Norway. Anyone traveling in the far north of Norway will quickly encounter the terms “Arctic” and “wild.” But some places fill these words with a very special meaning. One of these places is Hornøya—a small, uninhabited island east of Vardø, Norway's easternmost town, just a few kilometers from the Russian mainland. In spring, the barren rock awakens from its winter slumber when hundreds of thousands of seabirds return from their winter quarters to breed on the steep cliffs. I haven't seen many places like it and can highly recommend a visit. Here you can read about what to expect on the bird island of Hornøya, one of the best places for bird photography in Norway, and get lots of practical tips.

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Hornøya/Reinøya – Bird Cliffs in the Barents Sea

Even as you approach by boat, you can hear the screeching of the bird colonies. Kittiwakes circle above the waves, while puffins with orange feet and colorful beaks land on the rocky outcrops. It is one of Norway's densest seabird colonies and a natural spectacle that leaves you speechless with amazement. As soon as I leave the boat, I am overwhelmed by the sheer number of birds on the rocks and in the air above me. It takes me a while to compose myself and take my first steps on the visitor trail.

Even as you approach by boat, you can hear the screeching of the bird colonies. Kittiwakes circle above the waves, while puffins with orange feet and colorful beaks land on the rocky outcrops. It is one of Norway's densest seabird colonies and a natural spectacle that leaves you speechless with amazement. As soon as I leave the boat, I am overwhelmed by the sheer number of birds on the rocks and in the air above me. It takes me a while to compose myself and take my first steps on the visitor trail.

History of the Islands Hornøya/Reinøya

Hornøya and Reinøya look back on a long history of use. As early as the Middle Ages, the islands served as an important source of food for the inhabitants of Vardø: eggs and seabirds were collected from the steep cliffs, and their feathers and down were used as commodities. This form of use continued for centuries and was of great importance for supplying the population in the barren Arctic. At the same time, the islands served as landmarks for fishing and shipping in the Barents Sea and, as Norway's easternmost points, also marked a strategically important position near the Russian border. With the decline of traditional use and growing awareness of the value of undisturbed breeding colonies, attitudes toward the islands began to change in the 20th century. In 1983, Hornøya and Reinøya were finally declared a nature reserve in order to permanently secure the significant seabird populations and protect the sensitive ecosystem from disturbance.

Geology and Climate

The islands of Hornøya and Reinøya consist mainly of sedimentary rocks, primarily slate and sandstone, which were deposited during the Devonian period around 400 million years ago. Weathering and erosion have created striking cliffs that rise 20 to 30 meters high on the western sides and provide ideal breeding grounds for seabirds. The rock layers are part of the geological structures of the Varanger Peninsula area and document the geological development of Finnmark. The climate of the islands is strongly influenced by their location in the Barents Sea: it is a subarctic maritime climate with long, cold winters and short, cool summers. Despite the high latitude, the influence of the North Atlantic Current prevents the sea from freezing permanently. The islands are often exposed to strong winds, fog, and rapid weather changes, which limit the vegetation to a few salt- and cold-resistant species such as mosses, lichens, and low herbs. The climatic conditions and barren soils explain why the islands are almost treeless and the habitats are largely characterized by rocks and sparse tundra vegetation.

The Bird Eldorado on Hornøya/Reinøya

The islands of Hornøya and Reinøya are home to one of Norway's largest and most species-rich seabird colonies. Every spring and summer, more than 50,000 breeding pairs return to use the steep cliffs, rocky ledges, and burrows as nesting sites. Particularly numerous are kittiwakes, with over 25,000 pairs, guillemots, with around 15,000 pairs, and around 11,000 to 16,000 puffins, which dig their breeding burrows in the grass and soil layers of the island. In addition, black guillemots, razorbills, thick-billed murres, and fulmars are also permanent members of the colony. Cormorants, cormorants, and various species of gulls, such as herring gulls and great black-backed gulls, occupy the rocks and coastal areas. The enormous diversity and density of birds make Hornøya and Reinøya one of the most important breeding grounds in the Barents Sea and an internationally significant bird sanctuary.

The longer I observe the colony, the more fascinating the birds' survival strategies seem to me. The guillemots lay their eggs directly on bare rock, pear-shaped so that they don't roll away. Puffins use their powerful beaks to dig breeding burrows in the ground – perfect nurseries protected from wind and cold. Every little behavior here has a purpose. Nothing is random; everything serves the cause of survival in this harsh world. Life here is a race against time: within a few months, the birds must raise their young before the autumn storms sweep across the Barents Sea.

The Puffins on Hornøya 

Clown among Seabirds

Puffins (Fratercula arctica) are among the best-known and most charismatic seabirds of the north. With their brightly colored beaks, expressive eyes, and waddling gait, they resemble small, winged clowns.

Puffins spend most of their lives on the open sea and only return to the coast during the breeding season. Their plumage is water-repellent, and their bodies are streamlined – perfect for diving. In fact, puffins can dive up to 60 meters deep to hunt fish. Their wings, which appear rather clumsy in the air, serve as powerful oars underwater. The shape of their beaks is also functional: thanks to special barbs, they can carry several fish at once. This is a clear advantage when raising their young, as small sand eels are their preferred prey.

The puffin population on Hornøya is estimated at around 5,000 to 7,000 breeding pairs. However, there have been fluctuations in the number of breeding birds in recent decades, as various environmental factors influence the population. While the island remains an important breeding ground, puffins are under severe pressure in other parts of Europe, and some colonies have already shrunk considerably.

The changing Seasons and Photographic Highlights

The puffins return to Hornøya in spring, usually in March or April, to occupy their breeding grounds. March is a particularly exciting time for photographers, when the first males arrive on the island, which is still covered in snow. They know exactly where their breeding burrows are hidden under the snow and defend them vehemently against competitors. The females follow the males ashore and search for their mates, who are already waiting faithfully for them. Puffins are monogamous and stay together for life.

In summer, when the chicks have hatched, there is a lot of activity on the island. The parents tirelessly bring fish, and impressive aerial photographs can be taken. The moment when a puffin lands with a beak full of small sand eels is a popular motif among photographers.

In late summer, the puffins leave the island. The young birds leave their nests and embark on their first big journey to the open sea. The adult birds then gradually lose their bright colors, marking the end of the annual cycle.

Threats and Protective Measures

Despite their large population numbers, puffins face numerous challenges. One of the greatest threats is the decline in their food sources. Climate change is altering ocean currents and affecting the populations of small fish such as sand eels, which are essential for puffins. In some areas, food shortages and low chick survival rates are a serious problem.

Other human influences are also affecting populations. Overfishing, pollution, and disturbances from tourism can have a negative impact on breeding colonies. In some regions, puffins are also victims of bycatch in fishing nets, which further reduces their populations.

Various protective measures have been put in place to counteract these threats. In many breeding areas, including Hornøya, protected areas have been established where access is strictly regulated. In addition, nature conservation organizations are working to reduce bycatch and promote sustainable fishing practices. Monitoring programs also help to observe populations over the long term and adjust necessary protective measures.

A Place you want to see again

As our boat sets sail back to Vardø in the late afternoon, the bird colony is just as noisy as it was in the morning. I look back at the dark cliffs, the small white lighthouse, and the clouds gathering over the Barents Sea. I already know that I will definitely come back here soon. Preferably, when there is still snow on the island and the first puffins are fighting for the best nesting caves.

Book Recommendations for Birdwatchers

You can order the books via the links on Amazon. If you purchase a product via an affiliate link, I will receive a small commission, and you will help me to continue filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you.

Photo Tips for Hornøya

Light & Season

• In spring (March/April), the light is often clear and high-contrast—perfect for photographing puffins in the snow.
• In summer, the days are long and almost endlessly bright. If you stay overnight in the lighthouse on the island, you can take advantage of the soft light in the morning and evening.

Equipment

• Telephoto lens for detailed shots of individual birds.
• Wide-angle lens to capture the vast colonies and cliffs.
• Weather protection for your camera equipment and yourself. The paths were extremely muddy, so rubber boots are a good idea.

Behavior & Respect

• The island may only be accessed along the marked/fenced paths. Never stray from the paths – any disturbance can endanger a nest.
• Patience is key: the birds often come very close on their own.

Practical Travel Information

Getting there

• Flight: The nearest city is Vardø, accessible via the small airport Vardø Svartnes (via Tromsø or Kirkenes).
• Ship: Alternatively, the Hurtigruten postal ship line calls at Vardø daily.
• Car: Traveling by car is worthwhile, as there is a National Scenic Route along the shore of the Varanger Fjord with many interesting stops along the way. Read more about this in my article Varanger Fjord: witches, street art, wildlife on the National Scenic Route.
• To the island: During the season (usually March to August), a small boat runs several times a day from Vardø to Hornøya. The crossing takes about 10 minutes. Tickets are available at the tourist information office at the harbor. More information is available here.

Accommodation

• There are several small hotels and guesthouses in Vardø.
• On Hornøya, it is possible to stay overnight in the lighthouse .

Travel Season

• March to August: This is when the bird paradise comes alive. The puffins return in March, and the colonies are at their densest in July.

Other Activities in the Region

• Vardø: Norway's easternmost town offers exciting history – here you will find, for example, the memorial to the victims of the witch trials (Steilneset Memorial), various museums, and Vardøhus Fortress, a star-shaped fortification from the 18th century. In the evening, it is worth visiting Nordpol Kro, where Nansen used to drink his beer.
• A particularly scenic drive to the old fishing village of Hamningberg with good chances of seeing reindeer.
• Bird watching: The neighboring islands and along the coast of Varanger also offer excellent bird watching opportunities with chances to see rare Arctic bird species. There are numerous observation huts.
• Northern Lights: From September to March, there are chances to see the Northern Lights.

Book recommendations for Norway

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

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Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love the north as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about my Husky Guide Training – Two Months with Hetta Huskies in Finland or about Trekking on the Laugavegur in Iceland.

Der Beitrag Vogelfotografie Hornøya – Guide zu der Vogelinsel im arktischen Norwegen erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Norway. Massive bodies, shaggy fur, and a hint of the Ice Age. If you enter Dovrefjell in March, you are not only embarking on a journey through snow and cold, but also through time. Because here, in central Norway, musk oxen defy the Arctic winter - they are relics of a bygone world and are among the last representatives of an animal world from the Ice Age. They were already extinct in continental Europe, but were successfully reintroduced to Dovrefjell in the 1930s. Today, around 200 musk oxen live in Dovrefjell. Observing them requires perseverance, patience, and caution. A good way to do this is on a guided tour of Moskusstien, which I report on here.

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On the Moskusstien to the Musk Oxen in Dovrefjell

Our small group consists of three nature photographers and an experienced guide. Equipped with snowshoes and our camera backpacks, we set off in the morning from Kongsvoll, a tiny village on the edge of the Dovrefjell-Sunndalsfjella National Park. Our destination: a herd of musk oxen that have been spotted on the barren plateaus around the promising Moskusstien.

Our small group consists of three nature photographers and an experienced guide. Equipped with snowshoes and our camera backpacks, we set off in the morning from Kongsvoll, a tiny village on the edge of the Dovrefjell-Sunndalsfjella National Park. Our destination: a herd of musk oxen that have been spotted on the barren plateaus around the promising Moskusstien.

Moskusstien is a marked hiking trail in Dovrefjell that leads nature lovers and photographers directly into the realm of the musk oxen. The trail starts near the E6 at Kongsvoll or at Hjerkinn and winds its way through the barren, vast mountain landscape up to the plateaus where, with a bit of luck, the primeval animals can be observed. The trail is around 10 to 15 kilometers long (depending on the variant) and requires a good level of fitness, especially in winter when deep snow and icy winds make the ascent difficult. Snowshoes or touring skis are then essential. Along the way, Moskusstien not only offers opportunities for wildlife spotting, but also breathtaking views of the Dovrefjell massif, including the striking Snøhetta. Information boards along the trail provide information on geology, flora, fauna and the history of the reintroduction of musk oxen. Despite its accessibility, the tour should never be underestimated - changeable weather, disorientation and encounters with wild musk oxen make it advisable to walk the route only with appropriate equipment and an experienced guide.

Encounter with prehistoric Animals

After about three kilometers and 300 meters of ascent, we reach a valley. There they stand: six musk ox bulls. Their massive bodies seem almost immobile in the snow flurries, but the animals are wide awake. With their broad front hooves, they dig for lichens and roots in the snow. The dense, shaggy hair reaches almost to the ground and protects the animals even at temperatures below minus 30 degrees Celsius.

The musk ox (Ovibos moschatus) is one of the last representatives of the animal world from the Ice Age. Originally native to the Arctic of North America, it was successfully reintroduced to Norway in the 1930s. Today, around 200 to 300 animals live in Dovrefjell, where they are strictly protected. Hunting is prohibited, and observations may only be made at a distance so as not to stress the animals, especially in the cold season, when every escape costs unnecessary energy. Some of my photos may look as if I were standing right next to the animals, but I was further away than it seems. A good telephoto lens makes a lot of things possible here.

Anatomy of a Survivalist

Musk oxen are perfectly adapted to the Arctic cold. Their coat consists of two layers: a dense, woolly undercoat (qiviut), which is warmer than cashmere, and a long, coarse outer coat. Their bulky build with short legs, small tail and thick neck reduces the surface area exposed to wind and cold. Even their nasal structure is designed to pre-warm the air they breathe before it reaches their lungs.

In winter, the animals join together in small bull herds, while the females form their own groups with the calves. Only during the mating season in summer do the males compete for the females with impressive fights. This is a time when the animals can become aggressive and unpredictable. But now, in late winter, it's all about survival. Calmly, almost stoically, they stand in the wind and dig for food unperturbed. Only sometimes do they measure their strength by facing each other and staring at each other.

Safety in Dovrefjell with the Musk Oxen

The sky, which we have been keeping a watchful eye on since midday, darkens visibly. As predicted, the wind picks up, and it doesn't take long for the snow to whip horizontally across the plain. We make our way back laboriously, step by step, against the storm. Visibility gets worse and worse, but our guide knows the terrain and leads us safely back to the valley.

On a winter tour to the musk oxen in Dovrefjell, safety is paramount - both in terms of the harsh weather conditions and keeping a respectful distance from the animals. The high plateau is often still covered in deep snow in March, with temperatures well below freezing, strong winds, and sudden changes in the weather. Snowstorms and poor visibility can make orientation difficult, while icy slopes and deep snow make progress energy-sapping. There can also be a risk of avalanches on steeper slopes. It is equally important to keep a safe distance from the musk oxen themselves: Although the primeval-looking animals are generally peaceful, they can react suddenly and aggressively when threatened, especially older bulls. An adult bull can reach speeds of up to 60 km/h and attack dangerously with its massive body. A minimum distance of 200 meters is prescribed by the national park administration. Experienced guides know the behavior of the animals and the peculiarities of the area and make a significant contribution to making the tour safe and stress-free for both humans and animals.

It is only in the warm room of the Dovrefjell Lodge that I realize how exhausted - and satisfied - I am. The experience of encountering these primitive animals in their natural environment will stay with me for a long time.

Dovrefjell-Sunndalsfjella National Park

Dovrefjell-Sunndalsfjella National Park covers more than 1,700 square kilometers in central Norway and comprises a unique mosaic of alpine plateaus, deeply carved valleys, moors, and river systems. The park was established in 2002 and protects not only spectacular landscapes, but also an extraordinary diversity of species that have adapted to the harsh climatic conditions.

The highest peak in the national park is the 2,286-metre-high Snøhetta, a striking mountain and symbolic landmark of the region, which is also popular with hikers and nature photographers. Unfortunately, the hut at the viewpoint was not open in winter, but we were able to sit in the sun on a bench in the lee of the hut. Botanically, the area is remarkable, as rare arctic-alpine plant species grow here that are rarely found elsewhere in Norway.

Dovrefjell Park is particularly famous as the home of the last wild musk oxen on the European mainland, which, after being reintroduced from Greenland in the 1930s, once again roam the plateaus in small herds. In addition to the musk oxen, the national park is also home to one of the few remaining populations of wild reindeer on the European mainland. These animals are much shyer and avoid human proximity, but also roam the open areas in search of lichen under the snow during the winter months. In addition to musk oxen and wild reindeer, the park is also home to Arctic foxes, wolverines, and ptarmigans.

Dovrefjell Park is particularly famous as the home of the last wild musk oxen on the European mainland, which, after being reintroduced from Greenland in the 1930s, once again roam the plateaus in small herds. In addition to the musk oxen, the national park is also home to one of the few remaining populations of wild reindeer on the European mainland. These animals are much shyer and avoid human proximity, but also roam the open areas in search of lichen under the snow during the winter months. In addition to musk oxen and wild reindeer, the park is also home to Arctic foxes, wolverines and ptarmigans.

Conclusion

Anyone traveling in Dovrefjell in winter enters a landscape that is uncompromising - but also of profound beauty. And if you are lucky enough to see musk oxen up close, you will sense that they are more than just relics of the ice age: they are survival artists in a changing world and a reminder of how fragile even something as big and strong as the musk ox can be.

Book Recommendations for Nature Photographers

Do you want to know more about photography and are you curious for inspiration? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Do you have any questions about my article? If so, please write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Want to spot even more wildlife? Then take a look at my article about Birdwatching in the Pond Landscape Linum and about Neuwerk Island - Birdwatching in the Hamburg Wadden Sea .

Der Beitrag Moschusochsen im Winterwind des Dovrefjell erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Norway. Most people travel to Nordkapp to take selfies of themselves and the polar sphere. I went to Nordkapp to photograph birds. A boat tour takes me to the bird cliff Gjesværstappan, a birdwatching paradise. More than a million puffins and thousands of other seabirds live here. Several sea eagles have also taken a liking to the land of milk and honey on the Arctic rocky islands.

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Birdwatching by Boat to Gjesværstappan

The boat tour to the bird cliffs starts in the small fishing village of Gjesvær, about 15 kilometers west of Nordkapp. The Birdsafari team sails to the Gjesværstappan bird cliffs three times a day in summer. They know the waters and know exactly where the nesting sites of the various seabird species are. The professionals also know that it can get cold on the boat during the two-hour tour in the winds of the Barents Sea. Therefore, every guest can borrow a warm overall.

A Sea of Puffins

After just a few minutes drive, we spot the first puffins on the water. Soon there are more and more and at some point the entire surface of the water is covered with puffins and other seabirds right up to the horizon. They fly up as soon as our boat gets too close. I look after the birds, up into the sky. Countless birds are circling around the rocks, almost as many as there are swimming on the sea. I don't even know where to look first... maybe at the sea eagle flying through the picture?

Gjesværstappan on the North Cape is one of Norway's largest Bird Cliffs

Gjesværstappan is home to one of Norway's largest seabird colonies with millions of birds from over 20 different species. The archipelago offers some of the best birdwatching opportunities in the far north. The number of breeding birds is impressive. This is partly due to the good feeding grounds that the sea provides here. Warm and cold ocean currents meet here in the Barents Sea, so the sea is rich in nutrients.

Gjesværstappan is an archipelago in the Norwegian province of Troms og Finnmark, northwest of the small fishing village of Gjesvær on the island of Magerøya near Nordkapp. The archipelago consists of three main islands that rise high and steeply out of the sea: Storstappen (283 m), Kjerkestappen (166 m) and Bukkstappen (92 m). In addition to the main islands, smaller rocks are jutting out of the water that are also used as nesting sites. Most birds nest on Storstappen, the largest of the three islands. In addition to countless birds, there are also traces of human settlement on the islands dating back thousands of years. There was once even a church on Kjerkestappen.

The islands are an ornithological jewel and an important breeding ground for numerous seabirds. The fish-rich waters of the Barents Sea offer the best conditions for seabirds. In the summer months, when the midnight sun lights up the horizon, the islands are a hive of activity. The steep cliffs and secluded islands provide an ideal habitat that is largely protected from humans and predators. Unless the predator comes from the air, such as sea eagles or skuas.

The Seabirds on Gjesværstappan

Due to the remote location and the low level of human disturbance, countless species of seabirds have been able to settle here. In addition to the puffins, we soon see guillemots, black guillemots, razorbills, cormorants, shags, gannets, and several sea eagles. In between, we repeatedly spot kittiwakes, great black-backed gulls, and herring gulls. If you are lucky, you may also spot fulmars, little auks, or skuas, which often hunt smaller seabirds or steal their food.

The main bird species on Gjesværstappan are

Puffins - the Clowns of the Sea

The “clowns of the sea” are the stars of the island. The puffins have their colonies on the islands of Storstappen and Kirkstappan. They nest in burrows that they dig into the ground. The colony has more than one million animals, including young and non-breeding puffins. This makes it one of the largest puffin colonies in Europe.

Northern gannets

The elegant northern gannets with their distinctive yellowish-white heads attract attention with their acrobatic flying maneuvers and steep dives. Gannets were first sighted on Gjesværstappan in the 1980s. Since then, one of Norway's largest gannet colonies has developed here. Today, around 1200 pairs build their nests on the Staurspira promontory. The large, elegant birds also use the remains of fishing nets, which they fish out of the water. On closer inspection of the pictures, I could not only see fluffy chicks, but also that the nets have become the doom of one or two animals.

Common guillemots

The guillemot is represented by up to 650 breeding pairs. The thick-billed guillemot also used to nest here. However, the population has not survived here. The pressure from the sea eagles may have been too high.

Razorbill

The razorbill nests are hidden between rock crevices and are more difficult to see. The population is estimated at 2500 pairs.

Common Sandpiper

The sandpiper nests on Gjesværstappan in the fall and winter. Normally, sandpipers breed like all other birds. In spring and summer. However, to avoid gulls and other predatory birds, the little sandpiper is nocturnal and only flies to its nest at night. Due to the constant light of the midnight sun in the Arctic, it would have no chance of successfully raising its young. Only from September, when it gets dark again at night, does the white-tailed eagle begin to breed.

White-tailed eagle

During the breeding season, the cliffs must be a haven for birds of prey. As a result, numerous white-tailed eagles live around Gjesværstappan. Sometimes up to 30 eagles can be seen in the air at the same time. Most of them are non-breeding juveniles, which can be easily recognized by their plumage.

King Penguins in Norway?

There is a curious historical anecdote about the islands. In the 1936s, king penguins from South America were released on the bird cliffs of Gjesværstappan - an ambitious but ultimately unsuccessful experiment. The idea was to establish a colony of these majestic birds in the region, which could then be used as an additional source of food. However, the animals disappeared after just one week. They were probably simply caught and eaten. Today, there are only a few historical records and stories of this episode.

Protective Measures for the Seabirds

Due to its importance as a nesting area, Gjesværstappan has been designated as a nature reserve since 1983 and is also protected as an Important Bird Area. The protected area covers an area of 7.1 square kilometers, of which around 1.7 square kilometers is land. The islands can be visited by excursion boats. However, it is not permitted to enter the islands between June 15 and August 15.

The Gjesværstappan nature reserve is managed by the Norwegian Directorate for Nature Conservation and the local municipality. In addition to monitoring the bird population, the nature conservation efforts focus on controlling invasive species. Through sustainable birdwatching tourism and scientific monitoring, the aim is to ensure that Gjesværstappan remains a safe place for countless seabirds in the future.

Getting there and Birdwatching Boat Tours to Gjesværstappan

The best starting point for exploring Gjesværstappan is the village of Gjesvær, about 35 kilometers west of the North Cape. The easiest way to get there is to drive from Honningsvåg, the nearest town with a small airport with flights from Oslo and Tromsø and a harbor where the Hurtigruten dock. A scenic road leads from Honningsvåg to Gjesvær. The Hurtigruten offers organized bus tours to the islands.

Most guided boat tours depart from the harbor in Gjesvær and take about 1.5 to 2 hours. During the tour, the boat brings visitors close enough to the cliffs to observe the birds without disturbing the sensitive breeding colonies. Some providers offer tours specifically geared towards photography, with longer stops at the best observation points.

The best time for birdwatching at Gjesværstappan is from May to August, when the breeding season is in full swing and the birds are particularly active on the islands.

Conclusion: a Paradise for Birdwatchers

Gjesværstappan is a true birdwatching paradise for bird lovers and photographers. The variety of seabirds, the breathtaking landscape, and the opportunity to observe rare species at close range make a visit an unforgettable experience. Thanks to strict conservation measures, this natural jewel will hopefully be preserved so that future generations can also experience the impressive birdlife of these islands.

Other Sights and Activities in the Region

North Cape: A trip to the North Cape is almost obligatory if you are already in the region. It is the northernmost point of mainland Europe and offers impressive panoramas and a visitor center.

Experience Sami culture: The Finnmark region is home to the Sami, Norway's indigenous people. Visitors can learn more about Sami culture and traditions here, e.g. in Honningsvåg or through Sami craft stores and museums.

Midnight sun: From the end of May to the end of July, the sun never sets in this region. The “white nights” offer a unique nature experience and allow bird watching in exceptional light conditions.

Book recommendations for Norway

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love the north as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about my Husky Guide Training – Two Months with Hetta Huskies in Finland or about Trekking on the Laugavegur in Iceland.

Der Beitrag Birdwatching in Norwegen: Insel Gjesværstappan am Nordkapp erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

NorwayHistory, culture, and nature are strung together like pearls on a necklace along the Varanger Fjord National Scenic Route. The further north-east you drive, the more spectacular the landscape becomes, the more reindeer are spotted, and visiting the bird island of Hornøya is an unforgettable experience. In the following article, I'll show you what I particularly liked about the Varanger Scenic Route.

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Overview

The Varange Scenic Route is one of Norway's 18 national tourist routes and is particularly scenic. It runs for 160 km along the shores of Varanger Fjord from Varangerbotn to Hamningberg. You will see lunar landscapes, golden beaches, rolling hills, barren mountain ridges, birch forests, and swamps. And of course lots of reindeer and birds. You will also pass historically interesting places. The history of the Sami people, the Finnish settlers, the proximity to Russia, and finally the Second World War can be experienced in many areas and in various museums.

The road between Svartnes and Hamningberg is narrow and winding. Take your time when driving and enjoy the scenery. The road is closed in winter (November/December to April/May). Important to know: There is no petrol station or store on this section of the Varanger Fjord National Scenic Route. You will definitely be staying longer than planned, so take plenty of food and drink with you.

Varanger Sami Museum in Varangerbotn

The Varanger Sami Museum is dedicated to the history of the Sami at the Varangerfjord, Sami prehistory, and contemporary Sami culture. The modern information presented here goes far beyond the basic information available in many other exhibitions. The main building was built in 1994 and is inspired by traditional Sami architecture.

For an overnight stay, I can highly recommend the 8-Season Hotel gegenüber vom Museum sehr empfehlen.

Ceavccageaðge/Mortensnes

The Ceavccageaðge/Mortensnes area is considered one of the richest and most diverse cultural regions in Scandinavia. Remains from the past document 10,000 years of uninterrupted settlement. The traces of the settlements can be seen today as the remains of campsites, turf houses, and other dwellings as well as sacrificial sites and graves. The burial ground along the coast was used until the 17th century when the Christianization of the Sámi in Varanger began. In Sámi, the place is named after one of the sacrificial stones: Ceavccageaðge, which means fish oil stone. This vertically upright stone was coated with fish oil to ensure the luck of the catch.

There is a free hiking trail through the area, and a museum with a small café is open in summer. There is also a small peat house within the museum grounds, where you can stay overnight by prior arrangement.

Nesseby church

Nesseby Church is located directly on the shore between two bays of Varanger Fjord. However, the wooden church not only impresses with its photogenic location, but also with its history:

Nesseby Church dates back to 1858 and is the only church in eastern Finnmark that was not destroyed during the Second World War. How was it saved? A legend tells the story: Sverre Raddum was the vicar during the war. The tall, strong man was known as a tough guy. When the Germans wanted to burn down the church in Nesseby, Sverre stood on the steps and waited with his priest's collar around his neck and wouldn't let them in. He said in German: “If someone goes into the church or a place of worship with evil thoughts, he is guaranteed to be punished by higher powers”. The Germans gave up and the church was saved.

The area around Nesseby church is a designated nature reserve. It is well worth a walk. With a bit of luck, waders, ducks, geese, gulls and birds of prey can be observed here.

Airship mast at Vadsø

The town of Vadsø, with a population of around 5500, is known as the Kven capital of Norway due to the wave of Finnish immigrants in the 18th and 19th centuries. The local museum has an exhibition on Kven culture and the history of the region.

For me personally, the most interesting thing was that Vadsø was the starting point for Amundsen and Nobile's exploratory flights towards the North Pole. The airship mast is a reminder of this time of the great polar explorers.

The airship “Norge” moored at the airship mast in 1926. From here, “The Amundsen - Nobile - Ellsworth Transpolar Flight” took off over Spitsbergen and the North Pole to Alaska. In 1928, the airship “Italia” landed here with Umberto Nobile on its way to the North Pole. On the way back, the airship had an accident and a rescue operation began, during which the polar explorer Amundsen died.

The airship mast is part of the two-kilometer Vadsø Cultural Trail. This leads past other historical remains from the Middle Ages and the Second World War.

Ekkerøy - Beach and Birds on the Varanger Fjord

Ekkerøy is a small, tranquil peninsula and a worthwhile destination for birdwatchers and beach lovers. A wide sandy beach connects the former island with the mainland and is a perfect place for a lunch break.

If you want to go to the bird cliffs, drive a little further and park your car directly at the trailhead. Two circular trails of different lengths (1.5 km or 7 km) lead from here through the nature reserve. During the breeding season from May to September, up to 20,000 pairs of kittiwakes nest on the bird cliffs. Herring gulls, great black-backed gulls, and ravens also use the cliffs as a nesting site. The rich feeding grounds around the bird cliff also attract other bird species such as white-tailed eagles, gyrfalcons, buzzards, kestrels and merlins.

The settlement of Ekkerøy was not destroyed during the Second World War. The former fish factory now houses a museum.

Kittywake Hotel and War Relics on Varanger Fjord

Have you ever seen a Kittywake Hotel? No? Then you have the opportunity to do so at Kiberg harbor.

Kiberg was one of the largest fishing communities in the region in the 16th and 17th centuries and played an important role in the Pomeranian trade. During the Second World War, the village was of strategic importance due to its proximity to Russia, as up to 45 partisans worked here for the Soviet Union. The Partisan Museum tells of the local events of the Second World War. The remains of bunkers can still be found on the mountain above the harbor, bearing witness to history.

Heksefjellet (witches' mountain) Domen

On the way from Kiberg to Vardø, you will pass Mount Domen. A particularly eye-catching windbreak by the architect's “Biotop” in white with pink glazing invites you to linger. It is said that witches met with the devil, danced, drank, and held ceremonies here on Mount Domen. The devil is said to have lived in a cave here. Was this perhaps even the entrance to hell? From Domen you have a magnificent view of the fjord, the open sea and the small town of Vardø.

Vardø: Witches, Street Art, Birdwatching

Vardø is the easternmost town in Norway and, along with Hammerfest, it is also the oldest town in northern Norway. Vardø is also the only town on the Norwegian mainland that lies in the Arctic climate zone. This means that the average monthly temperature in July is below 10° Celsius. The most popular sights in Vardø are the memorial to the burning of witches, the Drakkar-Leviathan whale statue, the Vardøhus fortress, and the Pomor Museum, which is dedicated to the history of trade between Norway and Russia in the late 19th/early 20th century. 

Vardøhus Fortress in Vardø

The fortress was completed in 1738 and contains buildings from before 1825. Today it is under the command of the Norwegian Armed Forces and is open to visitors during the day. During the Second World War, the fortress was the last place in Norway to surrender to the Nazis. The town was occupied for five years afterward. Vardøhus Fortress is the northernmost fortress in the world.

Steilneset - in Memory of the Burning of Witches

The area around Vardø was one of the worst in terms of the extent of the brutal witch hunts. The Steilneset memorial in Vardø was erected in memory of the 91 people who were found guilty of witchcraft and burned at the stake. A 100-meter-long corridor tells the stories of the individuals. The texts are based on the old court records. The corridor leads to a room in the middle of which a chair is burning. The flames multiply in hanging mirrors.

Street Art in Vardo

Vardø was once a lively fishing community. But the town's population halved between the 1960s and 2000s, partly due to the collapse of the fishing industry.

Many traditional wooden buildings stood empty and were abandoned. Although they are empty, these listed buildings all have owners who often cannot afford to restore them properly. The idea of the street art project in 2012 was that the art created on these buildings could awaken them from their coma, which gave the art festival its name: “Komafest”.

Hornøya - Birdwatcher's Paradise in the Varanger Fjord

Varanger is one of the 100 best destinations in the world for birdwatching. No other place offers such easy access to the Arctic birdlife. The island of Hornøya in particular is considered a birdwatcher's paradise.

From the port of Vardo, you can cross over to the island of Hornøya several times a day. Incidentally, this was the main reason for my trip to Varanger Fjord. What is there here? Thousands of breeding birds and a path that takes you right through the middle of the breeding colonies. Puffins, shags, guillemots, razorbills, kittiwakes, and many other species breed here close together and try to drown each other out with loud squawking. For the sake of the animals, the path must not be left. At the end of the path, there is a lighthouse where you can spend the night.

Nordpol Kro

Nordpol Kro, located at the harbor, has been around since the middle of the 19th century. This makes it Northern Norway's oldest inn. It is very cozy and you feel like you have been transported back in time when you enter. In 1889, the polar explorer Fritjof Nansen is said to have had his last accommodation here before setting off on the Fram 2 expedition to the North Pole. 

Modern Architecture meets Birdwatching

There are several architectural highlights by Biotop spread across the Varanger peninsula. The architects specialize in photo hides and wind shelters. You will find Biotop birdwatching huts in Vestre Jakobselv, Vadsø, on the island of Ekkerøya, Kiberg, at the Domen witches' dance site, on the island of Hornøya, at the tip of the Steilnesodden headland and in Hamningberg.

Hamningberg, the abandoned Fishing Village at the End of the Road

Hamningberg is an abandoned fishing village. Many of the colorful wooden buildings date from before the Second World War. At that time, around 700 people lived here and the village was one of the largest fishing communities in Finnmark and participated in the Pomor trade. The last three inhabitants left Hamningberg in 1978, but today the settlement is a summer vacation resort and by no means looks deserted.

You can easily plan a whole day for the trip to Hamningberg. The scenery becomes more spectacular with every kilometer and photo stops and breaks to take in the rocky lunar landscape are a must. For example, the beach at Sandfjordneset, where there is even a table and chairs.

The colorful wooden houses of Hamningberg are particularly pretty to look at from the opposite shore. There is a small café with a terrace and a hiking trail to the fortress ruins on the mountain. If you want to stay here overnight, you can do so at the campsite to the west of the village.

Reindeer

In my opinion, the main attraction of Hamningberg was the reindeer, which roamed in small groups between the mountains, the village, and the beach. On a warm summer's day, they were probably looking for a little refreshment by the sea. I imitated the reindeer and also went into the cold water of the Barents Sea. Once you're in, it's not that cold anymore.

Nowhere else in Norway, Sweden, or Finland have I seen so many reindeer as here on the Varanger peninsula. About halfway along the Scenic Route, herds kept roaming left and right of the road. At one point, even our accommodation was surrounded by a grazing herd. The most photogenic, however, were the reindeer at the Hamningberg stand.

Book recommendations for Norway

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

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Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love the north as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about my Husky Guide Training – Two Months with Hetta Huskies in Finland or about Trekking on the Laugavegur in Iceland.

Der Beitrag Varanger Fjord: Hexen, Street Art, Wildlife an der National Scenic Route erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

NorwayBlåisvatnet (“Blue Lake”) is one of the highlights of the Lyngen Alps in northern Norway. Even on a gloomy rainy day, it shines in a bright turquoise blue and puts the icing on the cake of this scenic and varied hike.

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Stony Path to the Blue Lake, Lyngen Alps

But as is so often the case, you first have to work for the view of the beautiful Blue Lake. The 4.2 kilometer long path (one way) leads over the stones of a dry river bed. You can't walk fast here, every step has to be taken carefully. I was glad to be wearing ankle-high, sturdy hiking boots and to have trekking poles with me.

Shortly before the lake, the stones turn into rocks and a bit of climbing is required. But it's worth all the effort! The Blue Lake is the most beautiful thing I've seen in the Lyngen Alps in Norway

The trail starts off easy and comfortable. It goes through a small forest past a river. Even here I can hardly make any progress because of all the photo stops. On the way back, I even see a bunch of reindeer roaming along the riverbank.

Why is Blåisvatnet so blue?

Blåisvatnet is fed by meltwater from the Lenang glacier. Silt particles of quartz and feldspar are carried into the lake with the water and deposited at the bottom. These particles reflect the blue light components of sunlight particularly well, while absorbing other light components.

The “Blue Lake” hike in the Lyngen Alps at a glance

• Length: 8.4 km round trip
• Elevation gain: 189 m
• Duration: 5 to 6 hours
• Best time: In the afternoon and at the beginning of the evening light
• Nature: The path is largely stony.
• Marking: Red markings on cairns and rocks
• Parking: At the trailhead there is a large, paid parking lot “Lyngsalpan” in Sør-Lenangsbotn with WC and information boards. There are barbecue areas and the possibility to camp.

Yes, my pictures are all edited in Lightroom / Photoshop. But the water is really that blue, I didn't do anything to it. I took the darker photos with a gray filter. The blue has become particularly strong in these.

Alternative Route via Aspevatnet

A signposted path leads to the Aspevatnet lake, which does not have such blue water. From there, there is also a path to the blue lake. I have not walked this path, but I want to mention it for completeness.

Are you still looking for accommodation? Then I can highly recommend the old Solhov school in Lyngseidet . It's not around the corner (about an hour's drive) but the accommodation is extremely cozy and conveniently located near the ferry to Olderdalen.

Book recommendations for Norway

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love the north as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about my Husky Guide Training – Two Months with Hetta Huskies in Finland or about Trekking on the Laugavegur in Iceland.

Der Beitrag Wanderung zum Blåisvatnet “Blauer See” in den Lyngenalpen, Norwegen erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Norway. In November, the herring migrate to the sheltered fjords of northern Norway. They are followed by the orcas and the humpback whales. They hunt the herring in the fjords and can be seen in large numbers on some days. One of the best areas to watch orcas at the moment are the waters around Skjervøy. In addition, the small fishing village in the north of Norway is the only place in the world where it is possible to snorkel with orcas.

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What you will read in the following article:

A Guest at the Lunch Table of the Orcas
Orcas, Herrings and Michelin Men/Women
Is Snorkeling with Orcas dangerous?
Winter Whales in Norway on the Polar Front
Regulations when Snorkeling with Orcas
Whale Watching in Norway - When and where?
What else is there in wintry Norway

A Guest at the Lunch Table of the Orcas

The water is deep, dark and cold. Silvery scales swirl around me. Every now and then a dead herring drifts past me, sometimes only half a herring. Everything looks a bit like a battlefield. I lift my head above the surface of the water to get my orientation. In front of me, the dorsal fins of three orcas stick out of the water. They are already quite close. I continue to fin, soon I should be able to see them. I put my head under the water.

First I hear them. Then I see their white bellies and the eye spots light up under water. Slowly the orcas take shape and suddenly I see the bait ball next to me. Then there are more and more orcas. They are everywhere: next to me, under me and some are in the middle of the Bait Ball. While some orcas are circling the bait ball, others are whirling around, swimming a loop and hitting the fish powerfully with their tail fin. They then eat the dead herring. One by one. Right next to me.

What is a bait ball? What is a Bait Ball? A bait ball is formed when small fish swim in a tightly packed spherical formation. It is a last defense measure taken by small schools of fish when threatened by predators. Orcas take advantage of this behavior and herd the herring into bait balls and then specifically strike the fish with their tail fins to kill them.

The three underwater photos of the orcas were taken by Michael Eisenbart. He was one of the five snorkelers in my group. You can find more great underwater photos on his Instagram account @michaels_bubbles and at michaels-bubbles.picfair.com.
Thanks so much again, Michael.

Orcas, Herrings and Michelin Men/Women

It's not so easy when you have so little mobility due to the many layers of insulation in the dry suit. For the orcas I must make a too funny picture. I drift like a Michelin man on the water surface while the elegant animals eat next to me. At some point I realize that we snorkelers are part of the game: the herrings also retreat from us and our fin strokes, we keep the bait ball in shape together with the orcas. Amazing, I still can't believe it. It's like I'm in the middle of a BBC documentary. I can see up to ten orcas at once. There is also a calf.

Sometimes an orca passes me more slowly and inspects me . They don't look at you frontally, but sideways. Since their eyes are on the sides, they can't see well what is directly in front of them. Similar to horses. Some even looked out of the water. Spy hopping is what they call it.

But the school of herring was more interesting than I was and the whales continued their hunt undeterred. It was especially impressive when one of the bulls with his huge dorsal fin passed me by. I'm not quite sure, either my heart was racing at that moment or it stood still while everything flooded in on me: the bait ball, the orcas, the sounds of the orcas, the cold, the darkness and the fish scales swirling through the water like snowflakes . In those minutes I was one of the happiest people in the world.

Is Snorkeling with Orcas dangerous?

When I told my friends and acquaintances about my travel plans to the Winter Whales of Norway, two questions kept coming up:

"Aren't orcas dangerous? What if they want to eat you?"

Each type of orca specializes in the prey available in its particular habitat. Over many generations, this has evolved into very specific feeding habits and hunting techniques . Orcas in Norway eat only herring. However, other orcas, for example in the Pacific, are different: the Southern Residents specialize in salmon, the Transient Orcas in marine mammals, and the Offshore Orcas in sharks. The orcas strongly adhere to their feeding habits. In some cases, they are not anatomically designed to change their diet at all. For example, Southern Residents' teeth and jaws are not strong enough to chew marine mammals. Even when their main food, Chinook salmon, becomes more scarce in their habitat, they do not start eating seals. Rather, they starve to death, which unfortunately is actually already happening.

Read more about the
Orcas in the Salish Sea
and about a
Kayak Tour at the Orcas of the San Juan Islands

"... and the Orca really doesn't eat you?"

The feeding habits aside: Many people believe in a spiritual connection between humans and whales. In some cultures, humans are even descended from whales. Some legends tell of whales coming ashore in human form to seduce young women. There are many more myths surrounding these majestic, clever sea creatures. Is there any truth to it? I don't know, but I find it super exciting and love such stories.

This was one side of the coin. Here comes the other:

Yes, there have been incidents and even deaths by orcas. However, these have happened in aquariums where orcas in captivity have attacked their trainers. No attacks on humans have yet been reported by a wild and free-living orca. You can learn more about this topic in the documentaries Blackfish and Blackfish II (links to YouTube).

The only attacks by wild orcas that I know of occurred in recent years off the Spanish and Portuguese southern coasts on sailboats. In particular, the rudder was attacked. The atypical behavior of the orcas puzzles scientists. Possible explanations are play instinct, learning of hunting strategies, stress or negative experiences with sailboats. More about this can be found on the page Dolphin Protection.

"Never snorkel over the Bait Ball!"

Nevertheless, snorkeling with whales is not completely harmless. The arctic temperatures and the huge wild animals should by no means be underestimated. You can prepare for the temperatures with appropriate equipment. But wild animals remain wild animals. Orcas are extremely agile under water, but who can rule out that the swipe with the tail fin really only hits the herring? And sometimes humpback whales lurk in the depths and steal the herrings from the orcas with their mouths wide open. This all happens very quickly. It's bad luck to end up in the whale's mouth together with the herring. Therefore, our guides told us right at the beginning of the tour: "Never snorkel above the bait ball!

Fortunately, the throat of humpback whales is very narrow. Therefore, they cannot swallow a snorkeler, but rather spit him out again. This actually happened to a snorkeler off South Africa once. Click here to watch the video on YouTube.

"Isn't it cold there in winter? And then in the water as well!"

This question deserves a clear YES. The air temperature during our one-week tour in mid / late November was between 4 and -12° Celsius during the day. The water was between 3 and 4° Celsius. You only go into the water at these temperatures with a dry suit and several layers of insulation underneath. For the head we got a bright orange 10 mm neoprene hood and for the hands thick 3-finger neoprene gloves. Usually the snorkeling equipment including the suit can be rented from the tour provider.

A remaining risk persists.
Minimize it by using good equipment (rental equipment if necessary), practice snorkeling in local waters beforehand, talk to your doctor about snorkeling in cold waters if necessary (not always recommended), be alert underwater, watch your buddies and listen to your guides.

Winter Whales in Norway on the Polar Front

Five days liveaboard on the Polar Front

Five years ago I was already in Tromsø and Andenes to see orcas. But at that time the orcas had already moved further north in mid-February. To increase the probability of seeing them, I decided to go on a whale safari for several days as a "liveaboard" on the Polar Front. So it was possible to follow the orcas to their feeding grounds. To get closer to the orcas or to snorkel with them, we used two Zodiacs.

We saw orcas on four days and humpback whales on four days during the five days aboard the Polar Front. Only one day the weather was so bad that we did not go with the Zodiacs. On two days we were able to accompany the orcas in the Zodiac for a longer time. However, since they swam too fast, there was no possibility to snorkel with the orcas. In fact, this was only possible on one of the five days. Because only when the orcas are hunting or doing their social life, they stay long enough at one place and can be observed while snorkeling.

In the water with Orcas - When one forgets the cold

We went snorkeling twice in a row on that one day. Everything went so fast that I didn't even check the charge of my camera battery (probably my mind was already on the orcas in the water). The first time I had not seen any orcas. But my Go Pro diligently filmed the dark water, scales from the herring, dead herring or parts of herring. Sometimes other snorkelers or the Zodiac. Above water I filmed the snow flurries and sometimes a dorsal fin from an orca. On the second snorkel, my GoPro's battery died. And I was in the middle of the orcas.

Tip: In cold water, the battery of the GoPro lasts much longer when the GoPro is in the underwater housing.

Snorkeling in cold water makes you stiff and without energy. But I noticed that only later. Fortunately, there were helping hands that pulled us snorkelers into the Zodiac later. My hands were icy.

Time to thaw out - back on board

When we were back on board the Polarfont, we were all completely frozen. The breeze on the Zodiac made the -12 °C a bit colder still. The crew helped us take off our gear and we rushed down to our cabins to warm up. My fingertips ached and when I looked in the mirror, I was downright startled: my lips were thickly swollen. I hardly recognized myself. I quickly turned away from the mirror and toward my phone. I wanted to share my joy, but only managed to send a few smilies and whales with my fingers.

Regulations when Snorkeling with Orcas

A dream came true, …

To observe the orcas in their natural habitat was one of my biggest dreams. Our two Zodiacs with six snorkelers each were the only whale watching boats with the orcas that day. Other boats didn't even leave Skiervøy because of bad weather. I did not have the impression that the whales felt disturbed by us. 

... BUT

But of course this can look completely different on other days. In Norway there are no regulations for whale watching or snorkeling with orcas (as of 2022) . It is hard for me to believe that. But how the whale watching is done depends only on the whale watching agency or the boat driver. Anyone can hire a boat in the harbor and be driven out. How successful, whale friendly or safe this is for the snorkelers is then a matter of luck. That's where you come in: research beforehand with which provider you want to make the tour and avoid the too cheap offers.

After a short research on the internet I found some adventurous stories:

• too many boats at one Orca Pod
• Snorkelers jumping from the stern of the boat into the water while the engine is running with the propeller.
• Fishing boats are obstructed by snorkelers getting too close to fishing gear (sometimes to the suction device that sucks the herring from the nets into the boat).
• A boat pulls into the path of migrating orcas to let a snorkeler into the water directly in front of the whales. (We have observed this ourselves).

Meanwhile, there are requirements that whale watching boats and snorkelers must keep a minimum distance from fishing boats.

At the end of 2021, the issue was taken up and discussions about whale watching regulations continued. I hope that sensible rules will be put in place for the benefit of the orcas. At the same time, I also hope that snorkeling with orcas will not be completely banned.

Whale Watching in Norway - When and where?

The orcas follow the schools of herring. They reach the Norwegian fjords at the end of October and stay until about mid-January. However, the exact time period can vary slightly each year.

At the moment the best chances for observation are at Skjervøy. However, this has not always been the case. A few years ago, orcas were frequently seen around Tromsø and Kvaløya (Whale Island), as well as at Andenes in northern Vesterålen. Before that, they were easily seen for a long time much further south on the Tysfjord. However, as the climate has warmed, the herring have moved further and further north. It is possible that they will also eventually move on from Skjervøy.

But although the whales have already moved further north, whale watching tours are still offered from Tromsø*. Since Tromsø is easily accessible via the airport, there are still enough guests here to take the long boat trip from Tromsø to Skjervøy (about 3 hours each way).

It is more relaxing to stay in Skjervøy for a few days and start the whale watching tour from Skjervøy*. Snorkeling tours can be booked at Orca Norway, Lofoten Adventure or at Sea Safari Andenes . However, the accommodations in Skjervøy*are limited. You should book early.

For those who can't get enough and want to maximize their sightings, I recommend a multi-day tour, such as snorkeling with orcas from Waterproof Expeditions on board the Polar Front.

What else is there in wintry Norway

Humpback whales

Besides the orcas, there are also many humpback whales in the winter fjords. They also follow the herring shoals to the north. While I was snorkeling with the orcas in the water, I felt better when there was no humpback whale around. Otherwise, of course, I was always thrilled when I could watch the mighty baleen whales.

See Northern Lights

Number one in northern Norway is, of course, the aurora borealis. On clear days it is very likely that you will see it dancing in the dark night sky. Most of the time it is bright green. Sometimes it can be pink at the edges. With the help of the app "My aurora forecast" you can get an aurora forecast for your current location. This is based on the Kp index, which is a measure of solar activity.

In addition to the aurora borealis, the sunrises and sunsets , as well as the long twilight hours , are particularly beautiful to behold. The low sun makes for great, atmospheric light, which is a real highlight for photographers in particular.

Sea Eagles and Sea Gulls

While the orcas and humpback whales are chasing the herring, sea gulls and sea eagles are attracted. They hope that one or the other herring will fall off for them. So you can often see whales, sea eagles and sea gulls all together at the same time.

Read more about
Tromso in winter, reindeer races in the pedestrian zone and the absolutely worth seeing polar museum.

Book recommendations for Norway

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Have you ever been to Norway in winter? Maybe even snorkeling with orcas? Do you have any questions about my article? If yes, then write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love whales as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about the Beluga Whales of the Solowezki Islands or about a Kayak Tour at the Orcas of the San Juan Islands.

Der Beitrag Am Mittagstisch der Orcas – Schnorcheln mit Orcas in Skjervøy, Norwegen erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

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What you will find in this article:

Lofoten and Vesterålen - what can you expect in Winter?
Road Trip in Winter
The Accommodation - Tradition and cosiness in Rorbu
Stockfish Culture - Fish over fish
Destinations in Winter - Highlights and Tips for Photo Locations
1. Vesterålen - Whales and Sea Eagles in Andenes
2. Fishing Station by Svolvær
3. History of the Lofot Fishing at Lofotmuseet Kabelvåg
4. Fishing Village Henningsvær
5. Nusfjord - one of the most beautiful Places on the Lofoten
6. The Church of Flakstad
7. Kvalvik - Hike to the Bay with Surfer Hut
8. Sildpollnes Chapel at Austnesfjord
9. Fishing Village Å i Lofoten - Fishery Museum
10. Rorbuer of Hamnøy and Reine
11. Northern Lights - Highlight in Winter
Book Recommendations

Lofoten and Vesterålen - what can you expect in Winter?

The snow covers the mountains like a thin layer of icing sugar. From the top of Tjeldbergtinden we can see the rugged landscape of the east coast from afar. We are all alone up here, no other hikers far and wide. What was normal during our hikes in winter, you will experience less often in summer in Lofoten: the feeling of being alone in an untouched nature. Because in the main season from June to August a wave of motorhomes overruns Lofoten. The islands are then close to their capacity limit.

Breathtaking mountain landscapes, deeply incised fjords and white sandy beaches - that is Lofoten. Contemplative fishing villages, colourful wooden houses and fish racks characterise the landscape. The islands are a paradise for nature lovers, hikers and all outdoor enthusiasts. For photographers, the dramatic landscape also provides a perfect backdrop.

The Lofoten - in English "the lynx foot" - lie in Norway between the 67th and 68th degree of latitude. This corresponds to about 100 to 300 km north of the polar circle. The archipelago consists of about 80 individual islands. The main islands are connected by bridges or tunnels. In the north of the Lofoten, the archipelago joins the Vesterålen. Here the landscape is somewhat flatter and there are also good opportunities for whale watching.

Favoured by the Gulf Stream, Lofoten also has a very mild climate in winter. The coldest month is February with an average temperature of -2°C. In the warmest month of July, however, the temperatures are only 12-14 °C.

Since wind and waves mostly come from the west, the eastern sides of the islands are more populated. So you will find most of the villages on the east coast. The landscape becomes more mountainous from north to south and has an alpine character with up to 1,200 metres of altitude.

Road Trip in Winter

For our winter trip to Lofoten and Vesterålen we flew to Bodø and took a rental car there. The tires of the small VW Up had spikes, so that we always felt safe on the icy winding roads. On the way there, we first drove to Tromsø and then over the land connection "Lofast" to the islands. For the way back, we took the ferry from Moskenes up to Bodø. From the ferry, you have then again a great view to the so-called Lofoten wall, thus the mountain panorama of the islands.

We drove the islands from the north of Vesterålen to the southernmost tip of Lofoten. This had the advantage that the landscape became more and more spectacular, as Lofoten gets more and more mountainous and rugged towards the south.

The road conditions were good, but according to the season. Better plan a little more time for the single stages, then you also have more time to drive to the right and enjoy the view over the landscape.

The Lofoten are very popular for photo trips in Norway. Therefore you can see our favourite photo locations on the map next to our route. By clicking on the symbols you can see the photos as a small foretaste.

And if you have a little more time available: How about extending your road trip in Norway a little bit more and visiting Tromsø? Here you can learn more about Tromsø - the gateway to the Arctic.

The Accommodation - Tradition and cosiness in Rorbu

Rorbuer are small huts close to the water, which once served as quarters for the fishermen during the annual cod fishery from January to April. There are rorbuer in the whole north of Norway. Mostly they are associated with the Lofoten. The word is composed of ro (rowing) and bu (living). They are made of wood and usually painted with the then cheap red tran paint as protection. Sometimes they stand halfway in the water on stilts, thus allowing direct access to the boats. Usually several Rorbuer stand at the same time together. They are always a great photo motive and from the inside very comfortable.

The traditional rorbuer consisted of an anteroom for the equipment and a main room. In this room the whole boat crew often slept, cooked and ate. Usually six men belonged to a boat crew. The Lofotmuseet near Kabelvåg shows how such a rorbu was furnished at that time.

King Øystein I had the first Rorbuer built on Lofoten during the early 12th century. Most of them were owned by the village and rented to the fishermen. Some, however, belonged to the fishermen themselves. In the middle of the 20th century, the fishing boats became larger and at the same time became the quarters for the crew. As a result, the rorbuers lost their importance and decayed, many were demolished. In the 60s, however, the conversion of well-preserved rorbuer into modern holiday apartments for tourists began. They offer an original and cosy holiday home, which is also typical for northern Norway.

The Lofoten Fishery - Stockfish and Fish Racks

A sea of fish opens before my eyes. I look closer. On the left rack hang only fish heads, several of them tied together in a bundle. On the frame on the right, on the other hand, the bodies are hanging, each tied together in pairs. It is February and slowly the huge wooden fish racks are filling up, which you can discover almost everywhere on Lofoten and are a classic highlight of the islands. Until around June, the fish remain hanging in the open air and dry during this time in Lofoten's special maritime climate to become a regional speciality.

Besides tourism, fishing is the main source of income in Lofoten and also has a long tradition. Lured by the protected bays of the archipelago and the warm waters of the Gulf Stream, cod from the Barents Sea come to Lofoten every year between January and April to spawn.

Along with the cod, fishermen from all parts of the country came to the north of Norway for the annual Lofoten fishery and with hope of a big catch. Lofoten fishing has a long tradition, going back about 1000 years. The abundance of fish has thus made Lofoten fishing world famous. The caught fish is then dried and processed into stockfish. It is a durable and popular food.

You can try stockfish in the local restaurants. There are different variations on offer, depending on the time the fish is hung. The cod tongues are something very special and especially popular with the fishermen's children.

Towards the end of the 19th century more than 30,000 fishermen were counted during the main fishing season. Today about 5,000 Lofoten people still work full-time as fishermen. But Lofot fishing is no longer what it once was. Only larger towns like Svolvær can make a living from fish processing. Smaller towns, on the other hand, make a living from tourism or aquaculture.

Destinations in Winter - Highlights and Tips for Photo Locations

Now it goes into detail and there is plenty of inspiration for your travel planning. Here I tell you about the highlights of our trip to Lofoten and Vesterålen in winter. From our most beautiful destinations, our hikes, whale sightings and our favourite photo locations. I start in the northern part of Vesterålen and follow the route marked on the map to the southernmost village of Lofoten, with the catchy name Å.

1. Vesterålen - Whales and Sea Eagles in Andenes

The little village Andenes on the Vesterålen was actually the main reason for our whole trip. Only here was it possible to snorkel with orcas. You have read correctly. Snorkeling with orcas in ice-cold water, in the middle of winter, 300 km north of the Arctic Circle. Wrapped up warm in thermal underwear and dry suit including hood and gloves we went on a search for orcas. In winter the orcas follow the herring into the bays in the north of Norway. However, as is often the case in nature, the movements of the animals are not exactly predictable. Unfortunately we had bad luck and did not see any orcas. But at the same time we were lucky, because we could watch several sperm whales and sea eagles during our boat trip.

The team of Sea Safari Andenes has offered these tours in Andenes for many years. However, as the orcas are now less frequently sighted off Andenes, the snorkel tours are now available a little further north in Skjervøy. But only in the months of November and December. If you want to snorkel with orcas, contact Sea Safari Andenes in advance and ask for the periods with the best chances of sightings.

2. Fishing Station by Svolvær

On the island of Kieøya, west of Svolvær, there are many great photo opportunities. Most impressive I found the drying racks for the stockfish, most of which were fully loaded. You can also discover bunkers from the Second World War or walk along the pier to the foremost point where the statue of a fisherwoman stands.

3. History of the Lofot Fishing at
Lofotmuseet Kabelvåg

In this partly open-air and partly indoor museum you can immerse yourself in the time of the Lofot fishing. There are several north land boats to see as well as traditionally furnished rorbuer and boathouses. On the hillside above the rorbuer, the main building from 1815 is on display, and Lofotmuseet Kabelvåg has an exhibition about fishing in Lofoten, harbours and coastal lighthouses and traditional handicrafts.

4. Fishing Village Henningsvær

The small fishing village Henningsvær has just 510 inhabitants. It lies on two offshore islands at the southern tip of the island Austvågøya. It is accessible via bridges and the drive to Henningsvær alone is impressive. At the entrance to the village, the car can be parked on a large car park, then you can continue on foot along fishing huts to the harbour. Here you have a great view of the colourful fishing boats. If you follow the road, you will first come to a football field with artificial grass and then to the fish racks behind it. Here a wild scenery opens up with great photo opportunities of rocks, cliffs and half overturned fish racks. Henningsvær is also popular with divers and snorkelers.

5. Nusfjord - one of the most beautiful Places on the Lofoten

The small village of Nusfjord is said to be one of the most beautiful on Lofoten. Because yellow and red painted Rorbuer from the 18th/19th century line up photogenic on the shore of the fjord. In 1823 and 1843 the Dahl family bought the village and finally developed it into Lofoten's leading fishing village by 1989. Today the village is an open-air museum whose buildings can be visited in summer for an entrance fee. Many of the Rorbur are now converted into holiday homes. There is a path over wooden footbridges up to a small lookout point on the rock.

The village of Nusfjord and Nesland are connected by a historic fishing trail. Today this path is a marked hiking trail, which we have walked about halfway from Nesland. Softened paths and snowstorm forced us to turn back.

6. The Church of Flakstad

The red wooden church was built in 1780 in cross style and can accommodate about 300 people. Unfortunately it was locked and we could not see it from inside. But also from the outside it is an atmospheric photo motive with its red wooden panels, white window frames and the small onion tower.

7. Kvalvik - Hike to the Bay with Surfer Hut

Der Film “North of the sun”

those of you who were at the E.O.F.T. (European Outdoor Film Tour) in 2014 already know it: Kvalvika Bay (Whale Bay) on the east side of Moskenesøya island. And you also know the movie "North of the sun" from the two surfers Inge Wegge and Jørn Nyseth Ranum. The two Norwegians lived one winter in a self-built hut on the beach. During this time they lived on expired food, which they were allowed to take from the shops for free. Without comfort or support they finally lived for nine months in a barren secluded bay north of the Arctic Circle. They surfed where the best waves are to be found, especially in winter. And they also collected washed up garbage. At the end of their stay, a helicopter carried away a total of three tons.

We were impressed by its history and started to look for the small hut. It is still standing on the same spot and is freely accessible. It is fully equipped with a small stove, mats and blankets. There are also photos hanging on the walls. Next to it there is a note on which Inge and Jørn tell their story. Visitors are invited to stay overnight. Another note motivates people to keep the project alive, do their part and fill a garbage bag with washed up waste. A great project, I think, which shows once again how little you can be happy with. And how easy it is to do something good for nature. If you don't know the film yet, take a look at www.northofthesun.no.     

Hike to the bay and hut

The hike to Kvalvika Bay is one of the highlights of Lofoten and is also easy to do in winter. The bay can only be reached on foot or by boat and offers great camping possibilities. The starting point is a small car park about 3 km behind the village of Fredvang and the trail starts on the opposite side of the road and cannot be missed. It leads first over stone slabs and through a small birch forest. Soon the area becomes swampy and wooden planks are laid out. A somewhat steeper ascent follows and after about 45 minutes the highest point is reached. Soon the view of the bay opens up. The path up and down is rocky and not exactly defined. But the direction is clearly visible. After about two kilometers and 160 meters of altitude difference you have reached the beach. You will find the hut if you keep left, about halfway between the mountains and the beach.

8. Sildpollnes Chapel at Austnesfjord

Coming from the north, there is a rest area on the left side of the road with a view of the Austnesfjord. From here you have a great view of the Sildpollnes Chapel. The view is especially beautiful in the evening hours when the sky is changing colour.

9. Fishing Village Å i Lofoten - Fishery Museum

The Norwegian Fishery Museum in Å i Lofoten is more of a museum village. The 23 museum buildings are distributed around the harbour. On display are fishermen's cabins (rorbuer), boathouses, a blacksmith's shop, a trankochery and a bakery. Besides boats, there is also a wide range of fishing equipment on display and there are great opportunities for detailed photos of nets or buoys. Especially in rainy weather a visit to the museum is an interesting option. The buildings are 100 to 200 years old and their colouring traditionally indicates their intended function. The houses of the village owners are painted in white, those of the merchants in blue and those of the fishermen in red.

10. Rorbuer of Hamnøy and Reine

The rorbuer of Hamnøy is one of the most popular photo locations in Lofoten. Both by day and by night and in the best case with northern lights the view is fantastic. The red rorbuer are dominated by the 700 m high Lilandstinden.

The small fishing village of Hamnøy is situated on the dam-connected island of Hamnøya at the beginning of the Reinefjord. Hamnøy is one of the most traditional fishing villages in Moskenesøy. The rorbuer are now furnished as holiday homes.

The journey to the neighbouring village Reine is over 3 bridges. On the way there you can see the beautiful yellow painted rorbuer of Sakrisøy (see cover picture). From the last bridge before Reine you also have a great view of the rorbuer of Reine.

11. Northern Lights - Highlight in Winter

They are among the most beautiful experiences you can have in the north in winter. An absolute highlight on Lofoten and Vesterålen in winter. The northern lights, also called Aurora Borealis. They robbed me of my sleep, because when they appeared, I could not tear myself away. And if they did not appear, then at least I had to constantly look out of the window to check them.

There are several Auroral Forecast Appsto make your search easier. It informs you how high the probability for aurora is at your location. The app uses the so-called KP index for this purpose. Furthermore, the app offers you a forecast for the coming hours and days. Of course, the weather forecast is also important. Because when it's cloudy, the northern lights are unfortunately hidden behind the clouds. The degree of cloudiness can vary depending on the location. Therefore, it is definitely worthwhile to have a look at the forecast in the neighbouring villages.

Book Recommendations

The Lofot Fishermen - The last Viking by Johann Beuer

The novel from the year 1924 describes very vividly the Lofoten fishing and the life of the fishermen at that time. It gives an insight into the fates of the fishermen and lets you experience Lofoten even more intensely. You will visit villages described in the novel and see the Rorbuer houses with different eyes.

Unfortunately the book is out of print and can only be purchased as a used copy, e.g. from Amazon* .

Story line of the novel: Kristaver Myran fährt mit seiner Mannschaft zum alljährlichen Lofot-Fischfang. Ersatmals nutz er sein neues Boot “Robbe” und erstmals ist auch sein ältester Sohn Lars dabei. Es geht um Fischfang und Geld, Kälte und Sturm, Rorbuer und Boote, Heimweh und Überlebenskampf. Doch die Lofotfischer kämpfen nicht nur gegen Sturm und Wellen an. Sie erkämpfen sich auch Zugang zum Trollfjord, dessen Einfahrt im Winter 1890 von Dampfbooten blockiert wurde. Denn diese wollten den Trollfjord mit Senknetzen selber abfischen, die Nordlandboote sollten hingegen nur gegen Bezahlung fischen dürfen. Berühmt wurde dieser Kampf als “Die Schlacht vom Trollfjord”. Es war der erste große Kampf zwischen kapitalkräftigen Unternehmen und einfachen Fischern um die Ressourcen des Meeres.

back to the table of contents

Lofoten: With 12 Island Routes, 20 Walks by Michael Möbius and Annette Ster

The standard work on the Lofoten Islands. It contains articles about the country and its people, geology, climate and weather, flora and fauna, art, fishing and angling. The practical part continues with information about travel preparations, accommodation, food and drink and activities. The book also describes 12 island routes, including the so-called whale route to neighbouring Vesterålen. The book concludes with descriptions of 20 walks in the mountains between fjords: different levels of difficulty including all necessary information.

Available at Amazon*

Rother Hiking Guide Lofoten and Vesteralen by Andrea Kostial and Tobias Kostial

The Rother Hiking Guide "Lofoten and Vesterålen" presents the 60 most beautiful tours north of the Arctic Circle. The routes range from family-friendly coastal walks to demanding mountain climbs. The book provides all the important information about the infrastructure of each hike, along with precise route descriptions, map sections with drawn-in routes and meaningful altitude profiles. GPS tracks are available for download from the Bergverlag Rother website.

Available at Amazon*

Have you ever been to Lofoten yourself, maybe even in winter? How did you like it? Do you have any questions about my article or further suggestions? If so, please write me a comment!

Recommendations for further Reading

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Der Beitrag Lofoten und Vesterålen – Highlights im Winter erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

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What you will find in this article

Winter Boat Trip on the Fjords
See Northern Lights
Reindeer Race through Tromsø's Pedestrian Zone
Reindeer Sledge Ride under the Northern Lights
The "Gateway to the Arctic" - Polar History at the Polar Museum in Tromsø

Winter Boat Trip on the Fjords

When I planned our trip to Tromsø in winter, the boat trips were the first priority. As in the winter time, it is possible to see orcas in the fjords around Tromsø. The whales follow the migrations of the herring shoals. Between November and January they are then in the fjords near Tromsø and can often be seen close to land. But a little luck is always part of it. This is unfortunately the case with animal observations. When we were in Tromsø at the beginning of February, the whales had unfortunately already moved on.

We made the trip by boat anyway and did not regret it at all. The landscape is breathtakingly beautiful and we saw many sea eagles. Our trip over the fjords started in Lauklines. Here we were still provided with a thermal suit and warm boots, because on the boat it became bitterly cold after a while. As it should be for the Arctic.

If you want to try to see the orcas yourself, it is best to ask the organizer of the boat tours which months he would recommend. The routes of the herrings change over the years and so do the routes of the orcas. Read more in my article At the Orcas' Lunch Table - Snorkeling with Orcas In Skiervøy, Norway.

You are interested in whale-watching in winter? Then my article about Lofoten and Vesterålen might be something for you.

See Northern Lights

If you think of the Arctic in winter, you usually think of white snowy landscapes and northern lights. In green bands they move slowly across the sky and always amaze me. The mystical light plays in the night sky are simply beautiful. Sometimes there are even purple stripes at the edges.

Excursus: The Colours of the Northern Lights
Aurora Borealis is created when electrons from the solar wind meet gas molecules in the Earth's atmosphere. The molecules are electrically charged and excited to glow. Red, green or blue light is produced. There are also mixed colours such as violet, white and yellow. The colour depends on the height at which the electrons hit the atmosphere. Because the atmosphere has a different gas composition depending on the altitude. At an altitude of 80 to 150 kilometres, the oxygen content is higher and green light is produced. In contrast, at an altitude of 150 to 600 kilometres there are more nitrogen atoms and red and blue light is produced.

If you want to observe northern lights it is best to drive a little out of the city. Because the further away you are from the city, the less light pollution there is and the more intense the northern lights are visible. If you don't have your own vehicle, you can also join an organized aurora borealis tour.

In any case I can recommend a Prediction App. It informs you how high the probability for aurora borealis is at your location. The app uses the so-called KP-Index for this purpose. Furthermore the app offers you a forecast for the coming hours and days.

To take pictures of the aurora, you need a tripod and a fast lens. You should set the iso-value of your camera with open aperture so that the image noise does not affect the image quality. This varies from camera to camera.

Reindeer Race through Tromsø's Pedestrian Zone

Every year on a Sunday in February the pedestrian zone in Tromsø is transformed into a race track. In the middle of the Storgata, snow is piled up, at the northern end start boxes are set up and at the southern end the finish line is marked out.

I had no idea before how fast reindeer can run. They live up to their name. After the start signal they jump out of their pits and it goes in wild speed along the Storgata. They are driven by a slim rider who is pulled behind them on skis. Every year the 12 fastest races from Norway and Finland are at the start.

The race is the absolute highlight of the Sami week, which you must not miss. But the other events of the festival are also worthwhile and give you an insight into Sami culture. Sami (outdated Lapp) is the name of the indigenous population of the Arctic area of Sápmi. In honour of their culture, the Sami Week is celebrated in Tromsø every year at the beginning of February.

Throughout the week there is a varied cultural programme, including exhibitions, language courses, concerts and the Norwegian championship in lasso throwing. The Arctic market at the northern end of the Storgata offers traditional handicrafts and Sami food in lavvu (Sami tent). Here you can try bidos (reindeer meat stew) and lefse (soft flatbread made from potatoes) or try the super warm Sami woollen gloves.

Reindeer Sledge Ride under the Northern Lights

Enthusiastic about the fast reindeer that were racing in the Storgata, I booked a reindeer sleigh ride. At the tourist information at the Roald Amundsen Square there are offers for trips during daylight or in the evening with the chance of seeing northern lights. We started the same evening and after about an hour of driving we reached Camp Tamok.

It was -20°C. We were a bit away from Tromsø but I felt as if I had just walked through the gate to the Arctic. It was already dark and the sky was starry. After we were equipped with warm thermo suits and boots, we started. First we had to catch two reindeer. I had quite a lot of respect for the protruding antlers and hoped the animal would know how big it is. Not that it would run around me. But I didn't have to worry, because the animal stopped well-behaved and I was able to attach the rope to the halter. Proudly I led the reindeer to the sleigh. Each animal should pull one of the wooden sledges.

The Reindeer Sledge

The reindeer sleigh is a traditional means of transport for the Sami people. It was important in connection with nomadic reindeer husbandry, where shepherds followed the reindeer on their migrations. While reindeer were once used as draught or pack animals, nowadays tamed reindeer are used in sports or tourism.

Progress has been slow. But it was just the right speed to enjoy everything. Because above us the northern lights were moving in the starry sky. To the left and right of us were small snow-covered trees. The stars reflected in their icy branches and made them sparkle like Christmas trees. And in front of us the reindeer puffed, its breath condensed in the cold, dry air. A kitschy and beautiful experience!

To warm up, we had coffee and stories about life as reindeer herders in the traditional lavvu.

Reindeer Breeding

The beginnings of reindeer husbandry date back to the 15th century. In the 17th century, it became the livelihood of the mountain herders. Today, only a few Sami are still breeding. For economic reasons, however, it was intensified and the herds grew larger and larger. More than 500,000 reindeer live in the whole of Sápmi. The number of animals is now so high that their main food, lichen, can hardly grow back.

Mining, wind farms and conflicts with forest owners affect the reindeer economy. Climate change is also affecting the herds, as the animals no longer get enough food. Even under metres of snow the animals can track down lichens and mosses and dig them out with their hooves. However, when the snow becomes warm, too wet and then freezes again, a layer of ice forms which the reindeer cannot break through.

The "Gateway to the Arctic" - Polar History at the Polar Museum

The Polar Museum was opened in 1978 and is dedicated to hunting, fishing and research in the Arctic. Among other things, it reports on Norwegian polar expeditions and the history of the discovery of the North Pole. The museum building is located in a former customs building from 1833, which was used by customs as a warehouse and administration building until 1970. It is one of a series of pier houses that have been listed as historical monuments since 2000.

The exhibitions cover the following topics:

• Hibernation and hunting in the Arctic
• Hunter Henry Rudi, who killed 713 polar bears
• “Der” erste weibliche Überwinterer – Wanny Woldstad
• Fridtjof Nansens and Roald Amundsen's life and expeditions
• Helmer Hansen and Hjalmar Johansen, who accompanied Amundsen to the South Pole
• The discovery of Spitsbergen by Willhelm Barentsz in the 16th century, whaling in the 17th and 18th centuries and the Russian way of winter hunting
• Changing exhibitions under the roof of the warehouse

Thanks to its proximity to the Arctic, Tromsø has become the starting point for many polar expeditions. At the end of the 19th century, at the time of the great polar expeditions, Tromsø developed into the "Gateway to the Arctic". The Fram Expedition (1893 - 1896) of Fridtjof Nansen as also the expeditions of Roald Amundsen with the ship Maud (1918 - 1921) and with the flying boat Latham 47 (1928) are specially exciting.

Fram expedition of Fridtjof Nansen (1893 - 1896)

The Fram Expedition (1893 - 1896) of Fridtjof Nansen made a stopover in Tromsø. Via Vardø the Fram sailed along the Siberian coast to the New Siberian Islands. The aim of the journey was to reach the geographical North Pole by means of natural ice drift. For this purpose, the ice-strengthened ship was frozen in pack ice and drifted for about three years to Spitsbergen. In August 1896, the Fram returned to Tromsø. The ship did not reach the geographic North Pole. But Nansen and Johansen started the attempt to reach the geographic North Pole on foot. But after a march of approximately four weeks, they decided to turn back. They did not reach the geographical North Pole, but they set the North Record of that time. After spending the winter in the Franz-Josef Archipelago, they reached the port of Vardø in August 1896 on Frederik Jackson's ship Winward.

Maud expedition of Roald Amundsen (1918 - 1921)

On 16 June 1918 the ship Maud left Roald Amundsen in Tromsø and sailed northeast. The plan was to penetrate the ice in the eastern Arctic and drift with the ice to the North Pole for four or five years. However, the expedition did not go according to plan. After three overwinters in the ice and crossing the Northeast Passage, the Maud reached Seattle in 1921.

Rescue Mission of Roald Amundsen with the flying Boat (1928)

On June 18, 1928, Roald Amundsen set off with the flying boat of type Latham 47 to rescue Umberto Nobile. His airship Italia had previously crashed on an ice floe. Amundsen did not return from his search for Nobile. His flying boat was lost near the Bear Islands, the wreckage has not yet been found.

Book recommendations for Norway

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Have you ever been to Norway in winter? Maybe even in Tromsø? Do you have any questions about my article? If so, please write me a comment!

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Greenland in Winter

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