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Autumn in Finland's wild Taiga

Autumn begins early in eastern Finland. As early as September, the birch trees turn golden, the nights grow long, and the northern lights appear in the clear night sky. The bears prepare for their winter hibernation and eat their fill of blueberries to build up a thick layer of fat. I, on the other hand, prepare myself with my down jacket, sleeping bag, hat, and thermos for several cold nights in photo hides at four different locations in eastern Finland. Not every hide is equipped with heating. Most are simple wooden shacks or small huts, sometimes with a bed or bunk bed, or just a soft floor mat. Each one is unique in its own way, sometimes very cozy, sometimes a real pain in the neck.

Karhu-Kuusamo – Finland's northernmost Bear Photography Hide

When I arrive at the Karhu-Kuusamo meeting point, the forest is quiet. I park my car in a small space and watch a jay in the tree opposite. I look around and only when I am sure that there is no bear behind the next tree do I get out and point my camera at the raven. But it hears the two cars approaching ahead of me and takes off. It brought me luck – from now on, it would only be half an hour before I saw my first brown bear in the wild.

My first Photo Hide for viewing Bears near Kuusamo

The Karhu-Kuusamo observation hides are located about a 30-minute drive from Kuusamo and are the northernmost photo hides for bear viewing in all of Finland. The season lasts from early May to late September, and the sighting probability is 99%. The five hides are wooden huts of varying sizes overlooking a dark pool, a boggy swamp, and the forest beyond. I share a small hide with another visitor. The atmosphere is tense as we set up our cameras on the beanbags and our guide lays out treats for the bears outside, 20 to 60 meters away from the huts. It doesn't take long before I feel completely overwhelmed by the huge bear that suddenly appears at the edge of the forest. But the animals are smart; they know when the restaurant opens for them.

This first encounter with a wild brown bear in its natural habitat is a moment that stays with me for a long time. After a few minutes, the big guy disappears back into the dense forest, and I begin to settle into the photo hide. Then, almost hesitantly, a female with particularly light, shimmering blond fur appears at the edge of the forest. At her side is a cub, peeking cautiously out from behind its mother. Above them, several sea eagles sit in the treetops, waiting for their chance. Ravens circle the area, commenting on the spectacle with hoarse caws.

The Sky is wild, too

It's not just the forests that are wild in Finland – the sky is too. During my observations, I repeatedly saw white-tailed eagles circling above the clearings or sitting in the trees. The white-tailed eagle(Haliaeetus albicilla)is one of the largest birds of prey in Europe. It was once almost extinct, but thanks to consistent conservation measures, populations in Finland have recovered. Today, it can be found regularly on lakes and along the Baltic Sea coast – but it also occasionally appears inland, searching for carrion or fish.

Night in the Bear Forest

As darkness falls, our guide knocks on the door of the hut, which we have locked from the inside. For me, it's now time to move on to the largest of the observation huts, where I will spend the night. He himself will leave the area with the other guests. The thought of being alone in the middle of bear territory makes me a little nervous. I push my excitement aside and get my camera ready while there is still a little bit of light left. Just in time, because the big male bear is already coming back, looking for more pieces of fish. He comes within a few meters of the hut. I hear his footsteps in the muddy swamp, his panting, chewing, and suddenly a deep growl that sends shivers down my spine. I sit still, listen, and feel a rollercoaster of absolute fascination and goosebumps. It's a good thing the hide is so solid and sturdy.

Only when it is pitch black outside do I crawl into one of the four bunk beds. Surprisingly quickly, I fall into a deep sleep. Maybe it's the tiredness, maybe it's the security of the hide. In the morning, I leave the hut and lock the door from the outside. On the way to my car, I hum a song, hoping to scare away any bears on the way between the hut and my car.

For more information on bear watching from Finland's northernmost photo hide, visit the Karhu-Kuusamo website..

Wild Brown Bear Center – three Days with Bears and Wolverines

My journey continues south, where I have booked three days at the Wild Brown Bear Center near Vartius. A large observation hut and several small photo hides offer unobstructed views of the marsh, lake, and forest in the border region between Finland and Russia. There is even cell phone reception in the hides, and all guests are connected in a WhatsApp group. We want to use it to communicate sightings and the movements of wild animals, helping us to look in the right direction and not miss anything.

At around 4 p.m., we set off for the hides, which are about 700 meters away and designed for one to two people. There is a bunk bed, chairs, sleeping bags, and a toilet bucket. I attach my tripod head to a wooden board at the viewing slit, settle in, and wait for a bear to appear.

A Wolverine says Hello

The first evening in the hide remains quiet and without sightings. After an equally quiet night, I pack up my camera equipment and am about to leave the hide. A dark brown body darts out of the shadows and runs along the opposite shore of the lake. Just as quickly as it appeared, it disappears again. Gulo gulo, known in English as the wolverine or bear marten, is one of the rarest predators in Europe. Gulo gulo, zu Deutsch Vielfraß oder auch Bärenmarder, ist einer der am seltensten beobachteten Beutegreifer Europas.

We wait, hoping that the wolverine will reappear. Unfortunately, to no avail. At 8 a.m., the agreed time, we guests all leave our hiding places at the same time and meet in the common room for breakfast.

The next two days follow the same pattern: in the afternoon, after an early dinner, we head out to the hiding places, wait for the animals in the evening, spend the night in the hiding place, and return to base camp in the morning for breakfast. During the day, I go for walks in the area, photograph birds at the feeding station, or look through the photos from the previous evening in my room or the lounge.

An underrated Loner

While bears are the center of attention here, the wolverine often remains in the shadows. Unfairly so. With its muscular body, powerful jaws, and sharp claws, it moves effortlessly through the terrain. It is a scavenger, but also a hunter that can kill weakened reindeer, hares, or birds.

On the second day, I see the wolverine again and manage to take a photo of the nimble creature. But it is only later, quite a bit further south, at Erä-Eereo near Lieksa, that I am able to observe and photograph the wolverine at length. The night vision device I borrowed opens up a view into a dark, hidden world that is teeming with life. In addition to the wolverine, I also see wolves, a bear that immediately disappears back into the thicket, and various bird species such as ravens, jays, white-tailed eagles, and sparrowhawks. Read more in my separate article “Rendezvous in the forest – With the wolverine in Finland's wild taiga.”

The Bear comes to say Goodbye

On the last evening, I am back in another hide, looking out over a small lake surrounded by forest. The long-awaited bear arrives within the first hour. It is slightly smaller than the bears I saw in Kuusamo. It is a brief but wonderful and intense encounter, and afterwards I watch with great satisfaction as the sun sets behind the forest and darkness falls outside.

More information about bear watching can be found on the Wild Brown Bear Center website.

Wildlife Safaris Finland – A Paradise for Wildlife Photographers near Kuhmo

Paradise is the name of the third location where I am setting up a photo hide in Finland. It is one of 20 hides belonging to Wildlife Safaris Finland's Kuikka Base Camp, located in the border region with Russia. The station is run by renowned nature photographer Lassi Rautiainen, a pioneer of bear photography in Europe. Although the border crossings between Finland and Russia are currently closed, there is no border fence up here, unlike in southern Finland. Bears and wolves pass through unhindered, as they always have. Visitors who want to come to this border region must register their stay with the Finnish authorities in advance, which the tour operator does a few days before arrival.

Before heading out to the hide, I cook some pasta outside at the picnic area with my Trangia stove. Freshly fortified, I pack my thermos, sandwiches, camera equipment, and sleeping bag. At around 4 p.m., our guide drives ahead through the forest. We guests follow in our own cars to “Paradise,” a row of huts on the edge of a huge grassy plain flanked by pine, spruce, and birch forests. The landscape shimmers in shades of yellow and ochre – autumn is unmistakably on its way.

There is no light or electricity out here. Luxury here means being close to nature. This is the smallest hut I have ever stayed in. I can't stand up here, but I can lie comfortably on a soft foam mat and take photos from a worm's-eye view or sit upright on a chair. In the vestibule there is a toilet bucket, separated from the realm of the bears only by a tarpaulin. I have never been so alert when going to the toilet. Our guide explains how to use the gas stove (there is still a little bit of luxury) and then goes outside to scatter pieces of fish and dog food pellets on the meadow. With his quad bike and trailer, he takes a pig carcass further away from the huts. Attracted by the food, it doesn't take long for the first bear to appear. Shortly after him, the wolves enter the scene. Ravens settle down all around, cawing loudly.

When the Wolf shows up

Well camouflaged in the tall grass, I see my first wolf in Finland. Shortly afterwards, a second one appears, then a third. Over the course of the evening, I count seven young wolves, accompanied by their mother. The adolescents romp across the clearing, playfully wrestling and snapping at their siblings, storming through the meadow like exuberant teenagers. Two of the young wolves come very close to the huts and search for dog food pellets in the tall grass. I watch them spellbound, and every now and then, one of them looks directly into my camera. What I would give to be able to read wolves' minds. By 10 p.m., it is finally so dark that I can no longer see anything. I crawl into my sleeping bag. Outside, I hear the wilderness continuing to live.

I wake up with the first light of dawn. The wolves are already awake too; I can see them in the distance, just before the edge of the forest. Now they are all together, resting next to a tree trunk. I wish they would come back to the huts, but unfortunately, it's in vain. With a heavy heart, I pack my things and say a very grateful goodbye to “Paradise.” What I didn't know that morning was that in a few days, I would see wolves again at Erä-Eereo near Lieksa.

More information is available on the Wildlife Safaris Finland website.

Responsibility of Photographers

As a wildlife photographer, you have a great responsibility towards the animals you want to photograph. Even though the photo hides with their small viewing windows are designed to disturb the animals as little as possible, you must be aware of the possible effects. Therefore, each of the photo hides has its own rules, which must be strictly observed by every guest. Failure to comply can not only disturb or scare away the animals, but also pose a danger to life and limb. Before entering the hide, ask the operator for instructions, ask questions if anything is unclear, and familiarize yourself with the area and the behavior of the animals beforehand.

Nature photographers are automatically ambassadors for nature and conservation. High-quality images can help raise awareness of the need to protect these animals and generate positive attention for the preservation of wilderness areas. Ultimately, nature photography and wildlife tourism also bring additional income to the region and strengthen the acceptance of large predators among the population. For example, the illegal killing of wolves in Kuhmo has decreased thanks to wildlife tourism, as local people have come to understand how important living wolves are.

Proper Behavior when photographing Wildlife from a Hide in Finland

• Be quiet, ideally prepare everything for the evening/night so that everything is ready to hand. Avoid opening loud Velcro fasteners or zippers. Set your cell phone to silent mode.
• No loud crackling food packaging – ask if bringing food is allowed at all.
• Set your camera to silent mode (in some hides, photography with loud SLR cameras is even prohibited).
• Do not use flash, headlamps, or other lights outside or inside the hide.
• No additional attractants or food outside the controlled areas.
• No strong-smelling food, perfumes, or mosquito repellent.
• Wear dark clothing to avoid reflections on the viewing glass.
• Do not let camera parts hang out of the hide.
• No sudden movements.
• No dogs allowed.
• Do not leave the hide until the agreed time.

A Place that transforms

Every night in the photo hide in Finland's wild east brought unforgettable encounters and new experiences. If you want to observe animals in the wild, you have to adapt to the rhythm of nature. That means long periods of waiting, silence, and then the big moment. The observation huts are simple, cramped, and not very comfortable. But what they lack in comfort is more than made up for by the proximity to the animals and the intensity of the observations. You sit there, looking outside, camera at the ready, and then suddenly a wolf, bear, wolverine, or eagle comes into view.

The time spent in the photo hides has changed my awareness of wild animals. After the physical proximity, the personal experience leaves me with a psychological closeness to bears, wolves, wolverines, and eagles, and I carry the experiences of these days in the taiga like a little treasure in my memory. I had taken many, many pictures and was already looking forward to seeing the animals again at home on my sofa.

More Information about the Animals

Metsähallitus Parks & Wildlife Finland: https://www.largecarnivores.fi/species/wolverine.html

IUCN Red List: https://www.iucnredlist.org/species/9561/45198537

Book recommendations for Finland

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

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Der Beitrag Finnlands wilder Osten – Bären, Wölfe und Vielfraße aus Fotoverstecken beobachten erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Finland. It is dark. I am alone in my small photography hideout in the middle of the Finnish taiga. Only the gas stove burns quietly in the background. But then – a smacking sound breaks the nighttime silence. It is quite close. I get up and quietly switch on the night vision device that is tucked into one of the window slits. A wolverine. Less than five meters away, a massive, muscular, thick-furred fur, individual raindrops glistening on the tips of its hair. Its powerful teeth tug at a piece of meat that it holds with one paw. It looks up briefly, its eyes white in the night vision device, staring at me. Goosebumps run down my spine. Then it continues eating. Shortly afterward, the chattering of a family of mallards fills the darkness.

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Autumn in the wild Taiga

I am traveling through the Finnish taiga, near Lieksa in the east of the country. It is autumn, the time of ruska, when birch trees glow golden and the moors shine in all shades of red. The nights are already quite cold, and there are no more mosquitoes. Mushrooms are sprouting, lingonberries and blueberries are ripe, and end up in my cereal every morning. Today, my path takes me along gravel roads deep into the dense forest to the base camp of Eero Kortelainen, alias Erä-Eero. Keljänpuro Lodge is an old logger's cabin from the 1950s that was renovated by Eero himself. Eero initially offered various outdoor activities here, and since 2005 he has also been offering wildlife viewing. Over the years, Erä-Eero has become known as the world's best place to observe wolverines, a shy and rare animal that is difficult to observe in the wild. There are observation huts and photo hides at various locations, where I have settled in for the next two nights.

Welcome to Erä-Eraeo

I am warmly welcomed with steaming coffee. Keljänpuro Lodge is rustic and cozy, and the animal pictures on the walls make me want to set off on a wildlife viewing trip right away. But first, Sini gives me a briefing. I learn more about the hides, the rules to follow there, and how my evening and the next morning will unfold. Then I borrow a pair of night vision goggles and pack my snack box and thermos flask into my car. Eero and Sini drive ahead, and I follow in my own car. After about six kilometers, we pass a barrier and park our cars in front of a small wooden hut at Uuronlampi, a beautiful moorland lake surrounded by high hills.

I climb out, excited. The wooden hut is a luxurious observation hut with large windows, comfortable armchairs, and a stove. From here, you can look down a slope to a meadow, behind which lies a small lake. To the right are three small photo hides, and to the left of the meadow is the forest. As I am the only guest, I have free choice and select the rear photo hide with a view of the lake and meadow. While Eero and Sini lay out food to attract the animals, I settle into my hide. The cameras are quickly put in position, and the bed and two chairs are covered with all sorts of stuff. It takes a while to get everything in the right place for the night, so that I can find it even in the dark. Because at night, the lights stay off. Otherwise, I'll scare away the wild animals. I turn on the small gas stove and inspect the toilet bucket behind the curtain. Everything you need is there.

Encounters in the Dark

No sooner have Eero and Sini disappeared in their car than calm returns. Only ravens and jays can be heard, their cawing echoing across the lake. After a while, a dark shadow flits across the scene. The wolverine. Broad-built, crouched low, with flowing, powerful movements. The white-tailed eagle watches everything from a safe distance from the top of a pine tree. I hadn't expected it to appear so quickly and enjoy watching it through my camera.

At dusk, three young wolves appear at the edge of the forest. Curious, but cautious, and with their tails tucked between their legs. They watch the wolverine, but remain at a safe distance. The wolverine is unimpressed by the wolves and continues to eat. The wolves retreat.

Later, when night has fallen over the forest, the night vision device reveals a new world: animals with white, ghostly eyes roam the darkness. I can watch the three wolves for a long time. Even without the wolverine, they are very cautious. They probably know who is coming: two large, white eyes are getting closer and closer out of the dark forest – a bear! The wolves run away, and the bear also disappears silently into the thicket. Around midnight, I turn off the stove and go to sleep.

Dawn and Bear Tracks

In the morning, the wolverine is sitting in front of the hut again, searching for the remains of the evening. I pour myself some coffee—lukewarm, but better than nothing. After the wolverine has retreated into the dense forest, I pack up and walk up the slope to my car. I sing a song quietly so that no animals in the vicinity are frightened by my sudden appearance. Only now do I notice the huge pile of bear droppings on the road. I hurry to my car and drive back to the log cabin.

A typical Finnish breakfast awaits me at base: coffee, juice, porridge with fresh cloudberries, eggs, and Karjalanpiirakka , which are Karelian pies filled with rice pudding. Delicious! I recount my observations and am still quite excited. While my batteries are charging at the solar-powered charging station, I am already looking forward to my second night of observation.

Species Portrait: The Wolverine – Gulo gulo, the “Bear Marten”

While bears and wolves take center stage in eastern Finland, the wolverine usually remains in the shadows. But Gulo gulo, the “bear marten,” is a fascinating loner. It is the largest member of the marten family and one of the rarest predators in Europe. Its stocky, muscular body, broad skull, and thick, oily fur make it perfect for life in the snow and cold. Adult males can weigh up to 32 kilograms, with males significantly heavier than females. Despite its size, the wolverine is a skilled climber and a tireless wanderer that can cover long distances. Its diet consists of carrion, small mammals, birds, and occasionally reindeer. In winter in particular, it moves skillfully across the snow, making many other animals easy prey. It stores food, which it hides under snow or moss. This may be why it is also known as the glutton, greedy stomach, or gluttonous throat.

Wolverine Population in Finland

The Finnish wolverine population numbers around 400 individuals and has spread further south from its traditional range in eastern and northern Finland. The wolverine has been strictly protected in Finland since 1982. Thanks to this consistent protection and scientific monitoring, the population has slowly stabilized. Compared to the early 1990s, the wolverine population has increased about tenfold. Monitoring is carried out using camera traps, DNA samples from hair and feces, and reports from local wildlife observers. Nevertheless, the population remains fragile: the animals need huge territories of up to 730 square kilometers in largely unbroken landscapes, which have become rare in Europe.

Myths and Legends

In the traditional worldview of the Sami, nature is not merely a backdrop, but is animated: animals, stones, rivers, and mountains possess their own “personhood.” This animistic belief, in which every living thing has spiritual significance, continues to shape Sami culture to this day.

Der Vielfraß – auf Nordsamisch gearpmát The wolverine – called gearpát in Northern Sami – occupies a special place in this belief system. Although it appears less frequently in traditional stories than, for example, the bear (guovža) or the raven (ráibár), in many regions of Lapland it is considered an animal to be treated with respect and caution. In older traditions, its name was sometimes paraphrased or avoided because it was believed that saying it aloud could bring bad luck – a taboo that also existed for other powerful wild animals.guovža) oder der Rabe (ráibár), gilt er in vielen Regionen Lapplands als ein Tier, das man mit Respekt und Vorsicht behandelt. In älteren Überlieferungen wurde sein Name teils umschrieben oder vermieden, da man glaubte, das Aussprechen könne Unglück bringen – ein Tabu, das auch bei anderen mächtigen Wildtieren bestand.

In northern Scandinavian folklore, the wolverine is considered the epitome of endurance, cunning, and independence. It represents a force that cannot be tamed – a creature that finds food even in the depths of winter and defies even stronger animals. In stories from Lapland and northern Norway, it is described as a tireless wanderer that knows no fixed boundaries and survives in the wilderness where others fail.

Conflicts with Reindeer Herding

Despite its small overall population, the wolverine is the most significant cause of damage to reindeer in Fell Lapland, especially since there is a strict ban on hunting wolverines. On the other hand, the forest wolverine has spread outside the reindeer herding area without harming or disturbing humans.

These facts are taken into account in the wolverine population management plan, which divides the distribution area into three regions: the northern and eastern reindeer herding area, the rest of the reindeer herding area, and the forest area of Finland. The key measures set out in the management plan relate to strengthening the wolverine population outside the reindeer herding area, reducing the damage caused by wolverines to reindeer, and improving methods for monitoring the wolverine population. The connection between the wolverine populations and those in Scandinavia and Russia should also be maintained.

Nevertheless, the majority of reindeer herders support the presence of large predators in reindeer herding areas, provided that the damage they cause is compensated and predator populations are controlled. However, in order to receive this compensation, the killed reindeer must first be found. To this end, the reindeer are fitted with tracking collars that switch on when the animal stops moving, enabling the herders to locate the carcasses. To prevent damage caused by large predators, some reindeer herders have also started fencing in their reindeer during the winter months.

Back in the Forest with the Wolverine

I saw the wolverine again during my second stay in the observation hut. The wolves and ravens were also back. That evening, I watched the animals around my hut a little longer. I was so glad I was able to borrow the night vision goggles. Otherwise, I would have had no idea what was going on around me. The next morning, in daylight, the scene is completely different, another world. Once again, I sing a quiet song as I leave the scene of last night. At the top of the slope, I look back again, wondering if there might be someone else there who wants to say goodbye.

More Information about the Animals

Metsähallitus Parks & Wildlife Finland: https://www.largecarnivores.fi/species/wolverine.html

IUCN Red List: https://www.iucnredlist.org/species/9561/45198537

Book recommendations for Finland

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

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Der Beitrag Rendezvous im Wald – Bei dem Vielfraß in Finnlands wilder Taiga erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Finland. The summit of Otsamo is a popular hiking destination in Inari. The 418-meter-high mountain offers a great view over the Inari lake area and a cozy shelter, which used to be the fire warden's hut. The Jäniskoski rapids, which are spanned by a suspension bridge, are another highlight of the hike.

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Hike to the summit of Otsamo at a glance

There are two hiking trails leading up to Otsamo: one starts in the nearby village of Inari and another at the Vasatokka Youth Center. I walked the route from Inari to Otsamo, which I describe below. In winter, there is a ski slope marked with blue pegs up to the summit.

• Start / Finish: Inari; north of the bridge over the Juutuanjoki, opposite the Siida Museum
• Length: about 19 km (there and back)
• Ascent: 300 m (mainly a steep ascent in the last 2 km before the summit)
• Marking: red wooden posts
• Shelter: two lavvus and a hut on the summit, each with a dry toilet and wood supply

What makes the hike from Inari to Otsamo peak so worthwhile?

Jäniskoski rapids and suspension bridge

The hike begins rather unspectacularly. The trail leads along wide paths through a pine forest and boulders. The route is part of the Juunta Trail, where information boards tell you about life by the river in the past.

After about 3.3 kilometers, you reach the Juutuanjoki River with its raging rapids Jäniskoski, over which a suspension bridge is spanned. It gets even wilder when you stand in the middle of the suspension bridge and look down through the grid floor. What you can also see is that there are wooden planks on the edge of the bridge for our four-legged friends.

At the suspension bridge, the Jäniskosken Lavvu invites you to take a break. After another 2.1 kilometers there is another lavvu, called Laurin Lavvu. Both have a fireplace, a woodshed and a dry toilet.

To the summit of Otsamo

After the rapids, the wide path becomes an easily accessible trail that winds through the mixed pine forest and follows the rushing Juutuanjoki River. Only the last two kilometers before the summit are steep. The vegetation changes, the trees become smaller and birch trees and rocks dominate the surroundings. If you turn around, you can see the lake landscape far below. From the small wooden hut on the summit, you have a 360-degree panorama that you don't find everywhere: far below, the lakes Inarijärvi and Muddusjärvi spread out and you have a view of the Juutuanjoki River and the Muotkatunturi and Joenkielinen fells.

After enjoying the view in all directions, I also went into the hut. A cool wind was blowing up there all day and I could see the rain coming in the distance. I unpacked my provisions and coffee and sat down by one of the large windows of the old fire warden's hut.

Fire warden huts

At the beginning of the 20th century, the forest wardens in northern Finland were responsible for around 90,000 hectares of forest. Their duties also included fire watching. More and more of these fire lookout huts with integrated observation towers were built. Around 1970, there were around 40 fire lookout huts like this one on Otsamo near Inari. In the 1980s, surveillance aircraft were increasingly used. Many of the huts were then converted into overnight or day cabins.

There was once a walk-on viewing platform on the roof of the hut. In the summer of 2024, the ladder leading up to it was unfortunately dismantled. But you can still go inside the hut and warm up or take a break sheltered from the wind and rain. There is a stove and a gas stove. Instructions for use are pinned to the wall in various languages.

The hut is only intended for daytime use and not for overnight stays.

Book recommendations for Finland

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

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Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love Scandinavia as much as I do? Do you fancy Norway? Then you might be interested in my articles about a Winter in Tromsø - the Gateway to the Arctic or about the Lofoten and Vesterålen - Winter Highlights.

Der Beitrag Hike zur Brandwächter-Hütte auf dem Otsamo bei Inari erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Finland. What's the story behind the lonely church in the wilderness on Lake Pielpajärvi? Well, it wasn't quite as lonely here as it is today. The church was located in the middle of the winter settlement of the Inari Sámi. The Sámi gathered here and spent the cold, dark winter months. They were joined by traders and tax collectors...and occasionally a priest. The Wilderness Church on Lake Pielpajärvi near Inari is one of the oldest buildings in northern Lapland, beautifully situated and accessible via a 9 km hike.

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A small Church with a long History

After the Christian faith spread in the Inari region in the 16th century, a church was built in the winter village of the Inari Sami in the middle of the 17th century. The church was completed in 1647, but with a floor plan of 6.8 m x 5.5 m, it was too small from the start. It was also difficult to find a priest who wanted to preach in this remote location. As a result, the priest only appeared once or twice a year and the service lasted one to one and a half weeks in winter. In summer, on the other hand, it was only two to three days. During this time, judgments were also pronounced and children were taught. Many old traditions disappeared with the Christian mission. Some shamans were executed for witchcraft.

One of the oldest Buildings in Northern Lapland

Due to its infrequent use, the small church was neglected and fell into disrepair. A new church was built. The current church was completed in 1760, making it one of the oldest buildings in northern Lapland. In the first half of the 19th century, there was also a rectory and a bailiff's house as well as several market stalls and church parlors. In 1837, the church was even given its own priest by decree of the Tsar. He was obliged to hold a service every second Sunday and to use the Sami language.

From the middle of the 19th century, however, the buildings were barely maintained and repaired. In 1888, a new church was finally completed in the newly developed settlement of Inari and the Wildmark Church on Lake Pielpajärvi was no longer used. It was only after the new church in Inari was destroyed during the Winter War in 1940 that the wilderness church was visited again. Since then, services have been held here every year at Midsummer and Easter. The Wilderness Church near Inari is also a popular venue for weddings.

Hike from Inari to the old Wilderness Church

In summer, the church can be reached via a 9 km hike (there and back). The starting point is the Sarviniementie parking lot, which is about 3 km northeast of the famous Siida Museum Inari.

The trail first leads through pine forest and later past birch-lined lakes. There are no gradients worth mentioning. However, the path is crisscrossed with stones and roots, making progress a little slower. Swampy areas are bridged by boardwalks. The trail is marked throughout and easy to find.

The church is always open to visitors. Please make sure to close the doors after your visit to minimize the effects of the weather. There is a barbecue area, picnic shelters, a dry toilet and a small hut in the square by the lake in front of the church.

In contrast to most other Sámi groups, the Inari Sámi did not historically engage in large-scale reindeer husbandry. Instead, the Inari-Sámi culture was characterized by fishing and hunting. Fishing became less important because Lake Inari was overfished in the 20th century. Finnish forest reindeer were the most important game for hunting, but their numbers declined in the 18th century. Nevertheless, I encountered a reindeer on the road on my way to the parking lot and there are two reindeer fences to cross during the hike.

There are information boards along the way. On the way there, spiritual texts adapted to the eight seasons are intended to encourage you to reflect. On the way back, there is information about the surrounding nature on the back of the boards.

The hike to Wilderness Church Inari can be shortened to 2.6 km (one way) by boat. The excursion boats on Lake Inari will drop you off at Pielpavuono Bay on request. In winter, the church can be reached by ski and snowmobile.

Book recommendations for Finland

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

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Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love Scandinavia as much as I do? Do you fancy Norway? Then you might be interested in my articles about a Winter in Tromsø - the Gateway to the Arctic or about the Lofoten and Vesterålen - Winter Highlights.

Der Beitrag Wilderness Church Pielpajärvi – Wanderung zur Sámi Kirche bei Inari erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Finland. After two months of husky guide training with Hetta Huskies in the north of Finland, I'm back in Germany. "How was it?" my people back home ask me. What should I say? I reflect and then begin: "It was challenging, exhausting, and painful... and there were around 190 reasons to keep smiling." On the day I left, there were even three more: the dog Puna had given birth. Three tiny, blind puppies are lying beside her in the shower on newspapers. For a brief moment, I hold the firstborn in my hand — a girl. Tiny, sharp claws prick my skin. The little one is squeaking for milk. With her black and white patterned fur, she reminds me of a little panda.

Get in the mood

A few photos from my first two weeks of husky guide training with Hetta Huskies. The motifs were the order of the day: dogs, dogs in the snow, dogs in front of the sled, dogs taking a break...

Captivated by the Dogs

It won't be long before the claws of Puna's three puppies are making a mess of dog beds, blankets, T-shirts, sweaters, pants, and other things. They will also use them to shoo the guides out of bed in the morning, sometimes in combination with wild licking. In the morning, when my limbs were still stiff from work the day before and I was struggling to put my socks on. I often slipped barefoot into my wellies and took my two indoor dogs out to pee in my nightwear while my own bladder was still squeezing. Afterward, over coffee and muesli, they looked at me expectantly with their brown or blue doggy eyes.

I miss the dogs around me. I never thought it would happen so quickly. But with every walk, feed, toothbrush, or sled ride, I got to know the individual personalities of the dogs better and built up trust and bonds with them.

What helped me as a dog newbie to warm up to the dogs quickly: I went to dog school beforehand...yes, without a dog. The girls from the Dogxytocin dog school supported my plans with theory training specially tailored to me. I was also able to watch their training sessions in the dog park. Thanks again for that! You can read more details about my preparations for the husky guide training below.

Two Months & a Thousand Experiences

I look through my photos and remember my two months at Hetta Huskies. Did I really do all that? How did it all fit into just two months?

At the beginning of April, when I arrived at the farm, there was still a lot of snow. The last multi-day sled tours were running and I had the opportunity to join them for three days. The dog sleds went over ice, through deep snow, mud, and water. Over time, the landscape changed from white to brown to green. The first flowers bloomed, the thermometer showed up to 28 degrees Celsius and the mosquito bites on humans and dogs became more and more numerous from the beginning of June.

Working with the dogs dominated our days. Feeding, giving water, checking bedding, cleaning and, if necessary, repairing cages and kennels, preparing food, giving medication, brushing fur and teeth, removing calculus, cutting nails, stroking, cuddling, and much more. There were also lots of other things to do, such as repairing equipment, computer work, or giving farm tours for guests. After 12 to 14 hours of work, it was often not the end of the day. Then it was off to the sauna with ice bathing, paddling on the edge of the ice, snowmobiling to a wilderness hut, grilling sausages over a campfire, to the beach, carving spoons or evening walks with the dogs.

Physical work outdoors – all a matter of acclimatization?

Where did the energy for all that work come from? Hmm, I think some of the energy and adrenaline jumped over from the dogs to us guides. Coffee, chocolate, huge portions of pasta, and the dynamics of the group helped. In the evening, I fell into bed exhausted and slept like a rock...after somehow making it to the top bunk of my double bunk bed. I always thought I was pretty fit for my age. Sure, I sit in front of the computer a lot, but I do sport almost every day, jog a lot, and go trekking with a heavy rucksack. But I felt like I'd been put through a blender for the first three weeks. Eventually, my body would get used to the work, I hoped. But it took much longer than expected and didn't always work...if only I had done all this 20-25 years ago...;-)

Ready for the Sofa – Adoption Program at Hetta

After two months on the Fram, I'm not the only one ready for the sofa. Some of the older sled dogs would also love a place on a couch. Hetta Huskies runs an adoption program for these dogs, as well as for younger dogs who can't or don't want to work as sled dogs. Many guides, interns, or customers fall in love with one of the dogs and take it into their home. Before doing so, of course, it is checked whether it is a good fit from both sides. If necessary, some people wait for "their" dog to retire. The oldest dogs at Hetta are 15 years old. Converted into human years, that's a proud age of around 90 years. At Hetta, they usually spend their days in the warm or mosquito-protected house or together with other older dogs in the large "oldies fence".

Have I also fallen in love with a dog? Of course, with several. There was Maple, who always greeted wildly and didn't want to stop playing. Denali, who was a bit shy and was given to Hetta by a Norwegian racing kennel because he was no longer racing. Cuillin, who is a white cuddly dog or little Breeze with her blue eyes and penetrating gaze. Just to name a few. Each of the 190 dogs on the farm was special and loveable in their own way. It was damn hard for me to leave the farm without a dog.

Ethical Dog Care and Rescue Center

I just mentioned it in passing: some dogs that no longer have a place on other farms find a new home at Hetta Huskies. These can be dogs from racing kennels, surplus puppies, shy, sick, or lazy dogs. All these dogs are just as well looked after and cared for at Hetta Huskies as all other dogs. They are not given up just because they cannot earn their own living. Just as old dogs are not simply put to sleep when they have served their purpose. That's how it should be everywhere. Unfortunately, however, this is far from being a matter of course in the dog sledding industry.

Ethical dog care to a high standard is a top priority at Hetta Huskies. Dogs that no longer have a "place" on other farms are taken in by Hetta as a rescue center and cared for and trained according to their needs. I am happy to work a little longer during the day for this. A husky farm that treats its dogs as business inventory would be out of the question for me. Neither for work, nor as a paying guest for dog sledding experiences.

Was the Internship as a Husky Guide at Hetta Huskies worthwhile for me?

I could write a lot more about my internship as a husky guide at this point. Maybe I'll do that later. But now I don't have much time before I go hiking in Sweden and it's important for me to put this article online beforehand. The most important thing has been said and I would like to summarize it once again: Hetta Huskies in the north of Finland was a wonderful place for me to learn (even if it was hard sometimes). In many different ways:

• first and foremost, of course, about dogs and their needs, care, communication, and training (including medical care, dog check, and heat check, stapling wounds, brushing teeth, removing tartar, changing bandages...)
• about dog mushing, snowmobiles, and quads (it was impressive to see how snowmobiles can be driven in deep snow, tip over, and be dug up and righted again)
• I gained a daring insight into the management of a husky farm
• Working with customers: I was there out of season, but at the beginning, I accompanied the dog sled rides as a helping hand. Later, I really enjoyed the farm tours with guests.
• Craftsmanship: there was always something to be repaired, for example, dog kennels, cages, fences, sleds, leads, dog harnesses, inner shoes to be felted or equipment to be sewn.
• Working in international teams with interesting, like-minded people
• the challenges of the Arctic landscape and life in it through the changing seasons
• Finnish culture
• Training in outdoor skills

My Conclusion

Can I recommend an internship at Hetta Huskies? Absolutely! But: you have to be prepared to work a lot - I mean a lot - to give up your private life to a large extent and to learn every day. The busier the season, the more is required. From the dogs, the customers, the boss, the entire team, and, last but not least, from the Arctic with temperatures of around -40 °C in the coldest months. Hetta Huskies has a comprehensive training program, and they are happy to provide some reading materials in advance. This was a great help for me, as I was able to prepare in beforehand and already knew some of the dogs.

Preparations: Crafts, Dog School and Husky Farm

- "I don't have time at the weekend, I have dog school"
- "But you don't have a dog"
- "That's right... But soon I'll have almost two hundred"
- "How???"
- "I'm doing an internship on a husky farm in Finland from April"...I say, grinning like a honey cake dog 🙂

What's the saying? You learn for life... But first I learned for the dog: I go to dog school to prepare myself. The girls from Dogxytocin think my idea is great and have put together a program for me. I learn the basics of domestication and learning theory. I continue with the dog's expressive behavior and dog-dog and dog-human communication. I learned how a dog appeases, what a "kiss to dismiss" is, and much more.

At the Husky Farm in Frankendorf I finally have the opportunity to get closer to some Siberian huskies. It's the first time I've driven a team of three dogs and later ten. It's amazing what power they have.

In addition to working with the dogs, there will also be all kinds of manual work to do on the farm or on tour: general maintenance, repairs, or new construction of dog kennels, fences, and sleds, for example... In order to become a bit fitter in terms of manual skills and to get to know and use new hand tools, I had some extra lessons as part of my training as a Wilderness Guide at the Guide Academy Europe (GAE).

Kiitos! That's Finnish and means "Thank you!"

I would like to take this opportunity to thank everyone who helped me with my preparations! Another big thank you goes especially to my bosses and my colleagues, who made it possible for me to take time off work and thus have this experience at the husky farm.

Kiitos also to Anna, the owner of Hetta Huskies, to Tim, the farm's craft boss, and to all the guides I was able to work with. Last but not least, a big thank you to Maple, Denali, Cuillin, Breeze, Tim Tam, Domino, Thunder, Smeagol, Shadow, Sirbma, Unni, Yukon, Quest, Cherry, Solfrid, Jumbo, Elsa, Tinder, Starsky and all the other wonderful huskies I had the pleasure of meeting!

Want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I am also very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Book recommendations for Finland

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love dogs and snow as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about Dog Sledding in Greenland or about Scottish Winter Mountaineering near Glencoe..

Der Beitrag Husky-Guide-Training – Zwei Monate bei Hetta Huskies in Finnland erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.