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Roadtrip Russia & Baltic States - Route, Highlights and Pitches
Our Motorhome "Arwak" - the Iveco 40/10 WM
By Ferry from Travemünde to Helsinki
21 Highlights for your Road Trip in Russia & Baltic States
Allgemeine Tipps für euren Roadtrip

Roadtrip Russia & Baltic States - Route, Highlights and Pitches

Why a road trip on the Baltic Sea? Well, the Baltic Sea begins almost at the gates of Berlin. The journey is short. After about 4 hours by car, we finally get on the ferry and the journey begins. A journey through six countries with varied landscapes, diverse culture, interesting history and friendly people.

We have covered a distance of about 4,500 kilometres in 30 days. So about 160 kilometres a day. Sometimes more sometimes less. In some places we also stayed 2 or 3 days. In the map I marked our places for the night and our route. You can also see many little hearts on the map - these are the highlights of our road trip in Russia & Baltic States, which I describe in the following.

Our Motorhome "Arwak" - the Iveco 40/10 WM

It never gets boring on a road trip. So also this time: Already on the second day we noticed a hole in the exhaust. First we tried to repair it with an exhaust kit. But it got bigger and bigger. One day later we improvised in the Russian way: From the roadside we collected empty beverage cans. We cut off the bottom and lid so that we had flat metal sheets. Then we wrapped six pieces of it around the meanwhile about 5 cm long crack in our exhaust pipe. Finally we fixed the whole thing with two hose clamps. The remainders of the exhaust putty also glued everything from below. We also made another suspension for the front part of the exhaust. Done!

In the meantime "Arwak" has a new exhaust. Do you want to know more about our Iveco 40/10 WM? Then look here, he has his own page.

If you don't have your own camper, you can find the right van for your road trip at Paul Camper*.

By Ferry from Travemünde to Helsinki

A road trip around the whole Baltic Sea is long. With a detour to the White Sea about 6,000 kilometres. With an average of 160 kilometres a day, you would need about 5.5 weeks. But for most of us the possible summer holiday is shorter. We had four weeks. A trip around the Baltic Sea including a detour to Russia was therefore out of the question for us. Good that there is a shortcut.

Crossing with Finnlines from Travemünde to Helsinki:
Costs: for e.g. two persons with camper in high season without cabin about 557 Euro. With double cabin about 719 Euro.
Times: All year round; departure depending upon weekday between 2:00 and 3:30 o'clock, arrival after 29 hours at 9:00 or 9:30 o'clock.
Click here to go to the Finnlines website with the current timetables and costs.

Check-in opens at 21:00 and closes two hours before departure. However, the boarding does not start until about 23:30. Vehicles higher than 2.10 metres will be parked on another deck and therefore loaded later. For passengers with higher vehicles it is therefore recommended to arrive at the check-in only around 23:00 hrs. Here you can also find more information about a ferry trip by motorhome at Finnlines .

21 Highlights for your Road Trip in Russia & Baltic States

#1 Relaxed Start - Suomenlinna near Helsinki

After 29 hours of ferry travel we arrive in Helsinki in the morning. The whole day still lies ahead of us. We want to explore Helsinki. But at the same time we want to take it easy. Therefore we decide first of all for an excursion to the archipelago islands of Suomenlinna.

Suomenlinna is a fortress from the 18th centuryIt is located on several connected islands just off Helsinki. The complex comprises around 200 buildings on a total of 80 hectares and is also a prime example of military and fortress architecture. Suomenlinna was used for military purposes until 1973. Today, however, only one island is reserved for the military school. The rest can be visited.

There is an information centre, two museums, a gallery and several cafés, restaurants and souvenir shops. In the information centre at the ferry pier you can get a map with which you can move around the islands on your own. In this map, for example, a 1.5 kilometre long main route is recommended. The route includes all important sights. Information boards inform you about the sights and their history.

The UNESCO World Heritage Site Suomenlinna is one of the most popular destinations near Helsinki. The islands can be reached within 15 minutes by public ferry. In summer, the ferry departs every 15 to 20 minutes directly from Kauppatori square. You can also find more information on the website of Suomenlinna.

#2 Porvoo - charming Fishing Village with colourful wooden Houses

The small town of Porvoo is famous for its rust-red wooden houses on the banks of the river Porvoonjoki. They date back to the 18th century and were formerly used as salt storages. Porvoo's beautiful old town with its narrow streets, charming cafés and boutiques invites you to stroll and linger. The colourful Scandinavian wooden houses are lovingly decorated and everything looks a bit like an open air museum. Porvoo is the second oldest town in Finland after Turku and was also an important trading town as early as the 13th century. Most of the buildings in the old town are not quite as old, because a fire in 1760 burned down most of them.  

High above the old town is the cathedral from the 15th century. It is the episcopal church of the Lutheran Protestant diocese of Borgå and also the landmark of Porvoo. In 2006, however, the cathedral was severely damaged by fire. While the wooden roof burned down almost completely, the interior of the cathedral has been largely preserved.

Porvoo is only 50 kilometers from Helsinki. The pretty little town is therefore one of the most popular destinations for day trips from the capital. We also came from Helsinki and stayed at the nearby camping site "Sun Camping". Afterwards we went on to the lake district in the direction of Savonlinna.

#3 Lake District in Finland - lots of Water and even more Mosquitoes

There are about 470 kilometres between Helsinki and the border crossing to Russia at Niirala. Most of the route runs through the famous Finnish Lake District - the largest lake district in Europe. A labyrinth of lakes, rivers, islands, moors and dense forests extends over more than 100,000 km². We particularly enjoyed two of our stopovers on our way across the Finnish Lake District: The village of Savonlinna with the medieval castle Olavinlinna and the oversized wooden church of Kerimäki.

Olavinlinna was completed in 1475 and is considered the best preserved medieval castle in Northern Europe. It is situated in the middle of the Saimaa lake system on a small island and can therefore only be reached by a pontoon bridge. However, to allow larger ships to pass, the Poton Bridge can be folded to the side.

The church of Kerimäki is the largest wooden church in the world. The neoclassical domed church was completed in 1847 after three years of construction. It can hold up to 5,000 people, with seating for 3,400 of them. The pews have an unimaginable total length of over 1.6 kilometres. The parish last had 5,526 inhabitants - so the church seems a little oversized.

At a resting place at a little frequented country road we found a nice place for the night. But when we came to rest after a long day, the mosquitoes became lively. So in the evening we could only go outside with long clothes and armed with insect spray.

But even if the mosquitoes were bothering us - we would have liked to spend more time here. And at that time we didn't know that there were many more mosquitoes on the Solovetskie Islands in Russia - one of our next stops.

#4 Petrozavodsk - Welcome to Russia!

Petrozavodsk is for many people only the starting point for trips to the open-air museum Kischi. But for us the city itself was a highlight on our road trip Russia & Baltic States. We especially liked the shore promenade at Lake Onega - the second largest freshwater lake in Europe. The promenade is surrounded by an attractive park area and therefore perfect for a walk. You can see various sculptures, for example the Silver Fishermen casting a net. And if you like it a bit more sporty: the park is equipped with a public fitness area - here people train hard.

Petrozavodsk means translated as "Peter Works". It refers to the iron and cannon factory which Peter the Great had built here in 1703 and thus founded Petrozavodsk. However, the plant was replaced 70 years later by the Alexandrovsky Steelworks. A statue of Peter the Great points with his finger to the place where Petrozavodsk was founded. The monument was unveiled in 1873 to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the Alexandrovsky Steelworks. Since 1978, however, the monument has stood on the shore of Lake Onega near the pier.

Guided tours as well as tours on your own initiative can be found here. Petrozavodsk also has beautiful examples of neoclassical architecture, e.g. the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral or the Musical Theatre of Karelia. You can also see a large statue of Lenin from 1933 in Central Lenin Square.

Pitch for the Night

We stayed at Nord Camping for three nights. The small cosy camping site is only a five minute walk from the boat landing stage and is equipped with everything you need.

Ideas for your next Road Trip

Are you looking for ideas and inspiration for your next road trip or for your camping stove? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books at Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you and you do me a huge favor.

#5 With the "Raketa" to the Open Air Museum Kischi with Karelian Wood Architecture

The open-air museum Kischi is the most famous of its kind in Russia. Already since 1951, historical wooden buildings from all over Karelia have been brought here: houses, chapels and even windmills. In 1966 Kischi became an official open-air museum, and since 1990 it has even been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It displays 80 unique examples of Karelian wooden architecture, such as churches from the 17th and 18th centuries.

The most beautiful and also most famous building in Kischi is the Church of the Transfiguration of Christ, completed in 1714. Its roof is decorated with 22 onion-shaped domes. A few years later the heated winter church was built next to it. However, it is smaller than the summer church and has only 8 domes. The churches also have a separate bell tower.

The excursion to the open-air museum Kischi was one of the most impressive highlights on our road trip Russia & Baltic States. Because just the trip with the hydrofoil "Raketa" was a lot of fun. The Russian "Raketa" was produced in the Soviet Union from 1956. Altogether more than 400 boats of this type were built at that time. The Raketa is 27 meters long and 5 meters wide. It offers space for 60 to 65 people and reaches a speed of up to 58 km/h. When sailing, it lifts itself out of the water and glides on its wings. The draft then changes from 1.8 metres to about 1.1 metres. (Source: Wikipedia)

Directions to get there: From Petrozavodsk, hydrofoils leave from May to October up to five times a day. It takes about 75 minutes to reach Kishi. You can buy tickets directly at the boat landing stage. In winter, hovercraft crossings are offered.

#6 Solowezki Islands - moving History and Beluga Whales

In the White Sea, about 160 km south of the Arctic Circle, lies a group of islands with a moving history. Why the Solowezki Islands are worth a visit and what is worth seeing on the islands, you can read in my separate article Solowezki Islands - Sightseeing and Travel Tips. This unusual destination welcomes you with a great subarctic nature and Russian hospitality. And with a little luck you might even be able to watch Beluga whales.

The calm shallow water in front of the Solowezki Islands is also the nursery of the Beluga Whales. Because in summer they come here to give birth and raise their young. How you can get to the Beluga Cape lookout point on your own and what you have to consider when doing so, you can read in my separate article about the Beluga Whales of the Solowezki Islands. The tour to the Beluga Whales was my personal highlight on our road trip in Russia & Baltic States. Because we became witnesses of a whale birth. And this on my own birthday!

Pitch for the Night

The Prichal Tourist Centre is located directly at the ferry pier. There are bungalows, a restaurant and a guarded parking lot, which can also be used as a camping site. We have also reserved our ferry tickets to the Solowezki Islands in advance by email via the tourist centre.

#7 St. Petersburg - Our Highlights for 3 Days

After we spent the last ten days completely relaxed in extensive Karelia, action was now on the agenda. The journey to St. Petersburg on the E105 alone was exciting. Because the traffic was getting denser. And the Russian driving style became a challenge. As our camper is not the fastest - its travel speed is about 80 km/h - we were constantly overtaken. The overtaker did not always pay attention to the oncoming traffic. For us it continued on the side-strip - fortunately it was asphalted. So a two-lane country road became a three-lane one. We were very happy when we finally arrived at our campsite in St. Petersburg.

After a short break we went on. Because during our 3-day stay in St. Petersburg we wanted to see as much as possible. Here are our favourites:

Hermitage - the Classic in St. Petersburg

For a visit to the world-famous Hermitage you should plan at least half a day. And even then you must limit yourself to the most interesting rooms. However, the Hermitage provides a great tool for planning your visit: the Trip Planner. With it you can plan your own personal tour in advance. There are also guided tours and audio guides in several languages. To avoid the long queues at the ticket offices, you should buy online tickets in advance. And by the way: photography is allowed in the permanent exhibition of the museum, but only without flash and tripod.

Kazan Cathedral

The queuing was worth it! Because when we entered the Kazan Cathedral, a service was just being held in one wing. The faithful stood in front of the altar, reciting verses with the priest and crossing themselves again and again. Meanwhile, the interior of the cathedral was filled with an impressive, almost mystical atmosphere.

But even without a ceremony, the Kazan Cathedral is a highlight in St. Petersburg that you should definitely visit. The Russian-orthodox sacral building was built from 1801 to 1811 after the model of the Roman St. Peter's Cathedral and is the second biggest church of the city. It is also one of the most imposing buildings of St. Petersburg and is located directly at the Nevsky Prospect. The entrance is free of charge.

Arctic and Antarctic Museum St. Petersburg

The Arctic and Antarctic Museum is my favourite museum in St. Petersburg. The exhibition is impressively extensive and also in a very unusual location: the former Nikolauskirche. The museum was one of my highlights during our whole road trip Russia & Baltic States. Therefore I wrote a separate article about the Arctic and Antarctic Museum in St. Petersburg .

Church of the Savior on Blood

The colourful cathedral on the Griboyedov Canal has several names. Officially, however, it is called the Cathedral of the Resurrection of Christi. But more often it is called Church of the Savior on Blood. Because it was built over the blood stain by Tsar Alexander II, who was the victim of a deadly assassination attempt here in 1881 on his way to the Winter Palace.

With its Old Russian architectural style, it is reminiscent of the St. Basil's Cathedral on the Red Square in Moscow. It provocatively stands out from the cityscape of St. Petersburg - a city that was then absorbed by Western classicism. During the Soviet era, the church served as a warehouse for potatoes or theatre backdrops (depending on the source of information).

The Church of the Savior on Blood is already an eye-catcher from the outside. But from the inside it almost makes you marvel even more. Because on an area of 7000 m² the Blutskirche is decorated with the most beautiful mosaics. In the cathedral there is also a decorated shrine with the cobblestones on which Alexander II died.

Peter and Paul Fortress

The Peter and Paul Fortress is located on a small island in the Neva and is only accessible via two bridges. On the island there are, beside the worth seeing Peter-Paul-Cathedral, many other museums, for example the Museum of Space History or the Museum of Instruments of Torture.

The Peter-Paul-Cathedral from 1733 is the oldest cathedral of the city and also the highest building in the city centre. The long golden tower top is also one of the landmarks of St. Petersburg. From the viewing platform you have a great view over the fortress. Inside, the cathedral is adorned with coloured marble columns, crystal chandeliers and gilded icons. It also houses the shrines of the Romanov tsars.

Cathedral of Saint Isaac

St. Isaac's Cathedral is the most magnificent church in St. Petersburg. It was completed in 1858 after 40 years of construction and is one of the largest sacred domed buildings in the world. With its huge golden dome, the cathedral is also the second tallest building in the city centre. From up here you have a fantastic view over the city. The view is especially beautiful in the evening hours, when the golden domes of the city shine even more golden.

Pitch for the Night

We have stayed in the camping area of the motel «Елизар» (Elizar). This is a fully equipped, fenced-in area next to the hotel. There is even a laundry service. The nearest subway "Elizarovskaya" is only a three minute walk away. Tip: Many more parking lots for a road trip in Russia can also be found at the Baikalsprinter.

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#8 Amber Room in the Catherine Palace

The legendary Amber Room is still missing today. Many clues as to the whereabouts of the "Eighth Wonder of the World" have led nowhere. But since 2003, the Amber Room has been reconstructed in the Catherine Palace true to the original. It is admirable - a real masterpiece and also one of the highlights on our road trip Russia & Baltic States.

The Amber Room was made at the beginning of the 18th century for the Charlottenburg Palace in Berlin. It was a room with amber wall panelling and furniture. Later on it was installed in the Berlin City Palace. However, shortly afterwards, in 1716, the Prussian King Friedrich Wilhem I gave the Amber Room to the Russian Tsar Peter the Great. After it had been built in the Winter Palace in St. Petersburg, it was finally moved to the Catherine Palace in Tsarskoe Selo in 1755. During the Second World War it was brought to the Königsberg Palace by the Germans as spoils of war. However, when the bombing raids on Königsberg began in 1944, the Amber Room was removed and stored. Since 1945 it has been missing.

"Tsarskoe Selo" in English "Tsar village" is located about 25 km south of St. Petersburg. The Catherine Palace from 1752 with its Amber Room is the main attraction here. But also the rest of the palace, the park with further buildings, ponds, flower beds and small bridges is worth seeing. But be prepared for long queues.

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#9 Medieval Flair & Sea Museum in Tallinn

Medieval Tallinn

Tallinn is considered the best preserved medieval city in Northern Europe. Narrow cobblestone streets are lined with historic merchant houses, barns and warehouses. In between, towers of Gothic churches tower and offer spectacular views. The medieval flair of the old town is enchanting and invites you to go on discovery tours. And you can do these tours comfortably on foot, because many sights are very close together. How about a medieval menu in an authentic atmosphere afterwards? Around the Rathausplatz you are spoilt for choice. But we especially liked the Old Hanseatic Restaurant Packhaus .

The Maritime Museum in the former Seaplane Port

There are many interesting museums in Tallinn. But there is one you should not miss: The Estonian Maritime Museum. The Sea Museum is worth seeing just because of its location in the former sea airport.

Since 1981, the headquarters of the Tallinn Sea Museum have been located in the Dicken Margarethe, a cannon tower of the old city fortifications. Here around 700 exhibits on the history of shipping, maritime trade, fishing and other topics are on display. You can also view some models of ships. However, the large ships are located in a branch of the museum: the historic seaplane hangar in Lennusadam.

Construction of the seaplane hangar began in 1912 under the command of Tsar Nicholas II. The hangar is unique because of its architecture: it was the first time that such large reinforced concrete domes were built without additional supporting columns. During the Soviet era, the hangar was used by the Russian military. After Estonia's independence, the building was first converted into a warehouse. In 2010 the conversion to a museum was finally started. About two years later, in May 2012, the hangar was opened for visitors.

On an exhibition area of 6.500 m² you can see about 200 ships. Among them are the submarine "Lembit" from the 1930s, the icebreaker "Suur Tõll" and the wreck of the ship "Maasilinn", one of the oldest wrecks in Estonia. Sailing boats, historical ships and a wide range of marine equipment are also on display.

Address:
Fat Margaret: Pikk 70
Seaplane hangar: Vesilennuki 6
Opening hours:
May-September: Mon-Sun from 10am - 7pm;
October-April: Tues-Sun from 10am - 6pm
Admission fee:
Fat Margarethe and hangar: adults 20 euros; children 10 euros.
Hangar only: adults 15 Euro; children 8 Euro

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#10 Bogs of Estonia

A hike through a raised bog is surprisingly varied. At first sight the wide landscape seems empty. But if you take a closer look, you will discover a colourful diversity of species. And most of the time already right next to the wooden plank path. Why the Soomaa moor was one of the highlights of our Baltic road trip, you can read in my separate article Off to the Bog! - Tips for your Visit to Soomaa Bog. I also give you tips for your visit to the Soomaa Bog and tell you why you should definitely take a mud bath here.

#11 Riga - Capital of Art Nouveau

The capital of Latvia is famous for its Art Nouveau buildings. And rightly so! Because there are many of them and many of them are really beautiful. There is always something new to discover at the richly decorated buildings. Mystical figures decorate the facades, others support the balconies. There are also numerous decorated columns, undulating lines of plants, flowers, masks and other abstract elements.

Many art nouveau buildings are located in the Albertastraße. The beautifully decorated buildings were built between 1901 and 1908. 12 Albertastraße is also home to the Riga Art Nouveau Museum visit. A magnificent spiral staircase will take you up to the museum rooms with authentic furnishings dating back to 1903. If you are interested in architecture, then an Art Nouveau city tour with a guide** may be just the thing for you.

What else is there to see in Riga? The entire historical centre of Riga is listed as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site and is well worth a visit. In the very well-preserved Old Town of Riga, you will find not only Art Nouveau buildings but also medieval buildings and beautiful examples of 19th century wooden architecture.

Pitch for the Night

We stayed for two nights at the Riga City campground. From here you can walk about 35 minutes to the historical city centre. The place was big, full, but well organized.

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#12 Jūrmala - Luxury and Lost Places

Jūrmala is a seaside resort on the Gulf of Riga and the only official spa resort in the country. It is only about 40 kilometres from the city centre of Riga to one of the most beautiful sandy beaches in the Baltic States. This fine sandy beach, the dunes and cozy pine forests have attracted many guests already at the beginning of the 20th century. During this time, wealthy people from Riga and Moscow built their summer houses here - colourful Art Nouveau villas made of wood with turrets and elaborate facades. You can get an overview of the most beautiful Art Nouveau buildings here. There are said to be a total of 4,000 houses. Many of them are also listed as historical monuments. However, some of them are run-down and abandoned. But also these houses are witnesses of the pomp and luxury that filled Jūrmala at that time. Later, during the Soviet era, up to 300,000 visitors came to Jūrmala every year and large, ostentatious sanatoriums were built.

But the rapid development of tourism in Jurmala also had its downsides: The water quality became worse and worse. In the 80s, swimming in front of Jūrmala was finally no longer possible. Fortunately, however, this has changed again. Since 2001, the "Blue Flag" - the quality mark for water quality - has been flying on the beach at Jūrmala. But what has not changed until today: Strolling, going out and enjoying are still the top priorities in Jūrmala.

The former bathhouse of Emilija Racene was built directly on the beach at the beginning of the 20th century. Throughout the year, warm sea water, carbon dioxide, oxygen and pine extract baths were offered here daily. During the Soviet era, the building housed the best equipped spa clinics in Jurmala.

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#13 Blue Cows in the Engures Ezers Nature Reserve

It is said that blue cows live in the Engures Ezers nature reserve. At first we thought this was an error in translation. But then we found more clues about these mysterious animals in other places. Legends tell that the first seven blue cows came out of the sea at full moon. So let's go!

On the west coast of the Riga Bay is the nature reserve Engures Ezers. This consists mainly of a shallow lagoon lake, separated from the sea by a dune up to 2.5 kilometres wide. The lake is also densely overgrown with reeds. Wooden plank paths lead you over wet meadows to the shore. The meadows are an important nesting and resting place for waders and water birds during migration. From a birdwatching tower you have a wide view over the landscape. And if you are lucky, you might see a rare bird, such as a corncrake, an eagle owl or a sea eagle. The fact that this tower is well visited is also known by the free running Polski and Konik horses. They are supposed to keep the vegetation short and thus prevent scrub encroachment. But they prefer to eat apples and carrots brought by the visitors rather than grass.

Tip: The orchid trail
The orchid trail leads you over 3.5 kilometres through bog and forest to the lakeside. It starts near the Engure Centre for Ornithological Research. The best time for a hike is from the end of June to mid July.

And the blue cows? I could not see a blue shimmer in their fur, but the "Latvian Blue" with its blue-grey fur does exist. But today there are only about 1240 animals left. An association takes care of the preservation of this endangered species.

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#14 Cape Kolka - National Park & Relicts of the Soviet Era

Cape Kolka is the northernmost point of the Kurland Peninsula and separates the Gulf of Riga from the Baltic Sea. During the Soviet era, Cape Kolka was a restricted military area. Because from here the Swedish coast is particularly close and the escape to the west was therefore particularly obvious. Watchtowers were built to prevent this. In the fishing village of Mazirbe fishing was also forbidden and boats were dragged into the forest. The boat graveyard and several watchtowers can still be seen today. You can read more about these relics from the Soviet era here.

After the withdrawal of the Soviets, the area was finally designated as the National Park Slītere in 2000. The national park comprises 163.6 km² of land and 101.3 km² of water. The landscape is varied, but wooded dunes and swampy areas dominate. The different habitats lead to a high diversity of species. Among them are rare species such as the european pond turtle, sea eagle, black stork, wolf and lynx. In addition, 125 bird species breed in the national park. The Cape is also an important resting place during bird migration with up to 50,000 migrating birds per day.

Tip: At Cape Kolka you can watch the sunrise as well as the sunset over the sea. 

#15 Bunkeranlage “The Northern Forts” bei Liepāja in Lettland

Since 1890 the port in Liepāja was an important naval location and base of the Russian Baltic Sea fleet. To protect the port from enemy attacks, elaborate fortifications were built between 1893 and 1906 - the so-called Northern Forts. Since then, the massive concrete bunkers stretched for several kilometres along the coast.

But soon the line of defense was recognized as a misplanning. In November 1908 Tsar Nicholas II finally decided to give up the sea fortress at Liepāja. The cannons were dismantled and partly melted down. However, attempts to blow up and remove the bunkers failed. Instead, a series of bunker ruins were created - bizarre shapes made of concrete, which the sea slowly took away. Absolutely worth seeing and for me as a fan of lost places and bunkers also a highlight of our road trip in the Baltic States.

Where? The bunkers extend several kilometres along the coast. You can reach them for example via Krasta iela, Koknese iela or Jatnieku iela. But the most impressive part of the fortress with the best photo motives you will find at the Krasta iela.

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#16 Curonian Spit - Shifting Dunes & Cormorants

Sand as far as the eye can see. And even across borders. Because the 98 kilometre long Curonian Spit is partly in Lithuania (52 km) and partly in Russia (46 km). The cross-border national park was designated in 1991. Since 2000 it has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It includes shifting sand dunes, pine forests, the lagoon and the Baltic Sea coast.

The spit was created by erosion-induced sand movement and subsequent deposition in the shallow coastal waters. However, the sand was exposed during clearings in the 16th century. As a result, huge shifting sand dunes were created, which in the course of time buried 14 villages beneath them. Today, however, attempts are made to stabilise the sand dunes by planting. But the sand still moves about one meter towards the Baltic Sea every year.

The Curonian Spit with its shifting sand dunes was one of the highlights of our road trip in the Baltic States. What did we like best? The big cormorant & heron colony near Juodkrante, the grey dune as well as the Parnidis dune. And what we did not like at all? Well, the Curonian Spit is a popular tourist destination. It was just extremely crowded. Probably also because we were there at the peak travel time. Tip: On the Russian side it is much less crowded.

The Grey Dunes

The Grey Dunes are located in the Nagliai Nature Reserve. They are named after the greyish vegetation that covers the dunes in the areas sheltered from the wind. The vegetation holds the sand and slows down the drifts. The grey dunes are about 8 kilometres long and 2 kilometres wide. Four former villages are also buried beneath them.

However, the parking situation is difficult, especially with larger campers. So it is best to arrive early. Then also the photo light is much nicer than at noon. There is also a small entrance fee to pay. A nice path, which partly runs on wooden planks, leads you up to the highest point of the dune.

Cormorant & Heron Colony near Juodkrante

The trunks and branches of the pines are white from the guano of the birds. The treetops are full of black cormorants. There are thousands of animals that have built their nests here. Among the cormorants, there are also grey herons. These large birds nest on trees, too. Amazing, isn't it? The colony near Juodkrante is the largest cormorant & heron colony in the country and counts about 6500 animals. A spacious parking lot invites you for a stopover. Already from here you can see, hear and smell the colony. The best view is from the observation deck at the edge of the parking lot.

Parnidis Dune near Nida

The Parnidis dune is the landmark of the Curonian Spit. It rises south of Nida to a height of 52 metres and is one of the largest shifting sand dunes in Europe. But it is getting smaller. The reason for this is erosion - natural by wind and rain, but also man-made. Because climbing the slopes and walking on the dune off the wooden plank paths are damaging it. From the highest point of the dune you have a great view over the coastal strip and the forests to the Baltic Sea. When we were on the Parnis dune, it rained unfortunately, so there are only few photos. The best way to get to the dune from Nida is to follow the nature trail "Parnis Dune Trail", which is about 1.8 km long.

Getting there from Kleipeda: From the ferry pier in Kleipeda ferries leave every 30 minutes to the Curonian Spit all year round. You can check the current timetable and prices here . Depending on the season there is an entrance fee of 5 or 10 Euro for the park.

Pitch for the Night

Free camping is not allowed within the Curonian Spit National Park. Therefore we spent one night on the parking lot at the ferry port Smiltynė in the northern part of the island and two nights on the camping site Nidos Kempinggas in Nida.

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#17 Memel Delta - Boat Trip to the largest Bird Catching Nets in the World

In the small port of Nida, colourful signs attract guests. They offer boat trips, for example a half-day excursion to the Memel delta. The highlight of the excursion is a visit to the ornithological station at the tip of the Ventés Ragas (Windenburger Eck), which is about 5.5 kilometres long.

The ornithological station is one of the oldest of its kind in the world. Bird migration has been observed here since 1929. And there is a lot to see here. One of the most important bird migration routes of the entire Baltic Sea region runs along the Curonian Spit. During bird migration, up to one million birds fly over the Ventés Ragas headland every day. Many stop here for a rest and some of the birds get caught in one of the largest bird-catching nets in the world. The birds are then measured, weighed, ringed and finally released.

Since 1930 birds have been caught and banded or ringed here. Since 1978 / 89 the two largest bird nets in the world have been standing here. They are 25 meters high and catch 50.000 to 80.000 birds every year. Smaller nets are also used to catch insects such as butterflies and dragonflies.

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#18 Relicts from the Soviet Era

Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania - three countries and three different stories. But the three Baltic countries have one thing in common. They once belonged to the Soviet Union. Even today you can still find traces of that time in many places. I will show you some of them in my separate article Relicts from the Soviet era - tips for your tour in the Baltic States. The relicts from the Soviet era were for me one of the highlights of our road trip in the Baltic States.

#19 Kurshskaya Kosa National Park

Shortly after the border you will come to the checkpoint for the Kurshskaya Kosa National Park. Here you have to pay a small entrance fee (40 roubles / person; 300 roubles / car), either in cash or by credit card. The park is much less crowded here than on the Lithuanian side. The paths to the dunes are wilder and not so strictly fenced. There are several picnic areas, from which you can reach the water or the dunes after a short walk. About 8 kilometres behind the border, on the 40 metre high dune range, you will find the viewpoint Ephas Höhe . From here you have a great view of the 62 meter high Orekhovoy Dune - Europe's highest shifting sand dune.

About 17 kilometres after the border you will reach the "Dancing Forest". The pines of the Dancing Forest have grown twisted like a screw and give a bizarre picture. A laid out path leads you to the most beautiful specimens. Why the pines are the way they are, however, nobody knows exactly. But one speculates that underground water veins could be the cause.

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#20 "Little Russia" - Russian Exclave Kaliningrad

The coast of the Kaliningrad region was already known for its large amber deposits in Roman times. In the 13th century Teutonic knights finally founded the city of Königsberg. The city in East Prussia was prosperous, cosmopolitan and popular. It is also said to have been one of the most beautiful cities in Germany. After the First World War, however, it was separated from the rest of Germany. And after the Second World War the city lay in ruins. In 1946 Königsberg was finally renamed Kaliningrad in honour of the former Soviet head of state Kalinin and rebuilt in Soviet style.

Since the Baltic States regained their independence in 1991, the Kaliningrad region has been an exclave of Russia. "Little Russia" is separated from the rest of Russia by Poland and Lithuania. We entered Kaliningrad from Lithuania via the Curonian Spit. The control at the border crossing was quick and smooth.

Walk through Kaliningrad - Prussian Architecture and Soviet Chic

With its mix of old Prussian buildings, prefabricated concrete slabs, parks and Soviet chic, I immediately took the city to my heart. Our highlights in Kaliningrad were:

Dom Sowjet: The old city castle was destroyed in the Second World War. On its remains the Dom Sowjet was built in the 60s. But it was never completed. The reason for this were static problems caused by the building ground. Because a tunnel was discovered in the underground, which once connected the castle with the cathedral.

Königsberg Cathedral: Königsberg Cathedral: Not many of the original historical buildings of the old Königsberg have been remaining since the Second World War. However, some buildings have been restored, such as the Königsberg Cathedral dating from 1333. It is now listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. By the way: right behind the cathedral there is the grave of the philosopher Immanuel Kant.

Amber Museum in the Dohnaturm: I was quite amazed - the things you can't make out of amber. But the coolest thing I found was the amber world map. The amber museum shows more than 6000 exhibits, among them a 4.28 kilogram stone and numerous stones with enclosed insects. The tower is part of the old fortification of the city. The walls, gates, towers and bastions of red brook stone were built between the 17th and 19th centuries.

TipSince July 2019 it is possible to get a free electronic visa for a maximum stay of 8 days. You can find more information here.

Pitch for the Night

About 15 kilometres east of Kaliningrad lies the camping site Festival'nyy. But as our time was slowly running out, we wanted to stay closer to the centre. Therefore we took a room for two nights in the Ibis Hotel Kaliningrad Center near the cathedral. For our camper there was a gap left on the guarded hotel parking lot.

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#21 Gdansk - Walk through one of the most beautiful Cities in Poland

The port city of Gdansk is considered one of the most beautiful cities in Poland. Thanks to the restorers! Because they did a great job here after the Second World War. At that time the city was about 80% destroyed. The old town was then rebuilt under functional aspects. However, the so-called "Rechtstadt" was restored true to the original and richly detailed.

During a walk through the "Rechtstadt" you can see the most important highlights of Gdansk. This is where the so-called Royal Street runs - the boulevard formed by the Long Street and the Long Market. The typical colourful gabled houses of Gdansk line up here in a line.

You should also take a look at the Frauengasse. The houses here have terraced porches which used to serve as flood protection. From Frauengasse you can reach the famous crane gate through Frauentor. This city gate made of brick and wood is the most famous landmark of the city.

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General Tips for your Road Trip in Russia & Baltic States

The Russian Driving Style

Russian car or truck drivers like to overtake - no matter where. Even in curves or in front of mountain tops! Especially our slower Iveco ( travelling speed about 80 km/h) was often overtaken by the big trucks. If the road has an asphalted hard shoulder, this was also used. On a two-lane road, three vehicles often drive side by side. Really needs getting used to! But it was quite extreme on the E105 from the east towards St. Petersburg. Wherever it was possible, we of course let pass vehicles that for some reason were jammed behind us. The bus stops at the country roads are very good for this.

By the way: If an oncoming vehicle uses the headlight flasher, the driver usually warns of an upcoming police control. During our whole tour we were not even controlled.

Pitches for the Night

In Finland, Russia-Karelia and the Baltic States, so-called "wild camping" is allowed and quite normal. Beautiful pitches are available in the Baltic States like sand at the sea. In the book "Mit dem Wohnmobil ins Baltikum: Litauen, Lettland, Estland" (in german) you will also find many suggestions for suitable pitches. But here is the rule: First come, first camp. Most of these sites are no longer insider tips - if you arrive late in the evening, the sites may already be taken. Furthermore, these free pitches should not be overloaded with too many campers.

Do you need some camping equipment? You can find comfortable folding chairs, practical camping accessories or a picnic blanket at Bergzeit*. Take a look right now.

The "wild camping" will of course only be accepted as long as all campers follow certain rules. That means:

• Don't leave garbage or any other mess!
• Do not destroy nature with your tires! Respect nature reserves and national parks and stay here on the official parking lots.
• Keep some distance to settlements / houses.
• Be careful with open fire - only at suitable places, or better avoid it.
• Don't park on cultivated land

Toll Fee

Only in Poland we had to pay toll for the motorway, because only here we drove on the motorway. As our Iveco weighs over 3.5 tons, electronic toll payment was also obligatory for us. For this we had to install a transponder box from ViaToll with prepaid credit just across the border. Unfortunately, returning it to a petrol station before the border didn't work out. We still have the box. For all vehicles under 3.5 tons, however, manual toll payment is possible at the toll stations.

You can find out about the current toll regulations on the ADAC website. Another very helpful guide to tolls for motorhomes in Germany and Europe can be found in the mobility magazine of Bussgeldkatalog.org.

Traffic Rules

In addition to a foreign driving licence, the international driving licence and the vehicle registration document, you also need the green insurance card. Make sure that Russia is not crossed out in the insurance policy.

Furthermore applies:

• Obligation to wear seat belts
• Mobile phone ban
• Zero alcohol limit! Russia 0.03 per mille limit.
• The headlights must be switched on even during the day.

Two more tips for Russia:

• Green lights that flicker change to orange soon after. As soon as you see the traffic light flickering you have to stop, even if it is still green.
• Attention crosswalk! Here you have to stop - which is actually self-evident, but it surprised me in Russia! Also the Russian drivers have meticulously followed this rule. But open your eyes! Because sometimes the zebra crossings are hard to recognize, especially in the cities.

Refuelling

We have researched the diesel prices on the Internet beforehand. The fuel was of course cheapest in Russia, so we only filled up there. Our 300 liter tank gave us the necessary leeway. But the fuel was also one of the dirtiest we ever filled up - after the tour we had to change the diesel filter. Payment was possible by credit card. But the procedure of filling up the tank was sometimes a little bit different than we know it from Germany: you have to go to the cash desk with your credit card beforehand and say how many liters you want to fill up (be sure to take a note and pen with you, then you can write down the number). The credit card is checked and then the gas pump is released.

The network of petrol stations is dense, you can check the filling possibilities here .

Drinking Water

Tap water is safe to drink in Finland, Estonia and Poland. Even though we installed a water filter in the camper, we preferred to fill up our water tank only in one of these three countries.

Waste water

We have collected our washing waste water in a mobile canister. For our chemical toilet we also have a typical toilet tank. We could dispose both in the sanitary facilities of the campsites where we stayed every few days.

Shopping

Shopping was possible everywhere comfortably in the supermarket. Only on the Solowezky Islands it was a little challenge. Because here you had to order the items at the counter and the salesman brought them to you. If you want to buy vodka or other alcohol in Russia, keep in mind that it is not sold until 11 am.

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Travel Guide for your Road Trip in Russia & Baltic States

Do you want to know where the journey is going? Then I can recommend this travel guides* to you.

Have you ever (almost) travelled around the Baltic Sea yourself? What were the highlights of your road trip in Russia or the Baltic States? Do you have any questions about my article or suggestions? If so, please write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

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Road Trip Albania - 15 Highlights & Tips and Route

With Land Rover Series II to Iceland - ABC for an "Offroad"-Trip

Der Beitrag Roadtrip Ostsee – 21 Highlights, Tipps und Route für Russland & Baltikum erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Wherever the opportunity arises to visit a polar museum, I am there with enthusiasm. Every time I take enough time to look at all the exhibits. But in the Arctic and Antarctic Museum in St. Petersburg, this is already a challenge. You can easily spend half a day in the museum, so many exhibits are on display. The signs and texts are unfortunately all in Russian, but there is an audio guide in English.

Did the polar virus get you too? If you want to learn more about the polar regions, then take a look at my book tips .

The Founding of the Arctic and Antarctic Museum Saint Petersburg

The Church of St. Nicholas was built between 1820 and 1838 in neo-classical style and was used by the orthodox Old Believers. In 1931, however, the church was closed. Six years later, in January 1937, the Museum for the Arctic and Antarctic was opened in the church building. For this purpose the exhibits, which were scattered throughout Moscow, Arkhangelsk and Leningrad, were brought together. During the Second World War, the collection was brought to Krasnoyarsk in Siberia. It was not until 1950 that the exhibits returned to St. Nicholas' Church and have been on display there ever since.

Most of the churches in St. Petersburg, which were converted during the Soviet era, are now used as churches again. According to the law, St. Nicholas Church is also to be reinstated as a church. But neither the museum nor the church itself seems to want to implement this demand.

The Museum Collection

The collection of the Arctic and Antarctic Museum of Saint Petersburg consists of four sections:

• Arctic Geography and Nature
• Exploration of the North Pole
• Economy and culture of the peoples of the Arctic
• Antarctica

Arctic Geography and Nature

In the nave of the former church, the arctic geography and the flora and fauna living here is shown. In the middle of the main nave, a geographical model gives an overview of the northern polar regions. Dioramas of bird colonies, walrus families and stuffed animals of the Arctic are lined up on the walls. Above the entrance area hangs an airplane that was used during expeditions in the Arctic.

Exploration of the Arctic Ocean

In the left aisle you will learn about the exploration of the Arctic Ocean and the discovery of the North-East Passage. On display are pictures and models of Russian icebreakers, such as "Arctic" and "Lenin". You will also see other technical objects that were used in the exploration of the Arctic Ocean. Maps show the expedition routes of Russian ships and provide information about important captains and scientists. The life of a polar researcher is particularly vividly depicted with the fully equipped cabin of the Soviet research station "Severny Poljus-3".

Economy and culture of the peoples of the Arctic

In the right aisle the traditional culture of the peoples of the Arctic, such as the Yakuts Komi, Karelians or Nenets is shown.

Antarctica

While the first floor of the church exclusively covers the northern polar region, the second floor has been dedicated to Antarctica since 1958. In the middle of the exhibition room, directly under the dome, stuffed penguins are presented in a showcase. Here, in the light of the glass dome, it is also a little more international: above the penguins fly the flags of the twelve states that signed the Antarctic Treaty at the Antarctic Conference in 1959. In contrast to the ground floor, where Russian Arctic research is the main focus, this floor also deals with research into the Antarctic of other states. For example, you can also see diaries of the race to the South Pole between the British Robert Scott and the Norwegian Roald Amundsen or the sled of Robert Scott.

Also on display are the clothes of the explorers then and now, as well as items used on the expeditions of the time, including survival kits, sleds and tracked vehicles. Numerous maps, photos and paintings give an impression of the expeditions and the conditions under which they took place.

Excursus: Antarctic Treaty
The Antarctic Treaty was signed by 12 states in 1959 and came into force in 1961. The Antarctic Treaty is the first international agreement after the Second World War. In the middle of the Cold War, Western and Eastern powers agreed on the joint peaceful use of an uninhabited continent. The number of signatory states has now grown to 51. The Antarctic Treaty itself was concluded for an indefinite period. The objectives of the treaty are:
Peaceful use of Antarctica; international cooperation in research with unhindered exchange of information; individual countries defer their claims to territories; ban on military activities; disposal and import ban on radioactive waste.
You can read more about the Antarctic Treaty here .

Address and Opening Hours

(please check again before you go)

Address: Uliza Marata 24a
Open: Wed-Sat 10-18, Sun to 5 pm
Days off: Mon, Tue and last Thu of the month
Nearest Metro: Vladimirskaya or Mayakovskaya
Admission (in 2017): 100 rubles
Internet: https://www.polarmuseum.ru/

Have you ever been to Saint Petersburg and visited the Arctic and Antarctic Museum? How did you like it? Do you have any questions about my article or further suggestions? If so, please write me a comment!

Recommendations for further Reading

The Beluga Whales of the Solowezki Islands

Solowezki Islands - Highlights and Travel Tips

Der Beitrag Arktis und Antarktis Museum Sankt Petersburg erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

What to expect in this Article

The Solowezki Islands - Overview and History
Highlights and Sights of the Solowezki Islands
1. The Solowezki Monastery - the most visited Highlight of the Islands
2. Insight into History - the Gulag Museum
3. Beluga Whales - my personal Highlight of the Solowezki Islands
4. The Maritime Museum
5. Prehistoric Stone Labyrinths
6. Botanical Garden
7. Excursions to the neighbouring Islands
Solowezki Islands - more helpful Travel Tips for Planning

The Solowezki Islands - Overview and History

The Solowezki Islands, or Solowki Islands, consist of six larger inhabited and several smaller uninhabited islands. Nearly 1,000 inhabitants were counted in 2002.

Already in the 13th century the first monks settled on the island Groß Solowezki. In 1429 the monks Sawwati, German and Sossima founded the Solowezki monastery on the main island. It soon became the most important religious centre in the north of Russia and one of the richest monasteries in Russia.

The monastery was then expanded into a fortress and a prison in the 18th century. For over two and a half centuries, mainly political prisoners were imprisoned here.

Later, however, the archipelago took a sad place in Russia's history as the Gulag archipelago. The Solovki camp was in fact Russia's first large prisoner camp, the prototype for the Soviet camp system and became a symbol of terror. As early as 1920, a labour camp was set up in the fortress and the existing prison. In October 1923, the "Solovetsky Camp for Special Use" (SLON) was established with the first 130 inmates. The motto above the camp's entrance gate was: "Let us with an iron hand drive humanity towards its happiness." In 1931 there were then over 70,000 inmates. All the monastic buildings and even the hermitages were converted into storage facilities. The camp was also characterised by poor medical care, maltreatment, torture and lack of food. Several tens of thousands of people were murdered in the forests of the island during this period.

After the time as a gulag, the Solovetsky Islands are today again dominated by the monastery complex and inhabited by Russian Orthodox monks. The complex on the main island has been restored and since 1992 has also been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is one of the most important monasteries in northern Russia and is therefore visited by numerous pilgrims every year.

Highlights and Sights of the Solowezki Islands

1. The Solowezki Monastery - the most visited Highlight of the Islands

The monastery is the main attraction of the Solowezki Islands and absolutely worth seeing. When your boat approaches the islands, the monastery is the first thing you will see. From the water you will have a great view of the buildings.

The complex contains several smaller exhibitions, for which you can buy tickets directly on site. But I would recommend a guided tour, because the monastery is big and you might miss many things. Guided tours in foreign languages are available at the tourist information.

2. Insight into History - the Gulag Museum

The Gulag Museum is easy to overlook. It is located in a dark wooden house to the left of the main road south. Only a small sign points to the exhibition.

Unfortunately in summer 2017 all texts were only in Russian. Information or an audio guide in English was not available. But the old photographs and graphics mostly speak for themselves. Even if you can only take a fraction of the contents of this exhibition with you without knowledge of Russian, I think the Gulag Museum of the Solovetsky Islands is worth seeing.

3. Beluga Whales - my personal Highlight of the Solowezki Islands

Are whale watching tours also part of your favourite programme when you are at the sea? You can even watch the beluga whales of the Solowezki Islands from land. Because the calm shallow water in front of the islands is the nursery of the belugas. In summer they come here to give birth and raise their young. How you can get to the Beluga Cape Observation Point on your own and what you have to keep in mind when doing so is explained in my article The Beluga Whales of the Solowezki Islands. The Beluga Whales of the Solowezki Islands.

4. The Maritime Museum

The Solowezki Islands used to be the starting point for numerous expeditions to the Arctic. Therefore a maritime museum should not be missing here. Right after Cape Beluga it is one of my favourite travel tips for the Solowezki Islands.

You'll find it opposite the monastery, on the other side of the bay. It shows nautical instruments, old charts and photographs of seafaring. A large-format map also shows the routes of polar expeditions that started from the Solowezki Islands. The names of the expedition leaders of the time are also shown on associated boards. On the upper floor, there is even an entire room dedicated to Russian polar expeditions. On display are various items of equipment, warm clothing made of furs and old black and white photographs. The museum also presents the special features of the boats that were used on the White Sea and had to cope with typical short and steep waves. In the basement you can even see a replica of such a boat. A really beautifully designed museum. In front of the office on the ground floor you can also buy postcards and get them in the mailbox with a special postmark of the Solowezki Islands.

You can find out more about Russian polar research at the Museum of the Arctic and Antarctic in Saint Petersburg. Here you come to my article about this wonderful polar museum.

5. Prehistoric Stone Labyrinths

Prehistoric stone labyrinths have been preserved on the Solowezki Islands. However, their purpose is still unclear today. Scientists assume, however, that the labyrinths are religious ritual sites of fishermen settling here. Others, however, believe that the stone spirals were made by extraterrestrials.

You can reach the stone circles by walking south from Solowezki Monastery for about 2.5 kilometers. There a path branches off to the coast.

6. Botanical Garden

On the Solovetsky Islands there is one of the most northern botanical gardens in Russia. Unique plants grow here as well as many purple lupines. An idyllic place, very beautiful to look at. If you come back from the Beluga Cape by bike, a short stopover is worthwhile.

7. Excursions to the neighbouring Islands

At the tourist information you can also book thematic tours on Great Solovetski and excursions to the neighbouring islands. Solowezki Islands - more helpful travel tips for planning and on the road Arrival

Solowezki Islands - more helpful Travel Tips for Planning

Getting there

By boat: There are two boat connections, which go regularly to the main island Groß-Solowezki: The ships Metel-4 and Vasily Kosyakov leave from June to August once a day from the village Rabocheostrovsk near Kem to Greater Solovetski (duration approx. 2.5 hours). From Belomorsk the ship Sapphire sails once a day (duration about 4 hours).

We started from Rabocheostrovsk. You can buy the tickets for the boat at the reception of the Turkomplex Prichal holiday complex and reserve them in advance by e-mail. The communication was possible without any problems in English. The resort invites you to stay, because it has several comfortable wooden bungalows, a cafe and a guarded parking lot. For a fee camping is possible and we could leave our camper during our stay on the islands with a clear conscience for a few days. We have booked our tickets for the beginning of July about 3 weeks in advance, which I highly recommend due to the small ship and numerous pilgrims who want to go to the island.

If you are travelling without your own vehicle, you can also take the train from Petrozavodsk to Kem. From there there is a bus connection to the ferry port.

By plane: There is also a small airport on the main island with connections to Arkhangelsk. However, flights are highly dependent on the weather, as it is not possible to land on the island in fog or strong winds.

Moving around

On site you have the possibility to rent bikes. This will take you to most of the sights on the main island. Be sure to take one of the more robust mountain bikes, as the roads are unpaved and have numerous potholes. After a while, riding a bike can become a challenge, as you will need to take evasive action.

If it is too far or too bumpy for you, you can change to public buses. You can get up-to-date information about the buses at the tourist information office, which is located on the right-hand side between the pier and the monastery.

The classic vehicle on the Solowkis, however, are the UAZ buses. These are also used as taxis. A ride in the UAZ is an experience you should not miss.

Language

Our knowledge of Russian could be summed up in three words at the time of our trip. So we went among the people armed with dictionary, note and pen. And that went surprisingly well. Whenever we couldn't get any further, someone miraculously turned up who spoke a little English and helped out.

And every time I spoke a few words of Russian, people were happy and felt invited to tell me about their families. I regretted that I could hardly talk and enrolled in a Russian course right after the trip.

At the tourist information and in our hotel we got along well with English.

Shopping and Money

There are kiosks for grocery shopping and also a small supermarket. But the shopping is a little bit different than what we are used to and has to be well prepared. Because you have to order every single item from the shop assistant, so either learn the words before or read them from a cheat sheet.

There was no cash machine on the island in summer 2017. So take enough cash with you so that you can pay for the one or other guided tour. Does your accommodation only accept cash or credit cards as well? In order to avoid surprises, it is better to check again before you go.

Sleeping and Eating

You can find accommodations on booking.com We stayed at the Hotel Ostrovito Moryushko untergebracht und bekamen dort Frühstück und es gab auf Wunsch auch Abendessen. Tagsüber haben wir gepicknickt oder in der Kantine vom Kloster gegessen. Abends ist es im Cafe Expedition sehr gemütlich, es gibt Bier und dazu einheimische Hausmannskost. Sehr beliebt ist der Solowezky-Hering. Im Cafe Expedition könnt ihr auch Bootsfahrten zu den Belugawalen buchen. Es liegt am südlichen Ende des Klosters auf einer kleinen Anhöhe. (Das Cafe Expedition heißt jetzt Kafe “Pinagor”.)

Have you ever been to the Solwezki Islands in the White Sea and what were the highlights for you? Do you have any questions about my travel tips or further suggestions? If so, please write me a comment!

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Der Beitrag Solowezki-Inseln – Sehenswertes und Reisetipps erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

What to expect in this Article

Solowezki Islands - the Nursery of the Beluga Whales
Beluga Cape - Whale Watching from Land
Path to the Beluga Whales of the Solowezki Islands
The ecological Path to Beluga Cape
Beware of Arctic Terns
The Way back from the Beluga Whales
Boat Tours to the Beluga Whales of the Solowezki Islands
The Business with the Beluga Whales
Profile Beluga Whale

Solowezki Islands - the Nursery of the Beluga Whales

White whales in the White Sea. In between are small slate gray whales. These are the calves. Only after about a year do they get a blue-grey colouration and are then called "blues". In the fifth year of life the white whales finally get their eponymous white colouring. 

By the way, the name "Beluga" (white whale) also comes from the word "white", but in Russian: белуха, from белый bely "white". As the white whales are often located at the pack ice border, their white colouring may protect them from polar bear attacks.

Young belugas are often seen on the Solowezki Islands. The protected and flat area in front of the islands serves as a nursery for the animals. In early summer calves are sometimes born here. We were very lucky. In July 2017 we were able to witness how, after an initially inexplicable tumult under water, a newborn calf was lifted to the surface by its mother to breathe. That day was also my birthday. What a gift!

Beluga Cape - Whale Watching from Land

At the westernmost tip of the island of Groß-Solowezki there is a small offshore island - Beluga Cape - from where you can watch the Beluga Whales of the Solowezki Islands from land. For a better view there is even an observation tower. An excursion to the Beluga Cape has to be planned carefully as the island is only accessible at low tide. The tourist information helped us with the tide calendar and explained the way on a map.

The best season for the tour is mid June to mid August. Because in this period the Belugas approach the shores of the Big Solowezki Island. But there is no guarantee that whales will be there. But if there are any, they are close to the shore and can be observed with the naked eye.

By the way: Guided hikes to the Beluga whales of the Solowezki Islands can also be booked at the Solowezki Islands Tourist Information .

Path to the Beluga Whales of the Solowezki Islands

The first part of the way (about 7 km) you can either take a taxi (there are UAZ taxis) or a bicycle. Bicycles can be rented at the bike rental between the monastery and the ferry pier. In any case, take a more robust mountain bike and be sure to plan a little more time for the way. Because the road is in bad condition you will need more time than you think.

The ecological Path to Beluga Cape

The second part of the trail is the approximately 6 km long "ecological trail". It leads you through a beautiful forest to the coast. From here on you can only continue on foot. Swampy places are covered with wooden planks. On the way there we had to hunt through almost at a run, because the low tide was approaching.

At the coast there is a small signpost that describes a path through the mudflats to the island. Now we have to take off our shoes and roll up our trousers. Happy is whoever has bathing sandals now and a small towel for later. After a few meters we had forgotten where the path goes and searched our own way through the mudflats. The target is well visible through the observation tower. When we were there in 2017, the old tower was just replaced by a new one, so unfortunately I can't show the view from above.

Beware of Arctic Terns

As soon as you approach the small island off the coast, watch out for the Arctic terns nesting there! If you get too close to their clutches, they will attack the highest point of you. Well, if that's not your head. You will find a cluster of branches on the shore, which you can hold up above your head to ward off the birds.

The Way back from the Beluga Whales

Don't lose track of time while watching the whales. As soon as the water rises again you have to start your way back. And the water rises faster than expected. We were a bit late, the water was already above our knees and quite cold. So we were even happier when we had dry ground under our feet again and could warm up with some cookies in the sun.

Do you want to know more about the islands in the White Sea? Then take a look at my article about the Solowezki Islands and read more about the moving history of the islands.

Boat Tours to the Beluga Whales of the Solowezki Islands

On the Solowezki Islands boat trips to the Beluga whales are also offered. However, these are very weather-dependent and can be cancelled at short notice. You can book boat trips with plenty of advance notice at Kolatravel or with help / mediation through the local tourist information.

Does the weather not play along and you cannot go on a tour to the whales? Then you might be interested in my article about the monastery and museums of the Solewetzki Islands .

The Business with the Beluga Whales

Watching the Beluga whales in the wild was one of my most beautiful nature experiences. Unfortunately not all Beluga whales are doing so well. Beluga whales are still presented in aquariums as an attraction. They are still caught on a large scale in Russia and are "temporarily stored" in the so-called "whale prison" in the East of Russia near Vladivostok until they are resold to an aquarium. According to Greenpeace, a total of 13 orcas were sold from Russia to China between 2013 and 2016. The average price for an animal is therefore around 700,000 euros.

Up to 100 animals, belugas and orcas, had been kept in the tiny tanks in autumn 2018. There were massive protests and the animals are now a case for the Russian public prosecutor's office. The future of the whales is still unclear (as of spring 2019).

Do you want to know more? In 2017 the three Russian divers Gaya, Tanya and Julia made a moving film about the catch, the torturous keeping and the marketing of the beluga whales: "Condemned to suffer - The business with the beluga whales". To be found on the website of Save the Ocean. The documentary film reveals how things can happen behind the scenes of the beautiful dolphinariums and cheerful shows and shows a reality that visitors of show oceanariums like to hide. I admire the three women for their courage and commitment to the animals and would like to recommend their film to others. At the end of the film they even dive with the whales at the Beluga Cape of the Solowezki Islands. But please do not imitate: swimming and diving with the animals is not allowed for the benefit of the whales.

Another recommendable film on this topic is the film Blackfish. The film tells the story of Tilikum, a trained orca in the SeaWorld adventure park in Florida. The whale pulled his trainer under water during a show and killed her. In shocking pictures Blackfish shows the suffering of whales in captivity and how a multi-million dollar business tries to cover up incidents. An emotional story that gets under your skin. You can read more here. Here to find out more about it.

Profile Beluga Whale
(Delphinapterus leucas)

Area of distribution: in shallow waters, rivers and estuaries in the Arctic and sub-Arctic, mostly near the coast. Occurs mostly between 80th and 46th latitude, depending on the extent of the ice. Migration into rivers is frequently observed, for example also into the Elbe or Loire.

Threats: Pollutants introduced by agriculture and industry are a major burden to populations. These include in particular mercury, lead and organic chlorine compounds such as DDT, PCBs and PAHs. Furthermore, the increasing extraction of oil and the associated pollution and noise pollution is proving to be problematic.

Total length: 4 - 6 m
Weight: 0.4 - 1.5 t
Life expectancy: 30-40 years
Speed: briefly 30 km/h
Maximum diving depth:  up to 600 m
Dive time: 15-20 minutes
Sexual maturity: Females with 5 years, males with 7-8 years
Mating season: spring to summer
Tragzeit: 14,5 months
Birth cycle: every three years, usually in July
Birth length: 1,5 m
Sawing time: 18-23 months
Group size: 5-20 animals, in summer thousands in river deltas
Food: fish, crustaceans, cephalopods. Molluscs and molluscs are collected from the bottom.

Have you ever been to the Solwezki Islands in the White Sea yourself and maybe you have even seen the Belugas? Do you have any questions about my article or suggestions? If so, please write me a comment!

Recommendations for further Reading

Der Beitrag Die Beluga Wale der Solowezki-Inseln erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.