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Last night, it had already been windy. Cold wind whistled through the window beside my bed. But it was not only the wind and the height that kept me awake. I was nervous because of the pass crossing and because of the weather forecast. While I waited for sleep, I let the pictures of our first day run before my eyes. A sea of people and colourful prayer flags came to life again.

The Saga Dawa Festival at Mount Kailash - a sea of people and colourful prayer flags

The first day of our trekking tour was the highlight of the Saga Dawa Festival. This is the most important festival in Buddhism because it celebrates three events at once: the birth, enlightenment and death of Buddha. From the small village of Darchen, many believers made the pilgrimage to the Tarboche. This is a flagpole that is decorated with thousands of colourful prayer flags. With the strength of several men, it is erected to stand in the middle of a valley at the base of Mount Kailash.

After the Tarboche had been erected, many visitors started to circumnavigate Mt. Kailash. This tour around the holy mountain - also called the Kora - is said to be good for the creation of positive karma and the relief from sins. The pilgrims were as colourful as the prayer flags: Old people, young people, families with small children and even women with babies on their backs. Numerous travel groups mingled among the Tibetans. We were one of them. Two Germans, two Californians, six Australians, our Tibetan guide Sonam and our six Tibetan porters accompanied by an emergency pony.

Prayer Flags and Sunglasses

On the second day, we started before sunrise. Sonam divided our small group for the pass crossing. The faster ones followed Nima, the Tibetan woman who carried the common bag for me and my partner. The slower ones would follow Sonam.

Even with the grey clouds hiding the sun, the snow still dazzled my eyes. The wind blew harder at the mountain pass. As soon as I took of my sunglasses, the wind assulted my eyes. So even for photographing, I did not take off my glasses any more.

The path steeply rose. While we climbed the icy parts, Nima always had an eye on us, and she was always there with a helping hand. To protect from the wind, Nima had wrapped her pink cloth around her head. Only her eyes were still free. It was only later that I saw on a photo how much she had squinted her eyes.

The path steeply rose. While we climbed the icy parts, Nima always had an eye on us, and she was always there with a helping hand. To protect from the wind, Nima had wrapped her pink cloth around her head. Only her eyes were still free. It was only later that I saw on a photo how much she had squinted her eyes.

The "Shades of Love" Project

The Saga Dawa Festival is a time to do meritorious things and make others happy. The joy we gave Nima with the gift of sunglasses warmed our hearts in the cold wind of the Tibetan highlands. It was one of the most meaningful and beautiful gifts my partner and I have ever given.

Five months after returning from Tibet, I became aware of the "Shades of Love" project. At their suggestion, I wrote this little story about a great gift. "Shades of Love" collects old and new sunglasses and distributes them in the remote high mountain regions of the Himalayas and the Andes. Because there, in the habitable regions between 2,500 and 5,000 meters, the UV radiation is particularly strong. Many of the people living here suffer from eye disorders. As a result, these difficulties threaten their work and existence.

You want to know more about "Shades of Love?"
Read here, how you can support the project.

You're planning a trip to Tibet? Then you might also be interested in my articles about the Barkhor in Lhasa, the Potala Palace, the forgotten Kingdom of Guge as well as my longer article about our three-Day Trekking Tour around Mount Kailash.

Book Recommendations for Tibet

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books* about Tibet.

You can order these books at Amazon with a click on the pictures. If you buy a product via one of these affiliate links, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you.

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Der Beitrag Wie eine Sonnenbrille meine Augen öffnete und andere Augen zum Leuchten brachte erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Non-solicited, unpaid advertising. This article contains affiliate links*, marked with an asterisk.

What awaits you in my Article about the Monasteries in Tibet:

Norbulingka Palace in Lhasa
Sera Monastery near Lhasa
Pelkor Chöde Monastery in Gyantse
The Journey from Lhasa to Shigatse
Sakya Monastery
Mt. Everest and the highest Monastery in the World - Highlights of our China Trip
Dratun Monastery
Drive from Saga to Lake Manasarovar
Chiu Monastery on Lake Manasarovar
Tashilhunpo Monastery
Ganden Monastery - a worthwhile Day Trip from Lhasa
Drak Yerpa Rock Monastery near Lhasa

Norbulingka Palace in Lhasa

The Norbulingka Palace is the summer palace of the Dalai Lama. It was built in the 18th century by the 7th Dalai Lama and has been continuously extended since then. The park includes several ponds, fountains, bridges and many old trees. In 1959, at the age of 23, the 14th Dalai Lama fled from here to exile to India from the Chinese. He was protected by a crowd of people gathered in front of the palace. During the following Cultural Revolution much of the palace and park was destroyed. Since 1994 the palace has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The entrance to the residence is colourfully decorated. Large stone lions stand to the left and right of the portal. Through a garden with a fountain and flowers you can reach the private rooms of the Dalai Lama. A staircase leads you to the reception room for the pilgrims. The walls are decorated with an elaborate and very detailed painting. It tells the story of Tibet from the origin of the Tibetan people up to 1959, according to which the Tibetan people are descended from a rock demoness and the god Chenresi, embodied in the form of a monkey.

Furthermore, the audience room with the golden throne and several of the Dalai Lama's private rooms can be seen. For example the bedroom, the bathroom, the meditation room or the room that was intended for meetings with his mother.

On the ground floor you come to the so-called audience room with a large golden throne. Below this is the oracle room, which we unfortunately could not visit. To the left of the throne, somewhat hidden, hangs the only picture of the Dalai Lama in all of Tibet. It shows him at the age of 24 years. The possession of a picture of the Dalai Lama is forbidden in Tibet today.

Photography in Norbulingka Palace

Photography is permitted only in the outdoor facilities of the Norbulingka Palace. However, the beauty of the outdoor facilities and the Jewel Garden offer you a variety of great motives.

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Sera Monastery near Lhasa

Sera Monastery, together with Ganden and Drepung Monastery, is one of the three great monasteries of the Gelug Order in Tibet. A special feature of the monastery is the culture of discussion and religious debate. Visitors of the monastery can watch the monks - one sitting, one standing - debating in pairs from 15:30. It is sometimes lively, with grand gestures and clapping hands. This practice of debating goes back to a Buddha's instruction that one should only accept Buddha's teachings after one's own examination of their truth content.

Furthermore, Sera Monastery is known for its large collection of Tibetan scriptures and the printing of texts. In the library you can therefore also buy Tibetan books as souvenirs.

Photography at Sera Monastery

Photography is only allowed outside the buildings. However, for 10 or 20 Yuan, you can also take pictures of the sand mandalas, the bookbindery or the canteen kitchen from inside.

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Pelkor Chöde Monastery in Gyantse

The Pelkor Chöde Monastery is located in the city of Gyantse. It is famous for its Kumbum, which is the largest in Tibet with four floors and 108 chapels. Kumbum is the name for a stupa that contains many holy paintings. This one contains over 10,000 murals and many Buddha statues.

The first buildings of Pelkor Chode Monastery date back to 1427. However, the construction of the famous Kumbum was not started until 1440. In 1904 the monastery was bombarded by the English while they were taking Lhasa. In the course of the Cultural Revolution the monastery was then heavily destroyed. Since 1996 it is on the list of monuments in China.

Photography at Pelkor Chöde Monastery

The murals and figures inside the Kumbum may be photographed. In addition, photography was allowed in the prayer hall and the adjacent chapel for a donation of 20 yuan. The monastery was preparing for the Saga-Dawa Festival. Therefore, it was very decorated and there were especially many offerings.

Excursus: Tibet's monasteries during the Cultural Revolution
Before the rebellion in 1959 there are said to have been 2,700 temples and monasteries in Tibet. The so-called "democratic reforms", which were carried out in Tibet by the Chinese government from 1959, reduced the number of temples and monasteries to 550, but after the Cultural Revolution from 1966 to 1978 there were only eight (source: info-buddhismus.de). Since 1978 the monasteries and temples have been restored. Today there are about 1,700 monasteries in Tibet.

Long tested and much loved: my three companions on photo tours: the lightweight carbon tripod CT-5C I from Rollei*, the cleaning kit from Rollei*and my indestructible camera backpack, the camera backpack, the Flipside from Lowepro*.

The Journey from Lhasa to Shigatse

The landscape changes on the 350 km long way from Lhasa to Shigatse. At first, the route leads over a relatively unspectacular plateau. Then the road begins to wind its way up in serpentines to the Kampa-la Pass (4,797 metres). From here there is a great view of the holy lake Yamdrok-Tso. On the way to Gyantse there are also numerous opportunities for photo shootings with typical Tibetan animals. These include not only the yaks, but also the Tibetan mastiff and kitschily decorated lambs.

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We continue over the even higher Karo-la Pass (5,050 meters) and along a reservoir. The closer we get to Gyantse, the more agriculture and livestock we see: yaks, horses, sheep, cattle. Behind another mountain range, behind which sand dunes spread out, we see extensive reforestation. Because after the intensification of agriculture during the Cultural Revolution, the desertification of the landscape is a big problem in Tibet.

Shigatse calls itself the capital of wheat. Because there are fields all around the city and also along the first part of the route to New Tingri. We also pass through a new settlement with many houses, all looking the same. They are part of a resettlement project of the Chinese government. The Tibetan nomads are to be made sedentary and thus more controllable.

Tibet - the hidden Library in Sakya Monastery

It's dark and cold. Only our mobile phone lamps illuminate the long, narrow corridor behind the large sutra hall. But in the light of our mobile phones we see thousands of books. They pile up to the ceiling. Here I will tell you about the hidden library in Sakya Monastery . You will also learn what other special features you can discover in Sakya Monastery.

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Mt. Everest and the highest Monastery in the World - Highlights of our China Trip

It is a holy mountain, a myth and the dream of many ambitious climbers. But even for non-mountaineers a view of Mt. Everest is an absolute highlight of a trip to China. Here you can find out where you come closest to the northern flank of Mt. Everest. You will also read where the highest monastery in the world is located and which highlights the trip to the Rongbuk Monastery has to offer.

Dratun Monastery

Built in the 7th century, the small monastery at 4,700 m above sea level, just behind the town of Saga, is a tranquil place. In the forecourt of the monastery there is a picture showing a lying demoness. Buddhist monasteries are painted on the demoness. The Dratun monastery is located at the left knee, the Jokhang temple at the heart of the figure.

Especially impressive, however, was the Chapel of the Protector, with two stuffed yetis (bears) and three stuffed wolves, which are supposed to support the fight against the demons.

Photography in Dratun Monastery

In Dratun, photography was also allowed inside the buildings. There are many mystical motifs, especially in the Chapel of the Protectors.

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Drive from Saga to Lake Manasarovar

We follow the road from Saga to Lake Manasarovar across the Tibetan plateau. Meanwhile we see herds of yaks and crooked wire fences that keep the yaks off the road. Behind the pass more and more sand dunes are spreading out. The landscape is barren, only a few tufts of grass grow between the stones and sand areas. In some places they try to stem the drift of the sand dunes with stones. Behind the sand dunes and the river Brahmaputra we can see in the distance the Annapurna massif as well as the Machupuchare and the Dhaulagiri. The landscape changes during the further drive to a wide grass steppe where nomads live and graze their flocks of sheep.

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Chiu Monastery on Lake Manasarovar

The Chiu Monastery is beautifully located near the holy lake Manasarovar on the top of a small conical mountain. Built in the 8th century, it was dedicated to King Songtsen Gampo, who introduced Buddhism to Tibet in the 7th century.

Hindus believe that anyone who bathes in Lake Manasarovar (Mapam Yumtso) is freed from his sins and also gains good karma. Unfortunately, the Chinese government has prohibited bathing in the lake since 2019. The reason given was the increasing pollution of the water.

Photography at Chiu Monastery

From the mountain you have a great view of the lake. In the distance rises the holy mountain Kailash. Around the monastery, you'll also have plenty of opportunities to take pictures of prayer flags, mani stones, and yak skulls piled up around the stupas.

We even had the opportunity to take pictures inside the prayer hall and chapel. Here you can sometimes see a footprint of Buddha, statues, murals, and bookshelves reaching up to the ceiling.

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Tashilhunpo Monastery

Tashilunpo Monastery was built in the 15th century by the first Dalai Lama. Today it is the seat of the Panchen Lama and home to about 600 monks. Tashilunpo also offers most of the religious activities in Tibet and runs its own agriculture for subsistence. After the destruction caused by the Cultural Revolution was repaired and the monastery was renovated, it is also considered one of the most beautiful monasteries in all of Tibet.

The monastery is spacious and has a beautiful interior square surrounded by two-story buildings. The main buildings are lined up in a line on the hill, looking down towards the entrance gate. A posted map leads to the most important places of the monastery. There are several temples to visit, as well as the prayer hall with adjacent chapels.

I found the red Maitreya Temple particularly impressive with the huge Buddha statue in the lotus position. This was built in 1914. It has a strong aura. 

The prayer hall, decorated with a golden roof, remained undamaged during the Cultural Revolution, as it was used as a storage room for food. Before the prayer hall was built here, it was a place where air burials were performed. Today many statues with the golden cap of the yellow caps can be seen in the hall. Believers pray in front of the entrance and prostrate themselves. Other believers, mostly women, hurry from sacrificial site to sacrificial site with their butter thermos flasks. There is pushing and shoving.

Between the Maitreya Temple and the prayer hall you can visit the tomb stupas of the Panchen Lama. The stupas were destroyed during the Cultural Revolution. For the 10th Panchen Lama a large golden stupa was newly erected. The remains of the stupas of the remaining Panchen Lamas were combined in a newly erected stupa.

Photography at Tashilhunpo Monastery

The prayer hall is the only place within the monastery buildings where photography is permitted for a fee. But with 150 Yuan it is disproportionately high.

But there are great photo motives during the Kora around Tashilhunpo Monastery, which I can highly recommend.

You can find the proper travel backpack, sun hat or a stylish outdoor shirt at Globetrotter*.

Kora around Tashilhunpo Monastery

A Kora around the grounds of Tashilunpo is extremely popular. We follow an approximately 3.5 km long pilgrimage path, which is lined with prayer wheels along almost its entire length. It leads up the hill behind the monastery, from where you have a great view over the city. In the shadow of the prayer wheels dogs and sheep doze. There is even water and food bowls for them under the prayer wheels.

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Ganden Monastery - a worthwhile Day Trip from Lhasa

About an hour's drive from Lhasa lies Ganden. Photogenically, it nestles against a mountain slope at an altitude of 4,300 metres. A narrow pilgrim path around the monastery brings you to breathtaking viewpoints over the Kyi-Chu Valley. A day trip from Lhasa to Ganden Monastery is even doubly worthwhile: in addition to the monastery and pilgrim path, which is well worth seeing, you will also receive good altitude training. For Ganden is at 4,300 metres over 600 metres higher than Lhasa. Here you can read what you can see during your visit to Ganden and where you can take the best photos  

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Drak Yerpa Rock Monastery near Lhasa

Since the rock monastery Drak Yerpa was founded in the 7th century, about 10,000 ascetics, monks and scholars have meditated in the caves. Among them were celebrities like Guru Rinpoche, Atisha and King Sogtsen Gampo. Drak Yerpa is one of the holiest rock monasteries in Tibet.

However, the caves were severely damaged during the Cultural Revolution and many statues were destroyed. Ruins of destroyed houses can still be seen. Some monks have since returned. However, their stay in the caves for meditation is now only allowed with prior permission from the government and is limited to 30 to 40 monks.

Drak Yerpa is beautifully situated on the mountain and is ideal for a day trip from Lhasa. Because of the location on the mountain and the many stairs it is strenuous but very worthwhile. There is a simple restaurant next to the parking lot, but the food is not very recommendable.

Photography in Drak Yerpa Rock Monastery

Photography in the different caves was allowed without additional fee. Nevertheless, the monastery is happy about donations.

Tip: On the way to Drak Yerpa is also worth a detour to the 3,980 m high and with Prayer flags hung Ngachen La.

Book Recommendations for Tibet

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books* about Tibet.

You can order these books at Amazon with a click on the pictures. If you buy a product via one of these affiliate links, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you.

Have you ever been to Tibet yourself and explored the monasteries on the roof of the world? How did you like it? Do you have any questions about my article or suggestions? If so, please write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Der Beitrag Klöster in Tibet – heilige Orte auf dem Dach der Welt erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

China, Tibet. Ganden Monastery is about an hour's drive from Lhasa. It nestles photogenic on a mountain slope at an altitude of 4,300 metres. Around the monastery a narrow pilgrim path takes you to breathtaking vantage points over the Kyi-Chu valley. A day trip from Lhasa to Ganden Monastery is even doubly worthwhile: Besides the monastery and pilgrim path worth seeing you get a good altitude training. Because Ganden is with 4.300 meters more than 600 meters higher than Lhasa. In my following article you can read what you can see during your visit to Ganden Monastery and where you can take the most beautiful photos.

Non-solicited, unpaid advertising. This article contains affiliate links*, marked with an asterisk.

A Visit to Ganden Monastery

In 1409 Tsongkhapa founded the monastery Ganden. It is one of the three large monasteries of the Gelug School in Tibetan Buddhism.

Before the Chinese Cultural Revolution, about 7,500 monks lived here. But during the Cultural Revolution the monastery was almost completely destroyed. Since the 1980s many temples, stupas and the burial chapel of the monastery founder Tsongkampo have been restored. The number of monks allowed to live here, however, is now limited by the government to 417 people.

A special feature of the Ganden monastery is that the head of the monastery is not the Dalai Lama. Instead, the head of the monastery is appointed. This usually happens between the ages of 60 and 70. The dark red walls of the tomb chapel of Tsongkampo are decorated with drawings of the 108 heads appointed so far. In the middle is the tomb stupa. In it the mummified Tsongkampo is supposed to sit in meditation position. The interior also contains food, incense, books and other offerings. The burial chapel was restored after the Cultural Revolution and is today an impressive place with a strong atmosphere. The nearby prayer hall has also been restored. On the floor above the prayer hall you can admire among other things 1,000 statues of the Tsongkampo in showcases. These are also reconstructions.

At the New Chapel there is a large statue of Siddharta Buddha to the right of the entrance. Opposite the entrance further statues are built into an artificial cave landscape. The scene resembles a stage set in a theatre. In addition, snow-covered mountains are depicted on which small plastic animals are draped. To the right of the entrance you can see the statue of the Lord of Compassion. He has the 1,000 eyes and hands so that he can help even more people. Despite his enlightenment, the Lord of Compassion did not enter Nirvana. Because from there he could not have helped other people any more.

The Pilgrim Path around the Ganden Monastery

The monastery is picturesquely situated at the top of the mountain Drog Riboche. Already from the car park you have a great view of the monastery complex.

Around the monastery a narrow pilgrim's path leads to breathtaking vantage points over the Kyi-Chu valley. Small bushes line the path. Most of them are decorated with book pages, prayer cards or coloured tufts of wool. White sky ladders painted on rock should also help believers to get closer to enlightenment. Here you will find many worthwhile photo motifs.

As we walked the Kora around the monastery of Ganden, we saw several vultures circling in the air. A nearby place for air burials attracts the birds. If you have a good telephoto lens with you, there might be good opportunities for a picture of a vulture. ergeben.

Early in the morning, the place for the air burials, however, is not on the regular pilgrim path. You should also leave your camera packed in your backpack at such places.

Photographing in Ganden Monastery

Photography is only permitted in outdoor areas. For a donation of 20 Yuan you can also take photos in the printing hall. Here are the shelves full of wooden artwork and printed book pages. You can also watch monks duplicating pages in the traditional way. Next to the printing house there is a small chapel. Here you can also take pictures for another 20 yuan.

By the way: You can perfectly combine your day trip from Lhasa to Ganden Monastery with a trip to Drak Yerpa Rock Monastery. kombinieren.

Long tested and much loved: my three companions on photo tours: the lightweight carbon tripod CT-5C I from Rollei*, the cleaning kit from Rollei*and my indestructible camera backpack, the camera backpack, the Flipside from Lowepro*.

Book Recommendations for Tibet

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books* about Tibet.

You can order these books at Amazon with a click on the pictures. If you buy a product via one of these affiliate links, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you.

Have you ever been to Ganden Monastery near Lhasa yourself? How did you like it? Do you have any questions about my article or suggestions? If so, please write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Here you come back to the main article Monasteries on the Roof of the World

Recommendations for further Reading

Mt. Everest and the highest Monastery in the World - Highlights of our China Trip

Barkhor in Lhasa - Pilgrimage and Shopping Mile

Der Beitrag Ganden Kloster – ein lohnenswerter Tagesausflug von Lhasa erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

China, Tibet. It's dark and cold. Only our mobile phone lamps illuminate the long, narrow corridor behind the large Sutrahalle. But in the light of our mobile phones we see thousands of books. They pile up to the ceiling. In my next article I'll tell you about the hidden library in Sakya Monastery. You'll also learn what other special features you can discover in Sakya Monastery.

Non-solicited, unpaid advertising. This article contains affiliate links*, marked with an asterisk.

The Sakya Monastery

The Sakya Monastery is the headquarters of the Sakyapa sect. It is also one of the largest schools of Tibetan Buddhism. The monastery was founded in 1073 during the 13th century was also Tibet's cultural and political center.

The river Drum divides the monastery into a northern area and a southern area which is about 200 years younger. Both areas were severely damaged during the Chinese Cultural Revolution. The northern monastery was almost completely destroyed. For this reason you can only visit the South Monastery at the moment.

The Mongolian architecture distinguishes the South Monastery from other monasteries you can see in Tibet. For example, it has a double defense wall, loopholes and corner towers. Also noteworthy is the two-storey Sutra Hall. With its inner courtyard it is also the largest such hall in Tibet. It can accommodate up to 7,000 people.

The hidden Library

Hidden behind a wall of the Sutrahalle is a cold, dark and yet extremely remarkable room. It is about 60 meters long and 10 meters high. On wooden shelves three metres deep, this room houses around 84,000 hand-written books. The oldest of these are over 1000 years old. All the books in the library survived the Cultural Revolution unscathed, as the entrance was sealed and untouched for several hundred years. At present, the texts written in Tibetan, Mongolian and Sanskrit are still being written by scientists.  

The books are only partly wrapped in silk scarves. The cold climate alone, at an altitude of 4280 m, protects the books from decay. But a very special book is kept in a glass showcase: it contains the teachings of the Buddha as well as records of his life. The book has impressive dimensions: two metres long, one metre wide and eighty centimetres thick. Its pages must therefore be turned with eight people. Eight people are also needed to carry it. It is about 700 years old. All its pages are written by hand in golden script.

To visit the library, however, you need an extra ticket. Photography was not possible here.

Long tested and much loved: my three companions on photo tours: the lightweight carbon tripod CT-5C I from Rollei*, the cleaning kit from Rollei*and my indestructible camera backpack, the camera backpack, the Flipside from Lowepro*.

The White Shell of Sakya Monastery

The Sakya Monastery contains important Buddha statues and paintings. It also houses many religious cult objects. The most sacred of these is the White Shell. For a small donation a monk blows into the shell and makes a mystical sound. As soon as the sound is heard, the person who made the donation can make a wish for himself or someone else.

The Hell Room at Sakya Monastery

A steep and long staircase leads to the upper part of the Sutra Hall of Sakya Monastery. A small room attracts special attention here. For wild figures, as murals or statues, can be found all over the unlit room. Even on the wooden columns supporting the roof beams, figures are painted on. It is the hell space. Here the demons of the underworld are tamed.

Book Recommendations for Tibet

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books* about Tibet.

You can order these books at Amazon with a click on the pictures. If you buy a product via one of these affiliate links, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you.

Have you ever been to Sakya Monastery yourself, maybe even to the hidden library? How did you like it? Do you have any questions about my article or suggestions? If so, please write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Recommendations for further Reading

Barkhor in Lhasa - Pilgrimage and Shopping Mile

Trekking around the Mount Kailash

Der Beitrag Tibet – die versteckte Bibliothek im Sakya Kloster erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Non-solicited, unpaid advertising. This article contains affiliate links*, marked with an asterisk.

View of Mt. Everest

This far and no further. At least not for ordinary tourists like us. If you want to get ahead here, you have to be a mountaineer and have a permit. Because the narrow road leads directly to Mt. Everest Basecamp. Unlike on the Nepalese side, the mountaineers on the Chinese side can drive up to the base camp by car. This is not only easier for the mountaineers, but also for those who later transport the empty oxygen bottles etc. away.

Here, where the road for tourists ends, only a memorial stone points to the base camp. It is 5200 meters above sea level. Thus about 200 meters higher than this memorial stone. It is a popular photo motif and is photographed almost as often as Mt. Everest itself.

The memorial stone for the surveying of Mt. Everest is also a popular location for a photo shoot. Here you can find stone pyramids, saddled yaks for a souvenir photo and of course souvenirs. There are many tourists from China here who photograph each other in front of Mt. Everest with China flags.

Mt. Everest (Tibetan: Chomolungma, which means goddess mother of the earth) is revered by Buddhists in Nepal and Tibet as a holy mountain. I found the sunset at Mt. Everest particularly adorable. The summit was still illuminated by orange evening light, even after the sun had disappeared behind the opposite mountains. Slowly the shadows were rising at the foot of Mt. Everest and a cold wind from the mountain came towards me.

You can find the right travel backpack, mountain boots and everything else you might need on the road at Globetrotter*.

The highest Monastery in the World - Rongbuk Monastery

Up here, on the roof of the world, is the Rongbuk Monastery. With a location at 4,980 meters, it is also the highest monastery in the world and one of the highest permanently populated places in the world. Moreover, it lies in a spectacular landscape at the foot of Mt. Everest and is an absolute highlight of a trip to China. From here it is only 8 kilometres up the valley to the base camp of the northern route of Mt. Everest.

Already in the 18th century some monks and nuns settled here in simple huts and caves. The Rongbuk monastery was only founded in 1902 and is therefore a rather young monastery. According to a legend, the founder of the monastery had previously lived as a hermit in a nearby cave. The animals were his friends and the yeti provided him with food during this time. After the monastery was founded in 1902, it was initially a supply base for the hermits living higher up the mountain. During his weddings up to 500 monks and nuns are said to have laid in the monastery.

But during the Chinese Cultural Revolution the Rongbuk Monastery was completely destroyed. In 1983 the reconstruction was started. Today only 30 to 60 monks and nuns live here.

The monks gather daily from 17 o'clock in the prayer hall, have tea, tsampa and pray. Shortly before 18 o'clock they begin then with singing, bells and drums. Guests are welcome.

Photographing in Rongbuk Monastery

Fortunately, photography was also allowed inside the monastery buildings. I can also recommend the pilgrim path around the monastery. From here you have a great view of Mt. Everest and can even photograph the Stupa of the monastery with Everest in the background.

Long tested and much loved: my three companions on photo tours: the lightweight carbon tripod CT-5C I from Rollei*, the cleaning kit from Rollei*and my indestructible camera backpack, the camera backpack, the Flipside from Lowepro*.

Scenic Drive from New Tingri to Rongbuk Monastery at Mt. Everest.

The road from New Tingri to Rongbuk Monastery on Mt Everest leads through spectacular mountain scenery. Shortly after passing the checkpoint, the road winds its way up to the Pang-La Pass at an altitude of 5,150 metres. Prayer flags fluttered around us. If the altitude hasn't already done it, then the view of the surrounding mountain peaks will take your breath away. From here you can see Mt Everest (8848 m) for the first time and other snow-covered 8,000 m peaks of the Himalayas: Makalu (8485 m), Lhotse (8516 m) and Cho Oyu (8188 m). Shortly below the pass, another viewpoint offers a great view of the mountain road. Similar to an endless snake, it runs down the mountain flank. At both vantage points, nomads have spread jewellery, souvenirs and prayer flags for sale. Right here I bought my favourite bracelet with imitation black and white Dzi stones.

For the last few kilometres to our night quarters we had to change to the green Ecobus. Our accomodation was a Camplager with nomad tents on about 5,000 meters height. We all slept in two spacious nomad tents, in the middle burned an oven and warmed the water for our tea. Due to the altitude, however, it was a somewhat restless night.

Continue from Rongbuk Monastery to Saga

The trip from Rongbuk Monastery to Saga was one of the most scenic we had on our trip. Again and again we had great views to the Himalaya Mountains, especially to the 8000m Cho Oyo and Shishapangma. To the left and right of the road herds of yak grazed, we saw wild donkeys, blue sheep, black-necked cranes and geese. A few kilometres before Old Tingri we even see a Buddah face in the rocks on our right. After about two thirds of the way we reached the holy Peikutso Lake, which is a bright blue in front of the brown mountain range. It is part of the Qomolangma National Nature Reserve. On the shore salt has deposited in some places because of the dryness. Afterwards it goes downhill towards Saga on a semi-finished road. But a half-finished detour is a big challenge for our and other buses.

Book Recommendations for Tibet

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books* about Tibet.

You can order these books at Amazon with a click on the pictures. If you buy a product via one of these affiliate links, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you.

Have you ever been to Mt. Everest yourself and visited the highest monastery in the world? How did you like it? Do you have any questions about my article or suggestions? If so, please write me a comment!

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Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love road trips as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about a Climbing Mount Kenya or about a road trip through Svaneti, with the high mountains of the Georgian Caucasus.

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Content

Barkhor - Pilgrim Path in old Lhasa
Ritual Prostrations
Evening at the Barkhor
Barkhor Square in front of Jokhang Temple
Photo Shooting in Tibetan Costumes
Jokhang Temple - holiest Temple in Tibet
Inside the Jokhang Temple

Barkhor - Pilgrim Path in old Lhasa

The Barkhor is the lifeline of old Lhasa. It is both a pilgrimage route and a shopping mile. At 800 meters it leads around the holy Jogkang Temple. Pilgrims circle the temple three times clockwise. In the cooler evening hours it resembles an ant trail. Nowhere else you come so close to old Lhasa as here. The atmosphere of the Barkhor is filled with a magic that I have experienced in few places so far. Its variety and liveliness, its people and its stories have fascinated me.

Shortly before reaching the bar gate we are stopped by a security check. Our backpacks are x-rayed, our passports and travel permit are checked. We are allowed to continue. Shortly afterwards we are caught by a stream of people. Monks and tourists, young and old, with or without a prayer drum in their hands. They all run past us clockwise. Especially believers walk the Kora, however, in a sequence of prostrations.

Tip 1: Take your passport and the travel permit with you. You will be checked at the entrances. Sometimes you are asked for the name of your hotel. The easiest way is to show the hotel a business card.

Tip 2: Take your time at Barkhor, watch and drift. This is the best way to capture the special atmosphere. Be open for everything you see and discover the special in the everyday moments right in front of your eyes.

Ritual Prostrations

The sequence of the prostrations is repeated with impressive precision: first the hands are folded, led over the head, then in front of the forehead and the throat. Now the actual bowing follows. The hands are supported on the floor. Both knees are padded with thick cushions. The hands are now pushed forward until the whole body touches the floor. For this, thick gloves or wooden plates are used. With these the hands glide as on small sleds over the asphalt. Then the forehead touches the ground and the hands are folded in front of the head. Many put down a small object at the foremost point reached, up to which they then run forward to begin a new prostration.   

Tip 3: Always walk clockwise along the Barkhor! Only the believers of the old Bon religion go counterclockwise.

Tip 4: Got hungry? Around the Barkhor and also in the side streets there are many restaurants with delicious Tibetan food and a view from the roof terrace. Try the Momos, which are dumplings with different fillings.

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Evening at the Barkhor

Especially in the evening hours you can experience a lively old Lhasa at Barkhor. It will be even more crowded than during the day. Even more pilgrims are on their way, circling the temple with a sequence of prostrations. Among them are even mothers with small children. Many young people meet and circle the temple together. During breaks, they sit on the floor and check their messages in the smartphone. Two older women walk in front of us. Slow and limping, their posture testifies to a life of hard physical work. I would love to hear their stories. Or what is the story of the two monks sitting on a bench behind the shields of two policemen drinking coffee next door? What is the story of the Han Chinese woman, dressed in a Tibetan costume, posing in front of the temple and having herself photographed?

There are so many impressions, emotions and questions that pelt into me. The dark sky and the lighting in the streets seem to make the atmosphere at Barkhor even more sacred than it already is during the day. Especially impressive is the large Barkhor Square in front of the Jokhang Temple. We have collected so many impressions here and it is hard to put them into words. The Barkhor and the Jokhang Temple have a magical attraction.

Tip 6: Every Tibetan should have made a pilgrimage to Jokhang Temple once in his life. The three times rounding of the temple along the Barkor and the ritual prostration in front of the entrance should protect against a bad rebirth. Especially many Tibetans visit Lhasa for the Saga-Dawa festival. They pray in front of the Jokhang temple and walk the Kora. During this time you can experience the diversity of Tibetan culture particularly intensively.

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Barkhor Square in front of Jokhang Temple

The atmosphere in front of the Jokhang Temple is moving. I remember the atmosphere in front of the Wailing Wall in Jerusalem at Christmas 2016, where people pray around the clock. In front of the entrance to the temple the faithful are doing prostrations. Many of them have brought mattresses especially for this purpose. Some of them start their circumnavigations from here, put on knee pads, aprons and gloves.

Tip 7: At dusk, when the big lanterns light up, it is particularly beautiful here and the light is great for taking pictures.

Between the believers, however, police can be seen again and again. Right and left at Barkhor Square there are policemen and emergency vehicles. After unrest in the Tibetan capital Lhasa, which began in March 2008, security checks were tightened here. Since 2009 there have been desperate self-immolations in protest. With their act of desperation they demanded freedom for Tibet and the return of His Holiness the Dalai Lama. In May 2012, two Tibetans set themselves on fire at Barkhor Square in Lhasa. One of them survived. In response, security measures in Lhasa were tightened. The streets in Lhasa were full of police and paramilitary forces. Chinese security forces immediately removed all traces of the incident.

Tip 8: A really nice Tibetan style hotel is the House of Shambala, close to the Barkhor. There is also a good selection of super delicious food here.

Photo Shooting in Tibetan Costumes

Souvenir shops, precious stones, clothes for monks, Tangkas and costumes. You can get everything in the shops at Barkhor. Costumes? You have read correctly. Alone along the Barkhor there are sixteen shops lending Tibetan costumes for photo shoots. And it's almost a familiar sight at the Barkhor: Chinese women can be photographed in traditional Tibetan costumes. The hair is elaborately styled and decorated with jewellery. In the hand they often hold a prayer wheel. An old woman with a weathered face walks the Kora around the holy Jogkang temple. While she turns her prayer wheel in her hand she mumbles incessantly "om mani padne hum". The Barkor lives from his contrasts. Worlds collide here. I would like to know what the old woman thinks about the Chinese woman in a Tibetan costume, in whose hand the prayer wheel becomes a photo accessory.

Is the costume just a funny tourist gag, in which the model and the photographer think nothing else of? Or is it a new way in which China hoists its national flag in Tibet and appropriates Tibetan culture? Do these photos suggest that Tibetan culture has always belonged to China? Or does the young generation have a serious interest in Tibetan culture? Unfortunately, my questions remained unanswered. 

Tip 9: The costumes are damn beautiful to look at. Both in real, and on the advertising photos with which the costume rental companies recruit customers. Take some time and have a look at them. Maybe you can take some pictures yourself.

Do you also like to take photos yourself? Then you will certainly like my article with photo tips for the Potala Palace. bestimmt gefallen.

Long tested and much loved: my three companions on photo tours: the lightweight carbon tripod CT-5C I from Rollei*, the cleaning kit from Rollei*and my indestructible camera backpack, the camera backpack, the Flipside from Lowepro*.

Jokhang Temple - holiest Temple in Tibet

The Jokhang Temple was built in the 7th century by King Songtsen Gampo and is therefore the oldest temple in Lhasa. It is also the holiest temple in Tibet and the center of Tibetan Buddhism. Its present appearance with the entrance and the golden roofs, however, the temple received only under the V. Dalai Lama in the 17th century.

In 1959, freedom fighters temporarily entrenched themselves in the Jokhang Temple, which was then fired upon. All religious ceremonies were forbidden during the Cultural Revolution between 1959 and 1972. During this time the temple was used as a cattle stable and therefore remained largely intact. In the upper rooms were the rooms of the Tibetan government.

Today the pilgrims pray at any time of the day in front of the temple. In the stone stoves in front of the main entrance smoke offerings from herbs are offered. The destroyed statues have been replaced in the meantime and since 1994 the Jokhang Temple even belongs to the world cultural heritage of UNESCO.

Inside the Jokhang Temple

After you have passed the main entrance, you will come to a forecourt, which in turn leads to the square in front of the actual temple. In the entrance of the temple, the temple guards are guarding every temple and public building in Buddhism. In the middle of the temple are mighty statues, in front of which are the prayer benches of the monks. Along the outer walls there are many small chapels. A special feature of the Jokhang temple is a huge three-dimensional mandala. Opposite the entrance, at the other end of the room, you can see the Buddha figure that Princess Wengcheng gave to the king as a wedding present.

Tip 10: No photos are allowed inside the temple. Photographs may only be taken in the outdoor areas and on the roof. After you have left the inner area, you can end your temple visit on the roof with a cool drink.

Book Recommendations for Tibet

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books* about Tibet.

You can order these books at Amazon with a click on the pictures. If you buy a product via one of these affiliate links, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you.

Have you ever been to Lhasa yourself and walked along the Barkhor? How did you like it? Do you have any questions about my article or suggestions? If so, please write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

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Recommendations for further Reading

Potala Palace in Lhasa - Photo Tips

On the roof of the world with the Lhasa Railway

Der Beitrag Barkhor in Lhasa – Pilgerweg und Shoppingmeile erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Non-solicited, unpaid advertising. This article contains affiliate links*, marked with an asterisk.

A mountain as a monastery

The mountain on which the citadel is enthroned is divided into three areas. At the bottom is the monastery complex. Of this, four temples are still well preserved and can be visited. In the middle part of the mountain, however, hundreds of residential caves were dug into the sandstone. Here the monks lived at that time. There are also ruins of houses here. Remains of clay walls form bizarre, labyrinthine structures. The caves were still inhabited until the 17th/18th century, even after the decay of the Guge Empire. Numerous narrow paths lead between the houses.

At about half the height of the mountain, you will find remains of the last building that was built during the time of the kingdom of Guge. However, the attackers, the Ladakhis, built it. This is recognizable by the completely different architectural style of the walls. In the 16th century Guge was conquered until here. However, the advance to the well protected fortress proved to be too difficult, so that the Ladakhis besieged the fortress from here.

Long tested and much loved: my three companions on photo tours: the lightweight carbon tripod CT-5C I from Rollei*, the cleaning kit from Rollei*and my indestructible camera backpack, the camera backpack, the Flipside from Lowepro*.

The royal Fortress of Tsaparang

The stairs and paths to the top of the mountain lead to the fortress. They are carved into the sandstone and sometimes run tunnel-like through the mountain. The fortress consists of three buildings: the Summer Palace, the Mandala Palace and one level below the Winter Palace. The Winter Palace is carved into the rock for better heat storage and has windows on only one side. From here there is also a secret escape tunnel. At the same time this tunnel secured the water supply in times of siege. Unfortunately the buildings were locked during our visit.

At the top there is a breathtaking view of the Sutlej valley. At the top there are countless prayer flags, which move up and down in the wind like waves. A magical place that I didn't want to leave anymore.

The White Temple of Tsaparang

The White Temple (Lhakhang Karpo), built in the 15th to 16th centuries, contains the oldest wall paintings of Tsaparang. They are also one of the few preserved works in the old Kashmir art style. This is particularly recognizable by the slender figures, narrow waists and long fingers. In addition to the murals, the White Temple also contains extremely impressive ceiling paintings and ornately decorated wooden columns. The temple is the most important temple in western Tibet. Before the Cultural Revolution it housed 22 statues. Today, however, only 10 figures, some of them badly damaged, can be seen. Among them are 7 of 16 Boddhisatva statues, as well as two protector statues at the entrance of the temple. These were reconstructed on the basis of old photographs. The Buddah figure and all other statues opposite the main entrance are missing. Instead, numerous holes can be seen on the wall in which the figures and the garlands surrounding them were previously anchored.

The Red Temple of Tsaparang

The Red Temple (Lhakhang Marpo) was built around 1470. However, the murals were painted shortly before the fall of the kingdom of Guge in about 1630. They show scenes from the construction of the temple and also from the life of Buddha. At the entrance you can see the Green and White Tara as well as eight Stupas. The latter symbolize the eight events in Buddha's life. As in the White Palace, the roof of the temple is supported by elaborate wooden columns and is also decorated with impressive ceiling paintings. Opposite the entrance all Buddah and Boddhisatva statues are destroyed. Their remains are piled up in the middle of the temple, the heads of the figures partly enthroned on the rubble heap.

Tips for the ascent to the Citadel

Plan at least half a day to visit the ruins of Tsaparang in the Kingdom of Guge. Even though Tsaparang is "only" about 3,800 m above sea level, the ascent is quite breathless. So take your time to stop by for a few more times (there are plenty of great photo opportunities). What's also important: on the way and above there are no possibilities to buy water. There are no toilets either.

Book Recommendations for Tibet

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books* about Tibet.

You can order these books at Amazon with a click on the pictures. If you buy a product via one of these affiliate links, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you.

Have you ever been to Western Tibet and visited the ruins of Tsaparang? How did you like it? Do you have any questions about my article or suggestions? If so, please write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Are you as fascinated by the mountains in Tibet as I am? Then you will like my two articles about a Trekking Tour around Mount Kailash or about the highest Monastery in the World at the Foot of Mount Everest..

Der Beitrag Das vergessene Königreich Guge – ein Besuch der Ruinen von Tsaparang erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

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Content

No Pictures!
A Memorial against Violence and Destruction?
Short History of the Kingdom of Guge
Ruins of Tsaparang
Tholing Monastery in Zanda
Approach - A long Way to Guge

No Pictures!

In the Red Temple of Tsaparang the light is dim, the atmosphere mystical. The sign that hung on one of the wooden pillars for the temple roof was clear: "No Pictures! I had already suspected it before. In most monasteries and temples in Tibet, photographing inside is not allowed. But sometimes it is allowed for a small fee of 10 to 20 yuan. I would have liked to pay them. After all, it also benefits the preservation of the monasteries. The temples of Tsaparang could well use this money for a future restoration.

A Memorial against Violence and Destruction?

The destruction of the Tibetan temples during the Cultural Revolution is still clearly visible in this part of Tibet. Because only three years earlier, in 2016, was it begun to partially remove the rubble. Fragments of the Buddha figures were stacked in the middle of the Red Temple. Broken heads balance on the tops of the stone mountains. On the walls hang body parts of destroyed figures and let me think of a massacre.

The White Temple also seems empty. Only a small part of the statues has been reconstructed so far. This makes the artistic murals even more effective. The combination of the art of the old high culture and the visible destruction from the years of the Cultural Revolution irritates and fascinates at the same time.

But perhaps something will soon change about this seclusion. The overland road to Zanda is constantly being extended, in Zanda itself roads are asphalted, the new buildings sprout like mushrooms from the ground. Many Han Chinese push forward to Zanda and open shops, hotels and restaurants. Meanwhile there are hotels and restaurants here, in the outermost Tibet, whose menus are only in Chinese. A new challenge for the old kingdom of Guge.

Of all the temples I have seen on my Tibet journey, the temples of Tsaparang have touched me the most. They were like a memorial against violence and destruction. I managed to get a photo from the outside into the interior of the Red Temple, which might give you a small impression of the place. I would have liked to show you more pictures, but instead of the photos this time the texts must let pictures develop before your eyes.

Short History of the forgotten Kingdom of Guge in western Tibet

The old kingdom of Guge, founded in the 11th century, is today partly in western Tibet and partly in India. Yeshe Ö, the king of Guge, sent the monk Rinchen Zangpro to India for studies. Rinchen Zangpro later became the key figure in the introduction of Buddhism in Tibet in the 11th century. He translated Sanskrit texts and built 108 monasteries. Among them also those of Thöling and Tsaparang. He had the famous wall paintings made by artists from Kashmir. Later, at the instigation of Rinchen Zangpro, the great Indian scholar Atisha was invited to Tibet. Rinchen Zangpro and Atisha created the basis for the 'second' and permanent spread of Buddhism in Tibet here in Guge.

In 1624, however, the Tibetan kingdom of Guge disintegrated after a siege by the Ladakhis. The king of Guge and his family were captured and taken to the capital of Ladakh. Guge then came under the rule of Ladakh and lost its importance as a cultural centre.

Ruins of Tsaparang

Tsaparang was the secular capital of the former kingdom of Guge in western Tibet. The seat of the king was at that time the citadel. This fortress from the 9th century is enthroned high up on a 200 meter high mountain. An ascent to the citadel is strenuous, but you will be rewarded with breathtaking views and insights into the history of western Tibet. Here you can read why a visit to the ruins of Tsaparang should definitely be on your to-do list for Tibet and what you can see here in the forgotten kingdom of Guge.

The Tholing Monastery in Zanda

The Tholing monastery from the 9th century is a Buddhist monastery. It was also the religious centre of the old kingdom of Guge. The monastery is famous for its partially preserved murals and has been on the monument list of the People's Republic of China since 1996. If you visit the forgotten kingdom of Guge in western Tibet, you should also visit Tholing Monastery. Here you can find out more about Tholing Monastery.

Approach - A long Way to Guge

The starting point for our visit to the ancient kingdom of Guge was the city of Zanda (3,760 m altitude). The city is located about 1.500 km west of Lhasa and 250 km southwest of Darchen. It was built next to Tholing Monastery and is now the new capital of western Tibet, consisting of a few shops, hotels, restaurants and two army bases. For the journey from Darchen you should plan best a whole day.

The journey first leads through a rarely visited nomadic region. After the last pass of 5.166 m altitude you have a panoramic view of the western Himalayas in Ladakh. Especially the viewpoint "Tibet Clay Forest of Zhada", a geopark, invites you to a stopover.

Over the centuries, wind and water have created a wild canyon landscape from the sand and loess soil, in which bizarre forms such as earth roll rise up. From a distance, the vertically towering rocks look like trees, hence the name "Clay Forest".

Then down the pass we take winding roads to the valley of the river Satluj. It is a real pleasure to drive along here, because behind every bend there are new and surprising views.

Book Recommendations for Tibet

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books* about Tibet.

You can order these books at Amazon with a click on the pictures. If you buy a product via one of these affiliate links, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you.

Have you yourself ever been to Western Tibet and seen the old kingdom of Guge? How did you like it? Do you have any questions about my article or suggestions? If so, please write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Are you as fascinated by the mountains in Tibet as I am? Then you will like my two articles about a Trekking Tour around Mount Kailash or about the highest Monastery in the World at the Foot of Mount Everest..

Der Beitrag Westtibet – das vergessene Königreich Guge erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Non-solicited, unpaid advertising. This article contains affiliate links*, marked with an asterisk.

Tholing Monastery looks back on a history of about 1000 years. As in many other Tibetan monasteries, it was closed down during the Cultural Revolution in 1966. The monastery suffered heavy damage during this time. Numerous buildings were destroyed, most of the statues were destroyed and the wall paintings were extensively damaged. Since then, however, many buildings have been reconstructed. But the work is still going on. The most important buildings you can visit here at the moment are:

• the main prayer hall (Dukhang), also called the Red Palace
• the White Chapel (Lhakhang Karpo)
• Yeshe Ö's Mandala Chapel (Nampar Lang Lhakhang), also called Golden Temple

Unfortunately, photography inside the temples is not allowed here either. Therefore there are only photos from the outside and descriptions of what I have seen inside

The main Prayer Hall of Tholing

The main prayer hall of the Tholing monastery was built in the 11th century. It dates back to about the same time as the temples in Tsaparang. The wall paintings of the hall suffered heavy damage during the Cultural Revolution. But the preserved works are still very impressive and fascinate by their variety and details. Among other things you can see pictures from the life of Buddha and Rinchen Zangpro. The strong influence of Kashmir and Nepal can be seen in the palm trees and Indian clothes. However, there is no agreement about the age of the murals. The information ranges from the 13th to the 16th century. To the left of the entrance three of the paintings were restored. However, the work was stopped again. In the middle of the prayer hall figures of the past, present and future Buddhas were placed in the 90s. The throne in front of the figures is from the year 2018 and is dedicated to the XIII Dalai Lama.

The White Chapel of Tholing

The White Chapel is 500 years old and only about half as old as the main prayer hall. The murals are from the 15th to 16th century. Many were destroyed by water damage or during the Cultural Revolution. They show male gods on one side and female Boddhisatvas on the other. To the right of the entrance a painting shows scenes of an air burial. Opposite the entrance there are also eight restored medical Buddhas. To their left and right are the White and the Green Tara.

The Golden Temple of Tholing

The Golden Temple is the holiest place in the entire monastery. It was also the main building of the entire monastery complex. During the Cultural Revolution it was badly damaged, the four lateral chapels, the two upper floors and all statues and paintings were destroyed. It houses the throne of Atisha and the throne of Rinchen Zangpro, the founder of the monastery. The raised floor in front of the thrones is then as now the place for Mandala sacrifices made of rice.

Book Recommendations for Tibet

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books* about Tibet.

You can order these books at Amazon with a click on the pictures. If you buy a product via one of these affiliate links, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you.

Have you ever been to Western Tibet and visited the monastery of Tholing? How did you like it? Do you have any questions about my article or suggestions? If so, please write me a comment!

Recommendations for further Reading

How Sunglasses opened my Eyes and made another's Eyes glow

Mt. Everest and the highest Monastery in the World - Highlights of our China Trip

Der Beitrag Das vergessene Königreich Guge – ein Besuch im Kloster Tholing erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

In my following article you will learn all kinds of interesting facts for your own Kora around the holy mountain. In addition to some useful recommendations for your packing list, I'll give you a few tips on how best to prepare for the dreaded pass at 5,630 m altitude.

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links.

Table of Contents and Quick Navigation

Saga-Dawa - Buddha's Birthday, Day of Enlightenment and Day of Death
Kailash - Tibet's holy Mountain and Throne of the Gods
Kora around the Kailash
The most difficult Pilgrimage Route in the World
Three Days Trekking around Kailash
Starting Point Darchen
First Stage: From Darchen to Dira-Puk Monastery
Tarboche
Second Stage: from Dira-Puk Monastery to Zutul-Puk Monastery
Ascent to the Drölma-La Pass
Descent from Drölma-La Pass
Third Stage: from Zutul-Puk Monastery back to Darchen
Accommodation
Getting there
Preparing for the Altitude
Altitude Training
Packing List
Epilog

Saga-Dawa - Buddha's Birthday, Day of Enlightenment and Day of Death

The Saga-Dawa is the most important religious festival in Tibet. During this time every year a whole month is celebrated. Usually this takes place in June and especially on the full moon day. More precisely, not only one special event is honored on this day, but three: Buddha's birthday, the day of his death and the day of his enlightenment under the Bodhi tree.

The ceremonies on the full moon day at Mount Kailash are undoubtedly the highlight of the Saga Dawa. But the festival is not only celebrated around the holy mountain. Also in other places believers put up butter lamps, beautify the monasteries and temples or produce sand mandalas.

Kailash - Tibet's holy Mountain and Throne of the Gods

The Kailash (Tibetan: Kang Rinpoche - Snow Jewel) is a snow-covered pyramid-shaped mountain rising from the Tibetan plateau. Its summit at 6,714 m has never been climbed before. When the Chinese government offered Reinholt Messner an ascent in the 80s, he refused. For the summit of the throne of the gods - as the mountain is also called in Tibet - is a religious taboo. Hindus and Buddhists as well as followers of the ancient Tibetan Bon and Jain religions worship it. Due to its special form and location, which identify the Kailash as Mount Meru, it is one of the most important spiritual places and forms the cosmogony's world mountain in the centre of the universe.

Every year about 25,000 pilgrims come to Darchen to walk the Kora around the holy mountain, i.e. to circumnavigate the mountain once. Because the journey to Kailash is for Tibetans like the Hajj to Mecca is for Muslims. Once in a lifetime every believer should have completed the pilgrimage.

Kora around the Kailash

The Saga-Dawa feast is a time to do meritorious things and show generosity. On this occasion many believers come to the Kailash to walk the Kora around the holy mountain. A Kora stands for one revolution of the wheel of life from birth to death. And whoever walks the Kora once around the holy mountain Kailash erases all the sins of his present life. In addition, twelve orbits erase the sins of earlier lives. Those who finally walk the Kora 108 times come directly to paradise (Nirvana). The number 108 is a holy number in Buddhism. Especially believing Tibetans circle the Kailash in a series of prostrations.

The most difficult Pilgrimage Route in the World

The 53 km long pilgrim's path around Kailash runs at an altitude of 4,650 to 5,630 metres. Due to its altitude, it is the most difficult pilgrimage route in the world. Not all of them make the circumnavigation, many have to turn back due to acute altitude sickness. Nevertheless, the altitude is not the only thing that makes trekking around the holy mountain a challenge. Especially steep ascents and descents with icy spots, gravel or mud require some skill on the second day of the Kora. Furthermore you should plan a weather change with storm and snowfall when choosing your equipment. Even in midsummer.

The Kora around the Kailash is usually divided into three stages and walked clockwise. Only the followers of the old Bön faith circle the Kailash counterclockwise.

• Darks to Dira-Puk Monastery (20 km, 5-6 hours, 5050 m)
• to Zutul-Puk Monastery (18 km, 6-8 hours, 4820 m)
• back to Darchen (14 km, 3-4 hours, 4670 m)

The pilgrimage route around the Kailash was closed during the Cultural Revolution. It was not until 1981 that the route was reopened. Since 1985 also western foreigners are allowed to walk the Kora around the holy mountain again, but only with a guide and the appropriate permit.

Three Days Trekking around Kailash

Starting Point Darchen

Darchen is the starting and finishing point for trekking around the holy mountain. Here we make our last preparations for the Kora. That means we buy provisions and our guide organizes porters for the luggage. One carrier will carry the luggage of two persons, but a maximum of 15 kg. For each carrier we pay 990 Yuan to the government. The government then pays the porters afterwards. We do not know how much the porters actually get from the 990 yuan.

In the evening before the full moon day there is an excited mood on the main street. Many people are on the way. The shops and street traders offer prayer flags in all sizes. Consequently, rolled up flags pile up in shelves, on tables, benches and even on the loading areas of delivery vans. Trekking poles, hiking poles, water canisters, cooking equipment and oxygen bottles are also available. And those who don't buy prayer flags at the moment can enjoy themselves at one of the open-air billiard tables.

By the way: If you don't feel fit enough to walk the Kora around the holy mountain yourself, you can rent a horse with a horseman here in Darchen. In 2019, a horse with a horseman cost 24,000 yuan for three days.

First Stage: From Darchen to Dira-Puk Monastery

For the Saga-Dawa festival a new flagpole (Tarboche) will be erected at the foot of the Kailash on full moon day. Already in the early morning the pilgrims from Darchen stream to the Tarboche. There is an exuberant atmosphere on the pilgrim path, greetings are given and selfies are made. Meanwhile on the neighbouring gravel road cars honk their horns to Tarboche and pull a wide dust flag behind them.

Most Tibetans are festively dressed with colorful chubas of colorful brocade and lots of jewelry, mainly turquoise. In addition, the women have woven colorful ribbons into their hair. Some of them then artfully placed the long braids around their heads. Many carry their prayer chains or prayer wheels in their hands and murmur prayers.

The pilgrimage begins north of Darchen. At first the path is lined with cairns and manisteins. After about an hour, you will reach a stupa decorated with prayer flags. Here is the first of four points for religious prostration. It is also the first point where the Kailash shows up. A good place for a break. The pilgrims pray, throw small blessings with the flying horse into the air or attach their prayer flags.

Tarboche

The Tarboche is about 7 km away from Darchen. This distance can either be covered within 2.5 hours on foot, or you can take the energy-saving Ecobus.

As we approach the Tarboche, we can already see the place for the flagpole from a distance. There a huge area has become a sea of prayer flags. On the way there traders offer prayer flags and blessings as well as food, drinks, jewellery and other souvenirs.

Suddenly we hear the crowd cheering in front of us. It is 10:30 am and the flagpole is hoisted. We see it only from a distance. But we also see that it suddenly no longer stands. Suddenly the mood is tense. No more photos may be taken. Normally it is allowed to take pictures here except for the police and the military. The cameras are checked by two passengers of our group, one even has to delete pictures. Our guide drives us in a hurry once clockwise around the Tarboche and then further along the pilgrim path. The second attempt to erect the mast we are not supposed to notice anymore. There is a simple reason for this: the Tibetans believe that it will bring bad luck if the mast falls down.

By the way: If you don't want to walk the complete 54 km around the Kailash, you can also walk the Kora here. Because 13 circles of the flagpole correspond to a Kora around the holy mountain.

Second Stage: from Dira-Puk Monastery to Zutul-Puk Monastery

That night it snowed. Now everything is covered with white icing sugar. More snow and wind are forecast for the afternoon. There are discussions in the group. Should we go or turn back? Finally we decide to go on and start at 7:15 am to the Drölma-La Pass. From now on it goes four hours uphill, up to 5,630 m altitude. Slowly the day awakes and first light bathes the mountain landscape in a great scenery. A woman with a baby on her back overtakes us, at the same time two children sprint past us. Meanwhile three believers move up the pass only with prostrations, over stones, through mud and snow. They wear thick gloves, padding on their knees and a padded apron. We overtake them and meanwhile have great respect. After two hours we take our first break in the heated tent, where we defrost our cold hands and feet.

Ascent to the Drölma-La Pass

After the break the way to the Drölma-La Pass becomes even steeper, so that I have to stop again and again and take a breather. During this time I see other exhausted pilgrims breathing from their oxygen bottles. On both sides of the way there are also many thrown away bottles. A woman is supported left and right and the pass is carried up rather than running herself. At this moment I am happy about my previous altitude training and the good altitude acclimatization we had before. Because up here the air has only about half the oxygen content as at sea level.

Shortly before the pass many prayer flags already hang. It is a stretch where pilgrims like to leave personal belongings. Besides shoes, bracelets and scarves we also find numerous sweets along the way. As soon as we arrive at the dreaded pass at 5,630 m altitude, there is great joy, selfies are made and prayer flags are hung up.

Descent from Drölma-La Pass

The way downhill is technically demanding. It is not only steep, but also smooth. Again and again we see pilgrims slipping. I am happy about my trekking poles, which give me stability on the icy spots. After my partner slipped, our Tibetan carrier intervenes: she gives one of my trekking poles to my partner, so that he has two, and takes me by the hand because I am smaller. I was really touched how she cared about our safety. She wouldn't let us out of her sight. And it really helped to support each other. Later I was well trained and was even able to help myself and support a Tibetan woman climbing.

We can already see the white supply tent from a distance. Shortly afterwards we warm up and fortify ourselves with tea and instant noodles. These are the only food in the tents. But while we almost wanted to rest on our laurels after crossing the pass, the weather outside has changed. The next three hours we are accompanied by frontal wind, snow and sleet. We were glad that the weather had not already changed at the pass and hurried to get to our accommodation. Afterwards our guide tells us that shortly after our departure in the morning no group of pilgrims left for the pass. Due to bad weather many pilgrims have turned around or waited a day.

Third Stage: from Zutul-Puk Monastery back to Darchen

In the morning the sun welcomes us again, there is snow and the first pilgrims set off. We have a typical Tibetan breakfast: Naan (Tibetan bread) with omelette.

Afterwards we visit the monastery and start to our last day of the Kora. The landscape is breathtaking, the way leads along a wide river. On the right side of the road manis stones are piled up and we pass the fourth point for prostrations.

After about three hours we recognize the place Darchen in the distance. The last kilometres lead through a dry area, which seems to please the whistling bunnies very much. The ground is littered with holes in which we see the cute little animals disappear again and again.

The closer we get to Darchen, the heavier my legs get. We slow down more and more, dally and take many photos. The last steps of our trekking around the Kailash lead us to lunch in the restaurant where our stay in Darchen started four days ago.

Accommodation

During the trekking around the Kailash we stayed overnight in simple guesthouses with dormitories. There was no electricity and no heating. The toilets were outside in separate toilet houses. In the nights it cooled down to below zero degrees. Since the duvets in the guesthouses were not very thick, I was happy about my own warm sleeping bag.

Getting there

Starting point for the trekking around the Kailash is usually the small village Darchen at 4.650 m altitude. It is the only settlement along the route. The journey to Darchen is by car or bus from Lhasa, about 1,200 km away, and leads over several passes over 5,000 m high. That sounds far at first, but it doesn't get boring at all. On the one hand you can visit several monasteries on the way, on the other hand you get a first altitude adjustment during the trip. And the latter you need for the trekking around the Kailash in any case.

Here you can learn more about the monasteriesyou can visit on the way from Lhasa to Darchen. And if you're in Lhasa before or after, you'll be interested in my articles about the Barkhor and the Potala Palace.

Preparing for the Altitude

A sobering fact: Even if you're in such good shape, it doesn't protect you from altitude sickness. Even endurance pros may not be able to stand the altitude. In contrast, people with low endurance do not have to suffer from altitude sickness. However, it helps a lot when hiking uphill if you are in good shape and have strong thighs. So you should try to bring along a physical fitness appropriate to the tour.

If you want to know more about altitude sickness, I can recommend a medical consultation. For example, the Berliner Centrum für Reise- und Tropenmedizin (BCRT, Berlin Centre for Travel and Tropical Medicine) also tests altitude fitness. For one hour, you breathe oxygen-reduced air simulating an altitude of 3,500 meters. Meanwhile, your pulse, blood pressure and oxygen content in the blood are regularly monitored. Based on this data, the doctor can then tell you how well and quickly your body adapts to the altitude. You can also get a prescription for Diamox (acetazolamide) against altitude sickness.

Altitude Training

If you want to prepare further, you can also do a so-called altitude training. However, it has little to do with actual training, because you only sit on a chair for one hour and breathe oxygen-reduced air. The training should be repeated at least five times and one or two weeks before your planned departure. At the end of my training, an altitude of 5,500 m was simulated - I already felt a clear effect there. And it was interesting to see how the oxygen content in my blood immediately increased again through deep and conscious breathing. That was very helpful in the real mountains.

In summary, here are the most important measures for the prevention of altitude sickness:

• Plan sufficient time for the altitude acclimatization and slowly gain altitude. Up to 500 m altitude gain per day above 2,500 m is recommended.
• If you can influence this: the sleeping places should be lower than the maximum reached during the day.
• Drink plenty of water, if necessary enrich the water with minerals.
• Pay attention to deep breathing
• Pack Ibuprofen and Diamox in the first-aid kit and use them responsibly

Since I had already had some bad altitude experiences during a trip in the Himalayas a few years earlier, I became more cautious. That's why I took a tablet of Diamox in the afternoon to prevent altitude sickness on the two days we stayed over 5,000 m above sea level. Unfortunately, a frequently observed side effect also occurred in the evening: the tingling in the hands.

Packing List

In the following I have listed a few things I didn't want to miss when trekking around the Kailash:

• 2 trekking poles
• Solid waterproof and shrunk trekking boots
• rain gear
• thermal underwear
• warm, waterproof gloves
• good sunglasses, preferably glacier goggles with side wind protection
• Sunscreen
• Lip care with UV protection
• Warm sleeping bag
• Handkerchiefs (also as toilet paper)
• Wet wipes as a replacement for a shower
• Head lamp
• Sufficiently charged replacement batteries for the camera (does not expect power in the inns)
• Possible power station for mobile phone
• Snacks, e.g. dried fruits, nuts, chocolate bars
• Thermoskanne und Teebeutel, ggf. Instantkaffee. In den Verpflegungszelten und den Gasthäusern könnt ihr kostenlos heißes Wasser bekommen.
• Ibuprofen for high altitude headaches
• Throat candies and sea salt nasal spray if you have sensitive mucous membranes. They dry out quickly due to the high altitude air.

Long tested and much loved: my three companions on photo tours: the lightweight carbon tripod CT-5C I from Rollei*, the cleaning kit from Rollei*and my indestructible camera backpack, the camera backpack, the Flipside from Lowepro*.

Epilog

With the trekking around the Kailash, have I now got rid of all the sins of my life, as the Buddhists and Hindis believe? Maybe I am a little closer to enlightenment? Or did I only take sore muscles from the Kora with me? Now that I'm back in Darchen at a pleasant 4,650 m above sea level, even the slightest effort still takes my breath away. So I ask myself afterwards how I made it over the 5,630 m high pass. The night before I had slept only about one hour. In the morning after breakfast I told my partner that my energy level was close to zero.

It was still dark. Completely overtired I adjusted my trekking poles to the right length. Suddenly a person from the group started the discussion whether we should not turn back. She did not feel up to the conditions. Then it became clear to me how much I at least wanted to try the pass crossing. We can still turn back. I was very grateful to our guide, who encouraged everyone and assured our comrade-in-arms to stay by her side and support her if necessary. Shortly afterwards our small group set off. And everyone arrived safe and sound.

On the tour I learned a lot about myself, about my mobilizable energy reserves and my own limits. Especially how to reach a seemingly distant goal in small, continuous steps (here even literally). The conscious concentration on only the next step helped mr a lot. And despite all my efforts I had a happy smile on my face the whole time. And that evening a new wish took root in my head: to tackle my first 6,000 and then a 7,000.

Book Recommendations for Tibet

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books* about Tibet.

You can order these books at Amazon with a click on the pictures. If you buy a product via one of these affiliate links, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you.

Have you ever been to Tibet yourself and circumnavigated Mt. Kailash? How did you like it? Do you have any questions about my article or suggestions? If so, please write me a comment!

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Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love road trips as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about a Climbing Mount Kenya or about a road trip through Svaneti, with the high mountains of the Georgian Caucasus.

Der Beitrag Trekking um den Mount Kailash erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.