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Hiking in the Schönower Heide

You can discover the Schönower Heide on two different circular trails: on the 1.6 kilometer long Heidepfad or on the longer 5 kilometer long Wildwanderweg.The latter leads once around the fenced grazing area. There are numerous information boards along both paths that provide information about the historical development of the area, the shape of the landscape, and typical plants and animals of the Schönow Heath. In some places you can even discover evidence of the former military use, such as remains of bunkers, old tires, metal pipes or a rusty traffic sign.

Since this is a former military training area, off the trails still lie dangerous ordnance. Therefore, leaving the paths is prohibited. However, there are several trails that lead across the heath landscape, which is surrounded by the heath path. Here you can see the sand dune landscape particularly well.

At a Glance

Route: Wildwanderweg 5.0 km; Heidepfad 1.6 km
Can be combined with: Hobrechtsfelder Rieselfelder
Size of the nature reserve: about 533 ha
Highlights: Wildlife watching, heath blossoms, inland dunes
Facilities: two barrier-free lookout points, two picnic areas, several wooden benches, information boards and heath quiz
Best time: worthwhile all year round; best during the heath blossom (mid-August to mid-September)

TIP: You don't want to walk everything? Then you can also ride your bike on the gravel paths.

Viewpoints

From two small, filled-in mountains, the view opens up over the dry grassland and broom heath areas of the fenced-in nature reserve. The lookouts are both barrier-free and also offer a shelter with seating. You will reach the first lookout after only a few minutes of walking on the Heidepfad. Not far from this one is a watering hole, and there are also food troughs and salt licks set up for the animals. The chances of wildlife sightings are therefore particularly good here. If you walk the wildlife trail, then you should not miss this lookout mountain in any case and hike the bow with. The second lookout mountain is located on the Wildwanderweg.

TIP: When from mid-August to mid-September the flowering heather becomes a dense purple carpet, a visit is particularly worthwhile.

Emergence of a special Habitat

Originally, the landscape of Schönower Heide was characterized by mixed deciduous forests. At that time, the forests were used for timber production and as forest pasture. As a result of this use, a vegetation rich in mosses and lichens developed over time. Later reforestation measures in the 19th century finally resulted in an extensive pine forest area around Schönow.

At the end of the 19th / beginning of the 20th century, Berlin purchased land for the establishment of a city estate and for the creation of trickle fields. The purchased land included parts of the Schönower Heide, areas of which were soon used as a military training area. First it was used by the troops of the imperial army, then by the Reichswehr and finally, in GDR times, by the Soviet armed forces. At this time, another 125 hectares of forest were cleared and buildings, shelters and paths were constructed. The use of heavy combat vehicles as well as frequent fires kept the area free of overgrowth and promoted the formation of today's heath landscape.

After the German reunification, the area was no longer used as a military training area. A development of the area is problematic due to the still existing explosive ordnance contamination. In addition, it is a biotope worthy of protection, albeit man-made. In 2000, Schönower Heide was designated as a nature reserve and FFH area. Buildings were built back and paths for visitors were created. Various measures are intended to ensure the preservation of the heath areas and this very special habitat. The most important measure is the grazing by wild animals. For this purpose, fallow deer, mouflon and red deer were released in 2009 in a fenced area of about 140 hectares.

Wildlife Grazing in Schönower Heide

The open and dry landscape of the Schönower Heide is home to numerous rare species. However, if nature were left to its natural course, the heath landscape would quickly become overgrown and a forest would develop again. Many animals and plants that specialize in the dryness would thus lose their habitat.

Grazing with wild animals is intended to preserve the heath landscape. By eating, trodding and sweeping with their antlers, fallow deer, mouflon and red deer keep the landscape open. The animals were introduced here in the summer of 2009 and live year-round in a fenced-in area of about 140 hectares. This is a very close-to-nature and also favorable form of management. Mechanical methods, such as mowing, bush clearing or even burning off vegetation, can therefore be largely dispensed with. 

The "University for Sustainable Development Eberswalde" and the "Leibniz Institute for Zoo and Wildlife Research Berlin" accompany the grazing project scientifically.

TIP: A trip to Schönower Heide is especially beautiful, if you can also see animals. It's best to take binoculars with you, such as the handy and even waterproof Zeiss Terra ED 8×42**.

Fauna and Flora

On the area of the Schönower Heide grow broom heath, sandy meadows as well as pioneer woods like birch, pine, juniper and quaking aspen. In addition to sandy areas with silver grass and reindeer lichen, there are open inland dunes and, in the northeast, a depression overgrown with tall shrubs and grass. Typical species also include the sharp wall-pepper and the sand-strawflower.

Many heat-loving animal species live in the dry site of Schönower Heide, such as the sand lizard, butterflies, sand beetles, wild bees or grasshoppers. So far, 61 bird species have been recorded here. Species such as the nightjar, the woodcock, the great grey shrike or the hoopoe are particularly noteworthy. In spring and summer the song of the lark can be heard almost everywhere in the area. And with a little luck, you may also be able to make out the distinctive "whup-whup" of the hoopoe.

TIP: The hoopoe flies most often in the evening hours. Then you have a good chance to see one on the Schönower Heide.

TIP: Have you ever seen a nightjar ? There are some living here, in the nature reserve Schönower Heide. However, since they are perfectly camouflaged, they are hard to spot. But maybe you can hear them in the evening hours in spring. I've been to the lookout twice in the dark and could hear their buzzing song clearly both times.

How to get there

The nature reserve Schönower Heide is located north of Berlin, just beyond the city limits. If you arrive by car, you can park on a large parking lot on the left and right side of the Schönwalder Chaussee (L30) between Schönow and Schönwalde. Here you will also find the large entrance portal with hiking map and site plan.

The best way to get there by public transport is to take the S-Bahn to Zepernick. From here you can take the bus line 900 direction Bernau to the station Zepernicker Straße. From there it is about 700 meters to the entrance of the Schönower Heide. Bus 900 leaves every hour on the weekend. If you have missed the bus, then it would be about 2.6 kilometers on foot to the entrance.

Book Recommendations for Animal Lovers

You want to know which animal you see? Then I can recommend the following books. You can order them with a click on the picture at Amazon. If you order a book via one of these affiliate links, I will even get a small commission and you will help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting reports and tips. The article will not be more expensive for you.

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More Nature Trips around Berlin

You want to discover even more nature? How about a Trip to the Döberitzer Heide near Berlin or a Walk along the Greenwichpromenade and in the Tegeler Forst?

Der Beitrag Schönower Heide – Wildwanderweg über ehemaligen Truppenübungsplatz erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

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Is a Visit to the Greenwichpromenade worthwhile?

The Greenwichpromenade in Berlin is a popular destination all year round. It is located in Alt-Tegel and runs along the eastern shore of Lake Tegel from Borsigdamm to Tegeler Hafenbrücke. Along the promenade and the Tegeler Forst forest to the north, there is plenty of room for pleasure seekers, hiking enthusiasts, water sports enthusiasts, and amateur ornithologists.

From the pier at the Greenwichpromenade, excursion boats start for round trips to the city of Berlin. Those who prefer a more sporty experience, however, can rent a boat or SUP. And if you want to walk a little further, you can pay a visit to the "Dicken Marie" and then hike further into Tegeler Forst to the Baumberge sand dune. Round off your excursion with a visit to the wildlife enclosure or a dip in the fresh water at one of the swimming spots.

Here is info on Getting there.

What are the Highlights on the Greenwichpromenade and in Tegeler Forst?

• Strolling along the Greenwichpromenade Berlin
• Excursion Boats for Round Trips
• Boat Rental
• Bird Watching is possible all Year round
• "Dicke Marie" - the oldest Tree in Berlin
• Wildlife Enclosure with wild Boars, Fallow Deer and Moufflons
• Hiking in the Tegeler Forst with an extensive Network of Trails
• Sand Dune Baumberge
• Bathing Places with sandy Beach

Strolling along the Greenwichpromenade Berlin

It is especially beautiful early in the morning. Then you have the promenade almost to yourself. The city slowly wakes up, the first joggers come and dog owners walk their darlings. If you then look for a sunny spot on a bench and unpack your breakfast, it's a perfect start to the day, isn't it?

You can spend a lot of time on the promenade. There is always something to see and something new to discover. There are numerous benches on the shore from where you can watch the lively hustle and bustle during the day. And if the little hunger comes, then you will also find several Refreshments options or kiosks in the vicinity.

You need something to read while enjoying the sun on the bench? Then check out my Book Recommendations for Trips to the Nature in and around Berlin .

Why you should not feed ducks

Feeding ducks is already banned in Berlin and many other cities. For good reason. Bread is unhealthy for ducks because it contains too much salt and swells in the stomach. Leftover food worsens water quality and increases algae growth. Lying debris also attracts rats and mice. Furthermore, ducks lose their natural shyness towards humans and can be more easily involved in accidents on the road or with dogs.

However, if you do not want to give up feeding and if it is allowed, then please use special waterfowl food. You can get it in pet stores or hardware stores. Do not throw it into the water, but lay it out on the shore and let the ducks pick it up there. Collect any leftovers afterwards to keep the bank clean and avoid attracting rats.

Excursion Boats for Round Trips

The boats of the Stern und Kreis shipping company depart from the jetties on Greenwichpromenade for various tours. The Oberhavelsee tour is considered a classic in northern Berlin. The two-hour trip goes through the rich island world of Lake Tegel to Nieder Neuendorf in the former inner-German border area.

Another popular boat trip is the tour along the Berlin-Spandau shipping canal to the government district.

Boat Rental

Directly at the Tegeler See, between the steamer landing stage and the red "Sechserbrücke" is the boat rental Mühl with rowing and pedal boats.
From April 2021, the offer is to be expanded with kayaks and SUPs.

Also for the physical well-being is provided here. At the kiosk "Gordis Schlemmerhafen" you can fortify yourself with snacks, ice cream and hot and cold drinks.

Birdwatching

The Greenwichpromenade is one of my favorite places for bird watching in Berlin. This is because there are birds to see here all year round. Various ducks, swans and Canada geese cavort along the promenade itself. Gulls rest on the posts of the jetties or cormorants dry their feathers. There are also numerous nesting boxes hanging on trees along the shore path into Tegeler Forst, providing a nesting place for tits or nuthatches.

"Dicke Marie" - the oldest Tree in Berlin

The "Dicke Marie" is considered the oldest tree in Berlin. Its age is estimated at over 800 years. It is said to have received its name from the Humboldt brothers. It was an allusion to the obese cook in Tegel Palace. The famous poet Johann Wolfgang von Goethe also visited this tree in 1778.

Dicke Marie is a pedunculate oak with a height of about 18.5 meters and a trunk circumference of 5.98 meters. This corresponds to a diameter of about 1.9 meters. The tree is a registered natural monument.

The Wildlife Enclosure in Tegeler Forst

The Tegelsee forestry district manages two wildlife enclosures. One for wild boars and another for fallow deer and mouflon. Here you can experience the forest inhabitants at close range. And maybe you are lucky and there have been offspring. On information boards you can also learn interesting facts about the animals.

Hiking in Tegel Forest

Tegeler Forst is a 2,169-hectare forest area with a seemingly endless network of hiking trails. There are wide main paths and side paths that are hardly used. Here you can lose yourself among the trees and let your mind wander. The forest is a protected landscape area and one of the five important Berlin forests.

Tip: Is your cell phone charged? You'll need a map to find your location. Because getting lost is almost part of the game here.

On the Mühlenweg in Tegeler Forst stands the largest tree in Berlin, the Burgsdorff larch. This larch was planted in 1795 and is over 43 meters high. The oldest tree in the city, the Dicke Marie, can be found on Schwarzer Weg near the shore of Lake Tegel.

Sand Dune Baumberge

At the northern edge of the Tegeler Forst lies the Sand Dune Baumberge. The 30 meter high dune is impressive at any time of the year, because so much sand is usually only seen on the beach. A visit is worthwhile at any time of the year.

How was the Dune formed?

The dune formation dates back to the time after the last inland ice sheet melted. At that time, westerly winds blew sand from the Berlin glacial valley towards the east, where dunes accumulated. In the course of time, a closed plant cover formed over the sand. Parts of the Tegel Forest were cleared several times in the course of history and then grew back again. Most recently, parts of the Baumberge were cleared during World War II. The subsequent decades of military use by French Allied troops meant that the sandy area did not grow back over.

The special feature of this Natura 2000 site is its dry grassland communities. In addition to typical dune vegetation with silver and red bunchgrass, sandy heaths with heather and broom also occur here.

Bathing Places at Lake Tegel

Several bathing spots with sandy beaches and excellent bathing water quality invite you to cool off at Lake Tegel. On the northern shore are the Reihenwerder and Scharfenberg bathing spots and the Tegeler See open-air swimming pool. If you are heading south from Greenwichpromenade, the bathing spots Reiswerder and Saatwinkel are on your way.

Please go swimming at the supervised bathing places and protect the shores!

The Tegeler See is with almost 400 ha and a length of about 2.8 km the second largest lake in Berlin. It is not only a popular bathing water and Eldorado for water sports enthusiasts, but also of great importance for the drinking water supply.

Refreshments

On the way from the Alt-Tegel subway station to Greenwichpromenade, you will pass numerous restaurants, ice cream parlors, french fry stands and bakeries. Here you can stock up on provisions, should you not have anything with you. On the lakeside itself there are the Tegeler Seeterassen and the Pavillon am See,which is even closer to the water. There is also a public toilet here.There is another public toilet at the Tegelsee game reserve.

If you walk in the direction of Tegeler Forst, you'll find more places to stop behind the red Six Bridge. I found the beer garden at the Waldhütte restaurant neben der “Dicken Marie”.

If you walk south, there is the Seegarten Tegel just before the Borsighafen.

Getting there by Public Transportation

Take the subway line U 6 to the terminus Alt-Tegel. Then walk about 10 minutes to the shore of the Tegeler See, where the Greenwichpromenade begins.

If you walk north from Greenwichpromenade through Tegeler Forst, you can take bus line 222 from Tegelort back to the Alt Tegel subway station. On weekends, the bus runs every 20 minutes.

All those who walk south from Greenwichpromenade (i.e. not to Tegeler Forst) can also take a look at the Graffiti Skyscrapers in Art Park Tegel. For the return trip, the U6 subway line from Holzhauser Straße or bus 133 and X33 at Bernauer Straße would then be suitable.

Book Recommendations for Trips to the Nature in and around Berlin

You are drawn to the outdoors in the countryside? Then I have a lot of Berlin excursion tips for you. You can order the books with a click on the pictures at Amazon. If you buy a book or another article via an affiliate link, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you.

Ab ins Grüne – Ausflüge mit der Berliner S-Bahn: Rad – und Wandertouren rund um Berlin*

52 kleine & große Eskapaden in und um Berlin: Ab nach draußen!*

Auf Försters Wegen: Die schönsten Berliner Waldwanderungen*

Did you like my Berlin trip tip to the Greenwichpromenade at Lake Tegel? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends. Do you have any questions or suggestions? If so, please write me a comment!

More Berlin articles to read on

You want to discover more of Berlin? How about Berlin's Lost Places or a trip to the Graffiti-Hochhäusern im Art Park Berlin-Tegel?

Der Beitrag Grünes Berlin – Ausflugstipp Greenwichpromenade und Tegeler Forst erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

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All 15 Highlights of the Berlin Wall Trail at a Glance

#1 Remains of the Berlin Wall - Watchtowers and Wall
#2 The Cherry Blossom - When and Where?
#3 Former Border Crossing Bornholmer Straße and Platz des 9. November 1989
#4 Bernauer Strasse with Documentation and Visitor Centre Berlin Wall Memorial
#5 Border and Ghost Stations in divided Berlin
#6 Brandenburg Gate - Symbol for the Division of Germany
#7 Checkpoint Charly
#8 East Side Gallery - the longest open Air Gallery in the World
#9 Check Point for Vessels and Molecule Man
#10 The southern Route of the Mauerweg: wide Fields and Birch Groves
#11 Around the Border Checkpoint Dreilinden
#12 Section Griebnitzsee to Wannsee
#13 Glienicke Bridge aka "Unit Bridge" or "Agent Bridge"
#14 Sacrower Heilandskirche
#15 With the Ferry from Wannsee to Kladow

Why walk the Wall Trail?

The Berlin Wall Trail runs for 160 kilometers once around West Berlin. I walked it in the spring of 2020. It was my compensation during the Corona restrictions, a time when all borders in the EU and beyond were suddenly closed. Our freedom to travel, which we had taken for granted, had suddenly moved into the distant future for an indefinite period. GDR jokes were dug out and turned into corona jokes. It was - and still is - a time that made me think. Which taught me that nothing should be taken for granted. What could be more appropriate than walking the Berlin Wall Trail in this context? How must people in East Berlin have felt back then, when a wall was being built before their eyes? When their normality suddenly changed? I know that the comparison is a bit vague - but nevertheless I have seen the meaning of borders with different eyes.

But working through history is not the only reason for starting the Wall Walk. The path is simply the only long-distance hiking trail in or around Berlin and offers great opportunities for some exercise in the countryside (depending on the section) and in the fresh air. And the Berlin Wall Trail also has some really exciting highlights to offer.

The Stages of the Berlin Wall Trail

The Berlin Wall Trail is divided into 14 stages for hikers. These are between 5 and 21 kilometres long. The start and end points are each easily accessible by S-Bahn or U-Bahn. The sections within the city are somewhat shorter. Numerous information boards, sightseeings and museums, let one progress only slowly.

1. Hermsdorf to Wollankstraße – 15 km
2. Wollankstraße to Nordbahnhof – 5 km
3. Nordbahnhof to Potsdamer Platz – 7 km
4. Potsdamer Platz to Warschauer Straße – 7 km
5. Warschauer Straße to Schöneweide – 13 km
6. Schöneweide to Schönefeld – 6 km
7. Schönefeld to Lichtenrade – 16 km
8. Lichtenrade to Lichterfelde Süd – 12 km
9. Lichterfelde Süd to Griebnitzsee – 15 km
10. Griebnitzsee to Wannsee – 12 km
11. Wannsee to Staaken – 21 km
12. Staaken to Hennigsdorf – 20 km
13. Hennigsdorf to Hohen Neuendorf – 10 km
14. Hohen Neuendorf to Hermsdorf – 6 km

The route is well signposted throughout and can be walked without a map or GPS. In the inner city area, the course of the Wall is also marked by a double row of cobblestones. However, a map is helpful if you are looking for the nearest bus stop. A map and gpx file can be found here.

Of course you can also cycle the Wall Trail and combine stages. Bicycles can be taken along on the trains with an extra ticket.

Hiking or rather by Bike?

Many people know the Berlin Wall Trail only as the"Mauerradweg". And indeed: almost the entire length of the path is ideal for cycling. In summer, maybe even a bit too good - it gets crowded quickly and as a hiker you have the feeling that you are a bit out of place. What helps then?

• In general it is better to start early in the morning. zu starten.
• If the Wall Trail is too crowded for you, then look out for parallel hiking trails. There are, for example, between Rudow and Lichterfelde Süd.
• From Schöneweide to Schönefeld, the Wall Trail runs for 6 kilometres between the noisy motorway and the Teltow Canal without offering anything interesting. You can easily skip this section, for example by taking bus lines 160 and 265 from the James-Franck-Straße stop to Baumschulenstraße.
• There are so many things worth seeing on the stages in the city centre that the best way to get around is on foot.

The 15 Highlights of the Berlin Wall Trail

The Berlin Wall Trail is varied and there is a lot to discover. Both the history enthusiast and the nature lover will get their money's worth. I've put together a few highlights of the Berlin Wall Trail that I particularly liked.

But one more thing in advance: along the way there are many information steles that tell of escape attempts and individual fates. I read through every single story and was deeply touched. Take your time for the stories!

#1 Remains of the Berlin Wall - Watchtowers and Wall

What makes the Berlin Wall Trail so special? Certainly all the remains of the border fortifications that you can still discover along the way. Especially the former watchtowers and longer sections of the Berlin Wall, but also metal fences, vehicle barriers, and the so-called Stalin lawn. Every single relict of the border installations contributes to a deeper understanding of the history of the division of Germany. And because this topic is so important, I have written a separate article about the remains of the Berlin Wall - Watchtowers and Remains of the Wall that are worth seeing.

#2 The Cherry Blossom - When and Where?

The cherry trees blossom in April, the exact start depends on the weather. Berlin's longest cherry tree avenue with over 1000 trees is located on the Berlin Wall Trail between Ostpreußendamm and Japan-Eck (Lichterfelder Allee 165). The Hanami cherry blossom festival is celebrated here every year. But there are also sections with cherry tree avenues in the city, for example next to the Wollankstraße S-Bahn station and on the section directly in front of the Bornholmer Straße S-Bahn station. The trees are a gift from Japan to celebrate the first anniversary of the fall of the Wall.

#3 Former Border Crossing Bornholmer Straße and Platz des 9. November 1989

The border crossing on Bornholmer Strasse was the first of the seven Berlin crossings to be opened on 9 November. The barrier went up at about 22.30 hours. Crowds streamed across the Bösebrücke bridge into West Berlin. A timeline on the ground and an open air exhibition with photographs and texts document the events. Here you can really join in the excitement of what happened after Politburo member Günter Schabowski announced at the legendary press conference that Western travel was possible across all border crossings. From now on! Here you can still see a piece of the hinterland wall of the border fortifications.

#4 Bernauer Strasse with Documentation and Visitor Centre Berlin Wall Memorial

The 1.4 kilometer long Berlin Wall Memorial begins opposite Mauerpark. You'll have to plan a little more time here. Numerous information pillars document the events on Bernauer Strasse with photos and touching texts. This is where particularly dramatic escapes occurred in August 1961. Because the houses on Bernauer Strasse were in the east, but the pavement in front of the houses belonged to the French sector. When the border guards here began to wall up the windows of the ground floor apartments in August 1961, many of the residents tried to flee from the upper windows. Not everyone was lucky. Finally, the houses were cleared and demolished in 1965.

Several escape tunnels were also dug in Bernauer Strasse. Their location is indicated on the ground by markings.

At the end of Bernauer Strasse it is worth visiting the Documentation Center and the Berlin Wall Memorial Visitor Center. From the observation tower of the Documentation Center you can see a section of the Wall in its original structure , including the watchtower. This is the only complete section of the Wall that is still standing. Admission is free.

#5 Border and Ghost Stations in divided Berlin

During the division of Germany, several underground and suburban railway stations in Berlin became ghost stations. The trains of today's U-Bahn lines 6 and 8 and the north-south connection of the S-Bahn then passed under East Berlin without stopping. They slowly drove past the abandoned and closed stations - although - they were not that abandoned. Here, too, armed border guards made sure that nobody used the underground railway tunnels to escape. This certainly made the ghost stations a bit scarier.

The Nordbahnhof was one such ghost station. Here, the exhibition Ausstellung “Grenz- und Geisterbahnhöfe im geteilten Berlin” is located on a mezzanine floor (entrance Gartenstraße; free admission).

#6 Brandenburg Gate - Symbol for the Division of Germany

The former city gate and landmark of Berlin stood in the middle of the border strip during the division of Germany in the Soviet sector. Pariser Platz was also part of the border strip. Both were inaccessible to GDR citizens. For foreign guests, however, an information centre was set up in one wing of the Brandenburg Gate. The Brandenburg Gate became a symbol of a divided Germany. Today, an exhibition in the underground station Brandenburger Tor (U55) informs about its history.

#7 Checkpoint Charly

There is always a lot going on at Checkpoint Charly. Next to the East Side Gallery it is the most visited place at the former border and is also one of the most famous sights of Berlin. Since 2000, the replica of a former control barrack of the so-called foreigners' border crossing has been standing here. The portrait of a border guard still watches over this place and a large sign warns against leaving the American sector.

But here at Checkpoint Charly there is even more to see: The open-air exhibition Checkpoint Gallery documents the history of the border crossing with large-format photos. The Wall Museum and the Cold War Black Box invite history fans to visit. panoramic picture of Yadegar Asisi transports the visitor into a fictitious autumn day of the 1980s. In addition, there are several souvenir shops offering GDR-specific souvenirs, such as Trabis or pieces of the Wall. As you can see, you could plan a whole day for this highlight of the Berlin Wall Trail.

Speaking of Trabants: Have you ever driven one? How about a Trabi-Safari* in Berlin? I once owned a light blue Trabant station wagon for a short time. The steering wheel gear shifting took a little getting used to.

You want to explore the former border on a guided tour? Then I can recommend the Insider Tour Cold War* (english + german) and a guided Bike Tour along the Wall in a small group* (german).

#8 East Side Gallery

The colourful side of the East Side Gallery - an expression of joy and hope

The East Side Gallery is the longest section of the wall still preserved, at about 1.3 kilometres. And certainly also the most famous. For the Wall between Ostbahnhof and Oberbaumbrücke is not only a testimony to history, but also the longest open air gallery in the world. So there are two good reasons for a visit. The Berlin Wall Foundation offers public guided tours focusing on history or art.

The East Side Gallery was built after the opening of the Berlin Wall between spring and autumn 1990. 118 artists from 21 countries painted the then grey concrete wall with 106 works of art. And thus saved the Wall from demolition. In their paintings, the artists expressed the political changes of 1989/90 and their joy over the fall of the Wall. In November 1991, the wall and its paintings were finally listed as a historical monument. However, environmental influences and overpainting caused the paintings to suffer. After minor restoration measures, a complete restoration finally took place in 2009. The works of art were removed and the respective artists were asked to repaint their paintings with more resistant colours.

The white side of the East Side Gallery - a shadow catcher

The side of the East Side Gallery facing the Spree River was recently painted white. At first I interpreted this as preparation for new works of art. But I was completely wrong. The East Side Gallery has been restored to its original pre-1989 condition. In its function as a barrier element, this side of the wall had been painted light-colored since the 1980s. The border guards were supposed to be able to see the shadows of people fleeing more easily. The historical condition of the Wall should be made visible to the visitor again and contribute to a deeper understanding of this place.

#9 Check Point for Vessels and Molecule Man

The "Molecule Man" by Jonathan Borofsky can be seen from far away. He stands for the growing together of the three districts Friedrichshain, Treptow and Kreuzberg and is a great photo motif. In the background you can see the remains of the former check point for vessels. The approximately 500-metre-long footbridge for customs clearance dating from 1962 still exists and, like all border fortifications, is now a listed building. It was here that a spectacular escape was made: twelve GDR citizens reached West Berlin on a pleasure boat.

From here you also have a good view of the beautiful Oberbaum Bridge. The border crossing over the Oberbaum Bridge was only allowed to be used by pedestrians at that time.

#10 The southern Route of the Mauerweg: wide Fields and Birch Groves

The southern part of the Wall Trail from Schönefeld to Lichterfelde Süd is ideal if you want to get out of Berlin into the countryside. From the path on the outskirts you usually have a wide view over the fields outside the city. In addition to the paved bike path, there is usually an unpaved path for hikers.

The route also has two highlights somewhat apart from the actual route: from the viewpoint of the former landfill you have a great view of the outskirts. The "Dörferblick" (village view) at Rudow also offers you a great view. But the most fascinating thing about this hill is its butterflies. In spring you can watch the beautiful yellow-black swallowtails with great certainty.

Hiking boots, daypacks and everything else you might need for a hike on the Berlin Wall Trail can be found at Bergzeit*.

#11 Around the Border Checkpoint Dreilinden

The Berlin Wall Trail from Lichterfelde Süd to Griebnitzsee is a highlight for all fans of Lost Places. Here you can discover two abandoned places. The border checkpoint Dreilinden on today's A115 and the original border checkpoint Dreilinden near Teerofenbrück with the remains of the former motorway route. At that time the highway was too close to the inner German border. Therefore, it was relocated. The border control point was also newly built and is known as Checkpoint Bravo. Its red-blue-yellow pop-art rotunda was a strong contrast to the gray border installations of the GDR. It was opened in 1973. Since 2002, however, the entire Dreilinden rest area has been abandoned and has decayed.

There is not much left of the former Dreilinden border inspection post. An old motorway bridge, remnants of the motorway, markings and pedestrian paths, a three-mast flag system and the old service building. You can find out more about the two former border checkpoints in my article Lost Places in Berlin and Brandenburg. After you have crossed the former highway bridge over the Teltow Canal, you can also run along the old highway route parallel to the Mauerweg. This has been dismantled, but is still clearly recognizable from the terrain formation.

#12 Section Griebnitzsee to Wannsee

The Wall Trail between Griebnitzsee and Wannsee was one of the most beautiful for me. A little bit like vacation and perfect for a nice summer day. There are also many great opportunities for side trips to other interesting places. So prepare for a long day. There are also lots of great places to stop for a refreshment. And don't forget your bathing suit!

From the Griebnitzsee S-Bahn station, the route first leads along the lake to the Klein Glienicke park bridge. The border facilities were located on the southern shore of the lake, which had been expropriated for the construction of the border. Today there are impressive villas. Unfortunately, their plots mostly reach down to the water, so there is only a short walk at the shore. Klein Glienicke is located behind the park bridge. At the time of the division, the place was only accessible via this small bridge with a special pass. At one of the houses you can still see the faded red advertising of a former consumer - the supermarket chain of the GDR.

The Wall Trail then leads you past the Glienicke Bridge and along the banks of the Havel. From here you have a view of the Sacrower Heilandskirche and the Pfaueninsel. Side trips are worthwhile. Behind the Pfaueninsel, the Mauerweg then runs on the Pfaueninselchaussee to Königstraße. This is not particularly exciting, especially since there is also traffic here. Alternatively, you can walk through the Grunewald forest and enjoy the peace or simply continue along the riverside path.

#13 Glienicke Bridge aka "Unit Bridge" or "Agent Bridge"

In 1660 there was a bridge on the site of today's Glienicke Bridge, which connected Berlin and Potsdam. Shortly before the end of the Second World War, the Glienicke Bridge was blown up by German soldiers. The Soviet troops temporarily built a pontoon bridge. It was not until December 1949 that the bridge was restored and henceforth had the name “Brücke der Einheit” - as a reminder of the unity of the anti-fascist parties. But in 1952 it was closed and was only passable with a special pass. The “Bridge of Unity” was now part of the border that separated Berlin and Potsdam. As an “Agentenbrücke” , it finally became a mystical place of the Cold War. This was because agents were exchanged between east and west over the bridge.

#14 Sacrower Heilandskirche

The Sacrower Heilandskirche gives a nice picture. It is difficult to imagine that the border between East and West Berlin ran across the church grounds. The bell tower was part of the border wall. The services were stopped in December 1961, the church in the no man's land fell into disrepair. But donations from the West at least made it possible for the church to be preserved externally. The interior of the church has now been restored and is available for church services, weddings and concerts. If you want to visit the church, you can take the ferry from Krughorn.

#15 With the Ferry from Wannsee to Kladow

The ferry crossing is especially attractive in summer. Many sailing boats and paddlers are on the water. You also have a great view of the villas on the shore, the marinas and the Wannsee lido. Shortly before the ferry reaches Kladow, it passes the tiny island of Imchen. Hundreds of cormorants live here. The trees that carry their nests are dead and bare. Even if the cormorant colony is not popular with everyone, the birds are under protection and the whole island is a nature reserve.

Book Recommendations for Berlin Explorers

If you want to go deeper and learn more about the Berlin Wall, I can recommend the following books. Click on the picture to get to Amazon, where you can order the books. If you buy something through one of these affiliate links, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you.

Did you enjoy my article on the highlights of the Berlin Wall Trail? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends. Do you have any questions or suggestions? If so, please write me a comment!

More Berlin articles to read on

You want to discover more of Berlin? How about Berlin's Lost Places or a trip to the Graffiti Skyscrapers in Art Park Tegel?

Der Beitrag Berliner Mauerweg – 15 Highlights rund um West-Berlin erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

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From the Military Training Area "Döberitz" to an Excursion Destination near Berlin
Hiking on the Döberitzer Heide near Berlin
When is the best Season for a Trip to the Döberitzer Heide?
By Bus and Train for Hiking in the Döberitzer Heide
Conclusion about my Trip to the Döberitzer Heide

From the Military Training Area "Döberitz" to an Excursion Destination near Berlin

The use as a Military Training area created special Biotopes

The use as a military training area created special biotopes The Döberitzer Heide was officially inaugurated in 1895 by Kaiser Wilhelm II as a military training area. But even before that, military exercises had already taken place on the site. Around the end of the century, large areas were finally cleared. This resulted in desert-like areas. A narrow-gauge railway was built to transport the timber. In some places even remains of the railway embankment can still be seen. During the Hitler era, bunkers and other shooting ranges were built on the site. Large caserns were also built in the neighbourhood: the Adler-Löwenkaserne in Elstal and the Krampnitz-Kaserne near Potsdam. After the Second World War, the Soviet occupation troops used the area as a training ground.

During its use as a military training area, special biotopes developed. Tracked vehicles, fires and explosions limited the vegetation. Open and semi-open areas low in nutrients were created. The area became a unique, wilderness-like retreat for plants and animals. Many of them are on the Red List.

Tip: There are more former military training areas around Berlin which are interesting destinations for excursions. For example Forst-Zinna near Jüterborg or the Schönower Heide in the north of Berlin. Are you interested in Lost Places? Then have a look at my article about the Lost Places in Berlin and Brandenburg .

Nature Experience Space with special Landscape Gardeners and Military Relics

After the withdrawal of Soviet troops in 1992, the Naturschutz Förderverein Döberitzer Heide e.V. took care of the preservation and development of the areas. There was a lot to do. After the end of military use, the valuable open landscapes were threatened by scrub encroachment. The diversity of biotopes and species was endangered by natural succession. In addition, the entire area was contaminated with explosive ordnance and the occupation troops left behind mountains of rubbish and scrap. It was not until 1999 that the clearance of explosive ordnance and the removal of the contaminated sites was finally begun.

Landscape Gardeners

The former military training area became an exemplary nature experience area. With some very special landscape gardeners: bisons, Przewalski horses, red deer, sheep and goats keep the vegetation short and thus help to preserve the valuable semi-open and open landscapes. Unfortunately we did not see any of the big animals during our hike. They were hidden deep in the wilderness zone. But we could observe all the more sheep and goats.

But when we went hiking on the Döberitzer Heide another time the following year, things looked different: From the observation tower we could watch a small herd of Przewalski horses grazing. They were a bit further away, but even without binoculars you could see the animals very well. Not far away from the observation tower there was another surprise for us. There was a huge bison. He was alone and was not irritated at all by our presence. What an impressive animal! He was very close to the fence and grazed here a few dry stalks. Sometimes he looked up. Then he looked much bigger again. His neck had a short, curly mane and his head was decorated with two horns. I would rather not see them in action.

Military Relics

There are still traces of the former military use. For example the bunker ruin at the "Great Desert" or the better preserved bunker west of the obelisk. Also smaller relics can be found along the way. This makes a hike on the Döberitzer Heide even more exciting.

Hiking on the Döberitzer Heide near Berlin

The Döberitzer Heide is divided into two areas:

• Since 2010 there is a 1,860 hectare "wilderness zone" n the middle. Among others, bisons, Przewalski horses and red deer live here. However, this zone is bordered by a triple (!) fence and reserved for nature.
• The "nature experience ring zone", which covers about 1,800 hectares, has 55 km of hiking trails, several picnic areas and an observation tower (85 metres above sea level). Here sheep and goats are the landscape gardeners.

Below on the map you can see my hiking route through the nature experience ring zone. It started at the entrance of Elstal. First I followed the circular hiking trail around the wilderness zone. It is very easy to find. Because most of the time it runs right next to the fence of the core zone. Over 22 kilometres it leads through different landscapes and you can see everything that the Döberitzer Heide has to offer. Only for the obelisk and the bunker I made a small detour.

For your orientation I can also recommend the Open Street Map. There are many details, landscape forms and paths drawn in.

When is the best Season for a Trip to the Döberitzer Heide?

Hiking on the Döberitzer Heide is always a worthwhile excursion. At any time of the year. The landscape always shows itself with a new face:

• Spring: In May the broom blossoms turn yellow and the silver grass gives the open areas a reddish shine in June.
• Summer: the flowering sand-thyme and the blooming heather colour the landscape purple. When does the heather bloom? As a rule of thumb you can easily remember: 8.8. to 9.9.
• Autumn: Now it is most beautiful in the wooded areas, as soon as the leaves of the trees have turned an autumnal colour.
• winter,: When there is snow, the wide open area north of the Döberitzer Heide is a great winter wonderland. The area is also ideal for cross-country skiing.

By Bus and Train for Hiking in the Döberitzer Heide

A trip from Berlin to the Döberitzer Heide is also easily done by public transport:

• To Elstal and Dallgow Döberitz with the regional train line RE4. The train runs hourly. From Berlin main station you need about 20 minutes. From both stations you can reach the Döberitzer Heide in about 30 minutes on foot.
• At the entrance Krampnitz (bus stop Potsdam, Krampnitzsee) the bus line 638 goes to Spandau station (about 30 minutes).
• To get to Priort, take the regional train RE4 to Wustermark and from there take the RB21 for one more stop to Priort station. Or you can take the RE4 to Elstal and from there three more stops with the bus line 662.

Conclusion about my Trip to the Döberitzer Heide

After my day trip to the Döberitzer Heide and 27 kilometres of hiking, one thing is clear: I will definitely come back! A trip to the Döberitzer Heide is worthwhile.

• The nature reserve is easy to reach by public transport, bicycle or car.
• Döberitzer Heide is not overcrowded, even on beautiful weekend days you won't meet many other hikers or bikers.
• The network of paths is well signposted and marked, there are information boards, picnic areas, benches and a lookout tower (of which, unfortunately, you don't see much).
• I found it a little bit a pity that on the circular path around the wilderness zone one always has the fence beside oneself. Good for the orientation but the experience of nature is a bit reduced.
• There is always something to see: great landscape, animals, plants. Cultural-historical relics from the time of military use make the hike even more exciting.

Important to know for cyclists: there is an asphalt cycle path only on the edge in the north of the Döberitzer Heide. Often the paths are very sandy, so that you have to push sometimes.

Book Recommendations for Trips in and around Berlin

Are you drawn to the outdoors in the countryside? Then I have a lot of tips for excursions for you (sorry - the books are all in German):

Ab ins Grüne – Ausflüge mit der Berliner S-Bahn: Rad – und Wandertouren rund um Berlin*

52 kleine & große Eskapaden in und um Berlin: Ab nach draußen!*

Auf Försters Wegen: Die schönsten Berliner Waldwanderungen*

Did you like my tips for a trip to the Döberitzer Heide? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends. Do you have any questions or suggestions? If so, please write me a comment!

Der Beitrag Döberitzer Heide – Ausflug zum alten Truppenübungsplatz bei Berlin erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.