Romania. The Danube Delta is known to many nature lovers as a birdwatching paradise. Many birdwatchers come here during the migration season or to observe the summer breeding season. However, the Danube Delta is hardly known as a winter destination. But it is precisely at this time of year that the mighty Dalmatian pelicans and Pallas's gulls show off their beautiful breeding plumage. The sparse winter vegetation also makes the animals easy to spot on the riverbanks. In addition to the Dalmatian pelicans, it was the chance to see golden jackals, raccoon dogs, and wildcats that drew me to this remote region.

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The Water begins at the End of the Road

The evening in Tulcea feels like a transition between two worlds. From the city, also known as the “Gateway to the Danube Delta,” the only way to continue is by boat. We hoist our luggage into the small boat at the jetty. There is no one else at the harbor except us. It is raining. Everyone finds a place on the beanbags in the boat, pulls warm lambskin overshoes over their boots, and wraps themselves in the blankets provided. We get our cameras ready by the light of our headlamps. It is shortly before eight o'clock in the evening. Soon after we set off, all the lights of the city have disappeared, and only the red/green side lights of our boat bring some light into the darkness. Our guide scans the banks with night vision goggles for crepuscular and nocturnal animals. I, too, stare intently into the dark landscape and imagine I can make something out. After a while, I give up and just watch our guide, seeing which direction he points the night vision device and whether he raises his hand with the flashlight. Within the first hour of our boat trip to the village of Mila 23, we see two minks, two raccoon dogs, a tawny owl, and a deer.

There are only four of us, an unusually small group for a photography trip, accompanied by our guide from the nature tour operator Sakertours and our boatman. After about three hours on the boat, we reach our destination in Mila 23.

Danube Delta Biosphere Reserve

The Danube Delta Biosphere Reserve is a vast labyrinth of water and land on the border between Romania and Ukraine. The delta consists of countless lakes, canals, and islands at the end of the approximately 2,860 km long Danube River. Covering 5,800 square kilometers, it is the largest contiguous wetland and reed bed in Europe. The area is known as an Eldorado for birdwatchers, with 312 recorded bird species. Countless fish and mammal species find refuge in this mosaic of water and land, which has been designated a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and World Natural Heritage Site since 1991. The delta is also one of the last refuges for the European mink, the wildcat, the freshwater otter, and the globally endangered monk seal. Around 13,000 people live in small villages that can only be reached by boat. The main economic activities in the biosphere reserve are fishing, hunting, reed harvesting, livestock farming, subsistence farming, and tourism.

Mila 23 and Life in Winter in the Danube Delta

The small village of Mila 23 on the edge of one of the many canals looks more like a collection of boats than a settlement. There are no roads here, only wooden walkways, boats in front of the houses, and a few narrow paths. Many residents of the village, as well as the delta as a whole, belong to the Lipovan community, descendants of Russian Old Believers who found refuge here in the 18th century. Our guesthouse is family-run and impresses us over the following days with excellent local cuisine, which, as expected, offers plenty of fish from the waters on the doorstep.

In the weeks leading up to our trip, I had checked the weather forecast every day. What could I expect in winter in the Danube Delta? The forecast temperatures ranged from minus fourteen to plus fourteen degrees Celsius, with snow, ice, and true spring weather. Just the week before, there was snow on the ground, and the waterways were partially frozen. But now, at the beginning of February, the thermometer shows a few degrees above zero, the snow has disappeared, the ice has melted, and instead heavy clouds hang over the river and a fine drizzle alternates with heavy showers. Not the conditions photographers dream of, but perhaps exactly those that give a photo that certain atmosphere.

Winter is the off-season here in the Danube Delta. Most hotels and tourist attractions are closed, and visitors don't start arriving until April, when migratory birds stop over and the breeding season begins. But now the delta belongs almost exclusively to the locals and the animals. It is precisely this tranquility that makes it so appealing.

Golden Jackals from the Photo Hide

On two of the three days, our small photography group splits up. Two of us take the boat and search for water birds, while the other two move into a small photo hide at the edge of the reed belt. I can hardly wait to get into the hide and eagerly set up my camera. We are in luck: after just half an hour, two golden jackals appear, looking beautiful in their thick winter coats. They look like a cross between a fox and a small wolf. Golden jackals have spread rapidly in recent decades, as there is plenty of food and cover in the delta.

We are able to observe the five animals for over an hour. They are extremely shy in the open meadow and keep looking around in all directions, even up into the air. Probably not without reason. Two of the jackals have clearly visible old injuries, either from fights or traps: a partially severed tail, a partially missing front paw, an injured eye, and a bent ear testify to the enormous resilience and strength of these wild animals.

From our hiding place, we can observe other animals, including buzzards, a marsh harrier, gray herons, hooded crows, magpies, a gray woodpecker, and two pheasants.

Boat Trip in Rain and Fog

Our second day begins before sunrise again with strong coffee and a richly laid breakfast table. It is raining outside, and even after sunrise, it seems as if it will not get light today. We pull the tarpaulin over the boat and wrap ourselves in blankets. The further we go, the wider the river becomes, and then it divides into branches that branch out again until it seems impossible to find our way, and only walls of reeds pass by on the left and right. As the boat chugs slowly through the gray water, we keep an eye out for birds. First, we spot a little grebe, then pygmy cormorants, gray herons, coots, and great crested grebes. Later in the afternoon, the rain stops, and a veil of fog descends over the water.

Our return trip to our accommodation is a real blind flight in the fog. Sometimes we can barely see fifty meters ahead, and we can only move slowly. Great white egrets emerge like white ghosts from the gray soup, gray herons stand motionless on the shore, almost unnoticed, and great crested grebes disappear with a plop beneath the surface of the water. Although everything is damp and the light is dim, this is precisely when very atmospheric images emerge, with landscapes that resemble paintings rather than photographs.

Pelicans in their Breeding Plumage

Our last day is devoted entirely to the Dalmatian pelicans. Right at the start of the trip, we already see several young birds. After a short stop, we continue on our way, searching for the adult birds, whose shaggy head feathers and bright orange throat pouches look almost exotic in their breeding plumage. On a larger lake, we finally discover the silhouettes of several pelicans, huge birds with a wingspan of up to three meters.

With several thousand breeding pairs, the Danube Delta is home to one of the most important colonies in Europe, accounting for a significant proportion of the world's population. They remain in the area throughout the year. In spring, the Dalmatian pelicans are joined by pink pelicans, which breed in large colonies in the Danube Delta.

We brought the pelicans some fish, which gave us the opportunity to watch the animals feeding. The pelicans use their throat pouches as nets to scoop up fish and water. The water is then drained before the fish is swallowed. The throat pouch is extremely stretchy and can hold ten to twelve liters of water.

The Pallas's gull is named after the German naturalist Peter Simon Pallas (1741–1811), who first described the species in 1773. It is the largest gull with a black head (in breeding plumage) and the third largest gull species worldwide. The species is mainly found in the steppe lakes of Central Asia and the coastal regions of the Caspian Sea. The population in the Danube Delta is the westernmost occurrence.

Nighttime in the Danube Delta

Wildcats

Every evening, we spend several hours searching for crepuscular and nocturnal animals. The European wildcat lives in the vast Danube Delta with its dense riparian forest and numerous refuges. The animals usually remain invisible to visitors because they are not only nocturnal but also extremely shy. Wildcats avoid open areas, preferring to stay in dense riparian forests and reed beds, where they use hiding places such as fallen tree trunks or hollow trunks to protect themselves from disturbance during the day. They only go hunting after dusk.

Three times, our guide spots a wildcat on the shore with his night vision goggles. But in the glow of the flashlight, it quickly disappears. I only see the animal balancing on a branch for a brief moment and can only photograph its rear end with my camera.

Raccoon Dogs

I have often heard of raccoon dogs, but never seen one. So I am all the more delighted when we spot two animals during an evening boat tour. The raccoon dog is native to East Asia. Between 1928 and the 1950s, thousands of animals were released in Russia, Belarus, and Ukraine. The aim was to establish a new fur animal species for the hunting and fur industry. The animals proved to be adaptable, fertile, and prolific. From these populations, the raccoon dog migrated independently.

Farewell to the Danube Delta

Our return trip from Mila23 to Tulcea is another night journey. After a sumptuous three-course dinner, we make ourselves comfortable in the boat again and keep our cameras at the ready. We see several nutrias in the water, tawny owls, and mice swimming in the water. During the trip, fog rolls in again, and we can only chug slowly through the canals. A typical winter in the Danube Delta. I lean back in my beanbag, listen to the water lapping against the hull, and think about how rare such places have become in Europe.

Book Recommendations for Nature Lovers

Would you like to learn more about wildlife observation? Then I have three book recommendations for you. You can order the books* from Amazon by clicking on the images. If you buy a book or another article via an affiliate link, I will receive a small commission, and you will help me to continue to fill Wanderlust Motifs with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you.

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Recommendations for further Reading

If you like the Danube Delta in winter, then you will certainly be interested in the following articles:

Der Beitrag Donaudelta im Winter – Auf Fototour zu Goldschakalen und Pelikanen erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Germany. It is early December. The two-and-a-half-hour ferry crossing from Cuxhaven to Heligoland can be a wild ride at this time of year. But right now, something very special is attracting many nature lovers to Germany's offshore island: the birth season of the gray seals. From November to January, hundreds of gray seals are born on the flat sandy beaches of Heligoland Düne. It's a natural spectacle that is second to none.

I am spending three days on Heligoland to photograph the seals. I am hoping for one of those rare moments that nature photographers dream of: a birth. In the following, I will tell you about my time with the gray seals and give you lots of practical tips for your own photo trip to the seals on Heligoland Düne

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New Life among the Gray Seals

The wind has a firm grip on the Heligoland dunes. Fine sand whips across the beach, drawing bright veils across the ground. The grains of sand hit me like tiny needles and crunch between my teeth. I am glad I have my safety goggles from the hardware store, which allow me to keep my eyes open without straining them. My gaze and my camera are fixed on a large gray seal that is behaving conspicuously nervously, not far from the barrier fence. After a few minutes of sand exfoliation, my suspicion is confirmed: her abdomen reveals a bulging red amniotic sac.

The female turns awkwardly onto her side, first one way, then the other. She bends like a banana, turns in circles, and tries to push the amniotic sac further out. The surrounding seals raise their heads, unimpressed. The offspring takes its time. For about 15 minutes, it hangs halfway out in the fresh North Sea wind of 7 Beaufort, while its mother twists and turns, bends and rolls in circles. All without making a sound, less than two meters away from the mobile barrier fence that separates visitors from the wild animals. All observers keep a respectful distance and watch. Also, without making a sound. Then suddenly everything happens very quickly, and a wet, yellowish bundle lies in the sand.

The little seal pup immediately opens its eyes and is sniffed and touched by its mother. Moments of closeness, simply beautiful to watch. Meanwhile, the crows jostle in front of the placenta before it cools down and is covered with sand. A wild feeding frenzy begins. The calf looks at the world with its big black eyes, somewhat irritated. Can it already see the crow right in front of it clearly? Can it see us photographers? Its first movements seem shaky, tentative. It takes a while for the little one to find the milk teats and for its fur to dry. Now it is no longer yellowish, but shows its beautiful white lanugo fur. A piece of the fresh umbilical cord still hangs from its belly.

Growth in Record Time – From a white Ball of Fur to Germany's Largest Predator

Seal pups are born weighing around 10 to 14 kilograms. Due to the fat content of their milk, which is more than 50 percent, the pups gain up to two kilograms per day and soon develop a thick, white layer of blubber. Some mothers stay with their calves permanently, while others leave their young alone for a few hours to go fishing. When the calves are weaned after 15 to 21 days, they are on their own. About ten days after weaning, their fur changes, and the white woolly coat is replaced by a swimming coat. Then come the first attempts at swimming, and the young seal begins to hunt instinctively.

On the beach, I see young animals that are only a few days old and others that have already become little rolls of blubber. They seem extremely clumsy on land, but are already very curious. They explore with their snouts, feel their way with their highly sensitive whiskers, and turn their heads toward every new sound.

Grey seals belong to the family of dog seals. Their range extends from Norway to the East Coast of America. The animals that come to Heligoland belong to the eastern North Sea population. They are the largest predators in Germany:

• Males can weigh up to 300 kilograms. They only reach their full strength at around eight years of age.
• Females remain significantly smaller, weighing between 150 and 200 kilograms.
• Young animals weigh between 10 and 14 kilograms at birth.
• The average life expectancy of a gray seal is 35 years.
• Gray seals can reach speeds of up to 20 km/h on land and up to 40 km/h in water.
• Estimates of the survival rate in the first year of life vary greatly depending on location and conditions, ranging from less than 50% to 85%. The main causes of death are often starvation or injury.

Deutschlands wohl stürmischste Kinderstube

Heligoland Dune is barely recognizable in winter. The summer vacationers are gone, leaving behind silence, wind, and Germany's largest gray seal colony. Every year starting in November, this beach becomes the most important birthplace for the eastern North Sea population of gray seals (Halichoerus grypus).Halichoerus grypus).

What appears to be a barren place is in fact a perfectly functioning nursery:

• Strict social distancing rules and barriers separate visitors from the animals.
• A wide beach that is never completely flooded.
• Vigilant rangers keep an eye on seal pups in need of help and keep an eye on visitors.
• Waters rich in fish.

The gray seals often lie close together. Therefore, the beaches are closed to humans. It is no longer possible to walk on the beach without disturbing the seals or risking a bite. However, you can still observe the animals:

There is a raised wooden boardwalk in the dunes on the north beach. From here, you have a good view of the north beach. Some of the seals lie very close to or high up in the dunes. Sometimes they even crawl across the panoramic trail.

The southern beach is accessible up to the Düne restaurant (closed in winter) at the upper edge; the rest of the beach is separated by a sturdy metal fence. The seals are also spread out across the entire beach up to the fence. Despite the fence, it is important to keep your distance here as well, otherwise the animals will become restless or too accustomed to humans. This can become a problem in the following bathing season when the seals, accustomed to humans, get too close to bathers.

A Look back at the History of Heligoland

Heligoland and the neighboring island of Düne only acquired their current shape and size during the Nazi era. In order to develop Heligoland as a strategic naval port, both islands were to be greatly enlarged as part of the Hummerschere project. To this end, large parts of the present-day island were filled in and fortified so that their shape and size were no longer subject to the influence of the tides. This created the northeast and south harbor areas on the main island, and Düne was enlarged many times over, and the airport was built.

Gray Seals in Germany – A Success Story

Grey seals used to be mercilessly hunted in the North Sea – for their fur, their meat, and because of the mistaken belief that they were decimating fish stocks. By the beginning of the 20th century, gray seals had been almost wiped out in German waters. In addition to hunting, environmental toxins also caused their numbers to decline dramatically. It was only with strict protection under the Federal Nature Conservation Act, international agreements, and the designation of the Heligoland FFH area with the Heligoland rock base that the population began to slowly recover.

Since the first gray seal birth on Heligoland in the winter of 1996/97, there has been a steady increase in the number of births. Today, Heligoland is the most important breeding ground for gray seals in Germany—and one of the few places in Europe where you can observe the birth of these animals without endangering them. Today, around 1,000 pups are born here every year – and the trend is rising.

Total number of gray seal births (source: Verein Jordsand e.V.):

– 2024/25: over 1,000 pups
– 2023/24: 850-900 pups
– 2022/23: 700-800 pups
– 2021/22: 670 pups
– 2020/21: 652 pups

Life in the Colony – Closeness and Distance

Wind blows sand across the beach, swirling around the animals like thin veils. But the seals seem unmoved by such moments: they close their eyes and let everything wash over them. There is a clear order among the adult animals: mothers keep their distance from each other, young animals lie scattered across a wide area, and males patrol the edges. Although the colony appears dense, the animals rarely touch each other.

The most common behaviors I observe are:

• Contact sounds between mother and pup, suckling, playful physical contact between pup and mother
• Protection of the pup from other seals
• Rearing up and threatening, especially between males, but also females, who attack each other if one comes too close.
• Mock attacks, which often consist only of a low head position and open mouth
• Bloody fights between the bulls
• The approach of the bulls to the females, because mating takes place immediately after weaning the young. Most of the time, the bulls are driven away, but I was able to observe mating twice.

Mating Season in Winter

While the young animals still lie awkwardly on the beach, the mating season begins for the adults. The males wait, observe, and show their presence. They keep a close eye on when one of their females is ready to mate. However, if the males approach the female too early, they are rudely rejected.

The stately bulls vehemently defend their harem (typically five to seven females) against intruders and competitors. Violent fights are rare – most rivalries are decided by body language, vocalizations, and mutual intimidation.

After successful mating, the fertilized egg enters a dormant period of around three months. Only then does the approximately eight-month embryonic development begin. This makes it possible for the birth to take place again in winter. By then, most females have built up enough energy reserves to nurse for several weeks.

The Moment that remains

As I leave the beach in the evening, the calf whose birth I witnessed is nestled close to its mother. Its fur is no longer wet and shines white. It looks around curiously, appearing full and content. The moment when the seal pup fell from the bursting amniotic sac onto the beach and lay there as a wet, helpless bundle in the sand-filled gusts of wind is burned into my memory.

Heligoland Dune shows its roughest side in winter. And at the same time it's most tender. New life grows here, and nature tells one of its oldest stories. Quiet. Wild. And every year anew.

How to behave around Gray Seals

Gray seals are Germany's largest predators and should be treated with respect and consideration. For the successful rearing of young animals and for your own safety, please note the following:

• Check with the rangers and staff of the Jordsands e.V. association about the current accessibility of the beaches and any restrictions in place.
• You may encounter seals outside the barriers. On freely accessible areas, be sure to keep a distance of 30 meters from the animals.
• Young animals that have been influenced by too close contact with humans can sometimes make safe and carefree swimming difficult in summer. They approach bathers fearlessly.
• Do not go near bull fights, as the animals can reach speeds of around 20 km/h on land and are particularly aggressive during the mating season.
• Do not block the animals' access to the water or from the water to land. Never get between a calf and its mother.
• Severe disturbances can permanently disrupt the sensitive bond between mother and calf, which can lead to high calf mortality in the first year of life.

Photography Tips for Gray Seals on Heligoland Dune

Access to the beach:

The beaches are largely closed during the breeding season. There is an elevated panoramic path on the north beach from which you can observe the seals, and on the south beach you can walk along the beach up to a metal fence separating it from the dune restaurant.

Perspective:

Since the gray seals lie on the ground, the best pictures are taken when you lie on the ground yourself. This is only possible on the south beach, where the metal fence is located.

Focal length:

I took most of the pictures with a 200-600 mm telephoto lens. Unfortunately, the lens end was too large in diameter, so I couldn't use the metal fence as a tripod substitute. However, I was still able to take good pictures, even close to the ground. The 100-400 mm lens would have been better suited. A standard lens is definitely worthwhile for photographing the landscape and the seals in their habitat.

Best time to travel:

The birthing season lasts from November to January. When I was on Heligoland Düne at the beginning of December, around 700 pups had already been born, and there were many different age groups. The best chance of seeing a birth is at the end of November.

Best time of the day:

I couldn't detect any different activity patterns among the gray seals throughout the day, but it is said that they are most active in the morning. In addition, the morning and evening are particularly beautiful because of the beautiful light. This allows you to take beautiful backlit shots in the morning

Sand and rain:

Sand blows most near the ground, and it is almost impossible to prevent it from getting on your camera. If you like, bring a protective cover and UV filter. A brush has proven useful for brushing off sand grains at the end of the day.

Food, warming up, toilet:

Bring everything you need for food and drink. Drinking water can be refilled in the toilets in the heated exhibition/lounge area at the ferry terminal. There are also power outlets and tables for lunch breaks.

Getting to the dunes:

The first dune ferry leaves at 8 a.m. at the beginning of December, and a round trip costs €6. More information here.

Book Recommendations for Nature Lovers

Would you like to learn more about wildlife observation? Then I have three book recommendations for you. You can order the books* from Amazon by clicking on the images. If you buy a book or another article via an affiliate link, I will receive a small commission, and you will help me to continue to fill Wanderlust Motifs with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you.

Want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I am also very happy if you share my article with your friends.

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Recommendations for further Reading

Der Beitrag Nachwuchs im Winterwind – Kegelrobben auf Helgoland-Düne erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

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Autumn in Finland's wild Taiga

Autumn begins early in eastern Finland. As early as September, the birch trees turn golden, the nights grow long, and the northern lights appear in the clear night sky. The bears prepare for their winter hibernation and eat their fill of blueberries to build up a thick layer of fat. I, on the other hand, prepare myself with my down jacket, sleeping bag, hat, and thermos for several cold nights in photo hides at four different locations in eastern Finland. Not every hide is equipped with heating. Most are simple wooden shacks or small huts, sometimes with a bed or bunk bed, or just a soft floor mat. Each one is unique in its own way, sometimes very cozy, sometimes a real pain in the neck.

Karhu-Kuusamo – Finland's northernmost Bear Photography Hide

When I arrive at the Karhu-Kuusamo meeting point, the forest is quiet. I park my car in a small space and watch a jay in the tree opposite. I look around and only when I am sure that there is no bear behind the next tree do I get out and point my camera at the raven. But it hears the two cars approaching ahead of me and takes off. It brought me luck – from now on, it would only be half an hour before I saw my first brown bear in the wild.

My first Photo Hide for viewing Bears near Kuusamo

The Karhu-Kuusamo observation hides are located about a 30-minute drive from Kuusamo and are the northernmost photo hides for bear viewing in all of Finland. The season lasts from early May to late September, and the sighting probability is 99%. The five hides are wooden huts of varying sizes overlooking a dark pool, a boggy swamp, and the forest beyond. I share a small hide with another visitor. The atmosphere is tense as we set up our cameras on the beanbags and our guide lays out treats for the bears outside, 20 to 60 meters away from the huts. It doesn't take long before I feel completely overwhelmed by the huge bear that suddenly appears at the edge of the forest. But the animals are smart; they know when the restaurant opens for them.

This first encounter with a wild brown bear in its natural habitat is a moment that stays with me for a long time. After a few minutes, the big guy disappears back into the dense forest, and I begin to settle into the photo hide. Then, almost hesitantly, a female with particularly light, shimmering blond fur appears at the edge of the forest. At her side is a cub, peeking cautiously out from behind its mother. Above them, several sea eagles sit in the treetops, waiting for their chance. Ravens circle the area, commenting on the spectacle with hoarse caws.

The Sky is wild, too

It's not just the forests that are wild in Finland – the sky is too. During my observations, I repeatedly saw white-tailed eagles circling above the clearings or sitting in the trees. The white-tailed eagle(Haliaeetus albicilla)is one of the largest birds of prey in Europe. It was once almost extinct, but thanks to consistent conservation measures, populations in Finland have recovered. Today, it can be found regularly on lakes and along the Baltic Sea coast – but it also occasionally appears inland, searching for carrion or fish.

Night in the Bear Forest

As darkness falls, our guide knocks on the door of the hut, which we have locked from the inside. For me, it's now time to move on to the largest of the observation huts, where I will spend the night. He himself will leave the area with the other guests. The thought of being alone in the middle of bear territory makes me a little nervous. I push my excitement aside and get my camera ready while there is still a little bit of light left. Just in time, because the big male bear is already coming back, looking for more pieces of fish. He comes within a few meters of the hut. I hear his footsteps in the muddy swamp, his panting, chewing, and suddenly a deep growl that sends shivers down my spine. I sit still, listen, and feel a rollercoaster of absolute fascination and goosebumps. It's a good thing the hide is so solid and sturdy.

Only when it is pitch black outside do I crawl into one of the four bunk beds. Surprisingly quickly, I fall into a deep sleep. Maybe it's the tiredness, maybe it's the security of the hide. In the morning, I leave the hut and lock the door from the outside. On the way to my car, I hum a song, hoping to scare away any bears on the way between the hut and my car.

For more information on bear watching from Finland's northernmost photo hide, visit the Karhu-Kuusamo website..

Wild Brown Bear Center – three Days with Bears and Wolverines

My journey continues south, where I have booked three days at the Wild Brown Bear Center near Vartius. A large observation hut and several small photo hides offer unobstructed views of the marsh, lake, and forest in the border region between Finland and Russia. There is even cell phone reception in the hides, and all guests are connected in a WhatsApp group. We want to use it to communicate sightings and the movements of wild animals, helping us to look in the right direction and not miss anything.

At around 4 p.m., we set off for the hides, which are about 700 meters away and designed for one to two people. There is a bunk bed, chairs, sleeping bags, and a toilet bucket. I attach my tripod head to a wooden board at the viewing slit, settle in, and wait for a bear to appear.

A Wolverine says Hello

The first evening in the hide remains quiet and without sightings. After an equally quiet night, I pack up my camera equipment and am about to leave the hide. A dark brown body darts out of the shadows and runs along the opposite shore of the lake. Just as quickly as it appeared, it disappears again. Gulo gulo, known in English as the wolverine or bear marten, is one of the rarest predators in Europe. Gulo gulo, zu Deutsch Vielfraß oder auch Bärenmarder, ist einer der am seltensten beobachteten Beutegreifer Europas.

We wait, hoping that the wolverine will reappear. Unfortunately, to no avail. At 8 a.m., the agreed time, we guests all leave our hiding places at the same time and meet in the common room for breakfast.

The next two days follow the same pattern: in the afternoon, after an early dinner, we head out to the hiding places, wait for the animals in the evening, spend the night in the hiding place, and return to base camp in the morning for breakfast. During the day, I go for walks in the area, photograph birds at the feeding station, or look through the photos from the previous evening in my room or the lounge.

An underrated Loner

While bears are the center of attention here, the wolverine often remains in the shadows. Unfairly so. With its muscular body, powerful jaws, and sharp claws, it moves effortlessly through the terrain. It is a scavenger, but also a hunter that can kill weakened reindeer, hares, or birds.

On the second day, I see the wolverine again and manage to take a photo of the nimble creature. But it is only later, quite a bit further south, at Erä-Eereo near Lieksa, that I am able to observe and photograph the wolverine at length. The night vision device I borrowed opens up a view into a dark, hidden world that is teeming with life. In addition to the wolverine, I also see wolves, a bear that immediately disappears back into the thicket, and various bird species such as ravens, jays, white-tailed eagles, and sparrowhawks. Read more in my separate article “Rendezvous in the forest – With the wolverine in Finland's wild taiga.”

The Bear comes to say Goodbye

On the last evening, I am back in another hide, looking out over a small lake surrounded by forest. The long-awaited bear arrives within the first hour. It is slightly smaller than the bears I saw in Kuusamo. It is a brief but wonderful and intense encounter, and afterwards I watch with great satisfaction as the sun sets behind the forest and darkness falls outside.

More information about bear watching can be found on the Wild Brown Bear Center website.

Wildlife Safaris Finland – A Paradise for Wildlife Photographers near Kuhmo

Paradise is the name of the third location where I am setting up a photo hide in Finland. It is one of 20 hides belonging to Wildlife Safaris Finland's Kuikka Base Camp, located in the border region with Russia. The station is run by renowned nature photographer Lassi Rautiainen, a pioneer of bear photography in Europe. Although the border crossings between Finland and Russia are currently closed, there is no border fence up here, unlike in southern Finland. Bears and wolves pass through unhindered, as they always have. Visitors who want to come to this border region must register their stay with the Finnish authorities in advance, which the tour operator does a few days before arrival.

Before heading out to the hide, I cook some pasta outside at the picnic area with my Trangia stove. Freshly fortified, I pack my thermos, sandwiches, camera equipment, and sleeping bag. At around 4 p.m., our guide drives ahead through the forest. We guests follow in our own cars to “Paradise,” a row of huts on the edge of a huge grassy plain flanked by pine, spruce, and birch forests. The landscape shimmers in shades of yellow and ochre – autumn is unmistakably on its way.

There is no light or electricity out here. Luxury here means being close to nature. This is the smallest hut I have ever stayed in. I can't stand up here, but I can lie comfortably on a soft foam mat and take photos from a worm's-eye view or sit upright on a chair. In the vestibule there is a toilet bucket, separated from the realm of the bears only by a tarpaulin. I have never been so alert when going to the toilet. Our guide explains how to use the gas stove (there is still a little bit of luxury) and then goes outside to scatter pieces of fish and dog food pellets on the meadow. With his quad bike and trailer, he takes a pig carcass further away from the huts. Attracted by the food, it doesn't take long for the first bear to appear. Shortly after him, the wolves enter the scene. Ravens settle down all around, cawing loudly.

When the Wolf shows up

Well camouflaged in the tall grass, I see my first wolf in Finland. Shortly afterwards, a second one appears, then a third. Over the course of the evening, I count seven young wolves, accompanied by their mother. The adolescents romp across the clearing, playfully wrestling and snapping at their siblings, storming through the meadow like exuberant teenagers. Two of the young wolves come very close to the huts and search for dog food pellets in the tall grass. I watch them spellbound, and every now and then, one of them looks directly into my camera. What I would give to be able to read wolves' minds. By 10 p.m., it is finally so dark that I can no longer see anything. I crawl into my sleeping bag. Outside, I hear the wilderness continuing to live.

I wake up with the first light of dawn. The wolves are already awake too; I can see them in the distance, just before the edge of the forest. Now they are all together, resting next to a tree trunk. I wish they would come back to the huts, but unfortunately, it's in vain. With a heavy heart, I pack my things and say a very grateful goodbye to “Paradise.” What I didn't know that morning was that in a few days, I would see wolves again at Erä-Eereo near Lieksa.

More information is available on the Wildlife Safaris Finland website.

Responsibility of Photographers

As a wildlife photographer, you have a great responsibility towards the animals you want to photograph. Even though the photo hides with their small viewing windows are designed to disturb the animals as little as possible, you must be aware of the possible effects. Therefore, each of the photo hides has its own rules, which must be strictly observed by every guest. Failure to comply can not only disturb or scare away the animals, but also pose a danger to life and limb. Before entering the hide, ask the operator for instructions, ask questions if anything is unclear, and familiarize yourself with the area and the behavior of the animals beforehand.

Nature photographers are automatically ambassadors for nature and conservation. High-quality images can help raise awareness of the need to protect these animals and generate positive attention for the preservation of wilderness areas. Ultimately, nature photography and wildlife tourism also bring additional income to the region and strengthen the acceptance of large predators among the population. For example, the illegal killing of wolves in Kuhmo has decreased thanks to wildlife tourism, as local people have come to understand how important living wolves are.

Proper Behavior when photographing Wildlife from a Hide in Finland

• Be quiet, ideally prepare everything for the evening/night so that everything is ready to hand. Avoid opening loud Velcro fasteners or zippers. Set your cell phone to silent mode.
• No loud crackling food packaging – ask if bringing food is allowed at all.
• Set your camera to silent mode (in some hides, photography with loud SLR cameras is even prohibited).
• Do not use flash, headlamps, or other lights outside or inside the hide.
• No additional attractants or food outside the controlled areas.
• No strong-smelling food, perfumes, or mosquito repellent.
• Wear dark clothing to avoid reflections on the viewing glass.
• Do not let camera parts hang out of the hide.
• No sudden movements.
• No dogs allowed.
• Do not leave the hide until the agreed time.

A Place that transforms

Every night in the photo hide in Finland's wild east brought unforgettable encounters and new experiences. If you want to observe animals in the wild, you have to adapt to the rhythm of nature. That means long periods of waiting, silence, and then the big moment. The observation huts are simple, cramped, and not very comfortable. But what they lack in comfort is more than made up for by the proximity to the animals and the intensity of the observations. You sit there, looking outside, camera at the ready, and then suddenly a wolf, bear, wolverine, or eagle comes into view.

The time spent in the photo hides has changed my awareness of wild animals. After the physical proximity, the personal experience leaves me with a psychological closeness to bears, wolves, wolverines, and eagles, and I carry the experiences of these days in the taiga like a little treasure in my memory. I had taken many, many pictures and was already looking forward to seeing the animals again at home on my sofa.

More Information about the Animals

Metsähallitus Parks & Wildlife Finland: https://www.largecarnivores.fi/species/wolverine.html

IUCN Red List: https://www.iucnredlist.org/species/9561/45198537

Book recommendations for Finland

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

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Recommendations for further Reading

Der Beitrag Finnlands wilder Osten – Bären, Wölfe und Vielfraße aus Fotoverstecken beobachten erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Finland. It is dark. I am alone in my small photography hideout in the middle of the Finnish taiga. Only the gas stove burns quietly in the background. But then – a smacking sound breaks the nighttime silence. It is quite close. I get up and quietly switch on the night vision device that is tucked into one of the window slits. A wolverine. Less than five meters away, a massive, muscular, thick-furred fur, individual raindrops glistening on the tips of its hair. Its powerful teeth tug at a piece of meat that it holds with one paw. It looks up briefly, its eyes white in the night vision device, staring at me. Goosebumps run down my spine. Then it continues eating. Shortly afterward, the chattering of a family of mallards fills the darkness.

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Autumn in the wild Taiga

I am traveling through the Finnish taiga, near Lieksa in the east of the country. It is autumn, the time of ruska, when birch trees glow golden and the moors shine in all shades of red. The nights are already quite cold, and there are no more mosquitoes. Mushrooms are sprouting, lingonberries and blueberries are ripe, and end up in my cereal every morning. Today, my path takes me along gravel roads deep into the dense forest to the base camp of Eero Kortelainen, alias Erä-Eero. Keljänpuro Lodge is an old logger's cabin from the 1950s that was renovated by Eero himself. Eero initially offered various outdoor activities here, and since 2005 he has also been offering wildlife viewing. Over the years, Erä-Eero has become known as the world's best place to observe wolverines, a shy and rare animal that is difficult to observe in the wild. There are observation huts and photo hides at various locations, where I have settled in for the next two nights.

Welcome to Erä-Eraeo

I am warmly welcomed with steaming coffee. Keljänpuro Lodge is rustic and cozy, and the animal pictures on the walls make me want to set off on a wildlife viewing trip right away. But first, Sini gives me a briefing. I learn more about the hides, the rules to follow there, and how my evening and the next morning will unfold. Then I borrow a pair of night vision goggles and pack my snack box and thermos flask into my car. Eero and Sini drive ahead, and I follow in my own car. After about six kilometers, we pass a barrier and park our cars in front of a small wooden hut at Uuronlampi, a beautiful moorland lake surrounded by high hills.

I climb out, excited. The wooden hut is a luxurious observation hut with large windows, comfortable armchairs, and a stove. From here, you can look down a slope to a meadow, behind which lies a small lake. To the right are three small photo hides, and to the left of the meadow is the forest. As I am the only guest, I have free choice and select the rear photo hide with a view of the lake and meadow. While Eero and Sini lay out food to attract the animals, I settle into my hide. The cameras are quickly put in position, and the bed and two chairs are covered with all sorts of stuff. It takes a while to get everything in the right place for the night, so that I can find it even in the dark. Because at night, the lights stay off. Otherwise, I'll scare away the wild animals. I turn on the small gas stove and inspect the toilet bucket behind the curtain. Everything you need is there.

Encounters in the Dark

No sooner have Eero and Sini disappeared in their car than calm returns. Only ravens and jays can be heard, their cawing echoing across the lake. After a while, a dark shadow flits across the scene. The wolverine. Broad-built, crouched low, with flowing, powerful movements. The white-tailed eagle watches everything from a safe distance from the top of a pine tree. I hadn't expected it to appear so quickly and enjoy watching it through my camera.

At dusk, three young wolves appear at the edge of the forest. Curious, but cautious, and with their tails tucked between their legs. They watch the wolverine, but remain at a safe distance. The wolverine is unimpressed by the wolves and continues to eat. The wolves retreat.

Later, when night has fallen over the forest, the night vision device reveals a new world: animals with white, ghostly eyes roam the darkness. I can watch the three wolves for a long time. Even without the wolverine, they are very cautious. They probably know who is coming: two large, white eyes are getting closer and closer out of the dark forest – a bear! The wolves run away, and the bear also disappears silently into the thicket. Around midnight, I turn off the stove and go to sleep.

Dawn and Bear Tracks

In the morning, the wolverine is sitting in front of the hut again, searching for the remains of the evening. I pour myself some coffee—lukewarm, but better than nothing. After the wolverine has retreated into the dense forest, I pack up and walk up the slope to my car. I sing a song quietly so that no animals in the vicinity are frightened by my sudden appearance. Only now do I notice the huge pile of bear droppings on the road. I hurry to my car and drive back to the log cabin.

A typical Finnish breakfast awaits me at base: coffee, juice, porridge with fresh cloudberries, eggs, and Karjalanpiirakka , which are Karelian pies filled with rice pudding. Delicious! I recount my observations and am still quite excited. While my batteries are charging at the solar-powered charging station, I am already looking forward to my second night of observation.

Species Portrait: The Wolverine – Gulo gulo, the “Bear Marten”

While bears and wolves take center stage in eastern Finland, the wolverine usually remains in the shadows. But Gulo gulo, the “bear marten,” is a fascinating loner. It is the largest member of the marten family and one of the rarest predators in Europe. Its stocky, muscular body, broad skull, and thick, oily fur make it perfect for life in the snow and cold. Adult males can weigh up to 32 kilograms, with males significantly heavier than females. Despite its size, the wolverine is a skilled climber and a tireless wanderer that can cover long distances. Its diet consists of carrion, small mammals, birds, and occasionally reindeer. In winter in particular, it moves skillfully across the snow, making many other animals easy prey. It stores food, which it hides under snow or moss. This may be why it is also known as the glutton, greedy stomach, or gluttonous throat.

Wolverine Population in Finland

The Finnish wolverine population numbers around 400 individuals and has spread further south from its traditional range in eastern and northern Finland. The wolverine has been strictly protected in Finland since 1982. Thanks to this consistent protection and scientific monitoring, the population has slowly stabilized. Compared to the early 1990s, the wolverine population has increased about tenfold. Monitoring is carried out using camera traps, DNA samples from hair and feces, and reports from local wildlife observers. Nevertheless, the population remains fragile: the animals need huge territories of up to 730 square kilometers in largely unbroken landscapes, which have become rare in Europe.

Myths and Legends

In the traditional worldview of the Sami, nature is not merely a backdrop, but is animated: animals, stones, rivers, and mountains possess their own “personhood.” This animistic belief, in which every living thing has spiritual significance, continues to shape Sami culture to this day.

Der Vielfraß – auf Nordsamisch gearpmát The wolverine – called gearpát in Northern Sami – occupies a special place in this belief system. Although it appears less frequently in traditional stories than, for example, the bear (guovža) or the raven (ráibár), in many regions of Lapland it is considered an animal to be treated with respect and caution. In older traditions, its name was sometimes paraphrased or avoided because it was believed that saying it aloud could bring bad luck – a taboo that also existed for other powerful wild animals.guovža) oder der Rabe (ráibár), gilt er in vielen Regionen Lapplands als ein Tier, das man mit Respekt und Vorsicht behandelt. In älteren Überlieferungen wurde sein Name teils umschrieben oder vermieden, da man glaubte, das Aussprechen könne Unglück bringen – ein Tabu, das auch bei anderen mächtigen Wildtieren bestand.

In northern Scandinavian folklore, the wolverine is considered the epitome of endurance, cunning, and independence. It represents a force that cannot be tamed – a creature that finds food even in the depths of winter and defies even stronger animals. In stories from Lapland and northern Norway, it is described as a tireless wanderer that knows no fixed boundaries and survives in the wilderness where others fail.

Conflicts with Reindeer Herding

Despite its small overall population, the wolverine is the most significant cause of damage to reindeer in Fell Lapland, especially since there is a strict ban on hunting wolverines. On the other hand, the forest wolverine has spread outside the reindeer herding area without harming or disturbing humans.

These facts are taken into account in the wolverine population management plan, which divides the distribution area into three regions: the northern and eastern reindeer herding area, the rest of the reindeer herding area, and the forest area of Finland. The key measures set out in the management plan relate to strengthening the wolverine population outside the reindeer herding area, reducing the damage caused by wolverines to reindeer, and improving methods for monitoring the wolverine population. The connection between the wolverine populations and those in Scandinavia and Russia should also be maintained.

Nevertheless, the majority of reindeer herders support the presence of large predators in reindeer herding areas, provided that the damage they cause is compensated and predator populations are controlled. However, in order to receive this compensation, the killed reindeer must first be found. To this end, the reindeer are fitted with tracking collars that switch on when the animal stops moving, enabling the herders to locate the carcasses. To prevent damage caused by large predators, some reindeer herders have also started fencing in their reindeer during the winter months.

Back in the Forest with the Wolverine

I saw the wolverine again during my second stay in the observation hut. The wolves and ravens were also back. That evening, I watched the animals around my hut a little longer. I was so glad I was able to borrow the night vision goggles. Otherwise, I would have had no idea what was going on around me. The next morning, in daylight, the scene is completely different, another world. Once again, I sing a quiet song as I leave the scene of last night. At the top of the slope, I look back again, wondering if there might be someone else there who wants to say goodbye.

More Information about the Animals

Metsähallitus Parks & Wildlife Finland: https://www.largecarnivores.fi/species/wolverine.html

IUCN Red List: https://www.iucnredlist.org/species/9561/45198537

Book recommendations for Finland

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

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Recommendations for further Reading

Der Beitrag Rendezvous im Wald – Bei dem Vielfraß in Finnlands wilder Taiga erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Norway. Anyone traveling in the far north of Norway will quickly encounter the terms “Arctic” and “wild.” But some places fill these words with a very special meaning. One of these places is Hornøya—a small, uninhabited island east of Vardø, Norway's easternmost town, just a few kilometers from the Russian mainland. In spring, the barren rock awakens from its winter slumber when hundreds of thousands of seabirds return from their winter quarters to breed on the steep cliffs. I haven't seen many places like it and can highly recommend a visit. Here you can read about what to expect on the bird island of Hornøya, one of the best places for bird photography in Norway, and get lots of practical tips.

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Hornøya/Reinøya – Bird Cliffs in the Barents Sea

Even as you approach by boat, you can hear the screeching of the bird colonies. Kittiwakes circle above the waves, while puffins with orange feet and colorful beaks land on the rocky outcrops. It is one of Norway's densest seabird colonies and a natural spectacle that leaves you speechless with amazement. As soon as I leave the boat, I am overwhelmed by the sheer number of birds on the rocks and in the air above me. It takes me a while to compose myself and take my first steps on the visitor trail.

Even as you approach by boat, you can hear the screeching of the bird colonies. Kittiwakes circle above the waves, while puffins with orange feet and colorful beaks land on the rocky outcrops. It is one of Norway's densest seabird colonies and a natural spectacle that leaves you speechless with amazement. As soon as I leave the boat, I am overwhelmed by the sheer number of birds on the rocks and in the air above me. It takes me a while to compose myself and take my first steps on the visitor trail.

History of the Islands Hornøya/Reinøya

Hornøya and Reinøya look back on a long history of use. As early as the Middle Ages, the islands served as an important source of food for the inhabitants of Vardø: eggs and seabirds were collected from the steep cliffs, and their feathers and down were used as commodities. This form of use continued for centuries and was of great importance for supplying the population in the barren Arctic. At the same time, the islands served as landmarks for fishing and shipping in the Barents Sea and, as Norway's easternmost points, also marked a strategically important position near the Russian border. With the decline of traditional use and growing awareness of the value of undisturbed breeding colonies, attitudes toward the islands began to change in the 20th century. In 1983, Hornøya and Reinøya were finally declared a nature reserve in order to permanently secure the significant seabird populations and protect the sensitive ecosystem from disturbance.

Geology and Climate

The islands of Hornøya and Reinøya consist mainly of sedimentary rocks, primarily slate and sandstone, which were deposited during the Devonian period around 400 million years ago. Weathering and erosion have created striking cliffs that rise 20 to 30 meters high on the western sides and provide ideal breeding grounds for seabirds. The rock layers are part of the geological structures of the Varanger Peninsula area and document the geological development of Finnmark. The climate of the islands is strongly influenced by their location in the Barents Sea: it is a subarctic maritime climate with long, cold winters and short, cool summers. Despite the high latitude, the influence of the North Atlantic Current prevents the sea from freezing permanently. The islands are often exposed to strong winds, fog, and rapid weather changes, which limit the vegetation to a few salt- and cold-resistant species such as mosses, lichens, and low herbs. The climatic conditions and barren soils explain why the islands are almost treeless and the habitats are largely characterized by rocks and sparse tundra vegetation.

The Bird Eldorado on Hornøya/Reinøya

The islands of Hornøya and Reinøya are home to one of Norway's largest and most species-rich seabird colonies. Every spring and summer, more than 50,000 breeding pairs return to use the steep cliffs, rocky ledges, and burrows as nesting sites. Particularly numerous are kittiwakes, with over 25,000 pairs, guillemots, with around 15,000 pairs, and around 11,000 to 16,000 puffins, which dig their breeding burrows in the grass and soil layers of the island. In addition, black guillemots, razorbills, thick-billed murres, and fulmars are also permanent members of the colony. Cormorants, cormorants, and various species of gulls, such as herring gulls and great black-backed gulls, occupy the rocks and coastal areas. The enormous diversity and density of birds make Hornøya and Reinøya one of the most important breeding grounds in the Barents Sea and an internationally significant bird sanctuary.

The longer I observe the colony, the more fascinating the birds' survival strategies seem to me. The guillemots lay their eggs directly on bare rock, pear-shaped so that they don't roll away. Puffins use their powerful beaks to dig breeding burrows in the ground – perfect nurseries protected from wind and cold. Every little behavior here has a purpose. Nothing is random; everything serves the cause of survival in this harsh world. Life here is a race against time: within a few months, the birds must raise their young before the autumn storms sweep across the Barents Sea.

The Puffins on Hornøya 

Clown among Seabirds

Puffins (Fratercula arctica) are among the best-known and most charismatic seabirds of the north. With their brightly colored beaks, expressive eyes, and waddling gait, they resemble small, winged clowns.

Puffins spend most of their lives on the open sea and only return to the coast during the breeding season. Their plumage is water-repellent, and their bodies are streamlined – perfect for diving. In fact, puffins can dive up to 60 meters deep to hunt fish. Their wings, which appear rather clumsy in the air, serve as powerful oars underwater. The shape of their beaks is also functional: thanks to special barbs, they can carry several fish at once. This is a clear advantage when raising their young, as small sand eels are their preferred prey.

The puffin population on Hornøya is estimated at around 5,000 to 7,000 breeding pairs. However, there have been fluctuations in the number of breeding birds in recent decades, as various environmental factors influence the population. While the island remains an important breeding ground, puffins are under severe pressure in other parts of Europe, and some colonies have already shrunk considerably.

The changing Seasons and Photographic Highlights

The puffins return to Hornøya in spring, usually in March or April, to occupy their breeding grounds. March is a particularly exciting time for photographers, when the first males arrive on the island, which is still covered in snow. They know exactly where their breeding burrows are hidden under the snow and defend them vehemently against competitors. The females follow the males ashore and search for their mates, who are already waiting faithfully for them. Puffins are monogamous and stay together for life.

In summer, when the chicks have hatched, there is a lot of activity on the island. The parents tirelessly bring fish, and impressive aerial photographs can be taken. The moment when a puffin lands with a beak full of small sand eels is a popular motif among photographers.

In late summer, the puffins leave the island. The young birds leave their nests and embark on their first big journey to the open sea. The adult birds then gradually lose their bright colors, marking the end of the annual cycle.

Threats and Protective Measures

Despite their large population numbers, puffins face numerous challenges. One of the greatest threats is the decline in their food sources. Climate change is altering ocean currents and affecting the populations of small fish such as sand eels, which are essential for puffins. In some areas, food shortages and low chick survival rates are a serious problem.

Other human influences are also affecting populations. Overfishing, pollution, and disturbances from tourism can have a negative impact on breeding colonies. In some regions, puffins are also victims of bycatch in fishing nets, which further reduces their populations.

Various protective measures have been put in place to counteract these threats. In many breeding areas, including Hornøya, protected areas have been established where access is strictly regulated. In addition, nature conservation organizations are working to reduce bycatch and promote sustainable fishing practices. Monitoring programs also help to observe populations over the long term and adjust necessary protective measures.

A Place you want to see again

As our boat sets sail back to Vardø in the late afternoon, the bird colony is just as noisy as it was in the morning. I look back at the dark cliffs, the small white lighthouse, and the clouds gathering over the Barents Sea. I already know that I will definitely come back here soon. Preferably, when there is still snow on the island and the first puffins are fighting for the best nesting caves.

Book Recommendations for Birdwatchers

You can order the books via the links on Amazon. If you purchase a product via an affiliate link, I will receive a small commission, and you will help me to continue filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you.

Photo Tips for Hornøya

Light & Season

• In spring (March/April), the light is often clear and high-contrast—perfect for photographing puffins in the snow.
• In summer, the days are long and almost endlessly bright. If you stay overnight in the lighthouse on the island, you can take advantage of the soft light in the morning and evening.

Equipment

• Telephoto lens for detailed shots of individual birds.
• Wide-angle lens to capture the vast colonies and cliffs.
• Weather protection for your camera equipment and yourself. The paths were extremely muddy, so rubber boots are a good idea.

Behavior & Respect

• The island may only be accessed along the marked/fenced paths. Never stray from the paths – any disturbance can endanger a nest.
• Patience is key: the birds often come very close on their own.

Practical Travel Information

Getting there

• Flight: The nearest city is Vardø, accessible via the small airport Vardø Svartnes (via Tromsø or Kirkenes).
• Ship: Alternatively, the Hurtigruten postal ship line calls at Vardø daily.
• Car: Traveling by car is worthwhile, as there is a National Scenic Route along the shore of the Varanger Fjord with many interesting stops along the way. Read more about this in my article Varanger Fjord: witches, street art, wildlife on the National Scenic Route.
• To the island: During the season (usually March to August), a small boat runs several times a day from Vardø to Hornøya. The crossing takes about 10 minutes. Tickets are available at the tourist information office at the harbor. More information is available here.

Accommodation

• There are several small hotels and guesthouses in Vardø.
• On Hornøya, it is possible to stay overnight in the lighthouse .

Travel Season

• March to August: This is when the bird paradise comes alive. The puffins return in March, and the colonies are at their densest in July.

Other Activities in the Region

• Vardø: Norway's easternmost town offers exciting history – here you will find, for example, the memorial to the victims of the witch trials (Steilneset Memorial), various museums, and Vardøhus Fortress, a star-shaped fortification from the 18th century. In the evening, it is worth visiting Nordpol Kro, where Nansen used to drink his beer.
• A particularly scenic drive to the old fishing village of Hamningberg with good chances of seeing reindeer.
• Bird watching: The neighboring islands and along the coast of Varanger also offer excellent bird watching opportunities with chances to see rare Arctic bird species. There are numerous observation huts.
• Northern Lights: From September to March, there are chances to see the Northern Lights.

Book recommendations for Norway

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love the north as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about my Husky Guide Training – Two Months with Hetta Huskies in Finland or about Trekking on the Laugavegur in Iceland.

Der Beitrag Vogelfotografie Hornøya – Guide zu der Vogelinsel im arktischen Norwegen erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Germany. The cries of the birds echo across the Red Cliff like a wild concert. Below, the North Sea rages, while above, white silhouettes circle in the wind. I am standing on the highlands of Heligoland, Germany's only offshore island, looking out at the famous Lummenfelsen rock while northern gannets circle above me. Right next to me, just a few inches from the barrier, the large white birds sit on their nests. It is the end of May. While some gannets still cradle and warm their single egg with their large feet, other breeding pairs already have chicks in their nests. Some are tiny, others are already so big that the nest is getting crowded.

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The Kings of the Cliffs: Northern Gannets

They are impossible to miss: the majestic northern gannets (Morus bassanus, sailing over the sea with a wingspan of almost two meters. Their snow-white bodies, black wing tips, and yellowish heads make them striking creatures. Heligoland is the only place in Germany where these large seabirds breed – and only since 1991. There are now over 1,500 breeding pairs.

Northern gannets do not reach sexual maturity until they are about five years old. Once they have mated, they remain together for life. They also return to the same nesting site year after year and continue to expand it. This results in impressive nests that can weigh more than 50 kilograms over the years, with a high proportion of non-biodegradable plastic.

Northern gannets form strong pair bonds. Every time they return to the nest, the partners greet each other affectionately: they rub their beaks together and preen each other's feathers – a touching sight that offers great photo opportunities.

Tips for Nature Observers and Photographers

All seabird species that nest on the cliffs come to the island only to breed and raise their chicks. They spend most of their lives on the open sea. The best time to observe the seabirds breeding is between May and July. Mid-June offers a very special highlight: the “loon dive.” This is when the young guillemots, which are not yet able to fly, jump off the cliffs into the water. The Jordsand Association offers special guided tours at this time of year.

The “guillemot rock” can be visited via the developed cliff-edge path. Binoculars and a telephoto lens are useful for seeing the details of the more distant nests of the guillemots and razorbills. The gannet nests extend right up to the fence at the edge of the path, where you can observe the birds at close range. Photographers can actually use a wide-angle lens here and experiment with new perspectives.

As always with wildlife photography, it pays to bring time and patience. This is the only way to recognize the different behaviors of the animals and have the opportunity to experience them at different times of the day or in different weather conditions. For example, the colony behaves very differently in windy conditions than in stagnant heat. They are much more active in windy conditions, while in hot weather, they hold their open beaks up, pant, and no longer warm their chicks. Then you can see chicks of all sizes. The wind direction also plays a role in photo opportunities, because the gannets always land into the wind. When the wind is blowing onshore, they stand above the observation platforms for quite a while and can be photographed very well in flight. But be careful, you can quickly get white spots on your clothes.

What's more, if you have plenty of time and space on your memory card, Lummenfelsen on Heligoland offers great opportunities for creative photography or simply trying something new:

• High-key shots during the glaring midday light
• Low-key shots and backlit shots
• Detailed images of feathers, eyes, claws
• Multiple exposures
• Empty space
• Photographing through grass or bushes or partially covering the lens with something (flowers, feathers, prisms)

Bring enough drinks and something to eat. It's a good 800 meters to the nearest restaurant or Edeka supermarket, and also to the nearest restroom. Don't forget sunscreen and wind protection, because there is no shade and nowhere to take shelter on the cliff-edge path. Only in the neighboring meadow can you find some wind protection in the hollows of the terrain.

Here are a few of my favorite pictures:

Plastic Waste in the Seabird Colony

Helgoland is unique. Located 60 kilometers from the mainland, the island lies in the middle of the fish-rich currents of the German Bight—a hotspot for marine biodiversity. Here, seabirds find food in the form of shoals of fish and crustaceans. The red sandstone cliffs offer them a safe breeding ground, free from land predators. It is precisely because Helgoland is so isolated that Germany's only seabird colony has been able to thrive here.

Despite the beauty of the Lummenfelsen, Helgoland also has a tragic side. The northern gannets build their nests from natural materials such as algae, seaweed, and tufts of grass – but unfortunately also from plastic debris and fragments of nets. I can see into the nests from close up. I can clearly make out the orange and blue fibers of polypropylene ropes, remnants of fishing nets, and plastic strings. What looks like colorful decoration is deadly: time and again, adult and young birds get tangled up in it. The nets cut deep into their flesh or lead to an agonizing death by strangulation or starvation. Many seabirds also mistake plastic for food and feed it to their chicks, which then starve to death with full stomachs.

According to expert estimates, around 60 northern gannets and 100 guillemots die each year on Helgoland as a result of fishing net debris. The consequences range from injuries and organ failure to massive losses in breeding success. Intervention is usually not possible because if one were to approach the nests to rescue an animal, neighboring chicks would flee in panic and possibly fall to their deaths.

Other Species inhabiting the Cliffs: Guillemots, Razorbills, Kittiwakes, and Fulmars

The Guillemot (Uria aalge) is the namesake of Lummenfelsen. From a distance, they resemble small penguins, although they are capable of flight. They lay their eggs directly on the rocks without building a nest. The pear-shaped shape of the egg prevents it from rolling down. The colony is crowded, with loud calls and frantic fluttering. But amid the sounds of life, I also see several dead guillemots dangling in nylon nets at the edge of the cliff. The birds have become entangled in the plastic fibers and now hang as a silent memorial just a few meters from the path.

A little away from the guillemots, a few razorbills (Alca torda) nest. They are easily recognizable by their deep black color and the striking white stripe along their beaks. Razorbills have been breeding on Helgoland since the 1980s, using small piles of stones as nests. Kittiwakes (Rissa tridactyla) also belong to the breeding community on Helgoland's cliffs. In Germany, they breed exclusively on Helgoland and build small nests in sheltered niches, often made of algae and grass. But they also use plastic when they find it. Among the gulls, I also see a few fulmars (Fulmarus glacialis), elegant North Sea sailors with gray wings and a booming call.

Protective Measures for the Seabirds

Helgoland and its bird cliffs are under strict protection. The Lummenfelsen is part of a nature reserve, and visitors are guided along fixed paths; feeding the animals, drones, and climbing are prohibited. Research stations such as the “Institute for Bird Research” and initiatives such as the “Jordsand” association are committed to monitoring, litter collection campaigns, and education. Some of the net traps on the cliffs are removed regularly — a laborious but important contribution.

In addition, the EU is committed to reducing plastic waste and “ghost nets” – lost or deliberately discarded fishing nets that continue to catch and kill fish – as part of its Marine Strategy Framework Directive. However, as long as fishing waste and other plastic waste continue to end up in the sea, the problem will remain acute. Everyone can help – whether through plastic-free consumption, donations, or education.

Practical Information

Getting there

In summer, you can travel to Helgoland with the Halunderjet operated by FRS-Helgoline from Hamburg or Cuxhaven. The Cassen-Eils shipping company operates services from Cuxhaven, Bremerhaven, Büsum, and Langeoog. In winter, only the Cassen Eils shipping company's boat operates from Cuxhaven. From November onwards, travel to Helgoland is only possible from Cuxhaven with the Cassein Eils shipping company.

I traveled from Hamburg to Helgoland on the Halunderjet. The ship even had USB ports at the seats and a snack bar. At the landing stages, you can book a luggage service for a few euros. Then your luggage is taken directly from the ship to your accommodation. I had my bag taken to the Düne campsite. It took a while, so I used the time to take my first walk on the beach.

Accommodation

I definitely recommend staying on Helgoland for several days. I had planned three days for the northern gannets, and due to varying weather conditions (wind, wind direction, temperature), the behavior of the northern gannets was different each time.

Accommodation on the main island is extremely expensive. The best chance of getting good prices is to book very early (many months in advance) or to get a room at the youth hostel early on. If you want to book your accommodation on Booking.com , I would receive a small commission if you book via this affiliate link, and you would be helping me to run Fernweh-Motive. It won't cost you any more.

If you missed out on booking early but don't want to wait until next year, you can pitch your tent on the neighboring island of Düne. You'll need sand pegs and extra guy ropes, as it can get very windy. Protect your camera equipment from the sand. There is a charging station for cell phones and camera batteries at the campsite. However, the ten sockets are usually occupied and not all of them work. There are additional sockets in the lounge building at the harbor. Here you can sit comfortably and eat the snacks you brought with you. There is no kitchen at the campsite. So I was glad I brought my stove, which ensured my coffee supply in the morning.

One disadvantage of staying overnight on the dune is that you are tied to the dune ferry schedule and therefore miss the early and late light at Lummenfelsen. Tickets for the round trip cost €6 (as of 2025). One advantage is that you are close to the gray seals, which sometimes lie on the beach right in front of the campsite.

Luggage Storage

On the main island, there is free luggage storage at the Dünefähre ferry ticket office.

Food

On the main island, there is an Edeka supermarket and numerous restaurants in both the upper and lower regions. However, many of them do not open until the ships with day visitors arrive in the late morning/around noon. There are two restaurants and a small shop in the airport building on the dune.

Other Activities in the Area

• Other Activities in the Area
• Themed trails around the island for your own discoveries (history, culture, nature, architecture)
• Guided tours: island tour, nature tours, bunker tour, dune tour, lobster station, tour of the fishing garden of the Institute for Bird Research, historical urban tour
• Helgoland Museum with original replicas of lobster huts and lighthouse
• Bunker tunnels in the lowlands
• Watching seals on the neighboring island of Düne

Book Recommendations for Birdwatchers

Want to delve deeper into the hobby of birdwatching? Then I have three book recommendations for you. You can order the books* from Amazon by clicking on the images. If you purchase a book or other item via an affiliate link, I will receive a small commission and you will help me to continue filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be any more expensive for you.

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

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Recommendations for further Reading

Do you want to go birdwatching right away? Then check out my article about Birdwatching in the Pond Landscape Linum and about Neuwerk Island - Birdwatching in the Hamburg Wadden Sea .

Der Beitrag Helgoland Vogelfotografie – Basstölpel und andere Seevögel am Lummenfelsen erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Taking photos while traveling can sometimes be a challenge. The hand luggage on the plane weighs almost as much as the checked luggage. On trekking tours, there are quickly a few kilos too many in the rucksack, and the weather protection for the equipment becomes an essential component depending on the destination. If it were just rain and snow, but what can you do when it's not just raining cats and mice, but when the humidity is so high during photography that nothing dries out and when salt water is omnipresent?

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Experiences photographing during a Kayak Tour in Indonesia

I went on a 10-day sea kayaking tour in Indonesia at the turn of the year 2024/25. Our small group was traveling in the beautiful island archipelago of Misool, where we first paddled from island to island and later also in the jungle. Our accommodation was stilt huts over the water or tents on the beach, or in the jungle. It was around 30°C, it rained cats and dogs every afternoon, and our hands were always wet and swollen from the salt or rainwater. If they weren't wet, they were sticky from sun cream, insect repellent, and sweat. Once they were soaked, they hardly dried at all. The humidity reached its peak in the jungle, where it hung in the air in the form of misty clouds. Especially in the dark, you could see the fine droplets in the light of the flashlight.

I had my Sony Alpha with two lenses with me as well as a small compact Sony RX100 and a waterproof GoPro. You can find out how I protected my photo equipment from the humidity during the kayak tour in this article. I'll also give you practical tips on how to capture your tropical motifs in the changing light conditions.

What happens to the Camera in high Humidity?

You may be familiar with the situation where your lens fogs up when you take a photo in the snow and then go out into the warm. In this case, the camera is colder than the dew point of the water in the warm interior. As a result, the humidity in the warm air will condense on the cold camera after the photo has been taken. If you now step out of a cool, air-conditioned room into the humid, warm jungle, exactly the same thing happens, only the other way round. The camera fogs up until it has adapted to the warm ambient temperature. By then, however, a lot of moisture has already accumulated inside the equipment.

To avoid this, it is best to pack the camera in a Ziploc bag and wait until it has reached the ambient temperature. Then fogging due to humidity is no longer a problem, and you don't have to wait to take pictures.

On the other hand, if a camera has already accumulated moisture, then longer storage in an air-conditioned room is advantageous. The air conditioning dries the air as it cools, allowing moisture to escape from the camera.

Here's how to do it: Avoid Condensation on the Camera and Lens

• Get the camera used to the temperature: After entering the jungle, leave the camera switched off in the bag so that it slowly adapts to the outside air.
• Don't switch between air conditioning and outside : Avoid abrupt temperature changes.
• Drying : After the tour, leave the camera and lenses to dry in a well-ventilated room / in the sun.

Protecting the Camera Equipment in high Humidity and Rain

If the camera gets a few raindrops under normal conditions, it's no big deal. The drops will dry quickly. However, if this happens when photographing in the jungle in high humidity, the moisture remains on the camera and penetrates further and further. Under these tour conditions, it is then difficult to dry the already damp camera. However, if the moisture accumulated inside the equipment evaporates, the camera may fog up for a long time. This internal moisture is also a breeding ground for mold.

When photographing in high humidity in the jungle, it is therefore particularly important not to get the camera wet in the first place. Leave the camera packed in the bag for as long as possible and avoid changing the lenses. Also, be careful when replacing the battery.

I often have the following items with me on my photo tours and can highly recommend them for use in the jungle or at home in the rain or on a paddling tour with a camera. If you buy a product via one of these affiliate links from Amazon, I will receive a small commission, and you will help me to keep Fernweh-Motive running. It will not be more expensive for you.

This is how it works: Protect your Equipment from Rain

• Waterproof camera bags : Use a waterproof camera bag or case.
• Ziplock bags and drybags : Pack the camera and interchangeable lenses in Ziploc bags or dry bags. This will keep your equipment dry when you are not using it. Moisture that has already penetrated the camera equipment can be absorbed by the desiccant. This storage method is just as suitable on tour as it is after the tour.
• Silica gel : Silica gel packets in the camera bag help to reduce moisture. There is silica gel that changes color when saturated with moisture. As soon as a packet is saturated, it must be replaced or regenerated by heating it in the oven or microwave (follow the manufacturer's instructions). It is best to take spare packs with you on your trip if you do not have secure access to an oven or microwave.
• Rain cover : Pack a rain cover for the camera to protect it from sudden showers. A plastic bag held in place with an elastic band or braid will do if necessary. Leave the cover on even after the rain has passed, as water will still drip from the trees later.
• Protective filter : A UV filter protects the lens from moisture and scratches.
• Rain poncho: a poncho, which can be worn over the rucksack, provides additional protection against moisture. It can be quickly thrown on in the event of a sudden downpour and also protects the camera hanging around your neck.
• A towel: have a microfiber towel to hand to dry the camera immediately

Better safe than sorry: Rain as we know it from home is nothing compared to a tropical downpour. You're lucky if you can take shelter for the duration of the rain. If you have packed the camera in the rucksack in Ziploc bags, wear the rain cover over the rucksack, and also throw a poncho over yourself and the camera rucksack, your equipment is well protected.

Lens Fungus and Mold

Frequent fogging leads to water accumulation in photographic equipment. In the long term, this can lead to mold and fungus. This forms a white film on the glass, and the photos taken appear washed out. With a lens hood, the lens reflections increase. Removing the fungus and mold is usually difficult and expensive.

Rice as a Desiccant

The camera is damp, but you don't have any silica gel bags available? Then you can fall back on a tried and tested household remedy: rice. Fill a bag with normal, uncooked household rice and place the camera inside. For this to work, however, the camera must be completely covered in rice.

This is how it works: Camera Care after the Tour

• Cleaning : Wipe the camera and lenses thoroughly with a soft cloth after the tour. If the equipment has also been exposed to salt water, wipe it off with a slightly damp cloth beforehand.
• Moisture control : Store the camera in a dry bag or ziploc bag with fresh silica gel packets.
• Regenerating silica gel packets : Check whether the silica gel packets are already saturated with moisture and regenerate them in the microwave or oven if necessary.

Extreme Conditions and Safety for Photographers in the Jungle

Tropical heat and high humidity can also be challenging for photographers themselves. Drink plenty of water to stay hydrated. A sun hat and sunscreen are important to protect yourself from the strong UV rays. Mosquitoes and other insects are common in the tropics, so protect yourself with insect repellent. Did you think about the recommended vaccinations before your trip?

Photo Tips for the Jungle

• The tropical sun is often very strong during the day, and the light is harsh. Take photos in the early morning or late evening twilight to take advantage of soft, warm light and less harsh shadows.
• In the dense rainforest, the light is often diffuse. A higher ISO value and a larger aperture (small f-number) help to achieve clearly focused photos despite the lack of light.
• Detailed and close-up shots of leaves, moss, insects and dewdrops look particularly vivid.
• Use continuous shooting mode for animal photos and be patient. Animals are often difficult to see in the jungle and move quickly through the undergrowth.
• Photograph the rays of light that break through the canopy of leaves for atmospheric images with plays of light.
• Structure your jungle shots: There is often visual clutter in the rainforest. Pay attention to lines or natural frames such as tree trunks and leaves to direct the viewer's gaze.
• Tropical landscapes offer bright colors that are accentuated by strong contrasts. Use these contrasts deliberately to create points of attention in the picture.
• Wipe the lens regularly with a microfiber cloth.
• Use manual focus if necessary, as fog and moisture can affect the autofocus.

Conclusion

The tropics offer an incomparable variety of subjects - from exotic animals to lush vegetation and breathtaking landscapes. However, photographing in the jungle in high humidity requires special preparation, precautions, and techniques. With these tips and the right preparation, you can keep your camera in good shape, avoid humidity-related technical problems, and get the shots you want in tropical regions.

Book Recommendations for Photographers

Do you want to know more about photography and are you curious for inspiration? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Did you get a taste for it and want to delve deeper into the jungle? Then you might also be interested in my article Amazon of Ecuador: Travelogue and Tips around the Rio Napo and my article Muro de las Lagrimas - Guide for a Bike Tour on Isla Isabela.

Der Beitrag Tipps zum Fotografieren bei hoher Luftfeuchtigkeit im Dschungel erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Japan. Hokkaido, the northernmost island in Japan, is a fascinating destination for observing and photographing cranes. Especially in winter, the red-crowned cranes gather in large groups in the east of Hokkaido and attract birdwatchers and wildlife photographers from all over the world. Where can you see red-crowned cranes in Hokkaido? How can you take good photos without disturbing the cranes? This article introduces places in Hokkaido where you are sure to see cranes. You will also learn interesting facts about these elegant birds and what is being done to protect them.

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The Red-crowned Crane - The “God of the Wetlands”

The Manchurian Crane (Grus japonensis) - also known as the Japanese Crane or Red-Crowned Crane - is a symbol of good luck and longevity in Japanese culture and is one of the most elegant and rarest crane species in the world. It is also the symbol of the Kushiro wetlands in Hokkaido. In the language of the indigenous Ainu people, the crane is called “sarorun-kamuy”, which means “god of the wetlands”. Tancho is the Japanese name for these magnificent birds, which are one of the most beautiful and largest crane species in the world. It is known for its snow-white plumage, black wings, and its distinctive red spot on the forehead, which also gave it its English name “Red-Crowned Crane”. Interestingly, the patch is not made of red feathers but of skin and becomes larger and brighter when the crane is excited. Like other crane species, the Manchurian crane is known for its graceful movements and complex courtship dances, in which the couple jumps in sync and poses with flapping wings.

Facts about the Red-crowned Crane

• Distribution: North-East Asia; mainly in Russia, China, and Japan
• Habitat: Wet meadows, marshes, rice fields
• Body size: about 150 cm
• Weight: 7.5 to 10.5 kg
• Life expectancy: 30 to 70 years
• Social behavior: Lives in pairs or small groups, forms large flocks during migration
• Reproduction: Monogamous species, builds large nests, usually 2 eggs per brood, incubation period approx. 29-34 days

What do Origami Cranes symbolize?

Cranes are revered as a symbol of peace, happiness, success, and longevity. They stand for the protection of the family and the weakest in our society. In Japan, origami cranes are given as gifts to wish the person health, happiness, well-being, and prosperity, for example in the event of a birth or illness.

Successful Conservation Measures save the Red-crowned Crane from Extinction

The number of red-crowned cranes in Japan has fallen sharply due to the development of farmland and overhunting. At the beginning of the 20th century, only about 40 cranes survived in the depths of the Kushiro wetlands. In January 1950, several red-crowned cranes came to a cultivated field in Kami-Akan, in the east of Hokkaido. The owner, Mr. Yamazaki, tried to feed the cranes with corn. The cranes ate the corn and began to visit his field in the following years. In 1952, when eastern Hokkaido was hit by heavy snowstorms, the feeding also succeeded at the elementary school in Tsurui. Since then, many people have participated in the feeding and the population of cranes on Hokkaido has recovered.

In Japan, cranes are considered national treasures. For centuries, they have stood for longevity and happiness, which has ultimately led to numerous conservation measures (especially winter feeding) and projects for their preservation. At the beginning of 2025, their population numbers around 1500 animals.

Best Time to see Cranes in Hokkaido

The best time to see the cranes in the sanctuary is from late November to mid-March. During the winter months, when food becomes scarce, the birds gather in large groups in places where they are fed to survive the harsh winter. The snow and winter light make the scenery particularly magical and photogenic for observing the graceful animals.

The observation area at Tsurui-Ito Tancho Sanctuary is open to the public all year round; however, cranes rarely come close to the observation area from April to October.

Top Photo Locations for Red-crowned Cranes on Hokkaido

There are several places in Hokkaido where the cranes are fed with corn in winter when the ground is covered with snow and there is not enough food.

#1 Tsurui-Ito-Tancho Sanctuary

Location: On the eastern edge of Tsuri village, north of Kushiro.

Description: The Tsurui-Itō Tanchō crane Sanctuary was founded in 1987 by the Wild Bird Society of Japan (WBSJ) and covers an area of around 13 hectares. Ito Crane Sanctuary is named after the late Yoshitaka Ito, who dedicated many years to protecting cranes and donated the land for this purpose. Part of the cow pasture in the sanctuary becomes a feeding ground for cranes in winter. In the high season, more than 300 cranes can be seen at the same time. There is a shelter and a public toilet at the viewing area. If you want to warm up, there is a heated observation room with spotting scopes and binoculars and a view of the feeding site in the neighboring nature center. Admission to the nature center is free. During the opening hours from October to March, rangers are stationed here to provide explanations and information about Manchurian cranes.

#2 Tsurumidai

Location: On road 53 from Kushiro to Teshikaga

Description: Tsurumidai is an important feeding site for the red-crowned crane. Originally, there was an elementary school at this site, and the students started feeding the cranes in winter. After the school closed, the owners of a nearby dairy farm continued the feeding from mid-November to March. There is parking on-site, a café with a souvenir store, and a public toilet.

Cranes can also often be seen near the cow or horse pastures and stables, as they find food there. They are often frighteningly close to the roads, so keep an eye out when driving!

#3 Otowa Bridge over the Setsuri River

Location: Near Tsurui village, north of Kushiro.

Description: The Otowa Bridge over the Setsuri River is famous for watching cranes roosting. To protect themselves from predators, the cranes sleep in shallow water. The Setsuri River is ice-free in winter as water from hot springs flows into it. A roost with underfloor heating, so to speak, for the cranes.

Between mid-October and the end of March, up to 200 cranes can be seen about 200 meters downstream from the bridge. The cranes take off for their feeding grounds after sunrise. Some fly directly towards and over the spectators. On cold mornings, steam rises from the river and glows in the first light of dawn. Photographers gather here before sunrise. There is a footbridge built especially for photographers as well as two parking lots and restrooms. The Otowa Bridge is the only place where the red-crowned cranes can be observed sleeping without being disturbed.

Best time to visit: The early morning hours are ideal, as fog often forms, creating a mystical atmosphere and ideal conditions for photographers. Only the occasional crane can be seen during the day. Unfortunately, I didn't make it to the bridge in the early morning due to adverse weather conditions.

#4 Akan International Crane Center AICC (Akan Kokusai Tsuru Center)

Location: Kushiro, road 240 towards Akan Lake

Description: The Akan International Crane Center is one of the best and most famous crane-watching centers in Japan. Here you can see the birds up close and learn about their biology and the protection of their habitats. The center has an exhibition that provides information about the life of cranes and the relationship between humans and cranes. Outside, cranes are kept in breeding enclosures and, with a bit of luck and the right timing, you can watch chicks through special glass windows.

Next to the AICC is the Tancho Observation Center, which was founded in 1977. The building is open from November to March. This is where the farmer Mr. Sadajiro Yamazaki started feeding the cranes in 1950. The fields near the town of Akan are therefore considered the birthplace of the artificial feeding program for cranes and the area is known as an important wintering area. Although the citizens of Akan have been involved in crane conservation for many decades, the Akan International Crane Center (AICC) is a new facility that is also dedicated to public education and crane research.

Feeding times in the morning and afternoon offer excellent opportunities to watch the cranes approach and marvel at their dances.

Note: Opening hours daily from 9:00 to 17:00. An entrance fee is charged. There are food stands in front of the Crane Center and there is a rest stop with a snack bar across the street.

Photo Tips for great Crane Photos in Hokkaido

Equipment

To successfully photograph wild animals, you usually need a long focal length. Cranes in particular usually have a great flight distance and are gone faster than you can look. But things are different here at the feeding grounds. The red-crowned cranes are used to the feeders and people. They sometimes come very close to the barriers and you can observe them up close.

I worked at the feeding sites with a 100 mm - 400 mm zoom lens. I used the wooden fence that separates the observers from the cranes as a tripod stand. Since I wasn't using a tripod, I was able to move my camera faster and capture cranes flying in or dancing.

To photograph cranes from the Otowa Bridge at the roost, however, you need a longer focal length (at least 400 mm). A tripod is also useful here, or the bridge railing can be used as a tripod.

Light and Weather

The best time for crane watching is in winter. There is usually less snow in the area around Kushiro than in other parts of Hokkaido. Nevertheless, you have to expect snow, rain, and wind. A rain cover for your camera and a cleaning cloth are therefore essential in your camera bag. Most lenses have a lens hood. These are very useful when photographing in the snow as they keep your lens clean. Also, gloves and hand warmers if necessary. Be sure to take spare batteries with you, as batteries discharge more quickly in the cold, and keep your batteries warm in your trouser pocket.

Tips for a Variety of Motifs

Take your time and get creative. There are so many different motifs. Here are a few examples:

• Overview of the entire feeding site, possibly as a panorama
• Cranes in groups. Remember: groups with an odd number of cranes look more interesting than groups with an even number.
• Single shot of a crane in the landscape
• Dancing cranes
• Calling cranes
• Flying cranes
• Close-up of a crane's head
• High key shots (deliberate overexposure)
• Feeding
• Behind the scenes: people watching cranes
• Frog perspective, possibly with some snow in the foreground

Photography and Nature Conservation

Behavior in the protected area and at the feeding sites: Make sure to stay quiet and keep your distance from the animals. Noises and movements can easily disturb the birds, especially during feeding and mating. Regulations on signs and barriers must be observed. It is often windy. Hold on to your things so that they don't fly to the cranes on the pasture. If you see cranes away from the feeding areas, keep your distance! Every time they fly up, it costs the animals unnecessary energy.

Do not feed them yourself!

Take particular care at the Otowa Bridge: This is a popular spot where many people come at the same time. It is therefore important to remain considerate (also towards other photographers) and not to make any noise so as not to scare the birds away.

Practical Information

Getting there: Kushiro is the nearest airport and an important city that is well connected to other Japanese cities. From there, the protected areas and observation centers can be reached by public transport or rental car.

Guided tours: The tour operator Picchio offers guided tours to observe the cranes in Hokkaido. The starting point is the city of Kushiro.

Accommodation: Kushiro offers a selection of hotels that are a good starting point for day trips. In Tsurui village there are also some rural accommodations and guesthouses that allow nature lovers and photographers to be close to the observation sites. Early booking is necessary here.

Driving: Are you traveling by rental car? On the Adventure Hokkaido website, you will find helpful information on driving in Hokkaido. Be aware that there are many wildlife accidents in Hokkaido involving yezo sika deer, foxes, and cranes. Especially in the morning, evening, and at night.

Other Activities in the Kushiro Region

Kushiro Shitsugen National Park: Kushiro Wetland is the largest remaining wetland in Japan and the habitat of many bird species, including the red-crowned crane. There are various viewpoints and hiking trails as well as the Onnenai Visitor Center. From there, there is a system of boardwalks that take visitors through the forested wetland, open wetland, peat bog, and forest, and back to the visitor center. Also of interest is the Kushiro Marsh Observatory, from where you have a view over Kushiro and the wetland.

Kushiro Marsh Wildlife Conservation Center: On the way from Kushiro to the crane village of Tsurui, you will pass the Wildlife Sanctuary, where cranes, eagles, fish owls and other birds are rehabilitated. There is a small exhibition and a guided tour of the aviaries once a day.

Ainu culture: The indigenous Ainu culture in Hokkaido offers insights into traditional practices and life in close contact with nature. There are museums and cultural centers that promote the history and protection of Ainu culture, such as the Ainu Kotan Museum in Kushiro.

Conclusion on observing the Red-crowned Cranes in Hokkaido

Hokkaido offers a unique opportunity to see the majestic red-crowned cranes in their natural habitat. From protected areas to mystical river landscapes, the island offers special insights into the lives of these endangered cranes. The winter months transform the landscape into a magical world of snow, making crane-watching on Hokkaido an unforgettable experience.

Book Recommendations for Hokkaido

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love birding as much as I do? Then you'll definitely be interested in my article Birdwatching for Beginners - with Binoculars in Search of Happiness and my article Storks, Cranes & Co - Birdwatching around the "Stork Village" Linum.

Der Beitrag Kraniche in Hokkaido beobachten: Locations und Fototipps erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Portugal. The Atlantic island of Madeira is known as an evergreen island and a paradise for hikers and flower lovers. But landscape photographers also get their money's worth here: rugged coastlines, mystical laurel trees in the "fairy forest", mountain panoramas at sunrise or imposing waterfalls guarantee that the motifs will never get boring. In the following article, I will tell you about my favorite photo locations in Madeira.

#1 Fanal - mystical Laurel Forest in the Fog

My clear favorite among the photo locations on Madeira is the laurel forest Fanal. The most impressive thing is to visit it in the midst of a foggy day. You can wander along various paths or even cross-country between ancient, gnarled laurel trees. Due to the frequent fog, the trees are covered in moss and lichen. If there are fairies and forest spirits in this world, then it's definitely here.

We visited the Fanal twice and kept discovering new motifs and perspectives. We used both the wide-angle lens and the standard zoom lens. It is helpful to have a microfiber cloth with you to wipe off the fog drops. If the weather is sunny during your trip and there is absolutely no fog, then I can also highly recommend the sunset at Fanal.

Tip: next to the parking lot there is a camp with picnic tables, toilets and cooking facilities. There are various hiking trails around the fanal that looked interesting. Unfortunately, we didn't have enough time.

#2 Mountain Panoramas around Pico Arieiro and Pico Ruivo

Timing is everything... and the best time to photograph the mountain peaks and their surroundings is definitely at sunrise or sunset. Also, before the tour buses arrive from Funchal or after the groups have left. The highest peak (Pico Ruivo at 1862 m) and the third highest peak (Pico Arieiro at 1818 m) of the island's central mountain massif both offer great views. However, Pico Arieiro and the "buzzard's nest" are even more spectacular with their many steps and precipices. The advantage of Pico Arieiro is that you can drive up by car. To reach Pico Ruivo, you first have to walk up the paved PR1.2 hiking trail for about an hour. The starting point is the Achada do Teixeira parking lot. PR1.2 and PR1.3, which continue in the direction of Encumeadas, offer many great motifs along the way, such as the many trees that have died in a fire and dominate the landscape like white skeletons.

Note: The approach from Funchal to Pico Arieiro takes you along the steepest road in Madeira, Caminho da Barreira, with a gradient of up to 45%. It is easier to get there from the east via ER 207, ER 202, or from the north via ER 103.

The wind can be quite relentless up there on the peaks and can quickly make your fingers stiff. So it's best to pack gloves and a hat as well as a windproof/waterproof jacket (we were there at the turn of the year, maybe it's a bit milder in summer).

#3 Ponta de São Lourenço

The Ponta de Sao Lourenço peninsula, the easternmost tip of the island, juts out into the Atlantic Ocean. There are several spectacular and sometimes more or less dizzying viewpoints. And again, the best time to take photos is at sunrise. Unfortunately, I missed it. But I did manage to capture the evening light.

The Ponta do Rosto and Ponta de Sao Vicente viewpoints are the easiest to access, right next to one of the parking lots. If you want to go higher, follow the path to the highest point on the north side of the rocky coast, the Mirador do Abismo. The path is quite steep in places and slippery due to loose debris, especially on the descent. There are further viewpoints along the entire hiking trail, which finally ends at Pico do Furado (160 m) with a view over the protected area as far as the lighthouse.

The many lizards that were around us during a break along the way were curious. I have always found lizards to be very shy...not so these ones on the peninsula. They must have an incredibly good sense of smell and were keen on our sandwiches. Soon they were trying to climb up my leg, and at some point, one had made it over my back and onto my shoulder. It was a bit like Jurassic Park...;-)

At 7.7 kilometers, the hike is not very long. However, the many great views can quickly extend the excursion to 4 to 6 hours.

Tip: if you've got your telephoto lens with you, you can take good photos of the yellow Canary Island chickadees at the Casa do Sardinha cafeteria surrounded by date palms.

#4 Rock Needles at Ribeira da Janela

The rugged rock needles at Ribeira da Janela are one of the most famous photo locations on Madeira. They are at their best at sunrise and when the sea is rough. Then the spray splashes up on the rocks or, with the help of the ND filter, turns into a diffuse coating over the stony beach.

There is a viewpoint, a camper van site and toilets at the rock needles.

Tip: If you stay a little longer after sunrise, you can still see the sun coming out from behind the mountains (I took this photo at the beginning of January).

#5 Levadas - Madeira's Water Pipelines

If you go hiking on Madeira, you can't avoid the levadas. Levadas are irrigation channels that criss-cross the entire island in a sophisticated network. With a gentle gradient, the water is transported from the rivers in the rainy north to the cultivation areas in the dry south. Often over many kilometers. The levada hikes usually do not have any major inclines, as the canals on the mountain flanks run almost parallel to the contour lines. The maintenance paths are often very narrow and oncoming traffic can sometimes be a challenge. Many levadas also run through tunnels that have to be walked through. Sometimes with your head down and wading through large puddles. A flashlight should therefore always be taken along on a levada hike.

The levadas, with their sometimes straight, sometimes curved lines, offer great subjects for wide-angle or even slightly telephoto shots. The often dense vegetation on the mountain slopes or on the damp walls offers many opportunities for detailed shots.

Tip: Hiking trails are often closed for repair work. Check the Visit Madeira websitein advance to find out whether your desired path is open.

I have hiked the Levada do Rei, Levada das 25 Fontes and the Levada do Caldeirão Verde and can highly recommend all three. The hikes are very popular, so it's smart to set off early before hiking groups from Funchal arrive. And because the three hikes are so popular, there is a café with a toilet at the start of each one.

#6 Waterfalls - the Kings of Madeira's Photo Locations

Many levada hikes are crowned by an impressive waterfall. I found the waterfall at the end of the Levada do 25 Fontes particularly spectacular. The waterfall at the end of the Levada do Caldeirão Verde is almost as beautiful. Those who like to work with ND filters will get their money's worth here.

Fancy a refreshment? Even in January, one or two hikers didn't miss out on the fun and jumped into the pool under the waterfall at the Levada das 25 Fontes.

#7 Lava Rocks near Porto Moniz - perfect Reflection or wild Surf

With wind and swell, the surf that crashes against the north coast is so powerful that the air fills with spray. It doesn't take long before you can taste the salt on your lips. On the stretch of coast between the two natural baths in Porto Moniz, you can take impressive pictures of the forces of nature at these moments. With less wind and waves, on the other hand, you can get the perfect reflection in the natural pools between the lava rocks... but only if you get there before all the bathers.

Book Recommendations for Nature Photographers

Would you like to learn more about landscape photography? Then I can highly recommend the e-books from Fotonomaden. In the "slow & simple" photography e-books (winter, forest, water, flowers & blossoms) you will always find 40 photo ideas on the respective topic. Each inspiration is accompanied by several sample images as inspiration and simply explained, easy-to-implement tips. (only in German)

Have you ever been to Madeira and what were your favorite photo locations? If so, please write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Would you like to read more photo tips or are you looking for new photo locations? Then take a look at my article on Wildlife Photography with Respect or my interview with the Fotonomaden on the subject of winter photography .

Der Beitrag Madeira fotografieren – die besten Fotolocations für Naturfreunde erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Not every good picture is a good picture. But often you only realize that at second glance. And only when you look a little beyond the frame. What you then see can be the exact opposite of what the photo shows: trampling behind barriers, startled or fed wild animals or reckless noise and jostling at observation platforms. To ensure that wildlife photography is not at the expense of the animals, there are a few things to do...or not to do.

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links.

No picture without a Plan - Research and Preparation

A good photo needs to be planned. Landscape photographers know this and use apps such as Photo Pills to plan the light and the position of the sun or moon. Wildlife photography also needs to be planned, because the more you know about the animal species and its behavior, the better your chances of taking a good picture.

And why is good planning important for the animals?

If you know where and how the animals live, what rhythms they follow and when they react most sensitively to disturbances, then you can adjust your behavior accordingly and disturb the animals less. You will also be safer when you are out and about. Because some animals are not to be trifled with during the breeding season or when they have offspring. You should be aware of this. Examples of this are Arctic terns or broods with young.

Depending on the intention, I ask myself the following questions before setting off:

• Where does the species live at what season/time of day can the animals be seen and where exactly? What is the probability of a sighting?
• How do the animals behave at the respective season/time of day (feeding, resting, mating...)? How do the animals react to humans in this particular habitat (flight, aggression, approach)?
• When are the animals at their prettiest (plumage)?
• In which month can young animals be observed or courtship behavior?
• What protection status does the animal have? Does it live in a protected area and if so, what rules apply there?
• Are there any dangers from the animal or the habitat where it lives?
• What equipment do I need to photograph the animal? (e.g. macro or telephoto lens)?

Basic Principles: Do not disturb or destroy anything

As soon as we photographers have discovered an interesting animal, it is difficult to resist the temptation to get closer. I know this all too well myself. But in most cases, getting closer doesn't help anyway. The movement and noises you make as you approach will drive the animal away anyway. As soon as the animal stops eating, lifts its head and looks in your direction, you are too close and disturbing the animal. It will now flee or possibly attack. Or maybe it will just pretend to.

If you follow the following principles, the animals will thank you for it:

• Observe the animals' reactions and retreat as soon as the animal becomes nervous.
• Be vigilant during the breeding season so that you are not too close to the nest. Pay attention to the birds' warning calls.
• Young birds are usually curious and may even approach you. Retreat, however difficult it may be.
• Never get between the mother and the young.
• Do not follow animal tracks into the undergrowth, as this is an important place of retreat, especially in winter and during the breeding season.
• Every flight reaction of the animal consumes energy. This can be particularly critical in winter when food is scarce.
• Do not block the animals' escape route.
• Do not feed animals.
• Do not call in the direction of the animals and do not throw anything at them just to get a better photo.
• Do not modify nests or touch eggs.
• Do not use flash with nocturnal animals, as their sensitive eyes will be severely dazzled. A less intense continuous video light is more suitable here.
• Keep your distance from breeding caves, nests or reed beds (especially if you are traveling by boat).

Nest Photography

No picture is worth risking the life of an animal. But it can happen too quickly that parent birds are disturbed so much during breeding that they give up or abandon their young. Eggs and chicks then cool down, starve or become a snack for sea eagles or raccoons. It is essential to avoid disturbing the animals during this important time. This means keeping your distance from nests or feeding animals.

Nest photography is reserved for professionals who shoot with long focal lengths from a hiding place and know what they are doing. With telephoto lenses between 600 and 800 mm focal length, a photo hut or other camouflage and a lot of sensitivity for the animals, some things are still possible that are no longer possible with a smartphone. But sometimes a bit of luck is also involved, as there are also favorable breeding places under a roof ledge, in front of the window or on your own balcony, where you are then a little closer to the action. But even here it is not possible without being considerate of the animals.

On your own or on a guided tour?

It is comparatively easy to photograph birds and squirrels on your own in the park. But if you want to take photos of musk oxen or bears, it gets more complicated. You will probably need a guided tour with a local guide or a photo hut. Many places offer guided wildlife observation tours or you can use established observation platforms or photo huts, such as in Linum near Berlin or in the Kranorama in Mecklenburg-Vorpommern for crane photography. The advantage of observation platforms and photo huts is that visitors are concentrated and the animals are less disturbed as they are used to people at these observation points.

Worthwhile Locations for Wildlife Photography in Germany are, for example

• Cranes: Observation platforms and guided tours of the crane flight at the Linum ponds; observation platform and photo huts Kranorama in Mecklenburg-Vorpommern; crane flight Pramort on the Darß
• Deer: Various viewing platforms in Darß Ort, guided tours to the deer rut from early September to early October
• Wolves: Lusatia, for example, viewing platform at Berger See or Wolkenberg
• Gannets and seals: The only colony of gannets can be found in Helgoland. Seals can also be observed here, with offspring in winter.
• You can also photograph various bird species on the tours or from the observation huts of Ranger-Tours fotografieren.

Please note: the use of SLR cameras is sometimes restricted in the observation hides as they cannot trigger silently.

Would you like to take more photos? Then take a look at the e-books from Fotonomaden. In the "slow & simple" photography e-books (winter, forest, water, flowers & blossoms) you will always find 40 photo ideas on the respective topic. Each inspiration is accompanied by several sample images as inspiration and simply explained, easy-to-implement tips. (only in German)

The way to the Picture - compulsory Paths, Barriers, and other Regulations

Wild animals know forest roads and hiking trails. They often use them themselves and leave their tracks on paths. The animals know that people or cars move along them and leave just as quickly as they come. Irritation occurs when paths are left, people stop on the path or someone gets out of a stationary car. Then they quickly flee. Every flight and runaway costs the animal energy. In times of food shortage, heat, or cold, the animal is exposed to unnecessary, additional stress.

Before I go into an area to photograph wildlife, I check the following points:

• How accessible is the area? Is there a compulsory route for hikers? Are there any closed areas or other restrictions?
• Are there any additional seasonal restrictions, such as during the breeding or bird migration season?
• Are there viewpoints, observation platforms or huts that I can use?

Take Responsibility for the Place

Have you discovered a fox den or a lovely spot with a breathtaking view of the lake and its resting migratory birds? Or perhaps a nest of a rare bird species? What will happen if you share the photo with the location or even the coordinates on social media?

Please note: The location is often set automatically in the cell phone or camera and must be removed manually before uploading.

Book Recommendations for Wildlife Photographers

Would you like to learn more about wildlife photography? Then I have three book recommendations for you. You can order the books* from Amazon by clicking on the images. If you buy a book or another article via an affiliate link, I will receive a small commission and you will help me to continue to fill Wanderlust Motifs with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you.

Do you have any questions about my article? If so, please write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you want to start photographing birds right away? Then take a look at my article on Birdwatching in the Pond Landscape Linum or Birdwatching for Beginners - with Binoculars in Search of Happiness .

Der Beitrag Wildtierfotografie – natürlich mit Respekt erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.