Georgia. North of the village of Martvili, the water has carved a narrow canyon into the limestone. The steep, densely vegetated slopes and the winding, turquoise river are reminiscent of a fairytale world. Let yourself be enchanted and read here some practical tips for your trip to the Martvili Canyon in Georgia.

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links.

Tip: Are you traveling with a four-wheel camper or, like us, with Lada Niva and roof tent? Then I have a tip for a great place for the night near the Martvili Canyon at the end of the article.

Walk on historical Paths

In the 19th century the princely family Dadiani had discovered the Martvili Canyon in Georgia for themselves. They laid out a walking path along the river. Already at that time the path led over several limestone stairs and two small bridges to several viewpoints. This historic path has now been made into a walking trail about 700 meters long and starts directly at the visitor center.

The path runs parallel to the river through a shady forest. The slopes are lush with trees, bushes and ferns. The moisture allows lichens and mosses to thrive on the trees and everything is lush and green. A welcome change on the sunny and rather dusty day. Again and again we stop and soak up the beauty of Martvili Canyon. I was amazed at how different it is from the nearby Okatse Canyon, which we had visited in the morning. If you have the time, I would recommend you to just visit both canyons.

You can get to several viewing platforms via historic limestone stairs and two small bridges. At the end of the path is the largest platform with the best view. From here you look directly into the narrow canyon with its winding rock walls.

You are planning a road trip?

Travel Guide Book – Georgia – Caucasus*

Dieses Buch von OunTravela lädt euch ein, die wildesten Ecken Georgiens zu erkunden. Entlang von 24 Routen werdet ihr selbst zu Entdeckern von malerischen Landschaften, rauhen Bergwelten sowie von Klöstern, Festungen und jahrhundertealten Wehrtürmen. Neben detailierten Beschreibungen der 4×4-Tracks findet ihr in diesem Buch eine Vielzahl weiterführender Informationen über Land und Leute sowie Tipps für eure Planungen. Letztere reichen von Vorschlägen für Stellplätze für die Nacht über Vermieter von expeditionsfertigen 4×4-Fahrzeugen bis hin zu lohnenswerten Fotospots. Zu dem Buch könnt ihr außerdem eine Karte sowie die GPS-Tracks zur Navigation erwerben.

Boat Ride over the turquoise Waters of Martvili Canyon

In the past, Martvili Canyon was the bathing place of the Dadianis. How great it must have been to refresh oneself in the clear turquoise green water. However, due to accidents, bathing in the canyon is forbidden today.

On a boat tour, however, you can get almost as close to the waters of the Abasha River. The perspective from the water surface to the steep 40 to 70 meter high walls of the canyon is hard to beat.

After our walk to the viewing platform, we return the same way and continue a little further to the boat dock. There, we are equipped with life jackets, get a paddle in the hand and one minute later, we sit in a yellow rubber boat with captain. Bootsanleger. Wir werden mit Schwimmwesten ausgerüstet, bekommen ein Paddel in die Hand gedrückt und schon sitzen wir in einem gelben Gummiboot mit Kapitän.

We were lucky and got a boat with skipper for us alone (maybe because of Covid). A total of six people would fit inside. To see well then, you would have to fight for the front seat first.

During the boat tour, we tried to paddle along diligently. But I was so distracted by the natural beauty around us that I mostly put the paddle down again after three paddles and grabbed the camera. Fortunately, our captain was patient and probably did better without our interference anyway.

How to get Martvili Canyon in Georgia?

From Kutaisi, Martvili Canyon is just a stone's throw away. With your own car you will reach the visitor center after about one hour drive (47 km) from Kutaissi. It is a perfect stopover if you are on your way to Svanetia.

If you don't have a car, you can also book a day tour to Martvili Canyon from Kutaisi* . This is available in combination with Okatse Canyon and the popular Prometheus Cave, which alone are worth a visit.

Arriving at the parking lot, we were a bit disoriented at first. The visitor center is not immediately visible, instead there are a lot of providers for rafting tours. Since we only wanted to do the simple short boat ride at the bottom of the canyon, we walked past the other tour providers and the numerous souvenir stands and restaurants. Then, at the end of the trail, one can't miss the visitor center.

Tip: Check the weather forecast before visiting. In case of rain and snow, the boat tours will not take place.

Opening hours: daily from 10 am to 7 pm.
Entrance fee: for adults 17,25 GEL
Boat tour: 15 GEL
Location: At Inchkhuri village, 5 kilometers north of Martvili in Samegrelo-Zemo Svaneti region.

What else is there in the Area?

Martvili Canyon is well signposted and is the biggest tourist attraction in the area. Not far from the canyon there is also the Martvili Monastery and the Martvili-Chkondidi Cathedral. However, since we were more interested in nature and largely stayed away from interiors due to exploding covid numbers, we did not visit either.

Kutaisi is a good starting point for many great tours. Nearby are Prometheus Cave, Okatse Canyon and exciting Lost Places and Soviet architecture at Tsakaltubo.

If you want to continue from Kutaisi to Svanetia, be sure to check out my article about our Road Trip on the Svaneti Loop. By the way, you can rent this cool Lada Niva with roof tent in Kutaisi at Overlando. What better way to discover Georgia?

Trekking sandals, waterproof bags, sun hats and everything else you might need for your trip to the Martvili Canyon in Georgia you can find at Bergzeit.

Pitch for the Night

For us, one of the highlights of the region was our campsite for the night.

We were on the road with a Lada Niva and roof tent. I had previously searched on Google Maps for a possible camping site in the quite sprawling area at Martvili Canyon. At the bank of the river Abasha I finally found it (GPS: 42°28'42.3″N 42°22'47.5″E). Here you can stand (depending on the water level of the river and the weather) in the half-dried riverbed. A gravel road initially runs parallel along the eastern bank of the river. After about 1.5 kilometers, another dirt road branches off to the left in a hairpin bend toward the river. If the river would have even less water or with a vehicle with appropriate fording depth, the river can be forded here. Here is a lot of space and we had fresh water for cooking and for a cool bath. Since no rain was predicted (not even for the upstream regions) we were also not worried that the river would rise.

Read more Articles about Georgia

Okatse Canyon: Panoramic View and Stomach Tingling at the Hanging Cliff Trail

Yesterday's Visions of the Future: Soviet Architecture in Tbilisi

Road trip Georgia: in 4×4 Lada Niva from Kutaisi through Svanetia

Chiatura - Legendary Cable Cars, Lost Places, Soviet Architecture and More

Book Recommendations for Georgia

Do you want to know where the journey is going? Then I can recommend this travel guides* to you.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Have you ever been to Georgia, maybe even to the picturesque Martvili Canyon? How did you like it? Do you have any questions about my article? If yes, then write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love Eastern Europe as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about a Road Trip in Albania or about a Road Trip around the Baltic Sea.

Der Beitrag Martvili Canyon – Ausflug zu dem schönsten Canyon in Georgien erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Georgia. During the Soviet times, many impressive buildings were built in the former Soviet Union. Especially the bizarre, futuristic-looking buildings in the style of Soviet Modernism and Brutalism attract attention. And if you look closely, you can even discover large-scale mosaics or reliefs on some of the buildings. Also in Tbilisi, the capital of Georgia, unique icons of Soviet architecture and Brutalism were created during this time.

Non-solicited, unpaid advertising. This article contains affiliate links*, marked with an asterisk.

If you are interested in Soviet architecture, you will love Tbilisi!

We took a guided tour of Tbilisi's Soviet architecture and Brutalism with expert Nini Palavandishvili. This was comfortably by car through the city center as well as to the outskirts of Tbilisi. If you have a little more time, it is also possible to visit the buildings by public transport.

Other worthwhile day trips from Tbilisi include a visit to the Vardsia Cave Monastery*or a tour of the legendary Cable Cars of Chiatura*.

Yesterday's Visions of the Future: Soviet Architecture in Tbilisi

When one hears the term "Soviet architecture", one has in mind either the monumental buildings in the Zuckerbäcker style or the futuristic buildings of Soviet Modernism. Both architectural styles are very different. Here is a brief overview:

Soviet Realism (Classicism) 1950-55

In Stalin's time, architecture was not only a question of functionality and aesthetics, but rather a question of attitude. The general happiness promised by the communist worldview included people living in magnificent palaces. Urban planning was subject to certain rules and development plans, and architects planned according to strict specifications. Public buildings in particular were supposed to impress with their architecture and were seen as signposts to the future. Soviet Realism is also often called Zuckerbäckerstil "wedding cake style". This is because the often monumental buildings with their lavish decorations quickly make one think of the form and decoration of wedding cakes. The death of Stalin was also the end of this architectural style.

By the way, you can also see beautiful examples of the Zuckerbäckerstil during a walk along Karl-Marx-Allee (formerly Stalinallee) in Berlin .

Soviet Modernism from 1955 to 1991 and Brutalism

While Soviet Realism can still be seen as a signpost to the future, Soviet Modernism has arrived in the future. The buildings seem futuristic, stand out and somehow fall out of concept.

Soviet Modernism and Brutalism, unlike Soviet Realism, seem to dispense with any guidelines. Each building is different and unique. Sometimes the beauty of the buildings is only apparent at second glance, often they are scorned as an ugly legacy from the Soviet era. But those who take a closer look are quickly taken in by the architecture, which seems to follow no rules whatsoever. Unfortunately, many of these buildings were abandoned after the collapse of the Soviet Union, fell into disrepair and were demolished.

The roots of Soviet Modernism were laid by the French architect Le Corbusier. Particularly impressive are the buildings created in the late Soviet phase from the 1960s to the beginning of the 1980s. They are classified as "Soviet Brutalism". The term brutalism does not stand for brutality but for "béton brut". This is French and means "raw concrete" in German. This architectural style was significantly influenced by the architect Le Corbusier. Characteristic features are simple geometric shapes, emphasis on the construction itself and the use of exposed concrete.

In the buildings in the style of Soviet Modernism, instead of the raw concrete also often used cladding materials, such as marble, sandstone, shell limestone or cheaper substitute material.

Mosaics and reliefs of the Soviet period

As early as the 1930s, art was used to spread communist propaganda. Numerous large-scale mosaics were created, decorating the facades of buildings or even bus stops. They depicted scenes from the world of work, science, technology, as well as family and sports. In the Soviet republics further away from Moscow, national and folkloric motifs were also mixed in.

The commissions for the mosaics were given centrally to mosaic workshops. As a result, the artists who created the mosaics are often not even known. Only since the last years a systematic documentation of the still existing mosaics takes place. Just like many buildings of Soviet architecture and Brutalism, many of the works of art in Tbilisi are unfortunately already lost, dilapidated or built over.

Bank of Georgia (former Ministry of Road Construction)

The former Ministry of Road Construction is a timeless appearance of floating blocks stacked on top of each other à la Tetris. It is one of the most important buildings of Soviet architecture in Tbilisi and even in all of Georgia. Even today, the building is a real eye-catcher.

When planning the building, the architects followed the concept of the "space city", which is patented in Georgia. The idea is to use less floor space by building a house on columns. Nature should be less affected and light open spaces should be created, as between the tree trunk (the supports of the house) and the tree crown (the building's beams). In the end, everything should benefit the psychological well-being of the residents.

Since 2006, the building has belonged to the Bank of Georgia, which has used it as its headquarters since 2010. In 2007, the complex was listed as a National Monument.

Architects: Giorgi Chakhava, Zurab Jalagonia
Completion date: 1975
Address: 29a Iuri Gagarini St, Tbilisi, Gruzja

Tbilisi Skybridge

The skyscrapers on the outskirts of Tbilisi were among the most impressive pieces of Soviet architecture we visited. These three tall apartment buildings were built on the slopes in Nutsubidze Street. All three are connected by a skybridge. You can reach the bridge by taking the elevator to the 14th floor in the first block. For this you need a 20 Tetri coin, which you put into a slot machine in the elevator. I would not recommend the staircase, because it is mostly locked at the top. From the elevator you can walk over the bridge through the buildings. You will pass a small bench and a tiny store on the 14th floor. From the skybridge you also have a great view of the surrounding living quarters. At the end of the bridge you come out at the top of the slope on the street.

Architect: Otar Kalandarishvili, Gizo Potskhishvili
Construction period: 1974-1976
Address: Shalva Nutsubidze St, Tbilisi, Gruzja

You are planning a road trip?

Travel Guide Book – Georgia – Caucasus*

This book by OunTravela invites you to explore the wildest corners of Georgia. Along 24 routes you will discover picturesque landscapes, rugged mountains, monasteries, fortresses, and centuries-old fortified towers. In addition to detailed descriptions of the 4x4 routes, you will find a wealth of additional information about the country and its people as well as tips for your planning. The latter range from suggestions for overnight campsites to rental companies of expedition-ready 4x4 vehicles and worthwhile photo spots. You can also purchase a map and GPS tracks for navigation.

Museum of Archaeology

The Museum of Archaeology is reminiscent of an Egyptian temple. It is perched on a hill right next to the Saint Nino Monument. Unfortunately, the museum has never been opened. Nevertheless, it houses an archaeological collection inside and is therefore locked and closely guarded.

Architects: Sh. Kavlashvili and Sh. Gwantseladze
Completion date: 1988
Address: 9, Motsikulta Stsori Nino St

Mosaic at Saburtalo Fire Station

The huge mosaic on the facade of the fire station focuses on a fireman. Around him, several well-known buildings of Tbilisi can be seen. Among them is the medieval Metekhi Church, the Circus, as well as the Sports Palace and the former Iveria Hotel in the style of Soviet Modernism. In addition, the mosaic depicts buildings with Persian and Byzantine architecture. This juxtaposition is intended to illustrate that in Tbilisi East and West meet.

Artist: Givi Kervalishvili
Completion date: 1979
Address: Gorgasali St 34, behind Ortachala Bus Station

Ortachala Central Bus Station

Between 1964 and 1973, a new central bus station was built in Ortachala. This was designed to handle around 18,500 passengers per day. In addition to the actual bus stops, the station also includes restaurants, cafes, stores and a hotel. The facades of the building are clad with natural stone and in large part also glazed. Next to the staircase, the mosaic "History of Transport" by Zurab Tsereteli is placed on the facade.

Architects: Ramaz Kiknadze, Vladimir Kurtishvili and Shota Kavlashvili
Artist: Zurab Tsereteli
Completion date: 1973
Address: Ortachala Bus Station

Book recommendations for architecture fans

Can't get enough of Soviet architecture and mosaics either? Then take a closer look at these three books*. You will love them.

Technical Library

Completed in 1986, the Technical Library is another prestigious object of Soviet Modernism and Brutalism in Tbilisi. The structure is an elongated bar surrounded by a dark concrete ring. The windows are framed by a seemingly endless repetition of fan-like concrete swords.

Architect: G. Bichiashvili
Completion date: 1986
Address: 47 Merab Kostava St

Laguna Vere Water and Sports Complex

The swimming complex with three pools, slide, a sports hall and a tribune for 5,500 spectators was completed in 1978. It hosted not only national but also international events. However, the complex became less and less profitable over time and finally closed in 2014. Today, the facility serves car dealers as a workshop and warehouse. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to enter the complex. However, we were able to sneak onto the grandstand from the back and look down on the now overgrown pool from above.

There is also a monumental mosaic preserved above the entrance area on the street. It is one of the longest mosaics in all of Georgia.

Architects and artists: Shota Kavlashvili, Guram Abuladze, Ramaz Kiknadze, Koka Ignatov
Completion date : 1978
Address: M. Kostava St 34

Mother Georgia

Twenty meters high "Mother Georgia" was erected to celebrate the 1500th anniversary of Tbilisi. In one hand she holds a bowl of wine with which she welcomes guests. But in the other hand she carries a sword with which she fights off enemies. The statue, originally made of wood and later covered with aluminum, was replaced by a new one in 1997.

Sculptor: Elguja Amashukeli
Completion date: 1958
Address: Sololaki St

Radio Computing Centre

The Radio Computing Centre belongs to the Radio Fortuna Holding. It was formerly also known as Transcaucasia Power Control Centre or Managing Computing Centre of the United Board of Energy System of Transcaucasia.

Architects:: S. Kavlashvili, G. Djanebirdze and S. Katsitadze
Completion date: 1973

Other Buildings

Unfortunately, our time in Tbilisi was very limited. But since I immediately took the city into my heart, I hope to return soon. Because there are many more impressive buildings of Soviet architecture and in the style of Brutalism waiting, such as the campus of the University of Tbilisi.

Book Recommendations for Georgia

Do you want to know where the journey is going? Then I can recommend this travel guides* to you.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Did you like the Soviet Architecture and Brutalism in Tbilisi? Do you have any questions about my article? If yes, then write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love Soviet architecture and lost places as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about Eisenhüttenstadt or about the GDR Architecture in Berlin.

Der Beitrag Zukunftsvisionen von Gestern: Sowjetische Architektur in Tiflis erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links.

Adventurous Gravel Road to Okatse Canyon

Honestly: The view and the trail at Okatse Canyon are beautiful and worth a visit. But the approach over the gravel road was the real highlight for us.

That was not planned. Actually we wanted to go to the visitor center. But our route in the navi led us by mistake over a wild gravel road directly t the Okatse Canyon. The visitor center was just behind the turnoff to the gravel road. But we discovered it only on the way back.

The dirt road to the canyon doesn't look too bad at first. But soon the road becomes narrower, stonier and more challenging. Bumps, loose debris and larger stones require a lot of sensitivity when driving. I have linked you to my YouTube video of our road trip. You can see a part of the track to Okatse Canyon from minute 3:20 to 3:50. There you get a good idea how much we were shaken.

Our little Lada Niva mastered the 2,3 kilometers in an outstanding manner. When we arrived at Okatse Canyon we didn't have tickets, because they are only available at the visitor center. We didn't want to go back or walk, because we were happy that we arrived in one piece.

Where do you get a car like that? A Lada Niva with roof tent as rental car? Have a look at Overlando..

From the Visitor Center to the Hanging Cliff Trail

The visitor center in the village of Gordi is actually hard to miss (as long as you don't turn too early). The futuristic building is located right on the main road. Here you can get tickets and have a look at the miniature model of the canyon.

From here you have three options to get to the Hanging Cliff Trail:

1. You walk 2.2 kilometers of paved trail that takes you partly through the historic Dadiani Forest. The trail is said to be quite beautiful. The way back is on the same route.
2. In front of the visitor center, local drivers are waiting with their four-wheel drive vehicles, such as the Mitsubishi Delica. They will take you to the entrance of Okatse Canyon and back for about 50 Lari.
3. Or you can drive yourself, like we did. For this you should have a four-wheel drive vehicle with a lot of ground clearance and good nerves. The track is usually quite narrow and from time to time the canyon cabs come towards us. We made good time and oncoming drivers were kind enough to give way to us.

Here is an overview map for orientation. You can see the gravel road to Okatse Canyon as well as the Visitor Center, the entrance to the Hanging Cliff Trail and the viewing platform.

Canyon cabs are waiting at the parking lot at the entrance to the Hanging Cliff Trail at Okatse Canyon for the return trip. There is also a restroom and a small stand with drinks.

Tip: There are no signs pointing the way to the canyon. We got there using the free offline maps from the app Maps Me .

You are planning a road trip?

Travel Guide Book – Georgia – Caucasus*

Dieses Buch von OunTravela lädt euch ein, die wildesten Ecken Georgiens zu erkunden. Entlang von 24 Routen werdet ihr selbst zu Entdeckern von malerischen Landschaften, rauhen Bergwelten sowie von Klöstern, Festungen und jahrhundertealten Wehrtürmen. Neben detailierten Beschreibungen der 4×4-Tracks findet ihr in diesem Buch eine Vielzahl weiterführender Informationen über Land und Leute sowie Tipps für eure Planungen. Letztere reichen von Vorschlägen für Stellplätze für die Nacht über Vermieter von expeditionsfertigen 4×4-Fahrzeugen bis hin zu lohnenswerten Fotospots. Zu dem Buch könnt ihr außerdem eine Karte sowie die GPS-Tracks zur Navigation erwerben.

Hanging Cliff Trail and Viewing Platform at Okatse Canyon

With the help of the ticket inspector at the entrance to Okatse Canyon, we were able to book online tickets on the spot. To the Hanging Cliff Trail we went down 140 meters over a metal staircase.The trail itself consists of a footbridge and a metal railing and is about 780 meters long. It hangs on the steep side of the canyon between 80 and 120 meters high above the valley and is attached to the canyon wall with massive steel beams and guy ropes.

The highlight of the Hanging Cliff Trail is the viewing platform that extends 20 meters into the canyon. With the metal grating as the floor, the panoramic view even extends far into the depths, making you feel like you're floating in mid-air.

The Okatse River is about 14 kilometers in length. The gorge, formed by erosion, is about two kilometers long, between 3 and 20 meters wide and 20 to 200 meters deep. From the platform, the view over the river valley is particularly impressive. However, in summer, when everything is green and overgrown, you can't see very much of the long river valley. Only in some places you can see the valley floor of the white limestone and the river Okatse.

Had enough thrills? Then it will be a bit strenuous, because now you have to climb the stairs. Shortly after, you will come to a second paved path that will take you back to the parking lot.

Tip: Combine the tour with a trip to Martvili Caynon. This is about 24 km away and can be reached after about 30 minutes driving time.

Besides the Hanging Cliff Trail, there is supposed to be a second trail and a metal staircase down to the Okatse River. The canyon is said to be only four meters wide here. Unfortunately, we only learned about this trail after the fact, so we missed it.

Good to know

Opening hours: daily from 10 am to 6 pm
Location: Gordi village in Khoni municipality, Imereti region.
Tickets: vailable at the visitor center or online; adults 17,25 GEL (about 4,80 Euro)
Duration: if you go on foot you should allow 2 to 3 hours.
Directions to get there: From Kutaisi to Okatse Canyon: 50 km; about 70 min. driving time.

Tip: Check the weather forecast before you go. Visiting the Hanging Cliff Trail is not allowed during rain and snow.

Book Recommendations for Georgia

Do you want to know where the journey is going? Then I can recommend this travel guides* to you.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Have you ever been to Georgia, maybe even to the Okatse Canyon described here? How did you like it? Do you have any questions about my article? If yes, then write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love road trips as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about a Road Trip in Albania or about the einen weitern Road Trip around the Baltic Sea.

Der Beitrag Okatse Canyon: Panoramablick und Magenkribbeln am Hanging Cliff Trail erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Non-solicited, unpaid advertising. This article contains affiliate links*, marked with an asterisk.

What you will find in my Article:

Albania - an underestimated Travel Destination
Road Trip Albania - Map with our Route and Pitches
Our Motorhome "Arwak" - the Iveco 40/10 WM
15 Highlights for your Road Trip in Albania
#1 With the 4x4-Camper to Theth
#2 Ferry Trip over the Koman Lake
#3 The Valbona Valley in the Albanian Alps
#4 The "Offroad" track at the Black Drin
#5 Lake Ohrid & Detour to Macedonia
#6 Tirana - Architecture and History
#7 Berat - the City of 1000 Windows
#8 Osum Canyon, Thermal Springs in Benje and Lengarica Canyon
#9 Gjirokastra with its imposing fortified Houses
#10 In the dry Riverbed from Tepelene to Himare
#11 Albania's Coast - a little bit of everything
#12 Saranda and Butrint
#13 Lost Places
#14 Bunker
#15 Monuments from the Communist Era
General Tips for your Roadtrip in Albania
Roadbooks - Travel Guide - Road Map (sorry, the books here are only in german language)
Recommendations for further Reading - more Roadtrips

Albania - an underestimated Travel Destination

A brief Summary of recent History

Albania was led for about 40 years by the communist dictator Enver Hoxha. Under Hoxha Albania became the first and only atheist state in the world. In addition, the dictator drove the country into complete isolation: in 1968 he resigned from the Warsaw Pact, breaking off relations with the Soviet Union. After the death of Mao (1976) and the beginning of the first reforms in China, he also broke off with China. Meanwhile, thousands of Albanians fell victim to " clean-up operations ", the population was controlled by the secret police and the country was on the verge of economic collapse.

Only after Enver Hoxha's death in 1985 was there new hope. At least until the so-called pyramid scandal, a money laundering business that drove the civilian population into financial ruin. Mass protests against the government and a civil war in 1997 followed, state institutions were devastated and anarchic conditions prevailed. The government was helpless. With the support of an international peacekeeping force and humanitarian aid troops, security was restored and reconstruction began.

Tourism in Albania

During the dictatorship tourism was strictly regulated. Not everyone was allowed into the country. Hippies were unwanted, women's skirts were not allowed to be too short and men's hair not too long. They probably wouldn't have let us in at that time.

The number of tourists reached a low point during the civil war with 119,000 visitors. It was 10 years later, in 2007, that over one million guests came to Albania for the first time. By 2017 the number had risen to 4.6 million. That is still not many. For comparison: the average number of visitors in countries in Southern Europe is 16 million (www.laenderdaten.info).

What makes Albania so interesting for tourists? A lot is still in the development stage here. Even the locals themselves are still exploring their own country. In the era of all-inclusive mass tourism, travellers can feel like discoverers here. Much of nature is freely accessible. There is a freedom of movement that is no longer available in many European countries. The best example is the freedom to camp, which makes every road trip in Albania a highlight. Another point is also the interesting history. Especially for all those who are interested in the communist past.

Tourism has now been recognised as a source of income. The tourist infrastructure has developed rapidly since then. In the Albanian Alps, great importance is attached to sustainable tourism. But on the coast, beach hotels are springing up like mushrooms and gravel roads are increasingly being asphalted. To the regret of the passionate offroad drivers. But in many areas of the interior tourism has not yet arrived. And that was exactly the reason why we travelled to Albania in summer 2018. We wanted to experience the original, rural Albania.

Road Trip Albania - Map with our Route and Pitches

Our entire route from Berlin to Saranda was 3,063 kilometres long. We drove for four weeks through eight countries: Germany, Austria, Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia-Herzegovina, Montenegro, Albania, Macedonia. In Saranda, in the very south of Albania, we handed over the camper to our friend Ingmar. Ingmar is co-owner of the Iveco and drove it back to Berlin on his own road trip. We ourselves flew back from Corfu to Berlin. Carsharing & Travelsharing - practical, isn't it?

On the map you can see all the highlights and night pitches during our road trip in Albania. I have entered the route we drove and also added a few photos. So you have a good idea what to expect.

Our Motorhome "Arwak" - the Iveco 40/10 WM

Our faithful vehicle and our loyal companion. The tour in Albania was now our second bigger road trip, where "Arwak" brought us back home healthy and filled with many great experiences. But with the name it all has to work out. Because "Arwak" is the name of one of the horses that pulls the wagon of the sun goddess Sol along the arch of heaven. What could be more suitable for a motorhome? Do you want to know more about Arwak, the Iveco 40/10 WM? Then look here, he has his own page.

back to the overview

15 Highlights for your Road Trip in Albania

The small country Albania has a lot to offer in terms of landscape and architecture: Mountains with an alpine character, wild rivers, blue lakes, white beaches, canyons and some exciting gravel roads. About 200.000 bunkers are embedded in this beautiful landscape. In addition there are typical fortified houses, bizarre lost places and monuments from the communist era. In the following I have compiled 15 highlights of our road trip in Albania. Each one contains a short description, tips for your own explorations and of course many photos.

#1 With the 4x4-Camper to Theth

The trip to the mountain village of Theth was the first stage of our road trip. The village, which has just 4,000 inhabitants, is located in the Albanian Alps at an altitude of 742 meters and in 2018 could only be reached via a dirt road. In the meantime the road is said to have been asphalted.

The Theth National Park was established in 1976. It is a fine example of a rural, ancient cultural landscape that stretches across the valley. The valley is surrounded by high mountains, mountain forests and pastures. The landscape is similar to our Alps and the peaks reach up to 2,600 metres. In the village itself, the large grey stone houses stand far apart. In between there are always vegetable gardens and meadows. A rural idyll! If you have a little more time you have the possibility for extensive hikes on well marked paths in a breathtaking landscape.

In my separate article Roadtrip Albania - with the 4x4-Camper to Theth you will learn why this mountain village was one of our highlights.

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#2 Ferry Trip over the Koman Lake

A trip with the ferry over the Koman Lake is an absolute highlight and should not be missing on any Albania trip. The about 2,5 hours lasting trip through the Albanian Alps is one of the most beautiful river trips I have experienced so far. To the left and right are the rocky canyons of the Drin and remind me of the Norwegian fjords. The reservoir crosses the mountain range here over a length of 34 kilometres. The valley is not wider than 400 meters and the mountains rise several hundred meters. At its narrowest point, the Koman Lake is only 50 metres wide.

The trip with the ferry from Koman to Fierze was the second stage of our road trip through Albania. In my separate article you can read more about this unique Ferry Trip over the Koman Lake.

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#3 The Valbona Valley in the Albanian Alps

From the ferry pier in Fierze it is about 43 kilometres to Valbona in the north-east of Albania. The mountain village lies in the valley of the river Valbona, secluded in the Albanian Alps. On both sides of the valley rise rugged rocks and high mountains with peaks of up to 2,694 metres. Bears, wolves and chamois live here. The whole area around Valbona is protected as National Park Valbona Valley.

The Valbona Valley is easily accessible via an asphalt road, even in winter. The Valbona river, interspersed with rocks, accompanies the road for a while, but then disappears deep into the bedrock of the karst rocks. At the end of the road, there is only a dirt road through the dry riverbed to the village of Rragam. But no matter if road or dirt road: both are surrounded by a fantastic, wild landscape of forests, mountains, caves, mountain lakes and alpine meadows.

Due to the beauty of the landscape and the great hiking possibilities Valbona has become a tourist magnet. There are many small guesthouses and rooms. A few years ago, when a hotel chain wanted to build a large hotel complex here, the inhabitants united to face the excavators. They prevented the construction of the hotel and preserved the valley for a more sustainable tourism.

The main attraction of the Valbona Valley is the numerous hiking possibilities. There are easy walks, tours lasting several days and strenuous summit tours for experienced mountaineers. The one-day hike from Valbona over the Valbona Pass (1812 m) to Theth is popular. There is even the possibility to return from Theth to Valbona by minibus and ferry across the Koman lake to Valbona to a parked vehicle. The hike can also be booked as an organized round trip from Shkodra via Koman and Valbona to Theth and back to Shkodra.

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#4 The "Offroad" track at the Black Drin

The route along the Black Drin is a cult route and extremely popular among off-road travellers. The track in the north-east of Albania takes you through a varied landscape with fantastic views of the Black Drin river valley. The fertile mountain slopes are used for farming and you will see small farmsteads and at the end of the track also small settlements.

In serpentines, the 56 kilometres long track first winds down to the river valley. Adventurous bridges span the Black Drin and make the driving pleasure even more enjoyable. In my separate article you can read what to expect on The "Offroad" track at the Black Drin .

Ideas for your next Road Trip

Are you looking for ideas and inspiration for your next road trip or for your camping stove? Then I can recommend these books*.

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#5 Lake Ohrid & Detour to Macedonia

Lake Ohrid is the second largest lake in the Balkans and is partly in Macedonia and partly in Albania. The deep blue lake is framed by an impressive mountain scenery with peaks of up to 2,200 metres. The age of Lake Ohrid is estimated at two to five million years. It is therefore one of the oldest lakes in the world. Animal and plant species have developed here that are found nowhere else. The shores of the lake are also among the oldest settlement areas in Europe.

Lake Ohrid is an important nature reserve and is therefore protected as UNESCO biosphere reserve. Furthermore, the lake and the old town of Ohrid are listed as UNESCO World Heritage. There are many places worth seeing on the lake shore, camping facilities and the opportunity for a very special dive.

Time Travel in the Village Lin

A visit to the village Lin, on the western shore of Lake Ohrid, is like a journey through time. Narrow alleys lead to the shore, where there are countless moorings for small rowing and motor boats. In the centre of the village you can forget the time with a drink on the terrace of the restaurant Leza. A small hiking trail leads you around the headland. You will see gardens on the shore of Lake Ohrid where the locals grow their vegetables. On the rocks you will also find great places for a picnic with a view. And maybe you'll even have a few of the sheep running free here to keep you company.

Side Trip to Macedonia - the City of Ohrid and diving in the "Bay of Bones"

If you have the time, then a trip to Macedonia is definitely worthwhile. The city of Ohrid is a real gem. Especially the church of St. John is worth seeing and certainly one of the most photographed churches in the country.

If you continue east from Ohrid, you will arrive after 30 minutes in the Bronze Age. In the "Bay of Bones" remains of a Bronze Age lake dwelling were found. The settlement has been reconstructed and is now an open-air museum. Do you know how to dive? Then what about a dive into the Bronze Age? Under water you can still see remains of the original piles, as well as other artefacts such as shards, jewellery or bones.

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#6 Tirana - Architecture and History

Architectural Highlights

Tirana - the capital of Albania - is a city with many faces. In the centre, old and new, poor and rich, and western and eastern culture mix. You can see this particularly well at the central Skanderberg Square. Here a mosque stands next to the Soviet-style monumental buildings. New buildings with chic shops mix with old buildings. After a 10-minute walk, you will reach a particularly building from here: the Pyramid of Tirana. The building was inaugurated in 1988. At that time it housed the Enver Hoxha Museum and was covered with gold mirrored plates. It is said to have been the most expensive communist building to that time. Today it is a lost place in the middle of the city. And in the future? There are plans to convert the pyramid into a youth centre.

But it is not only the architecture that attracts attention. There are also the colours. Bright red, bright blue or sunny yellow. Hardly any colour was left out when the artist and then mayor Edi Rama decided in 2000 to banish the grey tristesse from the city. But he also declared war on illegal development in Tirana. According to the motto "Clean and Green", the parks were cleaned up and newly planted. His program was effective, and Tirana today looks quite modern and tidy - at least in the center.

Book Recommendations for Architecture Fans

Are you as fascinated by Soviet-era architecture as I am? Then you will be thrilled by these three books*.

History in Bunk'Art 2

However, the process of coming to terms with Albania's history is more hidden. It is located under the city in the former nuclear shelter of the Ministry of the Interior. Bunk'Art 2 has been inviting visitors to learn about Albania's history since 2016. The focus is on the reappraisal of the time during the communist government. Bunk'Art 2 documents the history of the Albanian secret police from 1912 to 1991. The museum is very informative, moving and shocking at the same time. Details of the secret police's brutal actions against the Albanian population are shown for the first time. In the cool and dark atmosphere of the bunker, the victims of political persecution are given names and faces. If you want to understand Albania, then I highly recommend a visit to Bunk'Art 2.

Location: Abdi Toptani, within 3 minutes walking distance from Skanderberg Square.
Opening hours: daily from 9 am to 6 pm

And after Bunk'Art 2? About 100 meters south is the Shetitorja Murat Toptani. The road is closed for cars and there are nice cafes and cosy restaurants. Here you can let your visit to the museum settle down.

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#7 Berat - the City of 1000 Windows

With more than 2400 years of settlement history Berat is one of the oldest towns in Albania. The old craft and trade town is picturesquely situated on a hill on the river Osum. Narrow alleys, steep stairs and picturesque nooks and crannies characterize the town. The Ottoman houses from the 18th/19th century stand densely packed and line up the hill. White facades, black slate roofs and large windows offer a great panorama from the opposite side of the river. By the way, the many large windows gave Berat the nickname "City of 1000 Windows".

Berat is one of the most popular destinations in Albania. Since 2015 the city is listed as UNESCO World Heritage Site. Besides the Ottoman Old Town and the beautiful Trinity Church, the castle "Kalaja e Beratit" is also one of the sights. This medieval castle is also the only inhabited castle complex from Ottoman times in Albania.

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#8 Osum Canyon, Thermal Springs in Benje and Lengarica Canyon

Steep gorges in Osum Canyon and gravel roads that lead through breathtaking mountain landscapes. Relax in the warm thermal springs near the village of Bënja or do a spectacular river hike through Lengarica Canyon. Albania shows itself from its most beautiful side on this stage. And because there is so much to experience here, I have also written a separate article about Osum Canyon, the thermal springs in Benje and Lengarica Canyon .

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#9 Gjirokastra with its imposing fortified Houses

The houses in Gjirokastra are not comparable with anything I have seen before. Thick stone walls and small windows are supposed to protect life and limb. It were always the men who did something wrong and then entrenched themselves in the upper floors of the fortresses. For fear of the blood revenge. Fortunately, the blood revenge no longer exists ... The impressive fortresses and towers are still standing and are witnesses of a turbulent past. You can find many of these houses in the city of Gjirokastra.

Gjirokastra is located in the south of Albania and is one of the oldest cities and also an important cultural center of Albania. Already in 1961 the communist government declared Gjirokastra as a "museum city". Thus, the city escaped the radical changes that other places experienced during the communist era. Since 2005, Gjirokastra is also on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

You can also visit Gjirokastra with a guided day tour from Tirana.

On the hills of the city lie hundreds of uniquely preserved stone fortified houses, also called kulla. The plots are surrounded by high walls. One of the largest and most magnificent fortified houses in Gjirokastra is the Zekate house of the wealthy Zeko family. It was built in 1811/12 and has been rising above the town of Gjirokaster ever since. Already in 1973 it was awarded as a cultural monument. For a small fee of 1 Euro you can visit the Zekate house .

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#10 In the dry Riverbed from Tepelene to Himarë

The drive from Tepelene via Kuç to Himarë was our biggest adventure in Albania and highlight number one during our road trip. And this for several reasons:

Part of the Route was not marked on any Map

The entire route from Tepelene to Himarë is about 55 kilometers long with an off-road part of about 42 kilometers (as of 2018). However, part of the track could not be found on any map. However, we had a good description of the route from the road book of the Hobo Team*. It should lead through a riverbed that is dry in summer. We tried to find out more about this exciting track and looked at the area on Google Earth. There we actually recognized a dry river and with a lot of fantasy we could imagine a route. We saved this route in our GPS and then we started.

Down in the Riverbed our Four Wheel Drive failed

After we found the section from Tepelene to the turnoff to the track to Kuç (there was actually a sign at the turnoff), we went downhill. Not only that the gravel road led us downhill into the river valley. Also with our vehicle technology it went downhill. As soon as we reached the bottom, we noticed that our four-wheel drive had broken down! And in front of us were several kilometres of dried out riverbed with more or less loose gravel and numerous fords! What a fright! But thank god, one of us knew a lot about technology. Till repaired the four-wheel drive provisionally. But from now on we could only switch it on under the car, directly at the transfer case. Suddenly a gear lever next to the driver's seat appears in a completely different light - pure luxury!

Fords, Fords and again Fords - for all who never get enough

The riverbed was not as dry as one would imagine a dry riverbed to be. About halfway through the stretch - our four-wheel drive was now permanently on during the runway drive - it got wet. The first ford was most exciting. Then came another one. And then many more...It was mega fun! All in all there must have been ten fords that we had to cross - no, we were allowed to. On the photos they don't look that spectacular, but believe me, they were. And they were THE highlight of our road trip in Albania!

During the route only one vehicle and two riders came towards us. The first rider greeted us rather timidly. The second rider - a female rider, to be precise - waved cheerfully and turned her thumbs up... perhaps because I was sitting at the steering wheel as a woman. Hard to believe, but for a woman driving a car in the rural areas of Albania not so unusual.

The landscape of the Kurvelesh region is the most beautiful mountainous region of Albania besides the Albanian Alps. The plateau is criss-crossed by mountain ranges and river valleys and is difficult to access. So far, the naturalness of the region has been largely preserved. But new tourist areas are to be developed and it may not be long before the first sections are asphalted.

Tip: the riverbed is a perfect place to stay overnight. There are 1001 nice pitches and you are almost all alonehere. Wildly romantic! As soon as the river bed is followed by an uphill section, the possible pitches for the night become less and less.

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#11 Albania's Coast - a little bit of everything

Albania's coast is long and varied. There are lonely bays and steep cliffs, overpopulated bathing and party beaches, wild river deltas and national parks. There is something for every taste.

On our road trip we only got to know single beach sections in the south of Albania. Because after we came from the lonely inland to the coast, it was simply too crowded for us there. That's high season!

Even though the coast of Albania was no highlight for us during our road trip, I still have a tip for you:

The beach in Gjipe: The beach in Gjipe: the small beach can only be reached via a rough gravel road or by boat. It lies idyllically framed in a canyon. The beach invites you to swim and is also the starting point for hikes up the valley. On the beach itself there is a bar where you can get simple snacks or a drink. There is also a small camping site. If you want to drive the route with your 4x4, you should have a good ground clearance and not be afraid to reverse on a steep slope. We finally decided to park on the big parking lot above the beach. Here we could also stay overnight for a small fee. We reached the beach after a 30 minutes walk.

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#12 Saranda and Butrint

Coastal Town Saranda

The small coastal town of Saranda is located in the very south of Albania and is only a stone's throw away from the Greek island of Corfu. Saranda was developed as a seaside resort from the 1950s onwards and is now visited by about 500,000 guests every year. There is a beach promenade and numerous restaurants and hotels. And it is quite busy in the main season. Many day guests also come by boat from Corfu. Because in Saranda you can not only swim in the Ionian Sea, but also visit one of the most popular highlights in Albania: the approximately 3000 year old ruined city of Butrint.

Ruins of Butrint

Strategically located on a peninsula, it is home to numerous ruins from ancient times. Particularly well preserved is a semi-circular theatre from the 3rd century BC. Since 1992, the ruins of Butrint have been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Directions to get there: The ruins are located about 20 kilometers south of Saranda and are easily accessible by bus or own car. If you arrive early, there is also a parking lot near the entrance. For all others there is another large parking lot about 1.4 kilometers away, which is also a good place to park for the night.

Worth seeing is also the national park that was established around the ruins. The park is especially important for amphibians, reptiles and birds.

By the way, you can also visit Butrint on a guided day tour* from Tirana.

Syri i Kaltër Karst Spring (Blue Eye)

Another attraction near Saranda is the karst spring Syri i Kaltër (Blue Eye). Here ice-cold deep water gushes upwards. Those who are particularly brave dare to jump into the cold water. However, if you prefer a quieter pace, you can enjoy a drink in one of the restaurants or go for a walk. The parking spaces here are also often used as parking spaces for the night. The access to Syri i Kaltër is via a bridge, where you have to pay a small entrance fee.

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#13 Lost Places

Did I tell you that I love Lost Places? I am magically drawn to the morbid charm of abandoned buildings and industrial ruins. And Albania is an absolute paradise in this respect! Many Lost Places are relicts from the communist era. Supported by the socialist planned economy, numerous mines and factories were built during Enver Hoxha's time in power. Many of them are now standing still. We saw an abandoned munitions factory, the Hoxha pyramid in Tirana, an old oil refinery and even oil pumps. But we were not quite sure whether they were still in operation or not. Oil was on the ground around the oil pump and ran over a small trickle along the road. At the edge of the road were rusty oil tanks. They looked abandoned, but some of them were still filled and probably still in use.

Here are a few Lost Places highlights, which we discovered during our road trip in Albania:

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#14 Bunker

Countless bunkers remind us today of the once socialist Albania under Enver Hoxha. Most of them are small mushroom-shaped bunkers, which often stand together in groups of three. They characterize the landscape. Most were built between 1972 and 1984. Their number is estimated at about 200,000. Exactly how many there were, however, is unclear. And how many of them are still left.

After leaving the Warsaw Pact in 1968, Enver Hoxha prepared Albania for the invasion of enemy troops. A place in a bunker was therefore to be created for every Albanian. From here the country was to be defended against the invaders in the partisan fight. The bunker construction swallowed a huge amount of money and concrete at that time and put an enormous burden on the weak economy of the country.

Most of the bunkers were built in the border regions, at the sea or at strategically important points. Three different types of construction are most common:

• Small pillbox bunkers for one person, resembling concrete mushrooms. They were often built in groups of three and were connected by a passageway.
• Small bunkers for four persons
• Larger bunkers for artillery guns

Besides, there's also:

• Submarine Bunker
• Observation stands on the beach
• Large underground command bunkers
• Underground aircraft caverns
• Caverns and ammunition depots

Many bunkers are now overgrown, slopes have fallen or sunken. Some have also been dismantled or found a new use. Mostly however unfortunately as toilet or garbage container. But some of them are used by farmers for example as material storage or stable. In cities bunkers have been converted into cafés, restaurants, museums, shops or even residential buildings. A nice example of this is the Bunk'Art Museum in Tirana.

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#15 Monuments from the Communist Era

In Albania, several hundred monuments, so-called lapidars, still remind us of the communist era. They are mostly vertical, abstract monuments made of concrete. They are often decorated with communist symbols such as the red star. Some have also been supplemented by reliefs or statues. They are considered works of art of Socialist Realism. For me they were one of the highlights of our road trip to Albania.

The lapidars were mostly erected to commemorate martyrs of the Albanian partisan fight in the Second World War. For this purpose, prominent, highly visible or historically significant locations were chosen. You can see many lapidars by the roadside. Because in every town and village the regime built those monuments. This made the communist party omnipresent.

But from the once 800 to 1000 lapidars, today, only approximately 680 are supposed to be preserved. Some of them have been decayed, destroyed, transformed or moved. But some have also been restored and even received a new coat of paint. I consider the lapidars to be a unique cultural asset and therefore I photographed them with enthusiasm. Here you can see a small selection:

Besides the Lapidars, you can also find other monuments in Albania, which were built during the time of the socialist People's Republic. These include bronze statues, larger socialist monuments and martyr cemeteries.

Tip: The Albanian Lapidary Survey Project is dedicated to the inventory and documentation of all remaining lapidars. On their website you can see numerous photos including location information. The catalogue is supplemented by a bilingual e-book (English/Albanian), which you can download for free as a PDF file from Punctum Books, Brooklyn (donations are welcome).

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General Tips for your Roadtrip in Albania

Animals on the Roads

As soon as we had crossed the border, we almost ran over a turtle. We were expecting cows and sheep. But turtles? No way. But they don't seem so rare, because we almost ran over another one later. I would have been inconsolable! So open your eyes and pay attention. And best not to drive in the dark, because then you see the animals even worse. 

Uphill, downhill and around the Bend

The roads in Albania are rarely flat and rarely go straight for a long distance. This applies not only to gravel roads but also to asphalt roads. Some stretches along the coast were so steep downhill that we had to drive in first gear with reduction.

This brought our travel planning a little bit mixed up. Because of the roads we drove much slower. That meant that in the end we spent much more time driving than planned. That wasn't bad now, we could take turns and we enjoyed driving through the landscape. A real road trip!

Pitches for the Night

Albania is a paradise for campers. Because the so-called "wild camping" is allowed and quite normal in Albania. No matter whether with camper or with tent. We were always greeted friendly by passing cars (which can happen even on the remote slopes). Sometimes we were even asked if everything was ok or if we needed help. So you can have a chat even in the most remote places.

The "wild camping" will of course only be accepted as long as all campers follow certain rules. That means:

• Don't leave garbage or any other mess!
• Do not destroy nature with your tires! Respect nature reserves and national parks and stay here on the official parking lots.
• Keep some distance to settlements / houses.
• Be careful with open fire - only at suitable places, or better avoid it.
• Don't park on cultivated land

During our road trip in Albania almost every pitch for the night was a highlight in itself. Here are a few impressions. Where exactly our pitches were, you can see in the map at the very beginning of my article.

Of course there are also camping sites with the usual facilities or pitches on hotel car parks in the cities, such as in Tirana or Saranda. The campsite in Koman was really nice, located directly at the water.

You need camping equipment? Maybe a GPS or new camping chairs? Take a look at Globetrotter*.

Refuelling

We have researched the diesel prices on the Internet beforehand. The fuel was cheaper in Macedonia than in Albania, so we refuelled there. Our 300 liter tank gave us the necessary leeway. But in general the following applies to Albania: There is unleaded petrol, super and diesel. You will probably get the better quality at bigger petrol stations, where you can pay also by card. The petrol station network is quite dense. But if you drive to remote areas, you should check the fueling possibilities and fill up your tank again. Always take into account the fact that you might not be able to drive all the way to the end of an off-road track and have to turn around. The fuel should still be enough for that as well.

Drinking Water

In the Albanian Alps there are numerous natural springs from which you can drink directly. Here we also filled up our water tank again. Alternatively you can fill up your water tank at the petrol stations. Since our motorhome has a built-in water filter, we have been able to drink the water from our tank. However, we preferred not to drink unfiltered tap water.

Shopping

In the cities there are supermarkets as we know them and in the villages there are corner shops as we used to know them. For fruit, vegetables and honey you can also often find stands at the roadside. During our tour in Albania we always filled up our supplies in corner shops or at street stands.

Waste water

We have collected our washing waste water in a mobile canister. For our chemical toilet we also have a typical toilet tank. Both we could dispose of in the sanitary facilities provided on campsites. This also worked when we were no guests and just asked friendly. Whenever there was a café or shop there, we ordered or bought something there.  

Garbage

Many parking lots are unfortunately, unfortunately littered in Albania. Often we went around with the garbage bag and cleaned up. For the garbage disposal there are containers at the roadsides in populated areas. Unfortunately there was no waste separation in summer 2018.

Toll in Albania

Since late summer 2018, Albania has also a toll system in place. So far, however, only for the "Rruga e Kombit", the A1 motorway from the coast to Kosovo. Prices: 2.50 Euro for motorized two-wheelers; 5 Euro for cars; 11 to 17 Euro for motor homes depending on size.

Traffic Rules

In addition to an EU driving licence and the vehicle registration document, you also need the green insurance card. If you are not the owner of the vehicle, you will also need a power of attorney from the owner, a copy of the vehicle registration document and a copy of the owner's passport.

Furthermore applies:

• Obligation to wear seat belts
• Mobile phone ban
• Zero alcohol limit!
• The headlights must be switched on even during the day.
• Speed limits: 40 km/h in town, 80 or 90 km/h depending on signs. 110 km/h on the motorway.

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Roadbooks - Travel Guide - Road Map (sorry, the books here are only in german language)

Available at Amazon

Albanien “Offroad-Guide”: ausgewählte Strecken für Abenteurer von Martina Kaspar

Absolutely indispensable for us was the Albania "Offroad-Guide" from the Hobo-Team. Because here the Hobo-Team presents the most beautiful routes for adventurous offroaders. Included are twenty long tours described and illustrated in detail and eleven detours to smaller destinations worth seeing. There is also information on the difficulty of the route so that you can judge whether the route is suitable for you and your vehicle. With lots of additional information, the Hobo Team makes you want to discover the country.

Available at Amazon

GPS-Offroad Travel Guide Island from Sabine and Burkhard Koch

The off-road travel guide Albania von den Kochs describes 26 off-road routes. For each route a degree of difficulty is given, which makes it easier to make one's own assessment in connection with the vehicle class. The Kochs have given the routes a rating in the form of stars, in which the driving fun, the landscape and the experience value are incorporated. There are also tips and tricks for off-road driving and further information about Albania.

Available at Amazon

Travel Know-How Travel Guide Albania by Meike Gutzweiler

With the Albania travel guide from Reise Know-How you are perfectly prepared for your discovery tour in Albania. In addition to many practical tips, there is just as much background information on the country and its people. The travel guide contains tips for city walks and hikes as well as supplementary city maps and general maps.

Available at Amazon

Albania, Road Map 1:150.000 by Freytag & Berndt

In addition to our GPS and mobile phone maps we had a classic car map made of paper with us. And - despite all modern technical achievements - we really enjoyed using it. And you can draw in the driven route soooooo beautifully by hand! This makes the road trip even more enjoyable!

Have you ever been on a road trip in Albania? How did you like it and what were your highlights? Do you have any questions about my article? If yes, then write me a comment!

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Recommendations for further Reading - more Roadtrips

With Land Rover Series II to Iceland - ABC for an "Offroad"-Trip

Relics from the Soviet Era - Tips for your discovery tour in the Baltic States

Der Beitrag Roadtrip Albanien – 15 Highlights & Tipps und Route erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

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Linnahall in Tallinn, Estland

Linnahall used to be called the "Lenin Palace of Arts and Sports". Because the huge building was erected in 1980 for the Olympic Games in Moscow. Inside the concrete monster also hides a concert hall. However, this has been closed since 2009. On the outside, wide stairs and walkways lead to the roof of the remarkable building. Some parts of the building are even still in use. But nowadays there can be no talk of a palace anymore. Nevertheless, the Linnahall is gladly visited by tourists and just as gladly photographed. Because with its grey concrete facade, the colourful graffiti and the monumental architecture it is an impressive relic of the Soviet Era.

Limestone Quarry in Rummu, Estonia

Marble was mined in the Rummu opencast mine from 1938 to 1991. The stone was then processed into steps and gravel in the Vasalemma lime and marble factory. During these years the inmates of the neighbouring Murru prison were used as workers. With the end of the Soviet era, however, open-cast mining was abandoned. As a result, the pit filled up with water and several factory buildings were flooded. Next to the lake, a photogenic gravel pit also bears witness to those times.

However, with the end of the Soviet era, the open pit mine was abandoned. As a result, the mine filled with water and several factory buildings were flooded in the process. Next to the lake, a photogenic gravel pile also bears witness to those times.

However, the area is officially closed. But also from the opposite shore you have a good view of the ruins.

Watchtowers at Cape Kolka, Latvia

Cape Kolka separates the Gulf of Riga from the Baltic Sea. From here it is not far to the Swedish coast. Therefore, Cape Kolka was a restricted military area during the Soviet era. For this reason there were more watchtowers around Cape Kolka than in other places. And some of them are still standing and remind us of times gone by. One of them stands in the dunes on the beautiful sandy beach off Mazirbe.

Boat Graveyard Mazirbe, Latvia

Have you ever stumbled over boats during a walk in the woods? Here in Mazirbe that can happen to you. Because here the remains of several fishing boats lie in the forest and rot away. On some of them even the names of the boats are still recognizable. Others, however, have only a pile of wood left.

And why are the boats hidden here in the forest? The Soviet border guards feared that people were settling on the Swedish coast. So fishing was banned and the boats were "secured" in the forest. Only with a special licence were individual fishermen allowed to do their work with their boats.

Radio Telescope in Irbene, Latvia

The Radiolelescope R-32 in Irbene is the eighth largest parabolic antenna in the world with a diameter of 32 metres. It was built by the Soviets in 1980 together with two other installations. With these parabolic antennas, the Soviets intercepted Western satellite transmissions.

Today the antenna belongs to the International Radio Astronomy Centre Ventspils (virac) and is used for research. The antenna can even be visited during guided tours. However, you have to book at least three days in advance. You can find more information here.

You can reach the parabolic antenna via a narrow road, 24 kilometres north of Ventspils. The road will also take you past several abandoned residential barracks.

Orvydas Garden, Lithuania

In front of the entrance to Orvydas Garden there is an old Soviet tank. The cannon barrel is directed towards the entrance of the garden. Because Orvydas family was persecuted by the Soviets. The access to the garden was blocked off at that time.

Hidden behind the garden wall lies a paradisiacal idyll. Sculptures, crosses and memorial stones are overgrown with trees and flowers. This magical place was created by the stonemason Orvydas and his son in the 1960s. Because at that time the Soviet head of government Khrushchev banned religious symbols. For this reason the stones and figures were brought here from the Salantai cemetery. Thus they were saved from destruction.

Nuclear Missile Base, Lithuania

In the past, nuclear missiles aimed at Western Europe here. But today, the Cold War Museum here about times past. Times when schoolchildren learned how to behave in case of an attack with nuclear missiles. By means of vividly prepared colorful wall posters. This museum in the former rocket base Plokštinė makes you think. Especially the view into the interior of a rocket shaft I had to process for a while afterwards.

A visit to this museum in this special place should not be missed on your tour of the Baltic States. It is also located in the middle of the Žemaitija National Park. Here you will find many nice places for a break or an overnight stay to process what you have seen.

Further Relics from the Soviet Era in the Baltic States

There are many other relics from the Soviet era in the Baltic States. Unfortunately our road trip in the Baltic States was limited in time and we could not visit all places. But maybe you have some more time and can discover more. There are for example:

• The Hotel Viru in the skyscraper with the KGB spy center in Tallinn
• The coastal town of Sillamäe in Estonia with Stalinist architecture and a former factory for uranium processing
• "The Pension", a top secret Soviet-Era fallout shelter in Ligatne, Latvia
• The village of Visaginas with Soviet housing silos for the workers of the former nuclear power plant Ignalina, Lithuania
• Early in the morning, the The Hill of Crosses in Šiauliai as a symbol of Lithuanian resistance to Soviet rule

You've seen enough Soviet-era relics here in the Baltic States now? Then how about a walk on the moors? Estonia is famous for its raised bogs - here you can read my Article about the Soomaa Bog.

Can you think of any other relics from the Soviet era in the Baltic States? Or do you have a question about my article? I am looking forward to your tips and comments.

Recommendations for further Reading

Chernobyl - Photography against oblivion

Eisenhüttenstadt – Zeitreise in eine sozialistische Planstadt

Der Beitrag Relikte aus der Sowjetzeit – Tipps für eure Tour im Baltikum erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Table of Contents and Quick Navigation

The Kindergarten of Kopachi
Evacuees and Returnees
Tourism in the restricted Zone
Liquidators - the Heroes of Chernobyl
The Village of Prypjat
Prypjat Amusement Park
The Sarcophagus
DUGA-3 Radar Station
Nature comes back

The Kindergarten of Kopachi

The kindergarten belongs to the former village Kopachi. It is located next to the access road to Chernobyl and surrounded by forest. However, we do not see any other buildings. Because the village Kopachi with 1,114 inhabitants at that time no longer exists. It lies within the 30 km exclusion zone that was established around the damaged reactor block after the accident. Within this exclusion zone all wooden houses were torn down for fire protection reasons and buried afterwards. Only two stone houses remained from the village of Kopachi. One of them is the kindergarten.

It's an oppressive feeling here. A mixture of grief and anger is noticeable in my chest. I hold my camera and take some pictures of the lovingly painted paper bunnies and the colourful matryoshkas on the wall. But then I leave the building. Because a large group of visitors from a coach makes its way to the entrance door. I would rather be alone for a while with my impressions.

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Evacuees and Returnees

On 26 April 1986 the reactor accident occurred in Unit 4 of the Chernobyl nuclear power plant. But it was not until 27 April 1986, 36 hours after the accident, that the evacuation of the 50,000 inhabitants of Prypyat began. On 2 May the inhabitants of Chernobyl were evacuated. On 4 May the evacuation of the people from the 30 km zone began. By 5 May, 160,000 people had left their residential areas and more than 70 villages had been abandoned. In memory of these abandoned places, a monument was erected in the city of Chernobyl. It consists of place-name signs that line up along a path like crosses.

A total of 330,000 inhabitants had to be evacuated due to the accident. However, in their new home they were not always welcomed, but were sometimes discriminated against as radioactively contaminated.

However, some of the resettled people have returned to their homeland. Some even returned a year after the disaster. Since then they have been living without electricity and running water in the hostile area, some for about 30 years. However, it is unknown how many people live in the restricted area. Estimates are based on about 200 people. Only adults with a minimum age of 50 years are allowed to return officially.

In addition to the returnees who live permanently in the restricted zone, there are about 3,000 people who work in the restricted zone. Most of them work in two-week shifts. Many of them live in the town of Slavutych, 50 km away, which was rebuilt to replace Prypyat after the disaster. In the meantime, about 25,000 people live in the new town, the average age is 30 years. The average income is about twice as high as in the rest of the country, so the city is attractive for many young people.

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Tourism in the restricted Zone

Since July 2011, the exclusion zone around the damaged reactor block has been open to visitors. The number of visitors has grown continuously since then. In 2018 there were 70,000 visitors. For 2019, 90,000 visitors are expected. Various agencies offer tours into the restricted zone. Some of them even include a visit to the Babuschkas, the older ladies who have returned home.

In the meantime there is also a hostel and several restaurants in Chernobyl. At the checkpoint, which regulates the access to the restricted area, there is a wide selection of souvenirs to buy. Postcards, books, refrigerator magnets and T-shirts are on sale. I feel a bit like in the Mecca of sensational and disaster tourism.

The reasons why tens of thousands of people visit the place every year are certainly very different. Some have a serious interest in the story, others just an interest in tasteless photos for Instagram. But I very much hope that this place will make every visitor think. Just out of respect for the victims and the bereaved.

There are already ideas to register the city for inclusion in the UNESCO World Heritage List. The documentary heritage related to the accident was already listed in 2017. The documents kept in the State Archives of Ukraine should help to understand the causes of the disaster and its global consequences. During the Soviet era, many documents were subject to secrecy. The release of these documents in the independent Ukraine therefore every year expands the basis for research into the nuclear accident.

But Chernobyl is more than just a Mecca of sensational and disaster tourism. In recent years it has become a symbol of the anti-nuclear movement. It is a memorial to the dangers of nuclear power and the greatest man-made catastrophe ever. A disaster that we must not forget.

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Liquidators - the Heroes of Chernobyl

In any case, a visit to the restricted zone leads to strong emotions. These include sadness and compassion for the many victims. We also pay tribute to the heroes, the liquidators, who secured and cleaned up the reactor after the accident. But anger, in particular, is one of the emotions that arise. Anger at the system, which left the victims in the dark and exposed them to radiation for longer than necessary. Because only very few people were aware of the events and dangers at the time.

It remains unclear how many liquidators risked their lives to save other human lives after the reactor disaster. Various sources report between 500,000 and 800,000 people. People who at some point knew that they would suffer physical damage or even risk death. But still they continued their work. Carefully and conscientiously. With all the means at their disposal. Protected by homemade suits and lead plates tied to their backs, they fought an invisible enemy.

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The Village of Prypjat

I get out of the minibus and notice immediately that the wind has refreshed. A gust whirls up dust from the gravel road. I hold my scarf in front of my face, cover my mouth and nose and breathe carefully. Just don't inhale any dust. Because the biggest radiation exposure comes from the inside. From tiny particles, which are taken up over the food or breathing air. For this reason, eating and drinking outdoors within the restricted zone is not permitted.

Prypjat is about 4 kilometres away from the damaged reactor block. In 1986, before the catastrophe, the city had 50,000 inhabitants. The average age was about 26 years. There were 15,500 children living in the city. Around noon on 27 April, the population was finally asked to prepare for a three-day absence. The inhabitants were left in the belief that they would be able to return soon after their evacuation. The remaining furniture and furnishings now tell their stories.

However, due to the danger of collapse, it was no longer possible to enter the buildings during my Easter 2019 tour.

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Prypjat Amusement Park

The Prypjat amusement park is one of the most famous motifs from the restricted zone. The big Ferris wheel is one of the most impressive memorials for the nuclear catastrophe. The park was built for the May 1, 1986 celebrations. One day after the Chernobyl disaster, the park was opened to the public. It was supposed to provide distraction. But after only a few hours the evacuation of the city began.

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The Sarcophagus

Um den Reaktorblock 4 wurde nach der Havarie schließlich eine Schutzhülle aus Stahl und Beton errichtet. Nach 200 Tagen Bauzeit war sie dann fertig und bot einen ersten Schutz gegen die Strahlung. Der alte “Sarkophag” hat jedoch über die Jahre Risse bekommen und drohte einzustürzen. Daher wurde ein neuer Sarkophag in ca. 300 m Abstand zum Reaktor errichtet. Nach fünf Jahren Bauzeit wurde er dann im Jahr 2016 auf Schienen Stück für Stück über die alte Hülle geschoben. Es ist das größte bewegliche Bauwerk der Welt und ist 30.000 Tonnen schwer. Nun soll es die nächsten 100 Jahre lang den Austritt radioaktiver Stoffe verhindern.

Today, next to the power station, a monument commemorates the victims of Chernobyl.

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DUGA-3 Radar Station

A narrow, kilometre-long concrete slab road leads us through a dense coniferous forest directly to an abandoned military area. Above the treetops we can spot the huge antennas of the DUGA-3 radar station. It is a very impressive building that consists of a larger and a smaller antenna. The bigger one is about 450 meters long and about 150 meters high, the smaller one is only about 250 meters wide and 80 meters high. The over-horizon radar used here is also called "Woodpecker", because the sounds produced are reminiscent of the knocking of a woodpecker. DUGA-3 was part of the Soviet missile defence system. It was intended to detect the launch of missiles in Europe and America. The station is said to have had a range of over 10,000 km. After the reactor disaster, however, the station had to be abandoned and technical details and photos were made public.

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Nature comes back

But nature is slowly but unstoppably recovering the area around the damaged reactor. Thus the abandoned ghost town becomes a new habitat. Birches and willows now overgrow the open spaces. Moose and wild boars, deer and wolves populate the region. The photo traps have even documented a brown bear. In order to increase the diversity of species, Przewalski horses have been settled here, which have been developing steadily for several years. We were lucky and saw a herd of them.

Have you ever been to Chernobyl yourself? What were your impressions? Do you have any questions about my article or further suggestions? If so, please write me a comment!

Der Beitrag Tschernobyl – Fotografieren gegen das Vergessen erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Creative for peace with Street Art

Meanwhile, Kiev counts about 160 street art works by 35 artists. Many of the so-called Murals were created in cooperation with ArtUnitedUs. Since the year of Euromaidan 2014, the street art project supports local and international artists. It draws public attention to themes such as war, aggression and violence and wants to carry messages of peace to the world with the murals. Street Art will give Kiev a new face and a new identity. It is also a symbol of the process of detachment from the Soviet era.

Walking Tour - Street Art in Kiev

A Street Art Tour invites you to discover the less touristy districts of Kiev, side streets and backyards. Various agencies offer guided tours of a number of selected works of art. However, if you prefer to go on your own, you can use the map of Kyivmural put together your own tour. You can also combine your Street Art Tour with visits to other sights or museums in Kiev. Furthermore the website of streetartcities also offers a map with the exact location of the murals. You will also find additional information about each artwork.

But if you want to see all the paintings you have to bring time. Because the works are spread all over the city. Below I have compiled some of the more centrally located street art works that I was able to see in Kiev at Easter 2019.

Herald of Life by Alexander Brytsev (November 2015)

Address: Reitarska Street 9b

To find the "Crows" you have to go through a grey metal door into the backyard first. On the left you will see the painting, on the right you will find an aviary. Three crows have been living in this aviary for 20 years now. The brick wall opposite the aviary is completely covered with dark blue crows surrounding a single white bird. It is a symbol of good news and the birth of new life.

From Russia with love by MTO (2018)

Address: Mechnikova Street 18

The artwork was painted on an empty wall, all windows, all tiles are painted. The heart is a digital bomb sent from Moscow to Kiev. The mural stands for the hacker attack on Ukraine's power supply in recent years, for which Russian hackers are held responsible. Other interpretations, however, see the heart as an image for Ukraine, whose right side - eastern Ukraine - is torn apart by explosions.

Changing of the climate by Fintan Magee (2015)

Address: Vulitsya Sergіya Gusovskogo 10/8

In his work, Fintan Magee often deals with environmental issues. He often uses personal stories to talk about broader issues such as climate change and the migration crisis.

Carousel of cars by M-City (December 2015)

Address: Striletska Street 20B

The artist M-City mostly uses industrial-mechanical motifs in his paintings and "Carousel" is one of them: the mechanical carousel of cars.

Lesya Ukrainka by Guido van Helten (July 2015)

Address: Striletska Street 28

Lesya Ukrainka (1871-1913) was a Ukrainian writer and also an active political and feminist activist. Her poem "Lily of the Valley" inspired the artist to create this 7-storey mural. The young woman looks to the horizon and is framed by flowers in the lower part of the painting.

Saint Yuri by AEC Interesni Kazki (UKR) (October 2014)

Address: Velyka Zhytomyrska Street 38

The painting was created under the influence of events such as the annexation of the Crimea and the war in Donbas. The double-headed snake represents a nation divided into two halves by Russia: On one side the Eastern bloc, on the other the Western NATO member states.

Yaroslav the Wise by Dmitry Fatum (November 2015)

Address: Striletska Street 6

In this colourful street art painting, the Ukrainian artist portrayed Prince Yaroslav the Wise from Kiev before his death, when he handed over a ball to his son Izyaslav. The ball is a symbol of power and strength.

Upside Down Girl by Fintan Magee (July 2015)

Address: Striletska Street 12

The picture is dedicated to the Ukrainian gymnast Anna Rizatdinova. She was born in Crimea and won a bronze medal at the Olympic Games in Rio de Janeiro. She is also a world champion in the practice with tires and a multiple prize winner of the World and European Championships.

Fintan Magee showed Anna at the moment of a flip. The artist commented on her picture: "Every woman can achieve everything she dreams of".

Time of Changes by Waone (November 2014)

Address: Striletska Street 6

A wall full of symbolism and mythology. If you look at this large, detailed mural, you will notice the six-armed Cossack. Then the putin-like snake that winds its way around the earth. In the background you can see a marching monkey with a grenade and a poster with the inscription "To Kiev". Furthermore, tires are on fire. What does the author describe? Is it an allegory of the fight between good and evil?

The man by Aryz (2018)

Address: Velyka Zhytomyrska Street 6a

The Spanish artist represented a person who courageously and proudly holds something like a flag, but a viewer cannot see the color, only the flagpole.

Swans of Tara's Arm (December 2016)

Address: Heorhiivskyi Street 9

Taras expresses his concept of leadership in his work of art. He shows a flock of birds following their leader during a long-distance flight. He also chose the colours of the picture according to the colours of the sky.

The Enterpeneur by INO (2016)

Address: Mechnikova Street, 18a

The picture shows a man reaching for a frighteningly large hand. A closer look reveals that the artist has created a faceless businessman holding the hand of a working class.

The boy and the sea by Rustam Qbic (2018)

Address: Moskovskaya Street 36

This is a painting about a boy sitting on the beach during sunset. He dreams of faraway lands beyond the seas and oceans.

The Black Sea by Jake Aikman (August 2017)

Address: Bulvarno Kudriavaska Street 35

Jake Aikman's works are characterized by the mystery and ambiguity of an isolated moment. Fascinating seascapes that suggest something hidden in the depths of the ocean.

Self-Made Man by Alexander Grebenyuk (October 2015)

Address: Olesia Honchara Street 24a

"As a picture I used the man who typed and got so absorbed in this process and her idea that he began to transform into what he does," says artist Alexander Grebenyuk. The Self-Made Man by Alexander Grebenyuk is dedicated to journalism.

Rise Up in the Dirt by bkfoxx (2017)

Address: Moskovskaya Street 30

The painting is a beautiful participant in a grey concrete landscape. Even if life gives you the cold shoulder, even if the world lies in ruins - hope remains. Like a stubborn, simple blade of grass, it breaks through the encrustations of resignation.

Revival by Alexey Kislovsky and Julien Mullan (2017)

Address: Borychiv Tik Street 33/6

The painting depicts the rebirth of Ukraine after the revolution in 2014. The girl is wearing a military jacket as worn by the Euromaidan Protestants. Therefore it symbolizes the new spirit of Ukraine. The child in her hand stands for the restored hope. "Revival" is also the most famous of all street art paintings in Kiev.

Red Bicycle by Emmanuel Jarus (May 2016)

Address: Viacheslava Lypynskoho Street 13

The wall painting of a man wearing a baseball cap, a white T-shirt and a red bicycle is part of a collection of 200 works painted over two years as part of the Art United Us Festival. It is a story about the revival of the 100 year old cycle path in the city.

Portrait of Serhiy Nigoyan by Vhils (Summer 2015)

Address: Mykhailivska Street 22

The portrait shows Euromaidan activist Serhiy Nigoyan who was shot dead in 2014 during Hrushevskoho Street demonstrations. He was the first victim of the anti-government demonstrations. Soon he became the symbol of the Ukrainian Revolution.

A peculiarity is that this work of art is not painted on the wall like the others. The portrait is carved directly into the exposed bricks and plaster.

People Jumble by Zbiok (May 2011)

Address: Olesia Honchara Street 9

This somewhat cubistic-looking painting is one of the first street art works that appeared in Kiev in 2011. Slavomir Tchaikovsky, who works under the pseudonym Zbiok, uses it to depict the complex relationships between people.

Multiplex - About movie by Egle Zvirblyte (2018)

Address: Mykhailivska Street 7

Egle Zvirblyte was commissioned by the Multiplex Cinemas chain to decorate a billboard in the heart of Kiev with street art. It could not be direct advertising, but had to reflect the spirit of the multiplex cinemas.

Children by Konstantin Strikutsky (December 2010)

Address: Olesia Honchara Street 21

This mural was already created in 2010 and is thus one of the very early works. It is not a mural in the true sense of the word. Instead, the wall of the house is covered with a mosaic.

Children Playing by Konstantin Skrytutskyi (December 2015)

Address: Olesia Honchara Street 21

This work of art is not a painting but a mosaic. The idea behind it is that everyone should take responsibility for their city. In the dark you can read two psalms and the Ten Commandments.

Bright Abstract Design by Guillaume Albi (Spring 2015)

Address: Observatorna Street 3

Guillaume Alby aka Remed works on the combination of mathematics and calligraphy and strives for harmonious purity, combined with the flow and energy of the line. He searches for truth through simplicity and finds a universal language of form and colour.

Have you ever been to Kiev and seen the great street art here? Which works did you like best? Do you have any questions or further tips? If so, then write me a comment!

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love street art as much as I do? Then take a look at Street-Art in La Paz .

Are you planning a trip to Ukraine right now? Then you might also be interested in my article about Chernobyl - Photography against oblivion.

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Content

Osum Canyon
Thermal Springs Banjat e Benjës
River Hike in Lengarica Canyon Osum Canyon

Here you can read my main article about our Road Trip Albania - 15 Highlights & Tips and Route.

Osum Canyon

The river Osum flows through several canyons with rock faces up to 80 metres high over a length of about 14 kilometres. With its yellow-grey cliffs and rugged rock formations it forms a breathtaking landscape.

The town of Çorovoda is the starting point for exploring the canyon. Directly behind Çorovoda the road starts and leads up the river on the left side of the Osum. You drive all the time directly at the edge of the gorge and there are many spectacular views.

About nine kilometres after Çorovoda, it is also worth stopping at a narrow bridge over the canyon. From here you have a great view into the canyon and it is also a perfect place for a break or the night (40°27'17.5″N 20°15'57.4″E). You can also continue up the gravel road behind the bridge. At the second bend you will reach a small river. In front of the concrete bridge there is a nice parking place next to the river (40°27'39.4″N 20°15'44.4″E). Here you also have water for cooking and washing.

After about 13 kilometres you will come to Lapanj. Up to here the road was asphalted. Now a bridge leads to the other side of the Osum and it continues on gravel roads. The road leaves the river and winds its way up the mountain flanks. A few settlements are scattered on the fertile plateaus. About halfway you reach an idyllically situated camping site. The doughnuts with the homemade honey and yoghurt offered here are absolutely recommendable.

After a total of 26 kilometres of gravel road you will reach the SH75 road and after another 21 kilometres the sulphur springs of Benje.

The road is easy to drive, but there are steep climbs and our tires often went crazy on the gravel. Four-wheel drive is an advantage. The road is narrow, but it is usually possible to avoid the few oncoming vehicles.

Ideas for your next Road Trip

Are you looking for ideas and inspiration for your next road trip or for your camping stove? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books at Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you and you do me a huge favor.

Thermal Springs Banjat e Benjës

The warm thermal springs near Benje are the most water-rich thermal springs in Albania. The sulphurous water, warm up to 30°C, is contained in four natural stone pools of different sizes in the front section of the Lengarica Canyon. On weekends many Albanians from nearby towns come here to relax in nature. The water is said to have healing effects on skin, stomach and circulation diseases as well as rheumatism.

There are also guided day trips to the Osum Gorge from Berat.

The entrance fee to the thermal springs and the stream is 100 Lek per person. The use of the car park is included.

Also the attached, very simple camping site invites you to stay. However, it was a bit too crowded for us at the thermal springs. Therefore we walked further upstream into the Lengarica Canyon.

Near the thermal springs there is also a nice place for the night with a view (40°14'40.0″N 20°26'03.2″E). You don't drive left to the parking lot of the sulphur springs but straight ahead. The road rises and winds up the mountains. On the left side there is a nice parking place.

You need camping equipment? Maybe a GPS or new camping chairs? Take a look at Globetrotter*.

River Hike in Lengarica Canyon Osum Canyon

The Lengarica Gorge is a narrow gorge, about four kilometres long and up to 100 metres deep. At its narrowest point, it is only about three metres wide. From the thermal springs you can walk about 2.5 kilometres upstream through the canyon during the summer months at low tide.

Right at the beginning you pass one of the most beautiful stone bridges from the Ottoman times - the Ura e Kadiut. The bridge is a great photo motif in any case. While we walk partly on the shore and partly through the water, warm and cold water alternate again and again. The river bed is still relatively wide. That's why many bathers have settled comfortably on the shallow banks.

After approximately 300 metres upstream, the walls of the gorge become higher and the watercourse narrower and narrower, until finally there is no bank at all anymore. The gorge is breathtakingly narrow here, rock washes and grottos are to the left and right of the stream. In some of the caves there are even said to be prehistoric murals. We wade through the river, partly on sand and partly on stone. Bathing shoes are of great advantage here, as the rocks are damn slippery and several times I almost involuntarily went for a swim. After a right turn the canyon widens again. Here there are many nice quiet places for a break or a bath. The water here is much colder and a pleasant refreshment. After a total of about 2.5 kilometres you finally reach the second bridge from the Ottoman period - the Ura e Dashit.

Book Recommendations for Albania

Do you want to know where the journey is going? Then I can recommend this travel guides* to you.

Have you ever been on a road trip in Albania? How did you like it and what were your highlights? Do you have any questions about my article? If yes, then write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

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Recommendations for further Reading - more Roadtrips

With Land Rover Series II to Iceland - ABC for an "Offroad"-Trip

Relics from the Soviet Era - Tips for your discovery tour in the Baltic States

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Content

The Komani Lake in Albania
By Ferry from Koman to Fierza
The Ferry Fleet from the Koman Lake
What is there to see and do?
Tips for your Roadtrip - with the Ferry across the Koman Lake

Here you can read my main article about our Road Trip Albania - 15 Highlights & Tips and Route.

The Komani Lake in Albania

The Koman Lake is a reservoir that dams the Drin River in northern Albania. It is also fed by the rivers Valbona and Shala. In deep gorges, the reservoir stretches for 34 kilometres through the Albanian Alps. The valley is no wider than 400 metres and the mountains rise several hundred metres. At its narrowest point, the Koman reservoir is only 50 meters wide.

The associated dam is located just behind Koman and was built between 1979 and 1988 as part of a major energy production project. The project was partly realised with the support of the Chinese. The dam measures an impressive 115 metres and dams the lake to an area of twelve square kilometres. The reservoir is up to 96 metres deep and holds up to 430 million cubic metres of water.

The hydropower plant operates four turbines that supply 600 MW of electricity. This made it the largest hydroelectric power station in Southeast Europe at the time. However, due to water shortages, electricity production has had to be reduced several times in recent years. Nevertheless, most of the Albanian electricity is still produced from the reservoir.

You are traveling in Albania without a car? Then maybe the guided day tour to Koman Reservoir from Tiranais interesting for you.

By Ferry from Koman to Fierza

A ferry ride across the Komani Lake is the most beautiful way to get from the town of Skodra to the Valbona Valley. For us it was the second stage of our road trip in Albania. During the ferry trip you can experience the Albanian mountains from the water in a very relaxed way.

Already the approach from Skodra to Koman via the mountain road SH 25 is a highlight and offers again and again beautiful views of the Drin. The road is paved, but in bad condition, so you better plan a little more time for the 30 kilometers from the village Vau-Deja to Koman. Along the route there is always the possibility for a stopover and a cooling down in the water. And soon numerous masts for high-voltage power lines will indicate that a lot of electricity is produced here at the reservoirs.

The Ferry Fleet from the Koman Lake

In summer 2018 there were two ferry operators: Komani Lake Ferry operates two smaller ferries Berisha and Dragobia. In July 2018 we had pre-booked tickets for the crossing with our camper online. But when we arrived the evening before we found out that our ferry was taken out of service because of safety problems. The money was given back via Paypal and we could even buy tickets for the following day on a bigger ferry. This was from Alpin and could transport about 60 vehicles.

On board the Alpin there are drinks and snacks, on the upper deck you can sit down and enjoy the view. Albanian music sounds from a loudspeaker and many accompanying Albanians dance to it. It is a pleasant, relaxed atmosphere and you can make nice contacts.

Prices (2018): Komani Lake Ferry charges 6 Euro per square meter. For our camper this was 60 Euro plus 6 Euro per person.
On the ferry Alpin the tickets for the camper with driver cost between 54 and 77 Euro and 8 Euro per additional person.

Departure times (2018): From Koman the ferries of Komani Lake Ferry depart daily at 9 am. The Alpin ferry departs daily at 12 noon.

In addition to the ferries, there are also excursion boats for round trips on the reservoir. Smaller boats also bring people and goods to the remote villages in the mountains, which can only be reached by water.

Boarding: The road to the ferry terminal is closed until all vehicles have left the ferry. Meanwhile, all vehicles wishing to board the ferry are collected at the bottom of the large parking lot in front of the barrier. On the forecourt in front of the pier, the vehicle must then be turned around and driven backwards onto the ferry. Several experienced guides will help.

What is there to see and do?

• One of the most beautiful river trips in breathtaking scenery through the rocky gorges of the Drin
• Isolated villages
• Continuing into the Valbona Valley: great hiking opportunities on well-marked trails in the Albanian Alps, cave visits and even more secluded villages.

But one thing clouds the sky over paradise and makes clouds come up. Clouds drifting on the water in rainbow colours. Blue plastic bottles, red chip bags or yellow plastic of chocolate bars - just to name a few. Everywhere there, if the current is somewhat calmer, the sins of consumer society accumulate. And they are becoming more and more day by day. Garbage left behind by the visitors and produced by the villages situated on the shore. Meanwhile even garbage boats are supposed to try to fight the plastic garbage. But apparently they don't follow. I strongly hope for the lake that tourism and environmental protection will tackle the problem of plastic waste together in the future and that they will work for a regulated waste disposal from the villages.

Tips for your Roadtrip - with the Ferry across the Koman Lake

Directions to get there: From Skodra via Vau Deja it is about 57 kilometres. By the way: You don't necessarily need your own car to get from Skodra to Valbona. Komani Lake Ferry Berisha offers a pick up service from Tirana, Shkodra and Valbona.

Refuelling: The last filling station is in Vau Deja, about 33 kilometres before Koman.

Drinking Water: You can fill your water tanks for washing and cooking at the gas station in Vau Deja. But I wouldn't drink the water.

Pitches for the Night: At the bridge shortly before Koman there is a small simple camping site, directly at the water. From the street the campsite doesn't look very inviting, but down by the water it is very quiet. There is even a small bar.
To get to the ferry dock, you have to cross a narrow, single-lane tunnel. Before you enter the tunnel there are parking places on the right where you can stand overnight. Because of the lighting they are a bit bright and unromantic.
Down at the jetty itself it is very narrow and only small campers are allowed. In the morning the vehicles must be driven away here before 9 o'clock. Because as soon as the ferry from Fierza arrives here, every square meter of space is needed.

You need camping equipment? Maybe a GPS or new camping chairs? Take a look at Globetrotter*.

Pitches in Valbona: In Valbona you will find free pitches at the end of the asphalted road next to the dry riverbed. If your camper has all-wheel drive, you can also drive in the dry riverbed (use existing lanes) and find a place for the night there.

Book Recommendations for Albania

Do you want to know where the journey is going? Then I can recommend this travel guides* to you.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Have you ever been on a road trip in Albania? How did you like it and what were your highlights? Do you have any questions about my article? If yes, then write me a comment!

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Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love road trips as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about a Road trip with Lada Niva and roof tent in Georgia or about a Road Trip with Land Rover Series II to Iceland.

Der Beitrag Roadtrip Albanien – Mit der Fähre über den Komanstausee erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

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About Lake Ohrid in Macedonia

The age of Lake Ohrid is estimated at two to five million years. This makes it one of the oldest lakes in the world. Here, animal and plant species have developed that cannot be found anywhere else. Lake Ohrid is also one of the most species-rich lakes in the world. Of these, 200 species are endemic, such as the Ohrid trout. Unfortunately, it is now threatened by overfishing. However, many fish species that are typical of European waters are missing. Among other things, you won't see any real perch, pike and three-spiny sticklebacks.

Lake Ohrid is an important nature reserve and protected as a UNESCO biosphere reserve. The lake and the old town of Ohrid are also listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The shores of the lake are among the oldest settlement areas in Europe. The town of Ohrid was the centre of Christianity in the Middle Ages and is regarded as the birthplace of the Cyrillic alphabet. In addition to fishing, tourism is an important source of income.

Lake Ohrid lies partly in Macedonia and partly in Albania. The deep blue lake is framed by an impressive mountain scenery with peaks of up to 2200 metres. The lake has no major tributaries. Instead, it is fed by spring streams and springs, some of which are below the surface. For this reason its water is very clear and the visibility under water is surprisingly good. The river Schwarzer Drin springs from Lake Ohrid and flows towards the Adriatic Sea.

Facts about the Lake Ohrid

• Altitude above sea level: 695 m
• Surface area: 349-362.6 km²
• Length: 30,4 km
• Width:14,8 km
• Average depth: 115 m
• Maximum depth: 288 m
• Catchment area: 1414 km²

Bronze Age Pile Dwellings in the Bay of Bones

The Bay of Bones is located on the northeastern shore of Lake Ohrid. A diver found animal bones and prehistoric artefacts here in 1995. During subsequent archaeological investigations from 1997 to 2005, remains of 6000 wooden piles were discovered. They belonged to a prehistoric pile-dwelling settlement from the Late Bronze Age and Early Iron Age, i.e. from 1200 BC to 700 AD. In order to have protection from wild animals and hostile tribes, the settlers of that time built their huts on piles in the lake. The settlement had an area of about 8500 square meters and was therefore somewhat larger than a football field.

Only wooden stumps are left of this prehistoric pile-dwelling settlement today. Instead, a settlement was rebuilt on the same site between 2007 and 2008. A total of 24 simple huts made of wood, clay and reed now stand on a wooden platform supported by 6000 wooden posts. The platform is connected to the shore by a narrow wooden bridge.

Early in the morning, the museum complex in the Bay of Bones includes a pile-dwelling settlement, a permanent exhibition of prehistoric artefacts and a Roman fort from the 3rd century AD.

Reading Tip:
Are you up for more diving in the Balkans? Then check out my article about the Submarine Bunker in Montenegro. .

Highlights under water

• diving through the wooden piles of the reconstructed pile-dwelling settlement
• artifacts from the Bronze Age
• great visibility
• abundance of fish, including endemic species
• freshwater snakes and snakeskins
• rock walls
• underwater springs

Diving in Lake Ohrid under Bronze Age Lake Dwellings

Diving between the wooden piles of the pile-dwelling settlement and the search for relics from the Bronze Age are a very special underwater experience.

The distance between the piles is large enough for you to dive through them comfortably. The water depth is just 2 to 5 meters. Diving in this labyrinth of piles alone is an exciting experience. When the sun is shining, you can also see great light-shadow games under water. You'll also be able to watch a lot of fish under the pile dwellings. Because here, in the shadow of the platform, they like to gather. Besides the new wooden posts of the reconstructed settlement, you can also see the remains of the original posts.

Your guide will also be able to show you other relics. For example, fragments of ceramic vessels and plates, buttons, stone tools and animal bones.

When we were diving in Ohrid Lake in the summer of 2018, a group of underwater archaeologists was here for explorations shortly before. So we could still see their stakeouts at the bottom of the water.

But to explore all this you need a guide. Otherwise you would miss most of it. The local dive center Amphora Diving provided us with a guide and rental equipment. Amphora Diving has its base within the museum complex in the Bay of Bones. If you say at the ticket counter that you want to go diving, you don't have to pay admission. We requested our dives about two weeks in advance by e-mail and registered.

The water temperature was between 24-15°C during our dives to 20 meters depth in July. With a 7-mm neoprene suit with gloves and hood it was pleasant with the temperatures.

Book recommendations for Macedonia

Do you want to know where the journey is going? Then I can recommend this travel guides* to you.

You can order the travel guides with a click on the pictures at Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission and you help me to continue to fill Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you and you do me a huge favor.

Have you ever been diving in the Ohrid Sea in Macedonia yourself? How did you like it? Do you have any questions about my article or further suggestions? If so, please write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

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