Scotland Scotland is known as a paradise for hikers, scramblers and climbers. Here, climbing the so-called Munros, or Munro bagging, is practiced like a national sport. And as soon as the first snow falls in the mountains, Munro bagging continues with crampons and ice axes. But winter mountaineering in Scotland has to be learned and practiced. We took a closer look and participated in a Scottish Winter Mountaineering course in beautiful Glencoe. With crampons, ice axe and ropes we went high up and steep down. Scottish winter weather and breathtaking views included.

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Caution: Many Munros require a bundle of special equipment and skills. Every winter, underprepared hikers and climbers experience nasty surprises, some with fatal outcomes. Scottish winter weather and snow and ice conditions should by no means be underestimated.

What are Munros?

Munro is the name given to all the mountains in Scotland that are higher than 3000 feet (914.4 m). They are named after Sir Hugh T. Munro, who surveyed and catalogued all the Munros in 1891. The highest of the 282 Munros is Ben Nevis at 1,345 m (3,000 ft).

Climbing the Munros requires stamina and sometimes technical skills. Those who have climbed all the Munros are held in high esteem by the Scots. For me, also anyone who can remember the Gaelic names of the Munros and pronounce them is held in high esteem.

First Steps to become a Scottish Winter Mountaineer

Impressions from our five-day course in beautiful Glencoe, Scotland

Crampons and ice axe

The ice axe and crampons are part of the winter mountaineer's equipment. However, it is not enough to just have them with you. You also have to know how to use them and be familiar with their use. First, however, we learned how to move on the snow slope even without crampons: always hit the lateral corners of the boots into the snow. Then our instructor Chris explained to us how to use the crampons and additionally stabilize ourselves with our trekking poles or ice axe and a trekking pole. We also learned how to climb on steps in the snow or hit some with our ice axe.

Braking with the ice axe

After learning how to walk, we moved on to falling. Braking with the ice axe after a fall is an extremely important skill. But unfortunately it doesn't work instinctively and there is also the risk of hurting yourself with the ice axe or crampons. On a gently descending slope, we practiced braking in every imaginable scenario: head first, feet first, on our backs, on our stomachs, and everything in between.

Snow anchors, roping up, belaying and abseiling

The next few days we learned knots and worked with ropes, slings and rappels. We built anchors with an ice axe buried in the snow, sat in snow holes to belay our climbing partners, or rappelled down using snow anchors. Later, we also used rocks for rappelling and belaying and moved alpine style over mixed terrain.

Snow and avalanche awareness

In winter mountaineering, snow and avalanche awareness must be considered. This was taken into account first by theory lessons in the evening and the following day with a detailed examination of the snow layers and strength.

Are you interested in a mountaineering course? Then have a look at Adventure Peaks. For more information on Scottish Winter Mountaineering, visit the Mountaineering Scottland website.

Scottisch Winter Grades

There are different systems for grading the difficulty of a mountain route. Why does one need different ones? Well, they are adapted to the local climbing conditions. Here you can find an overview of the different scales.

Scottish winter grades apply to ice and mixed conditions. Roman numerals I through IX represent the overall grade, Arabic numerals the technical grade of the most difficult section. Our beginner course was limited to grades I and II.

• Grade I: Easy ascents, snow gullies and ridges. The snow slopes are steep up to 50 degrees. One ice axe is sufficient.
• Grade II: There are steeper sections with ice, which are mostly passable with an ice axe and have only minor technical difficulties. Sometimes two ice axes are required.

More about the Winter Climbing Grades.

Never trust the Scottish Weather!

Winter mountaineering in Scotland promises incredibly beautiful snowy landscapes and, at best, great views and blue skies. But the weather in Scotland is unpredictable. Storm and rain or even a white-out with zero visibility must always be expected. On one summit, as well as while rappelling down a snow slope, it nearly blew me away.

If you go to the Scottish mountains in winter, you have to be prepared for the worst of the weather and choose your equipment accordingly. On the evening before the first day of the course, Chris checked our equipment and explained exactly what we should take with us or rather leave at the hotel. Everything according to the motto: As little as possible, as much as necessary.

The season of Scottish Winter Mountaineering can stretch from October to April. But the actual length of the season is difficult to predict. There are no set dates, it just depends on the climbing areas being snowy and in good condition. Most courses in Scotland take place from January to March.

Tips for the equipment

• It is important to be prepared for emergencies: an emergency bivy sack*, a well-packed outdoor First aid kitincluding a warming blanket, an extra insulating jacket, a whistle*
• Indispensable are a reliable waterproof rain jacket and rain pants. If you are unlucky, it can rain all day. However, keep in mind that your rain gear can be damaged by handling the ice axe and crampons.
• Tip: Duct Tape*will tape anything, including torn rain jackets.
• Insulation jackets with Primaloft fill are better than down jackets in the expected wet weather. My favorite jacket has been the Arcteryx Atom*for years now. Even after 10 years of use it is still in good shape.
• Don't forget the rain cover for the backpack or pack everything in the backpack in waterproof bags*.
• Be prepared for the worst in terms of weather and be prepared for rapid weather changes. Take enough clothes with you to dress in the "onion layer principle" on site.
• Don't forget sunglasses and ski goggles. I have had good experiences with Julbo Reactive* , as the lenses adjust their brightness to the weather.
• Sturdy trekking poles, such as the Leki Sherpa XTG*, are essential for the course.
• A sip of hot tea on a cold day awakens new strength. It stays warm, for example, in the thermos flask from Esbit*. It even has two cups.

Mountain boots, hiking poles, gloves and everything else you might need for your mountaineering course in Scotland can be found at Bergzeit.

These were just a few things, the list is by no means complete. To ensure that nothing would be forgotten, Adventure Peaks gave us an extra packing list for the course.

We were able to rent the special mountaineering equipment on site. That was the climbing harness, carabiners, slings, rappelling gear, helmet, ice axe, crampons and crampon proof mountain boots (e.g. the La Sportiva Nepal Cube GTX*).

And what about the camera?

I have carried my camera up the peaks of Mount Kenya and Illinizas Norte, which are about 5000 meters high. Even in the paddle boat or while trail riding, it's always handy. But here, on the Scottisch Winter Mountaineering, I left it in the hotel with a heavy heart. First, because I expected to always have my hands full during training (it was). Second, because it rained so hard for at least the first two days that I might not have unpacked them at all. I took pictures with my phone, a Huawei P40 pro, instead. I also got some more photos from my partner and from our instructor, which I was allowed to use here. Thanks again for that.

Conclusion of the Scottish Winter Mountaineering Course in Glencoe

When I was struggling up a snow slope in rain and storm, I asked myself from time to time "Why am I doing this at all?" But then when the rain let up a bit and I stopped for a moment to look around, I'd ask myself "Why didn't I do this a long time ago?" Even though it can sometimes be exhausting and uncomfortable in the mountains, you are rewarded double and triple. With views over great landscapes and insights, for example, about what is important to you. For me, nature and the mountains are at the forefront. And the more confident I can be in the mountains, the further I get. During the Mountaineering course I learned a lot, had a great time with like-minded people and got a lot of desire for even more. A course couldn't be better, could it?

Book tips for mountain lovers who love to travel

You want to know where the journey goes? Then I can recommend these books*.

You can order the books with a click on the pictures on Amazon. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission, and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. The product will not be more expensive for you, and you will do me a huge favor.

Have you ever been to Scotland in winter? How did you like it? Do you have any questions about my article? If yes, then write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

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Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love road trips as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about a Circumnavigation of Mount Kailash in Tibet or about the Climbing Mount Kenya in Kenya.

Der Beitrag Scottisch Winter Mountaineering in Glencoe erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

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Note: The films are available in German and English. However, I have only linked to the English-language trailer on YouTube in each case. I watched the movies either on YouTube, Amazon Prime or Netflix. Please check the channel of your choice for availability.

#1 Big Miracle – USA, 2012

Rescue of whales trapped in the ice.

In 1988, the small village of Point Barrow is all over the news. That's because a family of California gray whales is trapped in the ice, their access to the open sea cut off. The three animals survive only as long as the only remaining breathing hole does not freeze over. Animal rights activists, whalers, the National Guard, politicians, the U.S. President, onlookers and oil industry representatives end up working together to try to save the whales. Who will make it in the end? The Russians with their gigantic icebreaker and a captain who will stop at nothing.

Click here for the movie trailer on YouTube.

Conclusion: A really beautiful and touching polar film to cheer along.

By the way, the film is based on a true story, which is described in the book Freeing the Whales* as Operation Breakthrough.

#2 Arctic – Iceland, 2018

Survival thriller following a plane crash in the Arctic.

Arctic is a 2018 Icelandic survival thriller from director Joe Penna. Set in a remote, Arctic area, it is about pilot Overgård who is the only survivor of a plane crash. Day after day, he tries to summon rescue by radio signal. The wreckage of the plane provides him with shelter and he feeds on raw fish, which he catches in a nearby lake. When the rescue helicopter finally arrives, everything gets worse and a fight for survival begins. Not only for his own survival, but also for that of the co-pilot, who is the only one to survive the helicopter crash in the storm. On a sled, Overgård pulls the badly injured woman through a hostile landscape of polar bears, storms, frostbite and crashes. Do they make it? I won't tell you here - watch it!

Click here for the movie trailer on YouTube.

Conclusion: Pure goosebumps!

#3 Orca the Killerwhale – USA, 1977

A bull orca whose pregnant mate has been murdered by whalers takes revenge.

Orca the Killer Whale is a US animal horror film with cult status. Canadian whaler Captain Nolan wants to catch an orca for an aquarium. But this goes wrong. He harpoons a pregnant female and pulls her aboard. While hanging upside down from the crane, she loses her calf. This all happens before the eyes of the orca bull. He memorizes the whalers' faces and a vendetta against the boat crew ensues. Captain Nolan is forced to take his boat out and face the battle with the whale. He is accompanied by, among others, the sympathetic whale researcher Rachel. They follow the whale up from Newfoundland to the pack ice, where the whale sinks the ship. The final battle between Nolan and the orca is fought out in the ice and water. Only Rachel survives and is rescued by a previously called helicopter.

Click here for the movie trailer on YouTube.

Conclusion: My absolute favorite polar movie. I don't know how many times I have watched it. Somehow this must have had a strong influence on me: the first car I bought was a green Series 2 Land Rover - exactly like the one the whale researcher drives in the movie.

#4 The red Tent – Soviet Union, Italy, 1969

Prominent adventure film with Sean Connery, Claudia Cardinale, Hardy Krüger and Peter Finch.

Italian Umberto Nobile sets out for the North Pole in the airship Italia in May 1928. Adverse weather conditions, however, make a landing at the North Pole impossible. On the return flight to Spitsbergen, the airship becomes increasingly difficult to steer due to increasing icing and finally crashes. The survivors find shelter in a tent, which they paint red. The subsequent rescue operation turns out to be difficult. Thus, the polar explorer Roald Amundsen has an accident himself during the search and the icebreaker sent by the Russians is stuck in the ice. When the pilot Lundborg finds the victims, he persuades the injured Nobile to be the first to be flown out. However, the rescue of the other team members is then delayed due to weather conditions. From then on, Nobile is plagued by a guilty conscience. Nightmares haunt him night after night in which he discusses the question of guilt with the other participants.

Conclusion: A thrilling adventure film based on real facts.

Click here for the movie trailer on YouTube.

Are you cold? Find warm fleece sweaters, down jackets and gloves at Bergzeit*.

#5 Eight Below – USA, 2006

Walt Disney film about the survival story of a group of sled dogs left behind in Antarctica.

The crew of the small US research station in Antarctica is already preparing to return home. It' s the end of the season. But one last mission remains to be accomplished: Jerry Shepard is to assist professor Dr. Davis McClaren in his search for a meteorite from Mercury. With the sled dog team the two set off to Mount Melbourne and find the meteorite. Then the weather changes and the professor collapses in the ice. With the help of the brave dogs and their super sense of direction they make it back to the station. Because of the rising storm front the crew is to be flown out immediately. But there is no more room for the dogs in the plane, they have to stay behind. Jerry tries to get his dogs back - unsuccessfully. Only several months later he makes it back to the station. What happened to the dogs? Just watch it!

Click here for the movie trailer on YouTube.

Conclusion: A really nice polar movie, which I have already watched several times. And again and again I have tears in my eyes at the end.

You also want to go dog sledding? Click here to read my article about a Dog Sledding in Greenland.

#6 Encounters at the End of the World – Canada, USA, Germany, 2007

Documentary by Werner Herzog about people and places in Antarctica.

Werner Herzog's films are always something special. So is this one. Herzog and the Austrian cameraman Zeitlinger travel to Antarctica. There, at the end of the world, they meet people and tell their stories. What connects them to this place and how did they get here? The journey begins at the American McMurdo Station and continues via Ernest Shackleton's station to the South Pole and Mount Erebus. What drove Werner Herzog here himself? The underwater footage of divers: ice from below and life under the ice. Have you ever heard seals under water? In the film you have the opportunity – it sounds like an encounter on another planet.

Click here for the movie trailer on YouTube.

Conclusion: A very personal and endearing documentary about the people of Antarctica. At the end you ask yourself why you don't work there yourself.

You want more Antarctica? Then have a look at my Antarctica Articles.

#7 Nanook of the North – USA, 1922

Documentary from the silent film era.

The film follows the Inuit Nanuk and his family over several weeks. Nanuk lives with his family as a nomad in the Canadian Arctic. Together with his two wives Nyla and Cunayou, his son Allee, the baby Rainbow and the sled dogs he fights daily for survival. The daily life of the Inuit family is shown, including seal and walrus hunting, fishing, igloo building and fur trading. The care of the children and care of the sled dogs are also vividly documented. In addition to the beauty of nature, the harshness of Arctic life is also shown as the family's lives are put in danger during a sudden snowstorm.

Conclusion: For all who want to know how the daily life of the Inuit was in the twenties.

Click here for the whole movie on YouTube.

#8 Never Cry Wolf – USA, 1983

Nature film by Walt Disney, based on the autobiographical novel "Never Cry Wolf" (1963) by Canadian biologist and writer Farley Mowat.

After the plane takes off again, young biologist Tyler finds himself alone on an icy lake. Poorly equipped and inexperienced, surrounded by the white expanse of the Arctic tundra. On behalf of the government, he is to investigate the decline of the caribou population. The suspects are wolves, about which many horror stories are circulating.

After a while and with the help of an old Inuit, Tyler slowly finds his way around. Only he doesn't find any caribou. Instead, he explores a wolf pack and builds a respectful bond with the alpha pair. When the caribou herd finally arrives, he watches as the wolves chase the caribou and snatch an animal. After the fact, Tyler realizes that it was a sick animal. Might it be the hunting tourists who are behind the caribou kill after all? After this realization, and after an Inuit hunter kills "his" pair of wolves and three cubs are orphaned, Tyler's world collapses.

Click here for the movie trailer on YouTube.

Summary: The film shows the nature of the arctic tundra in wonderful pictures. A lot of wildlife, Inuit culture and a young man who turns from a fearful scientist into a nature lad and wolf lover.

#9 The Thing 2 – USA, Canada, 2011

Horror and science fiction film with woman power and shape shifter.

Norwegian scientists find a crashed spaceship and a creature trapped in the ice in Antarctica. Both are estimated to be 100,000 years old. They bring the block of ice containing the creature to their station and flown-in paleontologist Kate begins to study it. Elated by their spectacular find, the team celebrates the evening exuberantly. But they are abruptly interrupted. Because the extraterrestrial being is still alive. It frees itself from the ice block and kills the scientists. One after the other. To do this, the being transforms into the shape of the scientists as soon as it touches them. No one can distinguish anymore who is human or monster. Only inorganic material cannot transform the creature - a small detail that saves Kate's life in the end. She is the only one to survive the monster's attacks, but now finds herself alone in an icy desert.

The film tells the prequel to John Carpenter's The Thing from 1982, which was itself a remake of Christian Nyby's 1951 classic.

Click here for the movie trailer on YouTube.

Conclusion: A bit too much horror and a very unattractive creature. But great that in the film a woman is the smartest of them all.

#10 The Thing – USA, 1982

Horror and science fiction film for the hard-bitten.

It picks up where the 2011 film ends: a man tries to shoot a fleeing dog from a flying helicopter. When they reach an American research station, everything goes haywire: the helicopter explodes, the crazed shooting Norwegian is shot by the Americans themselves, and the dog is put in the kennel with the other dogs. There he then shows his true colors and kills the other dogs. Using a flamethrower, the Americans kill the creature - or so they think.

To understand the events, two of them fly to the Norwegian station. They find it almost completely destroyed. With the help of the Norwegians' records, the Americans find out what they are dealing with. The alien being is a shape-shifter that was trapped in the ice after its spaceship crashed about 100,000 years ago. After physical contact, the being can take on the form of the person in question. No one can distinguish who is human or monster anymore, they all distrust each other. There is only one thing they agree on: they must prevent the alien being from leaving the station and threatening all of humanity at all costs.

Click here for the movie trailer on YouTube.

Conclusion: You have to like horror movies...

#11 Smilla’s Sense of Snow – Denmark, Germany, Sweden, 1997

A meteorite crashed in Greenland and a suspected accident involving an Inuit boy awaken the detective in a reclusive scientist.

Smilla Jaspersen liked her neighbor, the little Greenlandic boy Isaiah. She didn't think he fell off the roof while playing. Because his footprints in the snow, in her eyes, rather indicate an escape. The scientist investigates. Her search leads her to the Greenland Mining company and finally to a research ship and Greenland. In the meantime, she experiences many dicey situations and only narrowly escapes a bomb attack. In the end she finds out the truth in Greenland and realizes the connection between the meteorite that crashed in 1859 and the death of the boy.

Click here for the movie trailer on YouTube.

Conclusion: An exciting thriller that takes us from Copenhagen to Kiruna and Greenland.

#12 Antarctica: Ice and Sky – Germany, 2015

Portrait of glaciologist Claude Lorius and plea for climate protection.

In this documentary by Luc Jacquet, we accompany French explorer Claude Lorius into the endless snow and ice landscapes of Antarctica. Lorius sets out in 1957 to study the ice masses of Antarctica.

He discovered that the air bubbles trapped in the ice provided information about the climate of past times. His work made it possible for the first time to trace climate history back 800,000 years. The insights gained into climate change are groundbreaking and proof of man-made global warming, the consequences of which Lorius warns of as early as 1965.

Click here for the movie trailer on YouTube.

Conclusion: A documentary worth seeing, which shows not only the beauty of Antarctica, but also its fragility.

#13 Glory & Honor – USA, 1998

The biographical feature film tells the story of the expeditions of Robert Edwin Peary and Matthew Henson.

At the end of the nineteenth century, the American Robert Edwin Peary set himself the goal of planting America's flag in the North Pole.

During his first exploratory voyage to Greenland in 1891, Peary is accompanied by his assistant Matthew Henson, among others. The Inuit recognize the black Henson as a kidnapped cousin. They outfit him with polar clothing and teach him their language and how to use dog sleds. This gives him a clear advantage during the rest of the expedition.

On the second expedition, Matthew Henson has risen to full expedition member and is an important link between the explorers and the Inuit. But both advances to the Pole fail and Peary loses eight of his toes to frostbite.

The Third Expedition in 1908-1909 is better equipped: with Inuit fur clothing, dog sleds and igloos, the advance to the Pole is finally to succeed. (Note: It is still disputed whether Peary actually reached the North Pole).

Click here for the whole film on YouTube.

Conclusion: For everyone who is interested in the early polar expeditions and the relationship between the explorers and the Inuit, this is a great polar film.

Are your eyes now square from watching so many movies? Then how about a book? In my article Polar Literature - Book Tips on the Arctic and Antarctic you will surely find what you are looking for. Have a look right now!

Here are a few books* as a foretaste:

There are many more great polar movies, especially documentaries. A second article with more great Arctic and Antarctic films will follow. What is your favorite film? I would love to add it to my list. Which is your favorite movie? Ich würde ihn gerne in meiner Liste ergänzen.

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love the polar regions as much as I do? Then check out my articles about Antarctica and a Winter Tour in Greenland .

Der Beitrag Filmtipps! Die 13 besten Polarfilme erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

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What is a Glacial Lagoon and how is it formed?
Jökulsárlón, Fjallsárlón or Heinabergslón? Which is the most beautiful Glacial Lagoon in Iceland?
Seals in the Glacier Lagoons
What can one do at the Glacier Lagoons?
Safety
Location and how to get to the Glacier Lagoons in the South of Iceland
Camping near the Glacier Lagoons
Interesting Places near the Ice Lagoons

What is a Glacial Lagoon and how is it formed?

Glacial lagoons are formed when meltwater from a glacier collects in a depression in the ground and cannot drain away. This depression eventually grows into a basin, the glacial lagoon, through erosion and retreat of the glacier. Due to the large amount of sediment transported with the glaciers, glacial lagoons are usually cloudy and resemble a café latte.

Icebergs break off from the edge of the glacier into the lagoons, where they slowly melt. Each iceberg is unique in size, shape and coloring. Most of the time they are white. This is due to the trapped air bubbles that scatter the light. But there are also icebergs that are almost transparent. Their ice is older and pressure has forced the air bubbles out of the ice. Here in Iceland, many icebergs also have black stripes, spots or patterns. This is the embedded ash from past volcanic eruptions. 

Jökulsárlón, Fjallsárlón or Heinabergslón? Which is the most beautiful Glacial Lagoon in Iceland?

It is hard to say which of the three ice lagoons is the most beautiful. Each of them is a natural beauty and has its own special features that make it stand out from the other lagoons. Here are a few details:

Jökulsárlón – big Icebergs, Seals and clear Water

Jökulsárlón is located at the foot of the glacier Breiðamerkurjökull and is the most famous of the glacial lagoons in Iceland. Its formation is not at all long ago and began around 1920 with the shrinking of Breiðamerkurjökull. Since then, it has been growing incredibly fast. Frighteningly fast, because its growth is synonymous with the retreat of the glacier's edge and the melting of Breiðamerkurjökull.

In 1956, the lagoon covered an area of 4.5 km². Twenty years later it has about doubled its size. Today, Jökulsárlón is about 30 km² and continues to grow. With a depth of up to 260 meters, the ice lagoon is also the deepest lake in all of Iceland. But the landscape here is changing fast - in the future the lagoon will grow into a deep fjord.

Jökulsárlón is larger and more dramatic than the other ice lagoons in Iceland. The outlet glacier rises about 30 meters above the waterline. When it calves, the ice chunks that fall into the water can be several stories high. Then they float as icebergs in all imaginable shapes on the lagoon. And remember - only about one tenth of the iceberg is visible above the water surface! And there is something else that distinguishes Jökulsárlón from all other glacial lagoons in Iceland: its water is clear and turquoise.Normally, glacier outlets are milky murky. But due to the connection to the sea and the tides, the lagoon is regularly "washed". 

Some of the icebergs find their way into the open sea. Here they are exposed to the heavy surf and break into many small "diamonds". You will then find them washed up on the so-called “Diamond Beach”The fragments of the large icebergs sparkle here on the black sand of Breiðamerkursandur. A unique sight, unique in the world and an absolute highlight for every photographer!

Fjallsárlón - very close to the Glacier Edge

Do you prefer a little less hustle and bustle?Then I can recommend the smaller glacier lagoon Fjallsárlón. Its area is only about one fifth of the area of Jökulsárlón. But the icebergs floating on it are just as big. Advantage of Fjallsárlón compared to Jökulsárlón: You have a better view of the outlet glacier Fjallsárlón and you are much closer to the ice edge. Because of the proximity you can hear the glacier working. The cracking and crunching of the ice underlines the fantastic view of the glacier.

Heinabergslón - off the beaten Track

Heinabergslón is fed by the outlet glacier Heinabergsjökull, itself part of Vatnajökull. The somewhat lesser known ice lagoon lies off the beaten visitor path about 40 kilometers east of Jökulsárlón. A gravel road leads from the ring road to a parking lot, where a breathtaking panorama opens up. If you find the other two ice lagoons too busy and are looking for a quieter alternative, then Heinabergslón is the place for you.

Besides a small hike, you also have the possibility to do a kayak tour between the icebergs. The lagoon is a bit smaller, which is convenient for the kayak tour. Because already after a short paddle we were surrounded by impressive icebergs. We could even paddle up to the glacier and take a little walk on the ice.

Seals in the Glacier Lagoons

In the ice lagoon Jökulsárlón you can watch seals all year round. They swim around between the icebergs and every now and then you can see a head peeking out of the water. I have seen especially many seals directly at the outflow of the lagoon into the sea. Possibly there are the most fish here. Also in the Fjallsárlón there should be seals, but I didn't see any here. Only in the Heinabergslón you will not see seals for sure, because the connection to the sea is missing.

What can one do at the Glacier Lagoons?

You should not miss a boat trip on one of the glacier lagoons. It's a chance to get even closer to the icebergs and the edge of the glacier. I did the "adventure tour" with a Zodiac on the Jökulsárlón lagoon during my last trip to Iceland. That was absolutely impressive. But even better than a ride in a noisy Zodiac boat, I found the kayak tour on the Heinabergslón. Instead of a loud boat engine, we only heard our paddles slowly pulling through the water.

Here is an overview of what you can do:

Jökulsárlón - Tours with Zodiacs, Amphibious Boat and Kayaks

All costs are as of July 2020. If you want to know the current price, please check the website of the tour operator.

Icelagoon Adventure Tours offers private tours as well as special tours for photographers in addition to the popular "Adventure Tours". The total duration of the adventure tour by Zodiac is 1 hour and 45 minutes. Of this time you will be on the water for one hour. Cost: 66 euros.

Tip: It's best to sit at the very front, then you'll have the best photo opportunities.

The tour operator Glacierlagoon has besides Zodiac tours also trips with an amphibious boat in the program. With the amphibious boat you will not get as close to the icebergs as with the Zodiac. The excursion lasts 30-40 minutes. Cost: 40 euros.

Iceland Extreme also offers guided kayak tours. Duration: 1.5 hours. Cost: 69 euros.

Fjallsárlón - Tours with Zodiacs

Fjallsarlón Iceberg Boat Tours offers tours with Zodiac boats. Each boat can take 10 people. The tour on the lagoon takes about 45 minutes. In total you have to plan about 90 minutes with briefing. Cost: 53 euros. After the boat ride you can warm up with a warm meal in the restaurant Frost.

Heinabergslón - Kayak Tours

There are no Zodiac tours on Heinabergslón. Instead, you can join a guided kayak tour with Iceguide and be all alone on the water. A perfect nature experience, absolutely recommendable!

Safety

Glaciers can calve and icebergs can turn or break apart. This can cause large waves. Keep your distance from large icebergs. This applies equally to Zodiac boats, kayaks and also walkers and photographers on the shore.

Location and how to get to the Glacier Lagoons in the South of Iceland

All three lagoons are located on the south coast of Iceland between the Skaftafell Nature Reserve and the town of Höfn. They border Vatnajökull National Park, the largest protected wilderness area in all of Iceland.

Fjallsárlón is the first lagoon you will reach from Reykjavik after about 5 hours of driving (370 km). It is not visible from the ring road. After crossing Fjallsá - the outflow of the lagoon into the sea - there is a turnoff to the left leading to the parking lot.

About 10 km further east is the famous Jökulsárlón lagoon directly on the ring road. Tip: If you are here, take a look at the beautiful Diamondbeach.

Only the ice lagoon Heinabergslón is a bit more difficult to reach. That's why it is less visited. From Jökulsárlón you drive another 40 kilometers on the ring road to Flatey Farm (64°15'32.7″N 15°34'54.7″W). From here it is another 7 kilometers on a gravel road to the parking lot in front of the lagoon.

Camping near the Glacier Lagoons

Unfortunately there are no camping possibilities directly at the ice lagoons. The closest places are in Skaftafell or Höfn. Also other accommodations in the vicinity are sparse. You should make a reservation in advance.

If you want to take pictures of the ice lagoons at midnight sun, the longer drive can be a challenge. Unfortunately I didn't make it, I was just too tired. The distances from Jökulsárlón are:

• Skaftafell campground: 58 km / 60 minutes drive.
• Svinafell camping site in Skaftafell: 51 km / 45 minutes driving time
• Höfn camping: 79 km / 60 minutes driving time

Interesting Places near the Ice Lagoons

Around the glacier lagoons Jökulsárlón, Fjallsárlón and Heinabergslón there are more interesting places in the south of Iceland that are worth a visit:

• The Diamond Beach is one of the most beautiful beaches in Iceland, because this is where the icebergs from the Jökulsárlón strand. It is located right next to the ice lagoon.
• The nature reserve Skaftafell is a popular hiking area with the famous waterfall Svartifoss with its black basalt columns. The popular glacier toursalso start here. Skaftafell is located about 47 km west of Fjallsárlón.
• The Múlagljúfur Canyon is a beautiful gorge with steep rock walls, two waterfalls and spectacular views. About 3.4 kilometers west of Fjallsárlón, the dirt road branches off to the starting point of the hike.

Book Recommendations for Iceland

Do you want to know where the journey is going? Then I can recommend this travel guides* to you.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. This does not make the product more expensive for you.

Do you know the glacier lagoons in Iceland? Which one did you like best? Do you have any questions or suggestions about my article? If so, please write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love the Scandinavian countries as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about the Kayak Tour in the Swedish Archipelago or a Trekking Tour to the Greenlandic Ice Sheet.

Der Beitrag Islands Kronjuwelen: Welche ist die schönste Gletscherlagune? erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links.

Where is the Heinabergslón Glacier Lagoon?

The glacier lagoon Heinabergslón is located south of Vatnajökull, between the famous ice lagoon Jökulsárlón and the city of Höfn. It is not located right at the ring road but approximately 7 kilometres inland, thus a little off the usual tourist paths.

Iceguide offers kayak tours on the glacier lagoon. The meeting point for the tours is on the ring road at Flatey Farm. From here it takes about 15 minutes in a 4x4 bus on a gravel road to the lagoon. From Höfn to the meeting point you drive about 38 kilometres, from the Jökulsárlón ice lagoon about 42 kilometres. The GPS coordinates of the farm are 64°15'32.7″N 15°34'54.7″W (64.259074N -15.581846W).

Details of the kayak tour on the ice lagoon with Iceguide:
Total duration of the tour: 3,5 hours
Price: 15.900 ISK (about 100 Euro)

Tips for your Kayak Outfit

For the kayak tour in the glacier lagoon you will be equipped with a dry suit, rubber boots, neoprene gloves and life jacket. Underneath you should dress as comfortable and warm as possible. But not too warm on the upper part of your body, because such a dry suit quickly turns into a sweatbox.

How warm it gets while paddling depends on how fast the group is going. But if you are dawdling and freezing, you can easily paddle extra laps or zigzag.

On my paddling day it was sunny and dry at 15° Celsius, but very windy. I wore the following:

• On top I was wearing a thin long-sleeved merino shirt and a thermoshirt.
• On the legs a thermo and an outdoor leggings on top of each other.
• And on the feet a pair of thin and a pair of mega-thick merino socks.
• On the head a cap and sunglasses.

For your camera or other things you want to take with you on the kayak, waterproof bags in different sizes are available.

The Kayaks and the Wind

On the way to my kayak tour I made a short stop at the glacier lagoon Fjallsárlón. A biting wind blew head-on over the ice lagoon towards me. It was quite strong. Do we really go paddling in this wind? No sooner was I back in the car than my mobile rang. And my kayak tour was shifted from 9 to 12 o'clock. So the wind was too strong after all.

Luckily the wind calmed down a bit around noon and the kayak tour took place. Strong wind is quite common here. Once it was even so strong that it blew the kayaks away from the beach. Therefore all kayaks were now weighted down with big stones.

The kayaks are stable sit-on-top kayaks. They are wide and do not tip over so easily. However, if there is a lot of wind or you are inattentive, this can happen. Therefore our guide explained in detail what to do if we fall into the water. Sounded simple at first: Turn the kayak over again if necessary, position yourself to the side of the kayak and let your bottom and legs float up. Afterwards, one simply pulls the kayak underneath oneself. I prefered not to try it...

You've never paddled before? No problem! Your guide will explain everything you need to know: Among other things, how to adjust the footrests, how to hold the paddle and how to paddle as energy-saving as possible.

The Glacier Heinabergjökull

A real paddle tour also includes a little break where you can get out and stretch your legs a little. At the glacier tongue of Heinabergjökull is the perfect place for this. We pulled the boats onto the ice for a bit and then the crampons came into play. I was really impressed by my new Icelandic outfit: dry suit, rubber boots, crampons and sunglasses! What a combination!

We walked up the glacier tongue, always following our guide. The surface of the glacier looked like compressed caipirinha ice. There were small rivulets, crevasses and holes in the ground and I was happy about the crampons on my rubber boots, which gave me a non-slip step. From a small rise we had a wonderful view to the glacier and over the lagoon.

What else can I do after the Kayak Tour in the Southeast of Iceland?

The Flatey Farm, the meeting point for the kayak tour on the ice lagoon, is one of the biggest dairy farms in Iceland. Visitors have the opportunity to take a look inside the farm . A restaurant also serves traditional Icelandic dishes. Unfortunately everything was closed during my stay because of Covid-19.

If you are already so close to the town of Höfn, I recommend a visit to the Vestrahorn east of Höfn. Vestrahorn is a 454 meter high mountain with many peaks. A great photo motif. Plan for a visit at least two hours, but I would like to stay longer, because there are very nice hiking trails and a lovely Viking café.

Towards the west it is worth visiting the famous ice lagoon Jökulsárlón and Diamond Beach. Maybe you would like to take a Zodiac between the icebergs to the edge of the glacier again?

Book Recommendations for Iceland

Do you want to know where the journey is going? Then I can recommend this travel guides* to you.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. This does not make the product more expensive for you.

Have you ever done a kayak tour in Iceland yourself? Where was that and how did you like it? Do you have any questions or suggestions about my article? If so, please write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love the Scandinavian countries as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about the Kayak Tour in the Swedish Archipelago or a Trekking Tour to the Greenlandic Ice Sheet.

Der Beitrag Kajaktour auf der Gletscherlagune Heinabergslón in Island erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links.

How are Ice Caves formed?
Transient Beauties of Ice
The Katla Volcano and the Katla Eruptions
Visit of the Katla Ice Cave at the Glacier Kötlujökull
Inside the Katla Ice Cave - Entrance to a Fairytale World
Conclusion about my Tour to the Katla Ice Cave in the South of Iceland
What Equipment do I need to bring for the Katla Ice Cave?
Season for Ice Caves in Iceland and Safety

How are Ice Caves formed?

Ice caves - or more precisely, glacial caves - are formed by meltwater. Summer temperatures or geothermal heat cause the glacier's ice to melt. The meltwater then makes its way through crevasses inside the glacier, melting more ice. Trickles, streams, puddles or even lakes are formed. As the glaciers move, the streams and lakes within a glacier change constantly. This can suddenly result in a run-off and all the water disappears. What remains is an empty glacial cave. Each of them is unique and looks different.

Transient Beauties of Ice

The ice formations of the cave are in constant change, their beauty is ephemeral. Thus an ice cave can thaw, become unstable and even collapse in spring and summer. At other places new ice caves develop. The frost of winter makes them harden again. Most ice caves are therefore only accessible in winter. At Katla Volcano there is the only ice cave that is accessible all year round. So I was very surprised when I learned in the morning of the tour that Iceland's famous Katla ice cave collapsed a few days ago. For six years it has fascinated many visitors with its beauty. But the unusually warm weather in July 2020 has also melted her ice.

But our tour operator already had plan B ready. Not far from the collapsed Katla ice cave there is another cave. It was explored and secured in the days before, ropes were attached, steps were made and boards were laid over the glacial stream inside the cave. It was a bit smaller and narrower, but for me it was the most beautiful ice cave in the world - the first one I visited and therefore especially impressive.

The Katla Volcano and the Katla Eruptions

Katla volcano is located in the south of Iceland, hidden under the fourth largest glacier on the island - Mýrdalsjökull. Katla has erupted about twenty times in the last 1,000 years and is one of the most active volcanoes in the country. The last major eruption was in 1918. The magma chamber of the Katla is located at a depth of 2 to 3 kilometres and is said to have a capacity of 10 to 12 cubic kilometres.

If a volcano lies under a glacier, then so-called glacier runs are formed during an eruption. Hot magma melts the glacier ice and steam explosions occur. The glacier runs transport gravel and ash towards the sea, the beach becomes wider. At the time of the settlement, the beach is said to have been about 5 kilometres further inland. Wow, what forces of nature!

The Katla eruptions are among the most explosive in Iceland. For this reason the volcano is monitored especially intensively. Not only earth movements are measured, but rivers are also examined for changes in mineral content, gas content and electrical conductivity.

Visit of the Katla Ice Cave at the Glacier Kötlujökull

The starting point for the tour to the Katla Ice Cave in the south of Iceland is the parking lot behind the outdoor shop in Vík. The super jeep waiting for me here is hard to miss. It is a former airport bus, which was rebuilt for the tours. The 36inch tyres leave no doubt that the vehicle could take us to any destination. By the way, it is also used in winter, but then with even bigger tyres.

As soon as we have left the ring road in the direction of Katla, we pass through a rugged moonscape of pitch-black sand, stones and green moss. Far in the distance I can already see the ice cap of Myrdalsjokull.

Our driver adjusts the air pressure in the tyres again and again, so the tyres have a better grip: less air when it gets sandy and more air when the road is rocky. With such a super jeep, the ride on the track becomes a pleasant swing. After about 40 minutes of driving we reach a small parking lot. Around us a spectacular scenery opens up: black sand, behind it the glacier and a glacier river whose arms dig through the sand.

Everyone gets crampons and a helmet. Then we continue on foot to the black glacier Kötlujökull, a part of the Myrdalsjokull. We walk through sand, cross several creeks on previously laid out boards and stepping stones. As soon as we hit the ice, we put our crampons over our shoes. I would not have recognized the ice at all, because it is hidden under a black layer of sand. After about ten minutes we are already at the entrance to the glacier cave and put on our helmets. A safety briefing follows and we are divided into three smaller groups - the new cave is simply a bit tighter than the old one. After our guide has checked the cave once more for safety, we start. And we dive into a world for which it is difficult to find words. I have never seen anything comparable. It looks like the entrance to a fairy tale world.

Guided Tours in Iceland

You don't feel like wandering around on your own and would rather join a guided tour in Iceland? Nothing could be easier. If you book an excursion via the following affiliate links, you will support Wanderlust Motifs with a small commission. The tour will not be more expensive for you. Merci!

Inside the Katla Ice Cave - Entrance to a Fairytale World

The ice cave is narrow and in its middle a stream flows in a number of curves. We can only walk along the small edges and take care not to slip. The guides have previously cut steps into the ice and attached ropes to grab on. We have to cross the creek several times. Narrow planks were laid out for this.

From above it drips. The meltwater flows down from the roof of the ice cave in several small waterfalls. I look up skeptically - is the ice roof of the cave still thick enough? In the spray of the waterfall at the entrance to the cave a small rainbow welcomes us. After that a black-blue ice tunnel opens up with beautiful shiny ice formations. We go further into the cave, which is surprisingly high in the back part. Unfortunately, we soon cannot go any further, because the cave is not yet well explored and it is not clear if it is stable enough.

The ice shows itself in shades of blue, white, grey and black. Sometimes it is almost transparent, then again milky cloudy. The ice appears blue when it has few air bubbles. Air inclusions make the ice look milky. Some walls have strange wave-like structures and look like a water surface. In addition, there are various shapes, angles, curves and mini-caves in the ice walls. The ash from earlier volcanic eruptions of the Katla is enclosed by the ice and colours it black. In some places the ash has even drawn patterns into the ice.

Conclusion about my Tour to the Katla Ice Cave in the South of Iceland

Iceland's ice caves are among the most extraordinary natural experiences you can find in Iceland. You are standing in the middle of a glacier, surrounded by ice. An ice cave is always special and unique, because its beauty is transient. Even if the cave we visited was "only" Plan B, the visit was definitely worthwhile. Next time I am in Iceland I will come back here. I can highly recommend this tour to you, because it gives you insights into a strange mystical world, which is usually not open to one.

I have booked the Tour to the Katla Ice Cave at Extreme Iceland. The approximately three-hour tour costs 107 Euro per person. A pick up from Reykjavik is also offered.

What Equipment do I need to bring for the Katla Ice Cave?

An ice cave is wet. It drips from above and sometimes even small waterfalls come down. So a rain jacket and soft shell or rain trousers are part of the cave outfit. You should also wear something warm underneath and bring a cap and gloves. For a safe step on the ice you will be equipped with light crampons. You can simply put them over your shoes. You should wear sturdy ankle-high hiking boots, which are also as waterproof as possible. In addition to the crampons, each visitor will also be given a helmet.

Season for Ice Caves in Iceland and Safety

The season for ice caves is winter. It begins in November as soon as frost provides sufficient stability for the caves and usually ends in March.

The only ice cave that could be visited all year round has always been the Katla ice cave in the south of Iceland. It is located in the Kötlujökull glacier, a part of the Mýrdalsjökull glacier. However, due to the warm temperatures in July 2020 it collapsed after six years. But there are more ice caves at Kötlujökull and so another ice cave was quickly found in July which could be visited. It remains to be seen how the ice caves will develop here now and if the summer tours can still be offered.

Important: since an ice cave can become unstable and collapse, you should never enter an ice cave without an experienced guide.

Book Recommendations for Iceland

Do you want to know where the journey is going? Then I can recommend this travel guides* to you.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. This does not make the product more expensive for you.

Do you know one of the ice caves at Katla Volcano in Iceland? How did you like it? Do you have any questions or suggestions regarding my article? If so, please write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Recommendations for further Reading

Do you love the Scandinavian countries as much as I do? Then you might also be interested in my articles about the Kayak Tour in the Swedish Archipelago or a Trekking Tour to the Greenlandic Ice Sheet.

Der Beitrag Katla-Eishöhle in Island – Eingang zu einer Märchenwelt erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

The article contains affiliate links. If you order the product through the link, I get a small commission. There are no additional costs for you.

Buchtipps zur Arktis

Meine Buchempfehlungen zur Arktis umfassen die Länder Grönland, Spitzbergen, Russland, Kanada, Alaska, Island sowie die Arktis allgemein. Es sind die Abenteuer und Expeditionen der früheren Polarforscher und Jäger, Berichte heutiger Abenteuer, Reisen mit Hundeschlitten oder Duchquerungen der Nord-West-Passage mit dem Segelboot oder russischen Eisbrecher. Am Ende des Kapitels habe ich auch außerdem eine Auswahl von Reiseführern zusammengestellt.

Die Beschreibungen habe ich mitunter von den Buchrücken übernommen.

A Woman in the Polar Night by Christiane Ritter

SPITZBERGEN. “Die Arktis ist die Zone der Welt, wo der Himmel die Erde berührt. Nicht jeder erträgt das große Licht, nicht jeder die Finsternis, nicht jeder die große Einsamkeit. Ich hatte die große Gnade, gleich am Anfang meines Abenteuers, und dies alleine, mitten hineingeschleudert zu werden in die Unerbittlichkeit der wilden Natur und erhielt meine Feuertaufe.”

Im eisigen Spitzbergen, viele hundert Kilometer von der nächsten Siedlung entfernt und ohne technische Hilfsmittel moderner Arktisexpeditionen, haben sich Christiane Ritter und ihr Mann einen Traum erfüllt. Sie lebten 1934 ein Jahr lang zusammen mit einem Pelzjäger in einer primitiven Hütte. Christiane Ritters Erlebnisbericht vermittelt eine Ahnung von der Faszination der Arktis. Mein absolutes Lieblingsbuch und Top Buchtipp über Spitzbergen!

Kälte, Wind und Freiheit: Wie die Inuit mich den Sinn des Lebens lehrten von Robert Peroni

GRÖNLAND. Eine Grönland-Durchquerung in den Achtzigerjahren wird zum Wendepunkt im Leben von Robert Peroni. Tief beeindruckt von der Schönheit der Natur und der Freundlichkeit der Inuit, beschließt der Abenteurer und Profibergsteiger, in einem 2000-Seelen-Dorf an der wilden Südostküste Grönlands zu bleiben. Er dringt ein in die ursprüngliche und geheimnisvolle Welt des Robbenjägervolks und erfährt, wonach er trotz aller Erfolge und Rekorde bislang vergeblich gesucht hatte: Glück und Zufriedenheit. Liebevoll und fesselnd erzählt Robert Peroni vom Alltag der Inuit und ruft uns eindrücklich in Erinnerung, wie bedroht ihr traditionelles Leben zunehmend ist.

Ich habe alle Bücher von Robert Peroni gelesen. Dieses hier ist sein aktuellstes und es liest sich wie eine Liebeserklärung an Grönland. Im Februar/März 2015 habe ich drei Wochen in Roberts Gasthaus “The Red House” in Tasiilaq verbracht. Es war noch vor Saisonbeginn, daher waren wir nur sechs Gäste. Während dieser Zeit habe ich immer wieder gespürt wieviel Liebe und Leidenschaft er für das Land in sich trägt. Kälte, Wind und Freiheit ist auf jeden Fall eine unverzichtbare Reiselektüre für alle, die nach Ostgrönland fahren wollen und eines meiner Lieblingsbücher zur Arktis.

Eisgesang: Meine Reise durch die Nordwestpassage von Kathleen Winter

KANADA / ALASKA. Dieses Buch ist eine Hommage an die Magie des ewigen Eises und die einzigartige Welt der Arktis.

»Ich hatte das Gefühl, an den Ort zu fahren, wo sich eine imaginäre Welt mit der wirklichen überschneidet: ein Ort, an dem die Zeit anders vergeht. Der Name ›Nordwestpassage‹ ist auf alten Weltkarten nicht verzeichnet: Es ist eher eine Vorstellung als ein Ort. Diese Vorstellung zog mich schon lange an, mit einer Macht, die ich nicht begreifen konnte.«

Auf der Fahrt an Bord eines russischen Eisbrechers durch die legendäre Nordwestpassage erlebt die kanadische Journalistin Kathleen Winter hautnah, wie fragil und gefährdet die Welt der Arktis ist. In wunderbaren Bildern schildert sie ihre Begegnungen mit dieser großartigen Landschaft und ihren Bewohnern. Winters eindringlicher Reisebericht ist zugleich die Geschichte ihrer persönlichen Lebensreise, eine Geschichte vom Verlieren und Finden, vom Suchen und vom bei sich selbst Ankommen. Es ist ein Buch, das man anfängt und nicht mehr weglegen möchte. Und schlimmer noch: es verstärkt den Wunsch, selber einmal im Leben, die Nordwestpassage durchqueren zu wollen.

Polar Wives: The Remarkable Women behind the World's Most Daring Explorers

ALLGEMEIN ARKTIS & ANTARKTIS. Shackleton, Franklin, Scott – jeder kennt die Namen der großen Polarforscher und deren Abenteuer. Doch wenig ist bekannt über die Frauen an ihrer Seite, denen die Polarhelden ihren Ruhm – und oft auch ihr Überleben – verdanken. Kari Herbert, die in Grönland aufgewachsene Tochter des britischen Polarforschers Sir Wally Herbert, hat jahrelang recherchiert und bisher ungesichtete Aufzeichnungen, Tagebücher und Briefe der Polarfrauen und ihrer Männer studiert. Mit ihren einfühlsam und fesselnd erzählten Lebensbildern von Jo Peary, Kathleen Scott, Emily Shackleton, Marie Herbert, Eleanor Anne und Jane Franklin rückt sie 200 Jahre Polargeschichte in ein neues Licht. Denn auch die Frauen der Polarhelden waren große Heldinnen, jede auf ihre eigene Art und Weise.

Der weiße Horizont. Drei Männer durchqueren Grönlands unerforschte Eiswüste von Robert Peroni

GRÖNLAND. Zu Fuß, ohne Schlittenhunde, technische Hilfsmittel und Versorgungsdepots durchqueren drei Südtiroler Bergsteiger 1400 Kilometer grönländische Eiswüste. Sie bewältigen dabei in knapp drei Monaten eine Strecke, für welche die legendäre Wegener / Koch Expedition mit Pferden volle zwei Jahre gebraucht hatte. Als die drei arktischen Wanderer dann nach 88 Tagen und schier unvorstellbaren Strapazen ihr Ziel erreichten, hatten sie neue Maßstäbe für die Grenzen menschlicher Leistungsfähigkeit gesetzt. Denn eine Leistung von mehr als 500 km unter diesen Bedingeungen galt bis dahin als unmöglich. Ein Abenteuer, das Grönlands Polizeiminister verboten hätte, wenn er rechtzeitig davon informiert gewesen wäre.

Übrigens: wenn ihr selber mal einen Fuß auf das Inlandeis von Grönland setzen wollt, dann schaut euch meinen Artikel über unsere Hiking Tour vom Eqi-Gletscher bis zum Inlandeis .

Spielplatz der Helden von Michael Köhlmeier

GRÖNLAND. Der Roman über ein spektakuläres Grönland Abenteuer. Drei Südtiroler durchquerten 1983 als erste Menschen Grönland ohne Schlittenhunde und externe Hilfsmittel. Die spektakuläre Durchquerung wird in Köhlmeiers Roman zu einem aberwitzigen Psychodrama, da vom ersten Tag an Streit zwischen den drei Bergsteigern herrscht. Obwohl so zerstritten, dass zwei von ihnen während der 88 Tage kein Wort miteinander wechseln, bewältigen sie die zuvor nicht für möglich gehaltene Route.

Michael Köhlmeier erzählt hier die Geschichte des Buches “Der weiße Horizont” von Robert Peroni aus drei verschiedenen Perspektiven. Grade wenn ihr beide Bücher lest, ist es sehr faszinierend zu erkennen, wie unterschiedlich die drei Männer die Expedition wahrgenommen haben.

Nordwestpassage für dreizehn Arglose und einen Joghurt von Tina Uebel

KANADA / ALASKA. Landschaften von grandioser Leere, sturmgefegte See, brachiales Eis – noch ist die Nordwestpassage ein Abenteuer, strapaziös und wundersam zugleich. Zumindest auf einem Segelboot. Im Sommer 2011 hat sich Kapitän Wolf Kloss mit seiner Santa Maria Australis dieser Herausforderung gestellt, und die Schriftstellerin Tina Uebel ist für drei Monate mitgesegelt. Wo endet die Welt, und wie weit kann man gehen, um an ihren Rändern zu kratzen, hat sie noch Ränder? Und was ist es, das einen dorthin treibt?

Tina Übel berichtet in einer sehr unterhaltsamen Art und Weise über eine der größten Reisen, die ich mir vorstellen kann. Grade für alle, die selber gerne Segeln ist das Buch einer meiner liebsten Buchtipps zur Arktis.

Die letzten Könige von Thule. Leben mit den Eskimos von Jean Malaurie

Malaurie teilte 14 Monate lang das Leben der 300 Polareskimos von Thule. Er ging dabei mit ihnen auf die Jagd und legte zusammen mit zwei Eskimos und deren Frauen mehr als 1500 Kilometer auf dem Polareis und den Gletschern Grönlands zurück. Sehr plastisch schildert er den Alltag seiner Gastgeber, ihre wirtschaftliche und gesellschaftliche Organisation, ihre Jagden auf Seehunde, Walrosse und Eisbären. Außerdem erläutert er ihre Familienstruktur und Sexualität, ihre Überlebenstechniken, ihre Träume und ihre Legenden, die sie sich während der Polarnacht erzählen. Das Buch ist ein absolutes Muss für jeden, der die grönländische Kultur etwas tiefergehens verstehen möchte.

Auf Schneeschuhen durch Grönland: 1888-1889 von Fridjof Nansen

GRÖNLAND. Was befindet sich im Inneren Grönlands? Gibt es dort wirklich ‘grünes Land’, oder ist sie von einer Wüste aus Eis, Schnee und Felsen bedeckt? Bis zum Jahr 1888 blieben diese Fragen unbeantwortet, die größte Insel der Erde war nur an der Küste besiedelt. Zwar hatte Adolf Erik Nordenskiöld und Robert Edwin Peary erste Vorstöße ins Innere unternommen. Doch die Durchquerung der Terra incognita blieb einem bis dahin gänzlich unbekannten Abenteurer vorbehalten: Fridtjof Nansen. Im Mai 1888 fuhren er und sein Gefährte Otto Sverdrup mit einem Robbenfänger von Island aus nach Norden. Vor der Ostküste Grönlands ließen sich die Männer auf einer Eisscholle absetzen – und schon drohte die Expedition zu scheitern, bevor sie richtig begonnen hatte. Denn die Abenteurer wurden fast fünfhundert Kilometer weit nach Süden abgetrieben, ehe es ihnen gelang, das Festland zu erreichen. Im August begann ihr Marsch ins Unbekannte, doch von ‘Grünland’ keine Spur.

Unter Jägern und Schamanen: Tagebuch der Thule-Fahrt. Reisebericht von Knut Rasmussen

GRÖNLAND. 1921: Knud Rasmussen will zusammen mit einer Gruppe von Wissenschaftlern die bislang unerforschten Regionen Nordkanadas kartografieren – vor allem aber will er den Menschen begegnen und ihre Mythen und Geschichten aufzeichnen. Über ein Jahr lang besucht er verschiedene Inuit-Gemeinschaften und macht die Bekanntschaft mit dem großen Schamanen Awwa und dessen Familie. Awwa ist der letzte der Schamanen, denn auch die christlichen Missionare sind bis hoch in den Norden vorgedrungen. Das Leben der Inuit steht vor dem großen Umbruch.

Ab 1923 führt Knud Rasmussens große Forschungsreise entlang der legendären, fast 6000 Kilometer langen Nordwestpassage bis zur Beringstraße. Mit nur einem Hundeschlitten unterwegs, ist die dreiköpfige Expeditionsgemeinschaft in diesem Abenteuer ganz auf sich gestellt.

Das Schneekind von Nicolas Vanier

KANADA & ALASKA. Die Geschichte von der Erfüllung eines Lebenstraums und Abenteuers: Der weltberühmte Abenteurer Nicolas Vanier zieht mit seiner Frau Diane und der kleinen Tochter Montaine für ein Jahr in die Wildnis von Kanada und Alaska. Sie bauen sich ein Blockhaus und ernähren sich wie die Menschen früherer Zeiten: vom Jagen, Fischen und Sammeln. Es ist ein Leben im Einklang mit der gewaltigen Natur des hohen Nordens, voller Einfachheit, Klarheit und Poesie.

Iditarod von Gary Paulsen

ALASKA. Das Iditarod ist das längste Hundeschlittenrennen der Welt. Es führt über mehr als 1850 Kilometer durch die kaum berührte Natur von Alaska. Seit 1973 wird auf Teilen der historischen Strecke des Iditarod Trails, von Anchorage nach Nome, alljährlich im März das Hunderennen ausgetragen. Eindrucksvoll beschreibt Gary Paulsen, wie er sich auf das härteste Rennen der Welt vorbereitet. Er macht dabei jeden erdenklichen Anfängerfehler und paart diese mit gelungener Selbstironie. Es ist eine Geschichte über Menschen, Hunde und die Entwicklung einer ganz außergewöhnlichen Beziehung zwischen ihnen. Ein tolles Abenteuer, ich habe viel gelacht und dabei viel über Hundeschlitten gelernt. Dieses Buch ist eines von denen, die man einfach so verschlingt.

Birds of North America and Greenland

Die Nearctic-Region, die sich über den größten Teil Nordamerikas erstreckt, einschließlich Kanada und Grönland, beherbergt eine unglaublich reiche Vielfalt an Vogelarten. Das Bestimmungsbuch Birds of North America und Greenland deckt mehr als 900 Vogelarten ab und ist dennoch prägnant, kompakt und benutzerfreundlich. Alle Arten werden knapp beschrieben und die wichtigsten Merkmale zur Identifikation sind aufgelistet. Insgesamt 102 Farbtafeln zeigen die verschiedenen Gefiedertypen.

DuMont Reise-Taschenbuch Reiseführer Grönland von Sabine Barth

GRÖNLAND. Das Interesse an den Polarregionen hat in den letzten Jahren stark zugenommen, immer häufiger wird Grönland, die größte Insel der Welt, Ziel von Urlaubsreisen. Besonders im Fokus stehen Grönlands Riesengletscher, die an den Rändern des kilometerdicken Inlandeisschildes unter berstendem Krachen ins Eismeer kalben. Scheinbar schwerelos treiben die dabei losgelösten haushohen Eisberge beispielsweise durch den Kangia-Fjord aufs offene Meer. Sabine Barth erklärt, wie und wo man dem Eis besonders nahe kommt und wie man die kalte Insel auch individuell bereisen kann. Ein besonderes Plus des Reiseführers sind mehrere Aktivtouren, wie z. B. eine Wanderung auf den Berg Ukkusissat, mit Wanderbeschreibungen und Detailkarten.

Buchtipps zur Antarktis

Hier findet ihr meine Buchempfehlungen zur Antarktis. Das sind beispielsweise die Berichte der großen Antarktis Expeditionen von Shakleton, Amundsen und Scott. Darüber hinaus habe ich noch einige Bücher von Abenteurern unserer Zeit sowie Bestimmungsbücher und Reiseführer, die ich euch empfehlen kann.

635 Tage im Eis: Die Shackleton-Expedition von Alfred Lansing

Am Anfang steht der Plan von der erstmaligen Durchquerung des weißen Kontinents. Doch das gewaltige Naturwunder Antarktis wird im Jahr 1915 für die Crew der ‘Endurance’ zur Hölle aus Eis. Beharrlich verfolgt Expeditionsleiter Sir Ernest Shackleton bald nur noch ein Ziel: 28 Männer lebend wieder in die Zivilisation zurückzubringen.

Lansing hat hier eines meiner Lieblingsbücher zur Antarktis geschrieben. Ich liebe die Geschichte der Shackleton-Expedition und lese daher alles, was mir dazu in die Finger kommt. Shackleton ist in meinen Augen der heldenhafteste aller Polarforscher. Keiner seiner Mannschaft ist bei der Expedition ums Leben gekommen. Sein Kampf um das Überleben aller, seine klugen Entscheidungen und Gespür für Dynamiken im Team beeindrucken mich immer wieder. Und immer, wenn ich vor einer schweren Herausforderung stehe, denke ich an Shackleton und seine Mannschaft – das macht mir Mut und meine eigene kleine Herausforderung fällt mir dann plötzlich viel leichter.

Gestrandet in der weißen Hölle von Heide Wilts

Ein Klassiker der Segelliteratur. Es ist schon einige Jahre her, dennoch ist die Strandung von Heide und Erich Wilts mit ihrer 15-m-Yacht FREYDIS in der Antarktis immer noch tief im kollektiven Seglergedächtnis verankert. Jetzt, wo die FREYDIS dem Tsunami vor Fukushima endgültig zum Opfer gefallen ist, erinnert man sich wieder: Wie die FREYDIS in der Antarktis scheiterte und damit für Heide Wilts und ihren Mann Erich der Kampf ums Überleben begann. Ein Kampf, der sechs Monate dauern sollte und in diesem Buch ungeheuer packend geschildert wird. Ein Klassiker der Segelliteratur, spannend von der ersten bis zur letzten Seite, ein Bericht über große physische und psychische Kraft, ein authentisches Abenteuer.

Wollt ihr sehen, wie es auf Deception Island aussieht? Dann schaut euch meinen Artikel an.

Die S.E.A.-Expedition – Eine antarktische Reise auf Shackletons Spuren von Tina Uebel und Nikolaus Hansen

Im Bann eines der größten Polarforscher aller Zeiten: Ein Jahrhundert nach Ernest Shackleton folgt die Expedition »S.E.A. – Sir Ernest’s Anniversary« seinem Weg nach dem Untergang der Endurance im Weddellmeer. Dafür brechen zehn Männer und zwei Frauen Ende 2015 zu einem Segeltörn über den wildesten Ozean der Welt auf. Unter schwierigsten Bedingungen gelangen sie von den Falklandinseln über Elephant Island bis nach Südgeorgien, wo ein Teil des Teams auf Skiern die dramatische Gletscherlandschaft überquert. Die Crewmitglieder Nikolaus Hansen und Tina Uebel halten das gewagte Unterfangen in einem mitreißenden Bericht fest, ergänzt durch einzigartige Aufnahmen unberührter Eislandschaften. Dabei zeichnen sie den Verlauf von Shackletons Rettungsaktion nach und zeigen, weshalb sie die Menschen bis heute fasziniert.

Antarktis (Reisehandbuch) von Christian Walther

Dieses ReiseHandbuch wendet sich an alle, die mehr über den Kontinent am Südpol erfahren möchten, darunter auch die, die konkret eine Reise in die Antarktis planen. Der erste Buchteil enthält umfassende landeskundliche Informationen zur Antarktis: Entdeckungsgeschichte, Geowissenschaften, Klima, Ozonproblematik, Eis, Forschung, Tourismus, Flora, Fauna u.v.a. werden mit Bildern, Tabellen und Zeichnungen veranschaulicht. Eine realistische Möglichkeit, den entlegenen und extremen Kontinent zu bereisen, stellen organisierte Kreuzfahrten dar. Im zweiten Teil des Buches beschreibt der Autor über 60 Orte in der Antarktis, auf den Südshetland-, Südorkney- und Falklandinseln, in Südgeorgien und Südamerika, die wegen ihrer landschaftlichen Einmaligkeit von den Kreuzfahrtschiffen bevorzugt angelaufen werden oder auf der Anfahrtsroute liegen. Der dritte Teil informiert den Leser in den Reise-Infos von A bis Z über alle praktischen Fragen zur Vorbereitung und Durchführung einer Antarktisreise und beendet mit kommentierten Literaturempfehlungen, den gehaltvollen, mit einer Vielzahl von farbigen Abbildungen, hervorragenden Karten und anschaulichen Skizzen ausgestatteten Band.

Welches sind eure Lieblingsbücher über die Arktis oder Antarktis? Habt ihr noch ein paar Ergänzungen für meine Liste? Wenn ja, dann schreibt mir doch einen Kommentar!

Der Beitrag Polarliteratur – Buchttipps zur Arktis und Antarktis erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Table of Contents and Quick Navigation

Overview of my Antarctic Articles
Prologue - picture book Antarctica Antarctica
When does a journey begin?
What do you want in Antarctica?
A cruise? - Never!
And what does it all cost?
When is the right time?
Our Itinerary - Penguin Colonies, Views and Insights
Tips for shore excursions in Antarctica
Packing list for the Antarctic trip
Tips for photographers
Travel literature

Advertising, unsolicited. The article contains affiliate links*.

Overview of my Antarctic Articles

Port Lockroy - the southernmost Museum and Postal Station in the World
Neumayerkanal - A dream comes true
Brown Bluff - Penguins at the Table Volcano
Deception Island - Lost Place in Antarctica
Penguins - Tips for great penguin photos
Polar Literature - Favourite Books of the Arctic and Antarctic

Prologue - picture book Antarctica

When I saw the ice landscapes of Antarctica, I thought I was in the middle of one of these impressive nature documentaries. It was one of those documentaries that fascinated me again and again and made my desire to travel to Antarctica more and more urgent. At that moment I stared at the ice with tears of joy in my eyes. What did I feel at that moment? Difficult to put into words, but I would describe it as a mixture of awe and wishless happiness in the here and now.

Many thanks to the team of G-Expeditions and to all fellow travellers who made the trip so unique and unforgettable.

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When does a journey begin?

For years I have dreamed of a trip to Antarctica and I knew that sooner or later I would go to Antarctica. Exactly. Sooner or later. This trip had become a dream and made me comfortable in the far distance. And with every year that passed, my dream moved one more year into the future. But I should know better: That you can't put off dreams that are important to you.

Frank Wild is the name of Shakleton's closest confidant during the Endurance Expedition. "Wild" is the title of Reinhold Messner's lecture to which friends took me. I enjoyed the story of the Shakleton expedition, which I love so much, the pictures of the Antarctic, the leafing through the travel brochures and the whole atmosphere of the event. Three days later I had booked the last place on the converted Swedish ferry MS-Expedition. Along the Antarctic peninsula the journey should go up to the southern polar circle depending upon ice conditions. Three weeks after my booking the planned departure of the expedition to the Antarctic Circle was G-Expedition. And for the whole three weeks I had a tingling sensation in my stomach, as if I was freshly in love.

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What do you want in Antarctica?

Many of my friends and colleagues asked me why I travel to Antarctica. It would be cold there and there would only be ice and snow. "That's exactly why" I replied and finally started to describe Antarctica and to rave about ice, snow and everything else there is.

The vastness and the emptiness of the landscape are one thing. Uncompromising, wild and inaccessible. Only a few visible traces of man can be found. The variety of forms of the landscape and the in some places overbrooding animal life are the other. And then, of course, there is the spirit of adventure. Awakened and fanned up by all the reports about the expeditions of Amundsens, Scott and Shakleton.

After the trip I showed my colleagues my photos from Antarctica. Now nobody asked why I went to Antarctica anymore. As a passionate photographer, I was naturally absorbed in observing and photographing nature. Icebergs, penguins, whales, light and shadow held me captive at the moment. Photography and mindfulness combined and made me feel the uniqueness of Antarctica even deeper.

But what else is there? Does the Antarctic leave traces in us? What's behind the advertising slogan that repeatedly attracted my attention in the lounge of the MS Expedition?

“Life changing Journeys.”

from the lounge of the MS Expedition

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A cruise? - Never!

Most Antarctic travellers will explore Antarctica by ship. But is a cruise the right thing for me? As a seasoned individual traveller, I had a hard time at the beginning with the idea of boarding a cruise ship. If you feel similar, I can reassure you. The ships and tours to Antarctica are something completely different than an Aida cruise in the Mediterranean. After all, they also call themselves expedition cruises. A small but fine difference in the name and a big difference for the traveller.

The most important of my travel tips for Antarctica first: First choose a suitable ship size. There are different categories here:

• Sailboats with about 8-12 passengers. For this you should bring good sailing experience and be washed with all waters. Everybody will be involved and will also be assigned for night watches. The costs are not necessarily more expensive than on the big ships.
• Approx. 50 passengers - a nice size, familiar but relatively expensive
• About 130 passengers - from my point of view a good size. Small enough so that all passengers can go to shore leave and Zodiac trips at the same time. Big enough to have some rest and time alone. The MS Expedition holds 134 passengers.
• Approx. 300 passengers - there are waiting times. Shore excursions are usually limited to 100 people at a time. When the last group has arrived, the weather can already have changed.
• Approx. 1000 passengers - They often do not offer any landings at all. Antarctica becomes a mere backdrop for the traveller. Moreover, ships are no longer so manoeuvrable and cannot sail everywhere.

Schedules at least one buffer day before the trip. In case of flight delays you are on the safe side. Ushuaia has a lot to offer. Tips for a stopover in Ushuaia can be found here.

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And what does it all cost?

A price comparison is worth it. Early bookers and last minute travellers can save money. But you will also often find several agencies that offer the same trip at the same time, but have different prices. Depending on the type of trip, duration and cabin category, the prices for the cruise range from around 5,000 euros to 25,000 euros. In addition then still the costs come for the flight, for additional days before or after the journey as well as for alcoholic beverages on board and tips.

For last-minute travellers there are various travel agencies in Ushuaia that offer remaining seats. You will find many suppliers in the main shopping street Av. San Martín. To what extent these are really cheaper I have not checked.

You don't have to buy all the equipment or have it with you (if you are travelling longer in South America and Antarctica is only one stage on a longer journey). You can rent missing equipment in Ushuaia.

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When is the right time?

Travelling to Antarctica is offered during the Antarctic summer, i.e. from November to February. When is the right time for a trip to Antarctica, however, depends on which nature experience is most important to you: Do you want to see penguin chicks? Or would you rather see young seals? Would you rather have lots of ice? Or rather many whales? The choice of the right travel period can be decisive for the fulfilment of your desired nature experience.

November: a trip in early summer is impressive. The sea is still covered with ice and the coasts are snow-covered. The feeling of being in Antarctica is strongest in early summer. However, due to the ice, not all planned landings may be possible and the itinerary is strongly dependent on ice and weather. The penguins come to their colonies and start building nests. The seals have already given birth to their young in Antarctic spring: the Weddel and Krabbenffresser seals are born on the ice in September/October. Between September and January, the only young of the leopard seals is born on the pack ice. The young elephant seals are born in August/September.

December to January: midsummer is the most pleasant time to travel, as it is relatively warm for Antarctica and the weather is more stable. The sun shines almost around the clock. The first penguin chicks hatch at the end of December.

February to March: late summer is the best time for whale watching. The ice has largely retreated and Zodiac landings are now possible further south. The penguin colonies empty slowly, because the penguin chicks become fledged. They are easy prey and attract predators (orcas). Also many fur seals appear now also at the Antarctic peninsula. The Antarctic season is already over in mid-March and the Antarctic winter begins.

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Expedition to the Antarctic Circle - our itinerary

"We've got a young elephant seal changing coat at the landing site. He has made himself comfortable on our emergency equipment." Our guide prepared us for our first shore leave. It was Christmas, the 24.12.2018. I felt like in a dream and was on my way to believe in Santa Claus again. Already during the trip with the Zodiac we were accompanied by penguins, which swam elegantly like mini dolphins beside our boat. Their plumage was covered with a film of water and shone in the sun. At the landing we were greeted by curious donkey penguins. A short briefing by our guides followed, the Do's and Dont's were repeated again and then I made my first steps on Antarctic soil. I will never forget this moment.

All Zodiac trips during the Antarctic Tour are weather dependent. In the travel description it was even explicitly mentioned and only "possible" landing places were described. In abbreviated form this means "journey with expedition character". We were very lucky with the weather and were able to make a total of 14 landings on seven days. On the way to the Antarctic Circle we visited bays, penguin colonies, viewpoints and research stations. In addition, Zodiac excursions between the icebergs were offered.

Our landing sites were:

1. Cuverville Island in the Errera Channel: large colony of gentoo penguins with about 5,000 breeding pairs, viewpoint
2. Base Brown in Paradise Harbour: Argentinean research station, viewpoint, gentoo penguins, blue-eyed scabbards
3. Antarctic Circle: Sparkling wine at the southern polar circle at 66°33'44'' south latitude.
4. Damoy Point, Wiencke Island: Gentoo penguins - the first chicks
5. Goudier Island (Port Lockroy Base A), Jougla Point: Gentoo penguins with chicks, research station, museum and post office. Click here to read the article.
6. Damoy Point: Gentoo penguins with chicks
7. Gerlache Strait and Neumayer Canal: lots of ice, whales, breathtaking scenery. Click here to read the article.
8. Neko Harbour, Anovord Bay: approx. 500 breeding pairs of gentoo penguins with chicks, remains of an Argentine shelter, Weddel seals.
9. Curtis Bay: icebergs, glaciers
10. Mikkelsen Harbour, Trinity Island: Gentoo penguins with chicks
11. Kinnes Cove, Joinville Island: Zodiac Cruise without Landing, Adelie Penguins
12. Brown Bluff: Adelie penguins with chicks, gentoo penguins with chicks, volcanic landscape. Click here to read the article.
13. Half Moon Island, South Shetlands: Chinstrap Penguins with Chicks
14. Whalers Bay, Deception Island: Viewpoint "The Nipple", Lost Place Whaling Station, Volcanic Landscape. Click here to read the article..
15. Drake Passage + Beagle Channel: Bird- and Whalewatching

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Best tips for shore excursions in Antarctica

Every shore leave in Antarctica is unique and exciting. So that you can enjoy each and every one of them, I have compiled my best tips for your shore excursions in Antarctica:

What do I wear?

• Better to dress too warm than too cold (onion skin principle). The weather in Antarctica can change at any time.
• At many landing sites you can climb up to viewpoints - it quickly gets too warm. Take off your clothes before you sweat.
• Be prepared to stand for long periods of time as you watch the penguins - warm socks in the rubber boots are a must.
• Pull the Rain pants over the rubber boots, so no water can run into the boots.
• Don't forget your gloves

What am I taking?

• Take sunglasses with you and apply sunscreen beforehand.
• Don't forget the camera. Is the battery charged? If necessary, take a spare battery with you. Is there enough space on the memory card?
• A bottle of drinking water is allowed. Biscuits, chocolate bars or other food must not be taken along.

How do I behave?

• Don't forget to check out and check in on board.
• Run in the footsteps of the others and do not leave deep kicks that can become traps for the penguins. If you have sunk deeper, pour in the footprints or kick the edges lower.
• There are a number of rules for encountering penguins. You can read them here .
• Wherever you run, keep in mind that you will need to clean and disinfect your shoes and clothes when you return aboard. This is necessary to minimize the exchange of pathogens between colonies.
• One last tip: Don't drink too much beforehand. The only way to make shore leave easier is to return to the ship's toilet . We offered a shuttle, but it's a shame about the lost time on land.

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Packing list for the Antarctic trip

I pack my suitcase and take with me....

I have not written down a complete packing list here. Instead, I limit myself to a few essential things that are either absolutely essential or are often forgotten.

• Take clothes for all four seasons with you and dress according to the proven onion layer principle. In case of need you can buy missing equipment in the mostly available shop on board. However, these are usually very expensive. In the sun it can get very warm in wind-protected areas.
• Glacier goggles with side wind protection
• Sun cream and lip protection
• Two pairs of gloves, so one can always dry
• Extra thick socks for the rubber boots
• Swimsuits for jumping into ice water
• Be prepared for the Drake Passage to become uncomfortable. Tablets or plasters against seasickness, which must be taken in good time before, have proved their worth. The Kaudragees are in my opinion too weakly dosed. The ship's doctor will help out if necessary.
• There is no dress code on the expedition cruises. You also don't have to dress up for Christmas and New Year's Eve. But you can. I was very happy about a pair of tights, a black skirt with a black T-shirt and light sneakers, because there was a lot of dancing.
• Many ships have a sports room, so pack sports things . The trips are mostly very motionless and full of food, so a small workout is really good.

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Tips for photographers

In the following I have compiled my best tips for photographing in Antarctica. On the one hand they are important additions for your packing list, on the other hand some helpful tips for travelling. But the most important thing first: Even if it's hard, let the camera be a camera and just enjoy what nature has to offer.

General information:

• If you have, take a spare camera with you. It would be too bad if the camera fails here and you can't take any more pictures.
• Another advantage of two cameras is that you can mount a lens with a different focal length on each camera. Especially in wet weather it is hardly possible to change the lenses.
• At the customs declaration at the entry to Argentina and Chile states that one camera and one device for video recording is allowed per person. I had more: a SLR, a compact camera and a GoPro. My camera backpack was X-rayed several times, but I didn't get any problems. I think there is more search for fruit and other food at the border.
• Clean camera and lenses carefully after use so that no salt water leaves traces.
• Watch for condensation when you come back from the cold to the warm.
• Keep your camera handy even on the Zodiac. Whales can suddenly appear next to the boat.
• Shoot in RAW or RAW+JPEG format. This way you can correct the exposure or white balance later if necessary.

Accessories:

• The most important thing is the rain cover for the camera. Especially against splashing water and entering waves during the Zodiac rides.
• Replacement batteries, because the batteries don't last that long in the cold.
• About twice as many memory cards as originally planned. Possibly an external hard disk to back up. There are often computers on board that you can use.
• The best thing, of course, is to bring your own laptop with the appropriate image editing software.
• Cleaning cloths
• tripod
• binoculars
• Possibly a UV filter to protect the objective lens.
• Polarization filterto reduce water reflections. So you can take some pictures of the icebergs in the water.

Have a look at my tips for great penguin photos.

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Travel literature

For the long flight as well as for free times on the ship there is of course hardly anything more beautiful, than the suitable book to the journey. Be it a thrilling report about the expeditions of Amundsen, Scott or Shakleton or a book about the adventures of courageous sailors who want to spend the winter on their sailing boat in Antarctica and everything comes differently than planned. For those interested in nature there are informative travel guides and the hobby ornithologist can prepare for the encounters with various seabirds with the help of identification books.

Here you can find my favourite books of polar literature - Arctic and Antarctica.

Book Recommendations for Antarctica

Do you want to know where the journey is going? Then I can recommend this travel books* to you.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. This does not make the product more expensive for you.

Have you ever been to Antarctica in a ship yourself? How did you like it and what were your highlights? Do you have any questions about my article or any other tips for a trip to Antarctica? If so, please write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Recommendations for further Reading

The King Penguins of Tierra del Fuego

Tips and Highlights in Ushuaia and Surroundings

Der Beitrag Antarktis – die besten Tipps für die Reise erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Here you can find an overview of all reports from my Antarctic trip.

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links.

Here you can read more about my Antarctic trip.

Wet Landing with the Zodiac

The night before was windy and big waves built up. The MS-Expedition is struggling to find a suitable anchorage. The entry into the Zodiac is difficult due to the waves. The gangway is flooded again and again, sometimes the stairs have six steps, sometimes only two. The jump into the Zodiac must therefore be precisely timed. As soon as there are ten passengers on board, we head towards Brown Bluff. Also here the waves are big and break at the pebble beach where we want to land. Our skipper observes the rhythm of the waves and adjusts a more calm phase exactly. Now he turns the Zodiac, folds up the outboard engine and drifts backwards to the beach. Here we are received by eight helping hands and reach the shore a little wet and shaken. The group of Adelie penguins watched us curiously and seemed to enjoy our landing.

The Table Volcano Brown Bluff

Brown Bluff - translated brown cliff - is a table volcano about one million years old and 745 meters high. Brown Bluff has its name because of its brown slopes, which are mostly ice-free and reddish brown in colour on the north flank towards the sea. It lies at the northern tip of the Antarctic Peninsula on the east coast of the Tabarin Peninsula on the Antarctic Sound.

The cliff of Brown Bluff consists of tuff rock, i.e. solidified volcanic ash. Horizontal bands show several different eruptions. The relatively soft tuff was later covered with lava and thus protected from erosion. If you take a closer look at the boulders on the beach, you can discover interesting structures in the tuff.

The volcanic eruptions and the lava flow once took place under the glacier. Therefore the table volcano has its typical shape: The plateau and the steep flanks. At the north flank of the lake, a scree slope stretches up from the beach and ends in the vertically towering steep cliff at a height of approximately 500 metres. The cliff keeps the glacier away from the beach and the north-facing slopes are snow-free early in the year. An ideal breeding place for thousands of birds and penguins and the reason for the rich fauna of Brown Bluff. The beach and the snow-free part of the cliff are therefore designated Important Bird Area by BirdLife International.

On Brown Bluff there is a colony of Adelie penguins with about 20,000 breeding pairs and a colony of gentoo penguins with about 550 breeding pairs. Dominican Gulls, Cape Petrels, Snow Petrels and Gulls of Prey also breed here. Weddell seals are regularly observed on the beach and sea leopards hunt in the waters off the coast. One of our Zodiac groups even observed a sea leopard catching a penguin from the surface of the water while driving in front of Brown Bluff.

Penguin Party at Brown Bluff

Why do I love Brown Bluff so much? Clearly because of the countless penguins. They are everywhere. Penguins as far as the eye can see. The colony of penguins stretches along the whole visible shore of Brown Bluff. In addition, the Adelie penguins are particularly active and curious. It is a real pleasure to observe the animals walking up and down in groups along the waterline. They are looking for a good place to get into the water between ice and waves. A brave person then dares to go ahead and the group follows. When they come out of the water again, the penguins are sometimes thrown onto the beach by the waves. Then the plumage is put in order before it goes back to the nest, where the partner waits with the offspring.

Most Adelie penguins have two chicks. With their fluffy brown plumage they seem somehow too big. Her body has a funny pear shape, which makes her look extremely clumsy. Even the donkey penguins, which breed somewhat apart from the Adelie penguins, usually have two chicks. One even had triplets and had to stuff three hungry mouths.

These encounters with the penguins make my heart jump with joy. I tried to capture the uniqueness of the penguins in my pictures. But no matter how hard I try. Something magical remained in these animal encounters, which I simply could not depict.

In order not to disturb the penguins, a minimum distance of five meters must always be kept. On the pebbly beach, the route marked out with flags by the guides is also to be used. But if you sit on the beach at Brown Bluff, some penguins will get very close to you. The perfect moment for close-ups of the penguins.

You want more penguins? Then you're probably interested in my article about the Penguins of Tierra del Fuego and my Tips for great Penguin Photos.

Book Recommendations for Antarctica

Do you want to know where the journey is going? Then I can recommend this travel books* to you.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. This does not make the product more expensive for you.

Have you ever been to Antarctica in a ship yourself? How did you like it and what were your highlights? Do you have any questions about my article or any other tips for a trip to Antarctica? If so, please write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

Der Beitrag Brown Bluff – Pinguin Party am Tafelvulkan erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

Table of Contents and Quick Navigation

Port Lockroy - Antarctic natural Harbour
The Bransfield House
Excursus: Historical Sites of Antarctica
Most southern Museum in the World
Most southern Post Office in the World
The most beautiful Souvenir from Antarctica
The Penguins of Port Lockroy

Unassigned, unpaid advertising. The article contains affiliate links.

Here you can find an overview of all reports from my Antarctic trip.

Port Lockroy - Antarctic natural Harbour

The Port Lockroy natural harbour is a bay on the west side of Wiencke Island and thus part of the Palmer Archipelago. The bay opens towards the west to the Neumayer Canal. In the other directions the bay is protected by glacier fields and a rocky headland. The water at Port Lockroy is deep enough for smaller cruise ships to enter and anchor.  

The bay was discovered in 1904 during the fourth French Antarctic expedition (1903-1905) led by Jean-Baptiste Charcot. The natural harbour is named after the French naval minister Édouard Lockroy (1840-1913), because Lockroy supported the expedition financially. Initially, the port was used for whaling and seal fishing, even factory ships moored here. During the Second World War, Port Lockroy was a British military base and the base of Operation Tabarin.

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The Bransfield House

In 1944, the British built their first permanent research station "Base A", also called Bransfield House, on the neighbouring Goudier Island. In the following years, botanical investigations, weather observations, geological and topographic mapping as well as atmospheric research were carried out here. Until 1958 Base A was extended by extensions and an additional generator shed. In 1962, however, the station was abandoned again.

The remains of Base A were declared a Historical Site 'HSM-61' under the Antarctic Treaty in 1995. The reason for its historical importance is its use as a base for Operation Tabarin in 1944 and its scientific research. For example, the first measurements of the ionosphere were carried out here and the first image of an atmospheric whistle was taken. Port Lockroy was also an important station of the International Geophysical Year 1957/1958.

In 1996, the former Base A was renovated and restored to its original condition in 1962. Since then, the Bransfield House has been used as a museum, post office and souvenir shop.

Port Lockroy has become one of the most popular attractions and one of the most visited places in Antarctica. To protect the site and the penguins that live there, tourism in Port Lockroy is limited: A maximum of three cruise ships with a maximum of 500 passengers each are allowed to anchor here every day. In addition, only 60 people are allowed to be on shore at any one time.

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Excursus: Historical Sites in the Antarctic Treaty

A historical site or monument is a protected place of historical interest in the Antarctic. These include for example huts, stone hills, memorial plaques or graves. The list of historical sites was first drawn up in 1972 and has since been expanded to 85. Objects must meet one or more of the following criteria in order to be included in the list:

• A special historical event has taken place at this site.
• The site is associated with an important personality in Antarctic history.
• The site is linked to an important masterpiece of "perseverance or success".
• It represents a larger activity "important for the development and knowledge of Antarctica".
• The building itself is of technical, historical, cultural or architectural importance.
• The site has educational potential about "significant human activities" in Antarctica.
• It has symbolic value for the people of many nations.

Other historical sites under the Antarctic Treaty are the ruins of the former whale processing station and the remains of the British research station at Whaler's Bay on Deception Island. Learn more about this place in my article Deception Island - Lost Place in Antarctica.

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Most southern Museum in the World

The former British research station in Port Lockroy has housed the southernmost museum in the world since 1996. The Bransfield House, the main base building built in 1944, was lovingly restored for this purpose. The refurbished rooms include the workshop, kitchen, bedroom, lounge, radio room, laboratory and hallway. With numerous exhibits and display boards, the museum shows life in the scientific base in the 1960s. It becomes particularly interesting in the kitchen, where an open recipe book reveals what was sometimes served: omelette from the seal's brain.

Next to the museum rooms there is a small souvenir shop with a surprisingly wide selection for the size of the shop. The income from the shop finances the preservation of the museum and other historical sites in Antarctica.

By the way: If you want to buy a souvenir of Port Lockroy afterwards, then have a look at the Shop of the United Kingdom Antarctic Heritage Trust.

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Most southern Post Office in the World

The southernmost post office in the world is attached to the museum and is operated by the United Kingdom Antarctic Heritage Trust (UKAHT) . Here you can have your postcards stamped with the special Port Lockroy postmarks and drop them directly into the red mailbox at Bransfield House. The postcards will be transported by the next ship to the Falkland Islands. From there the flight continues to London. The postcards are then transported from London to their destination.

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The most beautiful Souvenir from Antarctica

Who ever got a postcard from Antarctica?
Have you ever written a postcard to yourself?

No? Then put it on the pen! Because it's a great pleasure when a postcard with the special Port Lockroy postmark arrives at home about two months after your Antarctic trip. The postcard is my most beautiful souvenir from Antarctica. And a great addition to the fridge magnet and the T-shirt, which I also bought in the shop.

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The Penguins of Port Lockroy

A colony of gentoo penguins has lived on Goudier Island since about 1985. The colony is the focus of a research project that has been monitoring the breeding habits of the population and the effects of tourism since 1996. The colony was divided into two areas: One with and one without visitors.

It turned out that the breeding success is about the same in both colonies. The penguins are probably getting used to humans. In addition, visitors also expel predatory skuas who are targeting the chicks and eggs of the penguins. It is also assumed that snow conditions and food availability are the most important factors for breeding success.

Book Recommendations for Antarctica

Do you want to know where the journey is going? Then I can recommend this travel books* to you.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. This does not make the product more expensive for you.

Have you ever been to Antarctica in a ship yourself? How did you like it and what were your highlights? Do you have any questions about my article or any other tips for a trip to Antarctica? If so, please write me a comment!

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Der Beitrag Port Lockroy – südlichstes Museum und Poststation der Welt erschien zuerst auf Fernweh-Motive.

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Here you can find an overview of all reports from my Antarctic trip.

Whales and icebergs in the Neumayer Channel

With all these whales, I can't remember where to look first. There are seven whales at the same time. Three diagonally in front of us, two on our right and two further away. As I watch the whales, we drive past beautiful, dazzling icebergs. In different sizes and shapes they float in the water. Where the icebergs dip into the water, they are bright blue. Sometimes a seal rests on an ice floe or penguins prepare to jump into the cold water. It is lunchtime. I manage to tear myself away from the wonder world and get some leftovers from the buffet for a quick lunch. Then I go outside again, to the whales and icebergs in the dream landscape of the Neumayer Channel.

Excursus: The colours of the icebergs
Iceberg are mostly white. Sometimes they are bright blue. The white colour results from the scattering of the light at the air bubbles trapped in the ice. If fewer air bubbles are trapped, the ice appears clearer. As a rule, older ice or ice under high pressure has fewer air bubbles. The clear ice then acts like a colour filter - similar to water itself. This is called selective absorption. This means that first red, then orange, then yellow and then green light are absorbed by the ice one after the other. Blue light is absorbed last, so the ice shimmers blue.

The Neumayer Channel and Gerlachestraße

The Neumayer Channel is a narrow sea road in the Palmer Archipelago and separates the Anvers Island from the Wiencke Island. It is about 30 kilometres long and between two and four kilometres wide.

The Neumayer Canal was first sighted by the German captain Dallmann during the hunting season of 1873/74, when he searched for new sealing grounds. With his agile steamboat he could also penetrate into the narrow canal. The Belgian polar explorer Adrien de Gerlache de Gomery later named the channel after the German geophysicist Georg von Neumayer (1826-1909). Neumayer dedicated his life to polar research. In recognition of his commitment to Antarctic research, the Alfred Wegener Institute (AWI) later decided to name the German research station in the Antarctic after him. Find out more about the Neumayer III Research Station here.

To the north, the Neumayer Canal opens into the wider Gerlachestraße, which separates the Palmer Archipelago from the Danco coast of the Antarctic Peninsula. This waterway is named after the Belgian polar explorer Adrien de Gerlache de Gomery (1866-1934). Gerlache explored this area during the Belgica expedition (1897-1899). Among others, the Norwegian Roald Amundsen and the American Frederick Cook were present at that time. Both were still unknown at that time, but later they were to have a decisive influence on polar research. The ship, the "Belgica", was later taken over by Sir Ernest Shakleton and renamed "Endurence". Sir Ernest Shakleton and his crew wrote the most fascinating polar adventure of all time with the expedition of the "Endurence", its downfall and the subsequent rescue operation.

It's an exciting feeling to drive where the polar explorers filled the white areas of the maps with life. The circumstances under which these expeditions took place are hardly imaginable today. And that makes them even more fascinating. Do you want to know more about polar research at that time? Then here's to my favourite books of polar literature.

Book Recommendations for Antarctica

Do you want to know where the journey is going? Then I can recommend this travel books* to you.

You can order the travel guides on Amazon by clicking on the pictures. If you buy a product via an affiliate link, I get a small commission and you help me to keep filling Fernweh-Motive with interesting articles. This does not make the product more expensive for you.

Have you ever been to Antarctica in a ship yourself? How did you like it and what were your highlights? Do you have any questions about my article or any other tips for a trip to Antarctica? If so, please write me a comment!

Do you want to know when there are new articles on my blog? Then follow me on Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram. I would also be very happy if you share my article with your friends.

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