorge, the 2.1 kilometer long circular trail finally takes you back to the parking lot.

Corrieshalloch Gorge is a national nature reserve. A small fee is charged for access, payable at the ticket machine in the parking lot.

Beinn Eighe Nature Reserve

The Beinn Eighe Nature Reserve was established in 1951 and is the oldest reserve in Scotland. Here you can still see Caledonian pines, which once covered the whole country. The reserve is also home to martens, wild cats and eagles. Maybe you are lucky and see one or the other forest creature on your hike. At the Visitor Center near Kinlochewe you can get information about the park and the hiking trails. The possibilities range from a leisurely walk to challenging summit tours.

Delicious! Restaurant in the Walled Garden

Set in a 17th century garden surrounded by a stone wall is the award-winning Potting Shed Cafe & Restaurant. The former tearoom advertises with local ingredients and tasty dishes: the ingredients come from the 1.25 acre garden, from happy pigs and lambs and from the sea outside the front door. The fish is caught with the house-owned fishing boat. For breakfast, the menu includes classic Scottish breakfast, cakes or scones. After the meal, it is also worth taking a walk through the garden with its raised beds, herbaceous borders and flowers blooming in all colors.

On the website you can find the current opening hours.

Bealach Na Ba Pass - the highest Road Rise in Britain

For the winding drive over the Bealach Na Ba Pass you need good nerves. In hairpin bends, the Single Track Road winds its way up to 626 meters and down again just as steeply. It is the biggest road climb in all of Britain. The views are terrific! Practically there is also a big parking lot at the top of the pass. When clouds cover the view, wait a little bit - maybe it will clear up in 5 minutes.

Large vehicles as well as beginner drivers can choose a different route.

Tip: Do you have a rental car with automatic transmission? Then find out how to manually shift to a lower gear before you start you drive the pass. You will definitely need the engine brake .

More Ideas

• Walk to Sandwood Bay, the most beautiful beach in Scotland
• Trip to the wildlife reserve Handa Island
• Kayak tour to the Summer Isles near Ullapool
• Wildlife-Watching in Gairloch or Ullapool
• Hiking in Assynt, for example the Suilven

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Inland - Applecross Peninsula to Inverness

Jumping Salmon at the Rogie Falls

Salmon that migrate up rivers and jump up waterfalls I only knew from television. Mostly rivers in Alaska are shown. But also in Scotland you can watch this spectacle in August and September. Ok, they are only single fish, but still. A fish ladder next to the main arm makes it a bit easier for the salmon. A short way leads you from the parking lot directly to the suspension bridge over the waterfall. The waterfall alone is worth a stopover.

Before getting started - Planning the Road Trip

Planning of the North Coast 500 Trip in Scotland

Along the Northwest Coast 500 there is a lot to discover, there is something for everyone: prehistoric ruins, castles, museums, beaches and hiking trails. There are also opportunities for wildlife tours by boat, multi-day kayak trips or a detour to the Isle of Skye, the Orkneys or even Shetland. Pick out your raisins and leave everything else out - otherwise it will quickly become too much.

How much time should one plan for the NC500?

We drove the route in 8 days. In the beginning the stages were longer, then they became shorter and shorter because there was simply more to see on the west coast and the roads only allowed slower progress.

Don't underestimate the driving times when planning your trip - you definitely need longer than the navigation system tells you. On the one hand, because you often have photo stops. And on the other hand, because the twisty single track roads or the camper van in front of you will quickly reduce the speed to 30 miles per hour.

Refuelling

Along the route of the North Coast 500 there are often small gas stations even in the small towns. Most of the time there is no cash point and you pay with your credit card directly at the automat. An overview of the location of the petrol stations in Scotland can be found here.

How do you want to overnight?

With a camper or car and tent you are flexible and you can stay where you want. Well, almost. You can read more about camping in Scotland by clicking here. If you want to stay in accommodation, it is better to book in advanceduring the season. Especially in the northwest between Thurso and Ullapool it can get difficult.

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Driving in Scotland - Left-hand Traffic

Driving on the wrong side of the road sounds daunting at first. But I thought to myself, if my partner and I take turns driving and both are paying attention, it will work out fine. The surprise came before things really got going. The rental car provider did not accept my partner's driver's license (in the USA, driver's licenses have to be renewed every 5 years. Because of Covid-19 it all took longer. The temporary paper driver's license was not sufficient). So I suddenly became the Car Queen and had exclusive control over the steering wheel for 4 weeks - and could stop as often and where I wanted for a photo. Yeah!!!

What is it like to drive on the wrong side of the road? Actually not that difficult at all, I got used to it quickly. There are often other cars in front of you - then you just follow them. That also works in round-about traffic. You just have to be a bit careful that you look to the right. At the beginning I was very worried that I would swerve to the wrong side on one of the single track roads and collide head-on with another car. Fortunately that didn't happen, not even in the least. With oncoming traffic one gets much slower on the narrow single track roads anyway and observes the behaviour of the other car very closely.

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Dos and Don'ts on the Single Track Roads

Use the passing points. They are typical for single track roads. Mostly they are signposted and can be seen from far away. Let oncoming traffic and vehicles behind you pass. I have seen some scary overtaking maneuvers on the track, because some drivers behave like a... and have blocked the roads permanently.

Stop only at clearly visible places. Stop briefly for a photo? Absolutely. But not everywhere. Make sure that you are seen on the winding, hilly road and that other vehicles are not in danger when passing by. Also, keep the passing points clear.

Better not go too fast. Adjust your speed so that you can drive safely. Especially on the single track roads and before the "Blind Summits". The speed limit is usually 60 miles / hour. However, you will often drive slower.

Watch out for motorcyclists. Especially on weekends there are many motorcyclists on the road. Mostly in larger groups. Often they ride the winding roads a little faster and like to overtake, sometimes quite wildly. Also watch out for latecomers.

Cyclists - the heroes of the NC500. Uphill, in wind and rain - hats off to the real heroes of the North Coast 500. Leave enough space when passing by and use the passing places.

Sheep, cows and other animals. They are omnipresent and can be around every corner.

Tip: Even if it's a bit more expensive, I recommend a rental car with automatic transmission.On the twisty single track roads with numerous dodges the automatic transmission was simply priceless. Especially since I can hardly imagine how to operate the shift lever with my left hand.

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Little Pests: Scotland Midges and Ticks

When it comes to Scotland, everyone talks about midges. Admittedly, the morning midge attacks outside our tent were already cruel. But the ticks in the Scottish Highlands scared me even more! Because they are much bigger than the ticks I knew from Germany before. In addition, signs along some hiking trails warn against the transmission of boleriosis.

In my separate article you can read more about Midges - When? Where? In which weather? What helps?

Do not forget:

• Midge Repellent, for example Smidge
• Mosquito net for the head
• Tick forceps

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Book Recommendations for Scotland

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I recommend the following travel guides, which have proven themselves on my trip:

Lonely Planet Scotland*

Schottland. Wanderungen an den Küsten und in den Highlands. 50 Touren. Mit GPS-Tracks* (only German)

Rough Guide to the
North Coast 500*

Have you ever driven the North Coast 500 in Scotland yourself? What were the highlights and the most beautiful places for you? Or do you still have questions about my article? If so, please write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Recommendations for further Reading

Not only Scotland's roads are famous for great road trips. Iceland and the Baltic States also offer great routes. Maybe you feel like a road trip in Iceland's highlands or a road trip around half the Baltic Sea?

Der Beitrag North Coast 500 – der beste Roadtrip in Schottland erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

This article contains unsolicited and unpaid advertising and affiliate links*.

What you will find in my Article:

Roadtrip Russia & Baltic States - Route, Highlights and Pitches
Our Motorhome "Arwak" - the Iveco 40/10 WM
By Ferry from Travemünde to Helsinki
21 Highlights for your Road Trip in Russia & Baltic States
Allgemeine Tipps für euren Roadtrip

Roadtrip Russia & Baltic States - Route, Highlights and Pitches

Why a road trip on the Baltic Sea? Well, the Baltic Sea begins almost at the gates of Berlin. The journey is short. After about 4 hours by car, we finally get on the ferry and the journey begins. A journey through six countries with varied landscapes, diverse culture, interesting history and friendly people.

We have covered a distance of about 4,500 kilometres in 30 days. So about 160 kilometres a day. Sometimes more sometimes less. In some places we also stayed 2 or 3 days. In the map I marked our places for the night and our route. You can also see many little hearts on the map - these are the highlights of our road trip in Russia & Baltic States, which I describe in the following.

Our Motorhome "Arwak" - the Iveco 40/10 WM

It never gets boring on a road trip. So also this time: Already on the second day we noticed a hole in the exhaust. First we tried to repair it with an exhaust kit. But it got bigger and bigger. One day later we improvised in the Russian way: From the roadside we collected empty beverage cans. We cut off the bottom and lid so that we had flat metal sheets. Then we wrapped six pieces of it around the meanwhile about 5 cm long crack in our exhaust pipe. Finally we fixed the whole thing with two hose clamps. The remainders of the exhaust putty also glued everything from below. We also made another suspension for the front part of the exhaust. Done!

In the meantime "Arwak" has a new exhaust. Do you want to know more about our Iveco 40/10 WM? Then look here, he has his own page.

If you don't have your own camper, you can find the right van for your road trip at Paul Camper*.

By Ferry from Travemünde to Helsinki

A road trip around the whole Baltic Sea is long. With a detour to the White Sea about 6,000 kilometres. With an average of 160 kilometres a day, you would need about 5.5 weeks. But for most of us the possible summer holiday is shorter. We had four weeks. A trip around the Baltic Sea including a detour to Russia was therefore out of the question for us. Good that there is a shortcut.

Crossing with Finnlines from Travemünde to Helsinki:
Costs: for e.g. two persons with camper in high season without cabin about 557 Euro. With double cabin about 719 Euro.
Times: All year round; departure depending upon weekday between 2:00 and 3:30 o'clock, arrival after 29 hours at 9:00 or 9:30 o'clock.
Click here to go to the Finnlines website with the current timetables and costs.

Check-in opens at 21:00 and closes two hours before departure. However, the boarding does not start until about 23:30. Vehicles higher than 2.10 metres will be parked on another deck and therefore loaded later. For passengers with higher vehicles it is therefore recommended to arrive at the check-in only around 23:00 hrs. Here you can also find more information about a ferry trip by motorhome at Finnlines .

21 Highlights for your Road Trip in Russia & Baltic States

#1 Relaxed Start - Suomenlinna near Helsinki

After 29 hours of ferry travel we arrive in Helsinki in the morning. The whole day still lies ahead of us. We want to explore Helsinki. But at the same time we want to take it easy. Therefore we decide first of all for an excursion to the archipelago islands of Suomenlinna.

Suomenlinna is a fortress from the 18th centuryIt is located on several connected islands just off Helsinki. The complex comprises around 200 buildings on a total of 80 hectares and is also a prime example of military and fortress architecture. Suomenlinna was used for military purposes until 1973. Today, however, only one island is reserved for the military school. The rest can be visited.

There is an information centre, two museums, a gallery and several cafés, restaurants and souvenir shops. In the information centre at the ferry pier you can get a map with which you can move around the islands on your own. In this map, for example, a 1.5 kilometre long main route is recommended. The route includes all important sights. Information boards inform you about the sights and their history.

The UNESCO World Heritage Site Suomenlinna is one of the most popular destinations near Helsinki. The islands can be reached within 15 minutes by public ferry. In summer, the ferry departs every 15 to 20 minutes directly from Kauppatori square. You can also find more information on the website of Suomenlinna.

#2 Porvoo - charming Fishing Village with colourful wooden Houses

The small town of Porvoo is famous for its rust-red wooden houses on the banks of the river Porvoonjoki. They date back to the 18th century and were formerly used as salt storages. Porvoo's beautiful old town with its narrow streets, charming cafés and boutiques invites you to stroll and linger. The colourful Scandinavian wooden houses are lovingly decorated and everything looks a bit like an open air museum. Porvoo is the second oldest town in Finland after Turku and was also an important trading town as early as the 13th century. Most of the buildings in the old town are not quite as old, because a fire in 1760 burned down most of them.  

High above the old town is the cathedral from the 15th century. It is the episcopal church of the Lutheran Protestant diocese of Borgå and also the landmark of Porvoo. In 2006, however, the cathedral was severely damaged by fire. While the wooden roof burned down almost completely, the interior of the cathedral has been largely preserved.

Porvoo is only 50 kilometers from Helsinki. The pretty little town is therefore one of the most popular destinations for day trips from the capital. We also came from Helsinki and stayed at the nearby camping site "Sun Camping". Afterwards we went on to the lake district in the direction of Savonlinna.

#3 Lake District in Finland - lots of Water and even more Mosquitoes

There are about 470 kilometres between Helsinki and the border crossing to Russia at Niirala. Most of the route runs through the famous Finnish Lake District - the largest lake district in Europe. A labyrinth of lakes, rivers, islands, moors and dense forests extends over more than 100,000 km². We particularly enjoyed two of our stopovers on our way across the Finnish Lake District: The village of Savonlinna with the medieval castle Olavinlinna and the oversized wooden church of Kerimäki.

Olavinlinna was completed in 1475 and is considered the best preserved medieval castle in Northern Europe. It is situated in the middle of the Saimaa lake system on a small island and can therefore only be reached by a pontoon bridge. However, to allow larger ships to pass, the Poton Bridge can be folded to the side.

The church of Kerimäki is the largest wooden church in the world. The neoclassical domed church was completed in 1847 after three years of construction. It can hold up to 5,000 people, with seating for 3,400 of them. The pews have an unimaginable total length of over 1.6 kilometres. The parish last had 5,526 inhabitants - so the church seems a little oversized.

At a resting place at a little frequented country road we found a nice place for the night. But when we came to rest after a long day, the mosquitoes became lively. So in the evening we could only go outside with long clothes and armed with insect spray.

But even if the mosquitoes were bothering us - we would have liked to spend more time here. And at that time we didn't know that there were many more mosquitoes on the Solovetskie Islands in Russia - one of our next stops.

#4 Petrozavodsk - Welcome to Russia!

Petrozavodsk is for many people only the starting point for trips to the open-air museum Kischi. But for us the city itself was a highlight on our road trip Russia & Baltic States. We especially liked the shore promenade at Lake Onega - the second largest freshwater lake in Europe. The promenade is surrounded by an attractive park area and therefore perfect for a walk. You can see various sculptures, for example the Silver Fishermen casting a net. And if you like it a bit more sporty: the park is equipped with a public fitness area - here people train hard.

Petrozavodsk means translated as "Peter Works". It refers to the iron and cannon factory which Peter the Great had built here in 1703 and thus founded Petrozavodsk. However, the plant was replaced 70 years later by the Alexandrovsky Steelworks. A statue of Peter the Great points with his finger to the place where Petrozavodsk was founded. The monument was unveiled in 1873 to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the Alexandrovsky Steelworks. Since 1978, however, the monument has stood on the shore of Lake Onega near the pier.

Guided tours as well as tours on your own initiative can be found here. Petrozavodsk also has beautiful examples of neoclassical architecture, e.g. the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral or the Musical Theatre of Karelia. You can also see a large statue of Lenin from 1933 in Central Lenin Square.

Pitch for the Night

We stayed at Nord Camping for three nights. The small cosy camping site is only a five minute walk from the boat landing stage and is equipped with everything you need.

Ideas for your next Road Trip

Are you looking for ideas and inspiration for your next road trip or for your camping stove? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books at Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you and you do me a huge favor.

#5 With the "Raketa" to the Open Air Museum Kischi with Karelian Wood Architecture

The open-air museum Kischi is the most famous of its kind in Russia. Already since 1951, historical wooden buildings from all over Karelia have been brought here: houses, chapels and even windmills. In 1966 Kischi became an official open-air museum, and since 1990 it has even been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It displays 80 unique examples of Karelian wooden architecture, such as churches from the 17th and 18th centuries.

The most beautiful and also most famous building in Kischi is the Church of the Transfiguration of Christ, completed in 1714. Its roof is decorated with 22 onion-shaped domes. A few years later the heated winter church was built next to it. However, it is smaller than the summer church and has only 8 domes. The churches also have a separate bell tower.

The excursion to the open-air museum Kischi was one of the most impressive highlights on our road trip Russia & Baltic States. Because just the trip with the hydrofoil "Raketa" was a lot of fun. The Russian "Raketa" was produced in the Soviet Union from 1956. Altogether more than 400 boats of this type were built at that time. The Raketa is 27 meters long and 5 meters wide. It offers space for 60 to 65 people and reaches a speed of up to 58 km/h. When sailing, it lifts itself out of the water and glides on its wings. The draft then changes from 1.8 metres to about 1.1 metres. (Source: Wikipedia)

Directions to get there: From Petrozavodsk, hydrofoils leave from May to October up to five times a day. It takes about 75 minutes to reach Kishi. You can buy tickets directly at the boat landing stage. In winter, hovercraft crossings are offered.

#6 Solowezki Islands - moving History and Beluga Whales

In the White Sea, about 160 km south of the Arctic Circle, lies a group of islands with a moving history. Why the Solowezki Islands are worth a visit and what is worth seeing on the islands, you can read in my separate article Solowezki Islands - Sightseeing and Travel Tips. This unusual destination welcomes you with a great subarctic nature and Russian hospitality. And with a little luck you might even be able to watch Beluga whales.

The calm shallow water in front of the Solowezki Islands is also the nursery of the Beluga Whales. Because in summer they come here to give birth and raise their young. How you can get to the Beluga Cape lookout point on your own and what you have to consider when doing so, you can read in my separate article about the Beluga Whales of the Solowezki Islands. The tour to the Beluga Whales was my personal highlight on our road trip in Russia & Baltic States. Because we became witnesses of a whale birth. And this on my own birthday!

Pitch for the Night

The Prichal Tourist Centre is located directly at the ferry pier. There are bungalows, a restaurant and a guarded parking lot, which can also be used as a camping site. We have also reserved our ferry tickets to the Solowezki Islands in advance by email via the tourist centre.

#7 St. Petersburg - Our Highlights for 3 Days

After we spent the last ten days completely relaxed in extensive Karelia, action was now on the agenda. The journey to St. Petersburg on the E105 alone was exciting. Because the traffic was getting denser. And the Russian driving style became a challenge. As our camper is not the fastest - its travel speed is about 80 km/h - we were constantly overtaken. The overtaker did not always pay attention to the oncoming traffic. For us it continued on the side-strip - fortunately it was asphalted. So a two-lane country road became a three-lane one. We were very happy when we finally arrived at our campsite in St. Petersburg.

After a short break we went on. Because during our 3-day stay in St. Petersburg we wanted to see as much as possible. Here are our favourites:

Hermitage - the Classic in St. Petersburg

For a visit to the world-famous Hermitage you should plan at least half a day. And even then you must limit yourself to the most interesting rooms. However, the Hermitage provides a great tool for planning your visit: the Trip Planner. With it you can plan your own personal tour in advance. There are also guided tours and audio guides in several languages. To avoid the long queues at the ticket offices, you should buy online tickets in advance. And by the way: photography is allowed in the permanent exhibition of the museum, but only without flash and tripod.

Kazan Cathedral

The queuing was worth it! Because when we entered the Kazan Cathedral, a service was just being held in one wing. The faithful stood in front of the altar, reciting verses with the priest and crossing themselves again and again. Meanwhile, the interior of the cathedral was filled with an impressive, almost mystical atmosphere.

But even without a ceremony, the Kazan Cathedral is a highlight in St. Petersburg that you should definitely visit. The Russian-orthodox sacral building was built from 1801 to 1811 after the model of the Roman St. Peter's Cathedral and is the second biggest church of the city. It is also one of the most imposing buildings of St. Petersburg and is located directly at the Nevsky Prospect. The entrance is free of charge.

Arctic and Antarctic Museum St. Petersburg

The Arctic and Antarctic Museum is my favourite museum in St. Petersburg. The exhibition is impressively extensive and also in a very unusual location: the former Nikolauskirche. The museum was one of my highlights during our whole road trip Russia & Baltic States. Therefore I wrote a separate article about the Arctic and Antarctic Museum in St. Petersburg .

Church of the Savior on Blood

The colourful cathedral on the Griboyedov Canal has several names. Officially, however, it is called the Cathedral of the Resurrection of Christi. But more often it is called Church of the Savior on Blood. Because it was built over the blood stain by Tsar Alexander II, who was the victim of a deadly assassination attempt here in 1881 on his way to the Winter Palace.

With its Old Russian architectural style, it is reminiscent of the St. Basil's Cathedral on the Red Square in Moscow. It provocatively stands out from the cityscape of St. Petersburg - a city that was then absorbed by Western classicism. During the Soviet era, the church served as a warehouse for potatoes or theatre backdrops (depending on the source of information).

The Church of the Savior on Blood is already an eye-catcher from the outside. But from the inside it almost makes you marvel even more. Because on an area of 7000 m² the Blutskirche is decorated with the most beautiful mosaics. In the cathedral there is also a decorated shrine with the cobblestones on which Alexander II died.

Peter and Paul Fortress

The Peter and Paul Fortress is located on a small island in the Neva and is only accessible via two bridges. On the island there are, beside the worth seeing Peter-Paul-Cathedral, many other museums, for example the Museum of Space History or the Museum of Instruments of Torture.

The Peter-Paul-Cathedral from 1733 is the oldest cathedral of the city and also the highest building in the city centre. The long golden tower top is also one of the landmarks of St. Petersburg. From the viewing platform you have a great view over the fortress. Inside, the cathedral is adorned with coloured marble columns, crystal chandeliers and gilded icons. It also houses the shrines of the Romanov tsars.

Cathedral of Saint Isaac

St. Isaac's Cathedral is the most magnificent church in St. Petersburg. It was completed in 1858 after 40 years of construction and is one of the largest sacred domed buildings in the world. With its huge golden dome, the cathedral is also the second tallest building in the city centre. From up here you have a fantastic view over the city. The view is especially beautiful in the evening hours, when the golden domes of the city shine even more golden.

Pitch for the Night

We have stayed in the camping area of the motel «Елизар» (Elizar). This is a fully equipped, fenced-in area next to the hotel. There is even a laundry service. The nearest subway "Elizarovskaya" is only a three minute walk away. Tip: Many more parking lots for a road trip in Russia can also be found at the Baikalsprinter.

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#8 Amber Room in the Catherine Palace

The legendary Amber Room is still missing today. Many clues as to the whereabouts of the "Eighth Wonder of the World" have led nowhere. But since 2003, the Amber Room has been reconstructed in the Catherine Palace true to the original. It is admirable - a real masterpiece and also one of the highlights on our road trip Russia & Baltic States.

The Amber Room was made at the beginning of the 18th century for the Charlottenburg Palace in Berlin. It was a room with amber wall panelling and furniture. Later on it was installed in the Berlin City Palace. However, shortly afterwards, in 1716, the Prussian King Friedrich Wilhem I gave the Amber Room to the Russian Tsar Peter the Great. After it had been built in the Winter Palace in St. Petersburg, it was finally moved to the Catherine Palace in Tsarskoe Selo in 1755. During the Second World War it was brought to the Königsberg Palace by the Germans as spoils of war. However, when the bombing raids on Königsberg began in 1944, the Amber Room was removed and stored. Since 1945 it has been missing.

"Tsarskoe Selo" in English "Tsar village" is located about 25 km south of St. Petersburg. The Catherine Palace from 1752 with its Amber Room is the main attraction here. But also the rest of the palace, the park with further buildings, ponds, flower beds and small bridges is worth seeing. But be prepared for long queues.

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#9 Medieval Flair & Sea Museum in Tallinn

Medieval Tallinn

Tallinn is considered the best preserved medieval city in Northern Europe. Narrow cobblestone streets are lined with historic merchant houses, barns and warehouses. In between, towers of Gothic churches tower and offer spectacular views. The medieval flair of the old town is enchanting and invites you to go on discovery tours. And you can do these tours comfortably on foot, because many sights are very close together. How about a medieval menu in an authentic atmosphere afterwards? Around the Rathausplatz you are spoilt for choice. But we especially liked the Old Hanseatic Restaurant Packhaus .

The Maritime Museum in the former Seaplane Port

There are many interesting museums in Tallinn. But there is one you should not miss: The Estonian Maritime Museum. The Sea Museum is worth seeing just because of its location in the former sea airport.

Since 1981, the headquarters of the Tallinn Sea Museum have been located in the Dicken Margarethe, a cannon tower of the old city fortifications. Here around 700 exhibits on the history of shipping, maritime trade, fishing and other topics are on display. You can also view some models of ships. However, the large ships are located in a branch of the museum: the historic seaplane hangar in Lennusadam.

Construction of the seaplane hangar began in 1912 under the command of Tsar Nicholas II. The hangar is unique because of its architecture: it was the first time that such large reinforced concrete domes were built without additional supporting columns. During the Soviet era, the hangar was used by the Russian military. After Estonia's independence, the building was first converted into a warehouse. In 2010 the conversion to a museum was finally started. About two years later, in May 2012, the hangar was opened for visitors.

On an exhibition area of 6.500 m² you can see about 200 ships. Among them are the submarine "Lembit" from the 1930s, the icebreaker "Suur Tõll" and the wreck of the ship "Maasilinn", one of the oldest wrecks in Estonia. Sailing boats, historical ships and a wide range of marine equipment are also on display.

Address:
Fat Margaret: Pikk 70
Seaplane hangar: Vesilennuki 6
Opening hours:
May-September: Mon-Sun from 10am - 7pm;
October-April: Tues-Sun from 10am - 6pm
Admission fee:
Fat Margarethe and hangar: adults 20 euros; children 10 euros.
Hangar only: adults 15 Euro; children 8 Euro

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#10 Bogs of Estonia

A hike through a raised bog is surprisingly varied. At first sight the wide landscape seems empty. But if you take a closer look, you will discover a colourful diversity of species. And most of the time already right next to the wooden plank path. Why the Soomaa moor was one of the highlights of our Baltic road trip, you can read in my separate article Off to the Bog! - Tips for your Visit to Soomaa Bog. I also give you tips for your visit to the Soomaa Bog and tell you why you should definitely take a mud bath here.

#11 Riga - Capital of Art Nouveau

The capital of Latvia is famous for its Art Nouveau buildings. And rightly so! Because there are many of them and many of them are really beautiful. There is always something new to discover at the richly decorated buildings. Mystical figures decorate the facades, others support the balconies. There are also numerous decorated columns, undulating lines of plants, flowers, masks and other abstract elements.

Many art nouveau buildings are located in the Albertastraße. The beautifully decorated buildings were built between 1901 and 1908. 12 Albertastraße is also home to the Riga Art Nouveau Museum visit. A magnificent spiral staircase will take you up to the museum rooms with authentic furnishings dating back to 1903. If you are interested in architecture, then an Art Nouveau city tour with a guide** may be just the thing for you.

What else is there to see in Riga? The entire historical centre of Riga is listed as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site and is well worth a visit. In the very well-preserved Old Town of Riga, you will find not only Art Nouveau buildings but also medieval buildings and beautiful examples of 19th century wooden architecture.

Pitch for the Night

We stayed for two nights at the Riga City campground. From here you can walk about 35 minutes to the historical city centre. The place was big, full, but well organized.

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#12 Jūrmala - Luxury and Lost Places

Jūrmala is a seaside resort on the Gulf of Riga and the only official spa resort in the country. It is only about 40 kilometres from the city centre of Riga to one of the most beautiful sandy beaches in the Baltic States. This fine sandy beach, the dunes and cozy pine forests have attracted many guests already at the beginning of the 20th century. During this time, wealthy people from Riga and Moscow built their summer houses here - colourful Art Nouveau villas made of wood with turrets and elaborate facades. You can get an overview of the most beautiful Art Nouveau buildings here. There are said to be a total of 4,000 houses. Many of them are also listed as historical monuments. However, some of them are run-down and abandoned. But also these houses are witnesses of the pomp and luxury that filled Jūrmala at that time. Later, during the Soviet era, up to 300,000 visitors came to Jūrmala every year and large, ostentatious sanatoriums were built.

But the rapid development of tourism in Jurmala also had its downsides: The water quality became worse and worse. In the 80s, swimming in front of Jūrmala was finally no longer possible. Fortunately, however, this has changed again. Since 2001, the "Blue Flag" - the quality mark for water quality - has been flying on the beach at Jūrmala. But what has not changed until today: Strolling, going out and enjoying are still the top priorities in Jūrmala.

The former bathhouse of Emilija Racene was built directly on the beach at the beginning of the 20th century. Throughout the year, warm sea water, carbon dioxide, oxygen and pine extract baths were offered here daily. During the Soviet era, the building housed the best equipped spa clinics in Jurmala.

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#13 Blue Cows in the Engures Ezers Nature Reserve

It is said that blue cows live in the Engures Ezers nature reserve. At first we thought this was an error in translation. But then we found more clues about these mysterious animals in other places. Legends tell that the first seven blue cows came out of the sea at full moon. So let's go!

On the west coast of the Riga Bay is the nature reserve Engures Ezers. This consists mainly of a shallow lagoon lake, separated from the sea by a dune up to 2.5 kilometres wide. The lake is also densely overgrown with reeds. Wooden plank paths lead you over wet meadows to the shore. The meadows are an important nesting and resting place for waders and water birds during migration. From a birdwatching tower you have a wide view over the landscape. And if you are lucky, you might see a rare bird, such as a corncrake, an eagle owl or a sea eagle. The fact that this tower is well visited is also known by the free running Polski and Konik horses. They are supposed to keep the vegetation short and thus prevent scrub encroachment. But they prefer to eat apples and carrots brought by the visitors rather than grass.

Tip: The orchid trail
The orchid trail leads you over 3.5 kilometres through bog and forest to the lakeside. It starts near the Engure Centre for Ornithological Research. The best time for a hike is from the end of June to mid July.

And the blue cows? I could not see a blue shimmer in their fur, but the "Latvian Blue" with its blue-grey fur does exist. But today there are only about 1240 animals left. An association takes care of the preservation of this endangered species.

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#14 Cape Kolka - National Park & Relicts of the Soviet Era

Cape Kolka is the northernmost point of the Kurland Peninsula and separates the Gulf of Riga from the Baltic Sea. During the Soviet era, Cape Kolka was a restricted military area. Because from here the Swedish coast is particularly close and the escape to the west was therefore particularly obvious. Watchtowers were built to prevent this. In the fishing village of Mazirbe fishing was also forbidden and boats were dragged into the forest. The boat graveyard and several watchtowers can still be seen today. You can read more about these relics from the Soviet era here.

After the withdrawal of the Soviets, the area was finally designated as the National Park Slītere in 2000. The national park comprises 163.6 km² of land and 101.3 km² of water. The landscape is varied, but wooded dunes and swampy areas dominate. The different habitats lead to a high diversity of species. Among them are rare species such as the european pond turtle, sea eagle, black stork, wolf and lynx. In addition, 125 bird species breed in the national park. The Cape is also an important resting place during bird migration with up to 50,000 migrating birds per day.

Tip: At Cape Kolka you can watch the sunrise as well as the sunset over the sea. 

#15 Bunkeranlage “The Northern Forts” bei Liepāja in Lettland

Since 1890 the port in Liepāja was an important naval location and base of the Russian Baltic Sea fleet. To protect the port from enemy attacks, elaborate fortifications were built between 1893 and 1906 - the so-called Northern Forts. Since then, the massive concrete bunkers stretched for several kilometres along the coast.

But soon the line of defense was recognized as a misplanning. In November 1908 Tsar Nicholas II finally decided to give up the sea fortress at Liepāja. The cannons were dismantled and partly melted down. However, attempts to blow up and remove the bunkers failed. Instead, a series of bunker ruins were created - bizarre shapes made of concrete, which the sea slowly took away. Absolutely worth seeing and for me as a fan of lost places and bunkers also a highlight of our road trip in the Baltic States.

Where? The bunkers extend several kilometres along the coast. You can reach them for example via Krasta iela, Koknese iela or Jatnieku iela. But the most impressive part of the fortress with the best photo motives you will find at the Krasta iela.

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#16 Curonian Spit - Shifting Dunes & Cormorants

Sand as far as the eye can see. And even across borders. Because the 98 kilometre long Curonian Spit is partly in Lithuania (52 km) and partly in Russia (46 km). The cross-border national park was designated in 1991. Since 2000 it has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It includes shifting sand dunes, pine forests, the lagoon and the Baltic Sea coast.

The spit was created by erosion-induced sand movement and subsequent deposition in the shallow coastal waters. However, the sand was exposed during clearings in the 16th century. As a result, huge shifting sand dunes were created, which in the course of time buried 14 villages beneath them. Today, however, attempts are made to stabilise the sand dunes by planting. But the sand still moves about one meter towards the Baltic Sea every year.

The Curonian Spit with its shifting sand dunes was one of the highlights of our road trip in the Baltic States. What did we like best? The big cormorant & heron colony near Juodkrante, the grey dune as well as the Parnidis dune. And what we did not like at all? Well, the Curonian Spit is a popular tourist destination. It was just extremely crowded. Probably also because we were there at the peak travel time. Tip: On the Russian side it is much less crowded.

The Grey Dunes

The Grey Dunes are located in the Nagliai Nature Reserve. They are named after the greyish vegetation that covers the dunes in the areas sheltered from the wind. The vegetation holds the sand and slows down the drifts. The grey dunes are about 8 kilometres long and 2 kilometres wide. Four former villages are also buried beneath them.

However, the parking situation is difficult, especially with larger campers. So it is best to arrive early. Then also the photo light is much nicer than at noon. There is also a small entrance fee to pay. A nice path, which partly runs on wooden planks, leads you up to the highest point of the dune.

Cormorant & Heron Colony near Juodkrante

The trunks and branches of the pines are white from the guano of the birds. The treetops are full of black cormorants. There are thousands of animals that have built their nests here. Among the cormorants, there are also grey herons. These large birds nest on trees, too. Amazing, isn't it? The colony near Juodkrante is the largest cormorant & heron colony in the country and counts about 6500 animals. A spacious parking lot invites you for a stopover. Already from here you can see, hear and smell the colony. The best view is from the observation deck at the edge of the parking lot.

Parnidis Dune near Nida

The Parnidis dune is the landmark of the Curonian Spit. It rises south of Nida to a height of 52 metres and is one of the largest shifting sand dunes in Europe. But it is getting smaller. The reason for this is erosion - natural by wind and rain, but also man-made. Because climbing the slopes and walking on the dune off the wooden plank paths are damaging it. From the highest point of the dune you have a great view over the coastal strip and the forests to the Baltic Sea. When we were on the Parnis dune, it rained unfortunately, so there are only few photos. The best way to get to the dune from Nida is to follow the nature trail "Parnis Dune Trail", which is about 1.8 km long.

Getting there from Kleipeda: From the ferry pier in Kleipeda ferries leave every 30 minutes to the Curonian Spit all year round. You can check the current timetable and prices here . Depending on the season there is an entrance fee of 5 or 10 Euro for the park.

Pitch for the Night

Free camping is not allowed within the Curonian Spit National Park. Therefore we spent one night on the parking lot at the ferry port Smiltynė in the northern part of the island and two nights on the camping site Nidos Kempinggas in Nida.

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#17 Memel Delta - Boat Trip to the largest Bird Catching Nets in the World

In the small port of Nida, colourful signs attract guests. They offer boat trips, for example a half-day excursion to the Memel delta. The highlight of the excursion is a visit to the ornithological station at the tip of the Ventés Ragas (Windenburger Eck), which is about 5.5 kilometres long.

The ornithological station is one of the oldest of its kind in the world. Bird migration has been observed here since 1929. And there is a lot to see here. One of the most important bird migration routes of the entire Baltic Sea region runs along the Curonian Spit. During bird migration, up to one million birds fly over the Ventés Ragas headland every day. Many stop here for a rest and some of the birds get caught in one of the largest bird-catching nets in the world. The birds are then measured, weighed, ringed and finally released.

Since 1930 birds have been caught and banded or ringed here. Since 1978 / 89 the two largest bird nets in the world have been standing here. They are 25 meters high and catch 50.000 to 80.000 birds every year. Smaller nets are also used to catch insects such as butterflies and dragonflies.

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#18 Relicts from the Soviet Era

Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania - three countries and three different stories. But the three Baltic countries have one thing in common. They once belonged to the Soviet Union. Even today you can still find traces of that time in many places. I will show you some of them in my separate article Relicts from the Soviet era - tips for your tour in the Baltic States. The relicts from the Soviet era were for me one of the highlights of our road trip in the Baltic States.

#19 Kurshskaya Kosa National Park

Shortly after the border you will come to the checkpoint for the Kurshskaya Kosa National Park. Here you have to pay a small entrance fee (40 roubles / person; 300 roubles / car), either in cash or by credit card. The park is much less crowded here than on the Lithuanian side. The paths to the dunes are wilder and not so strictly fenced. There are several picnic areas, from which you can reach the water or the dunes after a short walk. About 8 kilometres behind the border, on the 40 metre high dune range, you will find the viewpoint Ephas Höhe . From here you have a great view of the 62 meter high Orekhovoy Dune - Europe's highest shifting sand dune.

About 17 kilometres after the border you will reach the "Dancing Forest". The pines of the Dancing Forest have grown twisted like a screw and give a bizarre picture. A laid out path leads you to the most beautiful specimens. Why the pines are the way they are, however, nobody knows exactly. But one speculates that underground water veins could be the cause.

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#20 "Little Russia" - Russian Exclave Kaliningrad

The coast of the Kaliningrad region was already known for its large amber deposits in Roman times. In the 13th century Teutonic knights finally founded the city of Königsberg. The city in East Prussia was prosperous, cosmopolitan and popular. It is also said to have been one of the most beautiful cities in Germany. After the First World War, however, it was separated from the rest of Germany. And after the Second World War the city lay in ruins. In 1946 Königsberg was finally renamed Kaliningrad in honour of the former Soviet head of state Kalinin and rebuilt in Soviet style.

Since the Baltic States regained their independence in 1991, the Kaliningrad region has been an exclave of Russia. "Little Russia" is separated from the rest of Russia by Poland and Lithuania. We entered Kaliningrad from Lithuania via the Curonian Spit. The control at the border crossing was quick and smooth.

Walk through Kaliningrad - Prussian Architecture and Soviet Chic

With its mix of old Prussian buildings, prefabricated concrete slabs, parks and Soviet chic, I immediately took the city to my heart. Our highlights in Kaliningrad were:

Dom Sowjet: The old city castle was destroyed in the Second World War. On its remains the Dom Sowjet was built in the 60s. But it was never completed. The reason for this were static problems caused by the building ground. Because a tunnel was discovered in the underground, which once connected the castle with the cathedral.

Königsberg Cathedral: Königsberg Cathedral: Not many of the original historical buildings of the old Königsberg have been remaining since the Second World War. However, some buildings have been restored, such as the Königsberg Cathedral dating from 1333. It is now listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. By the way: right behind the cathedral there is the grave of the philosopher Immanuel Kant.

Amber Museum in the Dohnaturm: I was quite amazed - the things you can't make out of amber. But the coolest thing I found was the amber world map. The amber museum shows more than 6000 exhibits, among them a 4.28 kilogram stone and numerous stones with enclosed insects. The tower is part of the old fortification of the city. The walls, gates, towers and bastions of red brook stone were built between the 17th and 19th centuries.

TipSince July 2019 it is possible to get a free electronic visa for a maximum stay of 8 days. You can find more information here.

Pitch for the Night

About 15 kilometres east of Kaliningrad lies the camping site Festival'nyy. But as our time was slowly running out, we wanted to stay closer to the centre. Therefore we took a room for two nights in the Ibis Hotel Kaliningrad Center near the cathedral. For our camper there was a gap left on the guarded hotel parking lot.

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#21 Gdansk - Walk through one of the most beautiful Cities in Poland

The port city of Gdansk is considered one of the most beautiful cities in Poland. Thanks to the restorers! Because they did a great job here after the Second World War. At that time the city was about 80% destroyed. The old town was then rebuilt under functional aspects. However, the so-called "Rechtstadt" was restored true to the original and richly detailed.

During a walk through the "Rechtstadt" you can see the most important highlights of Gdansk. This is where the so-called Royal Street runs - the boulevard formed by the Long Street and the Long Market. The typical colourful gabled houses of Gdansk line up here in a line.

You should also take a look at the Frauengasse. The houses here have terraced porches which used to serve as flood protection. From Frauengasse you can reach the famous crane gate through Frauentor. This city gate made of brick and wood is the most famous landmark of the city.

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General Tips for your Road Trip in Russia & Baltic States

The Russian Driving Style

Russian car or truck drivers like to overtake - no matter where. Even in curves or in front of mountain tops! Especially our slower Iveco ( travelling speed about 80 km/h) was often overtaken by the big trucks. If the road has an asphalted hard shoulder, this was also used. On a two-lane road, three vehicles often drive side by side. Really needs getting used to! But it was quite extreme on the E105 from the east towards St. Petersburg. Wherever it was possible, we of course let pass vehicles that for some reason were jammed behind us. The bus stops at the country roads are very good for this.

By the way: If an oncoming vehicle uses the headlight flasher, the driver usually warns of an upcoming police control. During our whole tour we were not even controlled.

Pitches for the Night

In Finland, Russia-Karelia and the Baltic States, so-called "wild camping" is allowed and quite normal. Beautiful pitches are available in the Baltic States like sand at the sea. In the book "Mit dem Wohnmobil ins Baltikum: Litauen, Lettland, Estland" (in german) you will also find many suggestions for suitable pitches. But here is the rule: First come, first camp. Most of these sites are no longer insider tips - if you arrive late in the evening, the sites may already be taken. Furthermore, these free pitches should not be overloaded with too many campers.

Do you need some camping equipment? You can find comfortable folding chairs, practical camping accessories or a picnic blanket at Bergzeit*. Take a look right now.

The "wild camping" will of course only be accepted as long as all campers follow certain rules. That means:

• Don't leave garbage or any other mess!
• Do not destroy nature with your tires! Respect nature reserves and national parks and stay here on the official parking lots.
• Keep some distance to settlements / houses.
• Be careful with open fire - only at suitable places, or better avoid it.
• Don't park on cultivated land

Toll Fee

Only in Poland we had to pay toll for the motorway, because only here we drove on the motorway. As our Iveco weighs over 3.5 tons, electronic toll payment was also obligatory for us. For this we had to install a transponder box from ViaToll with prepaid credit just across the border. Unfortunately, returning it to a petrol station before the border didn't work out. We still have the box. For all vehicles under 3.5 tons, however, manual toll payment is possible at the toll stations.

You can find out about the current toll regulations on the ADAC website. Another very helpful guide to tolls for motorhomes in Germany and Europe can be found in the mobility magazine of Bussgeldkatalog.org.

Traffic Rules

In addition to a foreign driving licence, the international driving licence and the vehicle registration document, you also need the green insurance card. Make sure that Russia is not crossed out in the insurance policy.

Furthermore applies:

• Obligation to wear seat belts
• Mobile phone ban
• Zero alcohol limit! Russia 0.03 per mille limit.
• The headlights must be switched on even during the day.

Two more tips for Russia:

• Green lights that flicker change to orange soon after. As soon as you see the traffic light flickering you have to stop, even if it is still green.
• Attention crosswalk! Here you have to stop - which is actually self-evident, but it surprised me in Russia! Also the Russian drivers have meticulously followed this rule. But open your eyes! Because sometimes the zebra crossings are hard to recognize, especially in the cities.

Refuelling

We have researched the diesel prices on the Internet beforehand. The fuel was of course cheapest in Russia, so we only filled up there. Our 300 liter tank gave us the necessary leeway. But the fuel was also one of the dirtiest we ever filled up - after the tour we had to change the diesel filter. Payment was possible by credit card. But the procedure of filling up the tank was sometimes a little bit different than we know it from Germany: you have to go to the cash desk with your credit card beforehand and say how many liters you want to fill up (be sure to take a note and pen with you, then you can write down the number). The credit card is checked and then the gas pump is released.

The network of petrol stations is dense, you can check the filling possibilities here .

Drinking Water

Tap water is safe to drink in Finland, Estonia and Poland. Even though we installed a water filter in the camper, we preferred to fill up our water tank only in one of these three countries.

Waste water

We have collected our washing waste water in a mobile canister. For our chemical toilet we also have a typical toilet tank. We could dispose both in the sanitary facilities of the campsites where we stayed every few days.

Shopping

Shopping was possible everywhere comfortably in the supermarket. Only on the Solowezky Islands it was a little challenge. Because here you had to order the items at the counter and the salesman brought them to you. If you want to buy vodka or other alcohol in Russia, keep in mind that it is not sold until 11 am.

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Travel Guide for your Road Trip in Russia & Baltic States

Do you want to know where the journey is going? Then I can recommend this travel guides* to you.

Have you ever (almost) travelled around the Baltic Sea yourself? What were the highlights of your road trip in Russia or the Baltic States? Do you have any questions about my article or suggestions? If so, please write me a comment!

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Recommendations for further Reading

Road Trip Albania - 15 Highlights & Tips and Route

With Land Rover Series II to Iceland - ABC for an "Offroad"-Trip

Der Beitrag Roadtrip Ostsee – 21 Highlights, Tipps und Route für Russland & Baltikum erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Non-solicited, unpaid advertising. This article contains affiliate links*, marked with an asterisk.

What you will find in my Article:

Albania - an underestimated Travel Destination
Road Trip Albania - Map with our Route and Pitches
Our Motorhome "Arwak" - the Iveco 40/10 WM
15 Highlights for your Road Trip in Albania
#1 With the 4x4-Camper to Theth
#2 Ferry Trip over the Koman Lake
#3 The Valbona Valley in the Albanian Alps
#4 The "Offroad" track at the Black Drin
#5 Lake Ohrid & Detour to Macedonia
#6 Tirana - Architecture and History
#7 Berat - the City of 1000 Windows
#8 Osum Canyon, Thermal Springs in Benje and Lengarica Canyon
#9 Gjirokastra with its imposing fortified Houses
#10 In the dry Riverbed from Tepelene to Himare
#11 Albania's Coast - a little bit of everything
#12 Saranda and Butrint
#13 Lost Places
#14 Bunker
#15 Monuments from the Communist Era
General Tips for your Roadtrip in Albania
Roadbooks - Travel Guide - Road Map (sorry, the books here are only in german language)
Recommendations for further Reading - more Roadtrips

Albania - an underestimated Travel Destination

A brief Summary of recent History

Albania was led for about 40 years by the communist dictator Enver Hoxha. Under Hoxha Albania became the first and only atheist state in the world. In addition, the dictator drove the country into complete isolation: in 1968 he resigned from the Warsaw Pact, breaking off relations with the Soviet Union. After the death of Mao (1976) and the beginning of the first reforms in China, he also broke off with China. Meanwhile, thousands of Albanians fell victim to " clean-up operations ", the population was controlled by the secret police and the country was on the verge of economic collapse.

Only after Enver Hoxha's death in 1985 was there new hope. At least until the so-called pyramid scandal, a money laundering business that drove the civilian population into financial ruin. Mass protests against the government and a civil war in 1997 followed, state institutions were devastated and anarchic conditions prevailed. The government was helpless. With the support of an international peacekeeping force and humanitarian aid troops, security was restored and reconstruction began.

Tourism in Albania

During the dictatorship tourism was strictly regulated. Not everyone was allowed into the country. Hippies were unwanted, women's skirts were not allowed to be too short and men's hair not too long. They probably wouldn't have let us in at that time.

The number of tourists reached a low point during the civil war with 119,000 visitors. It was 10 years later, in 2007, that over one million guests came to Albania for the first time. By 2017 the number had risen to 4.6 million. That is still not many. For comparison: the average number of visitors in countries in Southern Europe is 16 million (www.laenderdaten.info).

What makes Albania so interesting for tourists? A lot is still in the development stage here. Even the locals themselves are still exploring their own country. In the era of all-inclusive mass tourism, travellers can feel like discoverers here. Much of nature is freely accessible. There is a freedom of movement that is no longer available in many European countries. The best example is the freedom to camp, which makes every road trip in Albania a highlight. Another point is also the interesting history. Especially for all those who are interested in the communist past.

Tourism has now been recognised as a source of income. The tourist infrastructure has developed rapidly since then. In the Albanian Alps, great importance is attached to sustainable tourism. But on the coast, beach hotels are springing up like mushrooms and gravel roads are increasingly being asphalted. To the regret of the passionate offroad drivers. But in many areas of the interior tourism has not yet arrived. And that was exactly the reason why we travelled to Albania in summer 2018. We wanted to experience the original, rural Albania.

Road Trip Albania - Map with our Route and Pitches

Our entire route from Berlin to Saranda was 3,063 kilometres long. We drove for four weeks through eight countries: Germany, Austria, Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia-Herzegovina, Montenegro, Albania, Macedonia. In Saranda, in the very south of Albania, we handed over the camper to our friend Ingmar. Ingmar is co-owner of the Iveco and drove it back to Berlin on his own road trip. We ourselves flew back from Corfu to Berlin. Carsharing & Travelsharing - practical, isn't it?

On the map you can see all the highlights and night pitches during our road trip in Albania. I have entered the route we drove and also added a few photos. So you have a good idea what to expect.

Our Motorhome "Arwak" - the Iveco 40/10 WM

Our faithful vehicle and our loyal companion. The tour in Albania was now our second bigger road trip, where "Arwak" brought us back home healthy and filled with many great experiences. But with the name it all has to work out. Because "Arwak" is the name of one of the horses that pulls the wagon of the sun goddess Sol along the arch of heaven. What could be more suitable for a motorhome? Do you want to know more about Arwak, the Iveco 40/10 WM? Then look here, he has his own page.

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15 Highlights for your Road Trip in Albania

The small country Albania has a lot to offer in terms of landscape and architecture: Mountains with an alpine character, wild rivers, blue lakes, white beaches, canyons and some exciting gravel roads. About 200.000 bunkers are embedded in this beautiful landscape. In addition there are typical fortified houses, bizarre lost places and monuments from the communist era. In the following I have compiled 15 highlights of our road trip in Albania. Each one contains a short description, tips for your own explorations and of course many photos.

#1 With the 4x4-Camper to Theth

The trip to the mountain village of Theth was the first stage of our road trip. The village, which has just 4,000 inhabitants, is located in the Albanian Alps at an altitude of 742 meters and in 2018 could only be reached via a dirt road. In the meantime the road is said to have been asphalted.

The Theth National Park was established in 1976. It is a fine example of a rural, ancient cultural landscape that stretches across the valley. The valley is surrounded by high mountains, mountain forests and pastures. The landscape is similar to our Alps and the peaks reach up to 2,600 metres. In the village itself, the large grey stone houses stand far apart. In between there are always vegetable gardens and meadows. A rural idyll! If you have a little more time you have the possibility for extensive hikes on well marked paths in a breathtaking landscape.

In my separate article Roadtrip Albania - with the 4x4-Camper to Theth you will learn why this mountain village was one of our highlights.

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#2 Ferry Trip over the Koman Lake

A trip with the ferry over the Koman Lake is an absolute highlight and should not be missing on any Albania trip. The about 2,5 hours lasting trip through the Albanian Alps is one of the most beautiful river trips I have experienced so far. To the left and right are the rocky canyons of the Drin and remind me of the Norwegian fjords. The reservoir crosses the mountain range here over a length of 34 kilometres. The valley is not wider than 400 meters and the mountains rise several hundred meters. At its narrowest point, the Koman Lake is only 50 metres wide.

The trip with the ferry from Koman to Fierze was the second stage of our road trip through Albania. In my separate article you can read more about this unique Ferry Trip over the Koman Lake.

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#3 The Valbona Valley in the Albanian Alps

From the ferry pier in Fierze it is about 43 kilometres to Valbona in the north-east of Albania. The mountain village lies in the valley of the river Valbona, secluded in the Albanian Alps. On both sides of the valley rise rugged rocks and high mountains with peaks of up to 2,694 metres. Bears, wolves and chamois live here. The whole area around Valbona is protected as National Park Valbona Valley.

The Valbona Valley is easily accessible via an asphalt road, even in winter. The Valbona river, interspersed with rocks, accompanies the road for a while, but then disappears deep into the bedrock of the karst rocks. At the end of the road, there is only a dirt road through the dry riverbed to the village of Rragam. But no matter if road or dirt road: both are surrounded by a fantastic, wild landscape of forests, mountains, caves, mountain lakes and alpine meadows.

Due to the beauty of the landscape and the great hiking possibilities Valbona has become a tourist magnet. There are many small guesthouses and rooms. A few years ago, when a hotel chain wanted to build a large hotel complex here, the inhabitants united to face the excavators. They prevented the construction of the hotel and preserved the valley for a more sustainable tourism.

The main attraction of the Valbona Valley is the numerous hiking possibilities. There are easy walks, tours lasting several days and strenuous summit tours for experienced mountaineers. The one-day hike from Valbona over the Valbona Pass (1812 m) to Theth is popular. There is even the possibility to return from Theth to Valbona by minibus and ferry across the Koman lake to Valbona to a parked vehicle. The hike can also be booked as an organized round trip from Shkodra via Koman and Valbona to Theth and back to Shkodra.

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#4 The "Offroad" track at the Black Drin

The route along the Black Drin is a cult route and extremely popular among off-road travellers. The track in the north-east of Albania takes you through a varied landscape with fantastic views of the Black Drin river valley. The fertile mountain slopes are used for farming and you will see small farmsteads and at the end of the track also small settlements.

In serpentines, the 56 kilometres long track first winds down to the river valley. Adventurous bridges span the Black Drin and make the driving pleasure even more enjoyable. In my separate article you can read what to expect on The "Offroad" track at the Black Drin .

Ideas for your next Road Trip

Are you looking for ideas and inspiration for your next road trip or for your camping stove? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books at Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you and you do me a huge favor.

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#5 Lake Ohrid & Detour to Macedonia

Lake Ohrid is the second largest lake in the Balkans and is partly in Macedonia and partly in Albania. The deep blue lake is framed by an impressive mountain scenery with peaks of up to 2,200 metres. The age of Lake Ohrid is estimated at two to five million years. It is therefore one of the oldest lakes in the world. Animal and plant species have developed here that are found nowhere else. The shores of the lake are also among the oldest settlement areas in Europe.

Lake Ohrid is an important nature reserve and is therefore protected as UNESCO biosphere reserve. Furthermore, the lake and the old town of Ohrid are listed as UNESCO World Heritage. There are many places worth seeing on the lake shore, camping facilities and the opportunity for a very special dive.

Time Travel in the Village Lin

A visit to the village Lin, on the western shore of Lake Ohrid, is like a journey through time. Narrow alleys lead to the shore, where there are countless moorings for small rowing and motor boats. In the centre of the village you can forget the time with a drink on the terrace of the restaurant Leza. A small hiking trail leads you around the headland. You will see gardens on the shore of Lake Ohrid where the locals grow their vegetables. On the rocks you will also find great places for a picnic with a view. And maybe you'll even have a few of the sheep running free here to keep you company.

Side Trip to Macedonia - the City of Ohrid and diving in the "Bay of Bones"

If you have the time, then a trip to Macedonia is definitely worthwhile. The city of Ohrid is a real gem. Especially the church of St. John is worth seeing and certainly one of the most photographed churches in the country.

If you continue east from Ohrid, you will arrive after 30 minutes in the Bronze Age. In the "Bay of Bones" remains of a Bronze Age lake dwelling were found. The settlement has been reconstructed and is now an open-air museum. Do you know how to dive? Then what about a dive into the Bronze Age? Under water you can still see remains of the original piles, as well as other artefacts such as shards, jewellery or bones.

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#6 Tirana - Architecture and History

Architectural Highlights

Tirana - the capital of Albania - is a city with many faces. In the centre, old and new, poor and rich, and western and eastern culture mix. You can see this particularly well at the central Skanderberg Square. Here a mosque stands next to the Soviet-style monumental buildings. New buildings with chic shops mix with old buildings. After a 10-minute walk, you will reach a particularly building from here: the Pyramid of Tirana. The building was inaugurated in 1988. At that time it housed the Enver Hoxha Museum and was covered with gold mirrored plates. It is said to have been the most expensive communist building to that time. Today it is a lost place in the middle of the city. And in the future? There are plans to convert the pyramid into a youth centre.

But it is not only the architecture that attracts attention. There are also the colours. Bright red, bright blue or sunny yellow. Hardly any colour was left out when the artist and then mayor Edi Rama decided in 2000 to banish the grey tristesse from the city. But he also declared war on illegal development in Tirana. According to the motto "Clean and Green", the parks were cleaned up and newly planted. His program was effective, and Tirana today looks quite modern and tidy - at least in the center.

Book Recommendations for Architecture Fans

Are you as fascinated by Soviet-era architecture as I am? Then you will be thrilled by these three books*.

History in Bunk'Art 2

However, the process of coming to terms with Albania's history is more hidden. It is located under the city in the former nuclear shelter of the Ministry of the Interior. Bunk'Art 2 has been inviting visitors to learn about Albania's history since 2016. The focus is on the reappraisal of the time during the communist government. Bunk'Art 2 documents the history of the Albanian secret police from 1912 to 1991. The museum is very informative, moving and shocking at the same time. Details of the secret police's brutal actions against the Albanian population are shown for the first time. In the cool and dark atmosphere of the bunker, the victims of political persecution are given names and faces. If you want to understand Albania, then I highly recommend a visit to Bunk'Art 2.

Location: Abdi Toptani, within 3 minutes walking distance from Skanderberg Square.
Opening hours: daily from 9 am to 6 pm

And after Bunk'Art 2? About 100 meters south is the Shetitorja Murat Toptani. The road is closed for cars and there are nice cafes and cosy restaurants. Here you can let your visit to the museum settle down.

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#7 Berat - the City of 1000 Windows

With more than 2400 years of settlement history Berat is one of the oldest towns in Albania. The old craft and trade town is picturesquely situated on a hill on the river Osum. Narrow alleys, steep stairs and picturesque nooks and crannies characterize the town. The Ottoman houses from the 18th/19th century stand densely packed and line up the hill. White facades, black slate roofs and large windows offer a great panorama from the opposite side of the river. By the way, the many large windows gave Berat the nickname "City of 1000 Windows".

Berat is one of the most popular destinations in Albania. Since 2015 the city is listed as UNESCO World Heritage Site. Besides the Ottoman Old Town and the beautiful Trinity Church, the castle "Kalaja e Beratit" is also one of the sights. This medieval castle is also the only inhabited castle complex from Ottoman times in Albania.

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#8 Osum Canyon, Thermal Springs in Benje and Lengarica Canyon

Steep gorges in Osum Canyon and gravel roads that lead through breathtaking mountain landscapes. Relax in the warm thermal springs near the village of Bënja or do a spectacular river hike through Lengarica Canyon. Albania shows itself from its most beautiful side on this stage. And because there is so much to experience here, I have also written a separate article about Osum Canyon, the thermal springs in Benje and Lengarica Canyon .

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#9 Gjirokastra with its imposing fortified Houses

The houses in Gjirokastra are not comparable with anything I have seen before. Thick stone walls and small windows are supposed to protect life and limb. It were always the men who did something wrong and then entrenched themselves in the upper floors of the fortresses. For fear of the blood revenge. Fortunately, the blood revenge no longer exists ... The impressive fortresses and towers are still standing and are witnesses of a turbulent past. You can find many of these houses in the city of Gjirokastra.

Gjirokastra is located in the south of Albania and is one of the oldest cities and also an important cultural center of Albania. Already in 1961 the communist government declared Gjirokastra as a "museum city". Thus, the city escaped the radical changes that other places experienced during the communist era. Since 2005, Gjirokastra is also on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

You can also visit Gjirokastra with a guided day tour from Tirana.

On the hills of the city lie hundreds of uniquely preserved stone fortified houses, also called kulla. The plots are surrounded by high walls. One of the largest and most magnificent fortified houses in Gjirokastra is the Zekate house of the wealthy Zeko family. It was built in 1811/12 and has been rising above the town of Gjirokaster ever since. Already in 1973 it was awarded as a cultural monument. For a small fee of 1 Euro you can visit the Zekate house .

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#10 In the dry Riverbed from Tepelene to Himarë

The drive from Tepelene via Kuç to Himarë was our biggest adventure in Albania and highlight number one during our road trip. And this for several reasons:

Part of the Route was not marked on any Map

The entire route from Tepelene to Himarë is about 55 kilometers long with an off-road part of about 42 kilometers (as of 2018). However, part of the track could not be found on any map. However, we had a good description of the route from the road book of the Hobo Team*. It should lead through a riverbed that is dry in summer. We tried to find out more about this exciting track and looked at the area on Google Earth. There we actually recognized a dry river and with a lot of fantasy we could imagine a route. We saved this route in our GPS and then we started.

Down in the Riverbed our Four Wheel Drive failed

After we found the section from Tepelene to the turnoff to the track to Kuç (there was actually a sign at the turnoff), we went downhill. Not only that the gravel road led us downhill into the river valley. Also with our vehicle technology it went downhill. As soon as we reached the bottom, we noticed that our four-wheel drive had broken down! And in front of us were several kilometres of dried out riverbed with more or less loose gravel and numerous fords! What a fright! But thank god, one of us knew a lot about technology. Till repaired the four-wheel drive provisionally. But from now on we could only switch it on under the car, directly at the transfer case. Suddenly a gear lever next to the driver's seat appears in a completely different light - pure luxury!

Fords, Fords and again Fords - for all who never get enough

The riverbed was not as dry as one would imagine a dry riverbed to be. About halfway through the stretch - our four-wheel drive was now permanently on during the runway drive - it got wet. The first ford was most exciting. Then came another one. And then many more...It was mega fun! All in all there must have been ten fords that we had to cross - no, we were allowed to. On the photos they don't look that spectacular, but believe me, they were. And they were THE highlight of our road trip in Albania!

During the route only one vehicle and two riders came towards us. The first rider greeted us rather timidly. The second rider - a female rider, to be precise - waved cheerfully and turned her thumbs up... perhaps because I was sitting at the steering wheel as a woman. Hard to believe, but for a woman driving a car in the rural areas of Albania not so unusual.

The landscape of the Kurvelesh region is the most beautiful mountainous region of Albania besides the Albanian Alps. The plateau is criss-crossed by mountain ranges and river valleys and is difficult to access. So far, the naturalness of the region has been largely preserved. But new tourist areas are to be developed and it may not be long before the first sections are asphalted.

Tip: the riverbed is a perfect place to stay overnight. There are 1001 nice pitches and you are almost all alonehere. Wildly romantic! As soon as the river bed is followed by an uphill section, the possible pitches for the night become less and less.

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#11 Albania's Coast - a little bit of everything

Albania's coast is long and varied. There are lonely bays and steep cliffs, overpopulated bathing and party beaches, wild river deltas and national parks. There is something for every taste.

On our road trip we only got to know single beach sections in the south of Albania. Because after we came from the lonely inland to the coast, it was simply too crowded for us there. That's high season!

Even though the coast of Albania was no highlight for us during our road trip, I still have a tip for you:

The beach in Gjipe: The beach in Gjipe: the small beach can only be reached via a rough gravel road or by boat. It lies idyllically framed in a canyon. The beach invites you to swim and is also the starting point for hikes up the valley. On the beach itself there is a bar where you can get simple snacks or a drink. There is also a small camping site. If you want to drive the route with your 4x4, you should have a good ground clearance and not be afraid to reverse on a steep slope. We finally decided to park on the big parking lot above the beach. Here we could also stay overnight for a small fee. We reached the beach after a 30 minutes walk.

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#12 Saranda and Butrint

Coastal Town Saranda

The small coastal town of Saranda is located in the very south of Albania and is only a stone's throw away from the Greek island of Corfu. Saranda was developed as a seaside resort from the 1950s onwards and is now visited by about 500,000 guests every year. There is a beach promenade and numerous restaurants and hotels. And it is quite busy in the main season. Many day guests also come by boat from Corfu. Because in Saranda you can not only swim in the Ionian Sea, but also visit one of the most popular highlights in Albania: the approximately 3000 year old ruined city of Butrint.

Ruins of Butrint

Strategically located on a peninsula, it is home to numerous ruins from ancient times. Particularly well preserved is a semi-circular theatre from the 3rd century BC. Since 1992, the ruins of Butrint have been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Directions to get there: The ruins are located about 20 kilometers south of Saranda and are easily accessible by bus or own car. If you arrive early, there is also a parking lot near the entrance. For all others there is another large parking lot about 1.4 kilometers away, which is also a good place to park for the night.

Worth seeing is also the national park that was established around the ruins. The park is especially important for amphibians, reptiles and birds.

By the way, you can also visit Butrint on a guided day tour* from Tirana.

Syri i Kaltër Karst Spring (Blue Eye)

Another attraction near Saranda is the karst spring Syri i Kaltër (Blue Eye). Here ice-cold deep water gushes upwards. Those who are particularly brave dare to jump into the cold water. However, if you prefer a quieter pace, you can enjoy a drink in one of the restaurants or go for a walk. The parking spaces here are also often used as parking spaces for the night. The access to Syri i Kaltër is via a bridge, where you have to pay a small entrance fee.

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#13 Lost Places

Did I tell you that I love Lost Places? I am magically drawn to the morbid charm of abandoned buildings and industrial ruins. And Albania is an absolute paradise in this respect! Many Lost Places are relicts from the communist era. Supported by the socialist planned economy, numerous mines and factories were built during Enver Hoxha's time in power. Many of them are now standing still. We saw an abandoned munitions factory, the Hoxha pyramid in Tirana, an old oil refinery and even oil pumps. But we were not quite sure whether they were still in operation or not. Oil was on the ground around the oil pump and ran over a small trickle along the road. At the edge of the road were rusty oil tanks. They looked abandoned, but some of them were still filled and probably still in use.

Here are a few Lost Places highlights, which we discovered during our road trip in Albania:

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#14 Bunker

Countless bunkers remind us today of the once socialist Albania under Enver Hoxha. Most of them are small mushroom-shaped bunkers, which often stand together in groups of three. They characterize the landscape. Most were built between 1972 and 1984. Their number is estimated at about 200,000. Exactly how many there were, however, is unclear. And how many of them are still left.

After leaving the Warsaw Pact in 1968, Enver Hoxha prepared Albania for the invasion of enemy troops. A place in a bunker was therefore to be created for every Albanian. From here the country was to be defended against the invaders in the partisan fight. The bunker construction swallowed a huge amount of money and concrete at that time and put an enormous burden on the weak economy of the country.

Most of the bunkers were built in the border regions, at the sea or at strategically important points. Three different types of construction are most common:

• Small pillbox bunkers for one person, resembling concrete mushrooms. They were often built in groups of three and were connected by a passageway.
• Small bunkers for four persons
• Larger bunkers for artillery guns

Besides, there's also:

• Submarine Bunker
• Observation stands on the beach
• Large underground command bunkers
• Underground aircraft caverns
• Caverns and ammunition depots

Many bunkers are now overgrown, slopes have fallen or sunken. Some have also been dismantled or found a new use. Mostly however unfortunately as toilet or garbage container. But some of them are used by farmers for example as material storage or stable. In cities bunkers have been converted into cafés, restaurants, museums, shops or even residential buildings. A nice example of this is the Bunk'Art Museum in Tirana.

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#15 Monuments from the Communist Era

In Albania, several hundred monuments, so-called lapidars, still remind us of the communist era. They are mostly vertical, abstract monuments made of concrete. They are often decorated with communist symbols such as the red star. Some have also been supplemented by reliefs or statues. They are considered works of art of Socialist Realism. For me they were one of the highlights of our road trip to Albania.

The lapidars were mostly erected to commemorate martyrs of the Albanian partisan fight in the Second World War. For this purpose, prominent, highly visible or historically significant locations were chosen. You can see many lapidars by the roadside. Because in every town and village the regime built those monuments. This made the communist party omnipresent.

But from the once 800 to 1000 lapidars, today, only approximately 680 are supposed to be preserved. Some of them have been decayed, destroyed, transformed or moved. But some have also been restored and even received a new coat of paint. I consider the lapidars to be a unique cultural asset and therefore I photographed them with enthusiasm. Here you can see a small selection:

Besides the Lapidars, you can also find other monuments in Albania, which were built during the time of the socialist People's Republic. These include bronze statues, larger socialist monuments and martyr cemeteries.

Tip: The Albanian Lapidary Survey Project is dedicated to the inventory and documentation of all remaining lapidars. On their website you can see numerous photos including location information. The catalogue is supplemented by a bilingual e-book (English/Albanian), which you can download for free as a PDF file from Punctum Books, Brooklyn (donations are welcome).

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General Tips for your Roadtrip in Albania

Animals on the Roads

As soon as we had crossed the border, we almost ran over a turtle. We were expecting cows and sheep. But turtles? No way. But they don't seem so rare, because we almost ran over another one later. I would have been inconsolable! So open your eyes and pay attention. And best not to drive in the dark, because then you see the animals even worse. 

Uphill, downhill and around the Bend

The roads in Albania are rarely flat and rarely go straight for a long distance. This applies not only to gravel roads but also to asphalt roads. Some stretches along the coast were so steep downhill that we had to drive in first gear with reduction.

This brought our travel planning a little bit mixed up. Because of the roads we drove much slower. That meant that in the end we spent much more time driving than planned. That wasn't bad now, we could take turns and we enjoyed driving through the landscape. A real road trip!

Pitches for the Night

Albania is a paradise for campers. Because the so-called "wild camping" is allowed and quite normal in Albania. No matter whether with camper or with tent. We were always greeted friendly by passing cars (which can happen even on the remote slopes). Sometimes we were even asked if everything was ok or if we needed help. So you can have a chat even in the most remote places.

The "wild camping" will of course only be accepted as long as all campers follow certain rules. That means:

• Don't leave garbage or any other mess!
• Do not destroy nature with your tires! Respect nature reserves and national parks and stay here on the official parking lots.
• Keep some distance to settlements / houses.
• Be careful with open fire - only at suitable places, or better avoid it.
• Don't park on cultivated land

During our road trip in Albania almost every pitch for the night was a highlight in itself. Here are a few impressions. Where exactly our pitches were, you can see in the map at the very beginning of my article.

Of course there are also camping sites with the usual facilities or pitches on hotel car parks in the cities, such as in Tirana or Saranda. The campsite in Koman was really nice, located directly at the water.

You need camping equipment? Maybe a GPS or new camping chairs? Take a look at Globetrotter*.

Refuelling

We have researched the diesel prices on the Internet beforehand. The fuel was cheaper in Macedonia than in Albania, so we refuelled there. Our 300 liter tank gave us the necessary leeway. But in general the following applies to Albania: There is unleaded petrol, super and diesel. You will probably get the better quality at bigger petrol stations, where you can pay also by card. The petrol station network is quite dense. But if you drive to remote areas, you should check the fueling possibilities and fill up your tank again. Always take into account the fact that you might not be able to drive all the way to the end of an off-road track and have to turn around. The fuel should still be enough for that as well.

Drinking Water

In the Albanian Alps there are numerous natural springs from which you can drink directly. Here we also filled up our water tank again. Alternatively you can fill up your water tank at the petrol stations. Since our motorhome has a built-in water filter, we have been able to drink the water from our tank. However, we preferred not to drink unfiltered tap water.

Shopping

In the cities there are supermarkets as we know them and in the villages there are corner shops as we used to know them. For fruit, vegetables and honey you can also often find stands at the roadside. During our tour in Albania we always filled up our supplies in corner shops or at street stands.

Waste water

We have collected our washing waste water in a mobile canister. For our chemical toilet we also have a typical toilet tank. Both we could dispose of in the sanitary facilities provided on campsites. This also worked when we were no guests and just asked friendly. Whenever there was a café or shop there, we ordered or bought something there.  

Garbage

Many parking lots are unfortunately, unfortunately littered in Albania. Often we went around with the garbage bag and cleaned up. For the garbage disposal there are containers at the roadsides in populated areas. Unfortunately there was no waste separation in summer 2018.

Toll in Albania

Since late summer 2018, Albania has also a toll system in place. So far, however, only for the "Rruga e Kombit", the A1 motorway from the coast to Kosovo. Prices: 2.50 Euro for motorized two-wheelers; 5 Euro for cars; 11 to 17 Euro for motor homes depending on size.

Traffic Rules

In addition to an EU driving licence and the vehicle registration document, you also need the green insurance card. If you are not the owner of the vehicle, you will also need a power of attorney from the owner, a copy of the vehicle registration document and a copy of the owner's passport.

Furthermore applies:

• Obligation to wear seat belts
• Mobile phone ban
• Zero alcohol limit!
• The headlights must be switched on even during the day.
• Speed limits: 40 km/h in town, 80 or 90 km/h depending on signs. 110 km/h on the motorway.

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Roadbooks - Travel Guide - Road Map (sorry, the books here are only in german language)

Available at Amazon

Albanien “Offroad-Guide”: ausgewählte Strecken für Abenteurer von Martina Kaspar

Absolutely indispensable for us was the Albania "Offroad-Guide" from the Hobo-Team. Because here the Hobo-Team presents the most beautiful routes for adventurous offroaders. Included are twenty long tours described and illustrated in detail and eleven detours to smaller destinations worth seeing. There is also information on the difficulty of the route so that you can judge whether the route is suitable for you and your vehicle. With lots of additional information, the Hobo Team makes you want to discover the country.

Available at Amazon

GPS-Offroad Travel Guide Island from Sabine and Burkhard Koch

The off-road travel guide Albania von den Kochs describes 26 off-road routes. For each route a degree of difficulty is given, which makes it easier to make one's own assessment in connection with the vehicle class. The Kochs have given the routes a rating in the form of stars, in which the driving fun, the landscape and the experience value are incorporated. There are also tips and tricks for off-road driving and further information about Albania.

Available at Amazon

Travel Know-How Travel Guide Albania by Meike Gutzweiler

With the Albania travel guide from Reise Know-How you are perfectly prepared for your discovery tour in Albania. In addition to many practical tips, there is just as much background information on the country and its people. The travel guide contains tips for city walks and hikes as well as supplementary city maps and general maps.

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Albania, Road Map 1:150.000 by Freytag & Berndt

In addition to our GPS and mobile phone maps we had a classic car map made of paper with us. And - despite all modern technical achievements - we really enjoyed using it. And you can draw in the driven route soooooo beautifully by hand! This makes the road trip even more enjoyable!

Have you ever been on a road trip in Albania? How did you like it and what were your highlights? Do you have any questions about my article? If yes, then write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading - more Roadtrips

With Land Rover Series II to Iceland - ABC for an "Offroad"-Trip

Relics from the Soviet Era - Tips for your discovery tour in the Baltic States

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Linnahall in Tallinn, Estland

Linnahall used to be called the "Lenin Palace of Arts and Sports". Because the huge building was erected in 1980 for the Olympic Games in Moscow. Inside the concrete monster also hides a concert hall. However, this has been closed since 2009. On the outside, wide stairs and walkways lead to the roof of the remarkable building. Some parts of the building are even still in use. But nowadays there can be no talk of a palace anymore. Nevertheless, the Linnahall is gladly visited by tourists and just as gladly photographed. Because with its grey concrete facade, the colourful graffiti and the monumental architecture it is an impressive relic of the Soviet Era.

Limestone Quarry in Rummu, Estonia

Marble was mined in the Rummu opencast mine from 1938 to 1991. The stone was then processed into steps and gravel in the Vasalemma lime and marble factory. During these years the inmates of the neighbouring Murru prison were used as workers. With the end of the Soviet era, however, open-cast mining was abandoned. As a result, the pit filled up with water and several factory buildings were flooded. Next to the lake, a photogenic gravel pit also bears witness to those times.

However, with the end of the Soviet era, the open pit mine was abandoned. As a result, the mine filled with water and several factory buildings were flooded in the process. Next to the lake, a photogenic gravel pile also bears witness to those times.

However, the area is officially closed. But also from the opposite shore you have a good view of the ruins.

Watchtowers at Cape Kolka, Latvia

Cape Kolka separates the Gulf of Riga from the Baltic Sea. From here it is not far to the Swedish coast. Therefore, Cape Kolka was a restricted military area during the Soviet era. For this reason there were more watchtowers around Cape Kolka than in other places. And some of them are still standing and remind us of times gone by. One of them stands in the dunes on the beautiful sandy beach off Mazirbe.

Boat Graveyard Mazirbe, Latvia

Have you ever stumbled over boats during a walk in the woods? Here in Mazirbe that can happen to you. Because here the remains of several fishing boats lie in the forest and rot away. On some of them even the names of the boats are still recognizable. Others, however, have only a pile of wood left.

And why are the boats hidden here in the forest? The Soviet border guards feared that people were settling on the Swedish coast. So fishing was banned and the boats were "secured" in the forest. Only with a special licence were individual fishermen allowed to do their work with their boats.

Radio Telescope in Irbene, Latvia

The Radiolelescope R-32 in Irbene is the eighth largest parabolic antenna in the world with a diameter of 32 metres. It was built by the Soviets in 1980 together with two other installations. With these parabolic antennas, the Soviets intercepted Western satellite transmissions.

Today the antenna belongs to the International Radio Astronomy Centre Ventspils (virac) and is used for research. The antenna can even be visited during guided tours. However, you have to book at least three days in advance. You can find more information here.

You can reach the parabolic antenna via a narrow road, 24 kilometres north of Ventspils. The road will also take you past several abandoned residential barracks.

Orvydas Garden, Lithuania

In front of the entrance to Orvydas Garden there is an old Soviet tank. The cannon barrel is directed towards the entrance of the garden. Because Orvydas family was persecuted by the Soviets. The access to the garden was blocked off at that time.

Hidden behind the garden wall lies a paradisiacal idyll. Sculptures, crosses and memorial stones are overgrown with trees and flowers. This magical place was created by the stonemason Orvydas and his son in the 1960s. Because at that time the Soviet head of government Khrushchev banned religious symbols. For this reason the stones and figures were brought here from the Salantai cemetery. Thus they were saved from destruction.

Nuclear Missile Base, Lithuania

In the past, nuclear missiles aimed at Western Europe here. But today, the Cold War Museum here about times past. Times when schoolchildren learned how to behave in case of an attack with nuclear missiles. By means of vividly prepared colorful wall posters. This museum in the former rocket base Plokštinė makes you think. Especially the view into the interior of a rocket shaft I had to process for a while afterwards.

A visit to this museum in this special place should not be missed on your tour of the Baltic States. It is also located in the middle of the Žemaitija National Park. Here you will find many nice places for a break or an overnight stay to process what you have seen.

Further Relics from the Soviet Era in the Baltic States

There are many other relics from the Soviet era in the Baltic States. Unfortunately our road trip in the Baltic States was limited in time and we could not visit all places. But maybe you have some more time and can discover more. There are for example:

• The Hotel Viru in the skyscraper with the KGB spy center in Tallinn
• The coastal town of Sillamäe in Estonia with Stalinist architecture and a former factory for uranium processing
• "The Pension", a top secret Soviet-Era fallout shelter in Ligatne, Latvia
• The village of Visaginas with Soviet housing silos for the workers of the former nuclear power plant Ignalina, Lithuania
• The The Hill of Crosses in Šiauliai as a symbol of Lithuanian resistance to Soviet rule

You've seen enough Soviet-era relics here in the Baltic States now? Then how about a walk on the moors? Estonia is famous for its raised bogs - here you can read my Article about the Soomaa Bog.

Can you think of any other relics from the Soviet era in the Baltic States? Or do you have a question about my article? I am looking forward to your tips and comments.

Recommendations for further Reading

Chernobyl - Photography against oblivion

Eisenhüttenstadt – Zeitreise in eine sozialistische Planstadt

Der Beitrag Relikte aus der Sowjetzeit – Tipps für eure Tour im Baltikum erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Non-solicited, unpaid advertising. This article contains affiliate links*, marked with an asterisk.

Content

Osum Canyon
Thermal Springs Banjat e Benjës
River Hike in Lengarica Canyon Osum Canyon

Here you can read my main article about our Road Trip Albania - 15 Highlights & Tips and Route.

Osum Canyon

The river Osum flows through several canyons with rock faces up to 80 metres high over a length of about 14 kilometres. With its yellow-grey cliffs and rugged rock formations it forms a breathtaking landscape.

The town of Çorovoda is the starting point for exploring the canyon. Directly behind Çorovoda the road starts and leads up the river on the left side of the Osum. You drive all the time directly at the edge of the gorge and there are many spectacular views.

About nine kilometres after Çorovoda, it is also worth stopping at a narrow bridge over the canyon. From here you have a great view into the canyon and it is also a perfect place for a break or the night (40°27'17.5″N 20°15'57.4″E). You can also continue up the gravel road behind the bridge. At the second bend you will reach a small river. In front of the concrete bridge there is a nice parking place next to the river (40°27'39.4″N 20°15'44.4″E). Here you also have water for cooking and washing.

After about 13 kilometres you will come to Lapanj. Up to here the road was asphalted. Now a bridge leads to the other side of the Osum and it continues on gravel roads. The road leaves the river and winds its way up the mountain flanks. A few settlements are scattered on the fertile plateaus. About halfway you reach an idyllically situated camping site. The doughnuts with the homemade honey and yoghurt offered here are absolutely recommendable.

After a total of 26 kilometres of gravel road you will reach the SH75 road and after another 21 kilometres the sulphur springs of Benje.

The road is easy to drive, but there are steep climbs and our tires often went crazy on the gravel. Four-wheel drive is an advantage. The road is narrow, but it is usually possible to avoid the few oncoming vehicles.

Ideas for your next Road Trip

Are you looking for ideas and inspiration for your next road trip or for your camping stove? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books at Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you and you do me a huge favor.

Thermal Springs Banjat e Benjës

The warm thermal springs near Benje are the most water-rich thermal springs in Albania. The sulphurous water, warm up to 30°C, is contained in four natural stone pools of different sizes in the front section of the Lengarica Canyon. On weekends many Albanians from nearby towns come here to relax in nature. The water is said to have healing effects on skin, stomach and circulation diseases as well as rheumatism.

There are also guided day trips to the Osum Gorge from Berat.

The entrance fee to the thermal springs and the stream is 100 Lek per person. The use of the car park is included.

Also the attached, very simple camping site invites you to stay. However, it was a bit too crowded for us at the thermal springs. Therefore we walked further upstream into the Lengarica Canyon.

Near the thermal springs there is also a nice place for the night with a view (40°14'40.0″N 20°26'03.2″E). You don't drive left to the parking lot of the sulphur springs but straight ahead. The road rises and winds up the mountains. On the left side there is a nice parking place.

You need camping equipment? Maybe a GPS or new camping chairs? Take a look at Globetrotter*.

River Hike in Lengarica Canyon Osum Canyon

The Lengarica Gorge is a narrow gorge, about four kilometres long and up to 100 metres deep. At its narrowest point, it is only about three metres wide. From the thermal springs you can walk about 2.5 kilometres upstream through the canyon during the summer months at low tide.

Right at the beginning you pass one of the most beautiful stone bridges from the Ottoman times - the Ura e Kadiut. The bridge is a great photo motif in any case. While we walk partly on the shore and partly through the water, warm and cold water alternate again and again. The river bed is still relatively wide. That's why many bathers have settled comfortably on the shallow banks.

After approximately 300 metres upstream, the walls of the gorge become higher and the watercourse narrower and narrower, until finally there is no bank at all anymore. The gorge is breathtakingly narrow here, rock washes and grottos are to the left and right of the stream. In some of the caves there are even said to be prehistoric murals. We wade through the river, partly on sand and partly on stone. Bathing shoes are of great advantage here, as the rocks are damn slippery and several times I almost involuntarily went for a swim. After a right turn the canyon widens again. Here there are many nice quiet places for a break or a bath. The water here is much colder and a pleasant refreshment. After a total of about 2.5 kilometres you finally reach the second bridge from the Ottoman period - the Ura e Dashit.

Book Recommendations for Albania

Do you want to know where the journey is going? Then I can recommend this travel guides* to you.

Have you ever been on a road trip in Albania? How did you like it and what were your highlights? Do you have any questions about my article? If yes, then write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading - more Roadtrips

With Land Rover Series II to Iceland - ABC for an "Offroad"-Trip

Relics from the Soviet Era - Tips for your discovery tour in the Baltic States

Der Beitrag Roadtrip Albanien – Osum Canyon bis Lengarica Canyon erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Non-solicited, unpaid advertising. This article contains affiliate links*, marked with an asterisk.

Content

The Komani Lake in Albania
By Ferry from Koman to Fierza
The Ferry Fleet from the Koman Lake
What is there to see and do?
Tips for your Roadtrip - with the Ferry across the Koman Lake

Here you can read my main article about our Road Trip Albania - 15 Highlights & Tips and Route.

The Komani Lake in Albania

The Koman Lake is a reservoir that dams the Drin River in northern Albania. It is also fed by the rivers Valbona and Shala. In deep gorges, the reservoir stretches for 34 kilometres through the Albanian Alps. The valley is no wider than 400 metres and the mountains rise several hundred metres. At its narrowest point, the Koman reservoir is only 50 meters wide.

The associated dam is located just behind Koman and was built between 1979 and 1988 as part of a major energy production project. The project was partly realised with the support of the Chinese. The dam measures an impressive 115 metres and dams the lake to an area of twelve square kilometres. The reservoir is up to 96 metres deep and holds up to 430 million cubic metres of water.

The hydropower plant operates four turbines that supply 600 MW of electricity. This made it the largest hydroelectric power station in Southeast Europe at the time. However, due to water shortages, electricity production has had to be reduced several times in recent years. Nevertheless, most of the Albanian electricity is still produced from the reservoir.

You are traveling in Albania without a car? Then maybe the guided day tour to Koman Reservoir from Tiranais interesting for you.

By Ferry from Koman to Fierza

A ferry ride across the Komani Lake is the most beautiful way to get from the town of Skodra to the Valbona Valley. For us it was the second stage of our road trip in Albania. During the ferry trip you can experience the Albanian mountains from the water in a very relaxed way.

Already the approach from Skodra to Koman via the mountain road SH 25 is a highlight and offers again and again beautiful views of the Drin. The road is paved, but in bad condition, so you better plan a little more time for the 30 kilometers from the village Vau-Deja to Koman. Along the route there is always the possibility for a stopover and a cooling down in the water. And soon numerous masts for high-voltage power lines will indicate that a lot of electricity is produced here at the reservoirs.

The Ferry Fleet from the Koman Lake

In summer 2018 there were two ferry operators: Komani Lake Ferry operates two smaller ferries Berisha and Dragobia. In July 2018 we had pre-booked tickets for the crossing with our camper online. But when we arrived the evening before we found out that our ferry was taken out of service because of safety problems. The money was given back via Paypal and we could even buy tickets for the following day on a bigger ferry. This was from Alpin and could transport about 60 vehicles.

On board the Alpin there are drinks and snacks, on the upper deck you can sit down and enjoy the view. Albanian music sounds from a loudspeaker and many accompanying Albanians dance to it. It is a pleasant, relaxed atmosphere and you can make nice contacts.

Prices (2018): Komani Lake Ferry charges 6 Euro per square meter. For our camper this was 60 Euro plus 6 Euro per person.
On the ferry Alpin the tickets for the camper with driver cost between 54 and 77 Euro and 8 Euro per additional person.

Departure times (2018): From Koman the ferries of Komani Lake Ferry depart daily at 9 am. The Alpin ferry departs daily at 12 noon.

In addition to the ferries, there are also excursion boats for round trips on the reservoir. Smaller boats also bring people and goods to the remote villages in the mountains, which can only be reached by water.

Boarding: The road to the ferry terminal is closed until all vehicles have left the ferry. Meanwhile, all vehicles wishing to board the ferry are collected at the bottom of the large parking lot in front of the barrier. On the forecourt in front of the pier, the vehicle must then be turned around and driven backwards onto the ferry. Several experienced guides will help.

What is there to see and do?

• One of the most beautiful river trips in breathtaking scenery through the rocky gorges of the Drin
• Isolated villages
• Continuing into the Valbona Valley: great hiking opportunities on well-marked trails in the Albanian Alps, cave visits and even more secluded villages.

But one thing clouds the sky over paradise and makes clouds come up. Clouds drifting on the water in rainbow colours. Blue plastic bottles, red chip bags or yellow plastic of chocolate bars - just to name a few. Everywhere there, if the current is somewhat calmer, the sins of consumer society accumulate. And they are becoming more and more day by day. Garbage left behind by the visitors and produced by the villages situated on the shore. Meanwhile even garbage boats are supposed to try to fight the plastic garbage. But apparently they don't follow. I strongly hope for the lake that tourism and environmental protection will tackle the problem of plastic waste together in the future and that they will work for a regulated waste disposal from the villages.

Tips for your Roadtrip - with the Ferry across the Koman Lake

Directions to get there: From Skodra via Vau Deja it is about 57 kilometres. By the way: You don't necessarily need your own car to get from Skodra to Valbona. Komani Lake Ferry Berisha offers a pick up service from Tirana, Shkodra and Valbona.

Refuelling: The last filling station is in Vau Deja, about 33 kilometres before Koman.

Drinking Water: You can fill your water tanks for washing and cooking at the gas station in Vau Deja. But I wouldn't drink the water.

Pitches for the Night: At the bridge shortly before Koman there is a small simple camping site, directly at the water. From the street the campsite doesn't look very inviting, but down by the water it is very quiet. There is even a small bar.
To get to the ferry dock, you have to cross a narrow, single-lane tunnel. Before you enter the tunnel there are parking places on the right where you can stand overnight. Because of the lighting they are a bit bright and unromantic.
Down at the jetty itself it is very narrow and only small campers are allowed. In the morning the vehicles must be driven away here before 9 o'clock. Because as soon as the ferry from Fierza arrives here, every square meter of space is needed.

You need camping equipment? Maybe a GPS or new camping chairs? Take a look at Globetrotter*.

Pitches in Valbona: In Valbona you will find free pitches at the end of the asphalted road next to the dry riverbed. If your camper has all-wheel drive, you can also drive in the dry riverbed (use existing lanes) and find a place for the night there.

Book Recommendations for Albania

Do you want to know where the journey is going? Then I can recommend this travel guides* to you.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Have you ever been on a road trip in Albania? How did you like it and what were your highlights? Do you have any questions about my article? If yes, then write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love road trips as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about a Road trip with Lada Niva and roof tent in Georgia or about a Road Trip with Land Rover Series II to Iceland.

Der Beitrag Roadtrip Albanien – Mit der Fähre über den Komanstausee erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Non-solicited, unpaid advertising. This article contains affiliate links*, marked with an asterisk.

Table of Contents and Quick Navigation

Drive from the City of Koplik to Theth
Theth - Tradition and Tourism
What is there to see and do?
Tips for your Road Trip to Theth

Here you can read my main article about our Road Trip Albania - 15 Highlights & Tips and Route.

Drive from the City of Koplik to Theth

From Koplik to Theth it is about 59 kilometres. The route can be roughly divided into three sections:

• Asphalt road over land about 35 km
• Narrow asphalt road uphill to the Terthorja Pass about 15 km
• Terthorja Pass in the Albanian Alps to Theth about 9 km

As soon as the first hairpin bend is reached, it actually only really starts. Now the narrow asphalt road leads us in 28 hairpin bends uphill to the Terthorja Pass at 1,630 meters altitude. I constantly change back and forth between second and first gear and am glad that no other vehicle meets me in the hairpin bends. On the way there are great views of the valley. Shortly after the pass, an inn invites you to linger. We enjoy the view of the Cem valley and fortify ourselves here before descending again on a dirt road. Welcome to the Albanian Alps!

With our 4x4 camper the road to Theth through the Albanian Alps is a real pleasure. Potholes are no problem and even if the loose gravel causes a tire to spin, three others will grab it. But we especially learned to appreciate the four-wheel drive on the way back: it was raining cats and dogs and the road was muddy and smooth. Sometimes it also means keeping your nerve. Namely when one of the big orange construction site trucks comes along. One of them then has to reverse until the next possible way around allows the truck to drive past. The trucks bring earth and gravel to fill the potholes. In this way they prepare the track for the expansion. Soon there will be one less gravel road in Albania.

Somewhat different oncoming Traffic

But it wasn't just trucks that came to meet us here. Even a stray carriage suddenly blocked our way. Good that we were two of us. After I had turned the pony with the carriage around and led it to an alternative place, our camper could pass. Then I turned the carriage around again and sent the pony on its way to the village. We had seen the pony carriage before and watched how two half strong boys drove the animal energetically uphill. That was quite right for them, that their pony has run away.

Ideas for your next Road Trip

Are you looking for ideas and inspiration for your next road trip or for your camping stove? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books at Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you and you do me a huge favor.

Theth - Tradition and Tourism

The Theth National Park was founded in 1976. It is a beautiful example of a rural, ancient cultural landscape that stretches through the valley. The valley is surrounded by high mountains, mountain forests and pastures. The jagged peaks of several two-thousand-metre peaks also add a crown of dolomite and limestone to the alpine landscape.

In the village itself, the large grey stone houses lie far apart. In between there are vegetable gardens and meadows. A rural idyll, where you can simply let yourself drift during a walk.

Tourism in Theth is still within acceptable limits. There are programmes that promote the development of sustainable tourism and open up new income opportunities for the inhabitants. This is the reason why there is a small tourist information centre and also numerous overnight accommodation and camping facilities. We have therefore renounced wild camping and placed ourselves on the meadow of a guesthouse. Our camper immediately became a popular attraction for the boss's little children.

You don't want to drive the route to Theth yourself or have only little time? Then maybe the guided 2-day tour from Tirana to Theth*is something for you.

What is there to see and do?

• Idyllically situated old church from 1892. The church tower was removed during communism and the building was used as a health centre.
• Blood revenge tower Kulla e Ngujimit: here defendants were able to escape blood revenge for up to 15 days - until the verdict was passed.
• Museum in the old weir house
• Corn mill at the river at the village entrance
• Which we missed, I'm afraid: There are several caves in the Albanian Alps. You can organize a local guide in Theth.
• There are several hiking possibilities on well marked paths. It is even possible to hike to the Valbona valley. From there you can continue by bus and then take the ferry across Lake Komani. From there you can take the bus back to the starting point. We walked this distance from Theth to the Valbona Pass (1.812 m) and back to Theth and were thrilled by the beauty and seclusion.

Further information about the Albanian Alps can be found here.

You need camping equipment? Maybe a GPS or new camping chairs? Take a look at Globetrotter*.

Tips for your Road Trip to Theth

Getting there: The trip to Theth over the Terthorja Pass and the dirt road is only safe during the snow-free period, i.e. between mid-May and the end of September. It is slowly accessible by car. However, neither the vehicle nor the drivers enjoy this, as we were told by two Swedes who drove the track in their snow-white Volvo station wagons.

Refuelling: Fill up first, because there is no petrol station in Theth or on the piste. The last petrol station before Theth is about 13 kilometres behind Koplik.

Drinking Water: There are several springs along the piste where you can get water. We drank it without having to regret it later. Also down in the valley shortly before the hairpin bends there is a larger spring on the left side of the road.

Pitches for the Night: In Theth itself you can stand at the guesthouses and thus support something for the inhabitants. The season is short, so every guest counts.
There is another nice parking place on top of the parking lot at the Terthorja Pass. If you drive through the parking lot to the end, you can stand relatively unseen.
In addition, several slopes branch off from the asphalt road in the valley towards the northwest. Here you can also find nice places.

Food: There is a small shop in Theth where you can buy food. There are also restaurants and several guesthouses offering food.

What else?If your camper is a bit higher, you should pay attention to low hanging cables in the village.

Book Recommendations for Albania

Do you want to know where the journey is going? Then I can recommend this travel guides* to you.

Have you ever been on a road trip in Albania? How did you like it and what were your highlights? Do you have any questions about my article? If yes, then write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love road trips as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about a Road trip with Lada Niva and roof tent in Georgia or about a Road Trip with Land Rover Series II to Iceland.

Der Beitrag Roadtrip Albanien – mit dem Allrad Camper nach Theth erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.